As I understand, the BMS needs time to balance the cells; with cheaper batteries, it can take a long time. How and when is the balancing taking place if the charge is cut off?
That balance happens at cell voltages that are harmful. So I suggest you only do this periodically. In short put the BankManager in charge to voltage mode now and again. I'm soon to release a video on balancing new cheap batteries. Details will be there
You are right. Balancing needs to happen and it takes multiple charge and discharge cycles if the BMS uses passive (wasteful) balancing and the cells are significantly out of balance. The good news is that after the cells become balanced, it takes unusual usage habits to bring them very far out of balance again. If you use your power daily and you charge daily, you are likely to keep a decent balance. The usual cause of losing balance is the repeated use of power without fully recharging between. A good BMS will be balancing your cells when some or all are between 3.35 and 3.65 volts per cell. I haven't taken any interest in bottom balancing and neither will your BMS. There is a very large percentage of the battery's SOC when the cells will be around 3.2 volts. During this time it isn't possible to accurately balance the cells unless each cell is measured independently and that would be prohibitively expensive and add bulk. If you're one of the people who think it's wise to use a smaller percentage of your battery's capacity, I'd recommend that you allow your batteries to be fully charged at least once per week to allow its BMS to do its job. I'm well aware that people will tell you that you're reducing the charging cycles. Before you buy into the drama, consider making a spreadsheet to determine whether that's even going to matter to you based on your usage, your expected remaining years of living with your battery bank, and the amount of loss you will actually take in terms of kWh. Many arguments are one sided because the supporters of an idea will not see it from the other side(s). One thing is certain. You can't expect your cells to balance if you set your max voltage too low and leave it there. They will get so far out of balance that you'll lose more capacity than you calculated for and possibly harm your cells.
so basically the power supply IS functioning as the Pb battery, in how you wired this up? Did you program the BMplus to not feed any power back to the Pb bank... ( power supply in this scenario) in case say the power goes off, or one turned off power supply prior to disconnecting the wires to the liPo getting charged etc.. Would think one would not want juice getting sent to the power supply which (I think??) the BMPlus would see as "Low juice in the Pb.... time to fill it back up from the LiPo bank"... or did you avoid that scenario by not wiring in that "fill back up" circuit" in how you wired this up for charging LiPo only? just trying to break this down for my brain... my few brain cells work best when looking at things conceptually. Thanks.
The power supply won't suffer from being connected to the battery when off. So no need to worry I honestly can't think of any type of common power supply that would suffer. Maybe a motor/generator but no one has used one of these this century.
I hope you tell that to all of your sources and that you have many. It's easy to miss whatever your ultimate source is missing. Besides the tendency of every human to make mistakes, none of these guys has enough time to share all that they know and many know things that are untrue or of little use. Another simple fact is that some of these guys are just repeating what another has said. Use your best judgement to determine who among them are parrots. I think Will Prowse and Clark are knowledgeable. I've also seen them disagree. I think David Poz is a bit of a parrot but he does have some useful videos about water heating. There are many CCs with content that seems unique to their channels. It's the unique stuff that brings the most value to the channel. Being a skeptic and a critical thinker will serve you well when considering letting them influence your spending.
I love the videos and sharing of your knowledge. I have been watching your videos from the perspective of a homeowner figuring out what type of home backup power system I want to build. I am convinced you have made great strides in the proper charging of lifepo4 batteries. I wish the bank manager was easier to setup for use with lifepo4 only and more of an off the shelf charging solution for home/AC charging... which well, this video shows how to do, it's just a bit to take in, combined with the manual, i am confident I could wire this up and get it working just fine... for my use case it's just hard to swallow the price tag given it's not a simple plugin solution. Thanks again for sharing the knowledge and I'm still considering purchasing it lol.
Used without lead it's a bit of a manual operation. The lead is there to help your existing charge controllers from going crazy when the BankManager removes the li. In many applications the lead batteries can be really small. Check out my Duffy video. In that install we used less than 10ah of lead
You could think of it that way. .5C charges in 2 hours .25C charges in 4 hours But where the C rate is most useful to the engineer is to standardize the charging current between batteries of different sizes.
There is a guy on UA-cam that gets 100s of disposable vapes that people throw away and it repurposing them for ebikes and portable chargers. Pretty cool.
