Here in the Netherlands our normal petrol is Euro 95 but with an ethanol amount of 10%. This fuel is bad for a lot of vehicles, so i always put V-Power or BP Ultimate (great additives) Octane 98 in my 1.4 TSI (& other vehicles). What I also recommend for these engines, especially the 1.4 TSI CAVD (Turbo Compressor) : - Change the bobines every 120.000 km's (75.000 miles). - Check & Change sparkplugs every 30-40.000 km's (25.000 miles). - Change the airfilter (only for stock airfilters) every 30-40000km's (25.000 miles) - Change the fuelfilter every 80000 km's (75.000 miles) - If you fuel up your car with Euro 95, then add additives every 10 fuel ups. - Sometimes drive the car in the high rev zone for 10 minutes, (if the engine is on operating temperature), this causes the engine to clean carbonite on the pistons and clean the katalysator.
Id recommend also waiting for your oil to get up to temp because the viscosity changes and allows the tensioner to function properly, the gauge pointed out in the video is the coolant gauge which is very different, oil usually takes much longer to warm up than coolant, if you can, wait til its above 70C
I bought one of these in June last year. Bought with 42,000 miles and now up to 73,000. No issues with it what so ever. Regularly serviced with VW the most I’ve had to change is a set of tyres. Not the greatest of fuel that’s my only complaint more suited to city driving. Comfortable, nippy and dependable.
Exactly bro aslong as you look after it. It's a great car. What do you mean not the greatest of fuel? Do you mean it's not great on fuel or you haven't been putting the best fuel in
@@Fizzy.g I just find it a bit heavy on fuel, maybe because I’ve changed from a line of Diesel engines. It’s a 2012 this one so one of the later ones. My driving is mainly motorway, perhaps it is the petrol I’ve used but during the winter I struggled to average about 35 mpg but now that the good weather is in seem to have got it up to 40+. I’ve found that to get the higher Mpg on motorway nearly need to be staying at a constant 65-70 mph, any big acceleration seems to just make it eat it. Have always used BP filling station from I bought it and have done regularly cleaning with RedX I was thinking it was a decent quality fuel. But I definitely get you about the cold thing, definitely would not work it hard when it’s cold and just ease it in. Some of the family have a mixture of diesel and TSI VW engines, I’ve found the 1.2TSI in both Golf and Polo seems to be dodgy with timing chain, well in our experience anyway and that was even with regular servicing.
Oh on the motorway you should be getting 45 ish and possibly higher because that's what I get so maybe get your car scanner because sometimes a broken sensor can actually effect your mpg alot and yeah the 1.2 TSI had the same issue aswell as it's the same generation engine and they're very similar
@@Fizzy.g yeah starting to get round about that 42ish mark. Also forgot to mention that when I did originally get it last year when it was in the around the 42,000 miles I got it with, after motorway journeys, turbo actuator would stick all the time so sometimes after coming off motorway it would do this massive bounced in like 2nd gear as if you’d had like a really rough gear change or stalled. I put that down to it being pretty low mileage to start off with and probably wasn’t used much, but found when I hit around the 60,000 mark problem seems have gone away don’t know if that’s to do with the actuator flexing more and getting more used not sure but just noticed that. Was originally planning to pull it apart some day and put on some high temperature grease but doesn’t seem to need it anymore, but yeah in the round good engine provided serviced regularly and not abused. Noticed a 1.4TSI Caxa on Auto Trader yesterday with 182,000 miles on it so they can go on well providing they’re looked after.
Oh ok I get that same thing with the gear change and I was trying to work out what it was because it doesn't always happen so I'll take a look at the turbo actuator and yeah from what I know if these engines are maintained well they can easily go to 200k miles and higher without any major work
The Golf Mk6 is definitely my all time favourite model. I bought a 2010 1.4 TSI last year and it’s still running good. It’s fuel efficient, well cared for and totally up to date on maintenance. I love this car.
Some very good pointers there. I found little to zero issues with my golfV STI 1.4 GT DSG . Second owner starting from 45000km and I am now on 80000km. Alwaýs use high quality oil. I would advize getting the chain replaced on 90000km or on 100000km in order to get another 150000km without running into a surplus of faults. One crucial thing I would of mentioned is that one should also get the gearbox oil (DSG/Auto/manual)serviced too as that can also have an effect on the chain. Generally overlooked but thank me later.
I literally just bought a Golf 1.4TSI yesterday after trading my 1.2TSI. I always use 95 but I have, at times opted for the cheaper engine oil. Really glad to know that I need to stick to mid to high tier oil and keep going with 95. Thanks for the video!
Yeah low oil isn't the worst for it however if your going to run it above 3k revs and properly drive the car then I'd definitely say atleast use mid range/high end oil
Bruv always had Japanese cars but been looking at a second hand 1.4 golf tsi, and my dad was telling me some of the same things you mentioned in this video and he has over 40 years in the business, very good information, very important video ,take note people
I've clocked 240,000km on my Jetta 1.4, perfect condition although I already changed clutch kit. Good point I always follow, don't Rev the car hard (above 3k) until Oil temperature is between 90 and 110°C, when you exceed 110°C, slow down a bit or else you accelerate wear on the engine. Great engine this one
Im a diesel and Honda girl.. just got a golf 1.6 tsi.. so i know nothing so thank you so much for this lovely video!!!!! Also rush around the front wheels and the foam ... i do love and look after my cars Thank you 😊 Love this as i love all car vidos 😬😬😁😁
I own a VW Golf MK5 1.4 GT 170bhp for the past 14 years. It has 250.000 km on it. I have had very little problems with it. Always used 5w30 Castrol oil and 98 Octane gas. The timing chain and water pump set was changed twice since i bought it and the petrol pump once. The only real issue i had was the 2 electro-valves that were changed a few times in the first 5 years but never had another problem since then.
No part is "lifetime" when a manufacturer says a lifetime part they mean 6yrs if life as they expect you to buy a new car by then so thats roughly 60k miles and a belt should be changed at the same time it's all marketing jargon but my chain has lasted me 105k miles and it's still going strong
Oh yeah quality standards have gone down for sure as companies want to increase profit margins. But these issues you guys are concerned about happen because cars are not serviced on time and with good quality parts. For example if you use good quality oil e.g Castrol edge 5w 40 and good fuel so 98+ octane fuel and always cold start the car completely before moving off then you'll never get any issues with the chain and so on
@@Fizzy.g hey bro, I’ve a found a TSI (red SI) For 4.5k aud negotiable so pretty cheap, 2009 118TSI automatic with 200kms on it. No other mechanical issues but the seller just says their mechanic said it needs the butterfly valve replaced and a new battery. Never heard of a butterfly valve in my life, do you know if that’ll be a huge problem time and money wise to get sorted? Any advice for autos rather than manuals? 200kms is alright yeah? It’ll be my first car to call my own but I’ve been into cars and driving for years so I reckon I can take care of it easy, just watching yt videos like yours. I got a 7k budget and for 4-4.5k I’m thinking of buying the car, I think it’ll be a solid daily
Hi, yeah they're solid cars just make sure it has good maintenance and always run it on premium fuel then it should be good. Check to see if the chain had been changed and see if you hear any rattles on cold start
I've got the Mk6 TSI GT 1.4 with 160bhp, it has a supercharger which is a massive bonus. I always top it up with Shell only petrol, with expensive fuel you get more miles and it's really good for the engine too. Never skimp on parts, always use OEM parts as it'll prolong the life of the car and won't leave a big dent on your wallet in the long run!
@@abulrahat5484 it's a nice runner mate considering it's a 1.4.... make sure the water pump has been changed as it controls the supercharger. The water pump has a magnetic cluch fitted to it, it's about £400 to get it fix if it goes. Make sure the gearbox oil has been changed, mines a auto! These cars are well over 10 years old so you'd always have to stay on top it if something goes. Hope you find a decent one mate 👊🏽
Pretty sure the fuel type used is not to do with the purity of it as you say but the octane level. These engines have a higher compression ratio from typical say Japanese hatchbacks in the same class, as such you need to put 95 octane or higher in them or the fuel will not detonate under the right conditions in the cylinder and essentially cause damage over time (along with reduced perfomance and mpg). Essentially, higher octane fuel wont detonate as easily as lower octane stuff, as such it will ignite at the right time when the spark plug fires in these engines; as opposed to partially igniting too early in random parts of the cylinder. My mechanic has recommended rotating the octane of the fuel too if you cant always afford to use higher stuff, but I will generally put in a tank of 98+ every fourth fill or so and the rest of the time 95+.
2010 , 1.6 Manuel , is the one i have . And it's very Reliable , even after 200,000 km. Out of regular services , the timing belt every 80,000 km , and the Manual Gear Clutches that i did after 185,000 km , this Car is probably the best car I've had .
I can confirm that 1.4L TSI engines love Euro 95 fuel, and the engine will run buttery smooth if its high quality Euro 95, currently at 182 000 km. Still love this engine especially combined with a DSG.
I regularly service my tsi 1.4 122bhp with the castrol edge, and keep the car fuel full using only the BP E5. It has been a good car. Only thing that puts me off is the cold starts mostly during the warm days, It can sometimes be embarrassing lol.
Your audio qualtiy is very poor. Second, i drive a 1.2 TSI now for nearly four years ( 1.2 TSI, 2011 ). Not one problem in four years. Little service each year for around 150 pound and I don't drive like Max Verstappen but take good care of my car.
i had a 2010 Golf Mk6 1.4 TSI (twin charger 160 bhp) for almost 10 years and it was a terrible sweet nightmare. I 100% spent more money on repairing the car than what it originally cost me + selling it. It's a very very sensitive engine that feels like it was put together with every piece of it just barely on the edge of breaking down. I did 160,000km on the car during which I replaced the turbo 2x times, water pump/magnetic clutch 3x times, DSG dual clutches 3x times, DSG Mechatronic 1x.... not to mention the weeks and mOnths it spent at the garage and dealership waiting for parts or getting troubleshooted for insanely complicated repairs. It genuinely love the car, but i hated the guts of it at the same time. 10/10 would not recommend unless you're a masochistic f*k like me.
All of the issues you've had with the car sounds like it just needed a bit more maintenance to prevent them. The dsg gearbox is also known to have issues but the manual is fine and the turbo issues shouldn't of happened as it has quite a strong turbo. Also as you do oil changes with good quality oil such as Castrol edge or something even better like millers nanodrive and then always cold started it and always run it on 99 octane fuel and the car should run great
@@Fizzy.g I babied that car, OEM parts, oil change on time, CASTROL…etc. the engine was too complicated for its own good. Turbo charger + super charger + direct injection + DSG + magnetic clutch pump = too much trouble
Oh ok that's odd then maybe you just got unlucky. And yeah supercharger pulley was a common issue that wasn't avoidable and same with the dsg gearboxes the dq200 is crap
@@Fizzy.g I actually consider myself lucky, everyone else I know who has the same engine (in a golf, scirocco or a Passat CC) had complete engine failures or cracked pistons. I’m lucky I sold my car before anything that serious happened.
Pro tip connect a lav mic to you camera, there cheap, sound great and will make the quality of your vid so much better. Cause its hard to hear what your saying with the background noise, if you use a lav mic it attaches to your t-shirt so the audio is clearer. Thanks for the vid btw it was very informative. Keep up the good work.
