Except that the lore wasn't simple, lol. Ahhh... BIONICLE... nothing else quite like it. I still want to run a BIONICLE or BIONICLE inspired rpg sometime. It'd be really cool to have some really unique and expansive lore like that to be discovered.
I was thinking the same cause i used to have the mcdonalds ones as well as the og black toa (onua i think was his name but i cant spell) and a black bohrok
@@thevikinghermit7151 the line of from 2001 Ended in 2010 then came back as a reboot in 2015 which ended in 2016 but was very different because it used a different building system called ccbs. The orginal building system the used for bioncle was Lego technic. And the standard Lego sets you see everywhere are made of system just so you know :D
@@definitelynotobama6851 You got the takanuva (2003) or maxilos (2007) kit? As those are the only 2 I'm aware of using the takanuva mask, the silver one being specific to Maxilos as the hands (and Vezon's dual mask as shoulders) Own a decent bunch of them, up till the second last gen. Iirc takanuva and makuta were the first ones with the cross peg to keep the masks in place as opposed to the round pegs, which allowed the opponents to knock the masks off.
@@DCG909 Oh, I was wondering why it wasn't gold. I myself have the Takanuva mask of light set. And I still have the DVD of Mask of Light. I might just watch it now. see if it still holds up.
What I love about the Bionicle fans is that despite the two discontinuations, they never give up on making new creations, or on creating parts themselves !
what you're showing here is actually a way a LOT of LEGO Bionicle fans might have a chance to start getting their hands on some parts not only in rare or unproduced colors but also just some rare or hard to find parts. A lot of people always called most of the Bionicle parts uncastable due to their nature but you sir have shown that is not the case
@@Hiihtopipa the masks are too delicate to 3D print and not only avoid filling any of the gaps with support (which you will NEVER get cleaned right) and prevent problems with the fitment on the attachment peg. I think you truly misunderstand how much time and effort has gone into recreating rare and limited edition lego pieces to try and lower the value for fans
@@mariocar0727 yes and silver is one of the least rare colors, there's mata gold which only ran with the original takanuva, clear with metallic flake which also was a single set run, silver which was used frequently in quite a few sets and if memory serves there was maybe a black though don't quote me on that one for certain. Theres frequent need for this mask in all types of colors within the MOC community in every color from green to red, orange, purple, black, etc.
The fact that Robert, here, calls Bionicle "classic" makes me all the more happy to see this video pop up in my recommended feed. Edit: Also, Robert, that part is the Kanohi Avohkii, the Great Mask of Light. To my knowledge, there have been three colors of the official mask: Silver (the one you used for the casting and molding), "dull gold," or "old gold," and a weird sort of sparkly transparent version that would usually take place of the dull/old gold one in certain "special" sets of Takanuva (in which the part originated, along with fellow titan set, "Makuta," which is where the silver version comes from, forming hands)
actually the silver one of "Makuta" and "Takanuva"(stars version) are different colors. On Bricklink for example they're referred to as "Flat Silver" and "Pearl Light Gray"
Casting Bionicle masks is actually what got me into resin casting in the first place! Your videos were very helpful when I was planning how to do it, but I never imagined you would make a video specifically about casting a mask. Maybe I'll come back to casting masks after watching this, I feel freshly inspired. Thanks, Robert!
I don't understand how UA-cam brought me here, but I appreciate your content sir, and hope you make a lot more. It's not often that I see older folks on this platform with a large following, so it's always nice to see. Have a wonderful day, and thank you for casting a piece of my childhood. Lord knows how many of these things I had growing up.
It's a good idea and I will definitely do that. This far, whenever a project comes in that need modification I ask the viewer to make the changes (so I don't have to). But it would be good to do videos about it.
Everthing from the video to the comments is giving me such nostalgic feelings. I can't get rid of the huge grin on my face. Thanks for the good feelings and memories you all unearthed. Today feels like a good day.
I made a mold of this avohki , i used a 2 part box mold , and it came up nice , but with some bubbles and missing spots, now by watching this video i am able to perfect and do better molds , as one of the things i want to do/ acomplish is to cast and be able to replicate all the masks / kanohi and some other Bionicle pieces like armor , weappons and some 3d printed pieces found on thingiverse ( mask of ultimate power, adaptive hau, among others)
This is the best channel about resin casting PERIOD!! I would like to see Robert casting a highly detailed 28mm miniature. It would be great to see how he deals with thin little details and the best way to orient a mold according to the pose of the miniature.