Clark, even though I do not have the knowledge to the degree that you do, I do have enough electrical and electronic knowledge to easily follow your videos. I am in the process of building a small solar system and have wondered about the charging of the LiFePO4 batteries and from what I understood there really isn't any systems out there that charge them properly. In my search, the UA-cam algorithm sent me to you. So thank you for what you are doing. In this video you seem to be talking about getting your charging source from lead batteries, and specifically in your case, on a boat. So now I need to know where I would connect the output from an MPPT charge controller from solar panels into the system. I'm kind of getting the impression that you are using a lead battery as sort of a buffer. So I am assuming I would need some sort of lead battery and would connect the output from the MPPT to the lead battery? Thnx again
Hi Roger, I suggest you visit MarineDCAC.com and look up the BankManager product there. I have over 700 of these operating in the field on boats, campers, and off-grid houses. The power can come from virtually any source and the lead is really only there to keep the current source charge controllers operating sanely once the BankManager disconnects the li bank. There are a bunch of videos on my channel and the install manual on this site should be helpful for you to understand what's going on. Clark
@@Clarks-Adventure thank you. I will check it out. I am in the process of going through and looking at many of your videos right now, very informative!
Hi Clark, nice video as usual. I've always wondered if the Bank Manager could be used without a Pb battery in the system. One caution. In your demo with the big battery charger, when the Contactor turns charging off, the big charger will be back-feeding your small power supply. Most power supplies are ok with this, but not all. They sometimes have warnings to never use them for battery charging because of this (also because of the lack of an effective current limiter). I had one fail rather spectacularly when I inadvertently turned it off with a battery connected; roasted LM723 Flambe. As a protection, there are "Ideal Diode" boards that are used for preventing back-feeding solar panels that work very well to prevent this. Very low forward voltage drop. I use one rated to 50 amps in my semi off-grid power system. Put that in front of the small power supply, and it should be protected.
I trust your judgment Clark 100%. Tell a little bit about your background Aunt. You teach us layman how to be able to sort of understand all this electricity stuff and I do appreciate it
Nope, not at all. And so many people think it does. The BMS shuts down just before the top cell goes so high it vents electrolyte. Loads of overcharge damage has already been done. 100 percent is before the hockey stick and you shouldn't repeatedly charge above 100.
Can an agm x2 94r battery be used in place of the "lead" battery as the useful buffer? My application is a ford transit 250 v6 van I want to add a large lithium battery behind te drivers seat X2 is under the drivers seat I saw your other video about alternators being harmed by lithium batteries alone. Will the x2 make the system safe or do i need to go back to lead? Or can i go lead to the x2 and then to the lithium, where i keep the x2 in the middle? Van has a 150 amp altenator oem Ford offers a 250 amp as well, which i can swap to Ford says that all aux devices should be grounded to van frame instead of neg battery terminals I have found aftermartket ones that produce 190 amp at idle and over 300 while driving I believe i would like tu buy one of your bank managers, but i need to buy all the other apropriate equipment also
AGM IS lead. Just pick one up, they are heavy. So you are good there. In fact I use AGM on my boat so this was developed with that. If your ford is like my ford f150 you will want your bankmanager lithium subsystem grounded to the battery terminals directly not frame grounded. This lets both batteries operate through the trucks shunt that controls alternator output. But loads will go to the frame. Don't put on an alternator that puts out more than .5C compared to the li bank size or it will charge the li too fast for its health. So if you want more alternator add more li to keep that maximum ratio.
@@Clarks-Adventure I appreciate the fast response So first, is it advantageous for me to mess with 48v lithium or just keep it simple and go with 12? I'm hooking up a powerbook laptop and a large printer and a couple cell phones as the hotspot for the laptop I've found a 12 to 24v dc adapter to charge the laptop via a usb-c The laptop is a ram and processor powerhouse, and uses a lot of juice I'm in debate what volt lithium large battery to go with I want as much storage as possible and am watching your balancing battery videos now So I don't mind buying the less expensive brand batteries Should I buy 0000 gauge wire to connect the 2 batteries (agm to the lithium)? And should I get thicker gauge wire from the alternator to the batteries? I don't mind using the OEM 150 amp alternator for a short time and see how inadequate it is... I just don't want to hurt the lithium battery in any way by doing so. I'm new to all of this, but I'm a very fast learner I'm like you to the Corvette community, I figure things out that some can't even understand at all, even after I explain it to them 100 times I was also thinking about getting a Honda eu2200itan to be a secondary source for charging the batteries. Realistically, I'll be driving the van short distances no matter what, each day to grab food etc. I plan to be on the laptop at least 8 or more hours per day and don't want to let my van just idle all the time
I suggest you stay with 12v I really can't do your design over UA-cam comments. I do have a Patreon tier called "Dream Believers" where we can talk on the phone and go through your design in detail if you want that kind of support.
