⭐ Other videos you may find helpful: Top 5 Furnace Problems: ua-cam.com/video/T4IWtKy--Vk/v-deo.html Furnace Sequence of Operation: ua-cam.com/video/AQD_MedIklI/v-deo.html Furnace Error Codes Explained: ua-cam.com/video/J8Zegm4TClM/v-deo.html How to Read Furnace Wiring Diagram: ua-cam.com/video/2MSedAkirqw/v-deo.html
Best video! A guy came out and said I needed a whole new furnace… the roll out switch tripping was intermittent, so I knew it was a blockage somewhere. Went to the pipe on the roof clogged like cement with debris. Fixed furnace perfectly! Saved me 7 k
I removed air filter just to test and it still got tripped. Blower motor still going, so not water in blower. Found my condensation line plugged from dirt in the utility sink. Cleaned that out, and now seems to be running fine. Thank you for posting the video. Saved me $$$!
I'm updating from my original post as my issue has been resolved and I credit your video for educating me. My heat (13 years old) would come on and then switch off and it turned out it was a lack of maintenance on my part. The technician cleaned the sensor and cleaned out the condensation line and it's worked perfectly ever since. I told the repair company what I thought it may be based on this video which cut down a lot of trouble shooting on their end and possibly saved me a lot of money because they could've very easily said I just need a new system. Thank you!!
Thank you for this video. Furnace was off since last night and it's 19 degrees with whipping wind. My minutes knowledge of furnaces reminded me that there are error codes. Got my six blinking red and google brought me straight to you. Was able to reset the switch and now I can brag for the rest of the week. Lol
Thanks, this video helped me solve my problem. Our thermostat was rebooting, but only during heating cycles. I couldn’t determine why and figured it must be a faulty thermostat. As it turns out, that was not the case. I ended up having a 33 code for an open flame roll out switch. Well, that would explain the resetting thermostat because the furnace was essentially shutting down and resetting itself…thus no power to the thermostat and the reboots. But, the problem was not actually flame roll out at all. There was no evidence of flame roll out, flame cones were fine, nothing blocked, filter is four weeks old, furnace is seven years and only 58,000 BTU. Turns out…it was the filter, but not because it was dirty…it was because it was too restrictive for air flow. The furnace would come on and there was not enough air flow to pull the heat from the heat exchanger fast enough resulting in the furnace heating up internally and tripping the roll out switch. The filter simply could not pass enough CFM. Took out the filter, problem solved. The filter was rated at MERV 11. I put in a new filter rated at MERV 8 and no more roll out switch tripping…and consequential potential damage to our furnace. High MERV may be good for air filtration…but not necessarily for your furnace.
Thanks for posting this comment! My scenario is very similar to yours so after quickly reading through your comment I tried running the furnace without a filter and sure enough it isn’t tripping the FRS anymore. Will bump down form a MERV 11 to a MERV 8 and see what happens.
Thanks for the comment, basically just had the same problem, was looking at the side of the filter MERV 11, and my old ones were 8, so popped an old one in that wasn’t too bad until I can get to the hardware store.
There’s another limit switch that is a one time use. I’m surprised it wasn’t tripping or played a part in this issue you had. It’s designed to trip and it’s in the airflow versus the rollout sensors. It must have a higher temperature rating that’s not being achieved in your scenario. Nice observation though and figuring it out on your own.
My furnace flame roll out switch tripped late Saturday night. No heat most of the night. Spend some time trying to figure out why nest stop working. Short story after couple of hours of good cold sleep, I end up finding this video early morning. Thanks to you it was a flame roll out switch tripped. I reset it and burner kicks in with nice cone shape flame as described in this video. I have a call out to furnace company to come out. At least house is started to warm until the technician comes later today. Thank you again and very helpful content.
Another thank you for all your great vids. After watching a few I was able to diagnose the issue I was having. The furnace shut down after running for about 5 minutes and only the inducer motor was coming on after I would restart it. My particular model has two of these switches. One in the flame box and one next to the inducer. I found the one at the inducer had tripped so I reset it and ran the system again. I noticed the exhaust duct was getting hotter than normal much faster than it should and tripped the switch again. I went through your diagnostic tips and found I had a broken vent on my roof. The rain cap was siting directly on top of the pipe blocking just enough flow to cause the problem. I made a temp fix to hold the vent cap in place and it's working as it should again. So, a prime tip for all you homeowners that have a roof replacement done during the summer, get up there an thoroughly inspect all your vents when the job is done. If I had noticed it then I could have had the roofing company install a new one on the spot instead of having to do it myself.
You are the only one who I found that solved my problem I have made 5 trips to the hardware store 3 to Walmart switched out my thermostat twice they sold me the wrong one I finally got it wired back up then exactly like you showed my error code flashed 6 times and now after watching this video I can go home tonight even though it's 30 degrees I can hopefully have it up and running by tomorrow thanks for your video I rent so instead of my landlord taking his time getting someone out there to fix it I'll do it myself and learn what to troubleshoot by your channel thanks 👍
Awesome video, man I'm finally starting to get the confidence to get my license and start running my own side jobs thanks to everything that I have been learning with you. THANK YOU!
I enjoy watching and learning, I just completed HVAC school in September 2018 - I’m more interested in Commercial not so much residential. I view most of your videos. Thanks a lot from Central California.
Hey Gilles! Thanks for watching my videos. Commercial brings in more profit so more power to you man :) Great career choice and good luck! I'm sure you will do good.
Thank you so much. Had a blockage in the burner assembly right after the gas jets. Cleared it out no no more problem and the furnace is running better then when I moved in.
Very efficient video. I’m a Journeyman electrician, with limited HVAC experience. Thanks for the concise information. I wanted to understand what flameout was. I’ve looked at hundreds of sensors, but I’ve never understood if they were photo eyes, heat sensors, infrared, etc. Thanks. 👍
Thank you great video. Found the bad rollout switch by jumping the connectors. Furnace worked. Then saw the backdraft on the burners. So, it appears bad heat exchanger. Not surprising since the furnace is 27 years old. Going to call the furnace guys tomorrow and see what they say. But I'm expecting the worse (new furnace), but hoping for the best (some other issue that won't cost as much). You video has prepared me!!! :)
Thank you so much for your amazing troubleshooting videos on a furnace. You just saved me $433.45 in parts and labor. Our Goodman furnace just stopped working and my Nest thermostat wasn't getting power. Bad control board! I bought one for $165 and if I had someone come out they quoted me $265 for the part and $300 in labor as they knew it was getting near the freezing mark in the Portland area. Thank you so much. It's so nice to walk around the house when it isn't 52° inside and 41° outside.
I'll really appreciate your videos and they're very informative. My furnace is driving me crazy, and it cuts out very inconsistent interval. I called 3 different repair company came out. They did for 10-15 minutes, and it always runs fine for that time when they're there. Then the issue comes back again and again. Total, I had them came out 6 times, $80-$100 per visit. Finally, I found out what they did was exactly what you explained here to clean the flame sensor. (Perhaps, I should have cleaned it with $100 bill instead) Since I watched lot of your videos and got knowledges about how it works. I'm tire of cleaning the flame sensor and sometimes it works for whole day or two, then it came back again. I went ahead and ordered genuine part twice. It works for a day or two and again, and thought I nailed it, but the flame doesn't stay on for minute or so. Watched your 10 most issues video and tried to eliminate one at a time ... seems to be clueless of what's going on right now. I think I will go ahead to replace the thermostat soon. Anything you could share or I have missed? Already spent almost $600 repair for no part replacement from 3 companies ... Otherwise, I would have replaced new one in the first place.
