Seeing some comments of people saying this job isn’t a DIY so just wanted to say it most certainly is a DIY. If you’re doing this from home, the most challenging thing to do will be to safely remove the coolant if you don’t have a lift. Audi erWin has the documentation that Audi techs use that can be purchased for around $30. Don’t be discouraged cause of all the things this gentleman removed. All you need are the right tools and confidence. Good luck.
Thanks for making this video. It helped me do the job on my 2018 Q5. The job wasn't too bad and is definitely a DIY with the right tools. Here are a few tips for those looking to DIY: - 95% of the job can be done with a 1/4" drive ratchet. You need 1/4" drive extensions and a T30 socket to get to the lower 5 intake manifold bolts through the access ports in the manifold. This set me back as I primarily have 3/8" drive extensions and sockets and had to order tools. 3/8" drive extensions does not fit through the access ports. - Use a good set of picks to gently release the plug locks and release the connector plugs. Be careful not to break the locking mechanisms. - Have a good magnet to retrieve the manifold bolts as you take them out or you'll risk dropping bolts and trying to find them in the bay. - One of the 2 sensors that you unplug by the firewall is a knock sensor. This is the sensor that he mentioned in the video not to forget or you risk breaking it when trying to pull out the intake manifold. The harness of the sensor is clipped into the black plastic bracket attached to the underside of the manifold. It is a real PITA to release the harness from the bracket with the manifold installed. What i did was unbolt the manifold and gently rotate it to access the 2 T30 bolts to unmount the bracket and release the manifold. - i temporarily removed the oil filter housing to get to a sensor that needs to be unplugged and also gave me some additional room to work the intake manifold off and on. - The pulley on the water pump drive is LEFT HAND thread! It doesn't take much to loosen the bolt but it was hard for me to get a good grip on the fastener. A 12mm ratcheting wrench did the trick. At this point you might be contemplating just leaving the original belt on. Just change it, you've gone this far and it would suck to have the belt go later on. My belt looked brand new but I swapped it out for peace of mind. It also helps me sleep at night lol. - Some water pump kits do not come with the oil cooler union. Don't forget to replace it. It comes with both o rings and is less than $10. I had to order mine from the dealer. - When installing the new pump/housing, don't worry about getting the belt on the pulley yet. Gently install the housing and focus on getting it seated in the oil cooler side and lined up with the dowels on the block. Be careful not to bind/damage the o ring on the union on install. If should just pop into place. You'll hear it and feel it seat. - As he mentioned in the video, just walk the belt on the pulley by turning the motor clockwise. Take your time and use your fingers to guide it on the pulley. This took me a while but be patient. Helps having a second set of hands on this step. - reinstalling the intake manifold. I used a magnet and a set of needle nose pliers to guide the lower intake manifold bolts on the head. Be careful not to drop them or you risk having to take off the manifold to find the bolt you just dropped. - there are a handful of sensors and 2 vacuum lines that you need to unplug for this job. It helps to write everything down that you unplugged so you won't forget to connect them. Overall, it wasn't a difficult job. Be patient and work slowly. Some people claim they can do this without taking off the intake manifold. For someone like me who is seeing the waterpump for the first time that would have been extremely difficult. I can probably do it now that I've seen where all the bolts are and how to access it. In my opinion, take the extra 20 minutes to take off the manifold and make your life easier. My 2018 Q5 tstat housing/water pump failed at 44k miles. I was getting coolant codes and it was intermittent. No leaks. The housing failed by allowing coolant into the electronics side of the housing and wetting the board which caused moisture in the connector. Happy wrenching! Thanks ECS!
I want to ask you about the water pump union, did you put the original one that comes with this code “06L121131”, coz lot of people are making complaints that was leaking after they put this cooler union, other people used Febi “06L121131”, what did you used? Can you give me the cod of the part please
@@severinalexandru8454 I bought it from the dealer. 06L 121 131. People likely had leaks because they didn't get the union seated correctly and may have damaged the o ring on install.
@@severinalexandru8454I got mine directly from dealer with that part number. They likely didn't get the union seated properly in the oil cooler or damaged the o ring on install. It's likely the same union. Febi likely makes it for VW.