@@Clarks-Adventure there is a thread called "I tried to upgrade my 150A alternator to 250A ..." Search it on Google It has me spooked to touch my alternator just yet I plan to do the Honda eu2200itan first and also use grid 120v to charge the batteries And then address the alternator later if it makes sense
No sorry. But I think you could do that with a low voltage detection circuit and turn off the generator with a second small bi-stable contactor in the BankManager
Sure. Gen1 and Gen2 are almost the same thing electrically. You just have to short the contactor bolts so both sides have the same voltage to start the process.
Same thing but you need a power supply that goes up to 58v or so. I just ordered one. If I like it I'll use it in a video describing what you should do to brand new batteries when you open the box to balance their cells.
I watched that Gone with the Wynnes youtube show today. They are off the cat while it is gone over completely to correct some stray voltage coming out of the engines issues. The stray voltage issue was serious. Pitting in steal. The brand newish anchor and chains have to be replaced. Maybe every nut and bolt on the brand new boat will have to be replaced.
If my motorhome house batteries are 24 or 48 volt lithium and chassis batteries lead acid 12 volt, will your bank manager work? If not, can you design one that will work. Thanks
You'd need a Dc-Dc charger to step up the voltage. That charger might have a setting labeled li but it won't charge your Li batteries correctly. That's where the BankManager comes in. Same for your shore power charger
Any chance of adding a capacity testing feature to the next version? Like you could charge up the lithium, put it in the test mode and then use your loads until the lithium is empty? Or would that mean you'd also have to drain the lead pretty low to get the lithium at 0%?
I see what you are getting at. If you just really wanted to run the test I think you could set the battery size higher like an extra 20 percent ah Turn off the minimum POC setting Charge to 100 percent. Turn off all your charge sources. When the contactor is connected remove the lead. Discharge normally until you Li shuts down Watch the POC number near the end because you are going to lose the data when the battery shuts down. Then do some math For example if you did this to a 100ah battery and you set the BankManager to 120ah, if you got a POC reading of 87 percent just before shut down your capacity would be 104ah . Real capacity = 120 * .87 Real capacity = 104 ah Or if the last reading was 75 percent the real capacity would be 120 * .75 or 90ah Just off the top of my head but I think it would work and you don't waste power. But you need to watch the end of the test like a hawk.
@@Clarks-Adventure Just making sure I was following the math correctly. That's my wishlist feature for the next version, some way to make measuring capacity easier. Maybe store store the Watt-hours of the last few charge/discharge cycles in non-volotile memory?
I like your videos but I agree with one of your other comments your prices are way too high I'll have to figure out a lot more cost-effective way to charge my battery
Set up an account with Reship.com or some other courier. They will give you a US address and handle your import Then order one from marinedcac.com/pages/bankmanager
marinedcac.com/pages/bankmanager It is a charge controller for LiFePO4 that works with any charge sources you already have and lets you mix lead batteries with li
he selling s basic RV seperation relay with a remote switch this stuff you get on amazon for ~30$ you pay additional 400 $ for a display on this sort of relay thats all....he call this basic relay bank manager and very super duper... pure nonsens...
@ThomasNowicki-m5s. wow. You really didn't look into this did you. It's amazing how some people insist on showing how little they know publicly. Happy trolling.
I have a new challenge for you. For decades, people have been over-paneling their charge controllers to eek out additional wattage during the early and late hours of the day. There's a better way to get more out of your solar panels but the industry is missing the electronic brain for the solution. It involves adding another charge controller but there's a problem with that idea. They draw power even when they aren't charging. I was thinking that there should be a way to open the solar array and charge controller-to-battery circuits of the secondary array(s) using a solid state voltage differential switch with signals sent at the moment that charging stops on the primary system so that the secondaries stop draining the batteries and are protected from array voltage until the signal is sent to close the connection to the batteries the next morning. Is this something you'd care to tackle?
