I have never attempted anything like fine soldering on a tightly packed component board. I got the mornsun module and following your excellent tutorial, I achieved chunkulation and the Tech2 works again!! Thank you a thousand times!
Mine has a burnt part on the board numbered c231 , I can't make out any way to I'd the part becuase it burnt, looks to be a black block with two terminal legs. Does anyone know what this part is?
Thanks for this! Very helpful. My AliExpress version just died the same death. Another option is buy the entire board with new heatsink for $95.00. Expect a two month lead time though.
Success! Thanks again. I removed the screen for easier soldering. Also went with your method of just attacking the heatsink and brute forcing the pins through. Agreed about power supply removal taking most of the time...
@@djfremen …. How did you remove the screen? Was it soldered or did it have a clip/plug? There one for sale with a new screen but everyone read said some are soldered and others just plug.
Your tech 2 clone looks way better than the one I got My screen has pinned connections Case is all rough, its like the assembler broke off plastic tabs in it too, Steel Card door. I have the same power module in mine but no heat sink is on it and it gets warm! I kinda wish someone would say who sells the higher quality tech 2 clones vs the low end ones which I mostly likely received. It does pass all the tests! Has Epson and Samsung chips if they are not fakes
Great video but I have to admit while I do a lot of things myself this scares me. Do you know of a repair shop I could send it to for reworking the soldering joints and replacement of the DC/DC 5VDC power converter?
Unlikely you would find a repair shop in general for this type of device. If you have an old school TV repair guy where you are, they might entertain doing it for you. It's just the experience and comfort with desoldering and soldering that is required, used to be pretty common skill in consumer electronics repair but now everything is throw away rather than fix. But a long established TV repair place should have those skills still.
Our tech 2 clone powers up fine but doesn't connect with any vehicle. When I try the self test procedure it does not detect that I have the VCI loopback adapter plugged, and fails all of the tests as if the adapter is not connected. I suspect that it may be the vci module. Do you have any advice on this?
There's no published schematics, so board level repairs are not really doable on the VCI module. They do sell replacement VCI modules on ebay and Aliexpress from time to time. Before going that route I'd check for oxidation on the contacts causing connectivity issues. If you're comfortable with electronics, I'd open it up and look for obvious issues like burnt components (tantalum caps are used on this board that can burn out) or corrosion that might be worth addressing before full replacement.
Thank you for your suggestions. We purchased the tech 2 six months ago, and had used it successfully three or four times. We opened the module and nothing appears burnt or corroded on the board. I'll try giving the contacts a good cleaning before deciding on a total replacement or purchase of another vci module. Thanks again.
Six months would be a very short lifespan for the VCI, even for a clone. You should be getting years of service out of one, unless you are using it in a shop setting. When you say _we_ purchased, I got the feeling you might be using it in a shop vs DIY. The component quality on these clones are great for DIY, or occasional pro use, but not for daily pro use.
Sadly no. The problem is that the isolated voltage DC-DC converter GM spec'd was custom, and could handle an input voltage drop as a low as 7VDC without shutting down output voltage. No part publicly available can handle less than ~9VDC without shutting off momentarily, due to the high cost to manufacture to such a spec as GM had. During an engine cranking event the vehicle battery power does drop below 9VDC or even 8VDC depending on the vehicle model and battery situation (there are some vehicles that this doesn't occur hence reports this fix "works" but it really doesn't in the broad sense). There are some projects out there to use an LM2596S converter device, but its quite involved to get the Tech2 power button to still work with it, and then its not isolated voltage anymore anyway which could introduce problems for some SPS calibration procedures. What I did is I made an adapter that sits between the vehicle plug and the Tech2 cable that removes the voltage pin to force external power to be used (gotta keep a commond vehicle ground though). In a pinch you could look for a fuse supplying the ODB power and pull it, some vehicles have this since its an external port.
@@DrShock can you do a short video about this? My friend has a couple of Chinese made tech 2's like mine and one of them doesn't reboot. And able to calibrate on the same vehicle.
Its random like I mentioned, some of the replacement DC-DC converters just by luck/chance happen to tolerate a bit lower input voltage before shutting down, so they survive the engine crank battery voltage drop. If you mean about making a video using the LM2596S approach? Yeah, I'll consider that may be awhile before I can get to it though.
@@DrShock This is taken from the Tech 2 user manual 2006 Vetronix... "If the DLC and external power source are both connected, the power jack connection supplies current to the Tech 2. In this instance, power from the vehicle's DLC connector is automatically disconnected from the Tech 2 internal power supply."
Yeah but they're asking about a clone tool here not the Vetronix original. The clones do not behave the same way as the Vetronix, they reboot when you start the engine because of the DC-DC converter differences. You could connect a separate power, but normally you're remote with the vehicle and no AC power making that impractical but sure that should work too.
Well there's no such thing as a _Tech 3_ out there. There's the Tech2, followed by the MDI, and the current GM tool is the MDI2. The clones of the Tech2 and MDI can be very good, but you have to get the more expensive ones to not have incompatibilities. I have videos on the right MDI. The clones of the MDI2 are very incompatible still, because all they are is the MDI board cut to fit inside a fake MDI2 case. They actually cannot do any of the new MDI2 protocols yet, but they are fine with Techline Connect as just an MDI 1.
Hello, please can you help my, in my original tech2 there are other pins used. Original there is a iws705cz ac/dc converter. I can fit the mornsun converter, but the pins are not on the same spot.
Yeah the original uses a different pinout on the PCB than the clones. And I believe the original uses 6 pins whereas the clones use 5 pins. There's no known datasheet for the Power-one converter so I can't help you with a pin out adapter, but these original converters do come up on eBay maybe once a year. Interestingly I only recall seeing someone fix a genuine Tech2 using the Traco Power 10-1211 DC-DC converter part, which has only 4 pins. Which ever way you go, the original will lose the ability to not restart during engine cranking (see my video description for details), and will likely lose the power on button function (something unique to the Power-one DC-DC converter it originally came with).
It's one possible cause, perhaps the most common on clone Tech2s. But not the only one. On originals this is a less common reason, but you come across it there too in forums from time to time.
i left mine plugged in to the car (everything was turned off) for like 30 mins while i went to get dinner and when i got back out my Tech2 just shows a blue screen and beeps 4 or 3 times then stays blue. Could this be the issue?
