+Balu, Now that I think about it, I see what you mean... I just ordered a kit that isn't here yet but I watch these build videos even for models I'm not interested in, lol.
That is precisely what I did: watch the vid as I built it. At 52 yo, I built my first rc plane and started my successfull flying experience. Thanks guys!!
thank you flite test. This foamboard approach is what the hobby needed. I flew gas 15 years ago and stopped because of the fear to crash. I just built my simple cub with your kit and watched almost every video you have. Thanks from Colombia.
Hey guys... just recieving my first order. This Cub kit with the Power B kit. I gotta say, I'm really impressed with the packaging. Love having the plastic kit for the power gear and the screw driver is solid and a nice bonus. Can't believe I'm excited and even commenting on packaging but...it does show a commitment to excellence and customer satisfaction. Well done. Man... I see a future of bank statements with Flite Test littered all over it. :-). Keep up the good work boys. Hope you build an empire of financial security for you and your families doing what you love. Cherish it! So few are as fortunate!
I love these videos! Soon after watching 20 or more I will go for it. I ran rc gassers 30 years ago. Josh B, with his calm, patient teaching approach has sold me. Not only on their company and the quality of the product line; but the comfort level to get back in with electric light-weight Lipo craft. Josh is their best marketing tool for the hobby. He lives it every day and he can build and fly literally everything like a pro.
My dad got me and my brothers playing with those nitromethane engines on line control planes and little balsa swamp boats and that was part of what I was looking for when I came back to hobby stuff like this. I even picked up a couple old used plane engines off eBay before deciding that electric just made more sense. Here I am following Josh Bixler's lead instead of my own father!
You guys aren't craftsmen, your artisans in the traditional sense. What a great idea you'll had and to share it with all of us. Creating memories... right? Great stuff! Peter...he's a bit artisan, engineer and mad scientist! :-)
I'm a multi rotor Man but I watched the build beginning to end, I was very impressed with the tutorial and think I'll give it a go... Thank you for being and doing what you guys do! It's a great hobbyists world and it's nice to have gracious pioneers and spokesmen+ like Flight Test.
I think the best thing about the new cub and its mods are how the landing and pontoons pop in. I've been looking for the best way to do removable gear and couldn't find it, but this just might be the perfect way.
Mr Bixler you are an excellent teacher. I use Depron and UHU POR or CA glue (instead of DT Foamboard and - for H sake - hot glue) but your multiple tips and tricks are universal for anyone interested in model aircraft building. Thank you so much.
Hi Josh. Just a fantastic informative summary. Great vision too. Not easy to produce either. You have such a warm and gentle manner as well. Kudos to you and your team. From down under 👍
Thank you Flite Test for the free downloadable Plans and the instructional Videos. I'm building myself through the whole FT airplane family. Mostly I like to scratchbuild, but I also did some speed build kits like the mini cruiser, the mini sportster and spear, if they are available in Switzerland. I specially like the Goblin, which flew just fantatic from the maiden, and then of course I learn from every crash..... Actually for the landing gear I took only 2 mm steel (cause the 2.5 mm was to hard to handle) and 75 mm wheels.
You guys are super helpful, Thank You! Just 2 little suggestions if you don't mind. If you plan to fly ailerons as I did you may want to completely carve those out while the wings are flat, before molding and adding dihedral. Wing was hard for me to hold just right and I accidentally cut all the way through 1 aileron and crinkled the wing up a bit but I fixed it. Also it may help to skewer in the power pod before mounting elevator and rudder servos. I mounted my tail servos way high then realized I didn't have the tail end of the pod pushed down near enough. I scraped servos off and remounted a little lower. Other than that you wont find and easier, cheaper way to get airborne then going with FliteTest. Thanks again!
You guys are the greatest inspiration I ever had. You inspired me to get into the R.C. aircraft hobby. This was my first plane. It is the most fun thing I have ever done! Love you guys!
This hands down is the best plane flite test has designed. If you’re thinking about building one, stop thinking and do it! It’s super simple to build and a blast to fly! I fly mine off a c pack for a super cub feel and a little longer flight time but the b pack is also good. I can attest that no mater what skill level you are, you’re gonna have a blast with this plane!
Great video and awesome kit! My build included ailerons from the get go (I actually setup flaperons since I was using a 6 channel receiver). They work great! I also installed Turnigy's RC LED Lighting system (minus landing lights). The power lead plugs into the spare channel on the receiver, and the lights are run through the wing spar to the wingtips. I carved thin channels in the foam on the under side of the wing tip and used gorilla clear tape to seal the cables in place. A dab of hot glue holds each LED in place. I put a flashing red LED on the top of the tail and on the belly under the cockpit with wires running through the body. The lights look really great! Lastly, I hit up my local hobby shop for wheels and my local hardware store for 1/8" c clips, washers, and lock nuts. After bending the main gear and hot gluing into place, I attached a C clip, washer, wheel, washer, and C clip in that order to each side. The lock nut press fits over the wire which was cut short. I used some leftover push rod wire to form the tail wheel support which I hot glued into channels cut into the bottom of the rudder for a steerable tail wheel! I've not put on the cockpit decals yet - still mulling over a paint scheme. Awesome plane!
Forgot to add one tip! No matter how well I seal my hot glue A and B joints, I find the paper eventually works its way loose on the edges. My fix is to use some super strong clear Scotch tape to seal the edges of the fuselage. This adds minimal weight and keeps the plane looking great despite any rough handling. Cheers!
AWESOME!!!!l This is such a wonderful thing you guys are doing for the hobby. You are truly making it accessible to everyone! Love you guys, can't wait to start building them with my children.
The Wings curves up basically makes planes more stable on the roll acsis, so it is good for beginners, (no offense) but not necessary, You could most likely be able to mount it to the fuselage, although it might require some modification to the wing or fuselage.
Mad respect for Flite Test for using their Power Pod system, really great way to enable people to mess around with loads of different airframes without breaking the bank, just buy some foamboard sheets and U can make any FT design. Something I think would be quite nice is if Flite Test were to make a 3D printing file for the power pack Ecell as just a single printable piece that you just screw the motor to. It would really improve durability of the pack
I have always have ben interested in planes especially the spitfire and p 51 and seeing videos of people making smaller versions of them blow my mind. So now actually finding a channel with DIY rc planes is amazing. I can't wait to make my first rc plane.
Thank you so much for this build! It was incredibly simple to build, the electronics were difficult to position but manageable, and I made multiple mistakes on the way, but it looks beautiful. This is my 2nd airplane and my first was the UMX radian and that is a 3 channel. I highly recommend this airplane, I'm just a beginner and I had to get used to the new controls yet it flew like an absolute dream. It is so slow in the air, like a lumbering giant. The wheels popped off because I didn't have sufficient glue holding them on so thats something to think about. all in all, it has been a wonderful experience.
