Engine Stand upgrade (save over $500)
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- Started with a $145 1250lb engine stand from Tractor Supply, and added a $40 worm gear winch, and came out with a product worth over $700
[1 year later it still works check this video • Engine stand upgrade (... ]
Torin Big Red
www.tractorsup...
Haul Master 1Ton hand winch
www.harborfrei...
inspired by video on Chet Spencer's channel
(credit due)
I found a 10 to 1 gearbox and mounted that to the back of my homemade stand , also a sprung loaded pin to lock the engine position on the end of the handle .
I like the idea, but I would have to make it so I could remove the gear because I have always found it easier to pull the actual mount out of the stand and bolt it onto the engine first. And then slot it into the stand while on the engine hoist. Neat idea
nice job. I wonder if I could cut the bracket off so its more flush with the one side. thanks for sharing
Genius!!
I’d like to have seen this operate with the “1200lb” engine on it, I’d bet it still will rotate on its own quickly when it’s centre of gravity is off, but now the crank will break a few bones.
Surprisingly, the mechanical advantage only goes one way. Might seem counter-intuitive, but the engine weight cannot move the worm gear it has too much resistance. I have a video I did a year later where I push it to its limits...
@@harpersisland ua-cam.com/video/IB90nr5EiGQ/v-deo.htmlsi=S2o0GBkcIA46oSc-
I notice you removed the lock for the gear. Doesn't this want to free spin the heavy side of the engine to the low point? A couple of nuts welded to the tube clocked at 4 and 8 would enable a solid lockup.
Nope...
You would think, but it doesn't. The worm gear has enough friction and the mechanical advantage is on the other end
I’m going to do this but instead of welding the gear to it i plan on holding the gear in place with a pin as well so I can remove the plate to bolt to the engine easier
Please explain what you’re talking about? I want to do it where I can remove it.
It would be a good idea to have a bigger tube welded to the gear. Where the tube is thick and snugged. Where you can slide in and out. And have the same hole diameter from the handle bar. This way you can slide a thick pin or a bolt. This will give versatile engine stand.
e@@papergatorzfedducca7998
Now put a small plug patch over the old pin hole and install a zerk fitting and now pump some grease into it, it will be real smooth. I did it to mine, it makes a huge difference
center the engine with the mounting plate & grease the stand pipe area and a kid can rotate a V8 , no problem
I had modified my engine stand over 25 years ago with a Chevy 4 wheel drive front bolt on spindle and cut the hat off of the rotor. Welded the rotor hub with the bearings on the engine stand in place of the pipe. Then welded the spindle to the engine plate. It rotates too good. I've been looking for a worm gear setup make it work better. Thanks
Nice build on this mod!
Just weld 3 tabs on the main shaft so it won't move forward or back
Bro...this is the best project I've came across this year! About to head out to HF now.👍👍
I was going to build an electric one 15 years ago
I need to build this.
How did you save $500. When you can buy a heaver duty set up basically the same way for $300?
It was compared to an engine stand with a worm gear. At the time of this video they were $700.
Now you can’t take the mounting plate off to easily bolt it to the engine 🙄
True. But I chose function over form. I used a ceiling mounted winch to mount the engine, so it was not a problem for me.
@@AlexPlatacis still a pain to get it lined up. Much easier when you it comes apart.
What if you found a pipe that could slide into the orginal engine stand that rotates and have a pin, or bolt through the hold where the bar to turn the engine used to go ? Then you could bolt the engine to the carrier and then with the hoist fit that carrier into the "head" and then, once there, add the gear set and pin that into the carrier ?? We will see.
Only problem I see with your idea is that reducing the diameter of the "inner pipe/pin" is you lose a lot of of strength. You would probably need to reinforce the backing plate with 1/2" steel plate, and then weld a solid steel pin and hope for the best.
That is a GREAT mod!
