How to Replace the Intake Manifold on a 2008 Mercedes E350
Вставка
- Опубліковано 10 вер 2024
- Brian Eslick from How to Automotive www.howtoautomo... takes you step-by-step through the process of replacing the intake manifold on a 2008 Mercedes E350.
Affiliate link mentioned in the video for Intake Manifold amzn.to/2g7XwPF
Website
For more videos, tips, and to purchase recommended tools and products visit my website at: www.howtoautomo...
Stay connected at:
Email: howtoautomotive@gmail.com
Facebook: www.facebook.c...
Google+: plus.google.co...
LinkedIn: / brian-eslick-819839118
Disclaimer
Owing to factors beyond the control of How to Automotive/Brian Eslick, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modification of this information, or improper use of this information. How to Automotive/Brian Eslick assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any information contained in this video. How to Automotive/Brian Eslick recommends safe practice when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jacks and jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemical lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Because of factors beyond the control of How to Automotive/Brian Eslick, no information contained in this video shall express or imply warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not How to Automotive/Brain Eslick. #howtoautomotive #AutoRepair
I just replaced the Intake Manifold (IM) on my wife's 2008 E350 (165K) and this excellent video was the key to my success. I watched the video several times before, during and even after I completed the work. The difference in low end torque and idle smoothness was very noticeable.
Here are a couple of comments / observations:
1) After removing the engine cover and Powertrain Control Module (PCM), I found it easier to begin removing the wiring harness at the front and working towards the back because it allowed me to spread the wiring loom to open in a natural manner as I went along, analogous to a bird spreading its wings (I cut all the zip ties and replaced them during reassembly). By doing this I had plenty of room to work without the need to suspend or hold the loom back with bungee cords in order to pull out the IM. Be aware of the connector for the coolant temp sensor, which is located behind the serpentine belt, close to the idler pulley. It's a bit tricky to find and disconnect/reconnect (extra long needle pliers are very helpful here), but doing so will allow you to pull the left (driver) side of the loom farther away from the IM. I would strongly recommend taking a number of pictures of the loom before disassembly as it can be very beneficial when trying to put everything back together.
2) Be careful with the long vacuum hose/tube that runs from the valve that sits low in the front left and runs all the way back to the top of the throttle body. In addition to both the tube and hoses being hard and brittle from heat and age, the rubber hoses are likely seized to the plastic tubing, making them very hard to remove yet easy to break. I made the mistake of pivoting the whole vacuum line to the front of the engine after pulling the hose off from the Throttle Body (TB) and consequently tore the rubber elbow that connects the other end of the tube to the actuator valve that allows gas fumes from the evap canister to be drawn into the TB. The same caution applies to the two small vacuum hoses that plug into the front of the IM. Both of these hoses tore when I tried to pull them off and I ended up replacing them with silicone hoses, which are more flexible and heat resistant than rubber. It also allowed me to cut them a little longer than OEM, which made reattachment to the new IM much easier. You can easily detach the MAP sensor from it's holder on the loom, making it unnecessary to pull the hose off the sensor (assuming it did not tear it and you plan to reuse it).
3) After removing the MAF sensor and air intake elbow, I opted to not remove the TB from the IM until after I had pulled it out completely. This made removing and replacing the TB a snap. I also concur that removing the two fittings for lifting the engine made it much easier to pull out the loom out from underneath the fuel rail and thereby access the two furthest back IM bolts.
4) To answer a question other several commenters asked, it's not absolutely necessary to remove the fuel rail if the left side lifting hook is removed (in order to allow the wiring harness to slide out from underneath it), but I decided to do it anyway because I wanted to clean the injectors in addition to replacing both the upper and lower o-rings, seeing as it had never been done before. If you decide to pull the injectors out then I suggest making note of how they and the retaining clips are oriented. To be specific, the injector sockets need to face inwardly and the back of the retaining clip rests against the flat side of the flange. Also be aware that you may have difficulty engaging the clip with the groove in the injector if they are inserted too far into their tubes.
5) I decided to tap out the stanchions in the new IM (M6 X 1.0) before reinstalling the IM, which made reinstalling the Torx and eTorx bolts much easier. As mentioned in the video, I did have trouble getting the two gaskets to stay attached to the IM after flipping it over, but if at least one of the retainers holds fast then you should be able to hold the gaskets in place with your fingers while lowering the IM into position. If you reattached the TB to the IM when it was off the block then be sure to reattach the connector to the TB before setting it into place.