My TECH2 still powers up and works fine when getting power from the car, but when I use the power plug on the bottom of the TECH2 it sometimes will not power on. When it does it has pops and sparks coming from the power supply. Tried other power supplies, does the same thing. Seems like power is kicking back from the TECH2 (bad diode?). Can the DC to DC converter cause this as well. Device works fine otherwise.
Edward Shockley Yeah, I thought about it more and took the vci module out. Going to swap it out with a friends and see if that fixes it. Thanks for the reply.
Just an update. Replaced the dc-dc converter. All fixed. Ran self-test everything passed. Power from external power supply working fine now. Thanks for info from this video. Big help!!
Hi, great video! I have a question no one else has been able to answer about my Tech2 knock off that i bought for my Saab 9-5 2008. If anyone could give me some advice it must be you. It worked fine for over two years in my own 9-5 2007 and 2008 cars with the CANDi interface, but then i hooked it up to my friends 2006 Saab 9-3 that had some electrical problems with the generator etc. Big misstake! After that the Tech2 lights up and seems normal and passes all the test but does NOT recognize the CANDi interface which does not even light up as it did before. I thought this was the problem so I bought a new CANDi but still the same problem. So then i bought a new cable that connects the CANDi to the Tech2 thinking that must be it but no luck this time either.. Both the interface and the cable tested fine with another Tech2 an my original CANDi is also fine it seems. If fiddle around with the connector to the car the CANDi blinks a little in a certain position but does not act as it should or stays connected. Getting tired (and poor) thowing parts at this otherwise great diagnostic unit so I am therefor asking for som expert help.. Would greatly appreciate any guidance or direction concerning this from you or anyone else out there . Best wishes from Sweden! Bobby
Hard to debug things like this without a second Tech2 and CANDI module as well as a second vehicle preferably older pre-CANDI. When I've hit such issues I've first swapped things around to see what changes I get in behavior. I've never seen, or even heard, of a clone cable going. Have heard of CANDI failures though. Will the Tech2 work on an older vehicle, one that doesn't need a CANDI? What you're looking for is data to help do root cause analysis on the point of failure to avoid throwing parts at it.
@@DrShock Thanks for reply! As I wrote the both of the candi units seems to be fine as they act the same way with my Tech2. One of them was tested with a different Tech2 in another car without issues so it must be my Tech2 that is at fault. I have not tested it with a car that does not need the candi but probably should..I was hoping that there might be a circuit in the Tech2 that powers up the candi that could need repair. But just guessing as I am not qualified in electrics..
No schematics ever published, so very little can be done to repair them beyond basic power supply parts because of that. But if you find it still works with an older vehicle, it may have value to someone to resale for that.
If anyone is having problems with non genuine tech 2 especially the rj45 port make sure the pins on it are grounded from the inside this can result in the no connection established in tis2000 - their is many things that can go wrong even connection with display I had an occurrence in which I had to ground my rj45 I assembled it and my screen had lines going through the result was bad pin connection btw if you guys do end up opening up the tech 2 clean the excess flux with some electronics cleaner and a toothbrush /rework any solder joints that the Chinese manufacturer might have gone through poorly . This has been a service announcement by a fellow tech 2 owner .
Hi you say the module has failed. Was there a way to test it? I have no power up. All parts work on another tech 2 so it's something within the body. Any test method please .
You would have to remove the module from the circuit to test it completely, but if you look up the datasheet for the replacement part I reference in the video, you would have the input and output pins to check with a DVM. Remember one pin is a power button sense so the device won't even power up without that. I would start with using the external AC adapter only, connected to the base of the unit barrel jack (not the DLC cable jack) and probe for input +DC power from the adapter first. Then I would follow that circuit (remember there are no schematics for these tools) carefully over to the converter. I've not personally had to do this, so can't help with specifics - just sharing the most logical initial debug approach I would take if faced with this. In my case, I felt the converter was cheap enough I just shotgunned it - replaced it and found I guessed correctly. ;-)
It could be several problems unfortunately. There's no one root cause. Failed component(s) within the circuitry that generates the image to the LCD, bad internal battery, damaged ribbon cable, or cable connector(s), corrupted firmware flash image. There are no schematics available to debug anything on these. Visual inspection is all that's available. Sometimes you can ge lucky and spot the problem (failed capacitor on the board, for example).
@@DrShock Hmmm, I thought maybe that's what was causing my RS232 communication not to work properly with the SPS. I've checked cables, baud rates etc....
Nah the problem is that the internal chip based firmware (not the PCMCIA card software) on the clones can't handle more than calendar year 2010. If you have set the time/date and have a good battery it will just be this problem. If you have a communications problem, be sure you're running on Windows 2000 or Windows XP. The TIS2000 application is written for a very ancient level of Java and just won't work properly on anything newer (though you could put WinXP into a VM on Win7/Win8/Win10). The other problem is the USB to serial adapter, only a few will work with the tight timings this tool requires. GM recommended only the Tripp Lite Keyspan adapter which I include a link to in the description.
@@DrShock Yeah, I have been trying on a windows 10 machine with a different brand of USB to 232 converter. The tool goes into programming mode and will either stay that way or revert back to the startup sceen. I do still have a XP machine with an actual 232 port and IE 8. I may try that to see what happens.
I have some questions about differentiating between genuine and clone Tech 2 scan tools. Do you have much skill at this? I would like to share some pictures of my Tech 2 for evaluation. Is there a forum you are active on where I could contact you and share images?
If you search on YT there are some videos about this. But it isn't my forte. I have no problems with the Chinese clones and thus no need to have concerns about telling them apart. These clones have 100% functional parity with the original in the 3-4 years despite what you may read. Tho they are not well enough constructed or rugged enough for use in a shop full time (which is probably the source of most negs on them). But if you take care of them (keep dry/keep cool/keep from vibrations) they are worth every penny of the $350 or so they will save you from out of warranty dealership charges.
@@DrShock Thanks for the reply. I got the impression from this video that you've opened up more than one Tech 2 for the DC/DC repair or perhaps other reasons. Have you done this repair on any genuine Tech 2s? Have you ever encountered a Bosch-branded clone? It seems that all the clones I've seen online are either branded "Vetronix" or "GM", but perhaps there are others. Bosch? OTC? HP?
I've done this same repair on a good dozen or so clones by now, but never originals. Though there are plenty of forum posts out there on folks who have done this same fix successfully on originals (and gained the restart on cranking problem like the clones once they did). This is about the only circuit board repair that can be DIY given no schematics. No, I've never seen or heard of any Bosch branded clones, nor HP branded clones. But of course either are possible, it's just a sticker. If originality is a concern, you are looking at close to $1,500 for a Bosch Tech2 Pro Optima as the only "genuine" version still manufactured (though those are likely parts sourced by the same Chinese suppliers that sell to the cloners).