You rock! I'm hitting HF this week to build this
Try it with a load
You can buy a heavy duty stand with built in crank that turns on bearings from harbor freight for under $300.00
@tonyalberts2006 perhaps, but not at the time I made this.
Also, it was fun to make something cheep much better. I have another video where I have since mounted my vice, and welder on it to make a mobile fabrication unit
@@tonyalberts2006 ua-cam.com/video/rdJaCmPIBkI/v-deo.htmlsi=fgIg8sgAxYteQdkv
Genius
smart
Just what I was looking for. The big 365 is slighly off center and when it wanted to roll, it just took me along with it. Going to HF in a few minutes.
I would like to see it working with a engine on it
I have a few videos of the engine on the mount in this play list...
in this video I am actively cranking it around to show the oil path.
ua-cam.com/video/UKIIEkGGyO8/v-deo.html
Pretty damm good but good luck bolting an engine to it now its unremovable, suppose you could turn it upside down
I bolted it on while hoisted. I have mounted a winch in my garage ceiling. But, I suppose you could also use an engine hoist(cherry picker)
I have since mounted my vice on the engine stand. Very handy having a metal working station on wheels
@@Sloposse ua-cam.com/video/rdJaCmPIBkI/v-deo.htmlsi=39UzfeJc33Wk84N7
Good job!
my only problem is getting the ebgine if the perfect position to bolt it the the head of the stand
I used a winch. But I suppose if you have an engine hoist (cherry picker) it should not be any harder than putting the engine back into the car
lets see it spin with a bbc or sbc on it my boi
Actually I was surprised my self at how well it worked. I originally did this for a 1800 MGB 4 cylinder. so I had no great expectations. it was just a fun project. But it turned out to be quite capable. I think I am going to revisit this project and see if I can get more use from the stand.
but thanks for your feed back. Every response helps the video get in front of more people.
You shouldn't be rotating a fully assembled engine. There's no reason to and it's unsafe to offset the weight that much.
Once the heads are off if your block is centered weight wise, it should rotate with one hand.
Nice! But how do you stop it from moving previously you had the pin?
you might thing it would just move but the gear ratio is high enough that it does not need a pin. it does not move
worm gears only work one way
Love it.. nice.. 💪🏽
I'd like to see it work with an engine on it though 😄
I actually have a few videos of my rebuild where I used it. And a year later, I did a follow up video where I bolted an 8 foot 2×6 on it and tried to break it.
Held up nicely. I will post some links for your viewing pleasure
ua-cam.com/video/UKIIEkGGyO8/v-deo.htmlsi=MFYuLTJq8_W2o6r7
ua-cam.com/video/IB90nr5EiGQ/v-deo.htmlsi=X_twFnKgyGuF1x2f
After a while I decided to make it into a portable metal working station. By mounting my vice on it
ua-cam.com/video/rdJaCmPIBkI/v-deo.htmlsi=Xd4wzx8PNRhotXLX
will it be able to turn when the full weight of a engine is on there tho?
Yeah, it worked great.
With the engine on it, it rotated easily, and stayed in place. Even when I was wrenching bolts.
@@AlexPlatacis Alex, what about a heavy american V8 ? Thanks
so.... you cant remove the Head unit to mount your engine..... so you now need to try to mount the engine to the stand while it swings from you cherry picker..... nice idea.... but lacking..... a lot.....
True. But I don't have a cherry picker...
I mounted a winch in my roof. Which was way easy to mount. I did a video on that too
Here is my quick video on how I mounted the engine
Not really "lacking" just an alternative method.
ua-cam.com/video/yrl8zVKMZic/v-deo.html
@@AlexPlatacis I just like to be able to pull the head of the stand off to make it easier to mount the engine. I do like the idea though.
I suppose instead of welding the sprocket on, you could figure a way to bolt it on. That would enable the head unit to be removed.
I will mention that in my follow-up video, I am working on. Thanks for the input. This whole channel is all about sharing experience and ideas.