Yeah bro i have a mic now. The channel isnt self sufficient currently as I am not getting paid by UA-cam however as soon as I am I'm going to invest in cameras, lighting, mics, and the whole lot to me the production 100x better
@@Fizzy.g once you meet a certain standard on UA-cam you can apply to get verified and make money through ads. You can look it up for further information. If you want I can send you a link to a video.
Yeah that's what I'm going to do. It's one I hit 1k subscribers and after that this channel is going all out crazy. Because then I know for sure I can make money off this and I won't be wasting time ygm? Im not doing UA-cam for money but I do need a steady income to keep it sustainable and to pay for the things I do for videos
I can't thank you enough for this info. I've seen one of these, and I really want it and after some research today I was just going to give up and move on. I've heard all the horror stories about the engine, chain, tensioner, fuel etc but absolutely no one had said that this is all avoidable with regular service work and decent quality service items. These are all things I do with my current car. The absolute gem here is an actual owner saying you can infact run it reliably on decent quality 95 octane petrol, again something pretty standard in my household. Excited to try and get one of these, thanks matey😁
Yeah with good maintenance the engine is solid and really you should do that maintenance with any car anyway. When you neglect it then it can have big issues.
Yeah the chain is the only major thing. just treat it well and it'll be ok. Remember change the chain when u buy it because you don't know how the previous owner treated the car but once you have a new chain on you know how your treating it and if you doing everything how it should be then you know it won't go on you
I just recently bought a 1.4 122hp one and I can say that I am happy with my purchase. It's a fuel efficient car that you can still have some fun with. The main thing that I looked at when buying it was: if the chain has been replaced, when the oil has been changed and if the owner checked these things between services as well. Especially cars that have been driven longer distances, not milage but just longer drives. I am thinking of doing stage 1 tune but not sure because this was meant as a "cheap" but modern daily that just runs and gets me to places.
Yeah bro I'm planning to go stage 1 when I get 1000 subscriber so when I do you can see how it is and I'll make a video talking about it and seeing if it's worth doing and much more information about it
@@Fizzy.g Awesome! Looking forward to the video! Do you already have a company in mind where you're gonna tune it? When you do it it would be nice if you can get dyno results before and after.
I've got a few companies in mind and yeah I'm going to have the Dyno results of before and after and I've already got a 0-60 video out. I'm gonna keep doing updates as the build goes on to show the progression because I'm also planning to possibly go stage 3 with this car aswell.
Now it depends how you drive. For normal driving I'd recommend 1 a yr or every 8000 miles whichever comes first. However if you drive it quite hard then roughly once every 6 months or every 5000 miles
1. Just start and drive, no need to wait until it idles at under 900rpm. 2. I'm driving around with the 1.4TSI (CAXA), it runs perfect with ANY 95 E10 (10% Ethanol) 3. High octane fuels make the car run a tiny bit more efficient, but the high price of these fuels completely makes it useless. Also the car doesn't run better on the E5. 4. Direct injection engines benefit from having the head cleaned from carbon every 50.000-100.000 km. 5. Coils (called bobines above) only need to be changed when broken. Mine still drives fine with the factory coils (almost 160.000km).
Best to wait until idles under 900rpm as the chain tensioner run off oil pressure so you'd want some pressure to build up. Yes for non twincharged E10 95 Ron is ok. Carbon clean isn't 100% needed aslong as you properly drive the car and rev it out regularly. And yeah coils don't really tend to go but spark plugs need doing every roughly 40k miles
Yeap, serviced mine after app 35.000 km. No notification on the dash yet, will just keep my own interval. I saw 35k is a bit too much, as the oil was pretty black. Will decrease to 25.000km and see what the oil looks like.
Cheap/poor fuel of the wrong octane rating can and will cause pinging, premature detonation. This also puts a tremendous load on the timing chain as a piston is still coming up towards TDC to fire, and early detonation suddenly tries to send the piston downwards before it's completed it's upward stroke. That can contribute to timing chain stretch, jumping teeth, and chain breakage irrespective of the brand of car.
Hello, thanks for your video, you have reassured me. I just changed my touran 2012 1.6 l diesel (i have driven 360 000 km) to a touran 2014 with tsi 1.4 liter motor (121 000 km). I have felt really scared since yesterday to read about all the problems with the chain. I got a one year garanti from the dealer i bought it from. Would you recommend me to have the chain checked or changed? Thanks a lot in advance.
Im kinda late here to say. But the gauge that tells the Temparature is for the Coolant\Water. So you want to reach that 90 degress frist and secondly before hitting hard do it slowly so the Oil reaches The temparature. It is acutally the OIL that needs to be on TEMP but most cars dont have OIL Gauge. Just trying to say that the water reachers 90 degress before the Oil wich is a big mistake people do.
Oh yeah for sure. Oil + coolant need to be at operating temp. I think I mentioned it in the vid but I can't remember. By the time the coolant hits 90 the tensioner usually has enough pressure to operate properly
Love my EA211 1.4 TSI in a Golf. Seven years, 80,000 miles, 48MPG urban/highway combined. Use 5w-30, change regularly 7,500-15,000 depending on if the oil is VW 502.00 or 504.00. Use 98 Premium fuel. Changed the plugs/filters/wheel rotation myself, and that's about all it ever asks for!
Yeah bang on you literally just need an oil change every abt 8-10k/ 1 yr. Spark plugs every 3-4 yrs and good fuel. That's literally all u need to get any car to run forever.
Great video for promoting general care of your car but please do more research on the octane rating. You mention this is how much oxygen in the fuel and that if you put the wrong one your car won't know what to do with it. Actually octane rating is to do with octane funnily enough and the car knows what to do with it as in, it will advance or retard the timing to maximise power or efficiency without knock/predetonation depending on the octane rating, with a higher octane fuel you can get more power and mileage but it costs more so may or may not be worthwhile depending on what fuel Costa and your priorities, the issue as far as I understand is that the cheaper fuels are of a lower quality and have less of the additives etc that keep the engine and injectors cleaner.
Thanks 💯. And oh with the higher octane fuels doesn't your ECU need a remap so it knows how to use it to it's full potential because the stick tune is usually set for 95 octane on most cars
Thanks for your efforts. Unfortunately, I could not understand your accent perfectly. I bought used VW 1.4 with automatic transmission (driven 200 tkm) today. Can you write down in few lines about the recommendations as 1, 2, 3, etc For example, 1. In the morning, warm up your engine temperature and go after 90*c 2. Use perhaps 98 % octane? 3. Change timing chain after every.....km 4. Fuel pump change....km 5. Engine Oil change after....km and which grade for 200 tkm driven car? 6. Cabinet air filter and engine air filter change after.....km 7. Sparking plug change after.....km 8. Also when to change the gearbox oil and any instructions? Thanks in advance.
1. Only need to warm the engine up for a normal cold start. Wait around 2 minutes before driving ( if your chain is rattling wait until the rattle is gone) 2. Use 98 or higher octane fuel 3. Change the timing chain every 60k or when it rattles 4. fuel pump shouldn't need changing until it has issues but it'll last really long 5. Oil change every 8000km with 5w40 fully synthetic oil 6. Change filters every 8000km 7. Spark plugs every 25000km 8. If the gearbox oil hasn't been getting change in the past the. Don't change it but if it's had regular services then change it every 3-5 years
Excellent video. One thing's worth mentioning is that 90 degrees is the coolant temperature and that doesn't mean the engine oil has reached the operating temperature. Oil takes a lot loner to warm up, which means the engine shouldn't be fully pushed hard for further 15 minutes approx. Unfortunately, unlike my Focus ST, the TSI doesn't seem to have a oil temperature gauge. Anyway, I've learned a lot from this video. Thanks.
@@Fizzy.g I used to have this car back in 2010 when I was living in the UK and really loved it. Now I'm in Australia and looking to buy a second car - TSI with both supecharger and turbo. Planning to test drive a couple. Both cars have done around 85K miles. Hopefully, I'm not making a mistake. Back in 2010, it was a new car.
@@Pri78G don't do it dude, aussie fuel is garbage and those engines run super hot + lean, they aren't suited to a hot climate. Get a mk7 golf with the belt driven 1.4, way more dependable!
This is an excellent video. Great job man. Just a note on the gas quality : Shell or other top tier fuel is the right choice like you said, cleanest and best additives. However, the secondary issue worth caring about is the ethanol content. Regular gas typically has 10% ethanol. Premium should have 0%. (sometimes has up to 2% because some manufacturers cheat). Anyways ethanol is a likely and common source of gross deposits and clogging the motor. For your lawnmower or yard tools premium is always the way to go too. Way less deposits from the ethanol. Anyways, great video. Cheers
Also, Periodic maintenance is : Seafoam into the intake to clean the valves, plus a little into the crank case before an oil change. Also PCV valve after while should be cleaned / swapped.
Why would you buy an old used Mk6 and then spend £700 or whatever on a timing chain, tensioner, waterpump etc change? Either buy car where its already been done or buy a Mk7, Astra, Focus or whatever instead.
Yhh are u mad I ain't paying £700 for a timing chain that's extortionate I'm paying £100 for parts and gonna do the job myself. It's actually quite simple
Hi Fizzy, I know this video is old, but I wanted to ask you something, I noticed that if the cold start starts and I turn the car off and then back on again then the revs return to normal, as if the cold start ended, at which point do you think the oil has had time to circulate in the engine or do you still have to wait a while? Thanks in advance PS. Thanks for your videos
I got the 09 twincharged one, the turbo went the other day ( £1500 lighter now ) so it ran low on oil for a bit. The timing chain and water pump hasn’t been changed either ( it’s at 72k miles now ) it also has clutch problems lol It has full service history and regular oil changes, do you think it’ll be okay for another 30k miles? Also would any damage have been done to the piston rings if it ran low on oil? Thanks, and good video!
my brother got me this car. and the first thing he said was your only filling up fuel with Shell and dont drive off straight away wait a min or 2 you will hear the car go quiet. my bros good with cars so he gets my car serviced and stuff himself. i used to drive the vw polo wanted a upgrade so got this. btw im a girl and i do like cars haha
Ohh ok. Btw idk if u saw the comment but that was in lockdown so ignore the trim😂😂. Yh with any car always fill up with shell and services I got all the Vids for that Ive done almost everything to my car myself so if u do need help with anything just dm me on insta and that's with an VW engine cuz me and my bro have been working on them for ages. And hold up why u still awake it's 3am 😂😂
@@Fizzy.g lol i did see the comment about ur hair haha it looked fine. and yeh thanks for the advice. i can't sleep lol and why am i awake? more like why are you awake haha
The funny part about is that you didn’t really mention anything that hasn’t been a Volkswagen issue for the last 20 years they’ve always had timing belt issues and water pump issues which you know that you have to change right away the oil consumption of the turbo that’s totally understandable. Wow, just wow.
I have a 2nd hand Touran 1.4TSI from 2007, and I wish I had never bought it. I had the timing chain changed 8,000km ago and it does a clicking noise again (and Code P000A). It has 130,000km and timing chain has been done twice. On the top of that, I have problems with the turbo (Code P2262). I always do a cold start, put decent 95fuel and have the oil changed regulary. Of course, I also faced coolant leaks... Terrible experience !