Thanks for this! I had a Payne high efficiency furnace installed in 2008. 5 years later, in 2013, the #33 code rollout kept coming on. It starts up and runs fine, and then sometime in the night, the flame is shut off and the fan blows cold air continuously until you reset the rollout switch. As the story was told..., the heat exchangers were coated in polypropylene, and that eventually deteriorates and was clogging the heat exchanger. So after a considerable fight and almost legal battle with the Payne/Bryant/Carrier distributor and company (and shyster Carrier serviceman who tried to intimidate me into paying for the parts too), I was able to hold them to their warranty promise of paying for the parts (I paid labor and their multiple transportation trips). Supposedly there was a class action suit on the failing heat exchangers, but I could never figure out if that were true or not... Anyway, I suspect I got the exact same heat exchanger as a replacement, because it is now 2021, and the code is happening again. I watched all your videos and have done all the diagnostics, and it appears it's doing the exact same thing as in 2013. Do you have any experience or wisdom on this problem with Payne. And secondly, can you recommend a furnace that is actually worth paying for? Thanks for all your awesome videos!
Take a level and make sure the body of the furnace is tilted forward slightly. If a high efficiency furnace is tilted level or backward, you'll have poor flow out of the secondary heat exchanger. This will form a stagnant pool leading to extensive corrosion. That's how it always happens. I prefer the type of furnace in this video. The standard efficiency furnaces almost never generate service calls. You lose a few percent worth of fuel, but I prefer for my heat to work reliably. Most issues are from a dirty flame sensor from not being cleaned for years or a stat related issue. The Trane two stage 80% furnace from the 90s are some of the best around. They don't make them like that anymore.
Thanks so much you saved us! Going into the 2nd arctic freeze in a few weeks when the rollout switch tripped and the blower motor wouldn't shutoff. I watched your video and fixed it myself till the tech can get here to diagnose the cause. Warming back up in Buffalo, NY
Jay, your the best! I was getting a error code 33 on high efficiency carrier ..turned out it was the roll out switch..thx to your many informative podcast. Many blessings to you. I reset it and unit came in flames are cone shaped looking great. Again a million thanks 😊
Well a first for me! My roll out switch tripped and after a lot of trying , I realized that when I separated the flue that goes to the roof to clean it of some refuse, I didn’t get it back on exactly right. I had just replaced the flame sensor and cleaned the flue and then when trying to start furnace it kept interrupting the ignition cycle. Long story but the pressure switch code was on and I realized the induced draft was slightly pulling thru the inside of the cabinet and causing a slight temp increase which was shutting down the roll out switch. We took the flue off and replaced it back in and voila! The furnace works great now! Wow I learned something really valuable here
Inadequate combustion air, or a house that is running negative pressure, due to exhaust fans, cloths dryer etc can cause rollout at the furnace, because the makeup air for the items mention above will be drawn from the furnace flue, which will cause a backdraft and flame rollout. Good video.
This video really helped out! I didn’t know about the button reset on the sensor, I just clicked it and it made “click” on one of the two. I turned the heat off before doing that. Turned the heat back on and now it’s working 🔥 I have a Rheem, it was installed when I purchased my home in 2019. This was a whole new setup too
*Update - It turned on a for few minutes but it turned back off. I’m replacing it anyways but I’m waiting on Amazon to bring it today. It worked temporarily but not for long. But great content and knowledgeable information! I’m subscribing
@ it was the switch, I know the manufacturer request for all OEM parts but I couldn’t find it sooner than I needed so I ended ordering it on Amazon and it got here the next day. Installed it and it’s been working since I commented on here. No issue whatsoever
Jay, super useful video. You speak very clearly so it's a great gift of teaching. I found my issue as per your other video on 10 reasons why blower kept running. My switch was tripped while I was not home. So now I have to get ready to open my wallet and replace my old furnace. Thank you!
Excellent description regarding the function of the flame roll out switch and the suggested course of action to resolve. Keep up the very informative videos they have helped to give me a better understanding of what to look for for in residential systems. I'm in my 4th year of HVAC and your videos have been a great help !
Hey love your clear and calm explanations! May I ask a couple questions: 1) Why is it that gas dryers (at least the one I have which I opened up because it broke), don’t have flame rollout switches? Isn’t that weird? Could it be something is taking the place of it that I didn’t recognize - or the design itself of the dryer in some way makes it a non issue? 2) You know how a dryer has a cycling thermostat/low limit thermostat/regulating thermostat/ - what does a furnace have that’s analogous to that? 3) I heard furnaces don’t have “low limit switches”. Why is that?! Thanks !
Thanks for showing how to press the tab to reset the switch! It seemed so flimsy I didn't want to press it the wrong way. After clearing a vent blockage, this was all I needed to do to get things working again.
Wow thank you, I just cleaned my filets and the furnace wouldn’t come back on and this video helped thank you! I’m in Canada and it’s winter so I REALLY thank you!
Great video! I was trying to find a blown fuse, but ended up discovering an open roll-out switch issue. After watching this video, I was able to locate four roll-out switches, but I am not sure if any of them were triggered though. I touched all of them with a screwdriver, and the system started working again. Now I am just in an eternal panic of wondering when the issue will return...
Best explanation on youtube as to what a roll out switch does. I was even saying it wrong calling it a roll out switch. That stool sample joke at the end was funny as heck because I had no idea where that joke was going! Lol.
Another good video,,, I had to replace a worn out furnace at the house we just purchased ,, was a lot Leary on the new ones as I had no experience or much knowledge about them ,, I’ve worked on a lot of the old type was a simple system,, but your videos have eased my mind,,, if it ever messes up I have a good idea on how to attack the problem thanks to you!
Bruh...THANK YOU! By far one of the best (informative!) videos I've came across, and leme tell u...I'm desperate. Ohio got rough winters and we can't afford a new furnace. Just replaced the old one so that's all the more we desperate. Mf was workin GOOD for that first year or two and then, all of a sudden. This video helped alote frfr thank you very much.
Hey Jay, you definitely brother! You saved my butt a couple of years ago with a problem I had with my furnace. If you have a moment please, I have another question on an issue I'm having with my Lennox furnace. Thermostat comes on for heat, inducer motor starts up and then about 5 seconds later, the furnace blower comes on. No flame. Just inducer motor and blower motor running simultaneously. Could flame roll out switch be the problem? If not, please steer me in the right direction!! Thank you and keep up these awesome videos!
Sorry to hear about the furnace troubles my friend! The first thing I would check is what error code the control board is putting out. What you explained sounds like one of the safety limits is open, maybe the high limit (overheating) or a pressure switch? If it was overheating, this video should help: ua-cam.com/video/pJzP1jzYPqg/v-deo.html And here is a good video for the pressure switch: ua-cam.com/video/Zax02itYHkU/v-deo.html It's possible that neither of those are your problem but if there is an error code, it should help steer you in the right direction.
