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Everything You Need to Know to Replace Your BMW N54 Injectors!!!
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- Опубліковано 23 чер 2023
- Welcome to my channel, where I empower you to take control of your car's maintenance and repairs. In this comprehensive DIY video, I'll guide you through the process of testing, replacing, and coding fuel injectors in an N54 powered car, all within the comfort of your own garage.
The BMW N54 engine, renowned for its impressive performance, initially faced issues with fuel injector reliability. BMW engineers worked tirelessly to improve the injectors, making a staggering 12 revisions, or index updates, to address leaking fuel injectors. If you have anything below index 12 injectors, you may face issues with your engines performance.
Don't worry though, join me as I demonstrate the step-by-step process of removing, testing and replacing fuel injectors in a BMW N54 engine. Additionally, I'll highlight the significance of replacing the injector seals and decoupling elements, which are essential for maintaining a reliable and efficient fuel delivery system.
By the end of this video, you'll be equipped with the skills to tackle the entire job, including the coding. Not only will your engine benefit from reliable and efficient fuel delivery, but you'll also gain confidence in maintaining and upgrading your vehicle.
Subscribe to my channel for more in-depth automotive tutorials, troubleshooting guides, and helpful tips to keep your car running smoothly.
BMW 135, 335, 535
I actually didn’t realize how bad my fuel economy was getting till I replaced the fuel injectors. Thank you for the in depth video it has saved me tons on gas and maybe more failures in the future
FYI - do NOT wiggle back and forth when removing injectors. It will cause the head to oval out, when removing you need to pull straight up, only. Recommended to use a slide hammer.
Great and informative video once again
Very clear and helpful
Super helpful you got yourself a new subscriber
Great video & nice car!
Thanks for your video
NO ONE told me they were one time use. That explains why I lost power after pulling them off, THANK YOU
Very good!
You make it look easy
Nice video
Great video! I’m currently chasing a misfire. I need to check my injectors by doing this doing this.
Nice!
I figured out what the coding numbers 500-600 and 200-300 mean. Over the course of several years, hundreds of such kits have passed through our hands. And water hammer occurs mainly on the last cylinders, these are 4-8 or 6 if N54. And any other nozzle will overflow. Punch fuel enters through the intake manifold
Thanks so much for the 🖊 pen trick.
It’s that simple 😄👍
Awesome info, I have 60k original on my 09 e92 335i and it looks like previous owner had recall done in 2011, I can’t imagine they are index 12 however. Something I should do anyways or just drive the car as is until I have inevitable leaky injectors?
If they are not index 12s, you should replace them ASAP. As you can see in the video at 7:04, one of my injectors completely failed (out of nowhere) and was stuck open. I was extremely lucky that my engine was OK, but typically, a failed injector can hydrolock and blow your engine.
Thanks for the video, its looking like I'll be cleaning out my injectors after I clean the vanos first, fuel pressure problems.
Let me know if cleaning the VANOS solenoids makes a difference, I might clean mine too if it’s a noticeable improvement. But if you’re having fuel pressure issues, it might be better to look into your LPFP and HPFP. If you have MHD or a good OBD2 scan tool, you can check the live fuel pressure and locate where the pressure drop is occurring.
@@TheAutoSurgeon thanks, I was told the same thing since I already replaced both hpfp and lpfp along with both sensors lp hp, both 02 sensors a new ekp but I haven't installed it yet new plugs and packs new battery, gas cap starter, man I'm running out of options it's been giving me fuel high pressure plausibility, cold start fault pressure is to high [ bank 1]
Did you replace them with OEM parts? I know the Chinese HPFPs and sensors can cause issues. I know the feeling of continuously throwing parts at a car to hopefully fix the issue. Sometimes when you’re really stumped, it’s better to just take it to a reputable shop to get a professional diagnosis. It’ll save you tons of money on unnecessary repairs in the long run.
@@TheAutoSurgeon yeah I think you're right, now that you mentioned it the hpfs is pierburg but made in Thailand and I'm not sure about the hpfp because I took it to a local mechanic who over charged me for the parts and labor not to mention $460 for the diagnostic when that didn't work I dumped another $1,000 for the 02 sensors with smog and labor, same results 3 days later, that's when I decided an MHD adapter and pro tool and MHD apps would help me do it myself, man I came pretty close, took it for a test drive a few weeks back and it went back into limp mode right when I hit 60mph, back to the drawing board.
With MHD, run some logs at idle and see if your HPFP stays above or around 1900 PSI. If it drops to around 1000 PSI while the LPFP is at its regular 60-70PSI (I think that’s where it sits), it most likely will be the HPFP. Try to find a local parts breaker and get a used working HPFP with warranty. You can probably get one for under $200. These cars hate non-OEM parts, they cause significant issues. If you need more help, just shoot me an email (therealautosurgeon@gmail.com) and I can take a look at your logs.
Nice trick on testing these pesky injectors!
Awesome info, I have 60k original on my 09 e92 335i and it looks like previous owner had recall done in 2011, I can’t imagine they are index 12 however. Something I should do anyways or just drive the car as is until I have inevitable leaky injectors? Also, which foxwell scanner is this? I have a cheapo $90 Amazon portable OBD2 but this looks like a worthwhile investment.
It's a Foxwell NT710, its definitely worth the investment!
Do w205 c63s catless dp next!!
Thank you for the suggestion! Will look into it for you.
After you put the new injectors in for the first time, is it fine to code them before you start the car? Or should you let it idle and then code them after?
Yes! You can code them before you start the car. I just started it first because I was impatient and wanted to make sure there weren’t any leaks.
Subscribed and about to do this myself!!
At 6:20 when you are testing for a leaky injectory... is fuel coming out as a mist? That is how it should be, right? But not the "streams"/dripping of the leaky example?
When testing the injectors like in the video, there should be zero drips, the tip should be completely dry. If you see even a small drop of fuel come out, it means the injector is leaking since the injectors should be closed when disconnected from the wiring harness.
@@TheAutoSurgeon Ahhh okay, thank you again!
I have a question, I replaced my bad injector it was #1 , and now it keeps saying I have a miss fire in the same injector??? Can you help
Try swapping the spark plug and coil with cylinder 2, see if the misfire code follows. If it still misfires on #1, make sure you coded the injector. It’s also possible that the injector wasn’t seated all the way into the head or that it’s just another bad injector.
Can u send me the link on where to buy that tool u use to code the injector
It’s a Foxwell NT710, you can find it on Amazon!
Wow I didn’t realize how bad a bad fuel injector could be