Yeah😕 maybe the owner before you abused it & that engine is designed for 98 octane or higher so that could have a big impact on it. The turbo must've been on its way out from the last owner and oil use 5w 40 Castrol edge and that'll be fine
Yeah? In the UK all of the 1.4 twincharged need 98 octane minimum. maybe they used to put 95 and then realised there was issues and changed it in the future
Hi, did you buy good quality improved chain? I just bought OEM upgraded kit 03C198229C for £400 and i hope to be done with it forever (waiting for turbo fail)
Yeah that's the whole issue with the twincharged you'll never really know that information so it's just a risk. That's why I stuck to the lower power variant.
The tfsi is for Audi it's the same engine but different branding. The way you can tell between twincharged and the smaller one with just a turbo is the twincharged has a much bigger engine cover and on the golfs they only come in GT spec
I have the same car and have issues while shifting from 1st to 2 nd or 2nd to 3 rd Rest are all good. And this happens not all the time. Do you suggest to keep this vehicle or what are your points . Please
I have this car, I didn't know about the fuel, i am in South Africa I fill in in any filling station i want to. Thank you about the information. There is one thing that drivers say around here. They say Shell petrol burns pretty fast. I dont know about that as i said i fill everywhere. But from now on i will try and stick with Shell.
Yeah I'm not sure how it is in South Africa but check to see which fuel has the highest octane or Ron number because they will be the higher quality fuels and it probably will be shell but check just incase
Also the chain tension doesn't operate with oil pressure, it's spring loaded. Lack of oil/bad oil causes the chain to elongate, not actually stretch, it gets less lubrication and wears on pullys and can wear teeth down in pullys causing it to jump teeth
Great video mate have had the car 6 months now and never knew about the fuel, will be only getting 95 now. Have you had the car mapped? Thinking of getting stage 1
I'm planning to get the car remapped when I hit 1k subs so probably in a few months and then after that I'm also possibly thinking of going stage 3. I've got a few videos on it but yeah bro see what you like out of my vids and if it's your kinda thing maybe consider subscribing 💯💯
I’m buying a 2009 golf 1.4 tsi 122hp from a dealership for £3900. 100k miles. Says that timing chain kit with new tensioner and water pump has been done by them recently. Its gonna be my first car just wondering, what should I look out for when I go for a viewing to see? I won’t be able to bring someone with me. And do you think it’s a good price?
If chain and tensioner have been done recently then there shouldn't be any rattling sound at all when starting up the car and ask for receipts for everything. And yeah it sounds like a decent price maybe try get him to knock off a £100 sometimes they don't mind a small discount if it gets them the sale
I think you might be referring to my air intake. My performance intake actually improves the engine and I do extensive testing before showing my modifications to others on UA-cam
Does the addition of cylinder deactivation make any difference. If the car is started and moved at low speeds then only 2 cylinders will be running until a higher speed-load is requires the 2 extra cylinders. Would an occasional long drive at steady speeds and a bit of hard acceleration not solve alot of these issues.
The cylinder deactivation is actually for the next generation 1.4 TSI. The engine you're referring to is the EA211 that engine doesn't suffer the same issues as the EA111. The EA211 doesn't have any major issues you just give it a good service once a year and it's a solid engine
I am looking to buy a 1.2 TSI 2013 Golf. It does have fully service history but folks telling me VW petrol are nothing but trouble. It will be my first VW car though. Any suggestion/advice would appreciate?
Aslong as you keep up with regular maintenance ( oil changes every 8k / 1yr ). Use good fuel, always let the car do it's cold start and never rev it high while it's cold then these engines are solid. People only get issues with them when they don't look after them correctly
I wouldn't recommend Morrisons fuel bro. I'd recommend either shell v power or Tesco momentum after that then I'd say Esso 99 octane fuel and if you can't get any of them then get the highest octane possible from any station so try get 98 if 99 isn't possible. It'll say on the pump what it is
oh for a diesel id recommend standard shell fuel and on roughly your 4th tank do 1 full tank of v power diesel as it'll keep your engine clean so do 3 tanks of normal diesel and then 1 tank of v power diesel as v power has cleaning additives within it
@@Fizzy.g Do you know when ea211 came out and if the belt actually have solved the issue? I mean a lousy 1.4 engine w. chain might have been replaced with lousy belt. For instance, in older Opel 1.6 petrol engine it was said the belt would hold 120000 km but it never did in the end they said change belt every 60000 km or after about 4 years or so... Expensive engine to maintain for sure.
@@Fizzy.g But unfurtunately high oil consumption is also prezent at Ea2111... Leon Mk3 1.4 tsi CMBA i try to find now where is the problem..Valve seals, or piston rings
I'm buying a Japanese import 2014 1.2 TSI really good condition freshly serviced 60k but doesn't have service history everything in Chinese. Do you think I should get a new chain straight away?
I think before getting anew chain first see how it sounds on the cold start. If it rattles but then goes away once it's warm then it'll last you another few months but if it keeps rattling when warm the it'll need a chain as soon as possible
If you don't do much work to cars and don't think you'll be able to take the extra little bits of time to look after the Mk6 such as always putting in premium 99 octane fuel. Always cold starting the car, making sure good quality oil goes in it and always service it on time then I'd suggest getting the Mk7 as it can take a bit more of a beating if you can look after it like that that then I'd say get the mk6 as it'll be more fun because it has more power
I have had a twin charged TSI since 2016. The timing chain + full kit must be changed. Don't think you can get around this. Mine had 60k miles and + 10 oil changes all done at VW and still needed it done. - No need to use premium fuel. I have done so since 2016-2021, and it still needed to have the valves cleaned. - Change the oil yourself every 7500 k km - Injector problems - Waterpump failure - Spark plug and coils always needs changing Other than that, the engine drives really great, but mines still shakes at idle and has misfires.
Yeah bro u do need to use premium fuel as the engine is factory tuned to run on 98 octane so anything lower can effect it. And every around 60k the chain should be changed and VW are also not gonna do the best service they use the cheapest parts and charge the most money to just make profit & yeah spark plugs and coils really count as maintenance but the injectors issues are maybe because of the wrong fuel has been used and waterpump u probably just got unlucky with it. the misfires and so on though thats most likely because of the wrong fuel
98 isn’t going to make the valves clean since it’s a direct injection engine. To keep the valves clean you should consider installing an oil catch can. Because the carbon you see on the valve stems are just oil and gunk that comes from the oil pan via the PCV hose.
Had the engine light come on mine the other day had it scanned p2188 code came up car running to rich on idle the engine light stayed on for a couple of days now its off have you had this problem with your golf
Bought a 1.4 TSI in November. Dealer did a basic service before I collected the car. I had a lot of lumpiness on cold start but also driving at low speed. Told a fuel injector needed replacing so had all 4 replaced. Which seemed to resolve the lumpiness initially but a couple of weeks on it's returned. The garage is stumped so I have booked the car in for them to investigate. I did fill up at a Tesco garage for convenience. Could this really be down to cheap fuel and oil?
Best thing to do is buy your own parts and go to a place where you can watch the garage fit the things you bought that way you know good quality parts are going into your car. If suggest getting a full service done if these parts haven't been changed recently so a oil & oil filter change, spark plugs, fuel filter, cabin filter and air filter. I have a video fitting most of them parts if you want to check that out aswell
I would recommend all cars fill up with v power now even if your car has not got very good performance stats or especially if it's getting old. The government is trying to kill your car with E10, V power and other 99 octane fuels are the only non E10 fuels you can get now, my gess is E10 would kill these little reliable but sensitive 1.4 tsi 16v no problem. E5 only people
@@Fizzy.g i use to use 95 back when it was still E5 on my non turbo single cam volvo v70 because there is no point putting in v power being not a performance car thus not benefitting from the v power petrol unlike my T5 volvo. However i even started putting v power even in the slow non turbo single cam now only because i don't want to kill my non turbo with E10 its from 2001 as well so yeah it definitely wouldn't agree with E10.
The 160bhp is the one that has even more problems the 122 that I have is the safer one. With the 160bhp just make sure it's always cold started and it's never pushed when the engine is cold. Also that engine Is designed for 97 octane fuel so don't use standard fuel in it use vpower from shell and also make sure to get your timing chain done if it hasn't been changed already and then keep up with regular services every year. The service will be the same as mine so if you want to check the oil change video that I made
I've found a real cheap 1.4 TSi MK5 140hp near me. I am really interested in the car but I am unsure whether I should get it or not. It is 50% cheaper than any other dealership near me, which I find quite odd. Should I get it, or save up more money and eventually get me another car?
I'd say get it changed when you can but its not an urgent issue however if your driving the car quite hard so shifting at high rpm and so on and using the car to its full potential then I'd say get it changed as soon as you can
I have a oil change video. ua-cam.com/video/nmC1_OHeZgE/v-deo.html Also if you're looking to change spark plugs and add a performance air filter I also have videos on that. All parts that I use in my videos are linked in the description of that specific video
Haha i use tesco momentum now, i used to do shell v power all year long and i dont feel the difference haha, my car only needs 95 ron, but the price difference is not much different in my area atm so i just get the 99 ron. BTW great video boss and good explanation on the timing chain. My car was pretty reliable too like all the problems just randomly came at 60k miles haha, but everything is fixable and not too expensive apart from the clutch. These motors are very reliable, the supercharged one usually needs water pump replacement after like 40k miles i read somewhere as thats a common weak point on that model. Inshallah shell sponsor you haha, you should actually message them you never know
Yeah bro Tesco momentum is the only other petrol I'd recommended the rest are rubbish. v power and momentum are the same Uno both 99 Ron so just get the cheaper one. I haven't had any issues with mine alhamdulillah and mines just hit 100k. And yh trust me insha'Allah she'll sponsor me 😂😂😂 if I had free petrol I'd be sorted for life😂😂😂
@@Fizzy.g its possible bro you never know haha, like for my service video eurocarparts sponsored like 2 parts when i did it which reduced my cost of servicing, i also recently been sponsored by kings castle the food place which im really happy about. Chinese companies always wanting to sponsor too one recently sponsored me for the mk6 golf led lights, just ask around bro i think you will be able to get some keep persisting and your content is great so they will check your channel and will give it inshallah
Yeahhh that's mad bro mashAllah your doing sick bro. How do you even get these sponsorships with companies because if I can get some i can get some crazy content for u guys
@@Fizzy.g search what ever company you want such as say shell, search on google shell media contacts uk, you find the email and email them your proposal and what you looking to get off them, you will get a lot that dont reply, others that reject you, and then some will say yes so its worth trying you are a up and coming channel with a lot of growth good luck bro
hello, I really need help. 1.4 tsi 160 ps how to make sure that the engine works for many kilometers without problems? mention that in my country the quality of gasoline is rather poor. which additives are suitable? thank you very much
I'll be honest I wouldn't suggest Costco fuel. For a diesel I'd say stick to using branded fuels as they usually have the better additives so shell, BP, Esso and whatever else there is. Out of them 3 I'd say shell is the best
It won't always do that full cold start sending unless it thinks it needs to however yeah I would suggest waiting abt 2-3 mins before moving just to allow the oil pressure to increase and for it to warm up a little bit
I'm going to get a professional technician to inspect a 2010 twin charger TSI with 75000 miles that I'm interested in buying. Apart from his checks what additional check should I ask him to do. How do I know if the previous owner had looked after it - such as IF piston rings have gone through a lot of stress (metal fatigue can eventually cause metals to give way). Am I doing a risky business? I have some obsession with this car. BTW, I've just subscribed 🙂
Yeah that's the issue. You can't inspect what the last owner has done. Only way u can is with service stamps and judge the car as best as you can. A specialist can help and will still be safe to take a specialist to check it however it only reduces the risk it doesn't eliminate them. And thanks for subscribing 💯
I'd say yeah they're great cars. I even got mine only a year ago. Just make sure it has good service history and I would recommend giving it a good oil change when you buy it
Very very good on fuel I get around yeah it's the 122. I get around 37 on average and that's with mixed driving so flooring it sometime and in town if I drive eco I can get an easy 43+
My big problem i have here, is i don't have SP95 Nearby, all station near have E10 (SP95-10Ethanol) Thoo, my car got a reprogrammation to run on E85, so.. i should be fine no matter what i put in, i think. Question thoo, What cooling liquid do you use, cause, i think i might have a problem with my water pump giving me a high pitch constant sound on the car idling. might have to change the pump. I also have incar issues where, when it's super cold, i struggle to get the fog away, mostly, I haven't seen any humidity spot in my car
Personally id avoid the whole twincharged one completely however if you are still going to get it the price is decent if anything you could maybe get it for 4000 and make sure timing chain is done straight away and only use v power from then on and it should be ok. If anything get it scanned with vcds every year just to see if any issues have popped up and atleast then you'll know if there are any major issues before they cause any damage
@@Fizzy.g ye I’ve got it mate dsg aswell 4200 not too bad and ye I’ll only use shell anyways cos it’s the closest one to me just need to make sure I service it every so often how often would u say ?
