Restoring The ROGUE TRADER LANDSPEEDER From 1987!
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- Опубліковано 11 чер 2022
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Restoring minis is never easy! Or is it? Let's take a look at some of the most commonly available paint strippers on the market and get this Rogue Trader Land Speeder the glory it was destined for.
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B&Q Paint & varnish remover is similar to bio strip and a lot cheaper!
It's under their Diall brand if you go looking for it.
Ive got some citrus based paint and varnish remover i use to strip old furniture and restore it. I wonder how well that'd work for minis ?
Gonna have to give that a bash I think...
@@ciaranspalding3993 I've found it's good on metal and plastic. Don't use on resin. Overnight in a pot is usually how long I leave it, however you're good to go after a couple of hours
That's what I'm using right now and works a treat
I used SuperClean in an ultrasonic machine to great effect on over 400 "rescued" miniatures. It strips plastic and metal miniatures of anything I’ve come across (enamels, acrylics, oils, and even outdoor rust resistant spray paint). SuperClean is an automotive, degreaser and foaming cleaning solution. According to regulatory compliance filings, the product is biodegradable, but toxic and mildly corrosive. Do not ingest, and skin contact should be minimized or avoided entirely. Waste or unused solution, and the container, should be disposed of properly. A 1 gallon/4 liter jug costs about $20. Definitely try the "trade" products in your local market.
They were an absolute pain to put together. I remember using so much glue I stuck my hand together.
Retro Space Marines are looking great!
P.S Somewhere, Health and Safety Frog is having an aneurysm about you working with these chemicals and not wearing rubber gloves 😂
None of them are caustic thankfully! But yeah he’ll be shitting a car over it. Bad ventilation too!
yeah baby
For anyone new to stripping minis, be aware that with methylated spirits and acetone/isopropyl alcohol at least, breathing in the fumes can be pretty nasty.
So a facemask or respirator is recommended. Like the hand sanitiser, the last 2 years have probably provided most of us with some supply of respiratory PPE.
As to the speeder, all you are missing is the little metal bannerpole for the back. I've owned a few of these speeders in my time and those bannerpoles are the first things that go missing.
I love biostip 20, it takes paint of beautifully. Whenever I use it though I always make sure to have a small dish of Dettol beside me just for the mid 90s nostalgia smell.
Yeah man, it’s all about that amazing smell haha
+1 for the biostrip, fantastic stuff
@@MSPaints I swear by the biostrip, unless it’s a very large model (I stripped a couple of fire prisms) I just dip them in the main pot rather than decanting it.
I love biostrip, I have found it for just over £10, and it lasts absolutely ages, the last tub I had cleaned 4 copies of space crusade, one advanced space crusade, 3 heroquests, about 100 rtb01 beakies, and an Armorcast Reaver Titan, and a pair of Warhounds. Absolute bargain really, I just jab it on with a big stiff paintbrush, like stippling, leave it 20 mins, then scrub with a brush quickly, before just running water over it, and its pretty much always perfect.
Very cool man! Some good comparison od paint stripping products
for plastic, I've had good results with 'elbow grease' from b&m/home bargains. stripped some 17 year old guard back to bare plastic, but i did leave it sat in it for a week. for metal, acetone (nail varnish remover) has given me good results on an old ork warboss.
A word of note on Biostrip 2.0. It lifts like a power house and wont effect most polystyrene miniatures but it will eat the surface of some plastics so limited working time is advised. Also prolonged exposure will cause your skin to peal for 3 - 5 days afterwards so wear gloves.
P.s. it will also eat nitrite gloves so have some replacements handy and dont mix with water.
For what it's worth, here's my recent discovery: in Europe you can get Ajax Fete de Fleurs cleaning liquid. This is cheap and quickly strips off all paint down to the undercoat. Not strong enough for old metal models with enamel paint, but perfect for your own models that you wanna have another go at. Awesome video as always!
Thank you! I shall add that to my secret ingredients list
Does it work for plastic as well or does it ruin them?
@@MrMaltavius it works perfectly and doesn't affect the plastic at all 👍 takes all your paint off down to the undercoat if you've used a spray can, since this is stronger than the normal paint.
