Do not over-torque the bolts that go between the air intake housing and cylinder block. I over-torqued and ruined the new gaskets and ended up having to redo the job. If you do this job and you end up with random misfires the gasket is either miss aligned or ruined due to over-torquing. Wish I had watched this video prior, never would have guessed metal gaskets would only need 9NM to function properly.
Nicoya, this is the best comprehensive video and I have seen for this kind of repair. I will do as I see here and start wrenching. Thank you for sharing. This will help save some funds.
I can't thank you enough for this video. I really appreciate the time you took to explain everything and even pointing out that mistakes happen with the coolant reservoir line cracking as I have the same type of issues and it's good to hear I am not the only one that breaks things when trying to fix things....lol
I have done this 2 times . 1st the intake can be found for 150 on ebay . The Flap arm kit is 20 to 40. I did the intake 1 time but the arms the 2nd time. The 1st time I had to do the entire unit because I broke the last vacuum line plastic by twisting to remove the hose and it broke the plastic connector to the manifold WTF!!!! SO be careful remove the last hose, I wished I did not twist to remove as instructed to in a video I saw. Dont forget to buy gaskets for the intake and rear air flow meter. Great Video !!!!!!! I also remember on the drivers side rear something about the rear hose or something near the engine lift bracket that was a pain in the ass.
Excellent video I'm going to be stuck doing one of these intakes at work in the next couple of days and this was a perfect preparation. Thank you for being so thorough.
Great instructions with good sound. Great shots of some good mechanic work. Man, if I made videos this is the quality I would shoot for. One of the best automotive jobs posted on UA-cam.
Just finished my manifold service based on your video! Thank you for a great detailed work. One thing that I'm not sure I've done right - I haven't applied any blue loctite on bolts that holds manifold. Used same torque 80inch.
Great video helped me a ton I would suggest when disconnecting old manifold it is easier to disconnect vacuum hose from change over valve from yellow plastic hose instead of disconnecting it from manifold itself. Mine was stuck so bad and I was afraid I will break the hose so I disconnected it from change over valve to the left of the engine then you can feed it back when reinstalling and reconnect it.
@@klajdistari827 first time I did it it took me 2 hours. After replacing the parts using kit I was still having issues with low power in lower rpms. Turned out I needed to replace change over valves at the front of the manifold so I had to take it out second time lol Second time though it took me only and hour so not a big deal it just sucks that every time you take it off got to change gaskets and bolts so it adds extra cost. Next time if anything needs replacing I will just replace whole manifold lol
Very cool video thank you for all this information, i had this done once already and i even ordered the metal flapper kit and it still failed. Now im getting p2015 amd the car is running horribly. The fix only lasted less than 2 years if that. This looks insane to do but maybe i can tackle this on my own this time to try to save alittle money. Thanks again, not even looking fwd to this 😅
Thank you very much for this Video. Just finished changing the intake manifold on my R350, did it exactly like you showed it... works great now in first try... Two bolts left over... hehe
Hi there. Excellent video. I scanned my car this morning and found the same you code and message you displayed at the beginning of the video. No check engine light and no performance issues as far as I am aware. I had scanned it to see if I could find a short that has been draining the battery, and I thought it would be this since it says "short circuit to ground of sensor wires". But I didn't hear you talk about a short and I don't see anything in the comments. Is this something you had experienced? Could this "short" be causing a draw on the battery so that it can drain overnight? Thanks in advance, and love the detail and tips in your video!
Great video. I also have a broken actuator arm on a 2007 C280. My question is "Is it necessary to replace the entire intake manifold if all I need to do is replace the actuator arm with an aluminum one?"
The problem is. There could be a problem internally with the manifold which caused that linkage to break. So it’s not worth trying to find out which was which. So it’s best to replace the manifold
@@adamharris2674 Assume all the I.M. (inside & out) plastic bits are the same age. They all get brittle & heat damaged with time (horrid design). If one plastic part breaks, any of the others may not be far behind. If internal plastic parts break, they can be sucked into the engine & then you're removing the head, looking for even deeper damage. You could remove the old I.M. & dismantle it to inspect for internal damage of the plastic bits, but then what? Maybe you can order internal I.M. plastic parts & replace, but that's a lot of extra legwork & labor. Also, if you DO find broken I.M. plastic internals (& can't account for missing broken parts), you most certainly need to pull the head, or at least bore-scope the cylinders. Most ppl prefer to cut their losses with I.M. replacement & reset the age/heat fatigue clock with the complete set of new plastic parts.
Great video. I bought the kit as well but I broke the tumble flap mounting screw off inside the manifold and ended up buying a new manifold. I'd like to install the aluminum bracket on the new manifold but I'm afraid to remove the actuator screw off the new manifold. Did the screw back out easy for you?
Hi great video and info thank you. May I as you a question, is there any reason to use the Pierberg intake over the OEM unit? The reason I ask is my SLK 280 R171 went to my local independent 8 days ish for a new intake. I have had it back and it ran smooth and lively. The next day it wouldnt start. Its all been stripped down and checked all ok but not right. My mechanic now thinks its a faulty intake and my local dealer has now picked it up and are looking in to it. They have had it a week and I am still waiting. Any ideas? I am hoping they will replace the rear subframe f.o.c once the inlet manifold sorted. Kind regards
Hi everyone, amazing vide very helpful I have a c class w204 2008 350 petrol auto and i have a -- Dlagnosis of tumble flap 'Intake manifold`: Open circuit of sensor lines/T umble flap shafts stick in the non actuated position. (P2006) It is something like in the video? Thank you so much
Great video, i have. 2009 that has a misfire in cylinder fove, changed injector/coil/spark plugs still getting the misfire. Do you think this will be fixed with a new intake manifold?
