Thank you so much for this video. There are other instructional videos out there that go into more depth, but this is the video that I watched which made me think "yes, I think I can do this!". My local film lab closed just after I'd bought a big pack of excellent quality expired E6 film. I didn't know what to do about it but I watched this video and decided to try processing it myself. It's been a success! This also got me started with processing at home in general and I've now done quite a bit of B&W processing too. So you've really inspired me!
Its been 30 years since I last developed any type of film but I'm going to to get back into film photography and home processing just for the fun of it. Love the salad spinner as a dryer.
Thanks for showing how easy e6 is to develop, I have developed 100+ rolls myself and whenever someone worries about the temperature I tell them to either get a souvide cooker or as I do where I just add warm water whenever needed in order to maintain the temperature! Also as you say, the blix is nasty as it stains everything!
I'm really happy you posted this video about developing slide film (transparencies). Others have done color negatives, but you got us covered with slide film. Many thanks!!!
Really good and clear AND FAST demonstration of how it's done! THANK YOU! Superbly done. I guess to do this with Ektachrome 100 SUPER 8 film, I would need some sort of special contraption that keeps the 50 feet of film spread out in some sort of way. How would that be called? Is Super-8 E-6 development even possible at home?
this colour after the first wash, is due to this film being a 120, LF sheet stock has this too, it is due to a 'anti-halation layer' in the backing of these stocks ( this allows light to 'strike' the films' silver side only ONCE, as some cameras' designs have metal backs, aka the film pressure plates ( or the separators in LF double dark /grafmatic holders), these can reflect the incoming focused image back onto the emulsion side, in effect acting as a stray light does from the front, not only exposing the film, but adding CA, flair, etc.).
My first home development in 30 years was a slidefilm. I also used the Tetenal E-6 kit, and the CineStill TCS-1000 heater. Pretty easy, and great result. I use demineralized water for the chemicals, as i have a lot of calsium in the tapwater. For rinse i use tapwater. I buy the demineralized water in the local grosery store in 1 litre bottels (the cheapest solution), which serves as great single-use chemical bottles too. It's in chemical bottles as other household chemicals, and it's easy to squeeze the air out of the bottle for storing the chemicals. I wonder if i could add some Kodak Photo-Flo for the last rinse before stabilizer or use Photo-Flo in the stabilizer (which is mixed with demineralized water too) to avoid calsium spots on the film. Or whether Photo-Flo will create problems in relation to the stabillizer. I guess i have to test it with a "not so important" film.
There is a wonderful excess of "the lick" in that song you picked and I'm having a really hard time drifting away from it, hahaha. Really cool step by step though. Very thorough and easy to understand and follow. Nicely done as always!
This is the first time I have seen a salad spinner in use to get the excess water off the film. I take it you don't use a squeegee on it after as it's so dry. At least that way there is no danger of scratching the film. I've done c41 bit my E6 rolls are adding up and I just got the 6 bath kit from Bellini. I have 35mm 120 and 4x5 to do over the next few months.
Hey great description. It took my fear away from developing slide film. I did, and altough images came out fine, the emulsion side is really sticky even after a few hours. Should I put it back into stabilizer ?
E-6 i have found to be easier for me to do than c-41 ive screwed up every roll of c-41 i ever developed and never had a single failed development of any black and white or E-6 film development. I dont know why but I just cant do c-41
really useful video. I have my first ever provia 100F to develop and im a week away from getting everything i need to do that. will probably be watching this a few times so i know what im doing... going to be fun... 😟
I’m pretty new to developing all film in general, but if you keep the film in those chemicals too long, can it hurt/change the colors? I don’t want to mess this up and I want to try this. Great video
Thank you! When you let the film longer in the developer it's called pushing and it will give your more contrast and also more grain. There are many videos about pushing film here on UA-cam. 👌
I used to develop my films like you using the spinner attachment but found that the negatives were developing more in one area than the other, created from the swirl of the liquid, if that makes sense. I thought at first I had a possible light leak on my camera. I then began tumble rotating the canister and get consistent results. Interested in your experience?
So slide film developing: pre bath, developer 1, developer 2, bleach, then stabilizer? Anything I’m missing? Does it still need to be agitated like C-41 or does it just remain still?