2 more UK products that I used almost daily are Elbow Grease from Home Bargains and Bartoline TX10 Paint & Varnish Stripper from the Range, both are cheap and can be reused on many minis. Only downside is they can affect Resin minis and make them soft if you leave them in too long. The Paint & Varnish Stripper is also quite good and helping to weaken any joints held together using
Plastic glues if left long enough.
For those worried about leaving models in meths, I've left plastic models in meths for weeks and weeks with no issues. Likewise metal has no issues being left in meths. Resin does, in my experience, soften a little if left for ages in meths. Not enough to loose/damage detail, but enough to make thin pieces go very bendy
I use Dettol for a specific reason and that's when a metal mini can't be cleaned (completely) with acetone. I think it works well on paints that are enamel based. It is horrible goopy like you said, so only as a last resort. A strong degreaser can remove the goop well. I have re-used it on many many mini's without it loosing it strength,, so I think you understated the reusability a little. The reason it can reused so often is because it doesn't dissolve the paint.
The smell of Meths takes me right back to my childhood; when my Dad used it on his live steam models.
The camera moves in this video were especially smooth and creamy.
absolutely loved the bit about Rileys and Duffies! Very accurate!
Well done man, it turned out great!
Thanks bud! Thought I’d see what it was like in your world! Enjoyed my visit!
I picked up a couple of squads of craigslist rescue cadians a couple years back- caked on paint. I tried all of the US usual suspects, LA's Totally Awesome, Simple Green, the purple stuff, soaked for weeks straight. Nothing worked.
I finally broke down and picked up an el cheapo ultrasonic cleaner. Half an hour in that with any of the aforementioned chemicals and plastic minis come out as gray as new.
Plus it does wonders keeping my airbrush clean.
Acetone for metals is my go to. The big bonus is that it dissolves super glue.
Not sure if it's been brought up already but for those not to afraid to buy chemicals directly one can always go for methoxy propanol. It may sound like a chemical nightmare but it's simply a paint solvent that is also sold as a paint stripper by ak interactive or revell with a mark up.
I find that when using Dettol after you take the mini out of the Solution add a drop or 2 of Washing up liquid to the mini then scrub, This stops some of the Glopping and you can rise off with warm water.
love the ultrawide format. keep it coming pls!
I really enjoy your videos, if for nothing else - it's so great to see someone applying their 'actual job' expertise to their UA-cam videos. The angles, lighting, camera movements and timing are all bloody fantastic, you could be making dinner for all I care and I'd watch it. (just a bonus that your hobby content is mint!)
2:10 wooo stargate
Absolutely love all the different types of shots along with the lightning music and editing I can't imagine the amount of effort and time to create such visually pleasing video keep up all the hard work
Thank you! Really enjoying shooting this one. Although shooting the painting parts with anamorphic was agonising haha
2:09 it might've been quick, but even I recognize Stargate when I see it. One of my favorite shows of all time! I believe thats the episode where they make people think they're humans or they're invisible and are inside the SGC I cant totally remember. But great easter egg man!
Amazing. Back then was an amazing time to be a geek. Discovering things like 40k purely by accident due to some circumstance, and having a whole new world open up before your eyes. Then suffer endlessly, being drip fed meagre tid bits as you strived to learn more, because there was no internet, and you lived in the arse end of the world where NOTHING was ever available, but you marvelled over what ever morsels you could find. In today’s times of plenty, things are just that much less interesting, and intrinsically have lesser value for it.
Love the end result mate, cracking stuff! That mass effect clip got me good!
Shepherd!
Another top video man and congratulations on breaking the 20 thousand subs!
I use a floor polish stripper mixed 50/50 with water soaking for about 1 hour. Only needs a light scrub after soaking and most building cleaners would have some kicking around! Can be a little rough on hands, so latex gloves are a good item to have, same goes for most chemicals used anyway!
Looking great. Those old school Ultra Smurphs are awesome. I hope one day we see an entire retro army on that shelf.
Slowly but surely we will!
Great video, super useful. Also I love the music in your videos, like a patchwork of nostalgia 😁👍🏻
Ooooh yeah, weaponised nostalgia haha.