@@joelgutierrez9780 Try a compression test. You need to figure out why it’s miss firing before you can do anything else. Try swapping components with that cylinder and see if it switches. Also make sure that the electrical part of the injectors are working correctly.
Thank you very much 👍🏻 Very helpful video for me, I have the car with this engine 3 days, so good to know what is up 😉 I have the P0172 P0175 (I hope the MAF change will solve it with the throttle flap clean and adaptation), and at the cold engine goes P0410. Best regards from Prague, Michal 🇨🇿
An absolutely fantastic, well thought out and produced video. I am ready to tackle this job. Thank you very much. By the way... how is your engine bay so clean?!
This is my brothers car. Not really sure how he keeps the engine bay so clean. I would imagine that he pressure washes it from time to time. That's what I do with my vehicles.
Great vid very thorough. Do you think the battery should be unplugged if I am doing this job and I do not fully unplug the ecu or disconnect the spark plug coils? Also I do not have any codes but I believe my manifold has some leak somewhere as I hear a high pitched whistle noise coming from the front of the manifold when the car is running. I sprayed it with brakecleaner and it goes away temporarily and the engine shakes. Is this likely a bad manifold?
@@InitechAuto could I repair this leak by replacing just hose or do I need to change the whole manifold? Also I smell oil burning in the car when I step on the throttle hard. Is this a sign of a bad manifold? The pcv was changed like a year ago.
@@InitechAuto I was thinking it may be possibly coming out the oil filler cap from the intake manifold related leak could it be pressurizing the head and forcing air out the cap area? I had recently replaced an oil filler cap that was cracked and wasn’t sure why and I see oil around the cap and sometimes above it on the car hood. It’s a theory I have but is this plausible?
I’m having the misfire issues in my CLK350. I relaxed the runner flap/lever. Ran good for about a week. Problem started again. Think I’m gonna replace the whole thing myself. Mind if I ask where you got yours from?
Thanks so much for this. After watching this, I ended up changing mine. However, the check engine is still on. After doing a reset, there are no more codes, but the check engine is still on. Does it take a while for it to go off?
this is by far one of the best videos of how to do this job. I am getting the p2004 code, however the car runs and drives just fine. I looked at the lever actuator and played with it, and it seems to move just fine, im not sure why im getting the code. did you have to replace the manifold, could you have just replaced the lever with the new part and kept the original manifold?
They do sell a repair kit for it. The problem is, you don’t know if something internally in the manifold caused the lever in the front to break in the first place. That is the reason for replacing the manifold. You’ll see in the video that I upgraded the new one with the kit.
W203 c230, engine runs great. Low RPM idle and a little above, I have a RANDOM skip. P2006 code. Would a random miss fall under this? I would think it would be a constant miss. Great video by the way.
May I ask, what bolts were installed at 21:19? Also, thank you for sharing such an in-depth and comprehensive video. Gained a lot of knowledge from this.
Thank you for the video! Did you use 6mm x 1.0 tap or M6 x 1.0 tap (which is actually 5mm x 1.0)? 6mm is M7 and just looks too wide. It won’t screw in to the old manifold but M6 x 1.0 will. Don’t want to tap a hole too wide.
Great video. Best step by step I've seen. Thank you very much. I'm going to try this. What size tap did you use for the self-tapping? Thanks in advance.
You replaced the 3.5-4 in. Hose. Is that the one you snipped? You also bought new seals for the fuel rail. Wire brushed the intake. Anything else you'd recommend replacing or doing while manifold is off?
@Nicoya at 28:10 you plugged in a hose. I have a 2011 and I don't have that hose. The replaced manifold has some type of plug that goes on there. The new one didn't come with it. So i removed it and put it on the new one.
Man, I'm confused.. when you are tapping the threads are you tapping only the beginning or the whole thread to the bottom because I think these holes are meant to be self-tapped, and the holes for self-tapping bolts are bigger than the ones that are for tapping with a tap so that would weaken a bit the connection.. idk I'm overthinking too much
Very good video and well narrated. I’m a DIY, Is it required to clean the injectors before replacing the new O-rings and how and what would you use to clean the o-rings? What lubricant did you use on the O-rings? Thanks in advance for you help.Again... very nice video.
I would just wipe off the injectors with a rag and some carb clean. No need to pull them off the fuel rail. The "O" rings I lightly lubed with transmission assembly lube. You can use any lube that is safe for "O" rings.
do you by any chance if this issue can also be with a p2015 code? also can we just run the bolts until they bottom out or do we have to tap? does it make a difference? also does that vacuum hose have to be replaced? did you by any hoses? thank you
That is a sensor code. You need to trouble shoot that code and see if it's an electrical problem. The manifold bolts can be just screwed on. They are self-tapping screws. The vacuum hose should be replaced IMO.
Where can I buy the vaccum hose line that you have to cut off? Is there any other way to fix that line or what exact part to buy? Any help is much appreciated
@@InitechAuto thanks, I bought a vaccum lime from auto zone, do I have to cut all the black rubber vaccum hose off and connect the new vaccum hose? Or do I leave the pieces on there? My vaccum rubber hose broke in half while taking jt out
@@Phil-vx1vr Yes, just replace the entire rubber hose. Just pull it off the plastic tube that it is attached to. All you need is about 4 inches of the vacuum line.
@@InitechAuto Does mercedes use a specific size or type of vacuum line? I purchased some vacuum line at autozone as well but it didn't have the same feel as the mercedes kind. Also says it is used for windshield washer fluid will this work?
