Molding & Casting Small Urethane Resin Parts with two part silicone molds
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- Опубліковано 26 вер 2024
- How to copy a simple 3D object. Create a two part silicone mold then cast a resin part into the silicone mold to make a duplicate copy part of the original.
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Nice work again Eric. Showing the fails with the success is something missing in many of the tutorials out there. It's a great way to learn how and why things go wrong, and how to avoid it again in the future. An interesting thing we've found with WC-85DM rigid clear polyurethane when it comes to moisture sensitivity; you can avoid moisture bubbles if you cast into a heated mold (around 120F/50C) at ambient pressure (no pressure tank) OR simply pressure cast it. You got the benefit of both by pressure casting with heat, so you can create bubble-free parts faster and with much better "green strength" upon demold compared to a room-temp cure. Keep up the good work!
I really appreciate you showing the failed attempts because I'm currently struggling with a project and my fails are killing my motivation to keep trying. So, seeing a video where someone else is failing abit and still trying is inspiring.
I LOVE that you show the fails, it helps us so damn much in learning the process.
Yes, it's nice to know even pro's make mistakes.
Yup, all the time, failure is the gateway to success
Thank you for showing us when things go wrong. Because things do go wrong. It’s good to show that even professionals encounter issues so that beginners do not get discouraged when things go wrong.
Embrace your failures you should, the path of wisdom it will lead
I love this. Making mistakes is the key part of learning. I'm glad you are showing us your learning process. I fail all the time, learn from my mistakes, wipe my tears and try again.
Don't give up, keep trying until you succeed
Thank you once again Master for teaching your know-how, for showing possible mistakes and your desire to continue, showing that he who persists wins. A huge hug
I think it was Da Vinci who said that a true artist makes their own tools. Looking at what you have in your shop, you are a true artist sir.
Thanks
Legos are best for infinite mold boxes and are reusable.
I love my lego moulding boxes!
Thanks for the tip.
@@24-Card ⚠️ God has said in the Quran:
🔵 { O mankind, worship your Lord, who created you and those before you, that you may become righteous - ( 2:21 )
🔴 [He] who made for you the earth a bed [spread out] and the sky a ceiling and sent down from the sky, rain and brought forth thereby fruits as provision for you. So do not attribute to Allah equals while you know [that there is nothing similar to Him]. ( 2:22 )
🔵 And if you are in doubt about what We have sent down upon Our Servant [Muhammad], then produce a surah the like thereof and call upon your witnesses other than Allah, if you should be truthful. ( 2:23 )
🔴 But if you do not - and you will never be able to - then fear the Fire, whose fuel is men and stones, prepared for the disbelievers.( 2:24 )
🔵 And give good tidings to those who believe and do righteous deeds that they will have gardens [in Paradise] beneath which rivers flow. Whenever they are provided with a provision of fruit therefrom, they will say, "This is what we were provided with before." And it is given to them in likeness. And they will have therein purified spouses, and they will abide therein eternally. ( 2:25 )
⚠️ Quran
We’ll done! I’ve played your other videos on small part casting a million times. I’ve learned a ton from ya, thanks for making these videos!
Your welcome
How interesting that you made a video about this. I'm ordering some urethane resin and casting some parts. And even going to use fiberglass powder as a filler.
Even bought syringes
Really appreciate guys like you sharing the knowledge 🙏. I 3d print a lot.. I’m wondering what your views are from small scale perspective?… clearly there would be a lot of time in cad for me to replicate these parts and with potentially not the strength in a single cast product. Just really interesting your perspective and I’m so pleased I found this Real gem… the reality of yes some fail even with best intentions they still go boom pleased you kept them in 💯🙏👌🏻
Great tip for getting deep blacks
Love your technique. Gave me some ideas I never thought of .
Very good, and great to see that it doesn't always work first time!
Awesome. I liked you showing the failure part since we learn a lot from the work around.
Thank you for showing the hurdles!
I really appreciate the attention to detail and the workplace organisation, it shows a great deal of dedication to the art by having the workspace be very "purpose built" and not just _stuff_ lying around.
I learn so much more from the fails than just the success alone.
To succeed you have to fail a bunch
It is really valuable and nice that you add the mistakes you made in production to the video. Well done, you are doing a super job.
Dude you have a fantastic voice! Most maker/geek videos have, well... A geeky sounding person narrating the thing. You sound like a rock star. Good content! You're editing is great coz you speed up at exactly the boring parts and slow down exactly where I want to pay attention. Earned a sub from me
Thanks 😊
from me too
I have been trying fore weeks to find the answer to making a mold from a Mustang logo. I am TRHRILLED to have come across this video. I will be watching it several more times while I attempt that mold of the little "Pony" . I subscribed, because I just know I'm gonna finds lots of answers!