@@DrShock I guess I should clarify that I've already bought one, but I'm not sure if it's genuine or a clone. At this point I'm just trying to figure out if I got a really good deal on a genuine Tech 2 or got hosed on a clone... My unit seems to pass the majority of the criteria that indicate a genuine Tech 2, but it also fails on a few points. It's just so hard to tell for sure because I know that some of the checks discussed in forums and other UA-cam videos are outdated. On top of that, I've started to suspect that the genuine ones are resembling the clones more and more over time with continual cost-cutting measures. As you said, both the clone and genuine Tech 2s likely source many of their parts from the same suppliers. Mine is clearly a newer example, whether genuine or clone, but I'm not sure if mine is a real one that's displaying some features historically associated with the clones due to more recent cost cutting measures, or if it's a newer clone that's a more convincing forgery because the factories have corrected many of the features that used to be dead giveaways that you've got a clone.
To get a little more specific, do you recall if any of the clones you've handled had a date code stamped on the inside of the PCMCIA card door? I bought mine from a recently retired mechanic. I knew that a date stamped on the inside of the PC card door is considered a sign of a genuine unit prior to buying it, and that was my main authenticity check when I looked at it. It had a code stamped inside the door, so I bought it. I bought it along with two other Chrysler factory scan tools, which I absolutely know are genuine because they've never been cloned, so I guess I also took that as some level of assurance that the Tech 2 was genuine as well. I looked into the clone-vs-real issue more after I got it home and that's when I started to become concerned that mine might be a clone. The main point of concern is that mine has the "reboot on engine start" behavior. So I guess the possibilities are: 1) It's a clone 2) It's genuine and has had the DC/DC converter replaced 3) It's genuine and has a malfunctioning DC/DC converter 4) It's genuine and Bosch has cheapened them up so much in recent years that even the newer genuine ones can't maintain power during engine start I suppose I should just open it up and see what's inside. Genuine or clone, I'm sure it's out of warranty at this point.
Hello, I need help, my tech2 starts very well, but in a minute the whole screen turns blue and you do not see anything ... I have to wait for about an hour and it goes again, it works fine but in a minute it puts blue again, what could it be ?, the capacitors?
Have not come across this problem. There are no schematics for these, so if it were happening to me I'd have to throw parts at it sadly. If it was a clone and not a genuine Tech2 (too expensive to repair a genuine one), I'd try replacing the LCD assembly unit as it reads like its dying out once warmed up (though check and clean the internals around the LCD connectors first) - ebay.to/2HZiQn8
good video i have a problem with my tech2 i write a wrong bin file on it and i want to erase all but i dont know what i do soory for my english im french
If you have an active ACDelco TDS subscription, you can update the firmware using TIS2Web to the last version ever released for your country region. If you have TIS2000 you can at least update the firmware to the last version of 2007. If you have neither, it gets alot more complicated and best to google your options there to update the PCMCIA memory flash card manually.
@@DrShock Èxcuse my profanity, but I can not see any link under the video. Can you help me out ? Thank you for your time and sorry for my clumsiness :).
This repair is usually done on a dead Tech2. So sounds like you are saying yours was working _before_ you did the DC-DC converter replacement? If so I would suspect either the converter was installed backwards (check pin one alignment), defective converter, damaged solder joint pad(s), or damage to another surface mount component near the converter on the board. The manufacturer datasheet for the DC-DC converter will have the pinout.
@@DrShock solder joints look good, and yes it was working before but I figured I'd do the upgrade but of course, now that I have attempted it, it's 'broken' ... It looks like it can only go in one way? maybe it is defective, it took ages to arrive, debating on getting another.
@@DrShock I followed your videoto the letter. My solder joints seemed like they made good contact, no joints touched anything else. I have no idea why it doesn't work other than maybe I have a defective regulator. It took ages to get all the parts together to get my spare working again so it sucks that I have to order yet another whole unit. No idea why it doesn't work now. It's difficult to get the soldering unit off now but I touched up the joints just IN CASE and still nothing. :(
@@tonyq4358 You're sure it's really DOA - no power LED *and* no LCD display? Just saying as I've seen folks do this where they don't get the ribbon connectors reinstalled correctly and it looked dead but really wasn't. With the DC-DC converter, I haven't seen one come in dead before. But then I would be avoiding Aliexpress and other Chinese sources. Try to only buy them off eBay from a US based seller.
On eBay or Aliexpress, though I trust eBay more myself. Look for a US based seller who is showing a real picture of the device in the listing. Also have an eBay search link in the video description.
my clone tech2 turns on but doesn't make it past the system initializing screen. I have swapped the PCI card to try, but didn't work. Could it be this regulator? Thanks!
No, this would be for a no power situation. For what you describe, presuming the Tech2 worked previously and then this behavior started, I would suspect the firmware on the PCMCIA type card inserted into the bottom. The weak link on these clone Tech2s is this card as it's very cheaply made and can get read errors or similar problems. If you can borrow someone else's it's a quick check.
DrShock thanks. I bought a new card already and that didn’t change things. Maybe I just need to take it apart and clean it well. It worked perfect for a while now. I left it in a warehouse for a few days then it stopped working. It’s fairly humid here so maybe the humidity messed it up.
You might try swapping the PCMCIA jack the firmware card is using too. But yeah oxidation and poor solder joints are other things to check when its opened up. Overall I've had pretty good luck. I've had three, only one of which died outright which was within the first month. The other two I've had for a few years now and never have ran into anything the clone can't do with both TIS2000 and TIS2Web.
DrShock, I have a 1996 Buick Century and I need to replace the Master Brake cylinder. The shop manual states that prior to removing the Master Brake cylinder I MUST perform an ABS "Gear Tension Relief" procedure. The Shop manual states that this process is done utilizing the GM bidirectional Tech 1 scan tool. I was going to purchase one of these Chinese knock-offs if it performs that function. When you scroll through the menu have you ever seen "Gear Tension Relief" as an option? It's a completely different procedure from the auto brake bleed cycling procedure. Thank you for the video... great detail...