Thank you for the tutorial! One question: is it possible to do pull E-6 process? For example, develop overexposed Provia100 slide film at ISO 25 or ISO 50?
Very interesting. I always thought there was a great mystery to developing films/slides but it looks very easy. Two questions: 1. Why do you pre-wash the film? 2. If you’ve already developed a number of films, how do you know how much extra time to give the current film? Or is it all down to experience? Many thanks.
Hi, I may be answering a bit late to your question but 1) You need to pre-wash it because film is covered with layers of anti-hallo and stuff so just washing it allows you to get rid of it so you don't pollute your chemicals. 2) There is always a manual with developping kits explaining precisely which additionnal time you need to add after each 2-3 films, because the chemical reaction tend to take longer when you already used it before. Hope it helps :)
Great video I noticed you are rinsing with cold (tap) water (even colder depending on the time of year , like in wintertime ) shouldn't that be warmer to avoid cracks the film substrate ?? Greetings and thanks for sharing ;-)
He is using a water tap where you can change the temperature by setting the lever to the right or left. Obviously the temperature should be approximately the same as the chemicals (about 38 °C/100 °F).
@@buyaport Clear but in my house depending on the outside temperature the lever is on a different spot since there is no thermostat on my faucet. I would always stick a thermometer in the water jet.
@@therealsirrobin In many homes, including mine, the shower has a built-in thermostat with a safety-stop at 38 C. For film processing, simply unscrew the shower head from the end of the hose, or set the shower head to "jet" instead of "spray".
Hi, love your work. I have a question about how environmental friendly is it to throw the leftover chemicals in the water system that gets recycled? Those are carcinogens, if I'm not mistaken. Only curious.
Depends on the chemicals, some are worse than others. I collect my depleted chemicals and bring them to a place on my City that takes care of it for me.
@@therealsirrobin oh my god, you weren't kidding when you said you do read the comments 😍 thank you for taking the time to answer the question. Much appreciated.
@@suzyaero Pretty much 99% of modern film chemicals are non hazardous except to certain limited species of fish. The only really toxic compound even used today in developers like Kodak D-76 is Metol which is toxic and well known to be so. Phenidone based developers were created by ilford to serve as non toxic developers.
Hey. Love your videos. did you have better results developing vision3 in e6 than c-41? thanks a lot for the tipp with the salad spinner, that really helped me with the drying.
Tetenal colortec is the best after using it you won’t be able to use any other it’s so much better Then the rest!👍 I keep my tank in that 100F water all the time
Hi! How many times can you reuse the kit? Can you store it in the freezer and use it again after 3 months? I am afraid that i do the investment but i don't shoot enough. For b&w i keep the developer in the freezer for years and had no issues but here i asume there will be color changes or even worst.
There was a major lawsuit in the US regarding ECN-2 film being sold under the auspicious that it could only be developed by the company who repackaged it... en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seattle_FilmWorks
Hm. Safety notes: Latex gloves are not chemical resistant. The chem can leach through the gloves fairly easily. Nitrile gloves are a better option. It might be a good idea to talk about proper room ventilation too.
Thank you! The gloves rarely get in touch with the chemicals, I am trying to avoid that if possible. The room I develop in is fairly large and a window is opened most of the time.
Francis Bombus Silbersalz empfiehlt selber den Film 0,5 bis +1 Stop über zu belichten. Wenn das Licht die Möglichkeit gibt ergibt das auch die besten Ergebnisse.
It is chemically fogged at one of the steps in e-6, people do it by light to eliminate the need for another chemical in the recipe.It would be a pita to fog by light in a commercial lab setting.
I wanna believe you but... didn't see the film enter or exit the changing bag and the washing water at temp just felt bogus... forgive me because you are trying to teach and help but when making a peanut butter sandwich for a man from mars you can't leave out a step or not explain what the hell is a loaf of bread!
I can not approve your way to develop E-6 slides, the way you do may cause an underdevelopment and some damage to the film. You don't rince the film with water from the faucet (tap) but you have to stay at 38°C even for the washing in between and the lack of agitation isn't really counterbalanced by 30 seconds more. C41 can be processed this way but E6 needs more precision.
