I have an M1009 {Blazer CUCV) that's being a royal PITA. I have to remove the injector pump DB2. Thanks for the lesson on its removal. You had a job on your hands to say the least. Humvees are a bear to maintain. Thanks again, Regards Bert from "Bama."
Love your videos! It's nice to see anothers perspective on how to go about things!! I'm replacing cylinder heads this week!! Yea!!! I've been chasing a tick, eventually i replaced the lifters on the 2-8 bank. but the #8 cylinder was leaking out the intake port......Thats enough for me! New heads ordered!!!!!!!
@@midnightmachineshop it didn't....I sum up so you can be aware of some hackery....tick turned into a knock after about 40 min of run time. Order reman engine, could find no reason for issue untill I removed the oil filter adapter. inside i found a blue rubber plug shaped like the buisness end of a tube of caulk. So when oil pressure rose ( velocity through the filter) it was pushed into the return hole of the block, starving the system for oil.....The top theory is that one of the mechanics in the field was working on the motor in that area and stuck that plug in to keep the sand out, then either forgot about it, or didn't tell the next crew....The engine internals are like new except for #8 rod bearing ( last to get oil) so I kept the core and will rebuild the original motor this summer...!
Can you give me a list of tools and sizes to complete this job? I am getting ready to take on this exact job and I would like to avoid any stopping points due to not having specific tools.
- 5/8” Fuel Line Socket (Injection Lines to Injection Pump) from Black Dog Customs. Some sellers list it as 16mm. - 5/8” and 3/4" Crowsfoot wrench (3/8 drive) for fuel injection lines - 19mm Fuel Line Socket (Injection Lines to Fuel Injectors) J48770 equivalent - 5/8” and 3/4" Flare nut wrenches -12-point metric combination (box and open end) wrench set. The 3 nuts holding the pump to the timing housing are 15mm 12-point) Only the nut on the LH side can be reached with a 15mm 12-point socket and a universal joint after the injection lines have been removed but it is still a tight fit. It came in useful when putting the throttle return spring bracket into place. - Metric shallow and deep socket set (Intake manifold and other various bolts) - Torque Wrench (3/8 drive) - 30mm Fuel Injector Socket (Snap-On S6128) - If you are going to replace the injectors too. Reassembly is in this video: ua-cam.com/video/1s7No7MlXJM/v-deo.html Hope this helps and I hope your repair goes well.
The instructions for replacing the engine are in TM 9-2320-280-34, Section 3-21. I do know that there's a specialized adapter for the engine hoist to make the job easier but I have seen lots of videos where people pull the engine without it.
Excellent. I really appreciate the editing and dedication to the instructional aspect of this video. I have to do this to my 2001 M1123. Step by step with this I feel pretty confident I can get it out. Do you have the followup install video? I know to do the steps in reverse but a followup video would provide more insight.
The 5/8" socket to remove the injector lines from the injection pump came from Black Dog Customs. The one for removing the injector lines from the fuel injectors is 19mm and came from Amazon. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Y69LCJC
I was too. Largest pipe wrench in my collection, grab the 'middle' flywheel between the actually grooved wheel and the block wheel. Once you are underneath you will understand. it takes approximately a complete revolution of that wheel to move each oiltube nut into view. motor turns clockwise so the bottom of the wheel, when you're underneath, will move towards the passenger side. moves pretty easily with a big enough pipe wrench
In the Engine Tech Manual, the entirety of injection pump timing is given in one line. TM 9-2815-237-34, pg 2-170 "4. Align timing marks (4) on injection pump (6) and timing gear cover (3)." However there is special test equipment that could determine the actual pump timing based on the pressure pulse going through the #1 injector line. The tool is J33127 - Tool Kit, Engine Timing Dynamic and is covered in TM 9-2320-387-24-2.
@@midnightmachineshop I seen that vid. I was under the impression you had to clock/time the pump to a cylinder like it only sprayed in one cylinder per revolution. Try finding Info that doesn't exist. Man that was frustrating.
Unfortunately I don't think there is an easier way. The HMMWV specific stuff is just the air intake tube and the power steering reservoir. The rest of the stuff in the way is due to the design of the GM 6.2 / 6.5 engine. Getting the individual injection lines loose from the injection pump without removing the intake manifold would be near impossible. Same goes for having to move the pump rearward to get it out of the timing cover as there isn't enough space with the intake manifold in place.
GREAT VIDEO. THANK YOU
I'm glad you liked it. Thanks for watching.
I have an M1009 {Blazer CUCV) that's being a royal PITA. I have to remove the injector pump DB2. Thanks for the lesson on its removal. You had a job on your hands to say the least. Humvees are a bear to maintain. Thanks again, Regards Bert from "Bama."
Good video....keep them coming.
I will. There's lots more to be done.
Great, im watching...so cant wait to see whats next.
nice work great commentary!
