I bought a 2006 TC in 11/2005. Dogged it every step of the 120,000 miles of its life. Got a good ole clanking when the engine starts up. I am most certain it has spun a rod bearing. There is a kit on ebay that has an "upgraded piston" set that has more holes machined in the ring land. It is supposed to have the piston pin changed to accommodate for any head and block resurfacing. Did you use a kit similar to that? I figure my worst cost will be the crankshaft, but they have those new on ebay for $250, so I'm not sweating that. Have you ever taken the balance shafts out of a 2.4L? I hear it will make more power but run rougher. Question is how rough is rough. Also have you heard of any pinpointed reason that the rod bearings might be getting hit hard in the TC, other than low oil? I know for a fact mine has never ran low, and until a year ago had only 3000 mile or less oil changes. But I am hard on her with the 5sp. manual. 17 years of service from her for the $15000 out the door I paid for it; I cannot complain one bit for having to spend $1000 on her this late in the game. Namely the only thing I have ever put on it mechanically was the rear calipers and pads all the way around twice. (Ran 225/30/20's for years) Caliper on the rear got stuck. I am preparing to open the engine up this week just to peek at the crank. If there is any machining to be done to the crank, I'm just going with a new crank; even for 1 rod journal. It has such a bad clack on the first 3 revolutions that the bearing must have left the building. Already have a clutch on deck, with release bearing. Do you find it necessary to replace the pressure plate with a standard replacement clutch, or just because you went with a higher performance clutch? I went with what the website said was a stage 3 street clutch, so I don't suppose that it is super high performance or anything. But the stock clutch that is in it now has always slipped some when the temperature is 30 degrees or below. Thanks for your time man. I have rebuilt several other engines in the past, just curious about your feedback of parts you have used before in your rebuilds of the 2.4L. Also have you ever seen a 2.4L with the Brian Crower 2.6L stroker kit? It is hard to want to pay for a $3800 crank kit and have the website hoodoo me. There was a Scion specialty performance shop in Kentucky back in 2006-2010 or so, and they sold all kinds of awesome parts, even machined them in house. Then it came out they had started scamming peoples credit cards for over a year and packed up shop and left out; owing some people $50,000 of parts. Heck they really sold Stage 1, 2 and stage 3 heads, multiple grinds of cams as well as upgraded 11:1 or 8:1 pistons, with multiple selection of rod lengths. It's too bad people find it more profitable to cheat people than to sell an awesome product.
Man I missed this comment my bad. I am sure you have probably built up your engine by now. I have seen the BC stroker kit but truth be told I think that is wasteful. Yes you will make more power but building the engine with new rods pistons and bearings as well as arp head bolts will really be the difference because now you can toss a turbo on it and the amount of power is going to be amazing. Balance shaft removal is fine I have do it and yes it spins up faster allowing me to spool up the turbo faster. There is lil vibration at idle but I also have solid motor mounts but all in all not horrible. The company you are referring to I believe is Dezod and yes they did end up closing doors and folks had hard time getting their cash back. The owner had medical issues I believe heart attack and stroke leaving him bed rest his brother tried to run the business for him until he got better but didn’t do good and the company ended up closing. At least that’s what I heard. Again sorry for the late reply but thanks for reaching out. I like to see your build if you still have it.
Yes much faster to pull the entire engine and transmission all together then fight with what little space you have to wiggle out the transmission. For me it only takes me 3.5 hours to pull both. I pull the axles disconnect the spipe and remove the rear motor mount bolt. Then I sit back down on all 4 wheels and work in the engine bay where I just unplug the wiring harness from both the ecu and fuse box lay it on the top of the engine. Remove the battery next. Then I disconnect the fuel line set it aside. Drain the radiator pull it up and out. Basically by. Now it’s time to attach the engine hoist and remove remaining engine mount bolts. Now I start to lift it up and can gain access to back of the engine where I remove the bolts holding the intake manifold on and get it out of the way, also I have room now to disconnect the power steering pump line leaving the pump still attached. Much easier and faster to leave it attached and just re bleed it once back in again. Now keep lifting it up and backing it out of the engine bay and onto my garage. I have done it both ways but I find it to be faster this way since I don’t own a lift. Working on my back in a driveway doesn’t leave a lot of room to get out the transmission. I will take 3.5 hours and a few extra steps to pull both plus gives me chance to look over the engine if need be. Thanks for your comment
I love it took about a week to get use to it but it grabs and goes now no slipping. It’s good to note that I just resurfaced the oem flywheel no need to buy another if there isn’t any issues.
I bought a 2006 TC in 11/2005. Dogged it every step of the 120,000 miles of its life. Got a good ole clanking when the engine starts up. I am most certain it has spun a rod bearing.
There is a kit on ebay that has an "upgraded piston" set that has more holes machined in the ring land. It is supposed to have the piston pin changed to accommodate for any head and block resurfacing.
