When I'm bending PVC, one trick I use is to create a trough from aluminum foil to lay the PVC pipe in. This helps direct and retain heat from the heat gun around the pipe for a longer section. It lets you make longer bends, as long as you are careful not to kink the pipe
I fill the PVC with sand - and just use painters tape to block the ends. You DO have to be careful as the sand will stay hot longer ! (I used sand that is called "tube sand" that I had as weight in the back of my pick up truck for winter driving in New England). I never had kinks this way. Make sure sand and pvc cools before you let sand out. Practice on small pieces to perfect your technique & leave to cool overnight. The painters tape comes off easily & tends not to leave residue like duct tape does.
I am endlessly fascinated how with, a little paint and ingenuity you always get that illusion of other material (wood / steel / etc.). I find myself trying these techniques, and never ending up as it looks in my head. Let alone coming up with the idea in the first place. Thank you for always sharing your tips and techniques!
I really effective way to make "old iron" Is graphite powder mixed with shellac, stipple it on and then when it is dry you can sand the high points which polishes them making them look like metal.
Great looking scythe! This tutorial acts as a tutorial both for making rusted metal and for making a wood grain! I never thought of doing wood grain on PVC, usually I melt a pool noodle and that gives a similar wood texture to your PVC but the PVC is way stronger so it can be used in situation that might break a pool noodle. Great job! I need to practice my brushing technique to get this good at rusty metal and aged wood.
Excellent work! I teach stage prop building and final set decorating and have used many of your videos/techniques as a basis for the students to build off. You are the Goat when it comes to the decorating details and design. Sandwiched blades and wrapped (like this one here) work so incredibly well on stage. If it a static prop, I would do it exactly how you built here. What I do is if it is a action prop (used by actors) - I Dremel out a groove (between the sandwiched blades) and hot glue a cut off piece of fiberglass driveway marker rod through the foam and through the PVC handle. Actors are VERY hard on weapons and you will have a failure before production even begins if you do not have reinforcement. Again thank you !
Thank you! I had considered adding support, but in the interest of simplicity I skipped it. But I completely agree. People can be very hard on props and any extra support will be worth the effort.
I did something similar years ago for my son. But instead of a Dremel tool I used a wood rasp. You can scrape it up and down the PVC. Also, wood stain works well to finish it.
I like the crooked handle. The finished project looks amazing. If you want an idea for a future video... I keep holding onto my empty hard-plastic printer ink cartridges. What creative prop could I incorporate with that? It would be delightful to see how you'd use that material. Again lovely video. Incredible scythe.
WOW ! I appreciate you sharing your wealth of knowledge - it saves me the pain of many false starts and wasted resources. Thank you for these informative and entertaining videos.
Absolutely. The fact that their softening point is so high means you don’t have things coming apart during the summer months or if you’re transporting them in a hot car.
As always, awesome job! And you just saved me from having to buy a shovel for my upcoming digging skeleton! Thank you And for my birthday, I received your shirt as one of my gifts. I’ll proudly wear it
@@VanOaksProps Thanks for the reply! any chance you could make a motion activated pop-up with sound (ie a scream)? im fiddleling with making one using your pop-up video, which is the best online!
@@alarcon99 I don’t currently have any plans to, but I would look into PicoBoo controllers since they can act as a trigger for your prop and have audio on board.
Do you think you could decant some primer filler, mix in the baking soda and use it to create texture for a helmet? My concern is the layers of spraypaint thereafter could react negatively to the baking soda in the primer. I'll probably try the process via spoon method first, but I wanted to get your opinion on the technique. Thank you sir.
A scythe is not "what the grim reaper carries" it's first and foremost a tool used in agriculture! =D That being said, loved the tutorial but I personally would prefer a more bare bones, dumber approach to attaining similar results with as little hardware as possible because for many people this would be a one-off Halloween antic, and it makes little sense, for example, to buy several cans of paint for just a few strokes. Can the head gun be replaced with an everyday hairdryer? Can the EVA foam blade portion be finished with simple silver electrical tape or even aluminium foil tape?
There's definitely some assumptions that you may have access to the paints, tools, etc. that I have, but that said, the real take away should be the techniques used to accomplish different finishes that would lead you to a finished prop.
I'm thinking that this minor detail would most likely go unnoticed in a haunt. People aren't going to see details like this in low lighting and while being scared. I think the end results look great! Nice work as always, sir! 🤘💀
If you're scorching the PVC, you're too close to the heat source. And releasing a bunch of volatile fumes in the process. The pipe will soften just fine if you just hold it a few more inches out. I'm usually about a foot away (I just made a new PVC bow for my daughter recently).
