Great video and explanation. I ordered the tension tool, pliers, and replacement clips per the description in your video. It was surprisingly not as hard as I thought due to how well you explained everything!! Thank you.
2019 1.5T. It’s a 19mm stubby socket. The special serpentine belt tool was very helpful. Had to also remove the antifreeze reservoir which pulled right out.
You're the second or third person I've lately that sprays the clips with some type of lube before removing them. I'll have to start giving that a try, maybe it'll save me from breaking a few of the old brittle ones. I have the same serpentine belt tool kit and it's made me not hate tough to get to tensioners anymore
Thanks for the comment! The process should be pretty similar, just using a ratchet or wrench to turn the tension arm instead, but that's a good idea, I'll try to make a video replacing the belt without the serpentine belt tool for comparison.
It is very similar. The tensioner on the 2.0 engine also has the hole for the pin to lock it in place. The tensioner is similar and in the same place. The pulleys and routing are very similar, the only difference is that there is one extra roller pulley between the water pump and alternator which deflects the belt down a bit. But overall it looks quite similar.
Did you use an oem honda belt? I used a Continental I got from autozone. It seems way too tight. I called a few places and I got the correct one. I let it sit in direct sunlight for an hour and tried a second time and got it on. This could damage the alternator? It's been a few hundred miles
Hi Aaron, Yes, I used the OEM belt. Interesting about your experience with the Continental belt. If you were able to get it on without really prying it on there or something, then even if the belt was too short, the tension should still have been set by the tensioner. So I think it is unlikely that you would have damaged anything in my opinion.
Thanks. Been looking for 10th gen civic serpentine belt video. Gonna try this on the Type R. Was wondering if there was access on the wheel well area. I'm guessing it should.
Thanks for the comment Robert. Yes, this was on a 1.5T Accord. I got an OEM Belt (from hondaautomotiveparts) which is a Bando part. However, when I took the original out, it was still in such good shape that I decided to wait on replacing it and ended up just putting the original one back in. I thought with 120k miles it would look worse but it was actually still in great shape.
Good question! You can definitely do it without removing the wheel by just accessing it from the top. I have done it that way several times. However, it is a little more difficult that way.
No, sorry I don't. Do you have failed injectors? I have heard that this has become a common problem on many Hondas. At least on some models, it seems like there was an assembly issue which caused the premature failure. On some models the warranty on the fuel injectors has been extended. So you might check with the dealer if there is a warranty extension or if they might work with you on this issue.
@@JohnsDIY just wanna know for future reference. I have 2018 Honda accord 1.5 around 44k miles. No issues with my car. I’ve done all the maintenance but like you know with these 1.5 a lot issues on some… thanks for the feedback
@@blackhawks1870 Thanks for the reply! Glad to hear no issues for you so far. I haven't had any major issues either and have over 170k miles so far on my 2018. I do have the outstanding recall for the fuel pump replacement but last I talked to the dealer, they still didn't have any fuel pumps in stock to do the recall at this point.
@@JohnsDIYyou should call other Honda dealerships near you, I called one and they’d had like 3 available I set up appt for 4 days later bc my tank was full. Service rep said it would be best if the tank wasn’t full. So I had to waste my gas lol
I don't think there is any particular service interval for replacing the water pump. Usually, it is just replaced when it starts to leak or the bearing starts to make noise. I don't have a video on that yet, but plan to make one shortly since I will be doing that job on my Accord soon. On these 10th generation accords, the service data actually says you have to take out the catalytic converter and turbocharger in order to change the water pump! I am going to try to see if there is a way around that!
I haven’t been able to find a video anywhere online showing how to replace the tensioner pulley. I have a slight rattle and I thought I’d replace it at the same time that I am replacing my serpentine belt. Have you done that to your car yet?
Nope, I haven't replaced the drive belt tensioner pulley on mine. However, I did remove the belt tensioner assembly to get access to the water pump. If you want to see removal of the whole tensioner assembly, it is at about 19:00 in the following video: ua-cam.com/video/hslktGrHUeY/v-deo.html It looks like the tensioner pulley is removed with just one bolt through the pulley. You might consider just replacing the whole tensioner assembly since the cost of the pulley plus the tensioner is more than the cost of the entire assembly. I agree, it makes sense to me to replace it if it is starting to rattle. Good luck with the repair!
Hey John, I noticed my car said I have a charging system problem which was related to a possibly faulty belt. I hear some kind of rattling in that area as well. Do you think a belt replacement would correct it or could it be something else?
