Oh... I actually didn't realize that the jagged cuts should not be jagged all the way down to the part! :) Glad I saw this video! (Even though my first molds worked anyway :) )
That is a crazy complex piece to make a mold of! Thank you for sharing your process of approaching something with so many parts and holes to work around.
Thanks Bob, been waiting for this video, with anticipation, all week. I've been following you for nearly a year now and I learn something new every week. Yours are the best instructional videos on UA-cam. Thank You, Regards Jez
Now those are some crazy cuts Robert but the parts came out great! Even "professional" injection molded model kits require some clean up and gap filling at times. Well done on another tutorial. Cheers
I recently discovered your channel and i immediately fell in love with it! I love to listen to you, and the amount of valuable advice you give is priceless! Greetings from Poland, Robert.
Those were pretty complex models to cast... really mesmerizing to see how you deal with them... I already told you, but, it is fantastic just seeing how much you love what you do.
Slap enough vents on and you can cast almost anything! Seriously, it all comes down to position in space and getting the air out. If you get those two things right the mold fills up just like a glass of water.
Robert . How many castings you can make before this complex molds start to fail. If there are very detail and thin sections with intrincated forms. 🌺🌺 I love this video once again its a challenge
It was a great fun projects to do and I learned a lot in the process. Who knew there were so many members of the Tyrannosauridae family! Move over T-Rex, Daspletosaurus rules! Thanks for sending in the project. Hit me up anytime you run across more cool fossils.
wow Robert, this skull was such an intimidating prospect to mold, and you did such a good job! I'm learning more about mold making from watching your videos than I have in years.
Great job. I must admit, I used a lot of rubber bands around my mold. I ended up with exactly what you said would happen. Damned if I could figure out what I did wrong. Now I know. When I pour the next batch of resin, I’m definitely going to build wooden cradles to get better pressure. Thanks for drumming the wood cradle support into my head.
It was pretty interesting to see a casting be separated into multiple parts and put into on piece together again. It's actually more work than one would think, if you ain't into mold making and casting. Lovely video, I enjoyed it a lot.
Couldn't agree more! I used to be so frustrated assembling complex castings until I realized they're rarely perfect. Most need a lot of fudging to get them to fit. So you try to fit the most visible parts of the model and hide the less-than-ideal joints. Epoxy Putty rules!
@@RobertTolone I just started to sculpt my own little figurines. And I will need to cast 2 half ready parts and then continue working on those before I get the final figurine for the mold making. When I saw your video today I right away put Epoxy Putty in my Amazon basket. :-D
I am sitting in Sheer Amazement. I saw the original piece and instantly thought that this was one of those "This is why you can't cast this" videos. So to see the end result... I commend you Sir.
This was fantastic! Thanks for sharing. I learned a lot. Have you done a video of having a finished piece made of silicone instead of resin? Maybe using a plaster mold? Or silicone mold. .. such as a rubber puppet like Yoda or a stop motion figurine?
Not yet, but I'm sure one will come along soon. My projects are sent in by viewers and I try to pick ones that have challenges I haven't done on the channel before.
Wow!! That sure was complex! So much information to comprehend and they came out so good! If it was me doing it, it would of just been a set of dentures!🤣 Learned something new every time, and it sure help to know what your doing and how to do it. Definitely helps to have the right tool(s) for the job. I was pretty amazed how it came out and the color of the resin, being so dark thinking to myself, how you get such a light color from that when it so dark? I didn’t think it would be so light after it cured. Nailed it!
It’s really tricky to mix resin colors. The resin color is totally different after it cures. At least it is with the resin system I use. That may not be true with others.
This one really was near and dear to my heart. I really didn't realize how many members there are in the tyrannosauridae. As I have worked on this I've been been reading and watching videos on the evolution or tyrannosaurs. It's been a lot of fun. If you come across any more fun fossils let me know!
I seriously love your videos. The whole cut mold was an impossibility until I started watching your videos. This one especially shows that it can be done no matter how complex. Just amazing. I’ve got a bunch of stuff modeled in Shapr3D and Nomad and am ready to print and cast thanks to you. Thank you so much and please keep up the good work!
