Timing Belt Change Removal and Installation on Mitsubishi Endeavor
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- Опубліковано 4 лют 2016
- This video was made to show to the viewer how I changed the Timing Belt on a Mitsubishi Endeavor 2004 with a 6G75 engine (V6 3.8L ci 3797cc MFI GAS SOHC).
The engine may be similar with:
2003-Present? Mitsubishi Pajero (aka Montero / Shogun)
2004-2011 Mitsubishi Endeavor
2004-2009 Mitsubishi Galant
2005-2008 Mitsubishi 380
2006-2012 Mitsubishi Eclipse
All new replacement spare parts used were all cheap good quality aftermarket parts!!! Contrary to what “others” says, all spare parts performed very well on my vehicle without any problem.
I’m not an ASE Mechanic, only a D.I.Y.’er, so sorry, I cannot answer any of your technical questions. But, ‘If you’ve seen how one was done, then you can definitely do one …’ and the video will speak for itself.
My total work hours is about 3-4 hrs. that is excluding the video taking and several break times.
Some scenes in the video were re-arranged to show or emphasize a procedure that I should have followed to make my job easier and faster. A word of caution!!! Some parts of the video are shaky and may cause dizziness to some people.
This is an interactive video. Pause it if you want to read the annotations. This was also designed to be a ‘Hearing Impaired’ friendly video.
This video was made for entertainment only. If you follow the procedures that I did on your vehicle, do it at your own risk and I disclaim any and all liabilities for damages, losses, or injuries that you may incur in connection with your repairs.
If you like the video, please don't forget to give it a thumb-up and subscribe.
A newer edited version of this video will be seen at • Timing Belt Change Mit...
Enjoy D.I.Y.’ing.
All background music came from UA-cam Audio Library, Many thanks to all the Musicians and Artists.
Extinction Level Event by Jingle Punks
A Good Day on the African Planes by Doug Maxwell/Media Right Productions
A Long Cold by Riot
About That Oldie by Vibe Tracks
Bubblegum Ballgame by JR Tundra
Coffee Stains by Riot
End of Summer by The 126ers
Good Starts by Jingle Punks
Grange Party by Huma-Huma
Hills Behind by Silent Partner
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Humidity by Silent Partner
Light the Torch by Silent Partner
Oh My Love by Everet Almond
Lucky Day by Jingle Punks - Авто та транспорт
Just paid my mechanic $350 to do the belt, tensioner, and waterpump. I'm glad I did. Good work man, this seems tedious.
This mechanic is a genius. Working on my Jaguars is a LOT easier. I will cancel my purchase of a 1998 Chrysler Sebring with 96000 miles and never had timing belt changed..
No way possible I could have changed the tensioner and re-aligned everything without this video... Great Job!! Thanks!!
How did you know your tensioner was bad
Great job in explaining and showing the whole timing belt replacement. It’s a lot of work.
I had this done by Mitsubishi on my 2004 Mitsubishi Endeavor with 120K miles Around 2014 . At the time I heard a lot of noise coming from the engine.
The Mitsubishi service center is 3 blocks from my house. I just dropped it off and they called me about it and said it was the Belt tensioner became loose and making lot of noise. They told me I needed the tensioner replaced. They asked if I wanted the timing belt replaced since they were in there already I said yes replace the belt too. Plus they did a tuneup 4 plugs.
That bill was around $800.00. I needed it done I didn’t have another car to drive. I had the car back the next day. The service person told me if I would’ve kept driving the truck that way I would’ve blown the engine. The belt would’ve skipped a few teeth and I would need a new engine or take it to the junk yard.
Best endeavor timing belt video on youtube!!! Good job!! Thanks!!
This has to be the best DIY video I have seen. Nicely described, good home-made tools. Really a spectacular piece of work.
I appreciate your time and effort to make this video. Thanks so much, great work
without a doubt one of the best videos I ever seen on UA-cam well explained everything simple yet very clear and well performed,thanks a lot.keep them coming.
Great video, thank you so much for taking the time to demonstrate the process and at the same time show us your tricks of the trade. I always appreciate those experienced mechanic tips.
Best video on Mitsubishi 3.8L timing belt, period!!!