Doing that loses the mppt per panel array. That is why having a controller per small array is better than just one. Your approach really rolls the clock back to 1990s level regulation.
@@Clarks-Adventure Either you don't understand what I was talking about or you don't understand solar power to the extent that I do. A more unfortunate possibility is that you do understand solar as thoroughly as I do and you understand the intention of my idea but you lack the electronics engineering skills that you would have had to have to come up with the BBMS, if it even does what you claim to the extent that you claim that it does. I think it's just an adjustable voltage sensing relay in a fancy box after all that you have said to date.
Im not a troll! I like your video's and like watching them. And im no electrical boater.. but my feed back on your battery monitors as an Australian consumer is firstly, they are way too expensive. Secondly, they are messy. You need three components and then lots of wires running between then. Just not something that encourages me to expend exrra dollars to have. Like i said, im not a troll, this is my feed back.
I'd like to lower the price but making them in small batches costs a lot. The plastic case alone costs 40 USD I'm thinking about getting these assembled in various places around the world by guys who will handle suppose and marketing so the production numbers can go up. I just got the CE certification together. I was waiting for that. I have purposely not done any advertising outside this channel so I could keep up and stay mostly retired.
the tilte is great, build your own LFP charger in buy a 500$ charger... so what is the build in buy junk? and confusing talk about your complex algorythms ...ther is nothing like that. LFP chargerd with a current = ampere to a voltage = full no confunsinfg talk about algorythms needet to sound important. LFP charge is the esyest task in ptaktice for anyone cost the is no knowlege needet thats the truth. ea LFP for consumers have a build in BMS and the BMS hanlde the right voltage up to full state by themsels so put any sort of chagrer or power supply with a voltage and the BMS build in in any LFP stop charge itif the battery is full thats the reallyty. and try to make promotion for a 500$ charge booster will not makes it bettter in any chase then any sort of random charger. then set a power suply befor another power supply " what your magic box is" and call that magic algorythms not change anythin on this fact. and mister youtube the litime 140 ah battery have exactlyx this outstanding BMS tech build in for user like you , do random nonsens with 2 power supply set befor a lLFP +conspirecy theories and magic algorythms but its not possible to charge this litime wrong....dont wory if you put 10 power supply in a line still no way to xharge this litime wrong.....
I'm not sure what you are saying exactly. I assume English isn't your first language or you just don't care what you type. I have viewers who bought the early BankManagers and upgraded. Their old BankManager will likely be used for this kind of project. And you, like many, are completely misinformed about what a BMS does. Finally the BMS in that litime is so bad I'm removing it and putting a jk bms in that case.
How are academic papers hard to find on the most popular subject that is charging batteries? Google scholar? Feels like you are claiming you are the only one with access to the secrets of charging batteries. Would mind sharing the sources and links :-) plus.. conspiracy theories that all manufacturers of batteries are wrong and trying you to kill your battery so you buy another one
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
PERFECT vid at a perfect time. I was wondering what I was going to do with my 1st Gen. Bank Manager. Thanks!
As I understand, the BMS needs time to balance the cells; with cheaper batteries, it can take a long time. How and when is the balancing taking place if the charge is cut off?
That balance happens at cell voltages that are harmful.
So I suggest you only do this periodically. In short put the BankManager in charge to voltage mode now and again.
I'm soon to release a video on balancing new cheap batteries. Details will be there
You are right. Balancing needs to happen and it takes multiple charge and discharge cycles if the BMS uses passive (wasteful) balancing and the cells are significantly out of balance. The good news is that after the cells become balanced, it takes unusual usage habits to bring them very far out of balance again. If you use your power daily and you charge daily, you are likely to keep a decent balance. The usual cause of losing balance is the repeated use of power without fully recharging between. A good BMS will be balancing your cells when some or all are between 3.35 and 3.65 volts per cell. I haven't taken any interest in bottom balancing and neither will your BMS. There is a very large percentage of the battery's SOC when the cells will be around 3.2 volts. During this time it isn't possible to accurately balance the cells unless each cell is measured independently and that would be prohibitively expensive and add bulk. If you're one of the people who think it's wise to use a smaller percentage of your battery's capacity, I'd recommend that you allow your batteries to be fully charged at least once per week to allow its BMS to do its job. I'm well aware that people will tell you that you're reducing the charging cycles. Before you buy into the drama, consider making a spreadsheet to determine whether that's even going to matter to you based on your usage, your expected remaining years of living with your battery bank, and the amount of loss you will actually take in terms of kWh. Many arguments are one sided because the supporters of an idea will not see it from the other side(s). One thing is certain. You can't expect your cells to balance if you set your max voltage too low and leave it there. They will get so far out of balance that you'll lose more capacity than you calculated for and possibly harm your cells.