Honestly, I've seen similar flaws to the second attempt on genuine lego parts so that wasn't even a bad run per se. Of course, if you're going through the effort of a custom cast any blemish is a bit of a kick to your pride so I understand going for an even better try, but yeah, really nice work considering the "casting-unfriendliness" of the subject.
UA-cam randomly started recommending your videos to me, not sure what triggered the algorithm but im not mad about it, your videos are therapeutically chill
For that type of object is where I use a syringe, and the results I have had have been excellent, no bubbles, only burr (flash) that if you arrange the parting line well it is not noticeable and it is easy to clean, what I do is that in a two-part mold, I place the vents facing the mold, where they protrude in the solid part of the silicone and not in the part where it cuts and opens, when the pieces come out they look like the plastic pieces in the molds of injection of a factory
Robert, I know how you feel about us chuckle heads injecting molds with resin but in my personal experience; I have had a reasonable amount of success. Especially when casting injection molded parts, such as action figure accessories.
Agreed. I have tried pour casts and cut molds many times cuz everyone thinks they’re “the way”, but they’re wrong (sorry Robert). Injection is the way to go, along with controlled multi-part molds where you can design the part line. God, and the - ~waste~ of using cups and wooden sticks! 🤦🏽 But hey, whatever works for them I guess.
I don't why I got this video recommended. This isn't my thing. But It feels wholesome to see people enjoying (and even feeling nostalgic I think?) the content along with you.
As a screenprinter, I totally resonated with that point about process-inspired design. The design challenges that each medium's limitations present is something that I've learned to embrace over the years. I tend to do my best designing when I have a task that revolves around a set of constraints.
That old-school scale is incredible, haven't seen on of those in a fat minute, you can always tell a craftsman is damn good at what he does when his tools appear older than he does. Been a fan of Bionicle since I was a little kid, so seeing this done was super nostalgic and exciting for me.
i actually smiled when i first saw the balance scale not a "haha funny" smile, but a genuine happy smile just by the looks, and logic of that piece of tech, it feels accurate it's awesome
This is SO interesting! I have done a few rubber molds of miniatures and it is a tricky craft, I often get air bubbles during the mold making or casting process. I can't express enough how fascinating and awesome some of your neat little tricks are, like when you pour some of the rubber into that face indent before pouring the large amount of rubber! I need to try these neat little tricks! :D Thank you so much ♥
This is fascinating. I know you probably know nothing of the stories behind these, but your entire process for molding and casting the mask just feels, so perfect for the stories. They were always stored upside down, in canisters that we were supposed to imagine were pressurised, that had floated across an ocean. It's perfect for them, despite the intensity of mass-production; story wise, they were, of course, supposed to be close to one of a kind - only ever up to 6 of a particular design.
I don't know how anyone could give you any crap about a triple beam. I only wish I had one. As you said they are super super accurate and you don't have to worry about touching them a minuscule amount too much and breaking them lol. Good video tho rob. You are what they call a true professional. So much awesome advice and information that only comes with years and years of experience
I would've murdered for these videos quite a few years ago. I had to learn from expensive trial and error lol. Maybe now I can get back into making my ball jointed dolls again~ thank you so much for your videos!
something i found that works great for cut molds. when you make the mold in a cup like this, you can use another of the same cup as the pressure hold without over pressurizing and deforming the mold. no rubberbands needed. just carefully cut the bottom of the cup where you have your sprue and vents.
Hi Robert, Fun channel! Vacuum forming may be a good solution for the lamp shade project. 1/8 inch plexy or acrylic would work. Simple mold/form. Bead blast for frost finish... make 2 for matched set. ; ) Could also use your molds and a clear thickened resin. Fill mold and use inner to squash the resin. May have a thicker parting line but who cares! For the glass dome. Try making a glove mold outer mold with split shell. Then make a fairly stiff core glove mold. Pour the clear in the gap with a riser. Should make a part with no parting lines and better wall thickness consistency.
