How to use a Finger Joint Router Bit to Join Wood
Вставка
- Опубліковано 15 вер 2024
- In this video I show you how to use a finger joint router bit to join wood together. The reason I'm doing this instead of just gluing up the two flat edges together is because this wood will be exposed to weather, so I want the joint to be as strong as possible by having more surface area for the glue.
These glue-ups are to create wide panels of poplar that I am going to use to sheathe the base of a cupola that I am building.
Drillpro offered to send me a bit to try it out in a video, and it came at the perfect time to use for the cupola. You can visit their website to see all the products they offer: bit.ly/2HFQEoK
You can find the Drillpro finger joint router bit on eBay by using one of the following links:
For delivery to USA and Canada: rover.ebay.com...
For delivery to UK: rover.ebay.com...
For delivery to Australia and New Zealand: rover.ebay.com...
For delivery anywhere else around the world: rover.ebay.com...
Thank you for subscribing to my channel! www.youtube.com...
And be sure to check out my website at www.woodumakeit... !
email: woodumakeit@gmail.com
Instagram: / woodumakeit
Facebook: / reallywoodumakeit
Twitter: / woodumakeit
Pinterest: / woodumakeit
Thanks Michael for the great idea. I do have a finger joint bit, but never use it that often. I do a lot of butt joining wood to make larger boards but this is by far the best recommendation ever. Thanks again, and be safe. Tim
Good demonstration.
And, yeah - I'd make that!
It would also work good for building tabletop as well as other things. Might have to pick one up. Thanks for the ideas. Keep up the great video's
Great video. Im a newbie in wood working. The finger joint is another option out there to join wood together. And there are tons of other options out there too.
Wouldn't you just flip the second piece and run it through? I'm thinking the bit handles its own alignment ....
I don't think so. It would make the cut on the second piece exactly the same which would give you two 'males/females' along the same path. The cuts need to be opposite, this is why he lowered (or you could raise I suppose) the bit.
I thought so too, but that didn’t work for my bit. I had to lower my bit by 1/8”, which is different than what the author did.
I watched another video where the person tried that and it didn't work.
You have to raise the bit to a certain height. Then you can just flip the second board and it will fit perfectly. The bit can’t handle its own alignment because that depends on the thickness of the material you are using. As far as I remember you have to align the edge of one of the router’s “teeth” to the Center of the material.
nice to see , i'm not the only one with a hot water heater in the shop . its so annoying , always in the way . thanks for the demo . i wondered about them maybe someday i'll give it a go.
I love the way he says "I was able to figure it out" regarding the height adjustment part. Be nice if he'd share that part, as that's why I watched the vid.
at 1:13 he says he lowered the router by 5/32"
@@kaackster Does that 5/32" work for every thickness of board OR is it specific to his board and if so HOW DID HE FIGURE IT OUT. That's what the person above was probably saying.
Yea the title says "How to use a Finger Joint Router Bit" and he just skipped explaining the most important part of how to know how much the bit needs to be raised.
The fingers are 5/32" or 4mm wide so you need to move the cutter 5/32" or 4mm up or down when making the second cuts
@@mustang60348 The fingers are 5/32" or 4mm wide so you need to move the cutter 5/32" or 4mm up or down when making the second cuts
Surprised you used a fingerjoint to edge glue. Fingerjoints are normally used to glue short pieces together to make longer ones.
I actually just discovered one of these bits and am going to buy it next payday. It seems like a really good tool to have around...even for joining end grain to get rid of a highly figured area or piece with a knot...not to mention just good old making of boards.
Nice work! Thanks for sharing 😎👍JP
Yes! I am going to make it
I'm planning to finger joint the ends of my 1 x 6 boards for fascia on the house. I don't like the ends to be square and cut at an angle is okay but I'd rather make finger joints, glue them together and put them up as one long piece. I'll see how that works and get back to you. Thanks for the video.
It's been a year. How did the finger joints work on the end grain?
@@rso1411 I haven't gotten round to doing this yet. Maybe this spring.
5/32 is the key!
aka ~4 mm 🙂
I made a lot of trials and my goal was, to set the routerbit in a way, so I could use it to cut both sides of the wood without changing the hight of the routerbit.
I found, that I first have to find the exactly middle of the woods strength and mark it.