You can do whatever you want but it works for me without any issues. The longer developing time was to compensate for a developer that has already been used for a couple of rolls.
Images are certainly good but I will not consider your images better because you shot them with the Leica M6 camera! Why do you have to say that you shot them with Leica M6? I'm also an analog photographer but most of you UA-camrs photographers always talk about your expensive cameras primarily and then after them about the images,it should be the other way around! It is just a tool! I am sorry it is my opinion!
You certainly have never done a UA-cam video yourself. If you don't mention it, people will ask. My question is rather why you get upset by simply mentioning a camera brand?
@@therealsirrobin I don't mean to offend you, I think your pictures are pretty good! In my view of things, when you first mention the tool then you put what is more important in the background and that is the image! I don't mind you mentioning the tool in this case it's Leica but I wouldn't put the tool in the first place but the image. Psychologically, when I look at the situation, It seems that your tool is more important than the image is, I believe that in your case it is not so, but it seems like it is ,especially when it comes to Leica camera . Cheers!
What is the E6 kit name?
Tetenal.
@@therealsirrobin did it dry to normal tones or did it stay blue?
@@tnts999998 slide looks very blue when still wet and then dries to normal.
I’d like to know what the spinner dryer thing is called so I can buy one; that’s a great idea for drying film!
@@pancakelens75 look for a salad dryer. I believe this one is from IKEA
Thank you so much for this video. There are other instructional videos out there that go into more depth, but this is the video that I watched which made me think "yes, I think I can do this!". My local film lab closed just after I'd bought a big pack of excellent quality expired E6 film. I didn't know what to do about it but I watched this video and decided to try processing it myself. It's been a success! This also got me started with processing at home in general and I've now done quite a bit of B&W processing too. So you've really inspired me!
Thank you, that is lovely to hear! 😊
Its been 30 years since I last developed any type of film but I'm going to to get back into film photography and home processing just for the fun of it. Love the salad spinner as a dryer.
Thank you!
Thanks for showing how easy e6 is to develop, I have developed 100+ rolls myself and whenever someone worries about the temperature I tell them to either get a souvide cooker or as I do where I just add warm water whenever needed in order to maintain the temperature!
Also as you say, the blix is nasty as it stains everything!
Thank you!
Hi, what about rinses temperature?
I'm really happy you posted this video about developing slide film (transparencies). Others have done color negatives, but you got us covered with slide film. Many thanks!!!
Really good and clear AND FAST demonstration of how it's done! THANK YOU! Superbly done. I guess to do this with Ektachrome 100 SUPER 8 film, I would need some sort of special contraption that keeps the 50 feet of film spread out in some sort of way. How would that be called? Is Super-8 E-6 development even possible at home?
this colour after the first wash, is due to this film being a 120, LF sheet stock has this too, it is due to a 'anti-halation layer' in the backing of these stocks ( this allows light to 'strike' the films' silver side only ONCE, as some cameras' designs have metal backs, aka the film pressure plates ( or the separators in LF double dark /grafmatic holders), these can reflect the incoming focused image back onto the emulsion side, in effect acting as a stray light does from the front, not only exposing the film, but adding CA, flair, etc.).
Insightful . . . do u rinse at 38 degrees?
My first home development in 30 years was a slidefilm. I also used the Tetenal E-6 kit, and the CineStill TCS-1000 heater. Pretty easy, and great result.
I use demineralized water for the chemicals, as i have a lot of calsium in the tapwater. For rinse i use tapwater. I buy the demineralized water in the local grosery store in 1 litre bottels (the cheapest solution), which serves as great single-use chemical bottles too. It's in chemical bottles as other household chemicals, and it's easy to squeeze the air out of the bottle for storing the chemicals.
I wonder if i could add some Kodak Photo-Flo for the last rinse before stabilizer or use Photo-Flo in the stabilizer (which is mixed with demineralized water too) to avoid calsium spots on the film. Or whether Photo-Flo will create problems in relation to the stabillizer. I guess i have to test it with a "not so important" film.
You don't need to use photo flow after the stabilizer if you use distilled water to mix it.
thanks for the walk through. really appreciate it. also, good to see you have good taste in music and that you're armed with a mind 🤝.