@@WordofAdviceTV Hi Jay, thank you so much for responding and giving me a route to go. I know you are busy and get a lot of requests for assisting people with their issues. I love your channel. You explain everything in detail and photography is very clear. You are very blessed with the knowledge you have and to share it with the videos you make! Thank you again, Jay!!
Bro love it . I just subscribed n I'm a HVAC guy. Ya definitely know your stuff. Been few years since I been back into this. The light bulb is coming on. Sequence of events
Found one of the rollout switch's was tripped. First time I turned on the furnace this year. Flame is in cone shape. Until I started checking, I did not realize there was another filter inside the unit. It was really full of dust. I have a feeling the air flow through that almost fully clogged filter may have been causing to flame to blowback and trigger the rollback switch. I have always replaced the filter inside the house(intake).I will keep an eye on it. Thank you for this video.
Thanks this fixed my problem! I noticed something wrong when my thermostat screen went blank. After troubleshooting shooting and finding this video my thermostat came back on after I reset these switches. (I have a Lennox furnace)
you are awesome!! The video was incredible, saved us so much money!! Ended up being a clogged evaporator coil. cleaned it and replaced the flame roll-out switch. You are such a great teacher!!
Clogged evaporator coil should have caused the high limit switch to kick out.. The same as a plugged filter.. nothing to do with the flame roll out switch!
I have a rather unique problem that I was able to narrow down with your excellent guidance. I have an attic furnace. To get to it requires Houdini like contortionism for about thirty feet. I am seventy and am not feeling like it till I finish a few other projects around the house. I had a dirty filter and my wife closes all the doors to rooms that r not being used and I told her we r throttling the furnace. It's needs to breathe. It seem to shut off on the high limit. Turning the furnace breaker off resets it and it goes back on. The switch that is accessible on your unit that u use for demonstration purposes is probably in the attic. Inaccessible. So a very temporary work around is using one of those remote power receptacles to cycle the power and reset the hard shutdown. Does the large hallway inlet duct provide access to the furnace?
Thankyou thank you! I watched your vid to fix my mother’s furnace. Her Goodman furnace has bi-monthly problems. Pressure switch, Thermal couple cleaning, Thermostat(Honeywell) 4x’s so far in 3 years.
This helped a lot. My flames in the burners look normal. I have a high efficiency. The plastic view port around the cover that you mentioned did melt and come off. I noticed the area around the flame rollback sensor gets really hot. Could it be that the flames are rolling a little around the edges of the burners and heating the metal and that heat is transferring back to the rollout sensor? Should the area around the rollout sensor be cool to touch or is it normal for it to get really hot? Fyi resetting it gets it to run for about 2 minutes before it trips.
Unfortunately what you described sounds like a bad heat exchanger. Especially if that sight glass melted off. I would suggest getting a company to come out and do a combustion analysis test on your furnace. I'm pretty sure the carbon monoxide levels will be very high.
Is your Condense line kinked, that copper tube at top of furnace body? !!! Great Video, I learned a lot !!! .... Right now my Goodman works 9 out of 10 times (estm).... How can a repair man fix my furnace when it works most of the time??? It will work fine some time for 2 days, and then 1 time it won't .... It gets to the Light up the Inighter , lights it up nice and bright, but does not let gas valve come on.... so no flame. Not remember it works fine 9 out of 10 so to speak.... It is not the flame sensor, it is not the Flame roll out.... and the inducer fan is running fine, & out side the house lots of air flow out the exhaust ..... I did have a problem with water in one of the 3" Pvc one time... I'll go check that now...
Check for a clogged input or output pvc pipe also. Typically the input pipe could suck in a leaf or bugs and be clogging the shield where it attaches to the furnace.
My thermostat panel on main floor was blank and it turned out to be a tripped roll out breaker. No power at any thermostat connections but fuse was good. Carrier 58MVB installed 2009. Thanks for the video
Thank you! It is usually one of two problems: If the furnace is old, then likely the fan limit/cam stat is bad If it is a newer furnace, then likely the control board is bad.
@@WordofAdviceTV Thanks for replying, I've replaced the limit switch but no luck , the blower stays on. The board at this point shows two solid green lights and blinking orange one. My furnace is Rheem built on 1995. Would that indicates a bad board? Thanks.
Is your fan setting on the thermostat set to ON by chance? That would cause the fan to run non-stop. Other then that, If the fan is not turning off I would suspect that the board is bad. It's possible that the thermostat could be the problem too. To check, turn off power to furnace, label and take off all the thermostat wires from the control board, and turn power back on. If the fan stops with the thermostat wires off, then it may actually be the thermostat that is bad. If the fan keeps running then it's likely the board.
@@WordofAdviceTV Hello, You were right , It was the board, I got an upgraded replacement from Ebay and I removed the old one labeling each wire and then wired the new one and bang it worked perfectly. Thanks so much for your "word of advice" :)
In Canada, a company named Enercare, prices a furnace/Ac install on a 20 year contract at $57000 and that the price increases every year over a 20 year contract which can be bought out for about $20000. So buying a new furnace in the Toronto area of Canada may not be preferential to replacing the heat exchanger. Fascinated by the rollback switch. Didn't know about that. With a cracked heat exchanger I would expect when the blower comes on that it causes orange flame rollout. Carbon monoxide is not produced when the flame is blue. Might be a nice idea to put a CO interlock into the system so that the home owners know the heat exchanger is done and the flame rolling back orange.
I learned about these switches when I had condensation puddling in my pvc exhaust pipe. It wasn’t pitched back toward the furnace so the splashing water caused erratic flames.
hey doobby, curious about this as well! I have a similar problem but i'm not 100% sure that fixing the pitch will fix this issue. did you, in fact confirm that fixing the exhaust pitch was a solution?
That was was a good video on the Flame roll out switch, Watched a few and that 1 helped the most. When you showed the flame should be sucking in a cone shape, was good. stool sample was the best. I'll watch a few more. Thanks, Pat
Watched your video. Quick history, my indicator has blinked on three different occasions. I won't go into all the details other than to say that I've checked all of the devices and everything checks out good looking at voltage, resistance, and continuity. Long and short of it, I found that the 12 pin block is not making good contact. I have to apply side pressure to it and the light starts blinking slow, then fast and lights. As long as I hold side pressure, life is good. Have you ever seen this? Do you think the problem is on the pins on the card.controller board or with the 12 pin harness itself? Thought if you've seen this before, then you may have a direction to go. I'm hoping it's the harness as that's probably a lot cheaper than the $100 for the new controller. (Plus less wires to have to redo). Thanks in advance if you can help.
Word of advice tv. Great videos! Can you make a video on a furnace that is working properly, but won’t shut off once it hits desired temperature. Assume the thermostat is working ( Just bought a new one and now wether I use the old stat or new one the furnace won’t shut off) Thanks!
Thank you! Maybe I will make that video later, I appreciate the suggestion! When you say the furnace will not shut off, do the burners shut off but the blower fan keeps running? Or do the burners stay on as well? If the burners shut off but the fan stays on then there are two things I can think of right off the bat. Maybe your thermostat fan setting is set to ON instead of AUTO so the fan runs constantly? If your fan is set to AUTO, then I would say your fan relay on the control board is stuck closed and the board needs to be replaced.
