Matt, Thanks so much for another great video. Thank you so very much for taking the time to make these videos, they are packed with so much information and the way you explain each topic makes it so much easier to understand.
New climber here... My brief experience has shown me that it is wise to know a number of friction hitches because ropes and prusiks come in so many sizes and materials. You may have to try several to figure out which rope/prusik combination works best for you.
Absolutely. Most of them can be adjusted with the number of wraps and the difference between friction hitches is more about how much they grip. It is nice to have some go-to knots that you know work.
Just used 3 prussics for tree climbing. One of my loops was very thin cord. I noticed that the thin loop was much harder to release after weighting. Is there a minimum thickness you recommend?
Good question. The recommendation is to use a prussik made from cordage that's about 3mm smaller than the line you are wrapping around. So, a 7mm or 8mm are most common for 10-11mm ropes which are common.
I tryed going up the mast of our sailboat using the Purisk but I had a hard time releasing and sliding the "knots" up and down. I think a Purisk on top and a auto on the bottom would be a good combo, easyer to use but still have the Purisk at the top to catch you if the auto gets released?
Good question. The sewn webbing sling is rated to about 4,900 pounds. The small amount of rope stretch does relieve some force as well. That webbing is meant to take the weight of a falling climber while maintaining a safety margin.
Hello Joseph. I would recommend using the prussik as our holds strong and slips less. You'll want max grip as you'll be attaching to a cable with little flex rather than a flexy rope. I have not done this yet and know that the park service discourages it, however it is on my list. I would bring an extra loop or two in case the first shows wear or if you need to get around an obstacle so you can remain attached. I would recommend going with someone experienced and know your times to turn back. Have fun and stay safe!
The prusik loops are tied together with a double fisherman's knot. I plan to make a video showing how to make these loops and get them tight, but you will want to pull the knot tight with pulleys before using it.
This depends on the diameter of your rope, how aggressively you want it to grab, and how much weight you need it to hold. The smaller the cordage, the harder it will grip. In rescue a standard is a 7mm prusik loop for a 11mm rope or an 8 or 9mm loop for a 12mm rope. If you figure that your prusik is 60-80% of your rope size, you will be withing the correct range.
They are not intended to be tied around webbing/straps, although they might hold depending what you're doing with it. I just wouldn't use it for any life safety lines. Webbing can be used to tie around rope as it grabs pretty well, but it does wear much quicker than cordage so I only use it in a pinch. What are you trying to do?
A great demonstration with the Jack it’s much better to see that kind of demonstration, and its reassuring to see they all work so well
Matt, Thanks so much for another great video. Thank you so very much for taking the time to make these videos, they are packed with so much information and the way you explain each topic makes it so much easier to understand.
My pleasure! Glad you like them!
Super useful video. Thanks homey.
You are welcome! Thanks for watching/commenting. Do you climb or rappel?
New climber here... My brief experience has shown me that it is wise to know a number of friction hitches because ropes and prusiks come in so many sizes and materials. You may have to try several to figure out which rope/prusik combination works best for you.
Absolutely. Most of them can be adjusted with the number of wraps and the difference between friction hitches is more about how much they grip. It is nice to have some go-to knots that you know work.
Cool video!
Thank you. I hope that helps!
Just used 3 prussics for tree climbing. One of my loops was very thin cord. I noticed that the thin loop was much harder to release after weighting. Is there a minimum thickness you recommend?
Good question. The recommendation is to use a prussik made from cordage that's about 3mm smaller than the line you are wrapping around. So, a 7mm or 8mm are most common for 10-11mm ropes which are common.
I tryed going up the mast of our sailboat using the Purisk but I had a hard time releasing and sliding the "knots" up and down. I think a Purisk on top and a auto on the bottom would be a good combo, easyer to use but still have the Purisk at the top to catch you if the auto gets released?
That sounds like a good combination to me!
How comes the webbing didn't break? Did the rope stretch take out the force
Good question. The sewn webbing sling is rated to about 4,900 pounds. The small amount of rope stretch does relieve some force as well. That webbing is meant to take the weight of a falling climber while maintaining a safety margin.
Thanks!
You're certainly welcome. I hope it helped.
i like your video. keep it up man
Thank you! I have plans for many more videos, including several more with or about ropes and knots. Thanks for watching!
Isn't the klemmheist used more (funktional) for a sling than rope?
I've seen it used most with ropes, but could have multiple uses. It's easier to slide and easier to untie than a prusik.
what knot would you use on the half dome cables when they are down ?
Hello Joseph. I would recommend using the prussik as our holds strong and slips less. You'll want max grip as you'll be attaching to a cable with little flex rather than a flexy rope. I have not done this yet and know that the park service discourages it, however it is on my list. I would bring an extra loop or two in case the first shows wear or if you need to get around an obstacle so you can remain attached. I would recommend going with someone experienced and know your times to turn back. Have fun and stay safe!
@@AdventuresInReach thanks
What knot do you use and recommend to tie the two ends of the rope together for these two climbing knots?
The prusik loops are tied together with a double fisherman's knot. I plan to make a video showing how to make these loops and get them tight, but you will want to pull the knot tight with pulleys before using it.
@@AdventuresInReach Thank you kindly👍. Cheers 🍻 🍻
What diameter is the best for the prusik or klemheist rope is best?
This depends on the diameter of your rope, how aggressively you want it to grab, and how much weight you need it to hold. The smaller the cordage, the harder it will grip. In rescue a standard is a 7mm prusik loop for a 11mm rope or an 8 or 9mm loop for a 12mm rope. If you figure that your prusik is 60-80% of your rope size, you will be withing the correct range.
Do these knots work on a flat strap?
They are not intended to be tied around webbing/straps, although they might hold depending what you're doing with it. I just wouldn't use it for any life safety lines. Webbing can be used to tie around rope as it grabs pretty well, but it does wear much quicker than cordage so I only use it in a pinch. What are you trying to do?