Australia ...a complete knucklehead's perspective...Ordered two FT CUB kits from NSW Australia. FIRST TIME buyers, builders, fliers...Kit took several days to be dispatched from US as one of the items I ordered was 'currently out of stock'. However, it took the best part of six weeks for the order to be delivered to my door as once in Sydney the couriers took a lazy four weeks to get it to Newcastle. Foam kits, motor packs and esc's arrived in perfect condition so if you're contemplating ordering from Aus then don't be afraid. Have been using a 'Surebonder Hi/Lo Temp Hot Glue Gun' bought from Spotlight Rutherford, NSW. 'Surebonde'r takes the fat glue sticks and have used the 'Power gloo Sticks High Temp 12 piece pack' also available from Spotlight (pretty purple packaging). One 12 piece pack is enough to build an FT Cub. The trickiest part of the build so far has been cutting the double bevels required for the hinge on the rudder and elevators. I recommend attempting this with no more than four beers as eight beers was too much. Significant tape repair required. Josh also recommends in his video build laying down a very thin bead of hot glue along the hinge joint. Until you're very familiar with hot glue I would suggest either omitting this step or sticking to the four beer limit as my cocked-up double bevel with tape rescue once covered with eight beers of hot glue has resulted in a very stiff elevator join that I'm not sure will actually move with the servos. Watch this space... Just a note for newbies that the youtube video build of the powerpod appears to be at odds with the final assembly. By that I mean that in the power pod build, Josh pushes the motor leads immediately down thru the powerpod, attaches the motor leads to the esc on the bottom of the powerpod, then pushes the battery connector thru the bottom of the powerpod into the inside of the powerpod. My understanding is that on the FT Cub, the battery is velcro'd to the bottom of the powerpod as seen in the final build scenes on youtube. That being the case, it seems you are better off mounting the motor as per the video, esc and receiver then sit INSIDE the powerpod with only the battery connector needing to poke thru the bottom of the powerpod ready to connect to the battery as needed. Someone correct me if I am wrong, but that's how I'm seeing it. If you're unsure then just wait until your model is 95%complete before deciding where the final position of esc will be... You can't order Li-po batteries from FliteTest to Australia. They can't be mailed to Aus due to the potential fire risk. I've ordered several batteries online (ebay) and I've also bought directly from Frontline Hobbies in Newcastle. The esc that comes from FliteTest will have an XT-60 battery connector (at the time of writing) but connectors are not a big deal. If needed you can cut and re-solder a 'more available' connector. Order or buy connectors from any RC hobby store. The original specs for the FT Cub 'B Motor Kit' used a 1300mAh 11.1v 75c battery. As I understand it, the 11.1v is not really negotiable as a trainer model. Its voltage is created by the joining of three cells to create 11.1v. For newbies, my understanding is that 1300mAh is, for arguments sake, a 13L tank of fuel. A 2200mAh 11.1v 75c battery is just a tank of fuel that holds 22L instead of 13L. It is therefore larger and heavier. 2200mAh is the largest suggested for the Cub build. I have no idea how long the flite time will be with 1300 vs 2200mAh, but I'm guessing I'll crash well before 1300 so 2200 is like me buying a HondaCRF450X when what I need is a YamahaXT250.... 75c in the battery title relates to the peak? discharge????? (again, open to rebuttal) The 'B Motor' packs have been linked to 11.1v batteries that fall anywhere between the 35c and 75c range. If we go back to the fuel tank analogy, a 35c battery has a small diameter fuel pipe to deliver the 11.1v. Whereas a 75c battery has a significantly larger fuel pipe to deliver the same 11.1v. The lowest advertised 'c' value I have seen with the 'B Motor Kit' is a 35c battery. Well, what does that all mean in reality... It means that to order or buy a 'B Motor' compatible battery in Australia for the FT Cub, we are looking for any battery that is 11.1v, somewhere between 800 to 2200mAh and has a 'c' rating between 35 and 75?c. Again, I am new to this so if I'm spinning eight beer bullshit then someone correct me. I'm writing this based on a very steep eight week learning curve and trying to steer my Aussie buddies in a semi-right direction... Transmitters...I chased an ad on Gumtree locally for a Spectrum DX6i for $50AU. It has the digital screen at the bottom of the controller for adjustments, it appears to be in full working order and I've been able to 'bond' it to the receiver that FliteTest sent me. The Cub is a 'Parkflyer' with the intention of close range flying. I have no idea of the range of my transmitter, but again, I figure I will crash it well before it goes out of sight. If you have a local Aeromodelling club, it may be useful to source a transmitter that is compatible with the preferred 'flavour' of your club. ie. if they all fly Futaba then it would be easier to link your Futaba transmitter to a club members Futaba for training purposes. If you buy a Cub kit with Spectrum Receiver it is unlikely (or impossible) to play nicely with a Futaba transmitter. Spectrum-Spektrum, Futaba- Futaba... Spektrum SPAR620 DSM2/DSMX 6 Channel Receiver... There are numerous videos that show how to 'bind' an AR6100? receiver to a Spectrum transmitter using a 'bind plug'. AR6100 have an antenna. However, FliteTest are currently shipping an antenna-less 620 that has no bind plug. To bind a 620 receiver to a DX6i transmitter, plug the esc into the second port of the receiver. (note that this port when the battery is connected to the esc will provide both power to the esc, AND connect power to the motor). Connect an 11.v battery to the esc connector. The esc should beep and fart. Hold the 'Trainer/ Bind' Button up on your Spectrum controller as you turn slide the controller on button to the right. On a digital Transmitter the word 'bind' should be displayed in the screen. Listen for more beeps and farts. Let go of the trainer lever. Transmitter and receiver should now be connected. Model number apparently can now be entered... Disconnect battery and turn off transmitter. Pull throttle stick to off. Reconnect battery and turn on transmitter. Receiver should beep and squark. I don't fully understand, but the receiver is asking how far you can push the throttle forward, so push left stick all the way forward. It will beep and fart, then pull LH stick all the way back, Beep and fart. Then push forward and the motor should spin...counterclockwise if viewed from in front. If you're building the most basic FT Cub, and FT send you a SPAR620. That is, you are building a 3 channel FT Cub. You'll be building the basic kit at four beers or less, you will be attaching push rods to the rudder and elevators only (no ailerons). Your three channels will be rudder, elevator and throttle. On the SPMAR620 receiver, these actions relate directly to ports 2,3 and 4 Port 2 is throttle (plus power to the esc) Port 3 is rudder... lefty-righty (would normally be aileron) Port 4 is elevator...uppy-downy I'm in Maitland and today is more windy than than a bad curry, so I'm not in a hurry to test my Cub today, but if you're local, then let me know and let's set a four beer limit!!!!! Aus knuckleheads... If I'm wrong in any of the above, just burn me as necessary.... Knucklehead....