I love your channel and the way you teach. I’m still new to resin and learning as I go. I bought a cupped hand mold and poured it using an art resin. The mold had about 520 ml cavity. It was a deep pour and the resin wasn’t. So, I used a old neck and back vibrating massager on the underside, packed the sides in ice and refrigerated it for 24 hrs. to slow the cure and avoid an exo-thermic reaction.. much to my amazement, it worked! It was bubble free and turned out really beautiful. I’m excited to one day try my hand at making molds. Thanks for all the great info!
All that is necessary is some good venting and a combination of rocking and rolling 8:15. I have a new hero on UA-cam! First video seen by Robert, it is sad that the algorithm has not recommended this to me earlier.
This became like my alltime favorite channel, such satisfying, entertaining and most of all, educating videos! Hope you keep up the regular postings for a long time! Also so like the workshop, old school, but leaves nothing to wish for. Maybe you could once make a short video about, like a little shop tour?
I haven't done a shop tour yet because I feel like my shop isn't much to look at. Most things are in drawers and containers to reduce cleaning. Tools and tables are on wheels so they can be moved around to suit the needs of any given project. I've been changing my shop to improve lighting and camera angles for youtube. I can do a video on why my shop is as boring looking as it is! Pure utility. Thanks for watching Stefan!
you should make a transparent one, or other crazy color combinations. It would be so cool to see differents casting of bionicle parts, and maybe sometime even building and entire resin bionicle
I'm really passionate about 3d printing and have been getting into moldmaking lately. I hope to produce resin duplicates of custom sculpted dnd miniatures that I print with an FDM printer. This channel is a godsend, not just due to the subject matter but due to the wholesome passion Mr. Tolone shows (helps that I'm an enormous Bionicle fan too). One day I hope to be a craftsman as great as you, sir! Thank you! Keep making great videos!
Haha, that table was not designed to do large objects! It was designed for light weight, easy disassembly and transport. I held off on that project for months hoping to do it at home. But I finally gave up and did the project in my temporary shop.
As a kid, at least that I can remember. My only interaction with Bionicle was watching a really bad VHS movie of it. I barely remember anything of it now. But I remember being scarred of it at points.
Casting is great for material choice but in the end, you have to tailor your choice of method to the part, or the part to the method. Slim, complex components just aren't reliably castable, so the next option is to change methods, namely to 3D modeling and SLA printing.
As someone who never really cared about the difference between replicas and the originals I might try this to recreate the rare mask colors including possibly the platinum mask of light.
For many years I have been making prototypes for a company that produces products by spin casting. I don't spin cast myself because I'm not a production casting shop. I am a sculptor/prototype maker. So pressure pots are all I need.
@@RobertTolone Roger that... and thank you for taking the time to respond. You are a true craftsman and artist. However, your message sounded like it is impossible to get resin flow into areas without doing a magical swishing method. Just wondering if a centrifuge (not the type used for roto-molding) would do a much better job.
My brother owns the Platinum Avokhii.. Which is the single rarest and most expensive piece of lego ever made. Its this EXACT mask.. but solid platinum, and the only one in existance.. Pretty cool to see this come across the feed!
UV cured resin used for 3D printing (or you can get small bottles for doing nail art) is good for filling holes, just build up the repair in thin layers.
Interesting casting, even with that geometry, it seems like the more “pits” the more difficult it is to push the air out. High pressure injection molding you can force the air to fill the part. You have thought about it, because when you make the mold you vent it where you do. You ever make a mold and, cast a part , then think what if I moved this here and that there, try it and it works better? Adding more vents in the trouble area help on something like this, or does it just make it more difficult to clean up post casting? As always Robert, great video, learning more and more you are the master caster. Thanks for sharing.
The whole game is figuring out the FEWEST vents and sprues you need for a giving part. It's all about getting a clean casting with the least possible cleanup.
Ok, so I have a question Robert, would vibrating the mold encourage the air to rise (like in concrete) help or hurt? I’m torn on wether it would cause issues with the parting line, cause leaks, encourage more bubbles or help?
If you look closely you will see that I was vibrating the mold by hand as I poured it. There is so much interest in vibration that just this week I resurrected my old vibrating table so we can play with it in future videos. But truthfully I have never found it to be as effective as pressure casting.