Hi Don, If the belt was slipping then it could certainly affect the alternator output which could show up as a charging system problem, but it seems somewhat unlikely to me that it would be slipping that much. Plus, I wouldn't think a bad belt would result in any rattling. Does the belt look in good condition, especially if you look at the underside of it like where it wraps around the tensioner?
@@June4Marcus Interesting Don. I had to replace my 2018 Accord battery as well which surprised me as it seemed somewhat early for that. In my case, I didn't get any warnings, but it just didn't start one time! It was interesting since in the past on other vehicles (including other Hondas) I always had some warning -- like getting slower to turn over the engine before it failed outright. But on this vehicle, there was no warning at all - straight from good to bad!
@@June4Marcus As to the rattling, can you narrow down where it is coming from? If you look at the tensioner while it is running does the pulley look steady (not bouncing around or anything)?
66,000 miles on my 1.5t civic and mine just broke. Didn't come off, just half of it shredded. Car immediately went into limp mode, and started lugging like crazy! Just so happens I decided to pull off the road right into an auto repair shop. Typically I would do it myself. But since I have no way to go get the belt, and the car is parked at the repair shop ill just have them do it. I knew I should have done it at 50k!
Interesting! Years ago it seemed like it was pretty common to have a belt shred up, but I haven't heard of that happening for quite some time! Pretty fortunate you were able to pull right into a shop though! I hope it is just the belt and not that some pulley seized up and caused the belt to shred. Let us know how you make out!
@@JohnsDIY well the car runs and the belt is spinning. Just parts of it are flopping around . I made sure all the pulleys were spinning too. Happened when I went to pass someone too. Felt like I blew a charge pipe or intercooler hose. That's what I thought it was at first. The belt had been looking kinda old. Just seems odd to have the factory honda style belt break at 66,000 miles. My car is a 19 though.
@@vermontvermont9292 That's good that it is just the belt and at least should be pretty inexpensive to fix! Yep, I'm with you, pretty surprised it would go at that little mileage/age.
@@JohnsDIY car is STILL stuck in limp mode. Even after the new belt. I've checked every fuse, unhooked the battery, tried reseting the head unit, nothing works.
I don't really know anything about blow-off valves or where they are typically installed on the 1.5T, but it doesn't look like removing that panel would help you at all. Looking at the turbo circuit: global.honda/common/content/dam/site/global/innovation/cq_img/technology/automobile/vtec-turbo/picturebook/s01.jpg The blow off valve would be between the intercooler and throttle body, right? So that is the pipe on the right side of the engine I believe. And then it would connect to the intake side of the turbo which I believe is the pipe on the top, right? So accessing from near the serpentine belt doesn't seem like it would buy you much. But this is out of my wheelhouse, so take it for what its worth!
I believe I used an M6 X 1.0 X 50mm but I don't think it matters too much. The diameter will allow a larger bolt than that and it could certainly be a little longer or shorter. Anything close to that should work fine.
Thank you for this video. I’m at 91K miles and should replace my belt soon. You saved me some money taking it to the dealer.
Thanks for the nice comment Steve! This is definitely a good DIY job to save a few bucks!
Lol I did mine on 140k
@@JohnsDIY im a new sub. Bro this helps alot. I have a 2018 H.A.S. 1.5L with 150k
@@henrynissanmimintruck Thanks for the nice comment! You are a little bit ahead of me on the mileage (130k on my 2018) but not by too much!
I’m about to change mine! It’s at 110k 😅
Great video and explanation. I ordered the tension tool, pliers, and replacement clips per the description in your video. It was surprisingly not as hard as I thought due to how well you explained everything!! Thank you.
Thanks for the nice comment Earl! And nice job getting that belt replaced yourself!
2019 1.5T. It’s a 19mm stubby socket. The special serpentine belt tool was very helpful. Had to also remove the antifreeze reservoir which pulled right out.
Thanks for adding those details! Good points! I think that you are right and it is worth pulling out the reservoir to gain the extra room!
Nice video I’m at 120k miles on my 2018 Honda accord sport 1.5 definitely gonna change the belt now
Thank you sir! Very clear instructions 👍🏽 With this video I can confidently take care of my serpentine belt in my 2018 1.5T Accord
Thanks Jose! Appreciate the comment and good luck replacing the belt on your Accord!
