Genius way of doing the test sample. That way it ignores some heating differences that happens when the layer time is too short and the under layer is not yet cooled down. So you can also compare print speed/adhesion correctly with this technique...as well as how part cooling fan affects the part as it just passes on the layer and doesnt stay there like a small sample part
Hi Simon, seems he does not know you, so leme introduce you: PP, this is Vez3D the designer of VZ BOT and VZ BOT AWD, and record holder for several 3D printing categories. He is also an extremely nice human being. Simon, this is PP, he does some awesome videos tackling mostly subjects others run away from regarding 3D printing, he is very thorough and delves deep into subjects while explaining things in very easy to digest sections. I absolutely enjoy his videos. - As a general advice, when someone replies to your videos, do check their channel first. I always do, and i have 4 channels.
I've always found layer adhesion of ABS and ASA to be a problem with printers without a heated chamber. I printed some Bambu ABS in my QIDI XPlus3 with a 65C chamber and it definitely improves the layer adhesion. Before I could crack the layers with my hands, but now I'm unable to. I'd love a test redone with engineering grade filaments in heated chambers.
I always heatsoak my X1C before larger prints and I print slower than default settings so I never noticed anything different. But it is hard to notice even a 20% difference by breaking stuff with hands, it has to be something way more significant.
Great video, thanks for testing. I'm a big fan of the new PETG HF. As for temperature resistance, in actual use the PETG HF is the same or slightly higher than the basic. IIRC, Dr Igor's test showed PETG HF to be 64c and PETG basic 61 or 62c. Either way, probably not a concern. I love these types of tests, keep at it! A side note, what you encountered with the S4 is what I suspected would happen based on the design, and why I skipped jumping on the hype train the s4 generated. I still use my simple food dehydrator and it's been great. It moves a ton of air, which is where most of these dedicated dryers falter. The polymaker polydryer is a nice design though. It has baffles that direct the air so it's not right on the filament. The air vents are also not as close to the filament when drying.
That is interesting about the temperature resistance of the PETG-HF. Yeah, it is a bummer about the Sunlu S4... It is a nice dryer, but the main important thing is a design fail, so...
Another great one, thanks! Just a small note, bambus pla basic is not a regular or pure pla, it has high impact resistance and is a fast pla. It is similar to polymakers polysonic pro let's say.
Thanks, that is good to know. They call it basic so I call it basic, you know. The highest layer adhesion at higher flow rates filament that I tested was Creality Hyper PLA White/natural color, but it stinks like poison... These days you never know what crap companies put in them.
I have a TwoTrees SK1 that is pretty much dead right now. Can you share more of your conversion? What printer.cfg are you using? Can you share it and the other cfg file? I've sent the bracket off to PCBWay for aa quote. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks. I have mixed opinion about it. It definitely has more consistent extrusion that dual drive gear ones, but because that single drive gear is quite small at higher flow rates it deforms and filaments slightly slips along the drive gear. They advertise it as basically "TPU beast" but I am not a TPU guy so I haven't tried it with TPU yet. I don't like that the gearbox gears are exposed and with grease, but overall it is not a bad extruder, but it is also not a great one. To achieve the lightness it sacrifices convenience. So I don't know.
Well PLA doesn't get wet to begin with, so the differences are clearly small. I expected ASA tests also when using a Q1 enclosed+heated 55 °C chamber. It might reach almost basic PLA levels.
Hi can you point where to look for a spreadsheet that calculates wall widths depending on the number of walls, layer height and path width settings in slicer?
Do you mean that image of the layers in the spreadsheet? It is just a basic visualization that I made in Fusion 3D of how two extruded lines look and what dimensions I take into the MPa formula.
@@PrintingPerspective About. Thanks for the reply. I'm looking for information for wall measurement for flow setting. If the wall is single then it is easy to measure the thickness with a micrometer. But I have a problem with double wall. I don't know how to interpret orcaslicer's information that the path thickness with double wall is for example 0.41mm This double wall should be 0.82mm or 0.82mm minus some thickness value for gluing the paths together?
If you use Arachne wall generation and your wall is 0.8mm in the 3D model it will automatically adjust extrusion width. Even if you set it to 0.6mm you will still get two thinner walls. The only info I know is this: github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer/wiki/Precise-wall there is a link to the Slic3r documentation.
It drives me insane seeing people who store their filament out exposed to the air. Unless you live an extremely dry area, they should be stored in containers with desiccant. I have the Eibos Polyphemus which rotates rolls while drying. I think it's important to rotate filaments to ensure not one area is being over-heated.