I had no idea changing the timing belt on this vehicle is so insanely involved and challenging! Hats off to you!! 👍🏼👍🏼
Made just in time, I just bought a Endeavor that needed a timing belt (Tensioner is failed and rattling, it's now sitting) Mine wasn't as simple as yours, the timing gear stuck to the harmonic balancer, had to carefully knock that free, and a lot of other components were rusted on. The beast had 175k miles and the previous owner bought it with 84k, and never did a timing belt. But much thanks to your video for making it doable for me. I am hoping I get another 100k out of this Mits.
Great video probably 1 of the best explained I've seen so far
So finally got around to doing this. Changed the water pump,crank position sensor and timing belt. No check engine light runs good and I'm going to get it reregistered this week thanks man your vid is definitely the definitive vid on this procedure! Saved me thousands of dollars for sure.
Awesome video had to watch a few boring long winded ones before finding this one. Today is the last day of 2017 where I am and I've got 1 week to fix my car, water pump and belts before heading back to work, Cheers and happy new year.
Well done video! Best I seen in a while!
Followed this video step by step and just changed my very first timing belt this past weekend! Thank you so much Nunki Rider!
d:)b
I inherited a 2004 Endeavor from my grandparents when they passed away, and am loathe to give it up for sentimental reasons.
I have the knocking noise issue noted below, and have been trying to determine the source. Thanks to you, I may have discovered it.
Excellent video/tutorial! Keep up the good work 👍🏼
Awesome video. Thanks a lot! This definitely helped my confidence in replacing my timing belt.
Best one I've seen yet thank you
Thanks great video, right cam jumped off wire tie down . Backed 4 teeth off TDC on the crank shaft, spun cam sprocket 360 degrees clockwise to TDC worked great thanks again.
great video , i just hope youtubers showing diy would include the size of sockets they use it would be so much easier. thanks a million
Really good and thorough tutorial!
Well done and well shown. Thank you.
Nice work. This video works for some of Hyundai/Kia vehicles using the same engine (V6 Delta) from this era. XG, Santa Fe, Amanti & minivan.
Quite a bit of work! I looks like my 2005 Endeavor needs it.
Thanks so much for this video! After watching it I felt it best left to the professionals! :-)
My friend you gave a show now this is congratulations I have no doubt a beautiful tutorial will win as it is one more subscriber
Here and Brazil ...!!!!Show Top!!!
I have watched hundreds of repair videos on UA-cam and this is the best most thorough and helpful,.....what other adjectives can I give.... thank you is probably the best.
Cheers to Jesus for you from Alaska.
Thank you for watching the video....:)
Nicely done, very detailed.
Thank you very much for the detailed explanation. It helped me a lot.
pretty ingenious video. good work.
First Class bud! Thank you.
nice work man, keep them caming
Fantastic video! Thanks very much! Subscribed.
Perfect fit d.i.y nut is the thick white plastic nut that screws onto the toilet tank. Fits the bolt and into that space absolutely perfectly.
Fantastic job!
Dude I can't thank you enough for this video! I used it as my guide to change my timing belt for a 2004 mitsubishi endeavor. It went flawless! Thanks again!
Wow, well done! There's not too many videos of this job on UA-cam as most don't have the skills or stomach for it. I guess what scares most is if their pulleys / harmonic balancer are seized on. Then the job goes to a new level of difficult. Thanks for doing this!
Blue Rage what would you do then if the harmonic balancer is seized?
Manny Reyes At the dealership where I worked they had every kind of harmonic balancer puller imaginable. You can get a good one from OTC here: www.summitracing.com/parts/otc-4531
Manny Reyes - Try to spray it with PB Blaster or any penetrating oil as seen in the video....wait for an hour before you try and wiggle it out.
Thank you. Helps so much.
I was finally able to get it close but not close enough, I got it to 4.21. I will have to retry this evening. Funny thing however. The pin spins freely like yours does
great video!
THANKYOU THIS IS A VERY GOOD PRESANTATION WELL DONE ,wish you were my nieghbour lol
So intense at first. I thought I was in a thriller lol
very good congrats
Perfect. Thanks!