You're the second or third person I've lately that sprays the clips with some type of lube before removing them. I'll have to start giving that a try, maybe it'll save me from breaking a few of the old brittle ones. I have the same serpentine belt tool kit and it's made me not hate tough to get to tensioners anymore
Absolutely with you there Bruce, that serpentine belt tool makes so much difference!
Great video. Straight and to the point.
Thanks for the nice comment! Appreciate that!
Thank you for the great video. Made my life much easier. 😊
Super helpful video. Thanks so much!
Thanks for the nice comment Gary! Appreciate it!
thank you very much for the video it helped a lot
I'm happy to hear that, and thanks for the comment!
Thanks for the video! Just wish you would have shown a method without that special pulley tool
Thanks for the comment! The process should be pretty similar, just using a ratchet or wrench to turn the tension arm instead, but that's a good idea, I'll try to make a video replacing the belt without the serpentine belt tool for comparison.
Sir thank you for the video, I will change mine and I really appreciate for the help
Will it be the same for a 2.0 turbo
It is very similar. The tensioner on the 2.0 engine also has the hole for the pin to lock it in place. The tensioner is similar and in the same place. The pulleys and routing are very similar, the only difference is that there is one extra roller pulley between the water pump and alternator which deflects the belt down a bit. But overall it looks quite similar.
@@JohnsDIY thank you for taking the to respond.
Did you use an oem honda belt? I used a Continental I got from autozone. It seems way too tight. I called a few places and I got the correct one. I let it sit in direct sunlight for an hour and tried a second time and got it on. This could damage the alternator? It's been a few hundred miles
Hi Aaron, Yes, I used the OEM belt. Interesting about your experience with the Continental belt. If you were able to get it on without really prying it on there or something, then even if the belt was too short, the tension should still have been set by the tensioner. So I think it is unlikely that you would have damaged anything in my opinion.
Thanks. Been looking for 10th gen civic serpentine belt video. Gonna try this on the Type R. Was wondering if there was access on the wheel well area. I'm guessing it should.
Thanks for sharing!
Sure thing! And thank you for the nice comment!
Saw your link to this video on DriveAccord. Nice straightforward video. Was this a 1.5T Accord ? Also what brand of replacement belt did you use ?
Thanks for the comment Robert. Yes, this was on a 1.5T Accord. I got an OEM Belt (from hondaautomotiveparts) which is a Bando part. However, when I took the original out, it was still in such good shape that I decided to wait on replacing it and ended up just putting the original one back in. I thought with 120k miles it would look worse but it was actually still in great shape.
I’m approaching 100 k miles on my 2020 Honda accord should I replace the belt and also get the engine tool and what else would you recommend thank you
Do you have a video on replacing the front and rear shocks and struts on 2019 accord.
Sorry, I don't yet!
Did you have to remove the wheel?
Good question! You can definitely do it without removing the wheel by just accessing it from the top. I have done it that way several times. However, it is a little more difficult that way.
Can you do a serpentine belt on hrv
Do you have a video on how to replace fuel injectors? On Honda 1.5 accord ?
No, sorry I don't. Do you have failed injectors? I have heard that this has become a common problem on many Hondas. At least on some models, it seems like there was an assembly issue which caused the premature failure. On some models the warranty on the fuel injectors has been extended. So you might check with the dealer if there is a warranty extension or if they might work with you on this issue.
@@JohnsDIY just wanna know for future reference. I have 2018 Honda accord 1.5 around 44k miles. No issues with my car. I’ve done all the maintenance but like you know with these 1.5 a lot issues on some… thanks for the feedback
@@blackhawks1870 Thanks for the reply! Glad to hear no issues for you so far. I haven't had any major issues either and have over 170k miles so far on my 2018. I do have the outstanding recall for the fuel pump replacement but last I talked to the dealer, they still didn't have any fuel pumps in stock to do the recall at this point.
@@JohnsDIYyou should call other Honda dealerships near you, I called one and they’d had like 3 available I set up appt for 4 days later bc my tank was full. Service rep said it would be best if the tank wasn’t full. So I had to waste my gas lol
@@blackhawks1870 Thanks for the info! It has been a little while since I checked so I will check again and if not check some other dealers. Thanks!
Its recommended to change the water pump. Do you have a video on that? ty
I don't think there is any particular service interval for replacing the water pump. Usually, it is just replaced when it starts to leak or the bearing starts to make noise. I don't have a video on that yet, but plan to make one shortly since I will be doing that job on my Accord soon. On these 10th generation accords, the service data actually says you have to take out the catalytic converter and turbocharger in order to change the water pump! I am going to try to see if there is a way around that!