I have a C230 2006 These few days, I have been receiving battery/alternator red light and the check engine light as well. The engine starts shaking right after. It happened once when I ignite the car from idle and once while driving. When I pull off to the workshop and check the battery and alternator, the output were just fine. Then the workshop scanned with an OBD II, which diagnosed with 0522 P2006. Should I replace the tumble flap sensor as shown in the video? Or would it be something else. Thanks a lot, your advice would be much appreciated
What I would recommend. Is to clear the codes and see what comes back. If you get the code P2006 again, then you would need the repair as described in this video. As for your battery light coming on. You need to take a good look at the battery, alternator and connections to make sure everything is ok.
Awesome video!!! I have a major issue now… I did everything exactly the way you did in the video; only- my car sat without starting up for about two weeks. I finished the job today and when I went to start my car the battery was completely dead. I hooked up some jumper cables and let it charge for a while (5 mins). I tried starting it after about 5 minutes and I got a “click” sounded like it was coming from the starter. I waited another 5 minutes and it cranked over but then you can hear the starter motor just spinning without making the car crank fully. It made a whirring noise like when you’re starter is going bad. I let the battery charge for another 5-10 minutes and when I tried cranking it over, there was no information on my dash (no mileage, gas gauge kept clicking as if it was resetting similar to when the battery is low or dead,no lights on my dash/instrument cluster and the headlights were flashing continuously as if the alarm was set off. I have no idea on what to do now and I don’t know who to ask. Any suggestions or guesses on what the problem might be ? Please get back to me.. or if anyone has information about this please comment. Thanks!!!!
Make sure the battery is good and fully charged. If you have a bad battery. Charging it will be useless. From what you are describing. Your problem seems to be battery related. Also make sure your connections are good and clean. You can also remove the battery. And take it to any automotive store and have them test it.
I'm having that problem now I just ordered a new 1 does it have to be program and also my fan is running high like a turbo when the car is running could that be the cause of the problem plz help the car runs great except for the fan no over heating
The computer does not have to be reprogrammed for the new intake manifold. Check your fan relay for sticking. Also connect a scanner and see if the fan is being commanded on. Thats all the advise I can give at the moment. It is New Year's Eve... Having a good time. Hope all works out for you. Thanks for watching!
I got the same code scanning the car. (I don't have a check engine light) Anyway, how long can I go for with out fixing this yet? Also, where are you located? And how much would a job like this cost? (Labor)
Don't know how long you can drive with the problem. The car in the video was being driven and they were unaware that they had a problem. Labor is probably about 3 to 4 hours.
What happens long term if you keep driving with broken intake manifold rod tumble flap? Only smoothness of engine operation CO2 or ?? (if engine light is not on dashboard just codes)
Probably nothing. This was my brothers car and he noticed nothing wrong with the car. I found this problem when I was servicing his car and checked for codes. But I would imagine that there would be some low end performance loss.
@@InitechAuto Yes. Same here. I popped my car for service B and report came back that intake manifold rod thumble rod is broken but I noticed nothing. There was still even difference between SPORT and COMFORT drives. But retrospectively I do remember commenting to my son few times that the car was much more powerful first few minutes of driving from cold. I thought this was simply because of choke of some kind. Will see once new one is IN. I declined this repair at first because I had no idea what intake manifold is. I grew up with chokes:) But I think it is worth doing. And rather all not just repair kit. If anyone wondering how much Mercedes quoted for replacement of whole manifold it is $5480 AUD - May 2024. There is one silver lining in this. I asked them to thoroughly detail engine surface when manifold is out (and photo of it). That way entire engine bay will look like new!
question, why you rather put a new manifold instead of using the repair kit which has the update plastics to aluminiun ? i just got the code p2006 and my manifold was replaced by previous owner 50k miles ago and now i am thinking just to replace the plastic piece to aluminium. please advise
The reason being is this vehicle had over 100k miles on it. The flapper valves fail internally as well and can cause the linkage to break. I did not want to take the chance on just repairing the manifold. The manifold replacement is the recommended repair by Mercedes Benz.
@@InitechAuto I just inspected mine and nothing is broken in front , just makes a squeaking noise when I move it with hand . It’s a little rough when it bounces back once I push it
@@InitechAuto do you have a email address that I can send you a video of my intake manifold ? The plastic piece that comes from valve seems very loose from inside .
@@InitechAuto even if one side got stuck in a closed position? That would mean three entire side would be lean and no air. Also they use it at a mail truck in rural areas.
I lost my vacuum line configuration I have one for the egr and from the right port on intake goes to map sensor, where does the 3rd line go ???from the small check valve, any help thank u
@@InitechAuto thanks thats what I’m going to do, do you know the size of the vacuum hose In the front? Are the hoses different sizes or can i get a roll and cut as i needed?. Thanks
Lo que estás describiendo es una falla de encendido en esos cilindros. Deberías llevarlo al taller que hizo la reparación y ver si ellos fueron los causantes. Haz que revisen los inyectores y los conectores.
All parts were purchased at www.autohausaz.com Intake manifold with gaskets and fuel injector "O" rings. I don't remember where I purchased the upgrade kit.
@@InitechAuto I think the throttle body gasket is also needed. 6x Fuel Injector Seal, Lower Throttle body housing gasket Left intake manifold gasket Right intake manifold gasket The intake manifold itself Maybe a few hoses that will split when removed for this service.