98 is ok for the engine. Anything above 95 is good but it's just cheaper to put in 95 and you won't gain any benefits from higher octane as the car hasn't been told how to use it
Timing chain is the issue with the cax 1.4tsi engine and I've replaced mine already and seen a few that have had 2 changes before 65000miles. It also has coolant line issues with the turbo/manifold with the o rings cooking themselves but not that serious at all
@@Fizzy.g definitely right with that but I would recommend always allowing engine to warm up before driving and not leaving the car parked in gear. The timing chain is an issue and it's just down to sheer poor design as the guide was made of plastic on my oem VW chain and just wore through. A stage one remap or any remap also doesn't help the Chain to be fair
Yeah I put in the vid always cold start the car and never push it when it's cold. Yeah I heard something about a better revision of the timing chain but I'm not sure which one it is. Because I'm looking to put that on before I remap my car
When u start the car after leaving it off over a long period of time so around 8hrs + you'll see when you turn it on the revs will hold at round 1.1k and it'll sound a bit loud then after a minute or 2 it'll drop to the normal 900ish and then the car is ready to drive
The Mk6 1.4 is a great car let down by delicate / high maintenance engines and a crappy dry clutch DSG. All fine if you're buying nearly new but the older / more higher mileage you get, the more you're putting your hand into a basket of snakes....
Yeah exactly bro. Amazing engine if it's been maintained but after 1 person neglecting it then it just goes downhill. And I have no idea why they use the crappy dry dsg box and not the wet clutch on in the Gti's
I'd suggest switching to 5w 40 oil also take off the undertray and check under the car. If it's consuming a huge amount there's possibly a leak somewhere you might need to change a gasket somewhere
@@Fizzy.g i checked under car after after night in the morning, no leakage under ,i tried the smoke test giving gas in idle position , smoke was completely white. They told me engine revisie and costs 1500€.. But I feel they want to take an advantage that Im not so aknowledged and want to take my money.
Hmm I guess you could check it again. Clean the underneath first so then if oil does come out somewhere you'll see fresh oil. Also check the engine breather pipe and also ontop of the engine and the side to see if there is any oil. You basically need to find where this oil is going. Is it leaking out or is it burning it all
@@Fizzy.g Yes , once I saw on top of the engine between some place right on the top a small liquid of oil and I was wondering how can this occur there if the oil is under the engine. And it was so small that you can even wipe it good enough to check if it is oil or just water.
Naa the problems are managable just make sure u maintain it. The main things are just make sure you cold start it before you start driving and once you hit 90°c then u can start pushing the car and go over 3k revs and then once every around 3 months check your oil
@@Fizzy.g thanks for the reply, try and see the car I'm looking at if you can below Hi, look what I've just found on Shpock: www.shpock.com/en-gb/i/YMfSxKYWBTcOF_zs/2006-volkswagen-golf The seller told me that there's no issues, just that apparently the key needs to be put in ignition to open the boot
It’s not like that, The engine have knock sensor and when we refuel, higher octane fuel he change ignition, to better performance and economy? Btw. I don’t think castrol is good, he leaves something like a red „grease” (I don’t now how to write this in english 😂) and polish mechanics recommend „liqui moly” or „motul” and you don’t think that 5w40 is not too „thick”? And better was be 5w30?
Yh but the simple version that most people will understand is basically don't put in the low octane fuel as it will damage the engine and I've checked many places and I've seen that liqui Moly and Castrol edge are both really good oil and professionals say to use 5w40 as it is thicker on engines that have over around 80k miles and cars that are remapped
![Best 1.4 TFSi TSi Mods & Upgrades [Seat, Audi, VW, Skoda Tuning Guide]](/img/n.gif)
Here in the Netherlands our normal petrol is Euro 95 but with an ethanol amount of 10%. This fuel is bad for a lot of vehicles, so i always put V-Power or BP Ultimate (great
additives) Octane 98 in my 1.4 TSI (& other vehicles). What I also recommend for these engines, especially the 1.4 TSI CAVD (Turbo Compressor) :
- Change the bobines every 120.000 km's (75.000 miles).
- Check & Change sparkplugs every 30-40.000 km's (25.000 miles).
- Change the airfilter (only for stock airfilters) every 30-40000km's (25.000 miles)
- Change the fuelfilter every 80000 km's (75.000 miles)
- If you fuel up your car with Euro 95, then add additives every 10 fuel ups.
- Sometimes drive the car in the high rev zone for 10 minutes, (if the engine is on operating temperature), this causes the engine to clean carbonite on the pistons and clean the katalysator.
I couldn't of said it better myself
Wtf is bobines???
Idk. I'm guessing the timing chain? They probably call it something else in his country
@@Fizzy.g loool Raggo name to call it 😂 and definitely my fuel filter needs changing and maybe chain n water pump together
@@deadwolfking8267 I believe ignition coil he meant.
Id recommend also waiting for your oil to get up to temp because the viscosity changes and allows the tensioner to function properly, the gauge pointed out in the video is the coolant gauge which is very different, oil usually takes much longer to warm up than coolant, if you can, wait til its above 70C
I bought one of these in June last year. Bought with 42,000 miles and now up to 73,000. No issues with it what so ever. Regularly serviced with VW the most I’ve had to change is a set of tyres. Not the greatest of fuel that’s my only complaint more suited to city driving. Comfortable, nippy and dependable.
Exactly bro aslong as you look after it. It's a great car. What do you mean not the greatest of fuel? Do you mean it's not great on fuel or you haven't been putting the best fuel in
@@Fizzy.g I just find it a bit heavy on fuel, maybe because I’ve changed from a line of Diesel engines. It’s a 2012 this one so one of the later ones. My driving is mainly motorway, perhaps it is the petrol I’ve used but during the winter I struggled to average about 35 mpg but now that the good weather is in seem to have got it up to 40+. I’ve found that to get the higher Mpg on motorway nearly need to be staying at a constant 65-70 mph, any big acceleration seems to just make it eat it. Have always used BP filling station from I bought it and have done regularly cleaning with RedX I was thinking it was a decent quality fuel. But I definitely get you about the cold thing, definitely would not work it hard when it’s cold and just ease it in. Some of the family have a mixture of diesel and TSI VW engines, I’ve found the 1.2TSI in both Golf and Polo seems to be dodgy with timing chain, well in our experience anyway and that was even with regular servicing.
Oh on the motorway you should be getting 45 ish and possibly higher because that's what I get so maybe get your car scanner because sometimes a broken sensor can actually effect your mpg alot and yeah the 1.2 TSI had the same issue aswell as it's the same generation engine and they're very similar
@@Fizzy.g yeah starting to get round about that 42ish mark. Also forgot to mention that when I did originally get it last year when it was in the around the 42,000 miles I got it with, after motorway journeys, turbo actuator would stick all the time so sometimes after coming off motorway it would do this massive bounced in like 2nd gear as if you’d had like a really rough gear change or stalled. I put that down to it being pretty low mileage to start off with and probably wasn’t used much, but found when I hit around the 60,000 mark problem seems have gone away don’t know if that’s to do with the actuator flexing more and getting more used not sure but just noticed that. Was originally planning to pull it apart some day and put on some high temperature grease but doesn’t seem to need it anymore, but yeah in the round good engine provided serviced regularly and not abused. Noticed a 1.4TSI Caxa on Auto Trader yesterday with 182,000 miles on it so they can go on well providing they’re looked after.
Oh ok I get that same thing with the gear change and I was trying to work out what it was because it doesn't always happen so I'll take a look at the turbo actuator and yeah from what I know if these engines are maintained well they can easily go to 200k miles and higher without any major work
The Golf Mk6 is definitely my all time favourite model. I bought a 2010 1.4 TSI last year and it’s still running good. It’s fuel efficient, well cared for and totally up to date on maintenance. I love this car.
Yeah with good maintenance it's a solid car
Some very good pointers there. I found little to zero issues with my golfV STI 1.4 GT DSG . Second owner starting from 45000km and I am now on 80000km. Alwaýs use high quality oil. I would advize getting the chain replaced on 90000km or on 100000km in order to get another 150000km without running into a surplus of faults. One crucial thing I would of mentioned is that one should also get the gearbox oil (DSG/Auto/manual)serviced too as that can also have an effect on the chain. Generally overlooked but thank me later.
Yeah aslong as its looked after well they're great motors
I literally just bought a Golf 1.4TSI yesterday after trading my 1.2TSI. I always use 95 but I have, at times opted for the cheaper engine oil. Really glad to know that I need to stick to mid to high tier oil and keep going with 95. Thanks for the video!
Yeah low oil isn't the worst for it however if your going to run it above 3k revs and properly drive the car then I'd definitely say atleast use mid range/high end oil
Bruv always had Japanese cars but been looking at a second hand 1.4 golf tsi, and my dad was telling me some of the same things you mentioned in this video and he has over 40 years in the business, very good information, very important video ,take note people
VW engines are okay with prevention maintenance
With good maintenance most VW engines last forever. And then you for the 1.9 TDI PD which is indestructible 😂
Bruv? Do you also say free instead of three?
@bumspanka0927 yeah I also say knobhead instead of dickhead, I'm such a Rebel 🙄
I've clocked 240,000km on my Jetta 1.4, perfect condition although I already changed clutch kit. Good point I always follow, don't Rev the car hard (above 3k) until Oil temperature is between 90 and 110°C, when you exceed 110°C, slow down a bit or else you accelerate wear on the engine. Great engine this one
Yeah of you look after them they're solid cars
Im a diesel and Honda girl.. just got a golf 1.6 tsi.. so i know nothing so thank you so much for this lovely video!!!!! Also rush around the front wheels and the foam ... i do love and look after my cars
Thank you 😊
Love this as i love all car vidos 😬😬😁😁
Just great video 👍
I own a VW Golf MK5 1.4 GT 170bhp for the past 14 years. It has 250.000 km on it. I have had very little problems with it. Always used 5w30 Castrol oil and 98 Octane gas. The timing chain and water pump set was changed twice since i bought it and the petrol pump once. The only real issue i had was the 2 electro-valves that were changed a few times in the first 5 years but never had another problem since then.