Sure, bro! I've been watching quite a few of these vids since I just ordered a Duster kit so I figured I could suggest a vid to you that might help. I know how it is, you wanna get your plane set up and be out there flying rather than waiting for that other vid to post.
Thank you guys so much for giving me and my dad a opportunity to have fun together he is gone a lot and this is a great opportunity for us thank you guys so much I really appreciate it
guys you are the coolest rc plane gang on the internet! Excellent plans and explanations although for european built plane you need to adjust the plans a little. 3/16" thick foamboard is not quite 5mm ( EU standard foam sheet ). But adding up a little here and there and bingo! Greetings from Romania ;)
You guys are awesome. I’ve been looking for an inexpensive way to introduce kids to the hobby. I think this is the perfect plane to use. Thanks so much.
When folding and gluing your wing, you could use sand bags to give a more even distribution of pressure over the surface of the wing to ensure that the final glue joints are uniform and that there is no distortion in the surface of the wing.
I would love to see you build this plane as a scratch build using foam board from Walmart, Dollar Tree, or a store like it. Start from printing the plans to finish.
There are some articles in the articles section that describe how to print the plans, transfer to poster board and then to DTFB (Dollar Tree Foam Board.) Beware that some foam boards are much heavier and might make for a less than good flying experience. Adams brand DTFB is basically what Flitetest uses. The brown board is water resistant, but other than that, it is basically DTFB.
Im doing it right now, is a little more work but the blue prints are fine, just add some reference lines to guide yourself when you put them together.I 'm using foam from the Dollar tree and descent, just use very good knifes to cut perfect and use also a good metal long ruler to cut.I will post pics when is done.
At 5:30, before you glue on the firewall, check your engine. The new engines are now reversed of this video, so the firewall should be glued opposite way of how Josh is showing it. I had to drill a new hole in the opposite corner to pass the wires through, as the motor won't mount the same way anymore.
@@bernarddostie8892 i know its been a long time since you posted this, was just wandering did the cub you bought come with a transmitter. I dont see anywhere on the website that it says it does but it also doesnt list a transmitter under the needed to complete area.
@@lanemcmurtry4546 no the transmitter is not included. When I purchased the kit last Christmas there was an option to buy the power pack, a battery and the transmitter, but they changed their options on the online store. Personally I bought de Dx6e. I'm satisfied with it. It is one of the cheapest option! Good luck
My motor didnt fit in any of the holes No adapter came in the kit, no instructions. And that was just step 2 or 3. Not really looking forward to find out what else is wrong.
A comment by sparehand65 mentions the ESC location on the power pack tray at the very beginning of the "Simple Cub Build" and the end of the video shows the XT battery connector coming out the front bottom of the plane which of course can't happen with THREE INCH LONG ESC Wiring! Either an extension battery wire is needed or a relocation of the ESC is required. I purchased two Simple Cubs last month for a grandson and I to build and fly together. I built mine first as the "Guinea Pig" so his build would be less problematic. The build videos are always well done and an excellent source of reassurance for first time builders and new flyers but I think this video needs "readdressed" since ESC and battery locations are a vital part of any assembly instructions. I'm curious why no one else has mentioned this? Are sparehand and myself the only two people who had problems with their build?
Great tutorial Josh!! I now know which kit I'm going to buy so I can get back into r/c flying. Looking forward to more informative videos from Flite Test! Thanks!!👍
truly excellent the way you help people build their first plane. me and my dad will be getting one of these simple cubs and it will be our first ever rc plane build. moving from the horizon hobby champ S+ to this. hopefully wont be too large of a jump and i will be able to control it! :)
Any recommendations on paint choices? I’d like to get the floats and have this on the water so I was hoping you knew the best paint for that. Awesome videos!
The power pod shown at the beginning of the video (13:42) is not the same as the one at the end of the video (1:21:21). Following these instructions to the letter does not inform the viewer where to put the ESC, where to run the battery lead, and whether the battery or ESC should be mounted to the underside of the power pod.
I built it from the downloaded plans. Still waiting for some electronics to arrive from China, but I tested it as a chuck glider and it glides like a dream. Unnervingly large, by the way. Josh must be quite a big guy, it looks quite small in his hands.
On Amazon www.amazon.com/Officemate-Recycled-Heavy-Dispenser-96690/dp/B010CEH7BS/ref=sr_1_1?srs=7301146011&ie=UTF8&qid=1500079948&sr=8-1&keywords=2%22+Tape+Dispenser
Simply ingenious. I've been around model airplane flying since the control line days and this is the best yet for getting out and flying and having fun.
LOL. It was my desire to share line control planes with my son that got me back into this hobby. Now we both fly quads, helis, fixed wings and deltas. I blame Josh Bixler.
I'm confused... 13:30 The powerpack is setup with the ESC on the bottom and passing the wires inside for the battery. 1:21:40 The battery wire is coming out from the bottom of the powerpack and the battery is velcro'd to the bottom, not inside it.
Perfect job. It would be gratifying for Brazilian followers to see the construction of a Brazilian plane such as the (ipanema EMB 203) or the (super tucano). Hugs..🤙
Hi from Hong Kong, maybe you should include that you need tape in the "need to complete" list on the website? I know you included Misc. Building Supplies, but no offence, but that wasn't really helpful...And you definitely should put the servo/motor tester on the need to complete list too!
Josh updated the push rod installation and routing (shown on this video ~58:10), the new way is in the FT Simple Cub Livestream video as part of the *fuselage build* around the 1:22:00 mark: ua-cam.com/video/cvuU2hrXJxY/v-deo.html
Hey Josh Bixler, just got your Version 2 "B" power kit along with your Simple Cub kit. I have successfully flown the Dromida Sky Cruiser pusher prop 3 CH trainer, so I am ready to build after watching your build video several times. Looks like a great flier ! I am thinking of going ahead and at least adding the ailerons on this as I have the channels and servos already. I don't have to use them at first. I am thinking the classic Piper Cub yellow paint scheme, gotta watch your paint video, add the decals last ! Thanks again !
In the video a 5 gram servo is used and the 4 horn is cut for the shortest arm. The power B kit has 9 gram servos with different multi hole horns. Should the single arm horn be used and pick the inner hole?
Have a question for you guys, Can you mount the servos in the tail of the cub, just got my kit built it following this video, spot on Josh is easy to follow and goes through everything,
Did I miss the part where you show how to mount the battery? At the end you stick it the front during the balance process, and it sounds like it has Velcro on it. I’ve watched a few times and didn’t see anything with the Velcro. Edit: looking again, when you mount the ESC, the battery connector is pushed from the bottom up via the rear hole. At the end of the video you show the battery connector coming down from the front hole of the power pack. Very confusing!