I get a price for intake manifold (911$)+ gasket set replacement (17.79) parts + labor 494. Mercedes c300 2011 . Is this normal price ? I live in Florida
Hello! After the install, the engine runs in a rough low idle. It almost stalls, then goes up to a high idle and falls to idle again, rinse and repeat. Any Idea what might be the cause for this? Untight gasket? Broken wire?
@@InitechAuto Thanks! We uninstalled the throttle body again an noticed that it wasn't bolted on properly, so it definatly drew air past the mass air flow sensor. Your video was a great help.
one last question. I'm going to order a new intake and i am trying to make sure i get the correct tap for the screws. Is M6×1.0 what im looking for. Thank you for your speedy response. This is my first time trying this and since i already have it out i may as well try to finish. ,@@InitechAuto
I have no idea. It all depends on what region of the country you live in. And what the labor rates are. For the particular shop that gave you the quote
@@InitechAuto I gave him a good price. He brought me that damn Dorman part to fix it.. Problem is. then other two round things the control arm connects to are broke as well. You can see up in the intake though them...Then he didn't want to replace the intake gasket. Said use the old ones. Now they leak like hell.. I'm done with it...told him go buy a whole new intake. Gasket set and some vacuum line. As they are brittle to the touch..
@@WizzRacing Yea, trying to repair it the cheap way can lead to problems. I would have charged him 300 to 400 dollars plus parts. A new manifold and gaskets and any misc parts. Whenever I get customers that don't want to spend the money and do right. I just send them down the road. Not worth my time.
This is one of the best 'how-to' videos that I've seen. Job well done! Thank You!
This is definitely one of the best videos on this issue, thanks for sharing your expertise in so much detail. I’m sure it took a long time.
Do not over-torque the bolts that go between the air intake housing and cylinder block. I over-torqued and ruined the new gaskets and ended up having to redo the job. If you do this job and you end up with random misfires the gasket is either miss aligned or ruined due to over-torquing. Wish I had watched this video prior, never would have guessed metal gaskets would only need 9NM to function properly.
Nicoya, this is the best comprehensive video and I have seen for this kind of repair. I will do as I see here and start wrenching. Thank you for sharing. This will help save some funds.
I can't thank you enough for this video. I really appreciate the time you took to explain everything and even pointing out that mistakes happen with the coolant reservoir line cracking as I have the same type of issues and it's good to hear I am not the only one that breaks things when trying to fix things....lol
I have done this 2 times . 1st the intake can be found for 150 on ebay . The Flap arm kit is 20 to 40. I did the intake 1 time but the arms the 2nd time. The 1st time I had to do the entire unit because I broke the last vacuum line plastic by twisting to remove the hose and it broke the plastic connector to the manifold WTF!!!! SO be careful remove the last hose, I wished I did not twist to remove as instructed to in a video I saw. Dont forget to buy gaskets for the intake and rear air flow meter.
Great Video !!!!!!! I also remember on the drivers side rear something about the rear hose or something near the engine lift bracket that was a pain in the ass.
Is their no way to get to the front of it without removing the whole thing if you just change the lever.
Excellent video I'm going to be stuck doing one of these intakes at work in the next couple of days and this was a perfect preparation. Thank you for being so thorough.
Glad you found it helpful.
Great instructions with good sound. Great shots of some good mechanic work. Man, if I made videos this is the quality I would shoot for. One of the best automotive jobs posted on UA-cam.
Thank you for the compliments! Glad you enjoyed the video.
Great video! Thank you so much!
Just did this in my e350 wagon with your help when no local mechanic would touch it!
The most detailed video I’ve watched. Great job!!👏🏿
Im about to do all this! Thank you for this video ✌️
Just finished my manifold service based on your video! Thank you for a great detailed work. One thing that I'm not sure I've done right - I haven't applied any blue loctite on bolts that holds manifold. Used same torque 80inch.
The bolts do not require Loctite.
Very helpful. I followed you the whole way through with no issues. Thank you.
Great video helped me a ton I would suggest when disconnecting old manifold it is easier to disconnect vacuum hose from change over valve from yellow plastic hose instead of disconnecting it from manifold itself. Mine was stuck so bad and I was afraid I will break the hose so I disconnected it from change over valve to the left of the engine then you can feed it back when reinstalling and reconnect it.
Excellent Rework Procedure ! Thank you for your hard work !
Thank you for the detailed video. Great job.
Great video, it helped me complete this job at home with zero issues.
how long it took you? did you buy new manifold or just the repair kit?
@@klajdistari827 first time I did it it took me 2 hours. After replacing the parts using kit I was still having issues with low power in lower rpms. Turned out I needed to replace change over valves at the front of the manifold so I had to take it out second time lol Second time though it took me only and hour so not a big deal it just sucks that every time you take it off got to change gaskets and bolts so it adds extra cost. Next time if anything needs replacing I will just replace whole manifold lol
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and creating this video very easy to follow and complete the job correctly best video I found for this repair!!:)
Very cool video thank you for all this information, i had this done once already and i even ordered the metal flapper kit and it still failed. Now im getting p2015 amd the car is running horribly. The fix only lasted less than 2 years if that. This looks insane to do but maybe i can tackle this on my own this time to try to save alittle money. Thanks again, not even looking fwd to this 😅
Best video on this repair. Thank you.
I coolant sensor wire here was missing in 10 prior videos. thanks.
Great video and very well detailed and narrated I enjoy watching your videos keep up the great work stay safe and God bless you
Thanks man you did good job. Appreciate you.🙏🏾
Great presentation, excellent on all fronts!
Thank you very much for this Video.
Just finished changing the intake manifold on my R350, did it exactly like you showed it... works great now in first try...