Did you use a kit similar to that? I figure my worst cost will be the crankshaft, but they have those new on ebay for $250, so I'm not sweating that.
Have you ever taken the balance shafts out of a 2.4L? I hear it will make more power but run rougher. Question is how rough is rough.
Also have you heard of any pinpointed reason that the rod bearings might be getting hit hard in the TC, other than low oil? I know for a fact mine has never ran low, and until a year ago had only 3000 mile or less oil changes. But I am hard on her with the 5sp. manual.
17 years of service from her for the $15000 out the door I paid for it; I cannot complain one bit for having to spend $1000 on her this late in the game. Namely the only thing I have ever put on it mechanically was the rear calipers and pads all the way around twice. (Ran 225/30/20's for years) Caliper on the rear got stuck.
I am preparing to open the engine up this week just to peek at the crank. If there is any machining to be done to the crank, I'm just going with a new crank; even for 1 rod journal. It has such a bad clack on the first 3 revolutions that the bearing must have left the building.
Already have a clutch on deck, with release bearing. Do you find it necessary to replace the pressure plate with a standard replacement clutch, or just because you went with a higher performance clutch? I went with what the website said was a stage 3 street clutch, so I don't suppose that it is super high performance or anything. But the stock clutch that is in it now has always slipped some when the temperature is 30 degrees or below.
Thanks for your time man. I have rebuilt several other engines in the past, just curious about your feedback of parts you have used before in your rebuilds of the 2.4L.
Also have you ever seen a 2.4L with the Brian Crower 2.6L stroker kit? It is hard to want to pay for a $3800 crank kit and have the website hoodoo me. There was a Scion specialty performance shop in Kentucky back in 2006-2010 or so, and they sold all kinds of awesome parts, even machined them in house. Then it came out they had started scamming peoples credit cards for over a year and packed up shop and left out; owing some people $50,000 of parts. Heck they really sold Stage 1, 2 and stage 3 heads, multiple grinds of cams as well as upgraded 11:1 or 8:1 pistons, with multiple selection of rod lengths. It's too bad people find it more profitable to cheat people than to sell an awesome product.
Man I missed this comment my bad. I am sure you have probably built up your engine by now. I have seen the BC stroker kit but truth be told I think that is wasteful. Yes you will make more power but building the engine with new rods pistons and bearings as well as arp head bolts will really be the difference because now you can toss a turbo on it and the amount of power is going to be amazing.
Balance shaft removal is fine I have do it and yes it spins up faster allowing me to spool up the turbo faster. There is lil vibration at idle but I also have solid motor mounts but all in all not horrible.
The company you are referring to I believe is Dezod and yes they did end up closing doors and folks had hard time getting their cash back. The owner had medical issues I believe heart attack and stroke leaving him bed rest his brother tried to run the business for him until he got better but didn’t do good and the company ended up closing. At least that’s what I heard.
Again sorry for the late reply but thanks for reaching out. I like to see your build if you still have it.
What transmission? EB60 6 speed? Any modifications, or problems with the original?
Hi my car is an 2006 Scion TC with the stock E350 manual transmission. It’s a 5 speed.
@@funkyphil1974 OK, thanks Phil.
does that has a pilot bearing? i have an 08 tc and i dont know if need it.
No Pilot bearing on the first Gen.
@@funkyphil1974 thks man been struggling with that manual swap.
@@Heavonix no worries if I can help just ask. I know these engines pretty well and rebuilt them more than a few times. Plus boosted mine.
@@funkyphil1974 will do thks man.
sorry to bother you again man, can i use the same axles even if i swap the transmision to a manual?
You took out the entire engine ? Sounds like a long project
Yes much faster to pull the entire engine and transmission all together then fight with what little space you have to wiggle out the transmission.
For me it only takes me 3.5 hours to pull both. I pull the axles disconnect the spipe and remove the rear motor mount bolt. Then I sit back down on all 4 wheels and work in the engine bay where I just unplug the wiring harness from both the ecu and fuse box lay it on the top of the engine. Remove the battery next. Then I disconnect the fuel line set it aside. Drain the radiator pull it up and out.
Basically by. Now it’s time to attach the engine hoist and remove remaining engine mount bolts.
Now I start to lift it up and can gain access to back of the engine where I remove the bolts holding the intake manifold on and get it out of the way, also I have room now to disconnect the power steering pump line leaving the pump still attached. Much easier and faster to leave it attached and just re bleed it once back in again.
Now keep lifting it up and backing it out of the engine bay and onto my garage.
I have done it both ways but I find it to be faster this way since I don’t own a lift. Working on my back in a driveway doesn’t leave a lot of room to get out the transmission. I will take 3.5 hours and a few extra steps to pull both plus gives me chance to look over the engine if need be.
Thanks for your comment
How ya like your stage 4
I love it took about a week to get use to it but it grabs and goes now no slipping. It’s good to note that I just resurfaced the oem flywheel no need to buy another if there isn’t any issues.