Hi Josh, love the planes and videos, you truly give the gift of flight, I had never flown an rc plane before, I built 12 of your planes and ordered power pack a , first I flew the mini speedster, then the tiny trainer, and the set is ready, I just received powe pack b for simple cub, I watched video several times and I'm confused, at beginning of video you show power pod with wire going in pod then out hole on bottom, esc is taped to bottom of pod then all wire go back in to the pod, I assumed the battery was to go in pod through hole under wing, but when you finish build the battery wire is shown coming out bottom of pod at first hole and you put battery under pod, I'm confused do I put esc inside pod, will it get enough air, please help, thanks
Thank you sparehand 65! (I thought I messed up on the Simple Cub build somewhere!) I notice one comment from another customer who mentioned the "Live Bixler Build" (on UA-cam) shows Josh installing the pushrods differently (then on this video), so I reviewed the video several times and your absolutely right! The Simple Cub Build shows the ESC wiring coming out the front of the plane which is impossible to do with the 3 inch ESC battery leads! I had originally taped my ESC to the bottom of the power pack tray like he did (early in the video). I noticed the ESC wires to the battery are only two or three inches long so assumed the battery had to go in the power pack tray! I flew it several times with this configuration but decided it was a pain in the !!! to remove the tray every time installing and removing batteries! This can't be right! I then realized there is plenty of room under the motor in the front for a battery there (which meant removing the ESC from the bottom of the tray. I had to reverse the ESC's position (inside the tray so the short ESC wires would be closer to the front and out the front tray's hole to reach the battery). This made much more sense. Going back and reviewing the build video, he does show the ESC's XT connector in the front. Why hasn't anyone else mentioned this? I'm no newbie but if I were, this would have made no sense and I probably would have gotten very frustrated and stopped building planes from scratch? This led to another question, why are the battery leads on ESC's so short? My research said you can extend the wires a little without causing excess resistance in the wiring and not harming the ESC so I think Josh should make an "amended" video showing installing the ESC, BATTERY, and how to adjust the CG (center of gravity) by changing the battery location. The current video is excellent (as are all his Vids, but he should correct his errors, especially when it involves battery locations on his planes.
If you print your own plans the notching on the fuse stiffener is opposite than the one he is building plans have opposite notching but the fuse plans show them the same direction
Got to agree with you on the tape. Best thing ever is coloured packing tape from online suppliers. Cheap, strong and easy to use. With a bit of thought you can create pretty amazing colour schemes with very little weight gain compared to strength gained. Has anybody done a test on tapes for adhesion,strength, longevity, flexibility and price? It is also possible to get personalised tape pretty inexpensively maybe flite test branded tape as a merch idea?.
Hi, a question from a beginner builder here. I already have an airfoil built from before with no defects. I was wondering if I can build a fuselage and just attach MY wings to it. And I was also wondering if it would be an issue if my wings are completely straight unlike the slightly curved up wings as shown in this build. Thanks in advance.
It your wings are straight (which means they have no dihedral), you need to cut out ailerons and have a 4 Channel (or add dihedral). Make sure the wingspan is at least 38" in. and chord is at least 6" in.
So, in the video you show that you put the battery connector inside the power pod but then you show an example of the battery mounted under the power ood. I suspect it needs to go in the power pod. Can you confirm. I would think that's what the velcro tap is for. One side battery in side INSIDE the power ood once you figure the CG. But, I can see in going under the power pod as well to keep it cool. So, which is it? ;-)
Hi Just adding another challenge...A Piper L4 using the Brodie Landing System should be a great test of your flying skills, what do you think????.....O and talking about boats what about a carrier landing......happy landings
DUDE!! You guys are awesome!! I wanna get a dozen or so... or not... I think one or two would get me going well. So how do you paint and such?? Really great video!!
From electronics you're going to need Tx and Rx (cheapest good option - flysky i6 +iA6), 30A ESC with BEC, 3s (11,1v) ~1000-1500mah LiPo, 4 x 9g Tower pro servo, lipo charger if you don't have one and motor - look for motor for drones, close to 1000KV that'll work with 10' prop, possibly a motor for any Phantom drone - plenty of those in web and prices are low.
This was an awesome video I loved it, my father when I was a small child built RC planes all the time he also was a pilot for many different airplanes and helicopters. He passed away in 2019 he always wanted me to get into RC planes he liked them way more than my Traxxas Xmax lol and the drones I went to purchase this kit but it says the link does not exist is there a new link I like this model and would enjoy building it and learning how to fly thanks again for an awesome video I hope to hear back from you thanks
Josh Bixler is like the Bob Ross of RC.
Haha, totally!
You'd be amazed at how many people just watch Josh build without even having the intention of building the plane itself. It's so calming. :)
+Balu, Now that I think about it, I see what you mean... I just ordered a kit that isn't here yet but I watch these build videos even for models I'm not interested in, lol.
Ian Thomas yes
+Balu I'm one of those guys
That is precisely what I did: watch the vid as I built it. At 52 yo, I built my first rc plane and started my successfull flying experience. Thanks guys!!
@Joshua Biela dude you have to buy it yourself, read the description before you buy anything
I would recommend a dx6e transmitter
I'm thinking that's what I'm going to do.
thank you flite test. This foamboard approach is what the hobby needed. I flew gas 15 years ago and stopped because of the fear to crash. I just built my simple cub with your kit and watched almost every video you have. Thanks from Colombia.
Hey guys... just recieving my first order. This Cub kit with the Power B kit. I gotta say, I'm really impressed with the packaging. Love having the plastic kit for the power gear and the screw driver is solid and a nice bonus. Can't believe I'm excited and even commenting on packaging but...it does show a commitment to excellence and customer satisfaction. Well done. Man... I see a future of bank statements with Flite Test littered all over it. :-). Keep up the good work boys. Hope you build an empire of financial security for you and your families doing what you love. Cherish it! So few are as fortunate!
This guy is the nicest most calm and most informative guy ever. Thankyou!
I love these videos! Soon after watching 20 or more I will go for it. I ran rc gassers 30 years ago. Josh B, with his calm, patient teaching approach has sold me. Not only on their company and the quality of the product line; but the comfort level to get back in with electric light-weight Lipo craft. Josh is their best marketing tool for the hobby. He lives it every day and he can build and fly literally everything like a pro.
Good luck with your electric adventure, so much fun! :)
My dad got me and my brothers playing with those nitromethane engines on line control planes and little balsa swamp boats and that was part of what I was looking for when I came back to hobby stuff like this. I even picked up a couple old used plane engines off eBay before deciding that electric just made more sense. Here I am following Josh Bixler's lead instead of my own father!
You guys aren't craftsmen, your artisans in the traditional sense. What a great idea you'll had and to share it with all of us. Creating memories... right? Great stuff!
Peter...he's a bit artisan, engineer and mad scientist! :-)
I'm a multi rotor Man but I watched the build beginning to end, I was very impressed with the tutorial and think I'll give it a go...