Would this work better if you designed the mold for injecting the resin? Like using a syringe... I'm just curious. I have a project where I am injecting urethane resin with a large syringe. The part is much larger, but it is thin, between 1-3mm thickness. (BTW, I like the pressure chambers. Simple and effective.
Great job there Bob , thanks for the "science" too, every scrap of info can come in handy . Again best advice from you of making your pattern for ease of moulding . Good to see you back in your shop with the scales!
Yes, they are generally much cheaper. Once an injection mold is made the machine can crank out almost unlimited parts fast. This video got a lot of interest because old plastic pieces are often not available so hobbyists resort to recasting their own.
Robert I always enjoy your videos. Your cut molds have saved me from my awful clunky 2 parters. I recently started casting smaller figure, that probably were injection molded to begin with. I have been using a combo of smartly placed vents and them use a needless syringe which pushes the air out. I don't know if that would work for something like this, just wanted to share and maybe hear your thoughts, thanks Keep up the great work
The vents are the key. If they are properly placed you can pour a cavity with gravity and dispense with the mess and extra steps of using a syringe. I’m always pushing the limits of how few vents I include because each one is another point that I have to clean up from the casting.
Make a two part mold, core and cavity, part fill the cavity and then plunge the core into it from above. For this you need good indexing, tooth picks work well. If there are any bubbles, vent the core by cutting tiny vents into the core at the problem areas.
Thank for the suggestion Greg, I appreciate your input. I evaluate my methods by doing time/material studies. I’d love to see one on your method. Keep careful track how how long it takes you to make the two-part mold. Then time how long it takes to make each casting as well as how long it takes to clean the flash from those 100% parting lines and all those little tiny vents. Count up the bubbles too because I guarantee you’re still going to get some. Also measure how much resin waste you get with the plunge method. Let me know the results. Gotta be honest - I expect the method I use will deliver much cleaner castings in 1/4 of the time.
Cool project. What are your thoughts on degassing a freshly poured mold in the vacuum chamber? It sounds like a potential alternative to prefilling the cavities with rubber, if you have enough room for it to bubble in the cup.
I've tried it before, but on a 2-part mold. there was some air underneath the part, and when I pulled the mold out of the vac chamber the atmosphere crushed my part inside the rubber. it would probably be OK with a cut mold though.
“Daddy, what’s that man molding there?”
“A relic, my child. A relic from a kinder, more simpler time.”
Child: "Can I have one?"
Dad: "were it so easy"
Good idea let's mold kinder eggs game ^^
Dad: In the time before time...
@@Captain_Vitorio_Muscovy wait, you gotta do the whole, "Gathered friends" schtick.
Except that the lore wasn't simple, lol. Ahhh... BIONICLE... nothing else quite like it.
I still want to run a BIONICLE or BIONICLE inspired rpg sometime. It'd be really cool to have some really unique and expansive lore like that to be discovered.
"It's a LEGO piece From the Bionicle series of a few years ago"
Yeah man, sometimes I also like to think 2008 was just a few years ago
Dude, isn't Takanuva like 2001 or 2002?
@@FuckUA-camAliases Old enough to hurt the soul to think back on lol
I was thinking the same cause i used to have the mcdonalds ones as well as the og black toa (onua i think was his name but i cant spell) and a black bohrok
@@FuckUA-camAliases 2003.
@@FuckUA-camAliases Was about to say. I remember playing with these around the age of 5. That was well before 2008.
As a Bionicle fan to this day (yes, I know it's discontinued, but there's still a community) I really appreciate trying this out
I really wish I hadn't gotten rid of mine.
I read that a new set is coming out soon-ish.
…I honestly thought Bionicle was legos newest thing…
BASED
@@thevikinghermit7151 the line of from 2001
Ended in 2010 then came back as a reboot in 2015 which ended in 2016 but was very different because it used a different building system called ccbs. The orginal building system the used for bioncle was Lego technic. And the standard Lego sets you see everywhere are made of system just so you know :D
Craftsmanship that would make Vakama himself proud 🔥
A man of culture I see
I bet Teridax was the one who comissioned this.
If there is ever another bionicle fan film, I would love for him to voice Turaga Vakama.