That's the Rookie, still in his first season. The old war horse at home awaits my return. I bought them maybe 30 years apart and they are identical! If it ain't broke don't fix it.
Everything can be done with hand tools. It just takes more time and skill. One of my favorite channels is Paul Sellers. He is an English woodworker who builds everything with hand tools. He's a phenomenal craftsman!
@@annekabrimhall1059 Absolutely it can! Work with whatever you have available to you. cardboard, hot melt glue and 2 inch wide packing tape. Use the tape instead of beeswax to coat the cardboard.
Exceptional work, Robert! Just stupendously wonderful. Thank you ever so much! You underscored the importance of creating "cradles" for the casting process - and I agree. That said, I have sometimes wondered why people don't just effectively re-use the boxes which were originally used to create the mold the first place - (with a few modifications, of course) It seems like you could simply cut-back the joined edges of the original molding box (so the faces don't touch l and then add some "mid-line" ridges ("fins") on the broadsides of those boards. It seems like creating the mold box and then creating a cradle is doing double-work. Would such an approach fail to keep all the parting lines nice & snug?
Someone else asked this as well so I'll copy my answer here: The cases that were used to pour the rubber we're not designed to distribute the rubber band forces or to hold the mold in the correct position. They were designed to pour rubber. If you look at how different they are you will see why the mold cases would not work. A case is not the same thing as a cradle.
Thanks so much! Really great job and good advice. The only thing I'll offer, because you said you didn't have much experience with it, is to be careful with that thin CA. I think using the kicker first is good because otherwise it can run quickly and end up sticking you to your part before you know it.
Can You make a video about the tools you use in your projects ? I mean rubber, waxer, wax itself, etc.. Maybe some links if you don't have time. Thanks and have a sweet day.
I don't have a woodshop either. I use hobby wood from Michael's. The pieces are 3 feet long, by 4 inches wide, by 1/8 inch thick. I use a hacksaw to cut pieces to size. Hope that helps!
Speed. Once the molds are made you can make 2-3 castings per hour oer mold cavity. I am considering a return to lost wax casting of metals. I haven't done that since I was in high school but it was a lot of fun. I'm also interested in doing 3D printing direct to metal casting. But we have only really gotten started with resin casting; it's not like I'm running out of things to do.
Because the main reason you use a pressure pot is to suppress foaming which happens when the urethane resin absorbs moisture from the air. Vacuum would only make that worse.
There is always the possibility of damaging a model when molding it. If you are molding something precious which must be preserved (like historical objects) great care must be taken. Since I mostly sculpt in wax I routinely break the models. But the wax sculpture is just a step in the process. For me the casting is the finished object. So I don’t really care if I break models. I would much rather have a mold which produces clean castings than deal with the parting lines in a two part mold. But you must adapt your methods to whatever your situation is. It may be that for you, a two part mold is the only way to go.
Such a lot of effort. First make formwork. Then cast a mold. Then cut a mold. And only then cast a model. However it is not finished yet and you need polish them... Even though there are lack of some details. But as you said in 1st part those original models were just 3d printed.
This was very helpful but im still not sure ill be able to make a mold for toy monster trucks. The middle piece is...ummm...i guess you could describe it as a cage almost. I guess I wont know until I try.🤞
Bob, do you take on projects/ jobs at the moment? If so how can I get in touch with you to have you make a mold from my item. Everyone has told me it is impossible but seeing this video assures me that it is in fact possible and I'd be honored if you would help me with it🙏💙💜
If you are using wax instead of PLA or resin for your master it is much more fragile. Would it be ok to cut the mold in pieces to make it less stressful to get the model out?
I never cut molds into pieces because it is so much harder to reassemble them. That's why they're called one-piece cut molds. All of my sculptures are done in wax (except 3D prints) and it is very common for me to break them when cutting the mold. The wax models just go into the archives anyway. The resins are the finished product.
I want to make a mold from a leather surface but I have some cure inhibition at some places Do you know what kind of primer I need to make it work? Thanks!!!!!!!