Two bolts left over... hehe
Glad it helped
What a fantastic bit of film work .Thanks so much it took me 10Hr to complete but works a treet
You're welcome! Glad it helped!
Well done brother and thank you for sharing.
Thanks for the great video. No need to unplug main battery (-) before removing pcm connector?
No
Great video and commentary AAA🤙
Pretty good video, very well explained thanks
Hi there. Excellent video. I scanned my car this morning and found the same you code and message you displayed at the beginning of the video. No check engine light and no performance issues as far as I am aware. I had scanned it to see if I could find a short that has been draining the battery, and I thought it would be this since it says "short circuit to ground of sensor wires". But I didn't hear you talk about a short and I don't see anything in the comments. Is this something you had experienced? Could this "short" be causing a draw on the battery so that it can drain overnight? Thanks in advance, and love the detail and tips in your video!
Excellent - thank you for the all the hard work.
I like the way you did this video Man...Thank you
Glad you liked it!
Great video. I also have a broken actuator arm on a 2007 C280. My question is "Is it necessary to replace the entire intake manifold if all I need to do is replace the actuator arm with an aluminum one?"
The problem is. There could be a problem internally with the manifold which caused that linkage to break. So it’s not worth trying to find out which was which. So it’s best to replace the manifold
Ok, but if the runners open and close easily by hand wouldn’t that mean the the old manifold is ok? Just the plastic bracket got brittle and snapped.
@@adamharris2674 Assume all the I.M. (inside & out) plastic bits are the same age. They all get brittle & heat damaged with time (horrid design). If one plastic part breaks, any of the others may not be far behind. If internal plastic parts break, they can be sucked into the engine & then you're removing the head, looking for even deeper damage. You could remove the old I.M. & dismantle it to inspect for internal damage of the plastic bits, but then what? Maybe you can order internal I.M. plastic parts & replace, but that's a lot of extra legwork & labor. Also, if you DO find broken I.M. plastic internals (& can't account for missing broken parts), you most certainly need to pull the head, or at least bore-scope the cylinders. Most ppl prefer to cut their losses with I.M. replacement & reset the age/heat fatigue clock with the complete set of new plastic parts.
Very professional and best video.thanks
Great video. I bought the kit as well but I broke the tumble flap mounting screw off inside the manifold and ended up buying a new manifold. I'd like to install the aluminum bracket on the new manifold but I'm afraid to remove the actuator screw off the new manifold. Did the screw back out easy for you?
There was some resistance. But I did come out. Just slowly work it back-and-forth until you get it out.
Hi great video and info thank you. May I as you a question, is there any reason to use the Pierberg intake over the OEM unit? The reason I ask is my SLK 280 R171 went to my local independent 8 days ish for a new intake. I have had it back and it ran smooth and lively. The next day it wouldnt start. Its all been stripped down and checked all ok but not right. My mechanic now thinks its a faulty intake and my local dealer has now picked it up and are looking in to it. They have had it a week and I am still waiting. Any ideas? I am hoping they will replace the rear subframe f.o.c once the inlet manifold sorted. Kind regards
From Atlanta Thank you very much sir for this video
I have 2008 E350 with code P2004.
Thank you for the video sir.
After that will need to reprogramming the flap or the manifold?
Thx
No reprogramming will be necessary
Would you recommend disconnecting battery/batteries before this project? Great video! Thank you
In my opinion, I don’t feel it’s necessary.
Hi everyone, amazing vide very helpful
I have a c class w204 2008 350 petrol auto and i have a -- Dlagnosis of tumble flap 'Intake manifold`: Open circuit of sensor
lines/T umble flap shafts stick in the non actuated position. (P2006)
It is something like in the video?
Thank you so much
Best tutorial ever! ❤❤❤💯
Great video, i have. 2009 that has a misfire in cylinder fove, changed injector/coil/spark plugs still getting the misfire. Do you think this will be fixed with a new intake manifold?
I would say no.
What do you suggest i try next?
@@joelgutierrez9780 Try a compression test. You need to figure out why it’s miss firing before you can do anything else. Try swapping components with that cylinder and see if it switches. Also make sure that the electrical part of the injectors are working correctly.
Did you figure it out? I saw also a video where a guy changed the coils wiring cables and fixed it
Thank you very much 👍🏻 Very helpful video for me, I have the car with this engine 3 days, so good to know what is up 😉 I have the P0172 P0175 (I hope the MAF change will solve it with the throttle flap clean and adaptation), and at the cold engine goes P0410. Best regards from Prague, Michal 🇨🇿
Ahh so Mercedes goes all out on the interior and tech, but cheaps out under the hood. Gotcha!
nah, even the tech is cheap. electrical problems everywhere.
Except for older models
Professional Video. Good work.
Thank you very much!
Outstanding video, thank you
An absolutely fantastic, well thought out and produced video. I am ready to tackle this job. Thank you very much. By the way... how is your engine bay so clean?!
This is my brothers car. Not really sure how he keeps the engine bay so clean. I would imagine that he pressure washes it from time to time. That's what I do with my vehicles.
Great video! Thank you
Hey, how many hours do you think this requires? Was thinking about doing it myself.
Depending on your skill level. It should take 3 to 4 hours.
Great vid very thorough. Do you think the battery should be unplugged if I am doing this job and I do not fully unplug the ecu or disconnect the spark plug coils? Also I do not have any codes but I believe my manifold has some leak somewhere as I hear a high pitched whistle noise coming from the front of the manifold when the car is running. I sprayed it with brakecleaner and it goes away temporarily and the engine shakes. Is this likely a bad manifold?