@@CardSearcher911 humor that would make Pohatu proud
@@CardSearcher911he’s asking for a whooping
God, that Lego piece brought me way back
"In a time before time..."
I got that set. It was by far the coolest set I owned until I bought the large scale toa mata nui at the end of the series.
@@definitelynotobama6851
You got the takanuva (2003) or maxilos (2007) kit? As those are the only 2 I'm aware of using the takanuva mask, the silver one being specific to Maxilos as the hands (and Vezon's dual mask as shoulders)
Own a decent bunch of them, up till the second last gen.
Iirc takanuva and makuta were the first ones with the cross peg to keep the masks in place as opposed to the round pegs, which allowed the opponents to knock the masks off.
@@DCG909 they tossed a few in random bits jars as well as the mask of time or whatever it was called, i miss random bits....
@@DCG909 Oh, I was wondering why it wasn't gold. I myself have the Takanuva mask of light set. And I still have the DVD of Mask of Light. I might just watch it now. see if it still holds up.
What I love about the Bionicle fans is that despite the two discontinuations, they never give up on making new creations, or on creating parts themselves !
what you're showing here is actually a way a LOT of LEGO Bionicle fans might have a chance to start getting their hands on some parts not only in rare or unproduced colors but also just some rare or hard to find parts. A lot of people always called most of the Bionicle parts uncastable due to their nature but you sir have shown that is not the case
3D printing
@@Hiihtopipa the masks are too delicate to 3D print and not only avoid filling any of the gaps with support (which you will NEVER get cleaned right) and prevent problems with the fitment on the attachment peg. I think you truly misunderstand how much time and effort has gone into recreating rare and limited edition lego pieces to try and lower the value for fans
I legit have 4 of those masks, 3 of which are silver
@@mariocar0727 yes and silver is one of the least rare colors, there's mata gold which only ran with the original takanuva, clear with metallic flake which also was a single set run, silver which was used frequently in quite a few sets and if memory serves there was maybe a black though don't quote me on that one for certain. Theres frequent need for this mask in all types of colors within the MOC community in every color from green to red, orange, purple, black, etc.
@@biosaber585 I have the sparkly golden mask from the original in my garage, I was stoked when I got it as a kid.
The fact that Robert, here, calls Bionicle "classic" makes me all the more happy to see this video pop up in my recommended feed.
Edit: Also, Robert, that part is the Kanohi Avohkii, the Great Mask of Light. To my knowledge, there have been three colors of the official mask: Silver (the one you used for the casting and molding), "dull gold," or "old gold," and a weird sort of sparkly transparent version that would usually take place of the dull/old gold one in certain "special" sets of Takanuva (in which the part originated, along with fellow titan set, "Makuta," which is where the silver version comes from, forming hands)
Wasn’t there also a special event with a real gold one?
Even a Platinum one
I got the Makuta and Takanuva for Christmas back in the early 2000's as a kid. Loved them soo much! Especially the bike Takanuva had!
actually the silver one of "Makuta" and "Takanuva"(stars version) are different colors. On Bricklink for example they're referred to as "Flat Silver" and "Pearl Light Gray"
there was also a rare one of a kinda Golden mask too from what i remember i think it was solid gold
Man I remember with the release of the movie that mask is from, Lego held a contest to win a version of that mask cast out of platinum
Casting Bionicle masks is actually what got me into resin casting in the first place! Your videos were very helpful when I was planning how to do it, but I never imagined you would make a video specifically about casting a mask. Maybe I'll come back to casting masks after watching this, I feel freshly inspired. Thanks, Robert!
I enjoy it when grandpas show their skills. Well done.
I am simple man I see bionicle and I click. You sir though are a master caster and I super appreciate what I witnessed here today. you earned a sub.
I don't understand how UA-cam brought me here, but I appreciate your content sir, and hope you make a lot more. It's not often that I see older folks on this platform with a large following, so it's always nice to see. Have a wonderful day, and thank you for casting a piece of my childhood. Lord knows how many of these things I had growing up.
As one who grew up with this franchise, this warms my heart. Mata Nui would smile today.
Would love to see a video watching you redesign this piece, or talk through the steps you would take, to make it suitable for resin casting.
I agree, a master class in how to design for resin casting would be an excellent video.