@John Barrett that Tech 1 tool is a really old one and I don't have access to one anymore. But the Tech2 does have this procedure. I can't check live as this is something that only comes up on the menu after the tool communicates with the actual vehicle. But this PDF I've found very useful over the years for confirming menu paths for various functions in the Tech2. I see your procedure listed here - gsi.ext.gm.com/userguides/GM_Tech2_Paths.pdf
DrShock, One last question: Would you have a recommendation for a seller of the Tech 2? I figure that these units are most likely being manufactured by maybe 2 or so separate shops. I was just wondering if you may have noticed better quality from one over the other. On the other hand, it is China so it's like fishing in the ocean when it comes to quality. Thank you again for taking the time to answer these questions. You are a wealth of knowledge.
@John Barrett As best I recall when researching for my own Tech2 clone purchase several years ago, there were two "cloners" in China. I don't recall that there was anyway to tell them apart, but the better deal was the one that included ALL of the cables and adapters like the original. If you look at this eBay affiliate search ebay.us/pvwxSt you will see a mix of Tech2s, including some originals. The ones with pictures of a CANDi module, DLC cable and 5 DLC adapters (you'll see stuff you'll likely never use like a SaaB adapter) are the ones I would focus on. These "complete" kits are almost certainly the higher quality build type. Though nowadays you hardly ever see a US based seller offering them and have to go with China. I prefer eBay for these kinds of purchases since I know I can get my money back if there's a problem. GL.
@@DrShock, Thank You again for all your time and attention. I followed your lead and just ordered one off ebay. It was $309.00 including shipping from Rowland Heights, California. I'm using those PDF links you sent to get a head start on it's operations prior to its arrival. The more I read and research this unit the more it appears that it's a decent investment for working on the old 1996 Buick.
Logic board failure, not user repairable as no schematics were ever made public for this tool. If you have a genuine Tech2 you can pay Bosch to repair it as they are still supported there. But if it's a clone, it's ready for the electronics recycling bin or eBay it out for parts. You might try a second PCMCIA firmware card in case its corrupted, but that would be a long shot. Before I tossed it into the bin, I'd open it up and check that all the internal connections were still snug too, in case something worked itself loose.
@@DrShock Hi thanks for your reply. I opened it as you showed and found that the LCD screen pins were loose. Now I get the boot up text but it shows RTC FAIL and CHKMEM FAIL and won't go any further. Any ideas what it could be. Battery check good and I reflowed the solder joints where I could. Thanks.
You lucked out that's for sure! So Real Time Clock (RTC) you can ignore, all Tech2s with the latest firmware get this error on POST even mine. But the Clock Memory (CLKMEM) is what I think you meant to type. This is either the coin battery that keeps the time needs replacing (or perhaps reseating/loose carrier) or you simply need to set the time (Set Clock) from the front Tool Options menu.
@@DrShock Hi again, thanks. Yes it is CLKMEN FAIL followed by three beeps. It won't allow me to go any further so I can't go in to set the time. I checked battery and connections and everything looks good. Any other ideas on what to check on the main board? I can email you a video when it boots up so you can see. Thanks for your advice.
If you're not even getting to the menu, then this CLKMEM error can _sometimes_ be caused by the PCMCIA card contents being corrupted. Have you recently tried to overwrite that, or swapped it out? You could try re-seating that adapter card, or try another of the two slots for it (be very careful not to bend any pins). You could try a second PCMCIA card if you have access to one, or you could try rewriting the contents of the original card if you have the equipment to do so.
Are you able to get into the F3 tool options->F3 self tests menu after the power on tests? I'm not familiar with this external RAM failure during the POST so I don't know if it lets you go further. If it does, you could run the main PCB test and VCI separately to determine where the dead RAM (random access memory) chips are.
@@DrShock So it gives the initial test when I turn it on, then it reboots and does the test over and over. Can't get into it and it makes a beep noise. Eventually I will get to a blank blue screen after cycling for a while.
Haven't run into that problem before. About all I can suggest is trying a reseat of the PCMCIA card, and failing that I would do a partial disassembly hoping to spot anything obvious (burnt components, etc). Checking the chips for one that is excessively hot sometimes can provide a clue as to what may be awry as well. But without a schematic its' next to impossible to repair these units.
@@DrShock Took it apart, cleaned all the flux with crc electrical spray, found no burnt or weird looking chips, now it starts with a blue screen with 5 horizontal lines.
That particular spray is not the best for printed circuit boards with the flexible interconnect type plastic connectors. I'd check ones for the keyboard and LCD to be sure your cleaner didn't leave any residue in them. Also check that you've got the small flexible cable connectors for the LCD fully reseated evenly. I have seen something like that before and it was simply not seated properly. If this is a genuine Tech2 there are places you can mail it in for repair. If it's the Chinese clone type, cheaper just to recycle it and buy a new one for situations like this with no obvious fix.
Another option is to install a LM2596S based converter on the board with two-sided tape and run wires to the board. It works down to around 6 volts and has adjustable output voltage. It requires special wiring which can be found on the Saabcentral forum. I modded mine a long time ago and i think that is the converter i am still running. My Tech 2 does not restart when i have to start the engine for a test.
I have never attempted anything like fine soldering on a tightly packed component board. I got the mornsun module and following your excellent tutorial, I achieved chunkulation and the Tech2 works again!! Thank you a thousand times!
Where do you found the spare?
Mine has a burnt part on the board numbered c231 , I can't make out any way to I'd the part becuase it burnt, looks to be a black block with two terminal legs. Does anyone know what this part is?
I can't believe I did this without frying something but it worked! I was holding the iron there with two hands for a while, but we got it done.
Thanks for this! Very helpful. My AliExpress version just died the same death. Another option is buy the entire board with new heatsink for $95.00. Expect a two month lead time though.
Success! Thanks again. I removed the screen for easier soldering. Also went with your method of just attacking the heatsink and brute forcing the pins through. Agreed about power supply removal taking most of the time...
@@djfremen …. How did you remove the screen? Was it soldered or did it have a clip/plug? There one for sale with a new screen but everyone read said some are soldered and others just plug.
Your tech 2 clone looks way better than the one I got My screen has pinned connections Case is all rough, its like the assembler broke off plastic tabs in it too, Steel Card door. I have the same power module in mine but no heat sink is on it and it gets warm! I kinda wish someone would say who sells the higher quality tech 2 clones vs the low end ones which I mostly likely received. It does pass all the tests! Has Epson and Samsung chips if they are not fakes
Interesting video.I have one scanner like this but it was not working.I think it's might be the same problem. Thanks for the video.