Thank you for being and doing what you guys do! It's a great hobbyists world and it's nice to have gracious pioneers and spokesmen+ like Flight Test.
I'm a hoverboy also but they have convinced me to try fixed wing. Figured I would start with the Cub which I'm in the process of building now.
I think the best thing about the new cub and its mods are how the landing and pontoons pop in. I've been looking for the best way to do removable gear and couldn't find it, but this just might be the perfect way.
Mr Bixler you are an excellent teacher. I use Depron and UHU POR or CA glue (instead of DT Foamboard and - for H sake - hot glue) but your multiple tips and tricks are universal for anyone interested in model aircraft building. Thank you so much.
Does the UHU work well for this?
Just finished my second plane ever. The Simple Cub. Bixler! You are my hero.
Hi Josh. Just a fantastic informative summary. Great vision too. Not easy to produce either. You have such a warm and gentle manner as well. Kudos to you and your team. From down under 👍
Thank you Flite Test for the free downloadable Plans and the instructional Videos.
I'm building myself through the whole FT airplane family. Mostly I like to scratchbuild, but I also did some speed build kits like the mini cruiser, the mini sportster and spear, if they are available in Switzerland. I specially like the Goblin, which flew just fantatic from the maiden, and then of course I learn from every crash.....
Actually for the landing gear I took only 2 mm steel (cause the 2.5 mm was to hard to handle) and 75 mm wheels.
You guys are super helpful, Thank You! Just 2 little suggestions if you don't mind. If you plan to fly ailerons as I did you may want to completely carve those out while the wings are flat, before molding and adding dihedral. Wing was hard for me to hold just right and I accidentally cut all the way through 1 aileron and crinkled the wing up a bit but I fixed it. Also it may help to skewer in the power pod before mounting elevator and rudder servos. I mounted my tail servos way high then realized I didn't have the tail end of the pod pushed down near enough. I scraped servos off and remounted a little lower. Other than that you wont find and easier, cheaper way to get airborne then going with FliteTest. Thanks again!
You guys are the greatest inspiration I ever had. You inspired me to get into the R.C. aircraft hobby. This was my first plane. It is the most fun thing I have ever done! Love you guys!
This hands down is the best plane flite test has designed. If you’re thinking about building one, stop thinking and do it! It’s super simple to build and a blast to fly! I fly mine off a c pack for a super cub feel and a little longer flight time but the b pack is also good. I can attest that no mater what skill level you are, you’re gonna have a blast with this plane!
Great video and awesome kit! My build included ailerons from the get go (I actually setup flaperons since I was using a 6 channel receiver). They work great! I also installed Turnigy's RC LED Lighting system (minus landing lights). The power lead plugs into the spare channel on the receiver, and the lights are run through the wing spar to the wingtips. I carved thin channels in the foam on the under side of the wing tip and used gorilla clear tape to seal the cables in place. A dab of hot glue holds each LED in place. I put a flashing red LED on the top of the tail and on the belly under the cockpit with wires running through the body. The lights look really great! Lastly, I hit up my local hobby shop for wheels and my local hardware store for 1/8" c clips, washers, and lock nuts. After bending the main gear and hot gluing into place, I attached a C clip, washer, wheel, washer, and C clip in that order to each side. The lock nut press fits over the wire which was cut short. I used some leftover push rod wire to form the tail wheel support which I hot glued into channels cut into the bottom of the rudder for a steerable tail wheel! I've not put on the cockpit decals yet - still mulling over a paint scheme. Awesome plane!
Forgot to add one tip! No matter how well I seal my hot glue A and B joints, I find the paper eventually works its way loose on the edges. My fix is to use some super strong clear Scotch tape to seal the edges of the fuselage. This adds minimal weight and keeps the plane looking great despite any rough handling. Cheers!
You are my Sunshine, my only Sunshine. You make happy, when skies are grey.
AWESOME!!!!l This is such a wonderful thing you guys are doing for the hobby. You are truly making it accessible to everyone! Love you guys, can't wait to start building them with my children.
The Wings curves up basically makes planes more stable on the roll acsis, so it is good for beginners, (no offense) but not necessary, You could most likely be able to mount it to the fuselage, although it might require some modification to the wing or fuselage.
I have no plans to build this plane, but I will sing you are my sunshine as this plays in the background. Josh is nice background noise for working.
Mad respect for Flite Test for using their Power Pod system, really great way to enable people to mess around with loads of different airframes without breaking the bank, just buy some foamboard sheets and U can make any FT design.
Something I think would be quite nice is if Flite Test were to make a 3D printing file for the power pack Ecell as just a single printable piece that you just screw the motor to. It would really improve durability of the pack
I just ordered mine I can not WAIT flite test your Awesome thanks for all you do you guys are the ones who inspire me the most thank you very much!!!
I'm guessing you know this is a gold mine of knowledge and in other areas.
for anyone in Canada wanting flitetest products great hobbies sells almost all of them
I have always have ben interested in planes especially the spitfire and p 51 and seeing videos of people making smaller versions of them blow my mind. So now actually finding a channel with DIY rc planes is amazing. I can't wait to make my first rc plane.
Thank you so much for this build! It was incredibly simple to build, the electronics were difficult to position but manageable, and I made multiple mistakes on the way, but it looks beautiful. This is my 2nd airplane and my first was the UMX radian and that is a 3 channel. I highly recommend this airplane, I'm just a beginner and I had to get used to the new controls yet it flew like an absolute dream. It is so slow in the air, like a lumbering giant. The wheels popped off because I didn't have sufficient glue holding them on so thats something to think about. all in all, it has been a wonderful experience.
hi Rowan....I ended up adding acorn nuts to the ends, A little extra just hot glued on there...plus they are chrome....so more bling!
Awesome flight by Riley from Alabama. Thanks a Million 👍👍
Australia ...a complete knucklehead's perspective...Ordered two FT CUB kits from NSW Australia. FIRST TIME buyers, builders, fliers...Kit took several days to be dispatched from US as one of the items I ordered was 'currently out of stock'. However, it took the best part of six weeks for the order to be delivered to my door as once in Sydney the couriers took a lazy four weeks to get it to Newcastle. Foam kits, motor packs and esc's arrived in perfect condition so if you're contemplating ordering from Aus then don't be afraid.
Have been using a 'Surebonder Hi/Lo Temp Hot Glue Gun' bought from Spotlight Rutherford, NSW. 'Surebonde'r takes the fat glue sticks and have used the 'Power gloo Sticks High Temp 12 piece pack' also available from Spotlight (pretty purple packaging). One 12 piece pack is enough to build an FT Cub.