Word of Advice TV Everything stays on, including the burners. I’m wondering if the circuit board needs to get replaced. Pretty sure I wired in the WiFi thermostat wrong the first time I installed it.
@@nickschill8521 Oh.. So everything stays on.. It's possible that something is not wired right. If you turn off power to the furnace, take off all the thermostat wires at the control board (label them so you know where they go) and turn the furnace back on - does the furnace still come on? If it does, then that board needs to be replaced. If it doesn't then perhaps something is wired wrong at the thermostat.
My flame roll out actually tripped because of my inducer motor. The first winter after we moved in to our home I heard a intermittent rubbing noise coming from the furnace. It turned out to be the inducer motor assembly. The house was a forecloser and had sat for long time, water somehow had entered the pvc exhaust tube, got into the bearing on the inducer motor and rust had caused the outer race to swell. Which caused the composite squirrel cage fan to spin off its axis and rub on the inside of the outer housing. I ordered the part but it would not get to me for 3 days, so I put the assembly back together, temp was around -4 deg at night. Sometime when I was at work on the third day the inducer motor was rubbing so much it stopped and tripped the roll out. I did not know this happen, got the new inducer assembly installed it and furnace did not come on, so I called the company I purchased the assembly from and talked to a tech. He informed me that it must have gotten so hot because of the seized inducer, he walked me through and helped me find the roll out, I reset the roll out and had heat.
Hi, I have watching your videos and learn a lot about furnace as a homeowner. I have a Bryan Furnace 355AAV036060FBSA. Recently two of burners only have a half of the flame comparing with first one but no flame rollout. The temperature could not reach the setting temperature 70F. What could be wrong? Thanks!
Good morning friend, I love your videos, thanks for taking the time to teach us to learn more, I would only like to ask if you can translate this video for us as you have done with the others, more thanks.
Oh, you are funny too and that is good man. This video clip is so important for Everybody to know and understand about Flame rollout and Carbon monoxide poison. It's very Critical to know. Thank you man and God bless you and your family 😇👍
Just repaired mine after doing rudimentary layman checks like inserting new filter, resetting breaker, etc. Watched your video and sure enough, I reset my two switches, cleaned off the bottom sensor part and the flames finally lit. Has been working/cycling fine for a few hours. The Goodman unit is 5(?) years old and hasn't ever stopped lighting so we'll see going forward. Of note, I often, weekly, leaf-blow my garage and there is a possibility that the powerful blower triggered it a week ago? But I've blown out the garage 50+ times in 5 years and never had such a failure. I'll see how the following 12 hours go. Note also, I opened up the bottom half (metal cover with portal window) that has exposed circuit board, checked the only fuse (3A) which was OK. The board was very dirty; not sure if it has a problem but I reattached the cover and the unit now works. Note also, I don't see ANY colored LED through the 1" portal window but honestly can't recall if I ever had a indicator light.
Hi Jay, thanks for sharing your video, it was very helpful. Question: Can a clogged condensate trap cause a flame rollout due to water not being able to drain out of the heater exchange? I did remove the condensate trap and cleaned it out and there was a lot of black chunks inside. Both inlets on top now flows to the outlet at the bottom. I sat in front of the furnace and observed and notice that the flame rollout happens when the flames come on.
Update: Furnace ran through the night w/o tripping the flame rollout switch. Another question the part where the flame goes into, there is a oval plate thats held together by 4 screws, what is that part called?
Funny you say that, my condensation line is leaking inside the unit of my Carrier heater and I am thinking I might have an obstruction in mine somewhere. I get the 3 shot/3 long light sequence and the flames shut off after 5 minutes or so. My fan for the exhaust (it is a high efficiency unit) sometimes is not running while the unit is running, but not sure if that is normal or not.
That may be an indication that the motor bearing is starting to go bad. That being said, it may still work for a long time. Another possibility is that it's just vibration from the fan. When it starts to squeel, try pushing on the inducer motor housing at various points and see if that changes or stops the noise. (the housing might be hot).
@@TheCupitorVeritatis You can try. I do that sometimes. I use this thing right here: Zoom Spout Oiler: amzn.to/2tctO1E I pull out the snout and put it where the shaft goes into the motor and oil it up there while spinning the motor by hand to try to "work it in there". With some inducer motors it's very hard to try and oil them without taking the inducer assembly out.
Word of Advice TV ...my friend noticed a sort of burning smell but no smoke...you think its the inducer motor? It does make the squeeling noise more when it gets hotter...thanks...im watching your other vids to find an answer...lol
@@TheCupitorVeritatis If the smell is coming from the inducer motor then it very well could be that the electrical windings inside the motor are starting to go bad. If you put your hand on the inducer motor (not the housing) and the motor is super hot then I would say the motor is dying on you and you should replace it.
⭐ Other videos you may find helpful:
Top 5 Furnace Problems:
ua-cam.com/video/T4IWtKy--Vk/v-deo.html
Furnace Sequence of Operation:
ua-cam.com/video/AQD_MedIklI/v-deo.html
Furnace Error Codes Explained:
ua-cam.com/video/J8Zegm4TClM/v-deo.html
How to Read Furnace Wiring Diagram:
ua-cam.com/video/2MSedAkirqw/v-deo.html
Best video! A guy came out and said I needed a whole new furnace… the roll out switch tripping was intermittent, so I knew it was a blockage somewhere. Went to the pipe on the roof clogged like cement with debris. Fixed furnace perfectly! Saved me 7 k
they always say that
I removed air filter just to test and it still got tripped. Blower motor still going, so not water in blower. Found my condensation line plugged from dirt in the utility sink. Cleaned that out, and now seems to be running fine. Thank you for posting the video. Saved me $$$!
Jay's videos are the go to place on UA-cam when you have a furnace problem. THANKS BIG MAN. Sorted it again!
I'm updating from my original post as my issue has been resolved and I credit your video for educating me. My heat (13 years old) would come on and then switch off and it turned out it was a lack of maintenance on my part. The technician cleaned the sensor and cleaned out the condensation line and it's worked perfectly ever since. I told the repair company what I thought it may be based on this video which cut down a lot of trouble shooting on their end and possibly saved me a lot of money because they could've very easily said I just need a new system. Thank you!!
I woke up at 4:00 am to the furnace blowing cold air. It took me 5 minutes to fix the problem after finding your video. Thank you so much!
Thank you for this video. Furnace was off since last night and it's 19 degrees with whipping wind. My minutes knowledge of furnaces reminded me that there are error codes. Got my six blinking red and google brought me straight to you. Was able to reset the switch and now I can brag for the rest of the week. Lol
Thanks, this video helped me solve my problem. Our thermostat was rebooting, but only during heating cycles. I couldn’t determine why and figured it must be a faulty thermostat. As it turns out, that was not the case. I ended up having a 33 code for an open flame roll out switch. Well, that would explain the resetting thermostat because the furnace was essentially shutting down and resetting itself…thus no power to the thermostat and the reboots. But, the problem was not actually flame roll out at all. There was no evidence of flame roll out, flame cones were fine, nothing blocked, filter is four weeks old, furnace is seven years and only 58,000 BTU. Turns out…it was the filter, but not because it was dirty…it was because it was too restrictive for air flow. The furnace would come on and there was not enough air flow to pull the heat from the heat exchanger fast enough resulting in the furnace heating up internally and tripping the roll out switch. The filter simply could not pass enough CFM. Took out the filter, problem solved. The filter was rated at MERV 11. I put in a new filter rated at MERV 8 and no more roll out switch tripping…and consequential potential damage to our furnace. High MERV may be good for air filtration…but not necessarily for your furnace.