so basically the power supply IS functioning as the Pb battery, in how you wired this up? Did you program the BMplus to not feed any power back to the Pb bank... ( power supply in this scenario) in case say the power goes off, or one turned off power supply prior to disconnecting the wires to the liPo getting charged etc..
Would think one would not want juice getting sent to the power supply which (I think??) the BMPlus would see as "Low juice in the Pb.... time to fill it back up from the LiPo bank"... or did you avoid that scenario by not wiring in that "fill back up" circuit" in how you wired this up for charging LiPo only?
just trying to break this down for my brain... my few brain cells work best when looking at things conceptually.
Thanks.
The power supply won't suffer from being connected to the battery when off. So no need to worry
I honestly can't think of any type of common power supply that would suffer. Maybe a motor/generator but no one has used one of these this century.
Thanks Clark. You’re me ultimate source for lithium and battery charging technology
I hope you tell that to all of your sources and that you have many. It's easy to miss whatever your ultimate source is missing. Besides the tendency of every human to make mistakes, none of these guys has enough time to share all that they know and many know things that are untrue or of little use. Another simple fact is that some of these guys are just repeating what another has said. Use your best judgement to determine who among them are parrots. I think Will Prowse and Clark are knowledgeable. I've also seen them disagree. I think David Poz is a bit of a parrot but he does have some useful videos about water heating. There are many CCs with content that seems unique to their channels. It's the unique stuff that brings the most value to the channel. Being a skeptic and a critical thinker will serve you well when considering letting them influence your spending.
I love the videos and sharing of your knowledge. I have been watching your videos from the perspective of a homeowner figuring out what type of home backup power system I want to build. I am convinced you have made great strides in the proper charging of lifepo4 batteries. I wish the bank manager was easier to setup for use with lifepo4 only and more of an off the shelf charging solution for home/AC charging... which well, this video shows how to do, it's just a bit to take in, combined with the manual, i am confident I could wire this up and get it working just fine... for my use case it's just hard to swallow the price tag given it's not a simple plugin solution. Thanks again for sharing the knowledge and I'm still considering purchasing it lol.
Used without lead it's a bit of a manual operation.
The lead is there to help your existing charge controllers from going crazy when the BankManager removes the li.
In many applications the lead batteries can be really small.
Check out my Duffy video. In that install we used less than 10ah of lead
16:02 C = Ah/A-charge-rate? Wouldn't that be hours to charge from 0‐100% ?
You could think of it that way. .5C charges in 2 hours .25C charges in 4 hours
But where the C rate is most useful to the engineer is to standardize the charging current between batteries of different sizes.
There is a guy on UA-cam that gets 100s of disposable vapes that people throw away and it repurposing them for ebikes and portable chargers. Pretty cool.
Clark, even though I do not have the knowledge to the degree that you do, I do have enough electrical and electronic knowledge to easily follow your videos. I am in the process of building a small solar system and have wondered about the charging of the LiFePO4 batteries and from what I understood there really isn't any systems out there that charge them properly. In my search, the UA-cam algorithm sent me to you. So thank you for what you are doing. In this video you seem to be talking about getting your charging source from lead batteries, and specifically in your case, on a boat. So now I need to know where I would connect the output from an MPPT charge controller from solar panels into the system. I'm kind of getting the impression that you are using a lead battery as sort of a buffer. So I am assuming I would need some sort of lead battery and would connect the output from the MPPT to the lead battery?
Thnx again
Hi Roger,
I suggest you visit MarineDCAC.com and look up the BankManager product there. I have over 700 of these operating in the field on boats, campers, and off-grid houses. The power can come from virtually any source and the lead is really only there to keep the current source charge controllers operating sanely once the BankManager disconnects the li bank.