Love your videos! It's nice to see anothers perspective on how to go about things!! I'm replacing cylinder heads this week!! Yea!!!
I've been chasing a tick, eventually i replaced the lifters on the 2-8 bank.
but the #8 cylinder was leaking out the intake port......Thats enough for me! New heads ordered!!!!!!!
Hopefully that got things fixed for you. How did it work out?
@@midnightmachineshop it didn't....I sum up so you can be aware of some hackery....tick turned into a knock after about 40 min of run time. Order reman engine, could find no reason for issue untill I removed the oil filter adapter. inside i found a blue rubber plug shaped like the buisness end of a tube of caulk.
So when oil pressure rose ( velocity through the filter) it was pushed into the return hole of the block, starving the system for oil.....The top theory is that one of the mechanics in the field was working on the motor in that area and stuck that plug in to keep the sand out, then either forgot about it, or didn't tell the next crew....The engine internals are like new except for #8 rod bearing ( last to get oil) so I kept the core and will rebuild the original motor this summer...!
Can you give me a list of tools and sizes to complete this job? I am getting ready to take on this exact job and I would like to avoid any stopping points due to not having specific tools.
- 5/8” Fuel Line Socket (Injection Lines to Injection Pump) from Black Dog Customs. Some sellers list it as 16mm.
- 5/8” and 3/4" Crowsfoot wrench (3/8 drive) for fuel injection lines
- 19mm Fuel Line Socket (Injection Lines to Fuel Injectors) J48770 equivalent
- 5/8” and 3/4" Flare nut wrenches
-12-point metric combination (box and open end) wrench set. The 3 nuts holding the pump to the timing housing are 15mm 12-point) Only the nut on the LH side can be reached with a 15mm 12-point socket and a universal joint after the injection lines have been removed but it is still a tight fit. It came in useful when putting the throttle return spring bracket into place.
- Metric shallow and deep socket set (Intake manifold and other various bolts)
- Torque Wrench (3/8 drive)
- 30mm Fuel Injector Socket (Snap-On S6128) - If you are going to replace the injectors too.
Reassembly is in this video: ua-cam.com/video/1s7No7MlXJM/v-deo.html
Hope this helps and I hope your repair goes well.
Great job, thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching!
HOW HARD TO PULL ENGINE? LOVE YOUR VIDEOS
The instructions for replacing the engine are in TM 9-2320-280-34, Section 3-21. I do know that there's a specialized adapter for the engine hoist to make the job easier but I have seen lots of videos where people pull the engine without it.
Excellent. I really appreciate the editing and dedication to the instructional aspect of this video. I have to do this to my 2001 M1123. Step by step with this I feel pretty confident I can get it out. Do you have the followup install video? I know to do the steps in reverse but a followup video would provide more insight.
Here is the video of the reinstallation of the pump and the first startup of the truck. ua-cam.com/video/1s7No7MlXJM/v-deo.html
Any info you can share on the special wrench you used for the injector lines? I'm about to pull mine, figured I'd buy one as well.
The 5/8" socket to remove the injector lines from the injection pump came from Black Dog Customs. The one for removing the injector lines from the fuel injectors is 19mm and came from Amazon. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Y69LCJC
Wondering how you turned the engine by hand. I'm stuck at that step.
I was too. Largest pipe wrench in my collection, grab the 'middle' flywheel between the actually grooved wheel and the block wheel. Once you are underneath you will understand. it takes approximately a complete revolution of that wheel to move each oiltube nut into view. motor turns clockwise so the bottom of the wheel, when you're underneath, will move towards the passenger side. moves pretty easily with a big enough pipe wrench
@@GeorgeDavis-vf8dw yup, I mentioned it on his next video. Now I'm trying to find out how to time the dang injector pump
In the Engine Tech Manual, the entirety of injection pump timing is given in one line.
TM 9-2815-237-34, pg 2-170
"4. Align timing marks (4) on injection pump (6) and timing gear cover (3)."
However there is special test equipment that could determine the actual pump timing based on the pressure pulse going through the #1 injector line. The tool is J33127 - Tool Kit, Engine Timing Dynamic and is covered in TM 9-2320-387-24-2.
@@midnightmachineshop I seen that vid. I was under the impression you had to clock/time the pump to a cylinder like it only sprayed in one cylinder per revolution. Try finding Info that doesn't exist. Man that was frustrating.
That's alot if strip.down to get to.a pump, is there no.easier way?
Unfortunately I don't think there is an easier way. The HMMWV specific stuff is just the air intake tube and the power steering reservoir. The rest of the stuff in the way is due to the design of the GM 6.2 / 6.5 engine. Getting the individual injection lines loose from the injection pump without removing the intake manifold would be near impossible. Same goes for having to move the pump rearward to get it out of the timing cover as there isn't enough space with the intake manifold in place.