Thanks for posting this comment! My scenario is very similar to yours so after quickly reading through your comment I tried running the furnace without a filter and sure enough it isn’t tripping the FRS anymore. Will bump down form a MERV 11 to a MERV 8 and see what happens.
Thanks for the comment, basically just had the same problem, was looking at the side of the filter MERV 11, and my old ones were 8, so popped an old one in that wasn’t too bad until I can get to the hardware store.
There’s another limit switch that is a one time use. I’m surprised it wasn’t tripping or played a part in this issue you had. It’s designed to trip and it’s in the airflow versus the rollout sensors. It must have a higher temperature rating that’s not being achieved in your scenario. Nice observation though and figuring it out on your own.
My furnace flame roll out switch tripped late Saturday night. No heat most of the night. Spend some time trying to figure out why nest stop working. Short story after couple of hours of good cold sleep, I end up finding this video early morning. Thanks to you it was a flame roll out switch tripped. I reset it and burner kicks in with nice cone shape flame as described in this video. I have a call out to furnace company to come out. At least house is started to warm until the technician comes later today. Thank you again and very helpful content.
Another thank you for all your great vids. After watching a few I was able to diagnose the issue I was having. The furnace shut down after running for about 5 minutes and only the inducer motor was coming on after I would restart it. My particular model has two of these switches. One in the flame box and one next to the inducer. I found the one at the inducer had tripped so I reset it and ran the system again. I noticed the exhaust duct was getting hotter than normal much faster than it should and tripped the switch again. I went through your diagnostic tips and found I had a broken vent on my roof. The rain cap was siting directly on top of the pipe blocking just enough flow to cause the problem. I made a temp fix to hold the vent cap in place and it's working as it should again. So, a prime tip for all you homeowners that have a roof replacement done during the summer, get up there an thoroughly inspect all your vents when the job is done. If I had noticed it then I could have had the roofing company install a new one on the spot instead of having to do it myself.
You are the only one who I found that solved my problem I have made 5 trips to the hardware store 3 to Walmart switched out my thermostat twice they sold me the wrong one I finally got it wired back up then exactly like you showed my error code flashed 6 times and now after watching this video I can go home tonight even though it's 30 degrees I can hopefully have it up and running by tomorrow thanks for your video I rent so instead of my landlord taking his time getting someone out there to fix it I'll do it myself and learn what to troubleshoot by your channel thanks 👍
This video quite literally saved our house last night. -55 in Montana last night 🥶 thank you!!
Just moved from Montana to Arizona last September. Couldn't stand the winters anymore!
-55? Best solution would be to move SOUTH, as far as you can.
Awesome video, man I'm finally starting to get the confidence to get my license and start running my own side jobs thanks to everything that I have been learning with you. THANK YOU!
I enjoy watching and learning, I just completed HVAC school in September 2018 - I’m more interested in Commercial not so much residential. I view most of your videos. Thanks a lot from Central California.
Hey Gilles! Thanks for watching my videos. Commercial brings in more profit so more power to you man :) Great career choice and good luck! I'm sure you will do good.
Thank you for this video, I paid way too much for a new ignitor, and pressure switches and it was the flame roll out switch tripped!
Fixed my furnace in like 10 seconds! I got heat again!!!!! Thanks SO Much. You saved me $$$$$$$$
Thank you so much. Had a blockage in the burner assembly right after the gas jets. Cleared it out no no more problem and the furnace is running better then when I moved in.
Gosh, what kind of blockage would get in place right after the jets? That’s a little scary.
Very efficient video. I’m a Journeyman electrician, with limited HVAC experience. Thanks for the concise information. I wanted to understand what flameout was. I’ve looked at hundreds of sensors, but I’ve never understood if they were photo eyes, heat sensors, infrared, etc. Thanks. 👍
Thank you great video. Found the bad rollout switch by jumping the connectors. Furnace worked. Then saw the backdraft on the burners. So, it appears bad heat exchanger. Not surprising since the furnace is 27 years old. Going to call the furnace guys tomorrow and see what they say. But I'm expecting the worse (new furnace), but hoping for the best (some other issue that won't cost as much). You video has prepared me!!! :)
Thank you so much for your amazing troubleshooting videos on a furnace. You just saved me $433.45 in parts and labor.
Our Goodman furnace just stopped working and my Nest thermostat wasn't getting power. Bad control board! I bought one for $165 and if I had someone come out they quoted me $265 for the part and $300 in labor as they knew it was getting near the freezing mark in the Portland area. Thank you so much. It's so nice to walk around the house when it isn't 52° inside and 41° outside.
I'll really appreciate your videos and they're very informative.
My furnace is driving me crazy, and it cuts out very inconsistent interval. I called 3 different repair company came out. They did for 10-15 minutes, and it always runs fine for that time when they're there. Then the issue comes back again and again. Total, I had them came out 6 times, $80-$100 per visit. Finally, I found out what they did was exactly what you explained here to clean the flame sensor. (Perhaps, I should have cleaned it with $100 bill instead)
Since I watched lot of your videos and got knowledges about how it works. I'm tire of cleaning the flame sensor and sometimes it works for whole day or two, then it came back again. I went ahead and ordered genuine part twice. It works for a day or two and again, and thought I nailed it, but the flame doesn't stay on for minute or so. Watched your 10 most issues video and tried to eliminate one at a time ... seems to be clueless of what's going on right now. I think I will go ahead to replace the thermostat soon. Anything you could share or I have missed? Already spent almost $600 repair for no part replacement from 3 companies ... Otherwise, I would have replaced new one in the first place.
Thanks for this! I had a Payne high efficiency furnace installed in 2008. 5 years later, in 2013, the #33 code rollout kept coming on. It starts up and runs fine, and then sometime in the night, the flame is shut off and the fan blows cold air continuously until you reset the rollout switch. As the story was told..., the heat exchangers were coated in polypropylene, and that eventually deteriorates and was clogging the heat exchanger. So after a considerable fight and almost legal battle with the Payne/Bryant/Carrier distributor and company (and shyster Carrier serviceman who tried to intimidate me into paying for the parts too), I was able to hold them to their warranty promise of paying for the parts (I paid labor and their multiple transportation trips). Supposedly there was a class action suit on the failing heat exchangers, but I could never figure out if that were true or not... Anyway, I suspect I got the exact same heat exchanger as a replacement, because it is now 2021, and the code is happening again. I watched all your videos and have done all the diagnostics, and it appears it's doing the exact same thing as in 2013. Do you have any experience or wisdom on this problem with Payne. And secondly, can you recommend a furnace that is actually worth paying for? Thanks for all your awesome videos!
Take a level and make sure the body of the furnace is tilted forward slightly. If a high efficiency furnace is tilted level or backward, you'll have poor flow out of the secondary heat exchanger. This will form a stagnant pool leading to extensive corrosion. That's how it always happens. I prefer the type of furnace in this video. The standard efficiency furnaces almost never generate service calls. You lose a few percent worth of fuel, but I prefer for my heat to work reliably. Most issues are from a dirty flame sensor from not being cleaned for years or a stat related issue. The Trane two stage 80% furnace from the 90s are some of the best around. They don't make them like that anymore.