Very nice
ok ehhh wow😁 thank eclipse 2001 same same thank !! merci in french! 🙂very very good job 10/10
@Stephane Auger - Thank you too for watching the video!!!
@@nunkirider8738 again and again first time import car...my taming belt is loose on the water pump...to tide or to loose...everthing is new..wierd
@@stephaneauger1036 May I ask if you did a “timing belt change” cause if you did, you might have inverted the direction of the rotation sequence of your timing belt marks when you installed the timing belt. Thank you for watching the video.
came here looking for tips for getting to the top nut for the lower timing cover. can't get to it due to metal thing in the way. just changing the crank sensor though so trying to take a little apart as possible.
What? You didn’t replace the water pump with it?
Everytime I set the tension and torque the bolt I can spin the pin freely, but once I let it sit there for like 15 seconds the pin does not spin anymore
Great Video! Just out of curiosity, do you see any problem with using snap ring pliers to help tighten the Tensioner Pulley as opposed to the special tool at 15:10 ? Just saw another video of something using them along with a wrench to get the desired tension.
Great now I removed and reinstalled original and the right cam sprung back counterclockwise. I followed direction of moving crank back 4 teeth then tried to move right cam clockwise to mark and it springs forward past the marks?
I'm having a bad time
Every time I tension the belt, the right bank moves half a tooth to take up the slack between the water pump and left bank. When there is no slack, I can't get the belt on the tensioner pulley. Any advice?
Purchased a new timing belt tensioner (Aisin #BTM-500) and out of the box new not installed yet the pin will turn but it does not "spin" freely. Should I wait for a new part or will this one work when installed with proper torque?
D.I.Y.’ing.???..... Man you deserve many applause. That was a difficult job.
Question: if just want to just replace the timing belt tensioner, do i need to do almost all this? ...I suspecting that the knocking/ ticking noise when accelerate is bc the failing "hydraulic tensioner" or serpentine belt tensioner . !!!??? i have problem with engine rattle !!!
I've done everything but when I tried to reinstall the " grenade pin" it won't go in. The hole in the rod is extended too far.
Everything looked good
how do i adjust one of the camshafts if they are off a couple inches? The compression caught it as i’m putting the new belt on and shifted on me. i’m afraid to turn it 350 degrees to put it on the mark or turn it backwards.
@ FlipSide Fishin - You have to remove the timing belt again then turn the camshaft PULLEY clockwise using your crankshaft/camshaft bolt removal tool (do not turn the pulley by the bolt using a socket or a box wrench) until the TDC marks align. Don't turn it counter clockwise or you will be risking a bent valve. Watch 16:13 - 16:28 for the procedure.
Hi! What would you do when the crankshat pulley won't turn? It turned with the old timing belt while I was lining up the timing marks to top dead center!
+Manny Reyes - Piston compression makes the crankshaft pulley hard to turn. You may use a pipe extension to your ratchet to have more leverage which I did OR you may remove the spark plugs... this usually makes the crankshaft pulley easier to turn but it will cost you some additional work time.
Nunki Rider thanks for the reply! not following your video step by step since the beginning of my timing belt removal has created a headache for me. Now I have to start all over. Also thanks for the DYERs tools!
where'd you get the mitsubishi tool that holds the crankshaft pulley while undoing the crankshaft bolt
The idea came from the internet, the tool per se is a DIY project (the materials were bought from a local hardware store), and the dimensions can be seen at 3:50.
Just a quick question...does the timing cover require a gasket at the top? Could I use some kind of silicone? I did not see anything in your video regarding that. Thanks a bunch!
@danjss1 - there is no gasket, it is just a plastic cover
@@nunkirider8738 thank you.
just curious, how come you did not change the water pump when you had it all apart?
+Eric C - I am experimenting... :) . I knew a veteran mechanic at mitsu who said that he never had seen a water pump failed on this mitsu... and further said “if ain’t broke why fix it!” ... so I did’nt... ...Besides, the Mitsubishi Maintenance Manual never mentioned of changing the water pump. :) ...Thank you for watching the video!
99.9% of the time it's not necessary with this vehicle. Most people do it "just in case" because they're already at an access point when doing this job.