Sounds like you have a vacuum leak.
You don’t have to disconnect the battery. But then again it’s never a bad idea.
@@InitechAuto could I repair this leak by replacing just hose or do I need to change the whole manifold? Also I smell oil burning in the car when I step on the throttle hard. Is this a sign of a bad manifold? The pcv was changed like a year ago.
@@Dnasty1 Isolate your vacuum leak and oil leak. Then repair accordingly. The oil leak will not be from the manifold.
@@InitechAuto I was thinking it may be possibly coming out the oil filler cap from the intake manifold related leak could it be pressurizing the head and forcing air out the cap area? I had recently replaced an oil filler cap that was cracked and wasn’t sure why and I see oil around the cap and sometimes above it on the car hood. It’s a theory I have but is this plausible?
I’m having the misfire issues in my CLK350. I relaxed the runner flap/lever. Ran good for about a week. Problem started again. Think I’m gonna replace the whole thing myself. Mind if I ask where you got yours from?
www.autohausaz.com/
Thanks so much for this. After watching this, I ended up changing mine. However, the check engine is still on. After doing a reset, there are no more codes, but the check engine is still on. Does it take a while for it to go off?
What code is being stored? You should have no check engine light on.
this is by far one of the best videos of how to do this job. I am getting the p2004 code, however the car runs and drives just fine. I looked at the lever actuator and played with it, and it seems to move just fine, im not sure why im getting the code. did you have to replace the manifold, could you have just replaced the lever with the new part and kept the original manifold?
They do sell a repair kit for it. The problem is, you don’t know if something internally in the manifold caused the lever in the front to break in the first place. That is the reason for replacing the manifold. You’ll see in the video that I upgraded the new one with the kit.
W203 c230, engine runs great. Low RPM idle and a little above, I have a RANDOM skip. P2006 code. Would a random miss fall under this? I would think it would be a constant miss. Great video by the way.
The car in the video did not have a miss. It seemed to run fine. Just had that code popping up.
@@InitechAuto thank you
May I ask, what bolts were installed at 21:19? Also, thank you for sharing such an in-depth and comprehensive video. Gained a lot of knowledge from this.
There were the bolts you have most of. Same as the harness bolts.
@@InitechAuto I never expected such a swift reply! Thank you so very much.
Thank you for the video! Did you use 6mm x 1.0 tap or M6 x 1.0 tap (which is actually 5mm x 1.0)? 6mm is M7 and just looks too wide. It won’t screw in to the old manifold but M6 x 1.0 will. Don’t want to tap a hole too wide.
I used 6mm x 1.0. Not sure I really understand your question. Check your bolts and just match whatever the bolts are to be safe.
Great video. Best step by step I've seen. Thank you very much. I'm going to try this. What size tap did you use for the self-tapping? Thanks in advance.
In the video at 13:55 6mm X 1.0 tap.
@@InitechAuto Thank you! The pre-tapping is a great idea.
You replaced the 3.5-4 in. Hose. Is that the one you snipped? You also bought new seals for the fuel rail. Wire brushed the intake. Anything else you'd recommend replacing or doing while manifold is off?
Yes the hose I snipped is the one I replaced. That is pretty much it. GL
@Nicoya at 28:10 you plugged in a hose. I have a 2011 and I don't have that hose. The replaced manifold has some type of plug that goes on there. The new one didn't come with it. So i removed it and put it on the new one.
@@OsamaThizzladin As long as it works is all that matters.
Man, I'm confused.. when you are tapping the threads are you tapping only the beginning or the whole thread to the bottom because I think these holes are meant to be self-tapped, and the holes for self-tapping bolts are bigger than the ones that are for tapping with a tap so that would weaken a bit the connection.. idk I'm overthinking too much
Yes, you are overthinking it. Just tap them all the way.
@Nicoya...Peace & blessings! What silicone did you use to keep the gaskets in place. Did you use it on the whole gasket?
You can use any silicone. It’s just to hold it in place. Do not use it on the whole manifold.
@@InitechAuto i used Pro Seal Black RTV Silicone Instant Gasket formula. Thanks I million!
God Bless you for the video. thank you.
Is this OEM part? If not any problem so far?.i see some after market one on the Amazon and ebay
Yes, this is an OEM part.
Thank you sir for this video.
Very good video and well narrated. I’m a DIY, Is it required to clean the injectors before replacing the new O-rings and how and what would you use to clean the o-rings? What lubricant did you use on the O-rings? Thanks in advance for you help.Again... very nice video.
I would just wipe off the injectors with a rag and some carb clean. No need to pull them off the fuel rail. The "O" rings I lightly lubed with transmission assembly lube. You can use any lube that is safe for "O" rings.
Thank you for the information and quick response!!!
do you by any chance if this issue can also be with a p2015 code? also can we just run the bolts until they bottom out or do we have to tap? does it make a difference? also does that vacuum hose have to be replaced? did you by any hoses? thank you
That is a sensor code. You need to trouble shoot that code and see if it's an electrical problem. The manifold bolts can be just screwed on. They are self-tapping screws. The vacuum hose should be replaced IMO.
Could you have just replaced just the broken piece? Or does the whole intake have to be replaced? Awesome video by the way.
It’s best to replace the complete manifold. Reason being, it could be an internal problem that caused the breakage of the linkage.
I have code P0012 for 2008 E350 I already change oil bit it came back again do you know what is the causing is this sensor?
Great job coach 💯👍
Where can I buy the vaccum hose line that you have to cut off? Is there any other way to fix that line or what exact part to buy? Any help is much appreciated
Any auto parts should the vacuum line.