Thanks so much you saved us! Going into the 2nd arctic freeze in a few weeks when the rollout switch tripped and the blower motor wouldn't shutoff. I watched your video and fixed it myself till the tech can get here to diagnose the cause. Warming back up in Buffalo, NY
I like that you explain details in a calm pace. Not too fast, not too slow.
Jay, your the best! I was getting a error code 33 on high efficiency carrier ..turned out it was the roll out switch..thx to your many informative podcast. Many blessings to you. I reset it and unit came in flames are cone shaped looking great. Again a million thanks 😊
Well a first for me! My roll out switch tripped and after a lot of trying , I realized that when I separated the flue that goes to the roof to clean it of some refuse, I didn’t get it back on exactly right. I had just replaced the flame sensor and cleaned the flue and then when trying to start furnace it kept interrupting the ignition cycle. Long story but the pressure switch code was on and I realized the induced draft was slightly pulling thru the inside of the cabinet and causing a slight temp increase which was shutting down the roll out switch. We took the flue off and replaced it back in and voila! The furnace works great now! Wow I learned something really valuable here
Great video. My problem was a plugged condensation line, technician drained a gallon of water out of my furnace. Glad it wasn't more serious.
Inadequate combustion air, or a house that is running negative pressure, due to exhaust fans, cloths dryer etc can cause rollout at the furnace, because the makeup air for the items mention above will be drawn from the furnace flue, which will cause a backdraft and flame rollout. Good video.
This video really helped out! I didn’t know about the button reset on the sensor, I just clicked it and it made “click” on one of the two. I turned the heat off before doing that. Turned the heat back on and now it’s working 🔥
I have a Rheem, it was installed when I purchased my home in 2019. This was a whole new setup too
*Update - It turned on a for few minutes but it turned back off. I’m replacing it anyways but I’m waiting on Amazon to bring it today. It worked temporarily but not for long. But great content and knowledgeable information! I’m subscribing
@@DjSonic_Chicago- so was the switch bad or is there an underlying problem?
@ it was the switch, I know the manufacturer request for all OEM parts but I couldn’t find it sooner than I needed so I ended ordering it on Amazon and it got here the next day. Installed it and it’s been working since I commented on here. No issue whatsoever
Woke up to the house at 55 and your video did the trick. Thank you
Jay, super useful video. You speak very clearly so it's a great gift of teaching. I found my issue as per your other video on 10 reasons why blower kept running. My switch was tripped while I was not home. So now I have to get ready to open my wallet and replace my old furnace. Thank you!
Excellent description regarding the function of the flame roll out switch and the suggested course of action to resolve. Keep up the very informative videos they have helped to give me a better understanding of what to look for for in residential systems. I'm in my 4th year of HVAC and your videos have been a great help !
Happy to hear you find my videos helpful! Thank you and good luck in your career! It's a good choice :)
One of your videos allowed me to bring heat back into my home today before calling a technician thank you so much
Great...
It's a holiday weekend, subzero degrees weather and my house is getting colder and colder by the minute. 🙃
Love it.
Hey love your clear and calm explanations! May I ask a couple questions:
1)
Why is it that gas dryers (at least the one I have which I opened up because it broke), don’t have flame rollout switches? Isn’t that weird? Could it be something is taking the place of it that I didn’t recognize - or the design itself of the dryer in some way makes it a non issue?
2)
You know how a dryer has a cycling thermostat/low limit thermostat/regulating thermostat/ - what does a furnace have that’s analogous to that?
3)
I heard furnaces don’t have “low limit switches”. Why is that?! Thanks !
This video was super helpful. Unfortunately we need a new unit 😢
Thanks for showing how to press the tab to reset the switch! It seemed so flimsy I didn't want to press it the wrong way. After clearing a vent blockage, this was all I needed to do to get things working again.
Wow thank you, I just cleaned my filets and the furnace wouldn’t come back on and this video helped thank you! I’m in Canada and it’s winter so I REALLY thank you!
Great video! I was trying to find a blown fuse, but ended up discovering an open roll-out switch issue. After watching this video, I was able to locate four roll-out switches, but I am not sure if any of them were triggered though. I touched all of them with a screwdriver, and the system started working again. Now I am just in an eternal panic of wondering when the issue will return...
Such a great explanation video .Thank you. Hoping I just have a clog somewhere and that'll fix it. 🤞🏼
Thank you so much for your amazing troubleshooting videos on a furnace. It worked! You just saved our time and $$$.
Best explanation on youtube as to what a roll out switch does. I was even saying it wrong calling it a roll out switch. That stool sample joke at the end was funny as heck because I had no idea where that joke was going! Lol.
My brother in laws furnace roll out switch at the flu compartment was going out. Came here to kill my doubt . Thanks for the great video.
Another good video,,, I had to replace a worn out furnace at the house we just purchased ,, was a lot Leary on the new ones as I had no experience or much knowledge about them ,, I’ve worked on a lot of the old type was a simple system,, but your videos have eased my mind,,, if it ever messes up I have a good idea on how to attack the problem thanks to you!
Glad to hear the videos are helpful! Thank you for watching and leaving a comment!
Bruh...THANK YOU! By far one of the best (informative!) videos I've came across, and leme tell u...I'm desperate. Ohio got rough winters and we can't afford a new furnace. Just replaced the old one so that's all the more we desperate. Mf was workin GOOD for that first year or two and then, all of a sudden. This video helped alote frfr thank you very much.
thuggishruggish216 I know what you mean, I’m from Ohio and winter hear is a rough beast at times,,this info is great for repairs and testing
Hey Jay, you definitely brother! You saved my butt a couple of years ago with a problem I had with my furnace. If you have a moment please, I have another question on an issue I'm having with my Lennox furnace. Thermostat comes on for heat, inducer motor starts up and then about 5 seconds later, the furnace blower comes on. No flame. Just inducer motor and blower motor running simultaneously. Could flame roll out switch be the problem? If not, please steer me in the right direction!! Thank you and keep up these awesome videos!
Sorry to hear about the furnace troubles my friend! The first thing I would check is what error code the control board is putting out. What you explained sounds like one of the safety limits is open, maybe the high limit (overheating) or a pressure switch? If it was overheating, this video should help: ua-cam.com/video/pJzP1jzYPqg/v-deo.html And here is a good video for the pressure switch: ua-cam.com/video/Zax02itYHkU/v-deo.html
It's possible that neither of those are your problem but if there is an error code, it should help steer you in the right direction.
@@WordofAdviceTV Hi Jay, thank you so much for responding and giving me a route to go. I know you are busy and get a lot of requests for assisting people with their issues. I love your channel. You explain everything in detail and photography is very clear. You are very blessed with the knowledge you have and to share it with the videos you make! Thank you again, Jay!!
@@garyp9906 You're very welcome! I hope you will be able to find and fix the problem. God bless you and yours, stay warm!
Bro love it . I just subscribed n I'm a HVAC guy. Ya definitely know your stuff. Been few years since I been back into this. The light bulb is coming on. Sequence of events
You litterally just saved me $1000 THANK YOU!!