😊
Excellent
Thank you for keeping the fails in there!
Wow I didn't know you could buy a heater for your vacuum chamber I'm just learning now taking notes for when I do my first pour. Appreciate you and your work.
Thanks, best of luck.
I really enjoy when ı ve watched
Thank you for the classy demonstration of "adapt and overcome" or perhaps, as my father's generation might have said, "no use crying over spilt milk"
👍
Who needs "split" milk anyway? 😄
@@taunteratwill1787 I'm sorry, I don't know what you're referring to. 😉
You are brilliant. Wish you were my friend. Love this vid so much. Thank you.
I did this for a few years. We made a lot of toys as well as some pieces for the Keurig coffee machines. Worst mistake i ever had happen was while pouring a few Chewbacca figures for Hasbro, the resin we used was mislabeled and instead of part a mixing with part B, the same material was in both 5 gallon containers. The next morning, after opening all the pressure pots, i opened up the first mold to find thick gooey resin pouring everywhere. And it took forever to clean all those molds. Chewbacca has a lot of hairlike features that creates a LOT of area to wash out!!!!
Funny story
I've never seen this method of high pouring resin from an empty tube. Very interesting and I'll have to try it.
Love it! I'd like to make some custom casings for electronics, wanted to get a view on how to make it happen. These tutorials rock. I'm an art student at a science university... I'm sure someone has a pressure pot they'll let me use, haha.
This was a very cool and informative video!
wow good work. the details of explanation was great. the fail video show us even experience person sometimes cannot get the results in the first try. thats give me motivation to try in someday.thanks again for the video.
You just earned a new subscriber!
kudos to you... amazing details shows real artistry /\
I like your channel because you do not mess around... even show me the mistakes. This is important, because how otherwise can I know what to avoid. Silicone casting is a seriously expensive thing to do. Nothing simple about it. Just got an SLA printer and wasted a few hundred dollars of resin already. Same with the silicone. All my 3D printed parts do not cast in silicone... the silicone stays liquid in places. I suspect that this is the Isopropanol entering the SLA resin. I will try the BJB WC85dm. I am very disappointed with some other PU resin I got.
My point is... this is not easy.
Interesting use of golf tees to use as a sprue and venting holes. For the pouring vent, definitely use an actual funnel so it will be less mess and the pour sprue will be easier to remove.
The funnel shank should be the same diameter as the cental shank of the tee
Nice.. specially you showed... failure as well
Thank you for such an informative video on casting such small parts, including the issues you've found. I really need to make parts roughly the same size, if not smaller. Do you think it would be possible to do this without the pressure/temperature chamber that you used on your video? If so, would there be any problems I might face not using it. (some of my parts will be roughly 2mm thickness.) again, thank you for a great video.
Great video! Thanks!
Again wonderful video Eric! That reaction between ckear and opaque silicon was similar to my problem trying to make fake polyester resin gems: never cured, always sticky
Quite nice copys.
Thanks
Awesome video. Never give up. Never surrender. Parts look great. Mahalo for sharing! : )
your casting/ resin series rocks😃 I would like to see a version of your apple power adapter made in resin using your 3dp parts. thanks
good evening ... I'm not using my youtube account ... my name is ROBERTO HAAR until I fix it ... but I always do research and see new projects ... I'll try to learn ... despite the language barrier ... thank you very much
You showed the second pour was vacuumed to remove the bubbles. Did you do the same to the firstpour?
Nice one ❤❤❤
I have a resin 3d printer. I'm considering printing a custom mold box, as well as printing the sprues directly onto the part I'll be making a cast of. Would you recommend this? do you think I'll have trouble prying the two silicone halves apart if the sprues are fastened to the molded piece? great video btw I love watching your process. For context I'm making my own roller skate wheels and will be urethane resin casting in the silicone mold in a pressure chamber
*Quick question from a newb, how come one uses 60psi positive pressure in curing the parts and not vacuum?*
bravo!!nice worK!!!
I was gifted a floor squeegee head that screws onto the end of a broomstick. Unfortunately, its (presumably) European threads are incompatible with the (presumably) Acme threads on my North-American broom handles. I was thinking of 3D-printing a functional adapter but the thought of modelling a tapered thread fills me total dread, whereas the thought of making a mold sounds like fun.
How would you go about making a functional thread adapter from the existing female thread on the squeegee head? How should I create the mold? What resin should I cast?