Wow! Ang galing. God bless 🙏
Great video but I have to admit while I do a lot of things myself this scares me. Do you know of a repair shop I could send it to for reworking the soldering joints and replacement of the DC/DC 5VDC power converter?
Unlikely you would find a repair shop in general for this type of device. If you have an old school TV repair guy where you are, they might entertain doing it for you. It's just the experience and comfort with desoldering and soldering that is required, used to be pretty common skill in consumer electronics repair but now everything is throw away rather than fix. But a long established TV repair place should have those skills still.
That looks like a job for the Hakko 808!
I enjoyed watching this video. Can you advise me on the vci module issue I believe I'm having?
possibly, ask your question
Our tech 2 clone powers up fine but doesn't connect with any vehicle. When I try the self test procedure it does not detect that I have the VCI loopback adapter plugged, and fails all of the tests as if the adapter is not connected. I suspect that it may be the vci module. Do you have any advice on this?
There's no published schematics, so board level repairs are not really doable on the VCI module. They do sell replacement VCI modules on ebay and Aliexpress from time to time. Before going that route I'd check for oxidation on the contacts causing connectivity issues. If you're comfortable with electronics, I'd open it up and look for obvious issues like burnt components (tantalum caps are used on this board that can burn out) or corrosion that might be worth addressing before full replacement.
Thank you for your suggestions. We purchased the tech 2 six months ago, and had used it successfully three or four times. We opened the module and nothing appears burnt or corroded on the board. I'll try giving the contacts a good cleaning before deciding on a total replacement or purchase of another vci module.
Thanks again.
Six months would be a very short lifespan for the VCI, even for a clone. You should be getting years of service out of one, unless you are using it in a shop setting. When you say _we_ purchased, I got the feeling you might be using it in a shop vs DIY. The component quality on these clones are great for DIY, or occasional pro use, but not for daily pro use.
Will this fix prevent the tech 2 from rebooting when restarting engine for calibration mode? Even using a separate power source?
Sadly no. The problem is that the isolated voltage DC-DC converter GM spec'd was custom, and could handle an input voltage drop as a low as 7VDC without shutting down output voltage. No part publicly available can handle less than ~9VDC without shutting off momentarily, due to the high cost to manufacture to such a spec as GM had. During an engine cranking event the vehicle battery power does drop below 9VDC or even 8VDC depending on the vehicle model and battery situation (there are some vehicles that this doesn't occur hence reports this fix "works" but it really doesn't in the broad sense). There are some projects out there to use an LM2596S converter device, but its quite involved to get the Tech2 power button to still work with it, and then its not isolated voltage anymore anyway which could introduce problems for some SPS calibration procedures. What I did is I made an adapter that sits between the vehicle plug and the Tech2 cable that removes the voltage pin to force external power to be used (gotta keep a commond vehicle ground though). In a pinch you could look for a fuse supplying the ODB power and pull it, some vehicles have this since its an external port.
@@DrShock can you do a short video about this? My friend has a couple of Chinese made tech 2's like mine and one of them doesn't reboot. And able to calibrate on the same vehicle.
Its random like I mentioned, some of the replacement DC-DC converters just by luck/chance happen to tolerate a bit lower input voltage before shutting down, so they survive the engine crank battery voltage drop. If you mean about making a video using the LM2596S approach? Yeah, I'll consider that may be awhile before I can get to it though.
@@DrShock This is taken from the Tech 2 user manual 2006 Vetronix... "If the DLC and external power source are both connected, the power jack connection supplies current to the Tech 2. In this instance, power from the vehicle's DLC connector is automatically disconnected from the Tech 2 internal power supply."
Yeah but they're asking about a clone tool here not the Vetronix original. The clones do not behave the same way as the Vetronix, they reboot when you start the engine because of the DC-DC converter differences. You could connect a separate power, but normally you're remote with the vehicle and no AC power making that impractical but sure that should work too.
Are the copies reliable of tech 3 and can you purchase an online subscription do you think for the copy tool to do keys?
Well there's no such thing as a _Tech 3_ out there. There's the Tech2, followed by the MDI, and the current GM tool is the MDI2. The clones of the Tech2 and MDI can be very good, but you have to get the more expensive ones to not have incompatibilities. I have videos on the right MDI. The clones of the MDI2 are very incompatible still, because all they are is the MDI board cut to fit inside a fake MDI2 case. They actually cannot do any of the new MDI2 protocols yet, but they are fine with Techline Connect as just an MDI 1.
Hello, please can you help my, in my original tech2 there are other pins used. Original there is a iws705cz ac/dc converter. I can fit the mornsun converter, but the pins are not on the same spot.
Yeah the original uses a different pinout on the PCB than the clones. And I believe the original uses 6 pins whereas the clones use 5 pins. There's no known datasheet for the Power-one converter so I can't help you with a pin out adapter, but these original converters do come up on eBay maybe once a year.
Interestingly I only recall seeing someone fix a genuine Tech2 using the Traco Power 10-1211 DC-DC converter part, which has only 4 pins. Which ever way you go, the original will lose the ability to not restart during engine cranking (see my video description for details), and will likely lose the power on button function (something unique to the Power-one DC-DC converter it originally came with).
I just got screw mine brand new doesn't powered up any ideas ?? 2004 cadillac xlr bush button start
Brand new? Best advice is return to seller for exchange. Why try to repair if new right.
Have an original gm tech 2 with no power issue would this fix the problem?
It's one possible cause, perhaps the most common on clone Tech2s. But not the only one. On originals this is a less common reason, but you come across it there too in forums from time to time.
i left mine plugged in to the car (everything was turned off) for like 30 mins while i went to get dinner and when i got back out my Tech2 just shows a blue screen and beeps 4 or 3 times then stays blue.
Could this be the issue?
This repair would typically be for a no power / dead situation only.
My TECH2 still powers up and works fine when getting power from the car, but when I use the power plug on the bottom of the TECH2 it sometimes will not power on. When it does it has pops and sparks coming from the power supply. Tried other power supplies, does the same thing. Seems like power is kicking back from the TECH2 (bad diode?). Can the DC to DC converter cause this as well. Device works fine otherwise.
Edward Shockley
Yeah, I thought about it more and took the vci module out. Going to swap it out with a friends and see if that fixes it. Thanks for the reply.
Just an update. Replaced the dc-dc converter. All fixed. Ran self-test everything passed. Power from external power supply working fine now. Thanks for info from this video. Big help!!