Found one of the rollout switch's was tripped. First time I turned on the furnace this year. Flame is in cone shape. Until I started checking, I did not realize there was another filter inside the unit. It was really full of dust. I have a feeling the air flow through that almost fully clogged filter may have been causing to flame to blowback and trigger the rollback switch. I have always replaced the filter inside the house(intake).I will keep an eye on it. Thank you for this video.
Where is the other filter in the unit?
Very helpful thank you! My furnace has 5 of them and it has been a nightmare to say the least
Thanks this fixed my problem! I noticed something wrong when my thermostat screen went blank. After troubleshooting shooting and finding this video my thermostat came back on after I reset these switches. (I have a Lennox furnace)
You're welcome! Glad to hear you were able to track it down. Stay warm!
Thank you for taking the time to explain this to us! Realized what was wrong with my furnace. Keep up the good work!
I like this guys videos they are very instructive. Thank you!
you are awesome!! The video was incredible, saved us so much money!! Ended up being a clogged evaporator coil. cleaned it and replaced the flame roll-out switch. You are such a great teacher!!
Glad to hear you were able to get it fixed! :)
Clogged evaporator coil should have caused the high limit switch to kick out.. The same as a plugged filter.. nothing to do with the flame roll out switch!
Thanks for the great videos you saved my furnace for a second time.
I have a rather unique problem that I was able to narrow down with your excellent guidance. I have an attic furnace. To get to it requires Houdini like contortionism for about thirty feet. I am seventy and am not feeling like it till I finish a few other projects around the house. I had a dirty filter and my wife closes all the doors to rooms that r not being used and I told her we r throttling the furnace. It's needs to breathe. It seem to shut off on the high limit. Turning the furnace breaker off resets it and it goes back on. The switch that is accessible on your unit that u use for demonstration purposes is probably in the attic. Inaccessible. So a very temporary work around is using one of those remote power receptacles to cycle the power and reset the hard shutdown. Does the large hallway inlet duct provide access to the furnace?
and I knew exactly where that joke was going but couldn't stop watching. Thanks for the information
thank's for your help. my intake and exhaust get ice and snow inside and one of my switches tripped. saved me alot of money.
Thank you! This worked and saved me a visit from a technician!
I dont know how to thank you
You are life saver man
Glad I could help! :) Stay warm!
Thankyou thank you! I watched your vid to fix my mother’s furnace. Her Goodman furnace has bi-monthly problems. Pressure switch, Thermal couple cleaning, Thermostat(Honeywell) 4x’s so far in 3 years.
This helped a lot. My flames in the burners look normal. I have a high efficiency. The plastic view port around the cover that you mentioned did melt and come off. I noticed the area around the flame rollback sensor gets really hot. Could it be that the flames are rolling a little around the edges of the burners and heating the metal and that heat is transferring back to the rollout sensor? Should the area around the rollout sensor be cool to touch or is it normal for it to get really hot? Fyi resetting it gets it to run for about 2 minutes before it trips.
Unfortunately what you described sounds like a bad heat exchanger. Especially if that sight glass melted off. I would suggest getting a company to come out and do a combustion analysis test on your furnace. I'm pretty sure the carbon monoxide levels will be very high.
Thank you. Agreed, I'm pretty good at DIY, but this looks like it is one of those issues where you want a professional to fix it.
minus the corny joke at the end your video was truly professional presented thanks for posting your knowledge
Is your Condense line kinked, that copper tube at top of furnace body? !!! Great Video, I learned a lot !!! .... Right now my Goodman works 9 out of 10 times (estm).... How can a repair man fix my furnace when it works most of the time??? It will work fine some time for 2 days, and then 1 time it won't .... It gets to the Light up the Inighter , lights it up nice and bright, but does not let gas valve come on.... so no flame. Not remember it works fine 9 out of 10 so to speak.... It is not the flame sensor, it is not the Flame roll out.... and the inducer fan is running fine, & out side the house lots of air flow out the exhaust ..... I did have a problem with water in one of the 3" Pvc one time... I'll go check that now...
Check for a clogged input or output pvc pipe also. Typically the input pipe could suck in a leaf or bugs and be clogging the shield where it attaches to the furnace.
Could anyone tell me how to do this?
My thermostat panel on main floor was blank and it turned out to be a tripped roll out breaker. No power at any thermostat connections but fuse was good. Carrier 58MVB installed 2009. Thanks for the video
that was really great job and it helped me get my furnace working this am
Your the goat. Fixed my problem in seconds
Great video, Please make one for most common unanswered issue that when furnace heats the house the blower fan would not turn off and blowing cold air
Thank you! It is usually one of two problems:
If the furnace is old, then likely the fan limit/cam stat is bad
If it is a newer furnace, then likely the control board is bad.
@@WordofAdviceTV Thanks for replying, I've replaced the limit switch but no luck , the blower stays on. The board at this point shows two solid green lights and blinking orange one. My furnace is Rheem built on 1995. Would that indicates a bad board? Thanks.
Is your fan setting on the thermostat set to ON by chance? That would cause the fan to run non-stop. Other then that, If the fan is not turning off I would suspect that the board is bad. It's possible that the thermostat could be the problem too. To check, turn off power to furnace, label and take off all the thermostat wires from the control board, and turn power back on. If the fan stops with the thermostat wires off, then it may actually be the thermostat that is bad. If the fan keeps running then it's likely the board.
@@WordofAdviceTV Hello, You were right , It was the board, I got an upgraded replacement from Ebay and I removed the old one labeling each wire and then wired the new one and bang it worked perfectly. Thanks so much for your "word of advice" :)
@@hosamelsayed1791 Happy to hear you got it going! :) Stay warm!
Crystal clear video. Nice job.
This video put me on the right track thank you!!!!
Thanks so much! This info saved me on a very cold day 👍
Excellent video. I've got a stool sample like that too!
Thanks! Saved me a service call and a very cold day
Totally awesome. That was so easy. Code 6 “open rollout or fuse”. Ty so much.👍
Thanks man for the advice. Helped me validate what my tech told me
Very good and clear video. Thank you. 🤙🏽
Thank you much for the info. My rollout switch was tripped!
In Canada, a company named Enercare, prices a furnace/Ac install on a 20 year contract at $57000 and that the price increases every year over a 20 year contract which can be bought out for about $20000. So buying a new furnace in the Toronto area of Canada may not be preferential to replacing the heat exchanger. Fascinated by the rollback switch. Didn't know about that. With a cracked heat exchanger I would expect when the blower comes on that it causes orange flame rollout. Carbon monoxide is not produced when the flame is blue. Might be a nice idea to put a CO interlock into the system so that the home owners know the heat exchanger is done and the flame rolling back orange.
Excellent explanation. Helped me lots! thanks!
another great video Jay, thanks for all your wonderful work!!!
Art
I learned about these switches when I had condensation puddling in my pvc exhaust pipe. It wasn’t pitched back toward the furnace so the splashing water caused erratic flames.
I'm having rol out switch problems myself. So your problem was that there wasn't enough 'pitch differential' if you will. On you exhaust pvc pipe?
hey doobby, curious about this as well! I have a similar problem but i'm not 100% sure that fixing the pitch will fix this issue. did you, in fact confirm that fixing the exhaust pitch was a solution?
Thank you for your video. You explain things well.