Holy crap the transition from thumbnail to video was so seamless, I thought my video was still loading and then when he talked it startled me
There is a wonderful excess of "the lick" in that song you picked and I'm having a really hard time drifting away from it, hahaha. Really cool step by step though. Very thorough and easy to understand and follow. Nicely done as always!
Thank you Ivan! 😊👌
Is it at all possible to get away without a thermometer and just hot tap water?
This is the first time I have seen a salad spinner in use to get the excess water off the film. I take it you don't use a squeegee on it after as it's so dry. At least that way there is no danger of scratching the film. I've done c41 bit my E6 rolls are adding up and I just got the 6 bath kit from Bellini. I have 35mm 120 and 4x5 to do over the next few months.
What temperature is the water you rinse the film ?
Hey great description. It took my fear away from developing slide film.
I did, and altough images came out fine, the emulsion side is really sticky even after a few hours. Should I put it back into stabilizer ?
Thank you! Not sure about the sticky side but as you mentioned try to stabilize again. 👍
the_real_sir_robin I let it dry overnight and it stayed fine.
With the following roll of provia the drying was much quicker
What tank did you use?
The stabilizer should never go in the Paterson or Jobo tank. How did you ensure that the wash after FD was at 38 C?
Hi, how important is it to expel the air form working solution? See a lot of vids where its not mentioned
arn`t you supposed to keep the rinse water at 38 degrees to keep from reticulation
Thanks for the video! How long can you keep the working solution of the chemicals?
Armed with a mind! Your video made me wanna try c41 at home now i'm going to try developing E6 at home too!
Great, give it a shot! 🤘
E-6 i have found to be easier for me to do than c-41 ive screwed up every roll of c-41 i ever developed and never had a single failed development of any black and white or E-6 film development. I dont know why but I just cant do c-41
really useful video. I have my first ever provia 100F to develop and im a week away from getting everything i need to do that. will probably be watching this a few times so i know what im doing... going to be fun... 😟
Don't worry, it's not that hard at all! 😑
Very interesting thank you. Do you have a video for the black and white film? Thank you :)
Настоящая фотография! Не то, что какая-то там цифра! Сколько в вашей стране стоит такая фото пленка и реактивы для нее?
Nice! How you name your drying device please? :) Trying to find the same one :)
have heart!!! saw them in massachusetts and los angeles for the reunion gigs.
Nice! Went to a show in Germany. So stoked for the possibility to see them in stage. Missed a show in 2008 and then they broke up. 😭
FUCKING LUCKY!
I’m pretty new to developing all film in general, but if you keep the film in those chemicals too long, can it hurt/change the colors? I don’t want to mess this up and I want to try this. Great video
Thank you! When you let the film longer in the developer it's called pushing and it will give your more contrast and also more grain. There are many videos about pushing film here on UA-cam. 👌
I used to develop my films like you using the spinner attachment but found that the negatives were developing more in one area than the other, created from the swirl of the liquid, if that makes sense. I thought at first I had a possible light leak on my camera. I then began tumble rotating the canister and get consistent results. Interested in your experience?
I have never had any issues like that. I use the same technique for B&W, C41 and E6.
So slide film developing: pre bath, developer 1, developer 2, bleach, then stabilizer?
Anything I’m missing? Does it still need to be agitated like C-41 or does it just remain still?
that salad spinner is such a good idea
Thank you for the tutorial! One question: is it possible to do pull E-6 process? For example, develop overexposed Provia100 slide film at ISO 25 or ISO 50?
Very interesting. I always thought there was a great mystery to developing films/slides but it looks very easy.
Two questions:
1. Why do you pre-wash the film?
2. If you’ve already developed a number of films, how do you know how much extra time to give the current film? Or is it all down to experience?
Many thanks.
Hi, I may be answering a bit late to your question but
1) You need to pre-wash it because film is covered with layers of anti-hallo and stuff so just washing it allows you to get rid of it so you don't pollute your chemicals.
2) There is always a manual with developping kits explaining precisely which additionnal time you need to add after each 2-3 films, because the chemical reaction tend to take longer when you already used it before.
Hope it helps :)
@@lababine8224 That’s excellent. Thank you very much for the answers.