The trickiest part of the build so far has been cutting the double bevels required for the hinge on the rudder and elevators. I recommend attempting this with no more than four beers as eight beers was too much. Significant tape repair required. Josh also recommends in his video build laying down a very thin bead of hot glue along the hinge joint. Until you're very familiar with hot glue I would suggest either omitting this step or sticking to the four beer limit as my cocked-up double bevel with tape rescue once covered with eight beers of hot glue has resulted in a very stiff elevator join that I'm not sure will actually move with the servos. Watch this space...
Just a note for newbies that the youtube video build of the powerpod appears to be at odds with the final assembly. By that I mean that in the power pod build, Josh pushes the motor leads immediately down thru the powerpod, attaches the motor leads to the esc on the bottom of the powerpod, then pushes the battery connector thru the bottom of the powerpod into the inside of the powerpod. My understanding is that on the FT Cub, the battery is velcro'd to the bottom of the powerpod as seen in the final build scenes on youtube. That being the case, it seems you are better off mounting the motor as per the video, esc and receiver then sit INSIDE the powerpod with only the battery connector needing to poke thru the bottom of the powerpod ready to connect to the battery as needed. Someone correct me if I am wrong, but that's how I'm seeing it. If you're unsure then just wait until your model is 95%complete before deciding where the final position of esc will be...
You can't order Li-po batteries from FliteTest to Australia. They can't be mailed to Aus due to the potential fire risk. I've ordered several batteries online (ebay) and I've also bought directly from Frontline Hobbies in Newcastle. The esc that comes from FliteTest will have an XT-60 battery connector (at the time of writing) but connectors are not a big deal. If needed you can cut and re-solder a 'more available' connector. Order or buy connectors from any RC hobby store.
The original specs for the FT Cub 'B Motor Kit' used a 1300mAh 11.1v 75c battery. As I understand it, the 11.1v is not really negotiable as a trainer model. Its voltage is created by the joining of three cells to create 11.1v. For newbies, my understanding is that 1300mAh is, for arguments sake, a 13L tank of fuel. A 2200mAh 11.1v 75c battery is just a tank of fuel that holds 22L instead of 13L. It is therefore larger and heavier. 2200mAh is the largest suggested for the Cub build. I have no idea how long the flite time will be with 1300 vs 2200mAh, but I'm guessing I'll crash well before 1300 so 2200 is like me buying a HondaCRF450X when what I need is a YamahaXT250....
75c in the battery title relates to the peak? discharge????? (again, open to rebuttal) The 'B Motor' packs have been linked to 11.1v batteries that fall anywhere between the 35c and 75c range. If we go back to the fuel tank analogy, a 35c battery has a small diameter fuel pipe to deliver the 11.1v. Whereas a 75c battery has a significantly larger fuel pipe to deliver the same 11.1v. The lowest advertised 'c' value I have seen with the 'B Motor Kit' is a 35c battery. Well, what does that all mean in reality...
It means that to order or buy a 'B Motor' compatible battery in Australia for the FT Cub, we are looking for any battery that is 11.1v, somewhere between 800 to 2200mAh and has a 'c' rating between 35 and 75?c. Again, I am new to this so if I'm spinning eight beer bullshit then someone correct me. I'm writing this based on a very steep eight week learning curve and trying to steer my Aussie buddies in a semi-right direction...
Transmitters...I chased an ad on Gumtree locally for a Spectrum DX6i for $50AU. It has the digital screen at the bottom of the controller for adjustments, it appears to be in full working order and I've been able to 'bond' it to the receiver that FliteTest sent me. The Cub is a 'Parkflyer' with the intention of close range flying. I have no idea of the range of my transmitter, but again, I figure I will crash it well before it goes out of sight.
If you have a local Aeromodelling club, it may be useful to source a transmitter that is compatible with the preferred 'flavour' of your club. ie. if they all fly Futaba then it would be easier to link your Futaba transmitter to a club members Futaba for training purposes. If you buy a Cub kit with Spectrum Receiver it is unlikely (or impossible) to play nicely with a Futaba transmitter. Spectrum-Spektrum, Futaba- Futaba...
Spektrum SPAR620 DSM2/DSMX 6 Channel Receiver...
There are numerous videos that show how to 'bind' an AR6100? receiver to a Spectrum transmitter using a 'bind plug'. AR6100 have an antenna.
However, FliteTest are currently shipping an antenna-less 620 that has no bind plug.
To bind a 620 receiver to a DX6i transmitter, plug the esc into the second port of the receiver. (note that this port when the battery is connected to the esc will provide both power to the esc, AND connect power to the motor).
Connect an 11.v battery to the esc connector.
The esc should beep and fart.
Hold the 'Trainer/ Bind' Button up on your Spectrum controller as you turn slide the controller on button to the right.
On a digital Transmitter the word 'bind' should be displayed in the screen.
Listen for more beeps and farts. Let go of the trainer lever. Transmitter and receiver should now be connected. Model number apparently can now be entered...
Disconnect battery and turn off transmitter. Pull throttle stick to off.
Reconnect battery and turn on transmitter.
Receiver should beep and squark.
I don't fully understand, but the receiver is asking how far you can push the throttle forward, so push left stick all the way forward. It will beep and fart, then pull LH stick all the way back, Beep and fart. Then push forward and the motor should spin...counterclockwise if viewed from in front.
If you're building the most basic FT Cub, and FT send you a SPAR620. That is, you are building a 3 channel FT Cub. You'll be building the basic kit at four beers or less, you will be attaching push rods to the rudder and elevators only (no ailerons). Your three channels will be rudder, elevator and throttle.
On the SPMAR620 receiver, these actions relate directly to ports 2,3 and 4
Port 2 is throttle (plus power to the esc)
Port 3 is rudder... lefty-righty (would normally be aileron)
Port 4 is elevator...uppy-downy
I'm in Maitland and today is more windy than than a bad curry, so I'm not in a hurry to test my Cub today, but if you're local, then let me know and let's set a four beer limit!!!!! Aus knuckleheads...
If I'm wrong in any of the above, just burn me as necessary.... Knucklehead....
Servo control horns work perfect for keeping your wheels on and makes a little cup to put your glue in
I love seen this videos, never change this part of every build.
I built this model a few times. I used leftover drone motors and did a dual prop.
Need that aileron video!! Thanks!
Thanks! I will check it out.
Sure, bro! I've been watching quite a few of these vids since I just ordered a Duster kit so I figured I could suggest a vid to you that might help. I know how it is, you wanna get your plane set up and be out there flying rather than waiting for that other vid to post.
Please post aileron video
Luv this guy and channel. They have a lot of fun to share and a great group.
Love every single video guys!
Greedings from Germany!
Thank you guys so much for giving me and my dad a opportunity to have fun together he is gone a lot and this is a great opportunity for us thank you guys so much I really appreciate it
Too cool!
guys you are the coolest rc plane gang on the internet! Excellent plans and explanations although for european built plane you need to adjust the plans a little. 3/16" thick foamboard is not quite 5mm ( EU standard foam sheet ). But adding up a little here and there and bingo! Greetings from Romania ;)
Hi I'm also from Romania, which foamboard did you use / where did you get it?