The only way I know to figure it out is to do some tests. I would try various sealers or primers on small pieces of the leather to find one that works. Anything you apply to the surface will modify the look of the leather so that would be a major consideration. But I would be inclined to start with melted beeswax because it is an effective coating that is friendly to silicone rubber.
I'll suggest some words: brilliant, extraordinary, fabulous, impressive... 😀😀😀 Just kidding. As old Ronald Reagan used to say, "It's better to be lucky than good."
Fantastic job on the castings and assembly, Mr. Tolone. I'm wondering, did you end up recasting the piece that had bubbles in the teeth? I'm just getting back into mold making and casting after about 15 years, and your videos are a big inspiration.
Yes, urethane resins turn yellow over time. Sometimes they do it really fast! Direct sun is the best way to speed up the process. That’s why I always paint my castings or just accept the fact that they are going to change color. There are some raisins which are considered to be UV stable. But you would really have to test to see if they work for you.
Bumping, shaking, rocking and rolling FOLLOWED BY immersion in a pressure pot. Vibrating by itself won’t reliably get it done. And proper venting is the most important thing of all.
I'm not a product review channel and I always make it clear that I'm not qualified to compare one product over another. I'm also not commited or obligated to any one product. If Glu Boost wants to send me some product I'll use it. I've always used Zap CA. But I'll try anything!
@@RobertTolone free stuff is free stuff. 👍 but glu boost had a big push into the pen turning and finishing hobby but they have some sort of system for filling cracks like your joint lines. I think they are big in the guitar repair biz.
It looks like you were casting from a 3D printed part. Why? I LOVE making molds and recasting things, but if the things you're casting is already digitized, and in an STL format that you can just print...why recast? I used to do this same thing. Then I realized the amount of time effort and money it takes to mold and cast the item is FAR greater than queuing about more parts. Especially with monochrome screens now, I can print 50 of one thing on one build plate in a couple hours at a 16th the price. No cleanup, no part lines etc. The only things I mold now are objects I can't 3D print.
@@petterandersson7429 oh yeah, i agree, i think he could just swap the clear front for a thin wood panel and add whatever grips and holders to the exterior. Unless you wanted specific mold making box vs resin pouring box.
The cases that were used to pour the rubber we're not designed to distribute the rubber band forces or to hold the mold in the correct position. They were designed to pour rubber. If you look at how different they are you will see why the mold cases would not work. A case is not the same thing as a cradle.
@@RobertTolone ok thanx for the reply. I thought they would make a snug fit. Especialy if you were using a tapered cup style. Or made the rubber pour mold tapered so it would work as a cradle. But if a cradle is better...OK.!!! Cheers.
Oh... I actually didn't realize that the jagged cuts should not be jagged all the way down to the part! :) Glad I saw this video! (Even though my first molds worked anyway :) )
as someone who is starting to venture into resin casting and rubber molding these videos are invaluable, instant subscribe from me
Glad you find my videos helpful!
The 'Bob Ross' of 3D art. "Let's put some happy little sticky wax there." Yet another great series! Keep 'em coming!
😄
Just need the 'happy little bubbles' and we'll be laughing (bubbles are no laughing matter!!)
I found myself cheering when the resin came up the vents!
Me too, it's always such a relief! Because if it doesn't something has gone horribly wrong.
That is a crazy complex piece to make a mold of! Thank you for sharing your process of approaching something with so many parts and holes to work around.
It was a fun project for sure. Glad you enjoyed it.
Thanks Bob, been waiting for this video, with anticipation, all week. I've been following you for nearly a year now and I learn something new every week. Yours are the best instructional videos on UA-cam. Thank You, Regards Jez
Thanks so much Jez. I really appreciate you for watching and commenting,.
Yes indeed
Another great video. Thank you
You absolute madman! I can't believe you pulled it off! This is beyond impressive, and I thank you for sharing it with us!
A little bit of luck goes a long way! Thanks for watching Wil.