Hi, great video! I have a question no one else has been able to answer about my Tech2 knock off that i bought for my Saab 9-5 2008. If anyone could give me some advice it must be you. It worked fine for over two years in my own 9-5 2007 and 2008 cars with the CANDi interface, but then i hooked it up to my friends 2006 Saab 9-3 that had some electrical problems with the generator etc. Big misstake! After that the Tech2 lights up and seems normal and passes all the test but does NOT recognize the CANDi interface which does not even light up as it did before. I thought this was the problem so I bought a new CANDi but still the same problem. So then i bought a new cable that connects the CANDi to the Tech2 thinking that must be it but no luck this time either.. Both the interface and the cable tested fine with another Tech2 an my original CANDi is also fine it seems. If fiddle around with the connector to the car the CANDi blinks a little in a certain position but does not act as it should or stays connected. Getting tired (and poor) thowing parts at this otherwise great diagnostic unit so I am therefor asking for som expert help.. Would greatly appreciate any guidance or direction concerning this from you or anyone else out there . Best wishes from Sweden! Bobby
Hard to debug things like this without a second Tech2 and CANDI module as well as a second vehicle preferably older pre-CANDI. When I've hit such issues I've first swapped things around to see what changes I get in behavior. I've never seen, or even heard, of a clone cable going. Have heard of CANDI failures though. Will the Tech2 work on an older vehicle, one that doesn't need a CANDI? What you're looking for is data to help do root cause analysis on the point of failure to avoid throwing parts at it.
@@DrShock Thanks for reply! As I wrote the both of the candi units seems to be fine as they act the same way with my Tech2. One of them was tested with a different Tech2 in another car without issues so it must be my Tech2 that is at fault. I have not tested it with a car that does not need the candi but probably should..I was hoping that there might be a circuit in the Tech2 that powers up the candi that could need repair. But just guessing as I am not qualified in electrics..
No schematics ever published, so very little can be done to repair them beyond basic power supply parts because of that. But if you find it still works with an older vehicle, it may have value to someone to resale for that.
Do you add the heat sink back when using the mornson module?
No, that was needed for the inferior module the cloners had come up with. Toss it in the recycle bin.
If anyone is having problems with non genuine tech 2 especially the rj45 port make sure the pins on it are grounded from the inside this can result in the no connection established in tis2000 - their is many things that can go wrong even connection with display I had an occurrence in which I had to ground my rj45 I assembled it and my screen had lines going through the result was bad pin connection btw if you guys do end up opening up the tech 2 clean the excess flux with some electronics cleaner and a toothbrush /rework any solder joints that the Chinese manufacturer might have gone through poorly . This has been a service announcement by a fellow tech 2 owner .
Where do you ground it to?
Hi you say the module has failed. Was there a way to test it? I have no power up. All parts work on another tech 2 so it's something within the body. Any test method please .
You would have to remove the module from the circuit to test it completely, but if you look up the datasheet for the replacement part I reference in the video, you would have the input and output pins to check with a DVM. Remember one pin is a power button sense so the device won't even power up without that. I would start with using the external AC adapter only, connected to the base of the unit barrel jack (not the DLC cable jack) and probe for input +DC power from the adapter first. Then I would follow that circuit (remember there are no schematics for these tools) carefully over to the converter. I've not personally had to do this, so can't help with specifics - just sharing the most logical initial debug approach I would take if faced with this. In my case, I felt the converter was cheap enough I just shotgunned it - replaced it and found I guessed correctly. ;-)
DrShock thank you , there’s one in the post 👍🏼
My Tech 2 clone only has a blue screen. A\Someone told me it was the ribbon cable to the LED screen. Any thoughts on that?
It could be several problems unfortunately. There's no one root cause.
Failed component(s) within the circuitry that generates the image to the LCD, bad internal battery, damaged ribbon cable, or cable connector(s), corrupted firmware flash image. There are no schematics available to debug anything on these. Visual inspection is all that's available. Sometimes you can ge lucky and spot the problem (failed capacitor on the board, for example).
Thank you it is new and has never been used. I guess I will have to buy another and sell off the extra parts. Thank you@@DrShock
Did your China Tech 2 give you a fail for RTC at start up self test?
Yep, they all do that.
@@DrShock Hmmm, I thought maybe that's what was causing my RS232 communication not to work properly with the SPS. I've checked cables, baud rates etc....
Nah the problem is that the internal chip based firmware (not the PCMCIA card software) on the clones can't handle more than calendar year 2010. If you have set the time/date and have a good battery it will just be this problem. If you have a communications problem, be sure you're running on Windows 2000 or Windows XP. The TIS2000 application is written for a very ancient level of Java and just won't work properly on anything newer (though you could put WinXP into a VM on Win7/Win8/Win10). The other problem is the USB to serial adapter, only a few will work with the tight timings this tool requires. GM recommended only the Tripp Lite Keyspan adapter which I include a link to in the description.
@@DrShock Yeah, I have been trying on a windows 10 machine with a different brand of USB to 232 converter. The tool goes into programming mode and will either stay that way or revert back to the startup sceen. I do still have a XP machine with an actual 232 port and IE 8. I may try that to see what happens.
@@DrShock Problem solved, I loaded software onto my XP machine and it works perfectly. 👌
I have some questions about differentiating between genuine and clone Tech 2 scan tools. Do you have much skill at this? I would like to share some pictures of my Tech 2 for evaluation. Is there a forum you are active on where I could contact you and share images?
If you search on YT there are some videos about this. But it isn't my forte. I have no problems with the Chinese clones and thus no need to have concerns about telling them apart. These clones have 100% functional parity with the original in the 3-4 years despite what you may read. Tho they are not well enough constructed or rugged enough for use in a shop full time (which is probably the source of most negs on them). But if you take care of them (keep dry/keep cool/keep from vibrations) they are worth every penny of the $350 or so they will save you from out of warranty dealership charges.
@@DrShock Thanks for the reply. I got the impression from this video that you've opened up more than one Tech 2 for the DC/DC repair or perhaps other reasons. Have you done this repair on any genuine Tech 2s? Have you ever encountered a Bosch-branded clone? It seems that all the clones I've seen online are either branded "Vetronix" or "GM", but perhaps there are others. Bosch? OTC? HP?