BEAUTIFUL !
Great video going over the different options. Lost it at the '!' with the cat.
Mix the Dettol 50/50 with water, leave over night submersed in the dettol, next day old toothbrush and under the tap, when clean drop it in meths to rid yourself of the oily feeling. As Dettol does not affect plastics. It's brilliant removeing enamels. Acrylics use Meths and agin leave for a few hours. The only thing I have found that removes super glue is industrial stripper, ONLY USE ON WHITE METAL, if in doubt Dettol. After you've finished an empty jar a funnel and cofee filter papers, pour in and leave it to soak through, pour it back in the bottle.
Whenever i need to strip my minis, i tip them 20 bucks and hope for the best
I am honestly interested in trying out that 'Biostrip' myself, although i won't avoid cracking jokes about covering a mini in white gooey goo that could 100% look like something else.
Also, love the landspeeder, looks great painted freshly.
You get a 👍 for bringing back the memories of my old skool landspeeder. 👏 👏 👏
That Biostrip stuff looks very similar to the Wilko's "all purpose paint & varnish stripper", the one I got was a 500ml bottle and cost a couple of quid and it did a pretty good job of shifting paint off models after I tested it. I think they did a larger bucket of it at my local store, but it's been a while since I looked to be fair.
I'm still down in the dumps that they changed the recipe of Fairy Power Spray, that stuff was absolute magic at getting plastic and metal figures stripped clean. The paint literally would loosen and wrinkle right off in the jar in an hour or two, you'd be pulling practically clean models out and just brushing off the bits caught in the nooks.
I wonder what it was in the older recipe that did the work so well.
And as much as I think it's the ugly duckling in the Landspeeder family, you did an awesome job there mate.
Thanks for another great entertaining video, take care ;)
Seconded for Fairy Power Spray. That stuff was awesome, especially on plastics. These days I use Biostrip 20, but I'm going to be looking out for the cheaper alternatives.
@@alistairwilkinson4055 I might have to pick up some biostrip to compare it with the Wilko stuff I've got on hand. Got a Wickes and Screwfix just a way down the road, might have to see if/what alternatives they have on offer.
If you head to wilkos their paint stripper is ace, meant to be similar to biostrip. But a good chunk cheaper, I have done plastic and some resin in it and all was good for me.
And acetone for metal is a go to for me as it melts the super glue which is normally handy
I second the Wilko multi purpose paintstripper. It's ace 20 min dip and the paint just falls off.
Dot 4 Brake fluid, works a treat, and doesn't smell too much at all
I end up using Acetone or dimethyl ketone for metal mini's. It'll destroy anything non organic. So polymers are not safe. It's a great paint gun cleaner and a nice way to cool down in the summer if you're not near open flame.
Haha! Noted on the cool-down. Could always use more of thay
B&Qs own brand paint stripper is the same as Bio but at a third of the price, is safe on most minis, even resin in 5-10 min dips. Its also completely reusable.
Cellulose thinners is by far the quickest way to strip metal minis, takes seconds, not minutes
Hiya Dave, Love the tutorial - I love the straight speaking - Tell Em' the way it is! Best Wishes Johnny
Thanks Johnny!
Dunno how I've only just found this channel proper quality content and helpful advice 👍
Love you long time, loving the channel and videos :)
Nicely done, sir.
I can die feeling complete now that I've heard the phrase "beakie bukakke" in a UA-cam video!
Haha, you’re the first person to comment on that. Thought it was my best work right there
@@MSPaints was top notch mate. Really enjoy your videos 👌🏻
Great video, will definitely check some of these out. I’m a big fan of Nitro Mors paint stripper, but it’s aggressive AF. You have to pour it into a glass because it eats through plastic, but it strips old paint off white metal amazingly well.
i know its a branded product, but I can highly recommend Unto the breach's paint blitzer for UK based folk. its specifically for minis and works great on resin and plastic.
Elbow grease from the pound shop! It's fething brilliant.
Wait, it was a metal mini? Coulda just used some acetone man! In any case, the random chemicals you tried were fantastic to watch, so keep on keeping on.