6) Reinstalling the wiring harness can be a bit perplexing if you did not take pictures or pay close attention how the loom weaves in and out between the fuel rail and the vacuum hose. Also be sure to push the locking tabs on the connectors back in fully, which serves to confirm the connector is fully seated and latched. The video points out that the harness runs underneath the fuel rail at the back left corner, but also be sure to reconnect the tumble flap position sensors before sliding the wiring harness underneath the fuel rail. I recommend waiting til the harness is fully back in place before bolting it down and reinstalling the lifting hooks, just in case you forget to do this (like I did). I took the time to clean all the connectors with contact cleaner and apply dielectric grease to the outside of sockets in order to make the connectors slide on more easily, in addition to creating a seal against moisture. I also put silicone grease on rubber component such as the MAF seal in the engine cover.
Between breaks, trips to the store, extra steps not shown in the video and google searches, I can't say for sure how much actual work time it would have taken me to do the job, but suffice it to say that I took my time and have no regrets because I had no codes nor lost any bolts. Most of all, my car idles and accelerates much more smoothly and with much greater low end torque. My parting comment is regarding what IM you choose to buy. I got mine from ebay for $200 and was pleased with the quality plus the fact it included both the IM and TB gaskets, which not all sellers do so keep this in mind when shopping. Also, no IMs that I saw came with the fuel injector o-rings and I had trouble finding them in any auto parts store. If your car is a daily driver and you don't have a back-up vehicle then suggest paying extra attention to having everything you need before starting this job.
Hello, just curious how the ebay IM is doing so far? I'm about to change mine and im wondering about getting one off ebay. I found one for 156$
From one tech to another, thank you, great instructional with no fluff, straight to the point!
Thank you!
Thank you Brian and HTA for this great video series. My car, 2007 CLK350 (175k miles) began idling rough and burning some oil. I was overdue for a service after the pandemic so I brought it into an indie shop. New to me, but they are very well known. They found faults for tumble flap stuck, etc.. and cam adjuster issues. Their quote to do the intake manifold was $1.550 and the cam adjuster magnets and sensors was $1,824. I figured if I was doing the intake manifold, i might as well do the cam adjusters. And a bonus, I also did the spark plugs as well. The quote to do all 3 of these was over $3,500, but I did it all myself for less than $800, all OEM parts. On the cam adjusters, I didn't have to remove the oil cooler or power steering reservoir. One issue I found on my car were brittle electrical connections from the wiring harness. I took as much care as I could, but about 3 of the locking tabs broke on me. If they come loose, I guess I will have to glue? Or maybe some kind of heat shrink jacket.
Anyway, thanks again. I'm glad I did this myself and saved the money. One question, does the computer clear all the fault codes itself, or does this have to be done with a code reader?
Mercedes sells replacement connections, in expensive. Recommend if replacing sensors, heave the securing connectors on hand, as the old ones will brake.
Good video! The job can be done without removing the fuel rail!. Remove the engine hoist eye on the drivers side and the wiring loom can be pushed back on that side to access the last manifold torx bolt.
Heebee Jeebeez nice tip. Thank you 🙏
You still have to take the fuel rail and injectors out anyway to put them on the new intake manifold.
I watched this video to replace my intake manifold, and everything went smoothly!! I suggest you watching this video a few times before doing it yourself. Then you’ll remember to do things better!
Glad the video was helpful and it went smoothly. Thank you for watching!
Just replaced the intake on a 2006 Mercedes E350. Although this video is for a 2008 model year, it was my particular vehicle exactly step by step. Like the gentleman in comments below me, I watched this video several times before doing the work. The original intake on my vehicle had the typical break on the plastic parts that continually fail these models. The car performs really well at this point and I'm super happy. Thank you very much for this video.
Great video, thanks so much for posting. I just did this job slowly and carefully following your instructions over a weekend on my R350 and it worked out perfectly. Fitted an aluminum lever to my old intake rather than fit a new one. Did this job for the cost of the gaskets and the new lever - about $50 all in :)
im going to day this to my R350 what aluminum lever did you use
Where did you get the metal fix part?