I've done this same repair on a good dozen or so clones by now, but never originals. Though there are plenty of forum posts out there on folks who have done this same fix successfully on originals (and gained the restart on cranking problem like the clones once they did). This is about the only circuit board repair that can be DIY given no schematics. No, I've never seen or heard of any Bosch branded clones, nor HP branded clones. But of course either are possible, it's just a sticker. If originality is a concern, you are looking at close to $1,500 for a Bosch Tech2 Pro Optima as the only "genuine" version still manufactured (though those are likely parts sourced by the same Chinese suppliers that sell to the cloners).
@@DrShock I guess I should clarify that I've already bought one, but I'm not sure if it's genuine or a clone. At this point I'm just trying to figure out if I got a really good deal on a genuine Tech 2 or got hosed on a clone...
My unit seems to pass the majority of the criteria that indicate a genuine Tech 2, but it also fails on a few points. It's just so hard to tell for sure because I know that some of the checks discussed in forums and other UA-cam videos are outdated. On top of that, I've started to suspect that the genuine ones are resembling the clones more and more over time with continual cost-cutting measures. As you said, both the clone and genuine Tech 2s likely source many of their parts from the same suppliers. Mine is clearly a newer example, whether genuine or clone, but I'm not sure if mine is a real one that's displaying some features historically associated with the clones due to more recent cost cutting measures, or if it's a newer clone that's a more convincing forgery because the factories have corrected many of the features that used to be dead giveaways that you've got a clone.
To get a little more specific, do you recall if any of the clones you've handled had a date code stamped on the inside of the PCMCIA card door?
I bought mine from a recently retired mechanic. I knew that a date stamped on the inside of the PC card door is considered a sign of a genuine unit prior to buying it, and that was my main authenticity check when I looked at it. It had a code stamped inside the door, so I bought it. I bought it along with two other Chrysler factory scan tools, which I absolutely know are genuine because they've never been cloned, so I guess I also took that as some level of assurance that the Tech 2 was genuine as well.
I looked into the clone-vs-real issue more after I got it home and that's when I started to become concerned that mine might be a clone. The main point of concern is that mine has the "reboot on engine start" behavior. So I guess the possibilities are:
1) It's a clone
2) It's genuine and has had the DC/DC converter replaced
3) It's genuine and has a malfunctioning DC/DC converter
4) It's genuine and Bosch has cheapened them up so much in recent years that even the newer genuine ones can't maintain power during engine start
I suppose I should just open it up and see what's inside. Genuine or clone, I'm sure it's out of warranty at this point.
Hello, I need help, my tech2 starts very well, but in a minute the whole screen turns blue and you do not see anything ... I have to wait for about an hour and it goes again, it works fine but in a minute it puts blue again, what could it be ?, the capacitors?
Have not come across this problem. There are no schematics for these, so if it were happening to me I'd have to throw parts at it sadly. If it was a clone and not a genuine Tech2 (too expensive to repair a genuine one), I'd try replacing the LCD assembly unit as it reads like its dying out once warmed up (though check and clean the internals around the LCD connectors first) - ebay.to/2HZiQn8
Hi.. any video"s on the CANdi box.. mine has died power supply area.
I've personally not ran into a problem to have to debug/fix a CANdi yet. You might have better luck looking thru forums rather than for a vid on that.
DrShock, where can I find a Tech 2 screen? I dropped the tech2 and the screen broke.
They ain't cheap, but here's an eBay affiliate link ebay.us/rWPv61 and another place would be www.aliexpress.com
good video i have a problem with my tech2 i write a wrong bin file on it and i want to erase all but i dont know what i do soory for my english im french
If you have an active ACDelco TDS subscription, you can update the firmware using TIS2Web to the last version ever released for your country region. If you have TIS2000 you can at least update the firmware to the last version of 2007. If you have neither, it gets alot more complicated and best to google your options there to update the PCMCIA memory flash card manually.
Can you provide a link where I caan fincd one of these DC to DC convertors. My search on eBay and Aliexpress turned up nothing. Thank you !
I clicked the eBay link I have posted in the description, and 13 sellers of this part came up. You can only get it from China nowadays though.
@@DrShock Èxcuse my profanity, but I can not see any link under the video. Can you help me out ? Thank you for your time and sorry for my clumsiness :).
Hi - I finally found it - thank you for your help and the nice explanatory video.
Installed this but now the Tech 2 doesn't power up. Which pins do I test for continuity?
This repair is usually done on a dead Tech2. So sounds like you are saying yours was working _before_ you did the DC-DC converter replacement? If so I would suspect either the converter was installed backwards (check pin one alignment), defective converter, damaged solder joint pad(s), or damage to another surface mount component near the converter on the board. The manufacturer datasheet for the DC-DC converter will have the pinout.
@@DrShock solder joints look good, and yes it was working before but I figured I'd do the upgrade but of course, now that I have attempted it, it's 'broken' ... It looks like it can only go in one way? maybe it is defective, it took ages to arrive, debating on getting another.
How did you remove the clone one? Wondering if you lost or displaced some other nearby component using hot air or such?
@@DrShock I followed your videoto the letter. My solder joints seemed like they made good contact, no joints touched anything else. I have no idea why it doesn't work other than maybe I have a defective regulator. It took ages to get all the parts together to get my spare working again so it sucks that I have to order yet another whole unit. No idea why it doesn't work now. It's difficult to get the soldering unit off now but I touched up the joints just IN CASE and still nothing. :(
@@tonyq4358 You're sure it's really DOA - no power LED *and* no LCD display? Just saying as I've seen folks do this where they don't get the ribbon connectors reinstalled correctly and it looked dead but really wasn't.
With the DC-DC converter, I haven't seen one come in dead before. But then I would be avoiding Aliexpress and other Chinese sources. Try to only buy them off eBay from a US based seller.
Where do you get the Mornson or Recon modules?
On eBay or Aliexpress, though I trust eBay more myself. Look for a US based seller who is showing a real picture of the device in the listing. Also have an eBay search link in the video description.
my clone tech2 turns on but doesn't make it past the system initializing screen. I have swapped the PCI card to try, but didn't work. Could it be this regulator? Thanks!
No, this would be for a no power situation. For what you describe, presuming the Tech2 worked previously and then this behavior started, I would suspect the firmware on the PCMCIA type card inserted into the bottom. The weak link on these clone Tech2s is this card as it's very cheaply made and can get read errors or similar problems. If you can borrow someone else's it's a quick check.
DrShock thanks. I bought a new card already and that didn’t change things. Maybe I just need to take it apart and clean it well.
It worked perfect for a while now. I left it in a warehouse for a few days then it stopped working. It’s fairly humid here so maybe the humidity messed it up.