Man love you video’s keep them coming. I mainly use Isopropyl alcohol and a sonic cleaner it’s shakes the paint right of when you use it a couple of times. En then a smalle scrapper en een toothbrush and they are almost as clean as when the where first made.
I love the 70mm aspect ratio, nice demonstration of skills
Ahh Tony you mad bastard! Great video again Dave. For my money stripping depends most on the primer used, I really dislike those ones that have a plastic adhesive added to them. That shit goes like rubber when I've tried to remove it.
Top work as ever.
Great video, entertaining and useful, cheers.
Love your mate, he's such a good shot! :) Another great video my friend
Ex policemanofficer so he tell me. I am suspicious.
@@MSPaints i would be also lols
I had that same miniature back in the day. I may still, need to check.
Iso and methalayted 50/50 works great for me.
Came here after watching you laughing on your video about GW and the algorithm.
so cool!
I love biostrip. Just throw the minis in and come back 2-3 hours later with an old toothbrush under some warm water and your all set 👍🏻
‘87 miniatures and paint striping products tested. Cool video Dave
The camera work is brilliant!!
Thank you! No idea why I chose to shoot anamorphic other than for self punishment haha
Good stuff, it's always lovely to see the 1980s GW stuff get some love. I think that speeder was a Perry bros sculpt wasn't it?
Brilliant! Cheered me up no end! Dettol is your friend, even though the little dudes end up smelling like the local a and e! Wear gloves the main problem with any chemical stuff is disposal.
The joy of Detol is that it that it's pretty harmless to plastic, even the pretty fragile stuff. I used to prefer Nitromorz for the metals but; a) I probably lowered my IQ by about 30 points by inhaling the fumes, b) you have to wear gloves, and C) they changed the recipe, so now it kinda sucks for stripping minis. Nowadays I just use Detol because it's so easy to get... +Strength Nail Polish remover if there's still tough paint left in the crevices (and the mini won't melt from it).
I assembled and painted the Guard version of that Land Speeder a few years ago... It's not too bad if you're into Pinning with chunky brass rod. It's attached to the base via a chipped Drill-bit because the weight was a bit much for a plastic rod. Got a SM one somewhere that I'll have to look out... some day.
I have used LA Totally Awesome to strip minis before. It works good on old metals and plastics. I don't know which would be better, straight from the bottle or with water, I've done both. The longer it sits the better, but I've found if I put them in to sit over night the paint comes off pretty well using just a toothbrush. Not sure how widely available it is, probably just North America.
This!
Greetings! Just stumbled onto your channel and I am now trying to remember if I sold my US release of Dark World during a childhood move, or if it is lost in some box somewhere. I shall have to revisit my plans to rebase and modify the movement trays for BattleMasters, and maybe figure out a hex board for it, while the nostalgia hits.
Ooooh battle masters! Me and my dad actually use those minis to play dragon rampant!
@@MSPaints adds to list of games to look up...
I was only able to really play it a few times as a kid. That 5'x5' (about 1.5m × 1.5m for the enlightened measurement users) battle mat is not easy to find room for. Mostly did mock battles with the trays and wondered how the hell they painted the figures like they did on the box photo samples.
I've just picked up a cheap sonic cleaner. Bit of metho and two 3 minute cycles (plus a little elbow grease inbetween) and my miniatures have been coming up brilliant for both plastics and metal.
Well, wood alcohol in the States. We don't use the term "spirits" as much.
Though I am going to buy it at O'Riley's.
For metal minis acetone is the king. Engine degreaser is my go to for plastics.
meths is my fave, got a combat patrol of orks the other week after finding my shite paint jobs i did as a teenager and a quick soak in meths and a scrub i re did the batch of bois and couldnt be happier... so i bought more
Probably the most powerful solution for cleaning both metal and plastic miniatures (warning: I do NOT know what it does to resin/UV resin) is brake fluid. I heard about it many years ago but only used it for the first time last year, and hell yes it works. It really works. It will not damage plastic or metal, but it is of course nasty, toxic, poisonous stuff and you have to do the whole gloves and eye protection thing, and also clean off any residue. Mostly I use either 99% ethanol or 99% IPA to strip miniatures - I get both for free (IPA and ethanol I mean, not miniatures).