Where can I get the tools 🔧 too take off the Harmonica Balancer. The tool i see that is holding it !! When you used the Impact wrench
@ Joseph Peterson - That was a D.I.Y. tool that I made and its dimensions can be seen at 03:28, however if you want to buy the original one, just Google “Tool MB991800, MB991802”. OTC 4754 Universal Pulley Holder Wrench with interchangeable pins may work too.
If you back wrap an accessory belt, (there is a video)it'll break the crank bolt loose for ya its super easy. Then use one of those thick white plastic toilet nuts to space it so you can turn it, its fits the bolt and space absolutely perfect.
same procedure for a Mitsubishi 380 in australia
You are correct... Thank you for adding it to the list...
Ok I've watched this like 1000 times now does the crankshaft pulley bolt turn clockwise or counter clockwise?
It is a lefty-loosey and righty-tighty... Thank you for watching the video....
@@nunkirider8738 thanks bro you helped me get it off I wanted to do the crank position sensor and now found my timing belt is split so your vid is my guide.ill let you know how it goes .
Help!!! I was following your video and was putting my belt back on, I was having trouble getting my marks on my belt to line up with the right bank. I must have put tension on the right cam because it broke my hold wire and jumped counterclockwise. I tried to turn it clockwise to line it back up but used a ratchet and didn't realize that it could jump the opposite direction, which it did. I see now that I needed to go back 4 teeth on the crank but it's too late. What should I do? Would this have bent the valves?
+ billy10289 - sorry for the late response. In theory, yes you could have a bent valve, but in ‘my’ opinion if you turned the camshaft clockwise, you are still OK. You are already there. Finish your work slowly, step by step in detail. Be sure your TDC marks line up in your final crankshaft turn test (do it 2x to be sure it does line up. If you did not remove the spark plugs, turning it is a little bit hard but it is doable with a ratchet). When you start the engine, it will have a horrible sound (clack-clack-clack). If the clacking never goes away then your valves are bent however, if it does goes away after a minute or so…then celebrate and buy yourself a beer!!! …
@@nunkirider8738 Thank you for your reply, unfortunately I was on a strict time limit and had to proceed before I received your response. My issue was that I had already turned the right bank cam clockwise towards TDC again after it jumped counterclockwise but I used a ratchet instead of something solid like a breaker bar, this allowed the right bank cam to jump clockwise past TDC, so it was to the right about 45°. I called around to some garages and dealers and also did some research online and some brain storming which brought me to this conclusion, that the spring tension would not be enough to bend the valves. So what I did was buy a cheap set of cam holders and turned the right bank counterclockwise up to TDC without moving the left bank and crank, since it had already traveled that path on it's own under spring tension. I put everything back together and started it, while running, it had a loud tick that sounded like valve noise but it did go away, I also read somewhere that many Mitsubishi engines have noise that comes from the lifters occasionally.
While trying to put the new belt on I tried everything but could not get it to line up with my marks, the only way that I could get the belt on was to unbolt the idler pulley, align the marks, and then bolt the idler pulley back on, this worked great. I also had a chance to try this method on my 99 rodeo a few days later, worked on it too.
any tricks to getting the timing belt on? I have been fighting with this belt for the past 2 hours. the old one is stretched and will go on perfect, but this one is so new it is become a pain in the ass.
+peirce kinnison - First, be sure that your new timing belt is the correct timing belt for your 2004 mitsubishi endeavor. These are the specs.:
Top Width (in) 1.26 in.
Top Width (mm) 32 mm.
Effective Length (in) 61.42 in.
Effective Length (mm) 1560 mm.
Number of Teeth 195
Tooth Profile Round tooth
Tooth Pitch (in) 0.31496 in.
Tooth Pitch (mm) 8.000 mm.
Check if the timing belt hydraulic tensioner piston has been set and locked with a retaining pin.