@@rtgug3084 uro makes that part.
how long it took you to do it slowly? i plan to clean the carbon built up as well
I have 2007 e350 and need to do the exact same job, the guy one $2,100 for this. thank you very much!!! I'm going to attempt to do it myself with the help of your video Thank you again. New Subscriber👍
Great video. I’m doing the exact same job tomorrow so this video definitely gets me ready for the job. It will be my first time replacing an intake manifold on a Mercedes.
It looks harder than it is. Good luck and thank you for watching!
Got the job done! Your right it wasn’t really that hard to do. Thanks again your video was a big help.
How did it turn out?
Amazing guide. Thanks for posting!
Mine needs replacement too but I'll see your video a several time to see if I convince myself to do the job soon
I done mine before I saw this video and it really is that simple. This video is the best video I've seen and this is coming a after I've refurbished my air intake module. I wish I would've seen this video and it would saved me a stumbling points on the removal, this is a great video for DIY'ers.
@@demetricefaulkner9869 I want to try this myself but I’m terrified and tbh I don’t have the tools and that thing looks super heavy.
Great easy to understand video. No faffing around with unnecessary narrative. Straight to the point. My clk 350 appears to be having a P2118 code and investigation shows that the manifold gasket is leaking from the right hand bank and taking in air. Do Mercedes just sell the manifold gaskets??
Thanks man this helped a ton. Banged this out today using this video as my guide. Excellent.
thank you for your quick answer i will check all connections that I have unplugged and I'll keep you informed of the evolution of the troubleshooting in any case thank you for your help. good day.
Thanx for the educational video.
the best explain explain ever . thanks for hard work :}
Art Semens glad to help. Thank you for watching and writing!
Art Semens If I remember right it was around 110 Thousand.
This is a nicely done video! Extremely helpful! Thank you for taking the time to make the video.
Nicoya Glad you like the video. Thank you for watching!
Great video and great job. Thanks alot
I have to agree waste no time you get an a+ thank you
perfect video. thank you
John Lefebvre thank you!
Excellently presented video!
You really made this look simple. How do you not forget where each screw goes?
Great video........I have this occur on my 08 e350 & this video is by far the best I have seen. U make it seem very simple. Them only complexity is recalling all that is 2 b unplugged which is nothing. Please inform me how I can see all your videos.
Clarence Thompson you can subscribe and click the bell 🛎 to be notified as soon as a new video comes out. Or you can visit my website www.howtoautomotive.com . Thank you for watching!
The question I have is why does a 2008 vehicle need it's intake manifold replaced? Great videos by the way. thank you.
Hello. Great question. On the front of the manifold it has vacuum pods that control the intake runners and they beak. Mercedes does not sale the parts separately and make you replace the whole thing. The bad part is they don't update the part and sale you same cheap one. Thank you for watching and writing to me!
Every mercedes that has this air intake manifold will have the same problem. There are lots of models that uses this same air intake system. The problem, source of it, is from the pvc breather at the cam. You can find this by tracing from the down elbow below the maf. Black rubber hose to the corner of the engine in the back. See 16:00 (he called it pvc hose) This is where all the oil fumes gets sucked into the down elbow and through the throttle and into the air intake manifold gumming everything. What you see here is the resulted from that. No fix, as this is the mercedes design.
I know question is vague, but my 2008 e350 has p2015 code, I have fell into the loophole of reading a bunch of forums. Should I replace the whole intake manifold or does p2015 have a specific part ?
Also do you know by any chance If p2015 causes engine misfires because I also have misfire codes and replaced all my coils and plugs already
Thank you
Thanks for posting! How long would you say someone doing this job for the first time and moderate mechanical ability would take?
It took me a good 6 hours
@@dannykellner4611 6 hours of working the whole time? Or did you take break inbetween?
how much book time does Mercedes recommend, I have to do this on a W204 with M272 motor.
Is this OEM part? If not any problem so far?
Excellent video
gurjot anand thank you!!
Awesome job perfect fast and well done . you good
alfredo sanchez thank you!
I own a Benz E 350, 2007 low miles (45000) and you mechanical expertly video opened a window in to my future car repair, in spite of you did not mentioned the miles at the time the manifold replacement in the video . Nevertheless this video was one of the best I saw . keep the good work
You are the best
Great Video. What is the signs of bad air intake manifold??
Thank you
Great video. Where are you located?
Hey I fixed p2006 which was the bank 1 runner stuck closed and now Im getting p2015 which is intake runner bank 1 sensor/switch circuit/range performance. Never had this code till I replaced the triangle swivel with a metal one. Any ideas?