@@radharcanna You welcome :)
Wirklich klasse Video, das werde ich auch ausprobieren.. herzlichen Dank!
Gerne doch!
How toxic are these chemicals when inhaled? How do you discard them when they expire?
Bro did anyone realize his thumbnail transition was super clean. He made the thumbnail live
Why didn't you mention which developer kit you were using?
I would also like to know which E6 kit was used.
Tetenal. There several options out there but they are very similar to work with.
why are you so upset?
Great video
I noticed you are rinsing with cold (tap) water (even colder depending on the time of year , like in wintertime ) shouldn't that be warmer to avoid cracks the film substrate ??
Greetings and thanks for sharing ;-)
He is using a water tap where you can change the temperature by setting the lever to the right or left. Obviously the temperature should be approximately the same as the chemicals (about 38 °C/100 °F).
@@buyaport Clear but in my house depending on the outside temperature the lever is on a different spot since there is no thermostat on my faucet.
I would always stick a thermometer in the water jet.
It's not cold water!
Even a couple degrees less than 38C works just fine! 👌
@@therealsirrobin In many homes, including mine, the shower has a built-in thermostat with a safety-stop at 38 C. For film processing, simply unscrew the shower head from the end of the hose, or set the shower head to "jet" instead of "spray".
Hi, love your work. I have a question about how environmental friendly is it to throw the leftover chemicals in the water system that gets recycled? Those are carcinogens, if I'm not mistaken. Only curious.
Depends on the chemicals, some are worse than others. I collect my depleted chemicals and bring them to a place on my City that takes care of it for me.
@@therealsirrobin oh my god, you weren't kidding when you said you do read the comments 😍 thank you for taking the time to answer the question. Much appreciated.
@@suzyaero Pretty much 99% of modern film chemicals are non hazardous except to certain limited species of fish. The only really toxic compound even used today in developers like Kodak D-76 is Metol which is toxic and well known to be so.
Phenidone based developers were created by ilford to serve as non toxic developers.
Hey. Love your videos. did you have better results developing vision3 in e6 than c-41? thanks a lot for the tipp with the salad spinner, that really helped me with the drying.
I have never developed vision 3 in E6. The optimal process for vision 3 films is ECN-2!
@@therealsirrobin thanks for replying. i think i will stick to the c-41 process
Thanks for sharing. I’m pumped to try it out
After the closure of Tetenal ADOX is continuing this kit under the C-TEC E-6 name.
I never actually developed my own film - looks like a good time to give it a try
Black and white is so easy but I was a bit nervous of C41 at first but starting to get the hang of it
always great videos and great shirts!
Nice! I use that same salad spinner too! Lol
Haha!
@@therealsirrobin My bathrom tap is the same! :-)
Tetenal colortec is the best after using it you won’t be able to use any other it’s so much better Then the rest!👍 I keep my tank in that 100F water all the time
Don't You worry that film is still developing during rinsing beetween each chemical? You can overexpose it. Nice channel btw! :)
No, without developer it's not possible.
Why did you have to make it look so easy !.... ha ha ha. Just ordered the new Zine :)
Hi! How many times can you reuse the kit? Can you store it in the freezer and use it again after 3 months? I am afraid that i do the investment but i don't shoot enough. For b&w i keep the developer in the freezer for years and had no issues but here i asume there will be color changes or even worst.
It should be good for 20-30 rolls but not sure about the shelf life and if putting it in the freezer would make it alst longer without any issues.
How do you make your zines/photo books?
Just wait for the next video this Sunday!😉
Great video! What is the music?
what is the water heater name?
I don't know why, but sometimes I have a good amount of trouble getting 120 film on reels.
Were all the shots in 28 developed with C-41? What were they scanned with?
28 was shot with Silbersalz35. It is designed to be processed with the real cinefilm ECN2-process only. You won't get far with C-41.
There was a major lawsuit in the US regarding ECN-2 film being sold under the auspicious that it could only be developed by the company who repackaged it... en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seattle_FilmWorks
What are you going to do with all the chemicals? Did you just drain them into the sink? Doesn’t that harm the environment? Anyways great vidro
Great stuff. Hadn't seen that before. Neugierig about the pics...