Now those are some crazy cuts Robert but the parts came out great! Even "professional" injection molded model kits require some clean up and gap filling at times. Well done on another tutorial. Cheers
Thanks Mark!
I can't get over how incredibly informative you are Rob! Love your videos!
I recently discovered your channel and i immediately fell in love with it! I love to listen to you, and the amount of valuable advice you give is priceless! Greetings from Poland, Robert.
Glad you find the channel useful! Thanks for watching.
Amazing job as always. You set the standard for how this craft should be done. Thanks for continuing to share your work.
Thanks Matt!
Those were pretty complex models to cast... really mesmerizing to see how you deal with them... I already told you, but, it is fantastic just seeing how much you love what you do.
Slap enough vents on and you can cast almost anything! Seriously, it all comes down to position in space and getting the air out. If you get those two things right the mold fills up just like a glass of water.
Very complex mold. Congratulations, you are a master.
A master is someone who never stops learning. That is what I strive towards. Thanks for your nice words!
Those are just crazy for 1-piece molds! I'd don't think I have the knowhow, or the stones frankly, to even attempt it.
Robert . How many castings you can make before this complex molds start to fail. If there are very detail and thin sections with intrincated forms. 🌺🌺 I love this video once again its a challenge
10 probably, maybe 15 - but by then it will be breaking down.
Wonderful Instructional Video, Thank you so very much Bob
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for your nice comment.
Fantastic work with that extremely complex figure Mr Tolone, God bless you !!
Thanks Alberto!
Amazing work, thank you so much for taking on this project! Those casts came out exceptionally well
It was a great fun projects to do and I learned a lot in the process. Who knew there were so many members of the Tyrannosauridae family! Move over T-Rex, Daspletosaurus rules!
Thanks for sending in the project. Hit me up anytime you run across more cool fossils.
Early release date today. Great color on bone! The molds are crazy!
Now That’s cool, and I have a hard time casting a golf ball lol thanks for the videos, your a wealth of knowledge !
wow Robert, this skull was such an intimidating prospect to mold, and you did such a good job! I'm learning more about mold making from watching your videos than I have in years.
Great job. I must admit, I used a lot of rubber bands around my mold. I ended up with exactly what you said would happen. Damned if I could figure out what I did wrong. Now I know. When I pour the next batch of resin, I’m definitely going to build wooden cradles to get better pressure. Thanks for drumming the wood cradle support into my head.
Richard, you wouldn't believe how many years it took me to figure that out.
Amazing! Gives me faith I might be able, with practice, to make the piece I want to. Thanks! Your great.
Opening molds is like Christmas! These are some awesome parts to work with. I learned about cradles from the vid very good idea!
It was pretty interesting to see a casting be separated into multiple parts and put into on piece together again. It's actually more work than one would think, if you ain't into mold making and casting. Lovely video, I enjoyed it a lot.
Couldn't agree more! I used to be so frustrated assembling complex castings until I realized they're rarely perfect. Most need a lot of fudging to get them to fit. So you try to fit the most visible parts of the model and hide the less-than-ideal joints. Epoxy Putty rules!
@@RobertTolone I just started to sculpt my own little figurines. And I will need to cast 2 half ready parts and then continue working on those before I get the final figurine for the mold making. When I saw your video today I right away put Epoxy Putty in my Amazon basket. :-D
I am sitting in Sheer Amazement. I saw the original piece and instantly thought that this was one of those "This is why you can't cast this" videos. So to see the end result... I commend you Sir.
Omg! Companies are sending you product? This is great!
Yes! Come on Apple, Tesla, Gulfstream... I'm open for all donations! 😂😂😂
Awesome vid and moulds 👍👍👍👍❤️🙏🏻
Wow - I'm impressed! And I love how enthusiastic you are about molding and casting. :)
This was fantastic! Thanks for sharing. I learned a lot. Have you done a video of having a finished piece made of silicone instead of resin? Maybe using a plaster mold? Or silicone mold. .. such as a rubber puppet like Yoda or a stop motion figurine?
Not yet, but I'm sure one will come along soon. My projects are sent in by viewers and I try to pick ones that have challenges I haven't done on the channel before.