Thank you for the info! I could smell the CO2 and now I know why. ✌🏼
That was was a good video on the Flame roll out switch, Watched a few and that 1 helped the most. When you showed the flame should be sucking in a cone shape, was good. stool sample was the best. I'll watch a few more. Thanks, Pat
I love your stool sample 😁
Great video.
Watched your video. Quick history, my indicator has blinked on three different occasions. I won't go into all the details other than to say that I've checked all of the devices and everything checks out good looking at voltage, resistance, and continuity. Long and short of it, I found that the 12 pin block is not making good contact. I have to apply side pressure to it and the light starts blinking slow, then fast and lights. As long as I hold side pressure, life is good. Have you ever seen this? Do you think the problem is on the pins on the card.controller board or with the 12 pin harness itself? Thought if you've seen this before, then you may have a direction to go. I'm hoping it's the harness as that's probably a lot cheaper than the $100 for the new controller. (Plus less wires to have to redo). Thanks in advance if you can help.
Word of advice tv. Great videos! Can you make a video on a furnace that is working properly, but won’t shut off once it hits desired temperature. Assume the thermostat is working ( Just bought a new one and now wether I use the old stat or new one the furnace won’t shut off)
Thanks!
Thank you! Maybe I will make that video later, I appreciate the suggestion! When you say the furnace will not shut off, do the burners shut off but the blower fan keeps running? Or do the burners stay on as well?
If the burners shut off but the fan stays on then there are two things I can think of right off the bat. Maybe your thermostat fan setting is set to ON instead of AUTO so the fan runs constantly? If your fan is set to AUTO, then I would say your fan relay on the control board is stuck closed and the board needs to be replaced.
Word of Advice TV Everything stays on, including the burners. I’m wondering if the circuit board needs to get replaced. Pretty sure I wired in the WiFi thermostat wrong the first time I installed it.
@@nickschill8521 Oh.. So everything stays on.. It's possible that something is not wired right. If you turn off power to the furnace, take off all the thermostat wires at the control board (label them so you know where they go) and turn the furnace back on - does the furnace still come on? If it does, then that board needs to be replaced. If it doesn't then perhaps something is wired wrong at the thermostat.
Hi Nick, I had the same issue and it was the control board.
My flame roll out actually tripped because of my inducer motor. The first winter after we moved in to our home I heard a intermittent rubbing noise coming from the furnace. It turned out to be the inducer motor assembly. The house was a forecloser and had sat for long time, water somehow had entered the pvc exhaust tube, got into the bearing on the inducer motor and rust had caused the outer race to swell. Which caused the composite squirrel cage fan to spin off its axis and rub on the inside of the outer housing. I ordered the part but it would not get to me for 3 days, so I put the assembly back together, temp was around -4 deg at night. Sometime when I was at work on the third day the inducer motor was rubbing so much it stopped and tripped the roll out. I did not know this happen, got the new inducer assembly installed it and furnace did not come on, so I called the company I purchased the assembly from and talked to a tech. He informed me that it must have gotten so hot because of the seized inducer, he walked me through and helped me find the roll out, I reset the roll out and had heat.
Hi, I have watching your videos and learn a lot about furnace as a homeowner. I have a Bryan Furnace 355AAV036060FBSA. Recently two of burners only have a half of the flame comparing with first one but no flame rollout. The temperature could not reach the setting temperature 70F. What could be wrong? Thanks!
Good morning friend, I love your videos, thanks for taking the time to teach us to learn more, I would only like to ask if you can translate this video for us as you have done with the others, more thanks.
Thank you! No problem, I will add this video to the list of videos to be translated. 👍
Thanks for this video! Resetting the switch worked perfectly.
Oh, you are funny too and that is good man. This video clip is so important for Everybody to know and understand about Flame rollout and Carbon monoxide poison. It's very Critical to know. Thank you man and God bless you and your family 😇👍
You're most welcome! Thank you for watching and leaving a comment! May God bless you and family as well, stay warm!
Just repaired mine after doing rudimentary layman checks like inserting new filter, resetting breaker, etc. Watched your video and sure enough, I reset my two switches, cleaned off the bottom sensor part and the flames finally lit. Has been working/cycling fine for a few hours.
The Goodman unit is 5(?) years old and hasn't ever stopped lighting so we'll see going forward.
Of note, I often, weekly, leaf-blow my garage and there is a possibility that the powerful blower triggered it a week ago? But I've blown out the garage 50+ times in 5 years and never had such a failure.
I'll see how the following 12 hours go.
Note also, I opened up the bottom half (metal cover with portal window) that has exposed circuit board, checked the only fuse (3A) which was OK. The board was very dirty; not sure if it has a problem but I reattached the cover and the unit now works. Note also, I don't see ANY colored LED through the 1" portal window but honestly can't recall if I ever had a indicator light.
@@dcrook232323 you sound like a tech yourself Man. That's Great 👍
EXCELLENT explanation! THANK YOU!!! (Nice stool sample:-))
Thank you for this quick easy fix!!!
you saved me a big bill.thank you
Great video! Appreciate the thorough explanation and causes! Liked and Fav'd!!
Do some furnaces use a thermistor for a flame rollout switch rather than a bi-metal contact switch?
Hi Jay, thanks for sharing your video, it was very helpful. Question: Can a clogged condensate trap cause a flame rollout due to water not being able to drain out of the heater exchange? I did remove the condensate trap and cleaned it out and there was a lot of black chunks inside. Both inlets on top now flows to the outlet at the bottom. I sat in front of the furnace and observed and notice that the flame rollout happens when the flames come on.
Update: Furnace ran through the night w/o tripping the flame rollout switch. Another question the part where the flame goes into, there is a oval plate thats held together by 4 screws, what is that part called?
Funny you say that, my condensation line is leaking inside the unit of my Carrier heater and I am thinking I might have an obstruction in mine somewhere. I get the 3 shot/3 long light sequence and the flames shut off after 5 minutes or so. My fan for the exhaust (it is a high efficiency unit) sometimes is not running while the unit is running, but not sure if that is normal or not.
I have quick question...what if my inducer motor nakes weird squeeling noises after a few minutes of the heating sequence? Thanks...great vid...
That may be an indication that the motor bearing is starting to go bad. That being said, it may still work for a long time. Another possibility is that it's just vibration from the fan. When it starts to squeel, try pushing on the inducer motor housing at various points and see if that changes or stops the noise. (the housing might be hot).
Word of Advice TV...thanks for responding...wish you were in the Chicagoland area...so can I grease this thing?
@@TheCupitorVeritatis You can try. I do that sometimes. I use this thing right here:
Zoom Spout Oiler: amzn.to/2tctO1E
I pull out the snout and put it where the shaft goes into the motor and oil it up there while spinning the motor by hand to try to "work it in there". With some inducer motors it's very hard to try and oil them without taking the inducer assembly out.
Word of Advice TV ...my friend noticed a sort of burning smell but no smoke...you think its the inducer motor? It does make the squeeling noise more when it gets hotter...thanks...im watching your other vids to find an answer...lol
@@TheCupitorVeritatis If the smell is coming from the inducer motor then it very well could be that the electrical windings inside the motor are starting to go bad. If you put your hand on the inducer motor (not the housing) and the motor is super hot then I would say the motor is dying on you and you should replace it.