I remember the first time I used Tin cure on Platinum silicone, ALSO NOTE: the old school Sulphur based clay will cause this same reaction with Platinum cure.
I miss the old black tuffy days..........
Don't know if it's been mentioned already, but legos make excellent molding boxes.
Thx a lot, very revealer video, I´m now your new follower, waiting for more tips & tricks
This is a minor point but if you laser cut L profiles out of the wood, you would be left with small vertical seams but it would use a tiny amount of the wood material
Thanks 👍
Small idea ... place a transparent label with a text which identify a design (like e.g. QR code) on the top/side/bottom of a mold vessel.
I'm wanting to make a stand for a tattoo pen machine out of resin. I need to make a silicone mold of the tattoo pen. What should I cover it with to protect it from damage?
thanks for sharing. Need to copy keyboard parts of an old Atari 800 and got some ideas how to do it
Best of luck with your project, tag me on social media once the parts are finished.
Hello. Thanks a lot for this great video. I don't find liquid naphta on the internet. Would you have a name or link to suggest? Thanks.
good
I use a removable plug inside parts that have thick mold cores. Once the plastic plug is removed, the silicone mold can be folded inwards away from the part to extract the fresh cast part. Remember to replace the plastic plug before casting the next part.
Yup, that should work well! I assume you need a bit of mold release on the plug for that to work
@@EricStrebel
Yes. Release is a must. I use spray on silicone.
I've been watching your videos for a couple of weeks now and I am a new sub to your channel. I have learnt some great techniques, thanks for showing what you do. As for the cardboard you use in the laser cutter, is that special craft cardboard or similar? Or is it just normal cardboard from boxes etc? Where do you get it? It looks very handy.
Just regular cardboard chip board the back of drawing pads anything should work
What did you use to clean off the uncured silicone?
can u make aluminium mould for this instead of silicon, so we can use plastic injector?
Yes of course that is how volume production works
You did a great job and it requires a lot of handcrafting skills to do those casts, but would it not be much easier to buy and use a resin 3D printer? The partquality you can produce with them is crazy good.
Nope, not really strong enough
@@EricStrebel This entirely depends on the resin you use just like with casting. I know there are resins available from Formlabs that have a strength north of 70N/mm^2 and have good impact energy absorption so they are not brittle. This allows for highly funtional parts. What do you need the parts for that requires the use of Urethane Resin?
Color, strength, heat resistance, numerous factors, someday we will have those capabilities with printed parts, plus who is gonna model these crappy little parts with the correct detail?
How much do u charge need some mirrors made for a jada toys rc roller and some rims
Why do you degas the silicone befor pouring? couldn't you degas it in the mold? same for the resin. thanks for your content!
Good question, you wouldn't do yes the silicone because you could ruin your master, and you wouldn't degass your resin once it's in the mold because you wouldn't get a good part and you could easily trap bubbles.
Your channel is great! I managed to create a mold and duplicate for a small piece of an old Batman figurine I've had since I was 4.
There is another piece I want to mold and cast but have no idea how to approach, it is a hollow, 5-sided box. The top side has a round hole and the other four have slots that go from the middle right down to the bottom of said box.
will probably have to split in half and do in two parts
I have to create a part. Do you know anyone who can create rubber part for me?
@amoldjoshi1234 www.botzen.com please attach a project pdf. overview document with you .step file
platinum silicone will not cure properly on tincure silicone mold part , i try long time ago and is a mess hahaha
Awesome bro!
Another great video, Eric. When you describe your mold release formula as vaseline thinned with naptha, 70/30, do you mean 70% vaseline, or 30%? And, by weight or volume?
70% naptha 30% Vaseline
@@EricStrebel Weight or volume?
Well I've never weighed it so I guess volume I just sort of eyeball it
If you try it, you'll know.
@@EricStrebel if I don't have naptha, do you think mineral spirits would work as well?
Awesome job Eric - Learned a lot. I need to make a part for my electric scooter and so I'll give it a try. I'll need to invest in a vacuum chamber and maybe a pressure chamber as well but should be worth it. Question... Is there any benefit to adding extremely fine fiberglass strands to the Urethane resin for extra strength? Thanks
Depends on the results you are after, consult with the resin mfg for best results
@Eric Strebel Will do. Thx
Do you think, Eric, that the Vaseline/naphtha was perhaps the inhibitor for the platinum silicone? I know there is sometimes problems with the tin vs platinum but you say it has not been a prob before. What do you think? Regards, Cam. Thanks for the hard work.