You make it seem so simple!!
Wow!! That sure was complex! So much information to comprehend and they came out so good! If it was me doing it, it would of just been a set of dentures!🤣 Learned something new every time, and it sure help to know what your doing and how to do it. Definitely helps to have the right tool(s) for the job. I was pretty amazed how it came out and the color of the resin, being so dark thinking to myself, how you get such a light color from that when it so dark? I didn’t think it would be so light after it cured. Nailed it!
It’s really tricky to mix resin colors. The resin color is totally different after it cures. At least it is with the resin system I use. That may not be true with others.
great job Robert, on the molds, the cast, the result *and* the videos
Thanks! I was pleased that they came out well.
excellent job
Thanks for showing the Apoxie Sculpt on this for the gaps and bubbles. I was just looking into getting some for that very reason.
Apoxie Sculpt and Magic Sculpt are basically identical products. I love them both.
Excellent job! That is called pefection
This one really was near and dear to my heart. I really didn't realize how many members there are in the tyrannosauridae. As I have worked on this I've been been reading and watching videos on the evolution or tyrannosaurs. It's been a lot of fun. If you come across any more fun fossils let me know!
I seriously love your videos. The whole cut mold was an impossibility until I started watching your videos. This one especially shows that it can be done no matter how complex. Just amazing.
I’ve got a bunch of stuff modeled in Shapr3D and Nomad and am ready to print and cast thanks to you.
Thank you so much and please keep up the good work!
Glad my videos are helpful! Thanks for watching.
Thank you for sharing that amazing knowledge Robert
Absolutely amazing!
Awesome!
Great video Robert! Admiring the sparkly new scale!
That's the Rookie, still in his first season. The old war horse at home awaits my return. I bought them maybe 30 years apart and they are identical!
If it ain't broke don't fix it.
amazing~~ thank u
I love your rubber saving molds! Is there a way to do that if you don’t have a saw and a drill?
Everything can be done with hand tools. It just takes more time and skill. One of my favorite channels is Paul Sellers. He is an English woodworker who builds everything with hand tools. He's a phenomenal craftsman!
@@RobertTolone so it can’t be done with cardboard and hot glue? That’s what’s available to me
@@annekabrimhall1059 Absolutely it can! Work with whatever you have available to you. cardboard, hot melt glue and 2 inch wide packing tape. Use the tape instead of beeswax to coat the cardboard.
I love how well you teach and how well you make it entertained... This is also like a new world for me, amazing stuff :0
Thanks Vic!
Great video!
Thanks Emily!
Exceptional work, Robert! Just stupendously wonderful. Thank you ever so much!
You underscored the importance of creating "cradles" for the casting process - and I agree. That said, I have sometimes wondered why people don't just effectively re-use the boxes which were originally used to create the mold the first place - (with a few modifications, of course) It seems like you could simply cut-back the joined edges of the original molding box (so the faces don't touch l and then add some "mid-line" ridges ("fins") on the broadsides of those boards.
It seems like creating the mold box and then creating a cradle is doing double-work.
Would such an approach fail to keep all the parting lines nice & snug?
Someone else asked this as well so I'll copy my answer here:
The cases that were used to pour the rubber we're not designed to distribute the rubber band forces or to hold the mold in the correct position. They were designed to pour rubber. If you look at how different they are you will see why the mold cases would not work. A case is not the same thing as a cradle.
Thanks for this content! So wholesome and informative. :)
Thanks so much! Really great job and good advice. The only thing I'll offer, because you said you didn't have much experience with it, is to be careful with that thin CA. I think using the kicker first is good because otherwise it can run quickly and end up sticking you to your part before you know it.
Haha, you’re no kidding Rob! I cut the part out where I stuck my finger to the skull. Always good to have some CA dissolver on hand!
Absolutely amazing! Master work🤘🏻
Thank you Sergey! Cheers!
Thank you always for the info in your videos! Your production is incredible and always enjoyable to watch :) Great bone colour on those first pours!
Lucked out on the color! Resin tinting is always a crap shoot.