@@PrintingPerspective thanks! This would be the first time I will print ABS (in the info on the website it says they should be printed using ABS or anything more heat resistant). I’ve only printed PLA and PETG so far (I understood that ABS smells and it’s also not recommended for printing inside your home). Do you maybe have a suggestion for another filament? That is at least as temperature-resistant as ABS is, but safe to print inside your home and that doesn’t smell? Would one of the Bambu nylons be at least as good for this job as ABS is? Like PA6-CF or PAHT-CF? That’s all I have besides PLA, PETG, ASA and ABS (last 2 I never printed anything so far, but I understood they both smell and might even be toxic, so I would avoid those, having the printer in the office, where I work all day)
@@MStoica But is your printer even enclosed? Because you need that when printing ABS/ASA/PA with this print. If you have something like P1S or X1C buy some good ASA filament that will stink and warp less, keep ventilating the room, and stay in it as minimal as possible. Unfortunately, there is no other way. The plastic needs to withstand ~85-90C degree temps.
@@PrintingPerspective yes, I have the X1C. And I already have ASA, ABS, PA6-CF and PAHT-CF, I’ve just never used them. In your opinion, would ASA be better than one of the nylon-cf ones, for this application? Because, otherwise, I think I’d rather try one of the nylon ones 🤔
I'm surprised about the result that you got with the regular PETG. With the Revo hotend, flow rates far beyond 20m³/s should be no problem at all with most plain PETG filaments. I have tested several PETG brands at 20 mm³/s without failure on Bambu X1C even with stock hotend. And the Revo is far more capable. It almost makes the impression that you make the PETG-HF shine by comparing it to an exceptionally bad brand.
Genius way of doing the test sample. That way it ignores some heating differences that happens when the layer time is too short and the under layer is not yet cooled down. So you can also compare print speed/adhesion correctly with this technique...as well as how part cooling fan affects the part as it just passes on the layer and doesnt stay there like a small sample part
I don't know, maybe I am cooked too much, as I have no clue what exactly you are tyring to say. ;D I will read it again tomorrow, lol.
Hi Simon, seems he does not know you, so leme introduce you:
PP, this is Vez3D the designer of VZ BOT and VZ BOT AWD, and record holder for several 3D printing categories.
He is also an extremely nice human being.
Simon, this is PP, he does some awesome videos tackling mostly subjects others run away from regarding 3D printing, he is very thorough and delves deep into subjects while explaining things in very easy to digest sections. I absolutely enjoy his videos.
-
As a general advice, when someone replies to your videos, do check their channel first.
I always do, and i have 4 channels.
@toma.3d bro, stop trolling ;D
@@PrintingPerspective Having a break, so ... 😃
@@PrintingPerspective we can chat about it :)
I've always found layer adhesion of ABS and ASA to be a problem with printers without a heated chamber. I printed some Bambu ABS in my QIDI XPlus3 with a 65C chamber and it definitely improves the layer adhesion. Before I could crack the layers with my hands, but now I'm unable to. I'd love a test redone with engineering grade filaments in heated chambers.
I always heatsoak my X1C before larger prints and I print slower than default settings so I never noticed anything different. But it is hard to notice even a 20% difference by breaking stuff with hands, it has to be something way more significant.
I am glad that you showed flow rates.
Great video, thanks for testing. I'm a big fan of the new PETG HF. As for temperature resistance, in actual use the PETG HF is the same or slightly higher than the basic. IIRC, Dr Igor's test showed PETG HF to be 64c and PETG basic 61 or 62c. Either way, probably not a concern.
I love these types of tests, keep at it!
A side note, what you encountered with the S4 is what I suspected would happen based on the design, and why I skipped jumping on the hype train the s4 generated. I still use my simple food dehydrator and it's been great. It moves a ton of air, which is where most of these dedicated dryers falter. The polymaker polydryer is a nice design though. It has baffles that direct the air so it's not right on the filament. The air vents are also not as close to the filament when drying.
That is interesting about the temperature resistance of the PETG-HF.
Yeah, it is a bummer about the Sunlu S4... It is a nice dryer, but the main important thing is a design fail, so...
Thanks for this nice test. Dr. Igor needs to see this.
Thanks a lot for another very informative video!
Definetly one of the best channels, when it comes to 3DPrinting Science.
Glad you enjoy it! :)
Hmm interesting results.
Awesome video! Keep up this great work
Another great one, thanks! Just a small note, bambus pla basic is not a regular or pure pla, it has high impact resistance and is a fast pla. It is similar to polymakers polysonic pro let's say.