There are a bunch of videos on my channel and the install manual on this site should be helpful for you to understand what's going on.
Clark
@@Clarks-Adventure thank you. I will check it out. I am in the process of going through and looking at many of your videos right now, very informative!
Hi Clark, nice video as usual. I've always wondered if the Bank Manager could be used without a Pb battery in the system.
One caution. In your demo with the big battery charger, when the Contactor turns charging off, the big charger will be back-feeding your small power supply. Most power supplies are ok with this, but not all. They sometimes have warnings to never use them for battery charging because of this (also because of the lack of an effective current limiter). I had one fail rather spectacularly when I inadvertently turned it off with a battery connected; roasted LM723 Flambe.
As a protection, there are "Ideal Diode" boards that are used for preventing back-feeding solar panels that work very well to prevent this. Very low forward voltage drop. I use one rated to 50 amps in my semi off-grid power system. Put that in front of the small power supply, and it should be protected.
Good point
I've had no issues with this cheap Chinese supply
I trust your judgment Clark 100%. Tell a little bit about your background Aunt. You teach us layman how to be able to sort of understand all this electricity stuff and I do appreciate it
This is probably as good as anything
ua-cam.com/video/9XK5ocXPhTg/v-deo.html
To answer that.
I did some hardware defence contract still later
Should the BMS do the same thing 🤔 voltage into hockey stick= Mosfets prohibit charging?
Nope, not at all. And so many people think it does.
The BMS shuts down just before the top cell goes so high it vents electrolyte. Loads of overcharge damage has already been done.
100 percent is before the hockey stick and you shouldn't repeatedly charge above 100.
Can an agm x2 94r battery be used in place of the "lead" battery as the useful buffer?
My application is a ford transit 250 v6 van
I want to add a large lithium battery behind te drivers seat
X2 is under the drivers seat
I saw your other video about alternators being harmed by lithium batteries alone.
Will the x2 make the system safe or do i need to go back to lead?
Or can i go lead to the x2 and then to the lithium, where i keep the x2 in the middle?
Van has a 150 amp altenator oem
Ford offers a 250 amp as well, which i can swap to
Ford says that all aux devices should be grounded to van frame instead of neg battery terminals
I have found aftermartket ones that produce 190 amp at idle and over 300 while driving
I believe i would like tu buy one of your bank managers, but i need to buy all the other apropriate equipment also
AGM IS lead. Just pick one up, they are heavy. So you are good there.
In fact I use AGM on my boat so this was developed with that.
If your ford is like my ford f150 you will want your bankmanager lithium subsystem grounded to the battery terminals directly not frame grounded. This lets both batteries operate through the trucks shunt that controls alternator output.
But loads will go to the frame.
Don't put on an alternator that puts out more than .5C compared to the li bank size or it will charge the li too fast for its health. So if you want more alternator add more li to keep that maximum ratio.
@@Clarks-Adventure I appreciate the fast response
So first, is it advantageous for me to mess with 48v lithium or just keep it simple and go with 12?
I'm hooking up a powerbook laptop and a large printer and a couple cell phones as the hotspot for the laptop
I've found a 12 to 24v dc adapter to charge the laptop via a usb-c
The laptop is a ram and processor powerhouse, and uses a lot of juice
I'm in debate what volt lithium large battery to go with
I want as much storage as possible and am watching your balancing battery videos now
So I don't mind buying the less expensive brand batteries
Should I buy 0000 gauge wire to connect the 2 batteries (agm to the lithium)? And should I get thicker gauge wire from the alternator to the batteries?
I don't mind using the OEM 150 amp alternator for a short time and see how inadequate it is...
I just don't want to hurt the lithium battery in any way by doing so.
I'm new to all of this, but I'm a very fast learner
I'm like you to the Corvette community, I figure things out that some can't even understand at all, even after I explain it to them 100 times
I was also thinking about getting a Honda eu2200itan to be a secondary source for charging the batteries.
Realistically, I'll be driving the van short distances no matter what, each day to grab food etc.
I plan to be on the laptop at least 8 or more hours per day and don't want to let my van just idle all the time
I suggest you stay with 12v
I really can't do your design over UA-cam comments. I do have a Patreon tier called "Dream Believers" where we can talk on the phone and go through your design in detail if you want that kind of support.