Yeah if you look after them they're solid engines
No part is "lifetime" when a manufacturer says a lifetime part they mean 6yrs if life as they expect you to buy a new car by then so thats roughly 60k miles and a belt should be changed at the same time it's all marketing jargon but my chain has lasted me 105k miles and it's still going strong
Oh yeah quality standards have gone down for sure as companies want to increase profit margins. But these issues you guys are concerned about happen because cars are not serviced on time and with good quality parts. For example if you use good quality oil e.g Castrol edge 5w 40 and good fuel so 98+ octane fuel and always cold start the car completely before moving off then you'll never get any issues with the chain and so on
@@Fizzy.g hey bro, I’ve a found a TSI (red SI) For 4.5k aud negotiable so pretty cheap, 2009 118TSI automatic with 200kms on it. No other mechanical issues but the seller just says their mechanic said it needs the butterfly valve replaced and a new battery. Never heard of a butterfly valve in my life, do you know if that’ll be a huge problem time and money wise to get sorted? Any advice for autos rather than manuals? 200kms is alright yeah? It’ll be my first car to call my own but I’ve been into cars and driving for years so I reckon I can take care of it easy, just watching yt videos like yours. I got a 7k budget and for 4-4.5k I’m thinking of buying the car, I think it’ll be a solid daily
Hi, yeah they're solid cars just make sure it has good maintenance and always run it on premium fuel then it should be good. Check to see if the chain had been changed and see if you hear any rattles on cold start
I've got the Mk6 TSI GT 1.4 with 160bhp, it has a supercharger which is a massive bonus. I always top it up with Shell only petrol, with expensive fuel you get more miles and it's really good for the engine too. Never skimp on parts, always use OEM parts as it'll prolong the life of the car and won't leave a big dent on your wallet in the long run!
Yeah bro exactly^^^
Yo Farid I'm thinking of buying the same 1.4 gt model. Would you say it's reliable?
It's only reliable if it's been maintained extremely well since the start and usually they haven't but they can be ok but they need alot of care
@@Fizzy.g that goes with anything mate, logic innit!
@@abulrahat5484 it's a nice runner mate considering it's a 1.4.... make sure the water pump has been changed as it controls the supercharger. The water pump has a magnetic cluch fitted to it, it's about £400 to get it fix if it goes. Make sure the gearbox oil has been changed, mines a auto! These cars are well over 10 years old so you'd always have to stay on top it if something goes. Hope you find a decent one mate 👊🏽
Pretty sure the fuel type used is not to do with the purity of it as you say but the octane level. These engines have a higher compression ratio from typical say Japanese hatchbacks in the same class, as such you need to put 95 octane or higher in them or the fuel will not detonate under the right conditions in the cylinder and essentially cause damage over time (along with reduced perfomance and mpg). Essentially, higher octane fuel wont detonate as easily as lower octane stuff, as such it will ignite at the right time when the spark plug fires in these engines; as opposed to partially igniting too early in random parts of the cylinder. My mechanic has recommended rotating the octane of the fuel too if you cant always afford to use higher stuff, but I will generally put in a tank of 98+ every fourth fill or so and the rest of the time 95+.
Yh sounds good👍🏽
2010 , 1.6 Manuel , is the one i have .
And it's very Reliable , even after 200,000 km.
Out of regular services , the timing belt every 80,000 km , and the Manual Gear Clutches that i did after 185,000 km , this Car is probably the best car I've had .
Yeah they're quite reliable cars
I can confirm that 1.4L TSI engines love Euro 95 fuel, and the engine will run buttery smooth if its high quality Euro 95, currently at 182 000 km. Still love this engine especially combined with a DSG.
I regularly service my tsi 1.4 122bhp with the castrol edge, and keep the car fuel full using only the BP E5. It has been a good car. Only thing that puts me off is the cold starts mostly during the warm days, It can sometimes be embarrassing lol.
Look into using Tesco or shell E5 you get more power and it's cheaper BP but yeah other than that it sounds perfect
Your audio qualtiy is very poor. Second, i drive a 1.2 TSI now for nearly four years ( 1.2 TSI, 2011 ). Not one problem in four years. Little service each year for around 150 pound and I don't drive like Max Verstappen but take good care of my car.
Does a TSI engine cost more in repairs and parts / servicing?
My 1.4 tsi consume 7-8 💀
Hi,i just found this Channel and agree with you,my golf has been great i treat it with care and have had few issues..
Not really
@Fizzy.g was that response to my question to does a tsi cost more in repairs parts servicing. Would it need more oil changes etc?
i had a 2010 Golf Mk6 1.4 TSI (twin charger 160 bhp) for almost 10 years and it was a terrible sweet nightmare. I 100% spent more money on repairing the car than what it originally cost me + selling it. It's a very very sensitive engine that feels like it was put together with every piece of it just barely on the edge of breaking down. I did 160,000km on the car during which I replaced the turbo 2x times, water pump/magnetic clutch 3x times, DSG dual clutches 3x times, DSG Mechatronic 1x.... not to mention the weeks and mOnths it spent at the garage and dealership waiting for parts or getting troubleshooted for insanely complicated repairs. It genuinely love the car, but i hated the guts of it at the same time. 10/10 would not recommend unless you're a masochistic f*k like me.
All of the issues you've had with the car sounds like it just needed a bit more maintenance to prevent them. The dsg gearbox is also known to have issues but the manual is fine and the turbo issues shouldn't of happened as it has quite a strong turbo. Also as you do oil changes with good quality oil such as Castrol edge or something even better like millers nanodrive and then always cold started it and always run it on 99 octane fuel and the car should run great
@@Fizzy.g I babied that car, OEM parts, oil change on time, CASTROL…etc. the engine was too complicated for its own good. Turbo charger + super charger + direct injection + DSG + magnetic clutch pump = too much trouble
Oh ok that's odd then maybe you just got unlucky. And yeah supercharger pulley was a common issue that wasn't avoidable and same with the dsg gearboxes the dq200 is crap
@@Fizzy.g I actually consider myself lucky, everyone else I know who has the same engine (in a golf, scirocco or a Passat CC) had complete engine failures or cracked pistons. I’m lucky I sold my car before anything that serious happened.
Regardless, the car was so much fun. I loved owning it despite everything.
I'm thinking of getting a golf tsi gt 1.4 l. Any tips in finding out if its going to be reliable? And whats the best price you have seen?
Pro tip connect a lav mic to you camera, there cheap, sound great and will make the quality of your vid so much better. Cause its hard to hear what your saying with the background noise, if you use a lav mic it attaches to your t-shirt so the audio is clearer. Thanks for the vid btw it was very informative. Keep up the good work.
Yeah bro i have a mic now. The channel isnt self sufficient currently as I am not getting paid by UA-cam however as soon as I am I'm going to invest in cameras, lighting, mics, and the whole lot to me the production 100x better
@@Fizzy.g once you meet a certain standard on UA-cam you can apply to get verified and make money through ads. You can look it up for further information. If you want I can send you a link to a video.
@@Fizzy.g also you don't need expenisive lighting or a new cam just get a lav mic for now, not worth getting a new cam or lighting
Yeah that's way in the future. For now I've bought a lab mic. And a mic to put into of my phone but that's all currently with my own money
Yeah that's what I'm going to do. It's one I hit 1k subscribers and after that this channel is going all out crazy. Because then I know for sure I can make money off this and I won't be wasting time ygm? Im not doing UA-cam for money but I do need a steady income to keep it sustainable and to pay for the things I do for videos
I can't thank you enough for this info. I've seen one of these, and I really want it and after some research today I was just going to give up and move on. I've heard all the horror stories about the engine, chain, tensioner, fuel etc but absolutely no one had said that this is all avoidable with regular service work and decent quality service items. These are all things I do with my current car. The absolute gem here is an actual owner saying you can infact run it reliably on decent quality 95 octane petrol, again something pretty standard in my household. Excited to try and get one of these, thanks matey😁
Yeah with good maintenance the engine is solid and really you should do that maintenance with any car anyway. When you neglect it then it can have big issues.
top vid mate,the chains were a thing that worried me about buying a mk6 but i did really like the look of them
Yeah the chain is the only major thing. just treat it well and it'll be ok. Remember change the chain when u buy it because you don't know how the previous owner treated the car but once you have a new chain on you know how your treating it and if you doing everything how it should be then you know it won't go on you
I just recently bought a 1.4 122hp one and I can say that I am happy with my purchase. It's a fuel efficient car that you can still have some fun with.
The main thing that I looked at when buying it was: if the chain has been replaced, when the oil has been changed and if the owner checked these things between services as well. Especially cars that have been driven longer distances, not milage but just longer drives.
I am thinking of doing stage 1 tune but not sure because this was meant as a "cheap" but modern daily that just runs and gets me to places.
Yeah bro I'm planning to go stage 1 when I get 1000 subscriber so when I do you can see how it is and I'll make a video talking about it and seeing if it's worth doing and much more information about it
@@Fizzy.g Awesome! Looking forward to the video! Do you already have a company in mind where you're gonna tune it? When you do it it would be nice if you can get dyno results before and after.
I've got a few companies in mind and yeah I'm going to have the Dyno results of before and after and I've already got a 0-60 video out. I'm gonna keep doing updates as the build goes on to show the progression because I'm also planning to possibly go stage 3 with this car aswell.
I always suggest change oil and filter every 6 months. And change the fuel filter every 12 months. And of course use the higher octane fuel.
Yeah 100% this is what everyone should do for every car
Why you say 6 months? Is time interval more important than mileage?
Now it depends how you drive. For normal driving I'd recommend 1 a yr or every 8000 miles whichever comes first. However if you drive it quite hard then roughly once every 6 months or every 5000 miles
1. Just start and drive, no need to wait until it idles at under 900rpm.
2. I'm driving around with the 1.4TSI (CAXA), it runs perfect with ANY 95 E10 (10% Ethanol)
3. High octane fuels make the car run a tiny bit more efficient, but the high price of these fuels completely makes it useless. Also the car doesn't run better on the E5.
4. Direct injection engines benefit from having the head cleaned from carbon every 50.000-100.000 km.
5. Coils (called bobines above) only need to be changed when broken. Mine still drives fine with the factory coils (almost 160.000km).
Best to wait until idles under 900rpm as the chain tensioner run off oil pressure so you'd want some pressure to build up.
Yes for non twincharged E10 95 Ron is ok.
Carbon clean isn't 100% needed aslong as you properly drive the car and rev it out regularly.
And yeah coils don't really tend to go but spark plugs need doing every roughly 40k miles
Yeap, serviced mine after app 35.000 km. No notification on the dash yet, will just keep my own interval. I saw 35k is a bit too much, as the oil was pretty black. Will decrease to 25.000km and see what the oil looks like.