Thanks, that is good to know. They call it basic so I call it basic, you know. The highest layer adhesion at higher flow rates filament that I tested was Creality Hyper PLA White/natural color, but it stinks like poison... These days you never know what crap companies put in them.
@@PrintingPerspective yeah I think that pure pla doesn't even exist anymore :D can't wait to see more, thanks!
Great stuff
I have a TwoTrees SK1 that is pretty much dead right now. Can you share more of your conversion? What printer.cfg are you using? Can you share it and the other cfg file? I've sent the bracket off to PCBWay for aa quote. Any help would be appreciated.
Great video...How do you like the Artemis?
Thanks. I have mixed opinion about it. It definitely has more consistent extrusion that dual drive gear ones, but because that single drive gear is quite small at higher flow rates it deforms and filaments slightly slips along the drive gear. They advertise it as basically "TPU beast" but I am not a TPU guy so I haven't tried it with TPU yet. I don't like that the gearbox gears are exposed and with grease, but overall it is not a bad extruder, but it is also not a great one. To achieve the lightness it sacrifices convenience. So I don't know.
Well PLA doesn't get wet to begin with, so the differences are clearly small.
I expected ASA tests also when using a Q1 enclosed+heated 55 °C chamber. It might reach almost basic PLA levels.
Great video, interesting subject as always, Love it :-)
Thanks! :)
Hi can you point where to look for a spreadsheet that calculates wall widths depending on the number of walls, layer height and path width settings in slicer?
Do you mean that image of the layers in the spreadsheet? It is just a basic visualization that I made in Fusion 3D of how two extruded lines look and what dimensions I take into the MPa formula.
@@PrintingPerspective About.
Thanks for the reply.
I'm looking for information for wall measurement for flow setting.
If the wall is single then it is easy to measure the thickness with a micrometer.
But I have a problem with double wall.
I don't know how to interpret orcaslicer's information that the path thickness with double wall is for example 0.41mm
This double wall should be 0.82mm or 0.82mm minus some thickness value for gluing the paths together?
If you use Arachne wall generation and your wall is 0.8mm in the 3D model it will automatically adjust extrusion width. Even if you set it to 0.6mm you will still get two thinner walls.
The only info I know is this: github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer/wiki/Precise-wall there is a link to the Slic3r documentation.
It drives me insane seeing people who store their filament out exposed to the air. Unless you live an extremely dry area, they should be stored in containers with desiccant.
I have the Eibos Polyphemus which rotates rolls while drying. I think it's important to rotate filaments to ensure not one area is being over-heated.
Sorry if i missed it but so you have the air deflectors posted anywhere
It is in the video description, but from now my most models will be with a small fee.
@@PrintingPerspective thanks! This would be the first time I will print ABS (in the info on the website it says they should be printed using ABS or anything more heat resistant). I’ve only printed PLA and PETG so far (I understood that ABS smells and it’s also not recommended for printing inside your home). Do you maybe have a suggestion for another filament? That is at least as temperature-resistant as ABS is, but safe to print inside your home and that doesn’t smell?
Would one of the Bambu nylons be at least as good for this job as ABS is? Like PA6-CF or PAHT-CF? That’s all I have besides PLA, PETG, ASA and ABS (last 2 I never printed anything so far, but I understood they both smell and might even be toxic, so I would avoid those, having the printer in the office, where I work all day)
@@MStoica But is your printer even enclosed? Because you need that when printing ABS/ASA/PA with this print. If you have something like P1S or X1C buy some good ASA filament that will stink and warp less, keep ventilating the room, and stay in it as minimal as possible. Unfortunately, there is no other way. The plastic needs to withstand ~85-90C degree temps.
@@PrintingPerspective yes, I have the X1C. And I already have ASA, ABS, PA6-CF and PAHT-CF, I’ve just never used them. In your opinion, would ASA be better than one of the nylon-cf ones, for this application? Because, otherwise, I think I’d rather try one of the nylon ones 🤔
@MStoica if you don't care about the price then sure, try it with nylon :) ASA or ABS would be the most cost effective, you know.
Can you share wiring diagram and configuration
good job bro
thanks bro
I'm surprised about the result that you got with the regular PETG. With the Revo hotend, flow rates far beyond 20m³/s should be no problem at all with most plain PETG filaments. I have tested several PETG brands at 20 mm³/s without failure on Bambu X1C even with stock hotend. And the Revo is far more capable. It almost makes the impression that you make the PETG-HF shine by comparing it to an exceptionally bad brand.
Yes Hellooo
Yes. Hello. lol.
@@PrintingPerspective great content again ! Love the research content big time
First
nice