Position the timing belt first from the top (right CAMshaft pulley -water pump pulley - left camshaft pulley) Be sure that all TDC marks are aligned and then fix the timing belt to the camshafts with a zip tie or with a large binder clip so you’ll be sure it will not jump, followed by aligning the marks on the CRANKshaft pulley from below. Be sure that the timing belt tensioner pulley fixing bolt is loose so you can move it laterally to the left and position the timing belt towards its right side (or you can temporarily remove the hydraulic tensioner so you can easily move the timing belt tensioner pulley towards the left and then position the timing belt). It should be easy to install. Be sure to recheck the alignment of all your TDC marks and remove all your fixing ties/binder clips before you turn the CRANKshaft. Please read the description of this video. Good luck...
peirce kinnison I had a huge trouble myself with my timing belt. And I pray to Jesus to help me out and got it done after two days of struggling over the Memorial Day weekend! I was the one with a seized Harmonic balancer and didn't know what to do! God came through for me along with the help of ticks and tricks from the UA-cam videos!
Great tutorial mate! Quick question tho, did you bleed the hydraulic tensioner before the install?
+Mario Carino - I bought the Timing Belt Hydraulic Tensioner with its piston already compressed and locked with the pin and I just installed it straight forward.
@@nunkirider8738 Righto, quick question mate, does your hydraulic tensioner collapse when the engine is off? Just checked mine and noticed that its collapsed and its fairly new. Was wondering if thats normal since a loose timing belt can jump teeth and damage the engine.
+Mario Carino - Watch the video at 10:47 you will see the length of the auto tensioner piston before it was removed, at 19:14 the hydraulic auto tensioner installed. That gap (AKA visible part of the ‘tensioner piston’) should be 4.8 - 6.0mm. The tensioner has a spring inside it to give you this gap mostly every time when installed. If you cannot get that value after you installed the hydraulic auto tensioner there must be something wrong with your hydraulic auto tensioner and/or the installation process.
You can do mine anytime well done
do 2011 mitsubishi endeavours have a timing chain or belt? looking at one in a few days. belt may change my mind??? thanks
all endeavors uses timing belt...
@@nunkirider8738 thanks , just bought a 2011 se, may change it out, i don't know when its last been done, im at 145000. am i worrying for nothing or should i have it done, is it expensive? i live in canada
@joey miller - If the timing belt has not been changed before... Its time to do it. A broken timing belt will wreck your engine and will stall your vehicle in the middle of the freeway risking to be rear-ended. As to price, I’ve been quoted at the dealership for more than a thousand dollars U.S. years back…I have no idea how much will it cost in your area. Someone in my channel commented that he just bought the parts and hired a mechanic to do it and saved…
Where's the actual putting the belt on part?
I bought a 2007 Endeavor SE with all wheel drive. I see another video on here with a faulty timing belt tensioner that makes noise similiar to a rod knocking. If I upload you a video of my engine noise do you think you could tell if it is a rod knocking or the tensioner. My Endeavor was a one owner and has 195K and the belt and tensioner have never been changed. I am very cash poor...well poor period and this used Endeavor would be the nicest vehicle we have ever owned. My thoughts were if I take off the timing belt cover like you did I would be able to physically see if it is the tensioner causing that awful knocking noise. There is another video here on youtube of an Endeavor making a really loud knocking noise and it turned out to be the hydrolic tensioner. I also understand that there could also be some bent valves if it is indeed the tensioner. I am just looking for some advice and you seem to really know your stuff. After watching your video I would be hesistant to take it to anyone to be serviced becuause if they do not properly install the tensioner then it can cause real problems. I am going to try to upload a video of the noise now for you to see. Thanks in advance for any help or reply you may have.
Nunki Rider my harmonic balancer won't turn! What can I do?
What happens if you forget to put the gear into neutral, when doing this timing belt change?
@Carlos Tercero - Neutral disengages the transmission from the engine and not doing it makes turning of the crankshaft a little bit harder I suppose.
You have to put the car transmission in Neutral for this job.
i need help to install a timing belt to a 3.0 V6 ENGENE PLEASE HELP
if you can't do it with this video go to a mechanic or pay someone no stranger will just come help you, do a job that you could get paid like 2 hours to do with a water pump not to mention the liability if they mess the timing with someone else car since it's interference your gonna have a bent valve which turns it into a god damn job
Everything was good. Pin spun freely after torque, spun engine 4 times all timing marks are lined up but when I went to reinstall "pin" the rod is extended too far for "pin" to go back in. The original torque had the "pin" spinning freely as it should. My kit # is TKM-003 for an 05 Endeavor. The water pump is different that what is on car.. The belt appeared to be same length of original. Why won't the "pin" go back in if all marks are correct after turning motor around 4 times?