Can You make a video about the tools you use in your projects ? I mean rubber, waxer, wax itself, etc.. Maybe some links if you don't have time. Thanks and have a sweet day.
There is a link to a .PDF list of my suppliers in the description of this video.
So now it's Mr Toblerone ??? 🤣 Two very interesting videos Bob . Excellent work as usual .
Thanks Glen. The candy bar is an old family joke.
Супер гуд!!!
I don't have a wood shop. Do you think foamcore is stiff enough to replace the wood in the casting cradles?
Yes, or even box cardboard. Use whatever works for you and the tools you have.
I don't have a woodshop either. I use hobby wood from Michael's. The pieces are 3 feet long, by 4 inches wide, by 1/8 inch thick. I use a hacksaw to cut pieces to size. Hope that helps!
astounding Rob another bonza
Hey thanks Damian!
1:35. “Ah, so…Robert san, heats on, wax off”
Master !
Now this this is using 110% of the brain
crazy job, very well done. I just don't get why not stick with 3D printing in the first place?
What is the advantage of this vs 3d printing wih resin? Impressive work, do you dabble with metal casting at all?
Speed. Once the molds are made you can make 2-3 castings per hour oer mold cavity. I am considering a return to lost wax casting of metals. I haven't done that since I was in high school but it was a lot of fun. I'm also interested in doing 3D printing direct to metal casting. But we have only really gotten started with resin casting; it's not like I'm running out of things to do.
@@RobertTolone makes sense, that is quite faster for repeatability. Well you got another subscriber. Nice work.
How would you suggest making casts of a doubloon? A little larger than a dime and about as thick as a quarter.
Wow!
When curing moulds, why do you use a pressure vessel instead of a vacuum vessel.?.?
Because the main reason you use a pressure pot is to suppress foaming which happens when the urethane resin absorbs moisture from the air. Vacuum would only make that worse.
New subscriber here,Is there clear silicone Rubber so you can see through the mold if the resin is going to all the corners?
Was the funnels made from a mold?
Have you ever made a 2 part mold?
I find with a single pour mold can damage the original as you cut it out.
There is always the possibility of damaging a model when molding it. If you are molding something precious which must be preserved (like historical objects) great care must be taken. Since I mostly sculpt in wax I routinely break the models. But the wax sculpture is just a step in the process. For me the casting is the finished object. So I don’t really care if I break models. I would much rather have a mold which produces clean castings than deal with the parting lines in a two part mold. But you must adapt your methods to whatever your situation is. It may be that for you, a two part mold is the only way to go.
Such a lot of effort. First make formwork. Then cast a mold. Then cut a mold. And only then cast a model. However it is not finished yet and you need polish them... Even though there are lack of some details. But as you said in 1st part those original models were just 3d printed.
This was very helpful but im still not sure ill be able to make a mold for toy monster trucks. The middle piece is...ummm...i guess you could describe it as a cage almost. I guess I wont know until I try.🤞
I like to imagine that Saul Goodman is talking while I watch your videos
how do you store your CA Super Glue, from Starbond?
Parting lines that look like what? :D
Bob, do you take on projects/ jobs at the moment? If so how can I get in touch with you to have you make a mold from my item. Everyone has told me it is impossible but seeing this video assures me that it is in fact possible and I'd be honored if you would help me with it🙏💙💜
Currently I am only doing projects on my channel. If you have any interest in submitting your project for that send pics to me roberttolone@yahoo.com
If you are using wax instead of PLA or resin for your master it is much more fragile. Would it be ok to cut the mold in pieces to make it less stressful to get the model out?
I never cut molds into pieces because it is so much harder to reassemble them. That's why they're called one-piece cut molds. All of my sculptures are done in wax (except 3D prints) and it is very common for me to break them when cutting the mold. The wax models just go into the archives anyway. The resins are the finished product.
I want to make a mold from a leather surface but I have some cure inhibition at some places Do you know what kind of primer I need to make it work? Thanks!!!!!!!