Josh Bixler is so fast he can count to 10 in 3 seconds
TheEpicDuck thats easy lmao
@@sbr7018 0.97 seconds my record
I always laugh when he talks about estimated build time. Multiply by 3 or 4 for me.
StarzzDrak I just got a .89
2 secs for me
You guys are awesome. I’ve been looking for an inexpensive way to introduce kids to the hobby. I think this is the perfect plane to use. Thanks so much.
When folding and gluing your wing, you could use sand bags to give a more even distribution of pressure over the surface of the wing to ensure that the final glue joints are uniform and that there is no distortion in the surface of the wing.
I would love to see you build this plane as a scratch build using foam board from Walmart, Dollar Tree, or a store like it. Start from printing the plans to finish.
There are some articles in the articles section that describe how to print the plans, transfer to poster board and then to DTFB (Dollar Tree Foam Board.) Beware that some foam boards are much heavier and might make for a less than good flying experience. Adams brand DTFB is basically what Flitetest uses. The brown board is water resistant, but other than that, it is basically DTFB.
Im doing it right now, is a little more work but the blue prints are fine, just add some reference lines to guide yourself when you put them together.I 'm using foam from the Dollar tree and descent, just use very good knifes to cut perfect and use also a good metal long ruler to cut.I will post pics when is done.
At 5:30, before you glue on the firewall, check your engine. The new engines are now reversed of this video, so the firewall should be glued opposite way of how Josh is showing it. I had to drill a new hole in the opposite corner to pass the wires through, as the motor won't mount the same way anymore.
Very usefull! I recieved my electronics including my firewall for my cub today. This will help me out tomorow!
@@bernarddostie8892 i know its been a long time since you posted this, was just wandering did the cub you bought come with a transmitter. I dont see anywhere on the website that it says it does but it also doesnt list a transmitter under the needed to complete area.
@@lanemcmurtry4546 no the transmitter is not included. When I purchased the kit last Christmas there was an option to buy the power pack, a battery and the transmitter, but they changed their options on the online store. Personally I bought de Dx6e. I'm satisfied with it. It is one of the cheapest option! Good luck
My motor didnt fit in any of the holes
No adapter came in the kit, no instructions. And that was just step 2 or 3. Not really looking forward to find out what else is wrong.
I wish I read this about an hour ago...
A comment by sparehand65 mentions the ESC location on the power pack tray at the very beginning of the "Simple Cub Build" and the end of the video shows the XT battery connector coming out the front bottom of the plane which of course can't happen with THREE INCH LONG ESC Wiring! Either an extension battery wire is needed or a relocation of the ESC is required. I purchased two Simple Cubs last month for a grandson and I to build and fly together. I built mine first as the "Guinea Pig" so his build would be less problematic. The build videos are always well done and an excellent source of reassurance for first time builders and new flyers but I think this video needs "readdressed" since ESC and battery locations are a vital part of any assembly instructions. I'm curious why no one else has mentioned this? Are sparehand and myself the only two people who had problems with their build?
That's a perfect and clear demonstration I ever saw in u tube.
Thanks for sharing with us
Keep it up bro..👌
Great tutorial Josh!! I now know which kit I'm going to buy so I can get back into r/c flying. Looking forward to more informative videos from Flite Test! Thanks!!👍
truly excellent the way you help people build their first plane. me and my dad will be getting one of these simple cubs and it will be our first ever rc plane build. moving from the horizon hobby champ S+ to this. hopefully wont be too large of a jump and i will be able to control it! :)
Any recommendations on paint choices? I’d like to get the floats and have this on the water so I was hoping you knew the best paint for that. Awesome videos!
I would say white with a contrasting stripe (yellow, red or something) that usually works well for this type of plane
The power pod shown at the beginning of the video (13:42) is not the same as the one at the end of the video (1:21:21).
Following these instructions to the letter does not inform the viewer where to put the ESC, where to run the battery lead, and whether the battery or ESC should be mounted to the underside of the power pod.
El estabilizador de un Piet por allí atrás!! Estoy construyendo uno!🤩
Josh's voice is really soothing
I built it from the downloaded plans. Still waiting for some electronics to arrive from China, but I tested it as a chuck glider and it glides like a dream. Unnervingly large, by the way. Josh must be quite a big guy, it looks quite small in his hands.
good video......I also like the honest bad landings in the end not cut out lol
you are like the Bob Ross of airplane building i love it
Thank you so much for everything you guys do for the hobby. I am busy building my first plane! Thanks again for all the help! You guys rock
No no no. He is the mister Rogers of rc. Lol. Awesome videos
The land...no wait, the land...no wait, the landing was great!
I still want one of those tape dispensers!
Just get a black tape dispenser and some Flite Test stickers. :)
On Amazon
www.amazon.com/Officemate-Recycled-Heavy-Dispenser-96690/dp/B010CEH7BS/ref=sr_1_1?srs=7301146011&ie=UTF8&qid=1500079948&sr=8-1&keywords=2%22+Tape+Dispenser
Simply ingenious. I've been around model airplane flying since the control line days and this is the best yet for getting out and flying and having fun.
LOL. It was my desire to share line control planes with my son that got me back into this hobby. Now we both fly quads, helis, fixed wings and deltas. I blame Josh Bixler.
I'm confused... 13:30 The powerpack is setup with the ESC on the bottom and passing the wires inside for the battery. 1:21:40 The battery wire is coming out from the bottom of the powerpack and the battery is velcro'd to the bottom, not inside it.
Perfect job. It would be gratifying for Brazilian followers to see the construction of a Brazilian plane such as the (ipanema EMB 203) or the (super tucano). Hugs..🤙
Hi from Hong Kong, maybe you should include that you need tape in the "need to complete" list on the website? I know you included Misc. Building Supplies, but no offence, but that wasn't really helpful...And you definitely should put the servo/motor tester on the need to complete list too!
Great directions during my build. Thank you.
This is great for schools and small clubs. Great Job Guys!
also, I love all that you do with these planes
Josh updated the push rod installation and routing (shown on this video ~58:10), the new way is in the FT Simple Cub Livestream video as part of the *fuselage build* around the 1:22:00 mark: ua-cam.com/video/cvuU2hrXJxY/v-deo.html
Hey Josh Bixler, just got your Version 2 "B" power kit along with your Simple Cub kit. I have successfully flown the Dromida Sky Cruiser pusher prop 3 CH trainer, so I am ready to build after watching your build video several times. Looks like a great flier ! I am thinking of going ahead and at least adding the ailerons on this as I have the channels and servos already. I don't have to use them at first. I am thinking the classic Piper Cub yellow paint scheme, gotta watch your paint video, add the decals last ! Thanks again !