Here's a new video on replacing the water pump and thermostat if you are still interested in that:
ua-cam.com/video/hslktGrHUeY/v-deo.html
I haven’t been able to find a video anywhere online showing how to replace the tensioner pulley. I have a slight rattle and I thought I’d replace it at the same time that I am replacing my serpentine belt. Have you done that to your car yet?
Nope, I haven't replaced the drive belt tensioner pulley on mine. However, I did remove the belt tensioner assembly to get access to the water pump. If you want to see removal of the whole tensioner assembly, it is at about 19:00 in the following video:
ua-cam.com/video/hslktGrHUeY/v-deo.html
It looks like the tensioner pulley is removed with just one bolt through the pulley. You might consider just replacing the whole tensioner assembly since the cost of the pulley plus the tensioner is more than the cost of the entire assembly. I agree, it makes sense to me to replace it if it is starting to rattle. Good luck with the repair!
@@JohnsDIY that is incredibly helpful! Thank you very much
Hey John, I noticed my car said I have a charging system problem which was related to a possibly faulty belt. I hear some kind of rattling in that area as well. Do you think a belt replacement would correct it or could it be something else?
Hi Don, If the belt was slipping then it could certainly affect the alternator output which could show up as a charging system problem, but it seems somewhat unlikely to me that it would be slipping that much. Plus, I wouldn't think a bad belt would result in any rattling. Does the belt look in good condition, especially if you look at the underside of it like where it wraps around the tensioner?
@@JohnsDIY it ended up being a dead battery, however that rattling sound is still there. The belt is fine
@@June4Marcus Interesting Don. I had to replace my 2018 Accord battery as well which surprised me as it seemed somewhat early for that. In my case, I didn't get any warnings, but it just didn't start one time! It was interesting since in the past on other vehicles (including other Hondas) I always had some warning -- like getting slower to turn over the engine before it failed outright. But on this vehicle, there was no warning at all - straight from good to bad!
@@June4Marcus As to the rattling, can you narrow down where it is coming from? If you look at the tensioner while it is running does the pulley look steady (not bouncing around or anything)?
66,000 miles on my 1.5t civic and mine just broke. Didn't come off, just half of it shredded. Car immediately went into limp mode, and started lugging like crazy! Just so happens I decided to pull off the road right into an auto repair shop. Typically I would do it myself. But since I have no way to go get the belt, and the car is parked at the repair shop ill just have them do it. I knew I should have done it at 50k!
Interesting! Years ago it seemed like it was pretty common to have a belt shred up, but I haven't heard of that happening for quite some time! Pretty fortunate you were able to pull right into a shop though! I hope it is just the belt and not that some pulley seized up and caused the belt to shred. Let us know how you make out!
@@JohnsDIY well the car runs and the belt is spinning. Just parts of it are flopping around . I made sure all the pulleys were spinning too. Happened when I went to pass someone too. Felt like I blew a charge pipe or intercooler hose. That's what I thought it was at first. The belt had been looking kinda old. Just seems odd to have the factory honda style belt break at 66,000 miles. My car is a 19 though.
@@vermontvermont9292 That's good that it is just the belt and at least should be pretty inexpensive to fix! Yep, I'm with you, pretty surprised it would go at that little mileage/age.
@@JohnsDIY $156
@@JohnsDIY car is STILL stuck in limp mode. Even after the new belt. I've checked every fuse, unhooked the battery, tried reseting the head unit, nothing works.
I have a off topic question. I’m trying to install a blow off valve, so can you reach there easier when you opened up that panel?
I don't really know anything about blow-off valves or where they are typically installed on the 1.5T, but it doesn't look like removing that panel would help you at all. Looking at the turbo circuit:
global.honda/common/content/dam/site/global/innovation/cq_img/technology/automobile/vtec-turbo/picturebook/s01.jpg
The blow off valve would be between the intercooler and throttle body, right? So that is the pipe on the right side of the engine I believe. And then it would connect to the intake side of the turbo which I believe is the pipe on the top, right? So accessing from near the serpentine belt doesn't seem like it would buy you much. But this is out of my wheelhouse, so take it for what its worth!
any link to that bolt you used to hold everything in place? what is the spec of that M6 bolt? there are a lot at homedepot...
I believe I used an M6 X 1.0 X 50mm but I don't think it matters too much. The diameter will allow a larger bolt than that and it could certainly be a little longer or shorter. Anything close to that should work fine.
Where is the tool listed??
It's in the description section, below the video.