a little tip when loading 120 films, keep the tape and fold it back on the film and load that onto the real first! it helps with loading as it makes the film firmer and easier to put on the Paterson reals. you won't have to fiddle with getting it on as much! it's especially helpful with thinner films like Fomapan!
Thanks for the video! I thought slide film would be more complicated to develop but being familiar with C-41, this doesn't sound as daunting anymore. Also love the Titanfall 2 poster
Perfect video! I’ve been looking into Tetenal E6 developing for a little while, and was wondering about the wash. The instructions say one thing, other UA-camrs say another thing but you said what I wanted to hear, the Ilford wash (modified) would be fine! Great stuff. Looks like I’ll need more wash water than for my C41 and B&Ws so a new tub is in order, but that’s easy enough to sort. Brill! Thanks the the great vid, I really appreciate it! 🙂
Great video. Do you heat up chemicals and water at a slightly higher temperature to compensate to heat loss?. I have found by reaising temp 1 degree helps with C41 but thats only 3.30 this has a longer first developer.
You are doing well, I also use a water bath at the correct temperature but still seem to lose temperature maybe something to do with how much agitation I am doing. Have a great New Year and keep up with the videos, they are great @@SprocketHoles
Very informative, thanks for sharing! Quick question, if I wait and shoot around 30 rolls of slide film, could I then just mix the entire chemistry into 2.5l of working solution? This would mean I wouldn't have to bother mixing into smaller, 500ml batches. I'm just unsure about how to adjust for chemical exhaustion using this method though. Regards, Dan
@@SprocketHoles I have only shot 2 rolls of slide film due to cost, and i find that E-6 is easier than C-41 i fucked up a lot of c-41 never had any issues with E-6 or Black and White. Idk what it is but I just have bad luck with c-41 so my local photolab does that on a noritsu film processor. I am blown away with slide film it just looks so much better even than what ive gotten with color negative or heck even the few digital images ive shot in my life which is like 10! I just love analog photography.
As a general rule, the stock solutions in these E-6 kits must be fully mixed at one time, not mixed piecemeal. So, if you have a 2.5 L kit, you should mix it completely at one time. Suggest you then break down the 2.5L working solutions into 5 - 500ml; bottles, preferably dark amber glass bottles. Then use one 500ml batch, and reuse it to the extent you can tolerate the resulting color shifts, then toss it and start into the next batch. If you reuse chemistry, the instruction in the kit should have directions on how to compute the required extension of 1st developer process time. The other chemistry parts do not normally require time extensions.
It just needs to be about 38 ish. If you use cold water it can cause the film to contract and causes spiderweb looking marks . It's called Reticulation.
It's the same film. Just a different size. Technically it's called color reversal film. When it's mounted it's called a slide so people call it slide film. You can get medium format slides in 6x6
a little tip when loading 120 films, keep the tape and fold it back on the film and load that onto the real first! it helps with loading as it makes the film firmer and easier to put on the Paterson reals. you won't have to fiddle with getting it on as much! it's especially helpful with thinner films like Fomapan!
AP reels have a bigger lip making it much easy to load the film
Great video thanks. I used to work all the time with slide film but have forgotten how good it is. Need to give this a shot.
Thanks for the video! I thought slide film would be more complicated to develop but being familiar with C-41, this doesn't sound as daunting anymore. Also love the Titanfall 2 poster
Perfect video! I’ve been looking into Tetenal E6 developing for a little while, and was wondering about the wash. The instructions say one thing, other UA-camrs say another thing but you said what I wanted to hear, the Ilford wash (modified) would be fine! Great stuff. Looks like I’ll need more wash water than for my C41 and B&Ws so a new tub is in order, but that’s easy enough to sort. Brill! Thanks the the great vid, I really appreciate it! 🙂
Fantastic video mate! Really helpful. I am trying to develop some slides through x-processing.
That was awesome Dude!
Great video. Do you heat up chemicals and water at a slightly higher temperature to compensate to heat loss?. I have found by reaising temp 1 degree helps with C41 but thats only 3.30 this has a longer first developer.
No, I put the developing tank and chems in a water bath so its maintained at 38c the whole time.
You are doing well, I also use a water bath at the correct temperature but still seem to lose temperature maybe something to do with how much agitation I am doing. Have a great New Year and keep up with the videos, they are great @@SprocketHoles
@@GAROBERBERIAN I preheat the tank with wash water at the start to bring the film and reels up to temp before I start developing
Ok cool thanks will try the same @@SprocketHoles
This kit should work to develop 100 feet of 16mm movie film Ektachrome or smaller S8 or R8 films, I have a roll of R8 Ektachrome to do
Very informative, thanks for sharing! Quick question, if I wait and shoot around 30 rolls of slide film, could I then just mix the entire chemistry into 2.5l of working solution? This would mean I wouldn't have to bother mixing into smaller, 500ml batches. I'm just unsure about how to adjust for chemical exhaustion using this method though. Regards, Dan
@@SprocketHoles I have only shot 2 rolls of slide film due to cost, and i find that E-6 is easier than C-41 i fucked up a lot of c-41 never had any issues with E-6 or Black and White. Idk what it is but I just have bad luck with c-41 so my local photolab does that on a noritsu film processor.
I am blown away with slide film it just looks so much better even than what ive gotten with color negative or heck even the few digital images ive shot in my life which is like 10! I just love analog photography.
As a general rule, the stock solutions in these E-6 kits must be fully mixed at one time, not mixed piecemeal. So, if you have a 2.5 L kit, you should mix it completely at one time. Suggest you then break down the 2.5L working solutions into 5 - 500ml; bottles, preferably dark amber glass bottles. Then use one 500ml batch, and reuse it to the extent you can tolerate the resulting color shifts, then toss it and start into the next batch. If you reuse chemistry, the instruction in the kit should have directions on how to compute the required extension of 1st developer process time. The other chemistry parts do not normally require time extensions.
Where do I buy the filim part?
What E6 kit do you use now that the Tetenal kit is unavailable? (I'm using the 6/7-bath Bellini kit.)
The Bellini 6 bath kit, its really nice. I wile the fuji kits were still here
Hi, what about rins temperature?
It just needs to be about 38 ish. If you use cold water it can cause the film to contract and causes spiderweb looking marks . It's called Reticulation.
Thank you for the answer!
I thought slide film was only 35mm film did you not develop a 120mm color film is the process the same ?.
It's the same film. Just a different size. Technically it's called color reversal film. When it's mounted it's called a slide so people call it slide film. You can get medium format slides in 6x6
Brilliant