Be careful to never heat PVC to the point it scorches or smokes. It releases hydrogen chloride which dissolves into atmospheric moisture to form hydrochloric acid vapor. Definitely not something you want to inhale or get in your eyes. If the PVC turns brown you're getting close. When I heat PVC I try to avoid having to brown it if at all possible. Evidently sifferent brands react to heat a bit differently.
When I'm bending PVC, one trick I use is to create a trough from aluminum foil to lay the PVC pipe in. This helps direct and retain heat from the heat gun around the pipe for a longer section. It lets you make longer bends, as long as you are careful not to kink the pipe
I’ll have to give that a try! Thanks
I fill the PVC with sand - and just use painters tape to block the ends. You DO have to be careful as the sand will stay hot longer !
(I used sand that is called "tube sand" that I had as weight in the back of my pick up truck for winter driving in New England).
I never had kinks this way. Make sure sand and pvc cools before you let sand out. Practice on small pieces to perfect your technique & leave to cool overnight. The painters tape comes off easily & tends not to leave residue like duct tape does.
Perfect! It’s hundred billion degrees here in Texas and I’m already looking forward to October! (Halloween)
I am endlessly fascinated how with, a little paint and ingenuity you always get that illusion of other material (wood / steel / etc.). I find myself trying these techniques, and never ending up as it looks in my head. Let alone coming up with the idea in the first place. Thank you for always sharing your tips and techniques!
Thank you very much!
It looks so good, especially in the sun-light. It is AWSOME! Thanks again for a great inspiration 🙂
You are so welcome!
I really effective way to make "old iron" Is graphite powder mixed with shellac, stipple it on and then when it is dry you can sand the high points which polishes them making them look like metal.
Yep! I have a video on that exact technique. The baking soda is a good substitute if you don’t have graphite or shellac.
Great looking scythe! This tutorial acts as a tutorial both for making rusted metal and for making a wood grain! I never thought of doing wood grain on PVC, usually I melt a pool noodle and that gives a similar wood texture to your PVC but the PVC is way stronger so it can be used in situation that might break a pool noodle. Great job! I need to practice my brushing technique to get this good at rusty metal and aged wood.
You can also stuff the PVC with sand that will ensure it keeps it's round shape will you heat bend it. Them empty it out and cap of those ends!
Excellent work! I teach stage prop building and final set decorating and have used many of your videos/techniques as a basis for the students to build off. You are the Goat when it comes to the decorating details and design. Sandwiched blades and wrapped (like this one here) work so incredibly well on stage. If it a static prop, I would do it exactly how you built here. What I do is if it is a action prop (used by actors) - I Dremel out a groove (between the sandwiched blades) and hot glue a cut off piece of fiberglass driveway marker rod through the foam and through the PVC handle. Actors are VERY hard on weapons and you will have a failure before production even begins if you do not have reinforcement. Again thank you !
Thank you! I had considered adding support, but in the interest of simplicity I skipped it. But I completely agree. People can be very hard on props and any extra support will be worth the effort.
@@VanOaksProps would love to see what your solution for support is.
I did something similar years ago for my son. But instead of a Dremel tool I used a wood rasp. You can scrape it up and down the PVC. Also, wood stain works well to finish it.
For sure. The only downside with wood stain is the dry time. But it does work extremely well!
It’s very real looking.
Great craftsmanship.
4:32 that’s a Fuller, very nice detail to the scythe! Always amazing job on the paint, details, rust, texture!
Good to know what it’s called! Thanks
That's some good looking rusty bolts
The straps and bolt heads really set this prop off. Excellent job!
Greenlee makes a heat blanket we use in the field to help heat pvc faster...
Your a prop master. Thank you for aharing another great build idea.
Very welcome
I like the crooked handle. The finished project looks amazing.
If you want an idea for a future video... I keep holding onto my empty hard-plastic printer ink cartridges. What creative prop could I incorporate with that? It would be delightful to see how you'd use that material.
Again lovely video. Incredible scythe.
Thanks so much!
WOW ! I appreciate you sharing your wealth of knowledge - it saves me the pain of many false starts and wasted resources. Thank you for these informative and entertaining videos.
You are so welcome!
Your scythe looks great. Thank you for sharing your techniques.
Thanks for watching!
Another fun build. Came out great. Keep them coming. 👍😎
Thanks, will do!
As a scythe user, nice work! 👍😁
Thank you!