Hi Brian, first of all thank you for your great video, it helped a lot. I noticed a P2006 (stuck in in-active position) which is there for almost ever, but never had any side effects. Now two years ago I had the problem, that my car did not pass emission testing (due to micro rev variation within the electronic testing cycle) which is mandatory here. So I decided to follow your video and get a closer look at this manifold. After checking the triangle and all the flaps I found out all of them are ok and they are still working. So would you a) still exchange the manifold, b) upgrade the manifold with the metal triangle or c) just built it back in? Maybe there is also anything else to check on it, while it’s not installed? Thank you very much.
How Much did you charge for that? I need the exact same thing done on my 2008 e350, I would like to know if there trying to rip me off
I have a P2004 error on my Mercedes E350 2007 and some sources say in this case i have to replace the throttle lever, do i have to change the entire intake manifold, or replacing the lever only will do the thing ?
Thanks and by the way your videos are great !
Oleg Munteanu i'm glad you like the videos. As far as the lever goes i've always replace the entire manifold. But now they have aftermarket kits were you can repair it so it's something you may want to look into. Either way you will have to remove the intake manifold to repair it.
Is the process of taking out the manifold on my 2007 E350 the same as shown in the video?
Thanks
Oleg Munteanu yes it the same.
I did this to my 07 E350 carefully step by step after I did my check engine came on in it came out to be the airmass flow sensor so I changed it after few day it came back on stating the same n it causing other issue..its a head ache I change the m.a.f 3 times..
Look for a broken or pinched wire to it
Hi I replaced the whole manifold with new and got a p2015 code afterwards any idea?
What was the mileage when this part failed ? Thanks.
So I just did this job on a 06 Mercedes E500...realized I plugged everything back in except for one random hose that looks like it’s running from the bottom of the manifold running towards the front of the engine. I have no idea where it goes. HELPP
Do you have any video on how to replace the valve cove gasket on l350
ian young I don't think I have one on the 350. But I do have videos on Lexus Val covers it may have the same engine. At my website www.howtoautomotive.com just click on the video Page search bar and type in Val covers and all my deals will pop up.
How can I get the intake new one 350 2008
Great Job and very helpful. Would it help if you used SeaFoam regularly to help clean the intake / injectors to prevent premature failure of the intake gates inside the manifold? Also, how long did it take you to perform this change?
Robert Butka glad the the video was helpful. Thank you for watching and the tips!
Thanks for the video. I did a complete disassembly of the fuel rail and when I put it back on, I accidentally used the longer bolts meant for the throttle body and since they’re self tapping, they went clear through into the intake manifold. I could not stomach purchasing another one and still installed it Swapping out the bolts and cleaning out the metal dust of course. What problems do you foresee down the road?
billyelliot78 Most likely you’re going to be OK. The only other common thing with this vehicle is cam and plugs and PCV valve leaking oil on the back of the cylinder heads. But they’re super easy to swap out.
How to Automotive man that’s a huge relief. I do feel like The engine got louder than before and I hear some other small noises coming from the throttle side but all in all it was a great experience. I’m a beginner DIYer so the video was super helpful and I know I couldn’t have done it without your help. Thanks a lot for the reply back as well. Subscribed.
How to symbol the hoses to connect everything together again
Great vid...is this a common failure?
I have an 07 E350 , I pretty much refurbished mine and when I went in I saw that this wasn't the first time this was done on my car. I bought my 2 yrs ago right at 100k mileage.
What went bad on this part for to replace it
Awesome video, any way to replace the control flap on the front of the manifold without taking it off?
looks like you may be able to remove the waterpump.
Anthony Mitchell you probably could remove the air injection pump and get to it but I still think it would be really tough. It's really not that difficult to pull the intake manifold off this car.
Is this the same process for a E550?
thanks for this. do you happen to know the size of the vacuum hoses at the front of the intake that connect to the clear lines
I believe it was 6mm
@@HowtoAutomotive 3.5mm inside x 7.5mm outside. thank you though, great video
Chris B good to know. Thank you.
Looks very similar to my 07 C230 2.5 V6. Should I do anything differently for that?
Sandeep Veeramani I’m pretty sure it’s exactly the same on your car. This video should work.