+Bob Adams - You have to remove your hydraulic timing belt tensioner, compress the piston in a bench vise (a c-clamp might work but I don’t recommend it) and reinstall the pin. Install the hydraulic tensioner again making sure the all components are installed properly. Recheck the orientation of your timing belt tensioner pulley (Bolt up and two eyelets are down). Make sure your new water pump ‘pulley’ location and diameter is similar to the old one. Do the proper install procedure of the timing belt again (correct torqueing of the timing belt hydraulic tensioner center bolt is very critical). If the same thing happens after 2 turns (or 4) of the crank shaft and with a good TDC alignment, the hydraulic tensioner might be defective…I’m not a mechanic…this is only my opinion…don’t follow what I’ve wrote :) . Good Luck…
@@nunkirider8738 Thank you for reply. I didn't change water pump. Original torque and location of the tensioner pully is correct and pin spun freely. Turned motor over about 4 times & all locations are correct. But then you said reinstall pin and spin freely. Doesn't the rod have to extend to apply the pressure on the tensioner pully for the belt? And that is why the rod is extended?
+Bob Adams -Yes the rod extends to and fro but at TDC you should be able to reinsert the grenade pin with ease or at least a very little force. Redo your install -remove the tensioner pulley, remove the hydraulic tensioner, recompress the piston of the tensioner in a bench vise (protect the piston end so it will not be scratched), relock it with the “grenade pin” and reinstall it back then re-torque the tensioner pulley to the correct torque specs, and reconfirm the alignment of all TDC Marks. Also be sure that the marks and direction of turn of the old timing belt marks is the same as in the new timing belt as it is installed. After turning the crank shaft 2x try to reinsert the “grenade pin” it should go in with ease or with tiny force and will spin if flicked… measure the tensioner gap (a.k.a. exposed rod )… it should be 4.8 - 6mm otherwise hydraulic tensioner may be defective.
+Bob Adams - I looked at the part number at rockauto - Part number #TKM003 timing belt and component kit is manufactured by AISIN and this is for Mitsubishi Montero Sport 1999-2001!!!! Please recheck if I am wrong...
The instruction sheet in the box says Endeavor 3.8 2004-2008 and Gallant 3.8 2004-2009. The belt was the same, the belt pulleys are the same and the tensioner is the same. Amazon also showers it for the 2005 Endeavor. The water pump is different though so I am leaving the original. I've spun motor a couple more times and all the timing marks are correct and the tensioner on the timing belt looks correct. The tensioner was installed correct position, bolt above 2 holes and the pin spun freely after install. The hole in the rod is just at the end of the body. Doesn't it extend a little from install and removal of pin to apply tension to belt?
How did you know it was going out? What symptoms was it displaying?
@lindseyconnor1999- it is a routine maintenance thing that should be done every 60,000 to 100,000 miles. If the timing belt is starting to wear down, rarely, the engine will run poorly and the check engine light may come on but Most of the time, no symptoms until the belt snaps and the engine just stop and the vehicle stalls on the middle of the road…
Dont need to remove ac belt tensioner, did same vehicle yesterday. Dont need zip ties for cam sprockets either.
You are absolutely correct if you are not going to replace the ac belt tensioner pulley with a new one. Regarding the zip ties, you are also correct, but if you are a d.i.y’er and doing this alone for the first time, it is a good thing if you have something (a string, a wire, a binder clip, etc.), that will hold the timing belt in place with the TDC marks aligned while you are installing the timing belt
down at the crankshaft pulley and the timing belt tensioner pulley.
Nunki Rider what would you do if the harmonic balancer don't want to turn to align the marks to TDC? Please reply! I'm in the middle of finishing my first ever timing belt and don't what to do. I heard the clanking sound you showed in your step by step video!
hey man still need some help?