In the video a 5 gram servo is used and the 4 horn is cut for the shortest arm. The power B kit has 9 gram servos with different multi hole horns. Should the single arm horn be used and pick the inner hole?
Great plane. And it's very stable
Do you have to add trust angle to the firewall or is it built in?
Have a question for you guys, Can you mount the servos in the tail of the cub, just got my kit built it following this video, spot on Josh is easy to follow and goes through everything,
For your application of tape to the motor mount, can you use re-enforced tape, you know the tape that has the threads running lengthwise in the tape?
Did I miss the part where you show how to mount the battery? At the end you stick it the front during the balance process, and it sounds like it has Velcro on it. I’ve watched a few times and didn’t see anything with the Velcro. Edit: looking again, when you mount the ESC, the battery connector is pushed from the bottom up via the rear hole. At the end of the video you show the battery connector coming down from the front hole of the power pack. Very confusing!
Yay! Josh's face is back!
They make it look so simple
Hi Josh, love the planes and videos, you truly give the gift of flight, I had never flown an rc plane before, I built 12 of your planes and ordered power pack a , first I flew the mini speedster, then the tiny trainer, and the set is ready, I just received powe pack b for simple cub, I watched video several times and I'm confused, at beginning of video you show power pod with wire going in pod then out hole on bottom, esc is taped to bottom of pod then all wire go back in to the pod, I assumed the battery was to go in pod through hole under wing, but when you finish build the battery wire is shown coming out bottom of pod at first hole and you put battery under pod, I'm confused do I put esc inside pod, will it get enough air, please help, thanks
@Joshua Biela I ordered the flysky i6x from amazon for about 45 dollars, it's a great radio and it comes with a receiver and holds 20 planes
Thank you sparehand 65! (I thought I messed up on the Simple Cub build somewhere!) I notice one comment from another customer who mentioned the "Live Bixler Build" (on UA-cam) shows Josh installing the pushrods differently (then on this video), so I reviewed the video several times and your absolutely right! The Simple Cub Build shows the ESC wiring coming out the front of the plane which is impossible to do with the 3 inch ESC battery leads! I had originally taped my ESC to the bottom of the power pack tray like he did (early in the video). I noticed the ESC wires to the battery are only two or three inches long so assumed the battery had to go in the power pack tray! I flew it several times with this configuration but decided it was a pain in the !!! to remove the tray every time installing and removing batteries! This can't be right! I then realized there is plenty of room under the motor in the front for a battery there (which meant removing the ESC from the bottom of the tray. I had to reverse the ESC's position (inside the tray so the short ESC wires would be closer to the front and out the front tray's hole to reach the battery). This made much more sense.
Going back and reviewing the build video, he does show the ESC's XT connector in the front. Why hasn't anyone else mentioned this? I'm no newbie but if I were, this would have made no sense and I probably would have gotten very frustrated and stopped building planes from scratch? This led to another question, why are the battery leads on ESC's so short? My research said you can extend the wires a little without causing excess resistance in the wiring and not harming the ESC so I think Josh should make an "amended" video showing installing the ESC, BATTERY, and how to adjust the CG (center of gravity) by changing the battery location. The current video is excellent (as are all his Vids, but he should correct his errors, especially when it involves battery locations on his planes.
Yay, Josh's face, much better than centering on the FF Logo
You do great work, keep up the videos. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Great Vid on your simple cub kit. Can you add first person video to this plane?
Yes, you can; the speed build kit even comes with an optional hole for the camera
I'm still a beginner but this is the plane I think I will try next.
If you print your own plans the notching on the fuse stiffener is opposite than the one he is building plans have opposite notching but the fuse plans show them the same direction
Got to agree with you on the tape. Best thing ever is coloured packing tape from online suppliers. Cheap, strong and easy to use. With a bit of thought you can create pretty amazing colour schemes with very little weight gain compared to strength gained.
Has anybody done a test on tapes for adhesion,strength, longevity, flexibility and price? It is also possible to get personalised tape pretty inexpensively maybe flite test branded tape as a merch idea?.
Check out experimental airlines on UA-cam and also rcgroups, you'll find all your answers there.
Good luck :)
I was right in the middle of watching this when you took it down! Waahhh...
Thank you! From Brazil!!!
These look really nice, I can't wait to try it
At around 8:30, the fire wall is backwards for the b-pack
Hi, a question from a beginner builder here. I already have an airfoil built from before with no defects. I was wondering if I can build a fuselage and just attach MY wings to it. And I was also wondering if it would be an issue if my wings are completely straight unlike the slightly curved up wings as shown in this build.
Thanks in advance.
It your wings are straight (which means they have no dihedral), you need to cut out ailerons and have a 4 Channel (or add dihedral). Make sure the wingspan is at least 38" in. and chord is at least 6" in.
So, in the video you show that you put the battery connector inside the power pod but then you show an example of the battery mounted under the power ood. I suspect it needs to go in the power pod. Can you confirm. I would think that's what the velcro tap is for. One side battery in side INSIDE the power ood once you figure the CG.
But, I can see in going under the power pod as well to keep it cool. So, which is it? ;-)
So satisfying cavities
Hey FT, any chance that ya'll will come up with larger build kits for the DR1 Tri, Se5 Bi the size of the Duster?
So cool. I'm hooked ❤️
Poor Josh.. He's so lonely he has to make friends with the table.
Hi Just adding another challenge...A Piper L4 using the Brodie Landing System should be a great test of your flying skills, what do you think????.....O and talking about boats what about a carrier landing......happy landings
DUDE!! You guys are awesome!! I wanna get a dozen or so... or not... I think one or two would get me going well. So how do you paint and such?? Really great video!!
The foam glider club at my school and i built one with the other kids for a fur rc plane and it works Amazingly.
Hello, i need some help finding the right parts, can anyone link me the parts that you used.
Edit: Someone please help, I'm getting so confused.
From electronics you're going to need Tx and Rx (cheapest good option - flysky i6 +iA6), 30A ESC with BEC, 3s (11,1v) ~1000-1500mah LiPo, 4 x 9g Tower pro servo, lipo charger if you don't have one and motor - look for motor for drones, close to 1000KV that'll work with 10' prop, possibly a motor for any Phantom drone - plenty of those in web and prices are low.
So if you put the floats on can you add wheels to the floats
Does this power pod require the two sticks at the top two holes?
Does the power pod come with the FT simple cub
Doing a scratch build of my own right now, not a cub but a Yak 3 profile plane, need some electronics for it
Best build videos out there!
This was an awesome video I loved it, my father when I was a small child built RC planes all the time he also was a pilot for many different airplanes and helicopters. He passed away in 2019 he always wanted me to get into RC planes he liked them way more than my Traxxas Xmax lol and the drones I went to purchase this kit but it says the link does not exist is there a new link I like this model and would enjoy building it and learning how to fly thanks again for an awesome video I hope to hear back from you thanks