Glamps / hammers go onto the STEM / BAR, with two big bolts.. Grease the face of the glamps before fitting , stops the metal picking up.. Over time the metal will impact on the face of glamps, grind it flush, otherwise it will come loose and slop up and down.. Tool for cleaning out the cSeing is a Sandpump, some different styles.. Bailer is to test water yield as you go, When in water bearing gravel.. 27 years of Drilling here, Loved cable tool Test Drilling- building sites and for bridges.. Water wells down to 150mtrs. 150mm caseing , welded every joint 3 runs.. Pulled back with 2 jacks and a bull ring with wedges/ slips.. Yes I have used different terms because different companies use different sayings.. Cheers from CHCH, NEW ZEALAND..
If you don't have Jack's, you can screen by two methods. #1 when you start into water bearing gravel, drop in screen, TAP it in a bit, sandpump at bottom ( inside screen), Cont as you go..Not easy on small dia casing. Can fold the screen, & you don't know a yield of flow beforehand.. 2nd method, you may be able to Jar back the casing. Heavy bar thru the casing, sliding hammer to bounce it back.. Big KNOCKERS needed.. Jacks [ bullring ] wedges are best.. clean and GREASE those wedges on the backs, will help releasing them..
I have a 4 foot diameter by 22 feet deep , I tried to drain it but it fills up by the next day , I was watching this well drilling a few months ago and welding the pipe together
Center your bar over steel pipe, check every run or you will be sorry. That is right lay drill cable. You want left lay so that your drill bar spins clockwise keeping threaded joints tight. Get that off your rig or stuff,drill bar rope socket, not will come loose and you will be fishing for tools not making hole losing money
Glamps / hammers go onto the STEM / BAR, with two big bolts..
Grease the face of the glamps before fitting , stops the metal picking up..
Over time the metal will impact on the face of glamps, grind it flush, otherwise it will come loose and slop up and down..
Tool for cleaning out the cSeing is a Sandpump, some different styles..
Bailer is to test water yield as you go, When in water bearing gravel..
27 years of Drilling here, Loved cable tool Test Drilling- building sites and for bridges..
Water wells down to 150mtrs.
150mm caseing , welded every joint 3 runs.. Pulled back with 2 jacks and a bull ring with wedges/ slips..
Yes I have used different terms because different companies use different sayings..
Cheers from CHCH, NEW ZEALAND..
Well be drilling again this year, this info helps
If you don't have Jack's, you can screen by two methods.
#1 when you start into water bearing gravel, drop in screen, TAP it in a bit, sandpump at bottom ( inside screen), Cont as you go..Not easy on small dia casing. Can fold the screen, & you don't know a yield of flow beforehand..
2nd method, you may be able to Jar back the casing.
Heavy bar thru the casing, sliding hammer to bounce it back..
Big KNOCKERS needed..
Jacks [ bullring ] wedges are best.. clean and GREASE those wedges on the backs, will help releasing them..
Put your drive blocks on the drill bar first and slide the casing up inside and use the bit for the joint to weld.
Good work !!
I have a 4 foot diameter by 22 feet deep , I tried to drain it but it fills up by the next day ,
I was watching this well drilling a few months ago and welding the pipe together
Sounds like you have a nice well
Have bar over pipe when centering
Had 6. Different makes. Best, 22w 2 line. Had 3 line controls.
Center your bar over steel pipe, check every run or you will be sorry. That is right lay drill cable. You want left lay so that your drill bar spins clockwise keeping threaded joints tight. Get that off your rig or stuff,drill bar rope socket, not will come loose and you will be fishing for tools not making hole losing money
If you still have one, I'd like to buy it.