@@Clarks-Adventure I appreciate you
I haven't used that site before but I see how it works basically
I will be in touch
My name is Brandon
@@Clarks-Adventure there is a thread called "I tried to upgrade my 150A alternator to 250A ..."
Search it on Google
It has me spooked to touch my alternator just yet
I plan to do the Honda eu2200itan first and also use grid 120v to charge the batteries
And then address the alternator later if it makes sense
Does the Bank Manager have a provision to start your on-board generator when it detects that the batteries need charging?
Best!
No sorry.
But I think you could do that with a low voltage detection circuit and turn off the generator with a second small bi-stable contactor in the BankManager
Is this possible with a gen one?
Sure.
Gen1 and Gen2 are almost the same thing electrically.
You just have to short the contactor bolts so both sides have the same voltage to start the process.
How can I use this for a 48v lifepo4 battery?
Same thing but you need a power supply that goes up to 58v or so.
I just ordered one. If I like it I'll use it in a video describing what you should do to brand new batteries when you open the box to balance their cells.
@Clarks-Adventure Thank you!
I watched that Gone with the Wynnes youtube show today. They are off the cat while it is gone over completely to correct some stray voltage coming out of the engines issues. The stray voltage issue was serious. Pitting in steal. The brand newish anchor and chains have to be replaced. Maybe every nut and bolt on the brand new boat will have to be replaced.
Bad news.
If my motorhome house batteries are 24 or 48 volt lithium and chassis batteries lead acid 12 volt, will your bank manager work? If not, can you design one that will work. Thanks
You'd need a Dc-Dc charger to step up the voltage. That charger might have a setting labeled li but it won't charge your Li batteries correctly. That's where the BankManager comes in.
Same for your shore power charger
Any chance of adding a capacity testing feature to the next version? Like you could charge up the lithium, put it in the test mode and then use your loads until the lithium is empty? Or would that mean you'd also have to drain the lead pretty low to get the lithium at 0%?
I see what you are getting at.
If you just really wanted to run the test I think you could set the battery size higher like an extra 20 percent ah
Turn off the minimum POC setting
Charge to 100 percent.
Turn off all your charge sources.
When the contactor is connected remove the lead.
Discharge normally until you Li shuts down
Watch the POC number near the end because you are going to lose the data when the battery shuts down.
Then do some math
For example if you did this to a 100ah battery and you set the BankManager to 120ah, if you got a POC reading of 87 percent just before shut down your capacity would be 104ah .
Real capacity = 120 * .87
Real capacity = 104 ah
Or if the last reading was 75 percent the real capacity would be 120 * .75 or 90ah
Just off the top of my head but I think it would work and you don't waste power. But you need to watch the end of the test like a hawk.
@@Clarks-AdventureWouldn't it show 13% POC right before shutting off in the first example?
@bhartley1024 woops yes
100 minus displayed POC.
I said it was off the top of my head, sorry
@@Clarks-Adventure Just making sure I was following the math correctly.
That's my wishlist feature for the next version, some way to make measuring capacity easier. Maybe store store the Watt-hours of the last few charge/discharge cycles in non-volotile memory?
@bhartley1024 it's hard because we don't usually discharge li fully
I'll keep it in mind
I like your videos but I agree with one of your other comments your prices are way too high I'll have to figure out a lot more cost-effective way to charge my battery
How do I get this bank manager in Asia.
Set up an account with Reship.com or some other courier. They will give you a US address and handle your import
Then order one from marinedcac.com/pages/bankmanager
Is this unit open source for any software or schematics? If not how do you build your own?
Nope.
I'm an engineer. I design and build things like this professionally.
Way too complex to use for most consumers. I’ve used the Victron algorithm for many years and it has served me well..
Hi Clark Great Video 👍 looks like the Bank Manager would be great to work with DC to DC Chargers ? 🤔 Best Wishes. Bob. 🤔🌟🌟🌟⛵️
It basically can take any power source and use it to properly charge LiFePO4
@Clarks-Adventure I guessed that was the Case Clark, bloody lovely to have it Confirmed. My very Best Wishes. Bob. 👍🌟🌟🌟⛵️
What is a bank manager?
marinedcac.com/pages/bankmanager
It is a charge controller for LiFePO4 that works with any charge sources you already have and lets you mix lead batteries with li
he selling s basic RV seperation relay with a remote switch this stuff you get on amazon for ~30$ you pay additional 400 $ for a display on this sort of relay thats all....he call this basic relay bank manager and very super duper...
pure nonsens...