You might try swapping the PCMCIA jack the firmware card is using too. But yeah oxidation and poor solder joints are other things to check when its opened up. Overall I've had pretty good luck. I've had three, only one of which died outright which was within the first month. The other two I've had for a few years now and never have ran into anything the clone can't do with both TIS2000 and TIS2Web.
DrShock, I have a 1996 Buick Century and I need to replace the Master Brake cylinder. The shop manual states that prior to removing the Master Brake cylinder I MUST perform an ABS "Gear Tension Relief" procedure. The Shop manual states that this process is done utilizing the GM bidirectional Tech 1 scan tool. I was going to purchase one of these Chinese knock-offs if it performs that function. When you scroll through the menu have you ever seen "Gear Tension Relief" as an option? It's a completely different procedure from the auto brake bleed cycling procedure. Thank you for the video... great detail...
@John Barrett that Tech 1 tool is a really old one and I don't have access to one anymore. But the Tech2 does have this procedure. I can't check live as this is something that only comes up on the menu after the tool communicates with the actual vehicle. But this PDF I've found very useful over the years for confirming menu paths for various functions in the Tech2. I see your procedure listed here - gsi.ext.gm.com/userguides/GM_Tech2_Paths.pdf
@@DrShock You sir are a God! Thank you.
DrShock, One last question: Would you have a recommendation for a seller of the Tech 2? I figure that these units are most likely being manufactured by maybe 2 or so separate shops. I was just wondering if you may have noticed better quality from one over the other. On the other hand, it is China so it's like fishing in the ocean when it comes to quality.
Thank you again for taking the time to answer these questions. You are a wealth of knowledge.
@John Barrett As best I recall when researching for my own Tech2 clone purchase several years ago, there were two "cloners" in China. I don't recall that there was anyway to tell them apart, but the better deal was the one that included ALL of the cables and adapters like the original. If you look at this eBay affiliate search ebay.us/pvwxSt you will see a mix of Tech2s, including some originals.
The ones with pictures of a CANDi module, DLC cable and 5 DLC adapters (you'll see stuff you'll likely never use like a SaaB adapter) are the ones I would focus on. These "complete" kits are almost certainly the higher quality build type. Though nowadays you hardly ever see a US based seller offering them and have to go with China. I prefer eBay for these kinds of purchases since I know I can get my money back if there's a problem. GL.
@@DrShock, Thank You again for all your time and attention. I followed your lead and just ordered one off ebay. It was $309.00 including shipping from Rowland Heights, California.
I'm using those PDF links you sent to get a head start on it's operations prior to its arrival. The more I read and research this unit the more it appears that it's a decent investment for working on the old 1996 Buick.
Hi I've got a Tech2 scanner like this however the screen lights up but there is no text or image. What could be the problem?
Logic board failure, not user repairable as no schematics were ever made public for this tool. If you have a genuine Tech2 you can pay Bosch to repair it as they are still supported there. But if it's a clone, it's ready for the electronics recycling bin or eBay it out for parts. You might try a second PCMCIA firmware card in case its corrupted, but that would be a long shot. Before I tossed it into the bin, I'd open it up and check that all the internal connections were still snug too, in case something worked itself loose.
@@DrShock Hi thanks for your reply. I opened it as you showed and found that the LCD screen pins were loose. Now I get the boot up text but it shows RTC FAIL and CHKMEM FAIL and won't go any further. Any ideas what it could be. Battery check good and I reflowed the solder joints where I could. Thanks.
You lucked out that's for sure! So Real Time Clock (RTC) you can ignore, all Tech2s with the latest firmware get this error on POST even mine. But the Clock Memory (CLKMEM) is what I think you meant to type. This is either the coin battery that keeps the time needs replacing (or perhaps reseating/loose carrier) or you simply need to set the time (Set Clock) from the front Tool Options menu.
@@DrShock Hi again, thanks. Yes it is CLKMEN FAIL followed by three beeps. It won't allow me to go any further so I can't go in to set the time. I checked battery and connections and everything looks good. Any other ideas on what to check on the main board? I can email you a video when it boots up so you can see. Thanks for your advice.
If you're not even getting to the menu, then this CLKMEM error can _sometimes_ be caused by the PCMCIA card contents being corrupted. Have you recently tried to overwrite that, or swapped it out? You could try re-seating that adapter card, or try another of the two slots for it (be very careful not to bend any pins). You could try a second PCMCIA card if you have access to one, or you could try rewriting the contents of the original card if you have the equipment to do so.
When I power up my tech 2 clone, it fails self test. ERAM fail. Any ideas? Bad vci maybe?
Are you able to get into the F3 tool options->F3 self tests menu after the power on tests? I'm not familiar with this external RAM failure during the POST so I don't know if it lets you go further. If it does, you could run the main PCB test and VCI separately to determine where the dead RAM (random access memory) chips are.
@@DrShock So it gives the initial test when I turn it on, then it reboots and does the test over and over. Can't get into it and it makes a beep noise. Eventually I will get to a blank blue screen after cycling for a while.
Haven't run into that problem before. About all I can suggest is trying a reseat of the PCMCIA card, and failing that I would do a partial disassembly hoping to spot anything obvious (burnt components, etc). Checking the chips for one that is excessively hot sometimes can provide a clue as to what may be awry as well. But without a schematic its' next to impossible to repair these units.
@@DrShock Took it apart, cleaned all the flux with crc electrical spray, found no burnt or weird looking chips, now it starts with a blue screen with 5 horizontal lines.
That particular spray is not the best for printed circuit boards with the flexible interconnect type plastic connectors. I'd check ones for the keyboard and LCD to be sure your cleaner didn't leave any residue in them. Also check that you've got the small flexible cable connectors for the LCD fully reseated evenly. I have seen something like that before and it was simply not seated properly. If this is a genuine Tech2 there are places you can mail it in for repair. If it's the Chinese clone type, cheaper just to recycle it and buy a new one for situations like this with no obvious fix.
Another option is to install a LM2596S based converter on the board with two-sided tape and run wires to the board. It works down to around 6 volts and has adjustable output voltage. It requires special wiring which can be found on the Saabcentral forum. I modded mine a long time ago and i think that is the converter i am still running. My Tech 2 does not restart when i have to start the engine for a test.
That works, but is a hack. The real easy fix is far simpler - ua-cam.com/video/Mz-Ar6TAuiY/v-deo.html
Would you be able to fix my Tech 2 for some payment?