Man, I wish you made this video earlier. Before, I had to use another guys video that talked about what the pump does but he didn't show most of the removal or installation of the pump at all. So I had to figure it out pausing the video part by part to see what to change. Already changed my water pump and thermostat, but good to see a video for it. Hopefully it'll help some ppl change it.
broke the breather line that goes to the radiator….this job is hard….to be continued tomorrow. having a hard time getting the manifold completely off. not sure what it’s caught on. also, the torx screw for the plastic cover, one is near the transmission and i have no ideas how you got any tool there to undo that screw. 😭
My 2018 Q5 with 39k miles had its pump go out. Replaced under CPO warranty (along with radiator and engine mounts). Now watching this as it seems these pumps only last 40-60k miles..
makes sense I just turned 80k on my a4 and I'm starting smell that sweet smell of money, I mean antifreeze when my wife pulls her car in.....smell of money I'm referring about the dealership talking my money lol
Did this to my A4 around 10k miles ago when it hit 70k miles. As per the dealership there is a recall for the water pump but they will ONLY replace the water pump and not the thermostat. Didn’t make sense to me as they are one unit and the thermostat would most likely fail soon after water pump. That why I just didn’t myself. Car was no longer under warranty. Not a hard job. Most difficult was just putting the belt as this is a belt driven pump. Removing the intake manifold is not necessary either 😉.
@machko1 lol intercooler ??? No. I mean throttle body. There’s two screws that are kinda hard to get on top on the water pump right under the throttle body. I removed throttle body, Intake and charge pipe for better clearance and room to work.
thanks for posting that I was thinking it would be a grand... I may be in for this my self....Part is 500 + So 1 grand from the dealer is worth it to me this video has me shitting my pants to try an attempt this.
If anyone needs then new water pump replacement, made of metal, the part number is K11235, "K11235 GEBA WATER PUMP-GOLF VII WITH BELT & EXPENSION SCREW, Price: 223.14$, Weight: 0.35kg"
@VictorCiccarone not to mention the flops in the intake you got to make sure they're closed with a vacuum pump if you put them in and they're open you would never get rid of that check engine light
So why do this repair when Audi is offering a warranty extension on all B9 2.0 Water pump leaks and thermostat failures. Just call the dealer and confirm you warranty extension by providing your vin.
@@austintrashboat you have plenty of room to do it. Just kinda sucks having to bend over in an awkward position. The manifold support bar and throttle body I did take off to help create extra room. The manifold itself isn’t hard to remove but really is no point… also a ton of these Audi cars come with like an 8 yr 80k mileage extended warranty now, fyi.
Wtf VW and audi😂 What a joke omg, this pathetic water pump and thermostat is well known easily wear out and would suddenly fail for not reason since VW introducees ea888 gen2. It has been over 15 years and they can't figure out to design this thing with better quality lol. I am just so surprised this part is still installed on b9 2.0t with no progression but with the harder step of installation😂😂😂 omg cheers for audi ea888. I personally diy replaced this part on my q5 2014 gen3 2.0t for three times in one year. I love audi😂😂😂😂 Can't believe it still happening on the newer generation. So confused😂
Whos got the time to tear your car apart to do this? its prob worth me taking the damn car in and paying a mechanic with the right tools to do it right. By the time I buy the parts and tools and take it all apart and screw something else up I may as well buy a new car
Why the fuck Audi? Why isnt it a belt driven accessory on the front of the engine like every other 4cyl engine ever made. Why? 😮 Audi designed the EA113 1.8T, which was amazeballs.. Why is the EA888 2.0T such a shitter? 😢
Seeing some comments of people saying this job isn’t a DIY so just wanted to say it most certainly is a DIY. If you’re doing this from home, the most challenging thing to do will be to safely remove the coolant if you don’t have a lift.
Audi erWin has the documentation that Audi techs use that can be purchased for around $30. Don’t be discouraged cause of all the things this gentleman removed. All you need are the right tools and confidence. Good luck.
Thanks for making this video. It helped me do the job on my 2018 Q5. The job wasn't too bad and is definitely a DIY with the right tools. Here are a few tips for those looking to DIY:
- 95% of the job can be done with a 1/4" drive ratchet. You need 1/4" drive extensions and a T30 socket to get to the lower 5 intake manifold bolts through the access ports in the manifold. This set me back as I primarily have 3/8" drive extensions and sockets and had to order tools. 3/8" drive extensions does not fit through the access ports.
- Use a good set of picks to gently release the plug locks and release the connector plugs. Be careful not to break the locking mechanisms.
- Have a good magnet to retrieve the manifold bolts as you take them out or you'll risk dropping bolts and trying to find them in the bay.
- One of the 2 sensors that you unplug by the firewall is a knock sensor. This is the sensor that he mentioned in the video not to forget or you risk breaking it when trying to pull out the intake manifold. The harness of the sensor is clipped into the black plastic bracket attached to the underside of the manifold. It is a real PITA to release the harness from the bracket with the manifold installed. What i did was unbolt the manifold and gently rotate it to access the 2 T30 bolts to unmount the bracket and release the manifold.