It's a good idea and I will definitely do that. This far, whenever a project comes in that need modification I ask the viewer to make the changes (so I don't have to). But it would be good to do videos about it.
Everthing from the video to the comments is giving me such nostalgic feelings. I can't get rid of the huge grin on my face. Thanks for the good feelings and memories you all unearthed. Today feels like a good day.
I made a mold of this avohki , i used a 2 part box mold , and it came up nice , but with some bubbles and missing spots, now by watching this video i am able to perfect and do better molds , as one of the things i want to do/ acomplish is to cast and be able to replicate all the masks / kanohi and some other Bionicle pieces like armor , weappons and some 3d printed pieces found on thingiverse ( mask of ultimate power, adaptive hau, among others)
This is the best channel about resin casting PERIOD!! I would like to see Robert casting a highly detailed 28mm miniature. It would be great to see how he deals with thin little details and the best way to orient a mold according to the pose of the miniature.
Thanks Joe. Miniature casting videos are in the works. Stayed tuned!
@@RobertTolone OH BOY!!!!
Honestly, I've seen similar flaws to the second attempt on genuine lego parts so that wasn't even a bad run per se. Of course, if you're going through the effort of a custom cast any blemish is a bit of a kick to your pride so I understand going for an even better try, but yeah, really nice work considering the "casting-unfriendliness" of the subject.
Same! I actually received an Avohkii with the exact same flaw in the set where they're used as claws, I believe it was the Makuta set
UA-cam randomly started recommending your videos to me, not sure what triggered the algorithm but im not mad about it, your videos are therapeutically chill
For that type of object is where I use a syringe, and the results I have had have been excellent, no bubbles, only burr (flash) that if you arrange the parting line well it is not noticeable and it is easy to clean, what I do is that in a two-part mold, I place the vents facing the mold, where they protrude in the solid part of the silicone and not in the part where it cuts and opens, when the pieces come out they look like the plastic pieces in the molds of injection of a factory
Robert, I know how you feel about us chuckle heads injecting molds with resin but in my personal experience; I have had a reasonable amount of success. Especially when casting injection molded parts, such as action figure accessories.
Agreed. I have tried pour casts and cut molds many times cuz everyone thinks they’re “the way”, but they’re wrong (sorry Robert). Injection is the way to go, along with controlled multi-part molds where you can design the part line. God, and the - ~waste~ of using cups and wooden sticks! 🤦🏽 But hey, whatever works for them I guess.
I don't why I got this video recommended. This isn't my thing. But It feels wholesome to see people enjoying (and even feeling nostalgic I think?) the content along with you.
Apparently people make fun of the scales but I think they are very cool, and the fact that you are still using it is amazing.
That orange mask of light came looking gorgeous!
Looks like it could have been a 2001 limited edition part like the Vahi
Mr Tolone, all of your teachings will be extremely helpful for me very soon, .....so thank you very very much!!
As a screenprinter, I totally resonated with that point about process-inspired design. The design challenges that each medium's limitations present is something that I've learned to embrace over the years. I tend to do my best designing when I have a task that revolves around a set of constraints.
hoping you being recommended to me as someone whos never seen your videos means the algorithm is promoting you, these are great
That old-school scale is incredible, haven't seen on of those in a fat minute, you can always tell a craftsman is damn good at what he does when his tools appear older than he does. Been a fan of Bionicle since I was a little kid, so seeing this done was super nostalgic and exciting for me.
That scale is just a kid - not even 30 years old yet! Glad you enjoyed the video.
i actually smiled when i first saw the balance scale
not a "haha funny" smile, but a genuine happy smile
just by the looks, and logic of that piece of tech, it feels accurate
it's awesome
Love my scale. It’s a warrior.
This is SO interesting! I have done a few rubber molds of miniatures and it is a tricky craft, I often get air bubbles during the mold making or casting process.
I can't express enough how fascinating and awesome some of your neat little tricks are, like when you pour some of the rubber into that face indent before pouring the large amount of rubber!
I need to try these neat little tricks! :D
Thank you so much ♥
A miniature project just arrived today. Stay tuned!