Cheap/poor fuel of the wrong octane rating can and will cause pinging, premature detonation. This also puts a tremendous load on the timing chain as a piston is still coming up towards TDC to fire, and early detonation suddenly tries to send the piston downwards before it's completed it's upward stroke. That can contribute to timing chain stretch, jumping teeth, and chain breakage irrespective of the brand of car.
Perfect explanation 💯
Hello, thanks for your video, you have reassured me. I just changed my touran 2012 1.6 l diesel (i have driven 360 000 km) to a touran 2014 with tsi 1.4 liter motor (121 000 km). I have felt really scared since yesterday to read about all the problems with the chain. I got a one year garanti from the dealer i bought it from. Would you recommend me to have the chain checked or changed? Thanks a lot in advance.
Brilliant car, quick, reliable and looks good, plus quite good on petrol. I love mine.
Im kinda late here to say. But the gauge that tells the Temparature is for the Coolant\Water. So you want to reach that 90 degress frist and secondly before hitting hard do it slowly so the Oil reaches The temparature. It is acutally the OIL that needs to be on TEMP but most cars dont have OIL Gauge.
Just trying to say that the water reachers 90 degress before the Oil wich is a big mistake people do.
Oh yeah for sure. Oil + coolant need to be at operating temp. I think I mentioned it in the vid but I can't remember. By the time the coolant hits 90 the tensioner usually has enough pressure to operate properly
Love my EA211 1.4 TSI in a Golf. Seven years, 80,000 miles, 48MPG urban/highway combined. Use 5w-30, change regularly 7,500-15,000 depending on if the oil is VW 502.00 or 504.00. Use 98 Premium fuel. Changed the plugs/filters/wheel rotation myself, and that's about all it ever asks for!
Yeah bang on you literally just need an oil change every abt 8-10k/ 1 yr. Spark plugs every 3-4 yrs and good fuel. That's literally all u need to get any car to run forever.
Great video for promoting general care of your car but please do more research on the octane rating. You mention this is how much oxygen in the fuel and that if you put the wrong one your car won't know what to do with it. Actually octane rating is to do with octane funnily enough and the car knows what to do with it as in, it will advance or retard the timing to maximise power or efficiency without knock/predetonation depending on the octane rating, with a higher octane fuel you can get more power and mileage but it costs more so may or may not be worthwhile depending on what fuel Costa and your priorities, the issue as far as I understand is that the cheaper fuels are of a lower quality and have less of the additives etc that keep the engine and injectors cleaner.
Thanks 💯. And oh with the higher octane fuels doesn't your ECU need a remap so it knows how to use it to it's full potential because the stick tune is usually set for 95 octane on most cars
This was before lockdown ended so allow my trim😂😂
Thanks for your efforts. Unfortunately, I could not understand your accent perfectly. I bought used VW 1.4 with automatic transmission (driven 200 tkm) today. Can you write down in few lines about the recommendations as 1, 2, 3, etc
For example,
1. In the morning, warm up your engine temperature and go after 90*c
2. Use perhaps 98 % octane?
3. Change timing chain after every.....km
4. Fuel pump change....km
5. Engine Oil change after....km and which grade for 200 tkm driven car?
6. Cabinet air filter and engine air filter change after.....km
7. Sparking plug change after.....km
8. Also when to change the gearbox oil and any instructions?
Thanks in advance.
1. Only need to warm the engine up for a normal cold start. Wait around 2 minutes before driving ( if your chain is rattling wait until the rattle is gone)
2. Use 98 or higher octane fuel
3. Change the timing chain every 60k or when it rattles
4. fuel pump shouldn't need changing until it has issues but it'll last really long
5. Oil change every 8000km with 5w40 fully synthetic oil
6. Change filters every 8000km
7. Spark plugs every 25000km
8. If the gearbox oil hasn't been getting change in the past the. Don't change it but if it's had regular services then change it every 3-5 years
@@Fizzy.g Many thanks for your anticipations.
I got the 1.4 160PS TSI and it runs with no problem! 117000km
Yeah some of them run fine it's just they have a higher chance of having issues
What should I be looking to pay for a golf tsi 2010/2011 1.4 or 1.6 around 70000 miles? I'm seeing a variety of different prices
It depends on the spec level and the service history aswell
Excellent video. One thing's worth mentioning is that 90 degrees is the coolant temperature and that doesn't mean the engine oil has reached the operating temperature. Oil takes a lot loner to warm up, which means the engine shouldn't be fully pushed hard for further 15 minutes approx. Unfortunately, unlike my Focus ST, the TSI doesn't seem to have a oil temperature gauge. Anyway, I've learned a lot from this video. Thanks.
Yeah it's unfortunate that it doesn't have a gauge for oil temp but yeah you're right you need oil temp to warm up as well before pushing it.
@@Fizzy.g I used to have this car back in 2010 when I was living in the UK and really loved it. Now I'm in Australia and looking to buy a second car - TSI with both supecharger and turbo. Planning to test drive a couple. Both cars have done around 85K miles. Hopefully, I'm not making a mistake. Back in 2010, it was a new car.
The twincharged one you have to be really really careful with
@@Pri78G don't do it dude, aussie fuel is garbage and those engines run super hot + lean, they aren't suited to a hot climate. Get a mk7 golf with the belt driven 1.4, way more dependable!
This is an excellent video. Great job man.
Just a note on the gas quality : Shell or other top tier fuel is the right choice like you said, cleanest and best additives. However, the secondary issue worth caring about is the ethanol content. Regular gas typically has 10% ethanol. Premium should have 0%. (sometimes has up to 2% because some manufacturers cheat). Anyways ethanol is a likely and common source of gross deposits and clogging the motor. For your lawnmower or yard tools premium is always the way to go too. Way less deposits from the ethanol.
Anyways, great video. Cheers
Also, Periodic maintenance is : Seafoam into the intake to clean the valves, plus a little into the crank case before an oil change. Also PCV valve after while should be cleaned / swapped.
Just passed my test and going to buy one of these. Is there any specific oil you recommend?
I recommend using 5w 40 Castrol edge. I have a video on doing a full service and it has links for the oil and the oil filter that I use
@@Fizzy.g Thanks mate
Why would you buy an old used Mk6 and then spend £700 or whatever on a timing chain, tensioner, waterpump etc change? Either buy car where its already been done or buy a Mk7, Astra, Focus or whatever instead.
Yhh are u mad I ain't paying £700 for a timing chain that's extortionate I'm paying £100 for parts and gonna do the job myself. It's actually quite simple
Hi Fizzy, I know this video is old, but I wanted to ask you something, I noticed that if the cold start starts and I turn the car off and then back on again then the revs return to normal, as if the cold start ended, at which point do you think the oil has had time to circulate in the engine or do you still have to wait a while?
Thanks in advance
PS. Thanks for your videos
Me knowing my family putting cheap fuel in a car worth 60k 😳😳
Oh damnnnn yhhhh that's not good.... Tbf my family used to do the same 😂😂🤦🏽♂️
@@Fizzy.g 😂😂😂
Fuel's fuel
Run it on a Dyno and then say that🤦🏽♂️
I got the 09 twincharged one, the turbo went the other day ( £1500 lighter now ) so it ran low on oil for a bit. The timing chain and water pump hasn’t been changed either ( it’s at 72k miles now ) it also has clutch problems lol
It has full service history and regular oil changes, do you think it’ll be okay for another 30k miles? Also would any damage have been done to the piston rings if it ran low on oil?
Thanks, and good video!
I don't put E10 even in my 17 years old Yaris, E5 is a bit expensive but gives better mileage and running.
Yeah E5 works out to be better for the cars and since it gives better mileage it technically works out better financially
my brother got me this car. and the first thing he said was your only filling up fuel with Shell and dont drive off straight away wait a min or 2 you will hear the car go quiet. my bros good with cars so he gets my car serviced and stuff himself. i used to drive the vw polo wanted a upgrade so got this. btw im a girl and i do like cars haha
Ohh ok. Btw idk if u saw the comment but that was in lockdown so ignore the trim😂😂. Yh with any car always fill up with shell and services I got all the Vids for that Ive done almost everything to my car myself so if u do need help with anything just dm me on insta and that's with an VW engine cuz me and my bro have been working on them for ages. And hold up why u still awake it's 3am 😂😂
@@Fizzy.g lol i did see the comment about ur hair haha it looked fine. and yeh thanks for the advice. i can't sleep lol and why am i awake? more like why are you awake haha
😂😂😂. I had a legit reason I was up editing a mad video for my 1k subs like trust me this shit bangs
@@Fizzy.g fair enough haha. congrats anyways. you just reminded me to subscribe haha.
Thanks😂😂💯 and yh I guess hard work pays off and trust me this channel is gonna be hitting different levels after 1k everything's gonna go mad
The funny part about is that you didn’t really mention anything that hasn’t been a Volkswagen issue for the last 20 years they’ve always had timing belt issues and water pump issues which you know that you have to change right away the oil consumption of the turbo that’s totally understandable. Wow, just wow.
I have a 2nd hand Touran 1.4TSI from 2007, and I wish I had never bought it. I had the timing chain changed 8,000km ago and it does a clicking noise again (and Code P000A). It has 130,000km and timing chain has been done twice. On the top of that, I have problems with the turbo (Code P2262).
I always do a cold start, put decent 95fuel and have the oil changed regulary. Of course, I also faced coolant leaks... Terrible experience !
Yeah😕 maybe the owner before you abused it & that engine is designed for 98 octane or higher so that could have a big impact on it. The turbo must've been on its way out from the last owner and oil use 5w 40 Castrol edge and that'll be fine
Thanks! About the fuel, it has labels stating 95 octane only.
Yeah? In the UK all of the 1.4 twincharged need 98 octane minimum. maybe they used to put 95 and then realised there was issues and changed it in the future
Hi, did you buy good quality improved chain? I just bought OEM upgraded kit 03C198229C for £400 and i hope to be done with it forever (waiting for turbo fail)
My chain still has some life left in it so mine doesn't need changing yet and yeah I'm looking to get the OEM replacement kit
Is the 2012 1.6 petrol engine good? Does it have the same problems? The only version without turbo, right?
Yeah bro its a good engine. It hasn't got the same issues but with any car you get still make sure you cold start them.
So if im buying one of these used how do I know what fuel the previous owner has been using? I doubt most people will have been using Shell fuel
I don’t think you will ever know that, unless you are buying from a private seller
Yeah that's the whole issue with the twincharged you'll never really know that information so it's just a risk. That's why I stuck to the lower power variant.
So if u bought it with new timing chain- would it be ok in 2023- or waste of time
Yeah it'd be fine aslong as the previous owner looked after it
i am about to buy a 1.4 TFSI GOLF 2010. is it the same motor as the 1.4 TSI 2010?
Would you recommend buying this car? Thanks 🙂
There are 2 types. One is the same as mine and the other one is the twincharged. All twincharged models are GT spec
@@Fizzy.g thanks! So the TFSI IS TWIN CHARGED? I am thinking of buying a 2010 1.4 TFSI GOLF with only 8000km..do you think it is a good buy?
The tfsi is for Audi it's the same engine but different branding. The way you can tell between twincharged and the smaller one with just a turbo is the twincharged has a much bigger engine cover and on the golfs they only come in GT spec
I have the same car and have issues while shifting from 1st to 2 nd or 2nd to 3 rd
Rest are all good. And this happens not all the time. Do you suggest to keep this vehicle or what are your points . Please
Sounds like the linkage could be bad or the gearbox oil has never been changed and it needs a change.