- i temporarily removed the oil filter housing to get to a sensor that needs to be unplugged and also gave me some additional room to work the intake manifold off and on.
- The pulley on the water pump drive is LEFT HAND thread! It doesn't take much to loosen the bolt but it was hard for me to get a good grip on the fastener. A 12mm ratcheting wrench did the trick. At this point you might be contemplating just leaving the original belt on. Just change it, you've gone this far and it would suck to have the belt go later on. My belt looked brand new but I swapped it out for peace of mind. It also helps me sleep at night lol.
- Some water pump kits do not come with the oil cooler union. Don't forget to replace it. It comes with both o rings and is less than $10. I had to order mine from the dealer.
- When installing the new pump/housing, don't worry about getting the belt on the pulley yet. Gently install the housing and focus on getting it seated in the oil cooler side and lined up with the dowels on the block. Be careful not to bind/damage the o ring on the union on install. If should just pop into place. You'll hear it and feel it seat.
- As he mentioned in the video, just walk the belt on the pulley by turning the motor clockwise. Take your time and use your fingers to guide it on the pulley. This took me a while but be patient. Helps having a second set of hands on this step.
- reinstalling the intake manifold. I used a magnet and a set of needle nose pliers to guide the lower intake manifold bolts on the head. Be careful not to drop them or you risk having to take off the manifold to find the bolt you just dropped.
- there are a handful of sensors and 2 vacuum lines that you need to unplug for this job. It helps to write everything down that you unplugged so you won't forget to connect them.
Overall, it wasn't a difficult job. Be patient and work slowly. Some people claim they can do this without taking off the intake manifold. For someone like me who is seeing the waterpump for the first time that would have been extremely difficult. I can probably do it now that I've seen where all the bolts are and how to access it. In my opinion, take the extra 20 minutes to take off the manifold and make your life easier.
My 2018 Q5 tstat housing/water pump failed at 44k miles. I was getting coolant codes and it was intermittent. No leaks. The housing failed by allowing coolant into the electronics side of the housing and wetting the board which caused moisture in the connector.
Happy wrenching! Thanks ECS!
I want to ask you about the water pump union, did you put the original one that comes with this code “06L121131”, coz lot of people are making complaints that was leaking after they put this cooler union, other people used Febi “06L121131”, what did you used? Can you give me the cod of the part please
@@severinalexandru8454 I bought it from the dealer. 06L 121 131. People likely had leaks because they didn't get the union seated correctly and may have damaged the o ring on install.
@@severinalexandru8454I got mine directly from dealer with that part number. They likely didn't get the union seated properly in the oil cooler or damaged the o ring on install. It's likely the same union. Febi likely makes it for VW.
@@Anthonyg909 and you don’t have leaks now?
@@severinalexandru8454 no sir.
This is a great time to also clean the intake valves assuming you pull the manifold.
Damn he makes that look easy 😜
At 8:06 in the video, where the heck is that last T30 bolt on the back side? I can't find it
Nice video !
Man, I wish you made this video earlier. Before, I had to use another guys video that talked about what the pump does but he didn't show most of the removal or installation of the pump at all. So I had to figure it out pausing the video part by part to see what to change. Already changed my water pump and thermostat, but good to see a video for it. Hopefully it'll help some ppl change it.
how did he clean it and prevented the debris from going into the air intake cavities?
I was wondering where is the thermostat in relation to the water pump? They are all self contained in one part on the b9 correct?
Kostenpunkt?
Thank you.What is the coolant amount for this job?1 bottle is enough?
Is there a upgraded water pump i could replace it with instead of going the oem route and risk having to do this again?
Get an aluminium water pump
broke the breather line that goes to the radiator….this job is hard….to be continued tomorrow. having a hard time getting the manifold completely off. not sure what it’s caught on. also, the torx screw for the plastic cover, one is near the transmission and i have no ideas how you got any tool there to undo that screw. 😭
My 2018 Q5 with 39k miles had its pump go out. Replaced under CPO warranty (along with radiator and engine mounts). Now watching this as it seems these pumps only last 40-60k miles..
makes sense I just turned 80k on my a4 and I'm starting smell that sweet smell of money, I mean antifreeze when my wife pulls her car in.....smell of money I'm referring about the dealership talking my money lol
My q7 has a 2.0 turbo like this would the water pump be the same for me . Any info would be great
I’m guessing this is harder than it looks 🙂
It certainly is
I just woke up to no coolant in my reservoir, suddenly. Think it’s time to start educating myself on repairs.
Hope there is a video for B9 S4/ S5!
isn't that what this is?