This is fascinating. I know you probably know nothing of the stories behind these, but your entire process for molding and casting the mask just feels, so perfect for the stories. They were always stored upside down, in canisters that we were supposed to imagine were pressurised, that had floated across an ocean. It's perfect for them, despite the intensity of mass-production; story wise, they were, of course, supposed to be close to one of a kind - only ever up to 6 of a particular design.
My Lego set was bricks. I knew nothing about Bionicles until this project came along.
great title, i feel like this video is going to jump to millions cause of the algorythem
The video is doing great because of the huge Lego fan base.
I don't know how anyone could give you any crap about a triple beam. I only wish I had one. As you said they are super super accurate and you don't have to worry about touching them a minuscule amount too much and breaking them lol. Good video tho rob. You are what they call a true professional. So much awesome advice and information that only comes with years and years of experience
This is what high quality content looks like. Very informative and entertaining. I'll look forward to next videos!
I would've murdered for these videos quite a few years ago. I had to learn from expensive trial and error lol. Maybe now I can get back into making my ball jointed dolls again~ thank you so much for your videos!
This guy right here is the definition of a high xp, got a trick for everything and then some
I resect the balance scale just due to how you can measure activly when pouring
I can fall asleep watching these. Your videos are so calming to watch.
I guessing a lot of people fall asleep watching my videos.
Such fine craftsmanship, it would even make Artahka proud.
something i found that works great for cut molds. when you make the mold in a cup like this, you can use another of the same cup as the pressure hold without over pressurizing and deforming the mold. no rubberbands needed. just carefully cut the bottom of the cup where you have your sprue and vents.
I had never really given that much though on the difficulties that injection molded pieces bring to the casting process, great video!
Hi Robert, Fun channel!
Vacuum forming may be a good solution for the lamp shade project. 1/8 inch plexy or acrylic would work. Simple mold/form. Bead blast for frost finish... make 2 for matched set. ; ) Could also use your molds and a clear thickened resin. Fill mold and use inner to squash the resin. May have a thicker parting line but who cares!
For the glass dome. Try making a glove mold outer mold with split shell. Then make a fairly stiff core glove mold. Pour the clear in the gap with a riser. Should make a part with no parting lines and better wall thickness consistency.
i remember going all the way down south and begging my mom to let me buy that set.
I love your channel and the way you teach. I’m still new to resin and learning as I go. I bought a cupped hand mold and poured it using an art resin. The mold had about 520 ml cavity. It was a deep pour and the resin wasn’t. So, I used a old neck and back vibrating massager on the underside, packed the sides in ice and refrigerated it for 24 hrs. to slow the cure and avoid an exo-thermic reaction.. much to my amazement, it worked! It was bubble free and turned out really beautiful. I’m excited to one day try my hand at making molds. Thanks for all the great info!
All that is necessary is some good venting and a combination of rocking and rolling 8:15. I have a new hero on UA-cam! First video seen by Robert, it is sad that the algorithm has not recommended this to me earlier.
Glad you found the channel Allan!
This became like my alltime favorite channel, such satisfying, entertaining and most of all, educating videos! Hope you keep up the regular postings for a long time! Also so like the workshop, old school, but leaves nothing to wish for. Maybe you could once make a short video about, like a little shop tour?
I haven't done a shop tour yet because I feel like my shop isn't much to look at. Most things are in drawers and containers to reduce cleaning. Tools and tables are on wheels so they can be moved around to suit the needs of any given project. I've been changing my shop to improve lighting and camera angles for youtube. I can do a video on why my shop is as boring looking as it is! Pure utility.
Thanks for watching Stefan!
you should make a transparent one, or other crazy color combinations. It would be so cool to see differents casting of bionicle parts, and maybe sometime even building and entire resin bionicle
Camouflage.
I'm really passionate about 3d printing and have been getting into moldmaking lately. I hope to produce resin duplicates of custom sculpted dnd miniatures that I print with an FDM printer.
This channel is a godsend, not just due to the subject matter but due to the wholesome passion Mr. Tolone shows (helps that I'm an enormous Bionicle fan too). One day I hope to be a craftsman as great as you, sir! Thank you! Keep making great videos!
oh my god i'm in love with your set of scales they are beautiful
Glad to see you back in the shop Robert, that wobbly table was making me tense. Best of luck - looking forward to the next one.