Which car has a better 1.4 engine in terms of reliability, power, quiteness and economy than this Golf.
Are you talking about any 1.4 engine or between the twincharged 1.4 and the normal 1.4
Bro I wanna buy mk7 tsi 1.4 or tdi 1.6 vw golf 2013 to 2014 reg and with 150+k miles
Which one should I get any option. Its gonna be my first car
id say the mk7 1.4 tsi rather than the diesel mk6
@@Fizzy.g thanks bro I’ll keep my eye on it then thanks for your opinion 👍🏼😊
I have this car, I didn't know about the fuel, i am in South Africa I fill in in any filling station i want to. Thank you about the information.
There is one thing that drivers say around here. They say Shell petrol burns pretty fast. I dont know about that as i said i fill everywhere. But from now on i will try and stick with Shell.
Yeah I'm not sure how it is in South Africa but check to see which fuel has the highest octane or Ron number because they will be the higher quality fuels and it probably will be shell but check just incase
Are they all educated people?
Also the chain tension doesn't operate with oil pressure, it's spring loaded. Lack of oil/bad oil causes the chain to elongate, not actually stretch, it gets less lubrication and wears on pullys and can wear teeth down in pullys causing it to jump teeth
Oh I've seen on many forums that for this engine it works off oil pressure but the other TSI engines use a spring loaded one
Great video mate have had the car 6 months now and never knew about the fuel, will be only getting 95 now. Have you had the car mapped? Thinking of getting stage 1
I'm planning to get the car remapped when I hit 1k subs so probably in a few months and then after that I'm also possibly thinking of going stage 3. I've got a few videos on it but yeah bro see what you like out of my vids and if it's your kinda thing maybe consider subscribing 💯💯
I’m buying a 2009 golf 1.4 tsi 122hp from a dealership for £3900. 100k miles. Says that timing chain kit with new tensioner and water pump has been done by them recently. Its gonna be my first car just wondering, what should I look out for when I go for a viewing to see? I won’t be able to bring someone with me. And do you think it’s a good price?
If chain and tensioner have been done recently then there shouldn't be any rattling sound at all when starting up the car and ask for receipts for everything. And yeah it sounds like a decent price maybe try get him to knock off a £100 sometimes they don't mind a small discount if it gets them the sale
Did I notice an engine update to this engine with the blue plastic hose. Could this be impacting its reliability?
I think you might be referring to my air intake. My performance intake actually improves the engine and I do extensive testing before showing my modifications to others on UA-cam
Does the addition of cylinder deactivation make any difference. If the car is started and moved at low speeds then only 2 cylinders will be running until a higher speed-load is requires the 2 extra cylinders. Would an occasional long drive at steady speeds and a bit of hard acceleration not solve alot of these issues.
The cylinder deactivation is actually for the next generation 1.4 TSI. The engine you're referring to is the EA211 that engine doesn't suffer the same issues as the EA111. The EA211 doesn't have any major issues you just give it a good service once a year and it's a solid engine
Whats the max I should be paying for a golf mk6 1.4 tsi in match spec? Prices seem to be inflated alot right now
A good condition one around 100k miles on a 1.4 TSI Mk6 se spec with full service history and no issues I would say abt 3.8k is reasonable.
I am looking to buy a 1.2 TSI 2013 Golf. It does have fully service history but folks telling me VW petrol are nothing but trouble. It will be my first VW car though.
Any suggestion/advice would appreciate?
Aslong as you keep up with regular maintenance ( oil changes every 8k / 1yr ). Use good fuel, always let the car do it's cold start and never rev it high while it's cold then these engines are solid. People only get issues with them when they don't look after them correctly
Yo bro, is Morrison’s fuel any good? Just don’t know much about cars. Respect bro, love your videos 👍👍
I wouldn't recommend Morrisons fuel bro. I'd recommend either shell v power or Tesco momentum after that then I'd say Esso 99 octane fuel and if you can't get any of them then get the highest octane possible from any station so try get 98 if 99 isn't possible. It'll say on the pump what it is
@@Fizzy.g thanks bro, what about for 1.6tdi?
oh for a diesel id recommend standard shell fuel and on roughly your 4th tank do 1 full tank of v power diesel as it'll keep your engine clean so do 3 tanks of normal diesel and then 1 tank of v power diesel as v power has cleaning additives within it
@@Fizzy.g my broski, thanks bro respect 👊 ✊
No worries bro. If u got any other issues just lmk
The new 1.4 tsi engine both 1.4 and 1.5 are great engines with a belt.
Yeah the ea211 engines got changed to a belt because of how problematic the chain was in this engine
@@Fizzy.g Do you know when ea211 came out and if the belt actually have solved the issue? I mean a lousy 1.4 engine w. chain might have been replaced with lousy belt. For instance, in older Opel 1.6 petrol engine it was said the belt would hold 120000 km but it never did in the end they said change belt every 60000 km or after about 4 years or so... Expensive engine to maintain for sure.
The ea211 is meant to be quite a reliable engine and there hasn't been any major faults with it
@@Fizzy.g But unfurtunately high oil consumption is also prezent at Ea2111... Leon Mk3 1.4 tsi CMBA i try to find now where is the problem..Valve seals, or piston rings
Government is messing with the weather man
Trust meeee
Bro life's a conspiracy 😂😂
Avoided buying a 1.4 tsi scoda octavia. Got scared after reading about the engine, now im going for a 1.6 CR, think that is safer?
1.4 TSI is a solid car it's just it needs good maintenance aswell but yeah the 1.6 is good aswell
@@Fizzy.g its my first car ever so i dont trust my self😅
@@Fizzy.g Ended up buying a skoda octavia 2009, 95k km with 1.4 tsi, 122hp. Do you think service once a year is enough?
Only use Shell V Power in my 1.4 TSI Super Charged & Turbo Charged Fabia Vrs 👍😊 it tells you on the petrol cap what Ron petrol to use.
That's the one bro💯💯 most people don't look at it and ignore it and then complain when their engine dies
@@Fizzy.g so basic 95 fuel is ok/best for this engine?
Yeah 95 or higher is fine for the engine however it's good to run 1 tank of v power through it every few months
I'm buying a Japanese import 2014 1.2 TSI really good condition freshly serviced 60k but doesn't have service history everything in Chinese. Do you think I should get a new chain straight away?
I think before getting anew chain first see how it sounds on the cold start. If it rattles but then goes away once it's warm then it'll last you another few months but if it keeps rattling when warm the it'll need a chain as soon as possible
My mk6 1.6 2011 got total lost weeks ago. Now I found a mk6 1.4 tsi 2011, and a mk7 1.2 tsi 2014. Which one is worth?
If you don't do much work to cars and don't think you'll be able to take the extra little bits of time to look after the Mk6 such as always putting in premium 99 octane fuel. Always cold starting the car, making sure good quality oil goes in it and always service it on time then I'd suggest getting the Mk7 as it can take a bit more of a beating if you can look after it like that that then I'd say get the mk6 as it'll be more fun because it has more power
I have had a twin charged TSI since 2016. The timing chain + full kit must be changed. Don't think you can get around this. Mine had 60k miles and + 10 oil changes all done at VW and still needed it done.
- No need to use premium fuel. I have done so since 2016-2021, and it still needed to have the valves cleaned.
- Change the oil yourself every 7500 k km
- Injector problems
- Waterpump failure
- Spark plug and coils always needs changing
Other than that, the engine drives really great, but mines still shakes at idle and has misfires.
Yeah bro u do need to use premium fuel as the engine is factory tuned to run on 98 octane so anything lower can effect it. And every around 60k the chain should be changed and VW are also not gonna do the best service they use the cheapest parts and charge the most money to just make profit & yeah spark plugs and coils really count as maintenance but the injectors issues are maybe because of the wrong fuel has been used and waterpump u probably just got unlucky with it. the misfires and so on though thats most likely because of the wrong fuel
98 isn’t going to make the valves clean since it’s a direct injection engine. To keep the valves clean you should consider installing an oil catch can. Because the carbon you see on the valve stems are just oil and gunk that comes from the oil pan via the PCV hose.
Yeah to clean the valves you have to get them walnut blasted and then do a pcv delete or a catch can
Had the engine light come on mine the other day had it scanned p2188 code came up car running to rich on idle the engine light stayed on for a couple of days now its off have you had this problem with your golf
I haven't had that issue before. Check the map sensors, injectors & high pressure fuel pump it's probably one of those or maybe even an oxygen sensor
Bought a 1.4 TSI in November. Dealer did a basic service before I collected the car. I had a lot of lumpiness on cold start but also driving at low speed. Told a fuel injector needed replacing so had all 4 replaced. Which seemed to resolve the lumpiness initially but a couple of weeks on it's returned. The garage is stumped so I have booked the car in for them to investigate. I did fill up at a Tesco garage for convenience. Could this really be down to cheap fuel and oil?
Best thing to do is buy your own parts and go to a place where you can watch the garage fit the things you bought that way you know good quality parts are going into your car. If suggest getting a full service done if these parts haven't been changed recently so a oil & oil filter change, spark plugs, fuel filter, cabin filter and air filter. I have a video fitting most of them parts if you want to check that out aswell
The lumpiness on cold start is caused by carbon build up in the intake manifold precisely on the valves
Ohh ok yeah that would make sense
Please clarify if this is a general 1.4 TSI engine issue or related to specific engine models/years?
This is only for the 1.4 TSI engines between roughly 2007-2012 the ca-- engines
@@Fizzy.g thanks!
EA111
Yeah ea111
I would recommend all cars fill up with v power now even if your car has not got very good performance stats or especially if it's getting old. The government is trying to kill your car with E10, V power and other 99 octane fuels are the only non E10 fuels you can get now, my gess is E10 would kill these little reliable but sensitive 1.4 tsi 16v no problem. E5 only people
Yeah if your car recommends 97+ octane always use v power and whenever it says minimum octane never follow it always follow the recommended one
@@Fizzy.g i use to use 95 back when it was still E5 on my non turbo single cam volvo v70 because there is no point putting in v power being not a performance car thus not benefitting from the v power petrol unlike my T5 volvo. However i even started putting v power even in the slow non turbo single cam now only because i don't want to kill my non turbo with E10 its from 2001 as well so yeah it definitely wouldn't agree with E10.
Yeah just check to see if the stock tune can use 99 octane and if it can then it'll definitely benefit from it
Bout to buy a rocco with a 1.4 I can’t wait
Yhhhh mad. I was gonna get one but my insurance was too high on it even tho it had the same power😢
Do you think the same things apply for the 160bhp mk6? I love the car but having serious scares reliability wise
The 160bhp is the one that has even more problems the 122 that I have is the safer one. With the 160bhp just make sure it's always cold started and it's never pushed when the engine is cold. Also that engine Is designed for 97 octane fuel so don't use standard fuel in it use vpower from shell and also make sure to get your timing chain done if it hasn't been changed already and then keep up with regular services every year. The service will be the same as mine so if you want to check the oil change video that I made
I've found a real cheap 1.4 TSi MK5 140hp near me. I am really interested in the car but I am unsure whether I should get it or not. It is 50% cheaper than any other dealership near me, which I find quite odd.
Should I get it, or save up more money and eventually get me another car?
thats odd prob had something wrong then? did u buy it?