Do you find that those cosplay glue sticks work better than regular glue sticks on foam and plastic?
Absolutely. The fact that their softening point is so high means you don’t have things coming apart during the summer months or if you’re transporting them in a hot car.
Looks insanely good 😊
Thank you for sharing another video with something I might be able to accomplish!! Looks great!!
Cosplay glue sticks? Genius. Do the work well?
They do!
Fantastic
This is so awesome! Thank you!
Glad you like it!
Excellent.
Thank you!
Looking good as always!
As always, awesome job! And you just saved me from having to buy a shovel for my upcoming digging skeleton! Thank you
And for my birthday, I received your shirt as one of my gifts. I’ll proudly wear it
Happy birthday!
Thank you, Sir! another great project.
My pleasure!
Mad props for your props! Happy to see the success with your channel. Stay scary!
I appreciate it!
Well done that’s one fantastic Halloween prop 💀🎃👏
Thank you!
Wow. That would make such a great prop for the 12’ skelly. Thanks!
I thought the same!
@@VanOaksProps Thanks for the reply! any chance you could make a motion activated pop-up with sound (ie a scream)? im fiddleling with making one using your pop-up video, which is the best online!
@@alarcon99 I don’t currently have any plans to, but I would look into PicoBoo controllers since they can act as a trigger for your prop and have audio on board.
@@VanOaksProps Subscribed!
You are amazing to watch and such an inspiration source for my crafting ideas!
Thanks so much 😊
Bummer I missed the live stream. Busy day at work. So many sick people.
Next time!
Nicely done!
Thanks!
Another amazing job!!
Thanks again!
Just found your awesome channel..
After Watching several videos I began expecting "This has been America's Top 40 countdown...I'm Casey Kasem."
🤣
can you make a video on making fake moss for haunts?
I'll see what I can do.
I bought the Lowe’s 12ft Scarecrow and the sling blade looks too fake. Thanks a lot for doing this one! I can give him a better version.
My pleasure!
Do you think you could decant some primer filler, mix in the baking soda and use it to create texture for a helmet? My concern is the layers of spraypaint thereafter could react negatively to the baking soda in the primer. I'll probably try the process via spoon method first, but I wanted to get your opinion on the technique. Thank you sir.
I’d use air dry spot putty for texturing a helmet.
@@VanOaksProps like bondo glazing putty?
@@603VIL exactly. And if you need thinner textures mix it in a little bit of acetone
Lol that came out great! Just found your page and subbed up.
Thanks for the sub!
could I use a hair drier to bend the pipe a bit?
Probably not. I don’t think a hairdryer gets hot enough.
Update, I actually was able to bend it with a hair drier 😂😂
Definitely takes a bit longer than the heat gun though..
@@ladygreenwithenvy good to know!! Thanks for sharing your results.
👏
A scythe is not "what the grim reaper carries" it's first and foremost a tool used in agriculture! =D That being said, loved the tutorial but I personally would prefer a more bare bones, dumber approach to attaining similar results with as little hardware as possible because for many people this would be a one-off Halloween antic, and it makes little sense, for example, to buy several cans of paint for just a few strokes. Can the head gun be replaced with an everyday hairdryer? Can the EVA foam blade portion be finished with simple silver electrical tape or even aluminium foil tape?
There's definitely some assumptions that you may have access to the paints, tools, etc. that I have, but that said, the real take away should be the techniques used to accomplish different finishes that would lead you to a finished prop.
One flaw. You didn’t finish the ends off, so it still looks like a pipe not a branch.
Good point. Thankfully it's a simple fix.
I'm thinking that this minor detail would most likely go unnoticed in a haunt. People aren't going to see details like this in low lighting and while being scared. I think the end results look great! Nice work as always, sir! 🤘💀
If you're scorching the PVC, you're too close to the heat source. And releasing a bunch of volatile fumes in the process. The pipe will soften just fine if you just hold it a few more inches out. I'm usually about a foot away (I just made a new PVC bow for my daughter recently).
Thanks for the tips!
🤩
Grain- Soldering iron. The bulges only add to the exaggeration..or glue gun for the opposite operation
Yep. All good options.
Be careful to never heat PVC to the point it scorches or smokes. It releases hydrogen chloride which dissolves into atmospheric moisture to form hydrochloric acid vapor. Definitely not something you want to inhale or get in your eyes. If the PVC turns brown you're getting close. When I heat PVC I try to avoid having to brown it if at all possible. Evidently sifferent brands react to heat a bit differently.