@@InitechAuto thanks, I bought a vaccum lime from auto zone, do I have to cut all the black rubber vaccum hose off and connect the new vaccum hose? Or do I leave the pieces on there? My vaccum rubber hose broke in half while taking jt out
@@Phil-vx1vr Yes, just replace the entire rubber hose. Just pull it off the plastic tube that it is attached to. All you need is about 4 inches of the vacuum line.
@@InitechAuto Does mercedes use a specific size or type of vacuum line? I purchased some vacuum line at autozone as well but it didn't have the same feel as the mercedes kind. Also says it is used for windshield washer fluid will this work?
@@Dnasty1 It will work as long as it fits. I don't remember tha actual size. 5/32 maybe?
I have a C230 2006
These few days, I have been receiving battery/alternator red light and the check engine light as well. The engine starts shaking right after. It happened once when I ignite the car from idle and once while driving. When I pull off to the workshop and check the battery and alternator, the output were just fine. Then the workshop scanned with an OBD II, which diagnosed with 0522 P2006. Should I replace the tumble flap sensor as shown in the video? Or would it be something else. Thanks a lot, your advice would be much appreciated
What I would recommend. Is to clear the codes and see what comes back. If you get the code P2006 again, then you would need the repair as described in this video. As for your battery light coming on. You need to take a good look at the battery, alternator and connections to make sure everything is ok.
Great video thanks a lot
Awesome video!!! I have a major issue now… I did everything exactly the way you did in the video; only- my car sat without starting up for about two weeks. I finished the job today and when I went to start my car the battery was completely dead. I hooked up some jumper cables and let it charge for a while (5 mins). I tried starting it after about 5 minutes and I got a “click” sounded like it was coming from the starter. I waited another 5 minutes and it cranked over but then you can hear the starter motor just spinning without making the car crank fully. It made a whirring noise like when you’re starter is going bad. I let the battery charge for another 5-10 minutes and when I tried cranking it over, there was no information on my dash (no mileage, gas gauge kept clicking as if it was resetting similar to when the battery is low or dead,no lights on my dash/instrument cluster and the headlights were flashing continuously as if the alarm was set off. I have no idea on what to do now and I don’t know who to ask. Any suggestions or guesses on what the problem might be ? Please get back to me.. or if anyone has information about this please comment. Thanks!!!!
Make sure the battery is good and fully charged. If you have a bad battery. Charging it will be useless. From what you are describing. Your problem seems to be battery related. Also make sure your connections are good and clean. You can also remove the battery. And take it to any automotive store and have them test it.
@@InitechAuto thank you
Hello, great Video!! What is the thread size you had to tap?
The answer is at 13:56 in the video. 6X1 tap
Thanks so much! Doing this job tomorrow. I’m feel pretty confident! 👍🏻
I'm having that problem now I just ordered a new 1 does it have to be program and also my fan is running high like a turbo when the car is running could that be the cause of the problem plz help the car runs great except for the fan no over heating
The computer does not have to be reprogrammed for the new intake manifold. Check your fan relay for sticking. Also connect a scanner and see if the fan is being commanded on. Thats all the advise I can give at the moment. It is New Year's Eve... Having a good time. Hope all works out for you. Thanks for watching!
@@InitechAuto ty bruh I appreciate that
Is their no way to get to the front of it with removing stuff where, without removing the whole thing if you just change the lever.
Not that I am aware of.
I got the same code scanning the car. (I don't have a check engine light) Anyway, how long can I go for with out fixing this yet? Also, where are you located? And how much would a job like this cost? (Labor)
Don't know how long you can drive with the problem. The car in the video was being driven and they were unaware that they had a problem. Labor is probably about 3 to 4 hours.
@@InitechAuto Are you in new york city or new jersey?
@@nycliving9514 Arizona
What happens long term if you keep driving with broken intake manifold rod tumble flap? Only smoothness of engine operation CO2 or ?? (if engine light is not on dashboard just codes)
Probably nothing. This was my brothers car and he noticed nothing wrong with the car. I found this problem when I was servicing his car and checked for codes. But I would imagine that there would be some low end performance loss.
@@InitechAuto Yes. Same here. I popped my car for service B and report came back that intake manifold rod thumble rod is broken but I noticed nothing. There was still even difference between SPORT and COMFORT drives. But retrospectively I do remember commenting to my son few times that the car was much more powerful first few minutes of driving from cold. I thought this was simply because of choke of some kind. Will see once new one is IN. I declined this repair at first because I had no idea what intake manifold is. I grew up with chokes:) But I think it is worth doing. And rather all not just repair kit. If anyone wondering how much Mercedes quoted for replacement of whole manifold it is $5480 AUD - May 2024. There is one silver lining in this. I asked them to thoroughly detail engine surface when manifold is out (and photo of it). That way entire engine bay will look like new!
What’s the size of the vacuum hose for the manifold I know you said 3.5 to 4 inch but what’s the diameter of the hose?
I don’t remember the actual inner diameter of the hose. But I would imagine around 3/16 of an inch. A very popular size
Why did u opt to change the whole intake instead of using the rebuild kit
Because the problem could be internal as well. Did not want to take the chance considering the labor involved.
question, why you rather put a new manifold instead of using the repair kit which has the update plastics to aluminiun ? i just got the code p2006 and my manifold was replaced by previous owner 50k miles ago and now i am thinking just to replace the plastic piece to aluminium. please advise
The reason being is this vehicle had over 100k miles on it. The flapper valves fail internally as well and can cause the linkage to break. I did not want to take the chance on just repairing the manifold. The manifold replacement is the recommended repair by Mercedes Benz.