Did this to my A4 around 10k miles ago when it hit 70k miles. As per the dealership there is a recall for the water pump but they will ONLY replace the water pump and not the thermostat. Didn’t make sense to me as they are one unit and the thermostat would most likely fail soon after water pump. That why I just didn’t myself. Car was no longer under warranty. Not a hard job. Most difficult was just putting the belt as this is a belt driven pump. Removing the intake manifold is not necessary either 😉.
How did you do it without removing manifold?
@ if I recall. I think I removed the throttle body and all the Intake. Wasn’t hard. But I never removed the intake manifold I remember that for sure.
@ you mean intercooler?
@machko1 lol intercooler ??? No. I mean throttle body. There’s two screws that are kinda hard to get on top on the water pump right under the throttle body. I removed throttle body, Intake and charge pipe for better clearance and room to work.
@@dannyb5863 isn’t intake on the left side of the engine with inlet and aurbox etc? Or what do you mean by intake
Audi A4 2017 water pump replacement is $1200 via a dealership.
I was just texting my dealership friend. I’ll do it myself.
thanks for posting that I was thinking it would be a grand... I may be in for this my self....Part is 500 + So 1 grand from the dealer is worth it to me this video has me shitting my pants to try an attempt this.
If anyone needs then new water pump replacement, made of metal, the part number is K11235,
"K11235 GEBA WATER PUMP-GOLF VII WITH BELT & EXPENSION SCREW, Price: 223.14$, Weight: 0.35kg"
Damn how much does a job like this cost????
Thank you for showing me not to buy a newer Audi. Thats worse to fix than on a 2004 W12 A8 😂😢
Men that connector pipe was a hassle to couple
Whats funny is that the replacement is also plastic….there is “no improvement” over the OEM piece! 😂😂
Is not that easy..especially the gas line 😒 lot of patience and the right tools I did one today
THANKS for confirming my thoughts exactly F that. I was just looking at parts and then this video I was like UM NO Fing WAY!
@VictorCiccarone wise choice
@VictorCiccarone not to mention the flops in the intake you got to make sure they're closed with a vacuum pump if you put them in and they're open you would never get rid of that check engine light
This is a typical diy for a german car, this isn't an easy to work on pushrod V8.
So why do this repair when Audi is offering a warranty extension on all B9 2.0 Water pump leaks and thermostat failures. Just call the dealer and confirm you warranty extension by providing your vin.
Camera man sucks gotta get in there to see I good pic go to naptown tuner much better video
You don’t need to remove intake manifold to do this. Takes me about an hour to do this job… probably could do it in 30 if I don’t dick around 😂
has anyone actually done this, im considering doing it my self but im not gonna lie i am intimidated lol
It took me about an hour to do. I didn’t take the manifold off.
@@orange2352how did you do it without taking off the manifold though
@@austintrashboat you have plenty of room to do it. Just kinda sucks having to bend over in an awkward position. The manifold support bar and throttle body I did take off to help create extra room. The manifold itself isn’t hard to remove but really is no point… also a ton of these Audi cars come with like an 8 yr 80k mileage extended warranty now, fyi.
@@orange2352 80K warranty REALLY I need to go to the dealer then I just hit 80k Ill make them fix this fucking mess....
Wtf VW and audi😂 What a joke omg, this pathetic water pump and thermostat is well known easily wear out and would suddenly fail for not reason since VW introducees ea888 gen2. It has been over 15 years and they can't figure out to design this thing with better quality lol. I am just so surprised this part is still installed on b9 2.0t with no progression but with the harder step of installation😂😂😂 omg cheers for audi ea888. I personally diy replaced this part on my q5 2014 gen3 2.0t for three times in one year. I love audi😂😂😂😂 Can't believe it still happening on the newer generation. So confused😂
Whos got the time to tear your car apart to do this? its prob worth me taking the damn car in and paying a mechanic with the right tools to do it right. By the time I buy the parts and tools and take it all apart and screw something else up I may as well buy a new car
Why the fuck Audi? Why isnt it a belt driven accessory on the front of the engine like every other 4cyl engine ever made. Why? 😮
Audi designed the EA113 1.8T, which was amazeballs.. Why is the EA888 2.0T such a shitter? 😢
DONT replace with a plastic pump, or you’ll prematurely be back here again. All-metal pump only!!!
Let me know when there's a full metal pump available for the B9 🙄
This ain’t a DIY….
I have come to the same conclusion. :)
Yes it is
Yes it is. Just did this job on my 18 Q5 and it wasn't too bad.
Yeah that's definitely a DIY job
Yes it is