Then the routerbit has to be set with the middle from one of the inclined faces alignet with the mark.
This has to be extremly correct becaus in the other way you will get an offset, when glueing the parts together.
I dont’t know, what way will be the better one, because in both cases you will have to do a very complex and accurate setting.
I hope you'll understand what I mean.
Nice
I thought it was only necessary to flip the second piece upside down before passing in on the router, without moving the bit. Did you try?
Pier Paolo Biagi Hi - that is possible but your timber would have be a specific thickness. The way it works is the second piece has to have the cut made so that the fingers match up perfectly with the gaps in the other board. To do this, you cut the second piece one finger width higher or lower. I assume the fingers are 5/32" or 4mm wide so you need to move the cutter 5/32" or 4mm up or down when making the second cuts. If your timber thickness is some exact even multiple of the finger width, you could just flip every second board (eg 2x, 4x, 6x and so on). Hope this helps.
I agree with what justcruisin109 wrote. To be able to just flip the board over, the thickness of the board needs to be an exact multiple (by an even number) of the width of a finger, otherwise it won't work out the way you'd expect.
I wonder if this doesn’t work by setting the bit height in a way that one of the teeth offsets from the edge of the board by half the height of a teeth. In this case, 2mm offset from the edge of a board. And that way you could just flip alternate boards and they would fit. That’s how seamless tile backgrounds are created at least.
@@betodrk Umm, yes, but the board would still need to be precisely the right thickness to make your idea work, otherwise the top surfaces would be offset and you'd have to plane them even. If you have a router table, it's easier just to change the bit height by 1/2 tooth, testing the fit before you commit to routing the good stock.
Thats how I understand it also
Hugh Jackman, you could use your adamantium claws to do finger joints.
Do you steel want to make it ?
Отлично)))
Hey Wolverine, how are you?
Nicd
How can i buy this Finger joint bit, Please send me the details.
Pavan Kumar There are links in the description, but this link might work for you depending upon where you live. m.ebay.com/itm/Reversible-Finger-Joint-Glue-Joint-Router-Bit-1-4-Shank-Woodworking-Tool/401184913179?rmvSB=true&ul_ref=rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F401184913179&campid=5338274638&toolid=20008&srcrot=711-53200-19255-0&rvr_id=1596286388237&rvr_ts=9329ce0c1640ab1d1565e55cfff8642f&_mwBanner=1&_rdt=1&ul_noapp=true
What is the purpose of the bearing? If the board is thick enough then there would be a flat spot and the finger joint wouldn’t fit together anyway correct?
Excelente fresa....pena q não entendo seu idioma...uma legenda em português ajudaria bastante.
Класс
Poplar is a worse choice than plywood. It will rot in a year. Redwood or cedar, or even pine.
Poplar?! From my own experience, Poplar is an awful wood for outdoor usage. Use White Oak, Western Red Cedar or Redwood. You'll be replacing that Poplar in 5 years. Take it from someone that's had to replace rotted poplar. You may not be susceptible to rot in CA or AZ, but here in the NE, Poplar use is strictly indoors.
I've always used cedar or mahogany for outdoor projects, but I figured that poplar would be fine as long as it was painted well. I guess I was wrong about that. It's too late to change now because the project is almost finished. I guess this will be a learning experience for me. Thanks for the info! -- Mike
Here in Maryland we use poplar for exterior siding on barns and it last for years as long as it's high enough off the ground to stay dry and it is run vertical with spaces in between the boards. Don't let it touch and it will last. On our farm their is some over 60 years old.
Don’t show us how to run it through the router. We already know that. Show us how to set it up.
This video is not about 'how to use a finger joint router bit" because it doesn't deal with how one should set the correct height for the bit - which is really the essence of the exercise because the gluing and clamping relate to any joint: straight, dowel, biscuit, domino etc. So, pretty useless in my opinion.
I think a tongue and groove joint is stronger than finger joint. The finger joint is too thin.
No INSTRUCTIONS?? Don't they know they need to send some kind. It would take a lot of trial and error to get it right. Waste a lot of wood to figure it out.
Once you do get it right, make a set of alignment blocks and use them to set the bit heights for each mating half the next time you use this bit.
No
I did it myself. I used Woodprix woodworking plans for this.