Nope
Awsome work man, i like your key design, could you give me some pointers, on the sizing of the keys, i have currently 6mm and 12mm , is that sufficient or too big,
As long as that sealant and stay together, that's what you need
Very tidy, informative video!
Would it be prudent to de-gas the mold box after pouring (1st & 2nd) silicon also?
Yes, it's a must, just not shown in the vid
Interesting stuff. But I can't help but think that it would have been easier to design and resin 3D print. Still, incredibly informative video. Cheers mate.
Having said that, I have absolutely no idea what 120 degrees Fahrenheit is in centigrade.
Why do you prefer tin cure to platinum cure?
Cures every time
Had the same problem with tin and platinum not playing nice. Really embarrassing infront of a client.
Yeah, I can imagine.
great work. so how durable this molded parts for bending and sun or weathering? please explain, important for me. i need to durable resin for using under sun
Get a UV stable resin
just think if you making only some of copies...it mey be easier to 3d scan and then print 3D...?
I think you could have released the ring from the first mold. Next time try shooting some compressed air inbetween the silicone and the part to break the seal. If that doesn't work, I would have carved out of the a cone/core from the center of the ring. This would have allowed more room for the ID silicone to be pinched and flex which should have given enough wiggle room to remove the part.
Good stuff to try, thanks for the comments, much appreciated
nice! 2:25 noticed you didn’t degas. wasn’t required or did it off camera?
Off camera
What is the final cost for the customer? It seems like a very expensive job
Hello Eric, love your videos. My question is whether neoprene foam rubber tape will stick to silicone rubber when creating silicone molds.
Thank you
Dunno, test it and find out
What is the reason for this technique, when we have resin 3d printers now? I am asking sincerely.
Many reasons actually, molded in color, mold per a specific duromerer, much stronger, more representational of a final product, better surface finish....good question though
Is there a complete manual for this procedure? such as temperature ranges, material mixtures, amount of mixture etc.
Nope, not that I know of
Wouldn't producing 10+ of this kind of small part be WAY easier on a resin 3d printer?
Probably not a very durable part printed in resin
Are these molds strong enough to use dozens of times and what can I use to die the resin
I was looking in "SMALL SCALE " manufacturing.
3D printing = slow
Injection Molding = Fast but more capital intensive.
Resin casting seems a balance end for small scale production or firts few 500 PCs for parts.
Especially for small start ups.
Resin casting is Definitely not viable for anything more than 20 -30 parts in my opinion
Eric, have you ever had an experience with uneven shrinkage of polyurethane? How do you get over it?
No, use good PU
Sometimes uneven shrinkage can come from a lack of vents and "make-up material" in those vents as the material cures and tries to shrink. The vents work in two ways, they channel air out of the mold as the mold fills with urethane, but then those columns of material act as small reservoirs to feed the curing part. That's why fill ports are often sucked in after the part is cured. You want those vents to be roughly similar size to the wall thickness of the part so they don't exotherm too quick and starve the part from make-up material. If you have a very thick walled cast part, you need to make sure there are plenty of vents to avoid this issue or you'll end up with sink-back marks on the part or what we call "worm wood" marks.
Very good advice, explained very well
what can i use to cast hard rubber? any sugestions?
Low shore urethane should work well. BJBenterprises.com they have support as well to pick the right materials
so what is the difference between a pressure pot and a de gas chamber? can I only have one of those, and if so, which one would you recommend to get? sorry, extreme newbie question... I am trying to get into casting for model and miniature making... thank you
Pressure and vacuum
Has anyone here tried pouring the resin into a single-part mold, with the top flush surface exposed? I was thinking of trying a scew-on plastic cap this way (top surface of the cap at the surface of the mold).
Is this method good enough to cast object with thread such as ssd enclosure or something similar?
Yes
You should have been able to slightly blow air into mold and stuck part.
Use a ball needle if needed. Maybe a syringe would work to.
First, silicon mould shrinks then Molded pu shrinks, so finished product is under dimensioned and not fit for accurate parts.
Use quality silicone with no shrink and use pu is not garbage and does not shrink. Problem solved
I only vast platinum silicone and lots of materials inhibit it. But... all my molds are 3d printed
Hello
when you making 3 d print and after you do silicone form -what you use for smooth the surface?
did you paint or what can yse ,because lot of matarials is reacting with silicone and not dry
Please use the correct grammar when asking questions so that we can understand your question..
Does this stuff smell when you use it?
Great content. So do you sell the molds or do you store them? How do you store if you do? Thanks in advance
I store them in a cool basement location. If you want to buy one let me know
Hi, dear sir suggest me great book about product designing.
I'm 3d Artist.