@@istoneyy4204 I didnt. Ended up buying a Ford Fiesta 125hp
I have a MK7 1.4tsi golf with 59k mileage, do u think I need to change the cambelt or do it at 60k.
I'd say get it changed when you can but its not an urgent issue however if your driving the car quite hard so shifting at high rpm and so on and using the car to its full potential then I'd say get it changed as soon as you can
Hey man I have 1.4 TSI my first car , bought it lik 2 weeks ago . I’m in Ireland what oil should I put in the car ? Don’t really know much about cars
I have a oil change video. ua-cam.com/video/nmC1_OHeZgE/v-deo.html
Also if you're looking to change spark plugs and add a performance air filter I also have videos on that. All parts that I use in my videos are linked in the description of that specific video
Haha i use tesco momentum now, i used to do shell v power all year long and i dont feel the difference haha, my car only needs 95 ron, but the price difference is not much different in my area atm so i just get the 99 ron. BTW great video boss and good explanation on the timing chain. My car was pretty reliable too like all the problems just randomly came at 60k miles haha, but everything is fixable and not too expensive apart from the clutch. These motors are very reliable, the supercharged one usually needs water pump replacement after like 40k miles i read somewhere as thats a common weak point on that model. Inshallah shell sponsor you haha, you should actually message them you never know
Yeah bro Tesco momentum is the only other petrol I'd recommended the rest are rubbish. v power and momentum are the same Uno both 99 Ron so just get the cheaper one. I haven't had any issues with mine alhamdulillah and mines just hit 100k. And yh trust me insha'Allah she'll sponsor me 😂😂😂 if I had free petrol I'd be sorted for life😂😂😂
@@Fizzy.g its possible bro you never know haha, like for my service video eurocarparts sponsored like 2 parts when i did it which reduced my cost of servicing, i also recently been sponsored by kings castle the food place which im really happy about. Chinese companies always wanting to sponsor too one recently sponsored me for the mk6 golf led lights, just ask around bro i think you will be able to get some keep persisting and your content is great so they will check your channel and will give it inshallah
Yeahhh that's mad bro mashAllah your doing sick bro. How do you even get these sponsorships with companies because if I can get some i can get some crazy content for u guys
@@Fizzy.g search what ever company you want such as say shell, search on google shell media contacts uk, you find the email and email them your proposal and what you looking to get off them, you will get a lot that dont reply, others that reject you, and then some will say yes so its worth trying you are a up and coming channel with a lot of growth good luck bro
Yeahhh mad. Only issue I have tho is I don't know what to say to them😂😂
hello, I really need help. 1.4 tsi 160 ps how to make sure that the engine works for many kilometers without problems? mention that in my country the quality of gasoline is rather poor. which additives are suitable? thank you very much
They can last for 200k+. Easily you just need to run 98+ octane fuel and always do oil changes on time
Yo bro is Costco fuel any good? I have a 1.6 diesel, is Costco premium fuel any good? Thanks bro, love your vids👍👊
I'll be honest I wouldn't suggest Costco fuel. For a diesel I'd say stick to using branded fuels as they usually have the better additives so shell, BP, Esso and whatever else there is. Out of them 3 I'd say shell is the best
Mine hasn't cold started for 3 days, don't know if somethings wrong with it but I just wait a minute before driving off
It won't always do that full cold start sending unless it thinks it needs to however yeah I would suggest waiting abt 2-3 mins before moving just to allow the oil pressure to increase and for it to warm up a little bit
I'm going to get a professional technician to inspect a 2010 twin charger TSI with 75000 miles that I'm interested in buying. Apart from his checks what additional check should I ask him to do. How do I know if the previous owner had looked after it - such as IF piston rings have gone through a lot of stress (metal fatigue can eventually cause metals to give way). Am I doing a risky business? I have some obsession with this car. BTW, I've just subscribed 🙂
Yeah that's the issue. You can't inspect what the last owner has done. Only way u can is with service stamps and judge the car as best as you can. A specialist can help and will still be safe to take a specialist to check it however it only reduces the risk it doesn't eliminate them. And thanks for subscribing 💯
May I ask you a bit silly question, is it worth to buy a Golf 1.4 TSI mark vi now?
I'd say yeah they're great cars. I even got mine only a year ago. Just make sure it has good service history and I would recommend giving it a good oil change when you buy it
@@Fizzy.g bro is yours 1.4 tsi 120? What sorta town mpg you get with it
Very very good on fuel I get around yeah it's the 122. I get around 37 on average and that's with mixed driving so flooring it sometime and in town if I drive eco I can get an easy 43+
What do you think about VW Beetle 2012 1.4 TSI 160hp, manual?
The car is good the engine isn't the best that's the twincharged engine
My big problem i have here, is i don't have SP95 Nearby, all station near have E10 (SP95-10Ethanol)
Thoo, my car got a reprogrammation to run on E85, so.. i should be fine no matter what i put in, i think.
Question thoo, What cooling liquid do you use, cause, i think i might have a problem with my water pump giving me a high pitch constant sound on the car idling. might have to change the pump.
I also have incar issues where, when it's super cold, i struggle to get the fog away, mostly, I haven't seen any humidity spot in my car
Oh if it's tuned to run on 95 Ron then that's fine.
Got a 1.4tsi gt 150bhp 100k miles for 4200 do u think that’s a good buy, I’ll make sure I do cold starts everytime and go to shell
Personally id avoid the whole twincharged one completely however if you are still going to get it the price is decent if anything you could maybe get it for 4000 and make sure timing chain is done straight away and only use v power from then on and it should be ok. If anything get it scanned with vcds every year just to see if any issues have popped up and atleast then you'll know if there are any major issues before they cause any damage
@@Fizzy.g ye I’ve got it mate dsg aswell 4200 not too bad and ye I’ll only use shell anyways cos it’s the closest one to me just need to make sure I service it every so often how often would u say ?
I'd say every 8000 miles / once a year. Whichever comes first
So if you put 98 octane petrol is bad also? Should put only 95 octane?
98 is ok for the engine. Anything above 95 is good but it's just cheaper to put in 95 and you won't gain any benefits from higher octane as the car hasn't been told how to use it
Timing chain is the issue with the cax 1.4tsi engine and I've replaced mine already and seen a few that have had 2 changes before 65000miles. It also has coolant line issues with the turbo/manifold with the o rings cooking themselves but not that serious at all
Yeah the coolant issues aren't too common and their not as major and yeah the timing chain goes as soon as it isn't treated right
@@Fizzy.g definitely right with that but I would recommend always allowing engine to warm up before driving and not leaving the car parked in gear. The timing chain is an issue and it's just down to sheer poor design as the guide was made of plastic on my oem VW chain and just wore through. A stage one remap or any remap also doesn't help the Chain to be fair
Yeah I put in the vid always cold start the car and never push it when it's cold. Yeah I heard something about a better revision of the timing chain but I'm not sure which one it is. Because I'm looking to put that on before I remap my car
@@Fizzy.g yes I think VW released a revised model with a thicker chain itself and metal based guide but they charge a hefty price for most oem parts
Do you know what it's called because I might get it depending on price
What's the typical cost of replacing the chain / tensioner? I was quoted over £800.
around £100 - 200 for parts and £150 - 300 for labour. id say around 450 all together from a good garage
Super informative. Really enjoyed this thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it
What do you think about Golf VI Plus 1,4 TSI 160 hp?
It's a good car aslong as you look after it. It's got the same engine as the 1.4 TSI 160hp standard golf
I want to buy 2010 1.2 tsi 223.000 km on it. And the Chain is replaced at 223xxx, new oil,new brakes. You Think Its relaible?
Yeah it's a solid engine. Just make sure u run it on good oil and fuel and always cold start it
@@Fizzy.g what u mean by cold start it?
When u start the car after leaving it off over a long period of time so around 8hrs + you'll see when you turn it on the revs will hold at round 1.1k and it'll sound a bit loud then after a minute or 2 it'll drop to the normal 900ish and then the car is ready to drive
@@Fizzy.g oké Thanks for reaction
👍🏽
The Mk6 1.4 is a great car let down by delicate / high maintenance engines and a crappy dry clutch DSG. All fine if you're buying nearly new but the older / more higher mileage you get, the more you're putting your hand into a basket of snakes....
Yeah exactly bro. Amazing engine if it's been maintained but after 1 person neglecting it then it just goes downhill. And I have no idea why they use the crappy dry dsg box and not the wet clutch on in the Gti's
Pretty handy video man!
Thanks bro💯💯
Hello i have golf 7 1.4 gt tsi 2013 122 hp and it consumes a loooot of oil - 500 km 1l oil I use castrol 5w30 LL what could be the problem?
I'd suggest switching to 5w 40 oil also take off the undertray and check under the car. If it's consuming a huge amount there's possibly a leak somewhere you might need to change a gasket somewhere
@@Fizzy.g i checked under car after after night in the morning, no leakage under ,i tried the smoke test giving gas in idle position , smoke was completely white. They told me engine revisie and costs 1500€.. But I feel they want to take an advantage that Im not so aknowledged and want to take my money.
Hmm I guess you could check it again. Clean the underneath first so then if oil does come out somewhere you'll see fresh oil. Also check the engine breather pipe and also ontop of the engine and the side to see if there is any oil. You basically need to find where this oil is going. Is it leaking out or is it burning it all
@@Fizzy.g Yes , once I saw on top of the engine between some place right on the top a small liquid of oil and I was wondering how can this occur there if the oil is under the engine. And it was so small that you can even wipe it good enough to check if it is oil or just water.
Im looking to buy that pretty much excatly that car, would you say that i should avoid it or are the problems managable?
Naa the problems are managable just make sure u maintain it. The main things are just make sure you cold start it before you start driving and once you hit 90°c then u can start pushing the car and go over 3k revs and then once every around 3 months check your oil
What oil do you recommend?
Castrol edge 5w 40 amzn.to/391SYpj
I have a full video on changing the oil and oil filter.
ua-cam.com/video/nmC1_OHeZgE/v-deo.html
i love my 1.4 tsi golf :)
yeah its a great car
Same
What do you think of the 1.6 fsi
Great engine. Just do general maintenance that you should do to any engine. So always service it every year. And always let the car cold start
@@Fizzy.g thanks for the reply, try and see the car I'm looking at if you can below
Hi, look what I've just found on Shpock: www.shpock.com/en-gb/i/YMfSxKYWBTcOF_zs/2006-volkswagen-golf
The seller told me that there's no issues, just that apparently the key needs to be put in ignition to open the boot
Im considering a 1.4 s (80bhp)...any thoughts?
Decent engine but a golf is too heavy for it if you were to get that engine I'd recommend a polo or equivalent
It’s not like that, The engine have knock sensor and when we refuel, higher octane fuel he change ignition, to better performance and economy?
Btw. I don’t think castrol is good, he leaves something like a red „grease” (I don’t now how to write this in english 😂) and polish mechanics recommend „liqui moly” or „motul” and you don’t think that 5w40 is not too „thick”? And better was be 5w30?
Yh but the simple version that most people will understand is basically don't put in the low octane fuel as it will damage the engine and I've checked many places and I've seen that liqui Moly and Castrol edge are both really good oil and professionals say to use 5w40 as it is thicker on engines that have over around 80k miles and cars that are remapped