@@InitechAuto I just inspected mine and nothing is broken in front , just makes a squeaking noise when I move it with hand . It’s a little rough when it bounces back once I push it
@@InitechAuto do you have a email address that I can send you a video of my intake manifold ? The plastic piece that comes from valve seems very loose from inside .
@@klajdistari827 Nicoya_@cox.net
@@InitechAuto thanks . Just emailed you
The vacuum line from the map sensor that connects on the manifold side. Does that just pull off? There is a plastic housing
Yes, it pulls off.
DO you have to remove the fuel rail? can you remove the intake manifold with the rail still attached?
Yes, you can leave the fuel rail on the vehicle.
Why not disconnect the battery? Also I think a good idea to take pics each step of the way to know what goes where. Excellent video BTW
There is no need to disconnect the battery. There’s no threat of any problems. It’s more of a personal preference.
Thanks@@InitechAuto
You think this could cause overheating? Have a glk350 that has burned up 3 radiator fans.
No
@@InitechAuto even if one side got stuck in a closed position? That would mean three entire side would be lean and no air. Also they use it at a mail truck in rural areas.
@@joeysanchez5926 Are you getting lean fuel mixture codes? Check your fuel trims and see.
Ok thanks.
I lost my vacuum line configuration I have one for the egr and from the right port on intake goes to map sensor, where does the 3rd line go ???from the small check valve, any help thank u
You mean the one at 16:00 of the video? That plugs into the front of the intake manifold.
Are you guys using oem intake manifold? Has anyone put in the aftermarket one?
I used a Pierburg Intake Manifold which is considered a OEM manifold.
@@InitechAuto thanks thats what I’m going to do, do you know the size of the vacuum hose In the front? Are the hoses different sizes or can i get a roll and cut as i needed?. Thanks
@@marcoselgaucho1106 I used a 5/32 piece of vacuum hose. All you need is a little bit.
Excellent video.thankyou
They did this job to me but now I get combustion problems on cylinder 3 and 6 and also ignition problems on 3 and 6, what can it be?
Lo que estás describiendo es una falla de encendido en esos cilindros. Deberías llevarlo al taller que hizo la reparación y ver si ellos fueron los causantes. Haz que revisen los inyectores y los conectores.
What's the total parts list? Intake manifold, set of gaskets, what else?
All parts were purchased at www.autohausaz.com Intake manifold with gaskets and fuel injector "O" rings. I don't remember where I purchased the upgrade kit.
@@InitechAuto I think the throttle body gasket is also needed.
6x Fuel Injector Seal, Lower
Throttle body housing gasket
Left intake manifold gasket
Right intake manifold gasket
The intake manifold itself
Maybe a few hoses that will split when removed for this service.
Most excellent, thanks.
Great job
I get a price for intake manifold (911$)+ gasket set replacement (17.79) parts + labor 494. Mercedes c300 2011 . Is this normal price ? I live in Florida
Sounds about right to me.
Why do you need to replace whole manifold if you just are replacing the actuator arm?
The manifold could fail internally causing the actuator arm to break. You have to take the manifold off to do the repair. Why take the chance.
Hello!
After the install, the engine runs in a rough low idle. It almost stalls, then goes up to a high idle and falls to idle again, rinse and repeat. Any Idea what might be the cause for this? Untight gasket? Broken wire?
Check for vacuum leaks. Check your work. Plug in a scanner and see what the fuel trims are saying.
@@InitechAuto Thanks! We uninstalled the throttle body again an noticed that it wasn't bolted on properly, so it definatly drew air past the mass air flow sensor. Your video was a great help.
@@GermanTopGameTV Glad, you figured it out.
Can i use super glue to hold the gasket in place ?
I don’t see why not.
I need this IM replaced on my 2011 ML350. Do you know of any top MB mechanics in the NY/NJ area?
No, I'm out in the southwest.
@@InitechAuto Thank you anyway.
FWIW- What should I pay to have this done, parts & labor? Rough idea?
@@michaelbisk9311 I would imagine some where around 1K to 1.5k.
@@InitechAuto thank you
Thank you,👌
the hose on the front of the manifold. i think i may have broken the plastic housing. is there a way to replace that?
There is an outer housing on it. I would not be concerned about it. But if you broke off the vacuum line nipple, you must figure out a repair.
what would the repair be? How can I fix that?@@InitechAuto
@@stickmouth I would drill out the broken piece and press in a small tube. Like a piece of brake line or anything like that. Use your imagination.
one last question. I'm going to order a new intake and i am trying to make sure i get the correct tap for the screws. Is M6×1.0 what im looking for. Thank you for your speedy response. This is my first time trying this and since i already have it out i may as well try to finish. ,@@InitechAuto
@@stickmouth Good luck, hope all go well.
What do yu think is a far price to do this? I got one right now...
I have no idea. It all depends on what region of the country you live in. And what the labor rates are. For the particular shop that gave you the quote
@@InitechAuto I gave him a good price. He brought me that damn Dorman part to fix it.. Problem is. then other two round things the control arm connects to are broke as well. You can see up in the intake though them...Then he didn't want to replace the intake gasket. Said use the old ones. Now they leak like hell..
I'm done with it...told him go buy a whole new intake. Gasket set and some vacuum line. As they are brittle to the touch..
@@WizzRacing Yea, trying to repair it the cheap way can lead to problems. I would have charged him 300 to 400 dollars plus parts. A new manifold and gaskets and any misc parts. Whenever I get customers that don't want to spend the money and do right. I just send them down the road. Not worth my time.