I think it was Ninjon (I think) who mentioned some sort of IPA mix with windscreen cleaner.. I'd like to know what he is using because I've never tried it.
I've still got some Bio-Strip 20 in the garage. I don't like it much; it _does_ work, but it's very gloopy. Oh, and if you buy it in a 5 litre container like I did, check on the container once in a while because it will expand and potentially burst!
One thing I can say is that we have one hell of a paint selection, compared to the old standards we were all starting out with back in the late 80's.
Came here for the minis, left nostalgically happy from the Star Trek CCG cards 😅😁🇦🇺
Thank you for noticing! haha. I still buy sealed booster boxes from the states for the pleasure of opening them.
@@MSPaints agree wholeheartedly
Bartoline clean spirit is magic in a bottle. Think methylated spirits without the smaell (it has literally no smell) or flamability. Completely inert and safe to use and very effective. 2 litres of the stuff on Amazon will set you back like a fiver mate.
I had to stop this video at 5 minutes due to uncontrollable laughter. I'll watch the rest tomorrow.
Hahaha, I’m sorry. I’ll take it a little easier next time.
I love the smell of detol
Glad you gave Hector the day off, work-life balance is important. He's probably going to ask for SDS sheets or something when he gets back.
I typically use isopropyl alcohol when stripping metal minis and it always seems to work well for me.
I come for the painting tips, but I stay for the swears. 👍
Yeh I use isopropyl alcohol too, I've got about 3 gallons of the stuff making hand sanitisers for the family for the past 2 years.
I've used brake fluid on my metal and plastic models and it worked wonders
I’ve started using isopropyl alcohol after a colleague suggested it. All the stripping none of the mess.
7:43 from experience, thinning Isopropanol alcohol with water does not work well. My advice is to not scrub it with the iso still on it, but just to scrub it with water. After soaking for a while the iso has already done it's job of dissolving the acrylic medium and you just have to rub away the pigment.
FYI the Detol doesn't work on some plastic minis, I striped some legion plastics and the mini was fine however the bases got melted.
Might be cool to see more rogue trader minis added into the expanding army
i recommend Durostrip -15 minuts and it will take off the paint for any model and it will not t damage plastic. Also it smell like mint.
one - is price its a small container
Some washing up liquid on the toothbrush helps with Dettol mess.
I've used a bit of 70% Isopropyl Alcohol (got it for cheap at the grocery) to strip a resin model (as well as some cheapo toy models that stayed tacky forever after priming). The results were mixed. The thickest layers came off the resin model, but other layers remained stubbornly in place even after multiple days soaking. I might have needed to let it soak for a week, idk. It got cleaned up enough that I could prime it again and give it a new paint job. (Ironically, the new paint scheme was not too dissimilar to the old one. I was just adamant about painting it myself, and to my exact specifications.)
You are inspiring painting with disability’s is hard (iv got Eds and erbs palsy a nerve Damage in my painting hand from multiple serious burns) seeing you paint keeps me inspired to paint minis also how do you keep your hands stable that’s my biggest issue currently the nerve damage causes my hands to shake and twitch and spasm is there any tricks to prevent this or any tools to help like how archers have those archers gloves that keep their hands in a pose
Never thought to use methylated spirits to clean resin prints. So much easier to get hold than IPA. Give that a go on next print.
On old metal minis I use good ol' Jasco lacquer thinner, on plastic and resin figures I use Purple Power. I sometimes use Testors' airbrush thinner but since Testors is now a defunct company, that one isn't used so much anymore, gives ya a real headache too!
Nail polish remover/ acetone works Very well but only for metal miniatures
I bought a tub of Biostrip. Amazing stuff
Used all the common ones except the one that does the job within a couple seconds. ACETONE!!!😅
Wilko clean spirit, about a quid a bottle, and a ultrasonic cleaner, results in a very short time.
I'm sure you don't need yet another cleaner that you probably can't really get your hands on in this list but LA's Totally Awesome is incredible, safe, and dollar store cheap.
And not widely available in Europe.
@@kuhvacako Yeah, that's what I said.
Cracking video did you get any classic space marines at Vaptarnak??