Need to know how many teeth can you be off with out damaging your valves/pistons
+James Gordon Well, timing is precise component, personally I would want zero teeth being off... I would take it apart and re-align it until I get it right. When I did mine I took the spark plugs out of the front to make it easier to turn the crankshaft. I spun it around 3 times then checked timing one last time. I had everything perfect. It took a few since my belt was kind of worn out so my timing was off, so I couldn't just attach wires the way in the video.
I have a 2008 Mitsubishi Endeavor AWD with 110,000 Miles. I want to replace the Timing belt ,water pump too. I want to get all OEM parts. Does anyone know where to buy a kit with everything in it at a good price.
@Bobby Miller - You will need a Timing Belt Component Kit (Timing Belt, Tensioner Pulley, Idler pulley) + Timing Belt Hydraulic Tensioner Assembly + Water Pump to do the job and you have to buy them individually. Mitsubishi Endeavor was discontinued last 2011. I have no idea if they are still producing OEM Parts. I went to the dealer to buy a hydraulic tensioner but they gave me an after market one…so I shopped online and bought my parts at rockauto dot com and go with the favourite OEM supplier brands (Bando, Kuyo, Ishino, NTN, NPW, Aisin, etc..). A lot of Mitsubishi OEM parts are made by Denso….
You will need a Timing Belt Component Kit (Timing Belt, Tensioner Pulley, Idler pulley) + Hydraulic tensioner + Water Pump to do the job. You have to buy them individually. Mitsubishi Eneavor was discontinued last 2011. OEM parts, I have no idea if they are still producing it. I went to the dealer to buy my hydraulic tensioner but they gave me an after market one…so I shopped online and bought my parts at rockauto dot com and go with the favourite OEM supplier brands (Bando, Kuyo, Ishino, NTN, NPW etc,,). A lot of mitsubishi OEM parts are made by denso….good luck….
@@nunkirider8738 ok I will take a look around. thank you
From Mitsubishi I just ordered the Timing Belt and Auto Belt Tensioner. It was all OEM parts from Mitsubishi. I will replace these part myself. It all depends on the weather here in NY. So I will see.
Part Number Part Name Price Quantity Total
1145A043 Timing Belt $108.97 1 $108.97
1145A070 Belt Tensioner $145.25 1 $145.25
Subtotal: $254.22
Estimated Shipping to 10305 via Economy Shipping: $12.97
Total: $267.19
Thanks so much for making this video! No way I would have attempted this without your help.
Quick question for anyone who's done this: After you hand turn it a few times, should the white lines made on the belt still line up with the timing marks? My cams and crank line up with the timing marks but the white lines on the belt don't. I think it's normal though right? Just paranoid....
I did a complete "kit" including the cam seals. Word of caution, don't press them in too far! Ask me how I know.
I thought about it some more and answered my own question. No they shouldn't align... Not sure what I was thinking.
Car started up with a horrible clacking noise, but it calmed down after a few minutes. Sounds normal now EXCEPT a slight whirring noise, most noticable when I rev and then let off. Maybe things are a just a little tight when new? My grenade pin flick spin was perfect, so I don't think it's tensioned wrong.
+Dan Spaeth - You are correct… however, after ‘many’ turns of the crankshaft and /or the camshaft, all the white lines on the timing belt will realign again to the TDC marks. I just don’t know exactly how many turns it will take to realign. However, all of the TDC marks of the Camshaft and the Crankshaft should realign back to its TDC mark in every single turn of the Camshaft and/or every 2 turns of the Crankshaft. Not sure but the whirring noise may be caused by one of the pulleys attached to one of the serpentine belts (including the pulleys of your AC compressor and Alternator). Might as well re-check first the tension of your two serpentine belts.
I'm so sorry, I didn't move the crank back to mark before trying tore position cam. I'm frustrated and have an unhappy Wife!
+Bob Adams - No worries, Remove the timing belt, reset the Camshafts and Crankshaft to TDC, fix the Camshaft with wires and do the reinstall procedure again.
I've done two of these on my own cars (2002 Diamante 3.5 and 2004 Galant 3.8) and getting all the timing marks to line up while using the special tool is the worst part of the whole job. I don't know why they didn't just use a normal roller that already has the correct angle when you release the hydraulic tensioner.