@ThomasNowicki-m5s. wow. You really didn't look into this did you.
It's amazing how some people insist on showing how little they know publicly.
Happy trolling.
I have a new challenge for you. For decades, people have been over-paneling their charge controllers to eek out additional wattage during the early and late hours of the day. There's a better way to get more out of your solar panels but the industry is missing the electronic brain for the solution. It involves adding another charge controller but there's a problem with that idea. They draw power even when they aren't charging. I was thinking that there should be a way to open the solar array and charge controller-to-battery circuits of the secondary array(s) using a solid state voltage differential switch with signals sent at the moment that charging stops on the primary system so that the secondaries stop draining the batteries and are protected from array voltage until the signal is sent to close the connection to the batteries the next morning. Is this something you'd care to tackle?
Doing that loses the mppt per panel array. That is why having a controller per small array is better than just one.
Your approach really rolls the clock back to 1990s level regulation.
@@Clarks-Adventure Either you don't understand what I was talking about or you don't understand solar power to the extent that I do. A more unfortunate possibility is that you do understand solar as thoroughly as I do and you understand the intention of my idea but you lack the electronics engineering skills that you would have had to have to come up with the BBMS, if it even does what you claim to the extent that you claim that it does. I think it's just an adjustable voltage sensing relay in a fancy box after all that you have said to date.
My Bank Manager told me to stop watching UA-cam and pay my mortgage 🙂
😅
😎
It would be great if you sent our bank manager to Will Prowse for review
Suggest it to him
But Im not sure he would understand it.
@ I sent him your video 🙂
Thanks
😃👍👏👏👏
Im not a troll! I like your video's and like watching them. And im no electrical boater.. but my feed back on your battery monitors as an Australian consumer is firstly, they are way too expensive. Secondly, they are messy. You need three components and then lots of wires running between then. Just not something that encourages me to expend exrra dollars to have. Like i said, im not a troll, this is my feed back.
I'd like to lower the price but making them in small batches costs a lot. The plastic case alone costs 40 USD
I'm thinking about getting these assembled in various places around the world by guys who will handle suppose and marketing so the production numbers can go up.
I just got the CE certification together.
I was waiting for that. I have purposely not done any advertising outside this channel so I could keep up and stay mostly retired.
the tilte is great, build your own LFP charger in buy a 500$ charger...
so what is the build in buy junk?
and confusing talk about your complex algorythms ...ther is nothing like that.
LFP chargerd with a current = ampere to a voltage = full
no confunsinfg talk about algorythms needet to sound important.
LFP charge is the esyest task in ptaktice for anyone cost the is no knowlege needet thats the truth.
ea LFP for consumers have a build in BMS and the BMS hanlde the right voltage up to full state by themsels so put any sort of chagrer or power supply with a voltage and the BMS build in in any LFP stop charge itif the battery is full thats the reallyty.
and try to make promotion for a 500$ charge booster will not makes it bettter in any chase then any sort of random charger.
then set a power suply befor another power supply " what your magic box is" and call that magic algorythms not change anythin on this fact.
and mister youtube the litime 140 ah battery have exactlyx this outstanding BMS tech build in for user like you , do random nonsens with 2 power supply set befor a lLFP +conspirecy theories and magic algorythms but its not possible to charge this litime wrong....dont wory if you put 10 power supply in a line still no way to xharge this litime wrong.....
I'm not sure what you are saying exactly. I assume English isn't your first language or you just don't care what you type.
I have viewers who bought the early BankManagers and upgraded. Their old BankManager will likely be used for this kind of project.
And you, like many, are completely misinformed about what a BMS does.
Finally the BMS in that litime is so bad I'm removing it and putting a jk bms in that case.
How are academic papers hard to find on the most popular subject that is charging batteries? Google scholar? Feels like you are claiming you are the only one with access to the secrets of charging batteries. Would mind sharing the sources and links :-) plus.. conspiracy theories that all manufacturers of batteries are wrong and trying you to kill your battery so you buy another one