@@HowtoAutomotive Great. Thanks for confirming.. I have a P2006 code on my car along with a P0455 (evap leak). I have no issues with the way the car runs. its smooth, great gas mileage, no loss of power no hesitation on start up.. I noticed you showed a few vacuum lines going from the vacuum switch to the intake manifold. Do you think a leak there could have fired these two codes?
Sandeep Veeramani You would more likely have Lean codes such as P0171 P0174 if the vacuum lines are broken. If you look just behind the air pump on the front of the motor you’ll see the plastic arms most likely one of those are broken. The EvapCode is most likely a separate problem. It could be anything from a loose gas cap To a broken vent line or valve somewhere. I would start with the intake repair double check the Clear all codes and go from there.
Part number for the injector o-rings?
how much do you charge to do this? can I drive down and back up the same day from LA?
jkk8244 A rough estimate would be just under 1000 bucks 500 for parts in roughly 4 To 500 in labor. This job definitely could be done in one day. You would have to schedule it with the shop but it does not give me Watch Leeway if anything goes wrong. Shop number is 1(760)942-4858 we are open Monday through Friday
Would it affect acceleration if one was broke?
Yes It can affect it depends on how the tumblers insider stuck
Hello
I am French and sorry for my bad English it is from the translator. I would like to thank you first for your very accurate video I was able to you by dismounting and reassembling the intake manifold and replace the biellete which was broken. but after having everything back I misfire cylinder 1 and 5 and a fault of the random cylinder and to finish a problem with the brakes. Then I change my candles I change the air flow and inverted the ignition coils nothing does it please you could help me out. thank you in advance
bonjour
je suis français et désolé pour mon mauvais anglais il est issue du traducteur .je voudrais tout d abord vous remercier pour votre vidéo très précise j' ai pu grâce a vous démonter et remonter le collecteur d'admission et remplacer la biellette qui était cassé. Mais après avoir tout remonter j'ai des ratés d'allumage cylindre 1 et 5 et un défaut du cylindre aléatoire et pour finir un problème avec les freins .alors j'ai changer mes bougies j'ai changer le débitmètre d'air et inversé les bobines d'allumage rien y fait s'il vous plais pourriez vous me dépanner .merci par avance .
JEAN YVES sounds like you have a vacuum leak. Also double check your connections at all the coils and injectors.
You do realize looking at the down elbow below the maf it's soaked with oil and to the throttle body. Trace where that oil comes from? Tip.. follow the black rubber hose at the elbow and your source of this air take issue is at that spot. No resolution as this is how it's designed.
This same problem will happen again even if you put a new air intake manifold with oil fumes coming in from that black rubber tube .
thanks for the video Brian. I gonna do the job myself. My question is, Does the new peirburg intake come with an updated tumble flap bracket? or do I need to buy an aluminum one and install it before I put the new intake on the engine? Thank you!
J Shadler the Peirburg is a factory replacement comes with the plastic ones. I believe the aluminum ones are aftermarket and it would be a good upgrade.
why didn't you leave the fuel rail on the intake?
Don't understand why some people have given a thumbs down.
Thank you. It’s hard to say why people don’t like certain content some expect Hollywood style production some just take a personal dislike of the people behind the camera. The best of the best of people making Condit have their fair share of thumbs down. Thank you for watching!
how much does it cost a intake monifold for ml 350 2008
raymond mendez where I get back to the shop tomorrow I'll look it up and get back to you.
Thanks just wanna make I am not. Getting over charge
raymond mendez the intake go's for about 500 to 600 online. Deal list is 1200. Labor is 3 hours. Most shops charge 85 to 125 a hour. Hope this helps.
question those this part only be sold by the dealer
raymond mendez no you can get them from local parts supplier.
Contact me if you live in Atlanta area and you need replacement of Mercedes intake manifold. I do also have one extra on shelves that fit C, E and S class.
$200 for new intake and total labor cost $250.
How May I contact you?
How can you be reached
Looks easy. Not. Good video though.
One of those jobs that looks harder than it is.
@@HowtoAutomotive That's called experience. I can tell this wasn't your first time. Definitely not a shade tree job. I'm an ASE certified mechanic (1980's) and my 2006 E350 is now in the shop for this procedure after watching this video. LOL. I want to thank you for answering my question in the first minute of the video.(I did watch the whole thing BTW.) In my day you didn't replace an intake manifold. It was just a piece of metal, but now I know why.
@@juanoquendo well I’m glad the video helped you make the right decision for the repair.