Hm. Safety notes: Latex gloves are not chemical resistant. The chem can leach through the gloves fairly easily. Nitrile gloves are a better option. It might be a good idea to talk about proper room ventilation too.
Thank you! The gloves rarely get in touch with the chemicals, I am trying to avoid that if possible. The room I develop in is fairly large and a window is opened most of the time.
Zine kam am Freitag an. Großartige Bilder! Hast du Silbersalz Filme @ Boxspeed geschossen?
Francis Bombus Silbersalz empfiehlt selber den Film 0,5 bis +1 Stop über zu belichten. Wenn das Licht die Möglichkeit gibt ergibt das auch die besten Ergebnisse.
...das wusste ich. Mich interessiert wie Robin das bei seinen Bildern gehandhabt hat.
Digging the have heart shirt
Great video! I try C41following your video and worked very well. Thanks. Now I will E6... ;-)
Yo, sick Have Heart shirt! I saw them in LA at Sound and Fury for one of their “reunion” gigs. which date did you catch??
Thank you! 🤘 Saw them in Germany. 🤗
When rinsing between the color developers, does water temperature matter?
Also SICK HAVE HEART SHIRT!!!
Thank you! Yes, it does matter. The appropriate temperature range should be in the manual that comes with each developer.
I use a sous vide to heat up the water, that cine still heater was too much money lol
"Oh wow.." > and proceeds to wrap everything up in a cliff hanger-tease :-p
Interesting video. Thank you for reminding me why I enjoy shooting digital so much.
😅
You don't have to develop it yourself if you don't want to, though. You're missing out haha
NEVER KNOW THAT YOU ARE FANS OF HAVE HEART
Big Have Heart fan! 🤘
Awesome
Brilliant!
The salad spinner is genius
Have Heart shirt! Simpathie-Punkte steigen weiter!
🤘
so is there no re-exposure for reversal film???
It is chemically fogged at one of the steps in e-6, people do it by light to eliminate the need for another chemical in the recipe.It would be a pita to fog by light in a commercial lab setting.
Zine ordered. :D
Thank you Tom! 👌
You didn't take those with a Leica.
Liking for the shirt
🤘
Have Heart 👌🏻
They totally killed it two weeks ago. 🤘
the_real_sir_robin dachte die Band hat sich aufgelöst
I can mot imagine the incredible resolution of a MF slide... 0_o'
A Have Heart t-shirt, Fucking sick!
''Easy''
I wanna believe you but... didn't see the film enter or exit the changing bag and the washing water at temp just felt bogus... forgive me because you are trying to teach and help but when making a peanut butter sandwich for a man from mars you can't leave out a step or not explain what the hell is a loaf of bread!
I can not approve your way to develop E-6 slides, the way you do may cause an underdevelopment and some damage to the film. You don't rince the film with water from the faucet (tap) but you have to stay at 38°C even for the washing in between and the lack of agitation isn't really counterbalanced by 30 seconds more. C41 can be processed this way but E6 needs more precision.
You can do whatever you want but it works for me without any issues. The longer developing time was to compensate for a developer that has already been used for a couple of rolls.
Fujicator this is why, when I developed E-6, I used an insulated rotary bath and my rinse water for all stages was kept in the water bath.
Images are certainly good but I will not consider your images better because you shot them with the Leica M6 camera! Why do you have to say that you shot them with Leica M6? I'm also an analog photographer but most of you UA-camrs photographers always talk about your expensive cameras primarily and then after them about the images,it should be the other way around!
It is just a tool! I am sorry it is my opinion!
He developed medium format film in this video.
You certainly have never done a UA-cam video yourself. If you don't mention it, people will ask. My question is rather why you get upset by simply mentioning a camera brand?
@@therealsirrobin I don't mean to offend you, I think your pictures are pretty good! In my view of things, when you first mention the tool then you put what is more important in the background and that is the image! I don't mind you mentioning the tool in this case it's Leica but I wouldn't put the tool in the first place but the image. Psychologically, when I look at the situation, It seems that your tool is more important than the image is, I believe that in your case it is not so, but it seems like it is ,especially when it comes to Leica camera . Cheers!