The only way I know to figure it out is to do some tests. I would try various sealers or primers on small pieces of the leather to find one that works. Anything you apply to the surface will modify the look of the leather so that would be a major consideration. But I would be inclined to start with melted beeswax because it is an effective coating that is friendly to silicone rubber.
Didn’t expect that I would get an answere so quick thanks a lot!!
I have no words. I are gobsmacked.
I'll suggest some words: brilliant, extraordinary, fabulous, impressive... 😀😀😀
Just kidding.
As old Ronald Reagan used to say, "It's better to be lucky than good."
What is the best for jewelry
What is the best cilicon for jewelry
What material are you casting in your molds?
Sanding twigs? Really? Where do you get those?
I bought them from Rockler woodworking supply.
What a cool old dude
Cool, not so much. But the other part you got right.
@@RobertTolone Don't tell me how to feel
Wax on wax off 😆🤣
they don't make a clear rubber yet?
Yes, they do.
Fantastic job on the castings and assembly, Mr. Tolone. I'm wondering, did you end up recasting the piece that had bubbles in the teeth?
I'm just getting back into mold making and casting after about 15 years, and your videos are a big inspiration.
I made additional castings but I salvaged that part by carving down the teeth enough to resharpen them..
Anyone else have issues when molding with white dye it turning yellow over the following week if near the sun ?
Yes, urethane resins turn yellow over time. Sometimes they do it really fast! Direct sun is the best way to speed up the process. That’s why I always paint my castings or just accept the fact that they are going to change color. There are some raisins which are considered to be UV stable. But you would really have to test to see if they work for you.
"i don't vibrate the molds, doesn't work"
"bump and shake the molds to help dislodge bubbles"
Bumping, shaking, rocking and rolling FOLLOWED BY immersion in a pressure pot. Vibrating by itself won’t reliably get it done. And proper venting is the most important thing of all.
im still bitter i had to wait a week xD
I want too make a cilicon for jewelry
But why cast anything if it can already be 3d printed?
You ask if it’s possible.
For you? Yes.
I hear Glu Boost CA glue is way better than Staybond and you should use that. 👍
.
.
.
🤫 maybe Glu Boost will see this and send you some free stuff. 😉
I'm not a product review channel and I always make it clear that I'm not qualified to compare one product over another. I'm also not commited or obligated to any one product. If Glu Boost wants to send me some product I'll use it. I've always used Zap CA. But I'll try anything!
@@RobertTolone free stuff is free stuff. 👍
but glu boost had a big push into the pen turning and finishing hobby but they have some sort of system for filling cracks like your joint lines. I think they are big in the guitar repair biz.
@@chartle1 Maybe I should look into it. Thanks Cliff!
It looks like you were casting from a 3D printed part. Why? I LOVE making molds and recasting things, but if the things you're casting is already digitized, and in an STL format that you can just print...why recast? I used to do this same thing. Then I realized the amount of time effort and money it takes to mold and cast the item is FAR greater than queuing about more parts. Especially with monochrome screens now, I can print 50 of one thing on one build plate in a couple hours at a 16th the price. No cleanup, no part lines etc.
The only things I mold now are objects I can't 3D print.
Hello. Why don't you just use the molds from which they came from?
there are no molds, these were sent from a museum.
@@xtonybaloneyx i ment the boxes you made to pour the rubber. Wouldn't they provide a snug fit?
@@petterandersson7429 oh yeah, i agree, i think he could just swap the clear front for a thin wood panel and add whatever grips and holders to the exterior. Unless you wanted specific mold making box vs resin pouring box.
The cases that were used to pour the rubber we're not designed to distribute the rubber band forces or to hold the mold in the correct position. They were designed to pour rubber. If you look at how different they are you will see why the mold cases would not work. A case is not the same thing as a cradle.
@@RobertTolone ok thanx for the reply. I thought they would make a snug fit. Especialy if you were using a tapered cup style. Or made the rubber pour mold tapered so it would work as a cradle. But if a cradle is better...OK.!!! Cheers.
laughs in stereolithography*
Absolutely Amazing!
Thanks for watching berzerker!