Haha, that table was not designed to do large objects! It was designed for light weight, easy disassembly and transport. I held off on that project for months hoping to do it at home. But I finally gave up and did the project in my temporary shop.
As a kid, at least that I can remember. My only interaction with Bionicle was watching a really bad VHS movie of it. I barely remember anything of it now. But I remember being scarred of it at points.
It was that spider one, wasn’t it
I think you can find all of the bionicle movies on youtube now, if you want to relive a fraction of your childhood, you can.
This warms my heart
Brilliant Robert. A real joy to watch.
You successfully made a casting mold for my favorite BIONICLE mask. You are a freaking treasure, sir.
I think it was mostly everyone's favorite mask lol
Man your eyesight must be amazingly good to see those tiny bubbles. I have to use the desk light magnifying glass to do most of my work.
I wear jeweler’s loupes when I sculpt. Without my glasses I’m pretty useless! 😳😭
Casting is great for material choice but in the end, you have to tailor your choice of method to the part, or the part to the method. Slim, complex components just aren't reliably castable, so the next option is to change methods, namely to 3D modeling and SLA printing.
I love these videos. You really do a nice job explaining things out and how to do things and things that don't work. Thank you.
This is my first time watching on this channel, its quite entertaining and this Guy right here has Talent 👌
As someone who never really cared about the difference between replicas and the originals I might try this to recreate the rare mask colors including possibly the platinum mask of light.
Those scales are awesome. I used one about 30 years ago. Be sure to oil it or wax it to prevent rust. ❤
This was super fun to watch, listening to you explaining is calming
You ever get a recommendation from youtube of a channel you're not interested in, but the thumbnail hits you right in your childhood?
Nice!!
I didn't understand why the first try didn't work but the drawing made it perfectly clear, thanks!
Excellent idea to pack the new mold with the cured chunks
Bionicle, I miss those times so much. Building worlds and stories. Then they changed way too much....
Interesting video, never seen resin molding before nor that scale. I didn't know they made them to be that accurate, just the mark of a quality tool.
Absolutely LOVE your videos. You have taught me so much.
Have you ever tried a centrifuge? It would not need to spin very fast.. just enough to induce higher gravity to force flow evenly throughout the mold.
For many years I have been making prototypes for a company that produces products by spin casting. I don't spin cast myself because I'm not a production casting shop. I am a sculptor/prototype maker. So pressure pots are all I need.
@@RobertTolone Roger that... and thank you for taking the time to respond. You are a true craftsman and artist. However, your message sounded like it is impossible to get resin flow into areas without doing a magical swishing method. Just wondering if a centrifuge (not the type used for roto-molding) would do a much better job.
Wonderful stuff Mr Bob. Thank you for taking us along.
Used to love these as a kid.
Can i suggest a vibrating plate ( like a scale ) with a dimmer and a pedal for when you pour your resin , it should take care of the bubble .
There are a few people who cast and sell these regularly, in fact i just saw one of em perfected their Avohkii mold a few days ago.
My brother owns the Platinum Avokhii.. Which is the single rarest and most expensive piece of lego ever made. Its this EXACT mask.. but solid platinum, and the only one in existance.. Pretty cool to see this come across the feed!
Love how energetic he is
UV cured resin used for 3D printing (or you can get small bottles for doing nail art) is good for filling holes, just build up the repair in thin layers.
The little ball bionicles were my favourite, next to the hunchback worm exosuits
This video would be perfect for me to try cast my Transformer parts!! 🔥🔥🔥 Mahalo Robert!
Interesting casting, even with that geometry, it seems like the more “pits” the more difficult it is to push the air out.
High pressure injection molding you can force the air to fill the part.
You have thought about it, because when you make the mold you vent it where you do. You ever make a mold and, cast a part , then think what if I moved this here and that there, try it and it works better?
Adding more vents in the trouble area help on something like this, or does it just make it more difficult to clean up post casting?
As always Robert, great video, learning more and more you are the master caster. Thanks for sharing.
The whole game is figuring out the FEWEST vents and sprues you need for a giving part. It's all about getting a clean casting with the least possible cleanup.
I have no idea why this was recommended to me or why I watched it so intently but it was quite interesting :)
Ok, so I have a question Robert, would vibrating the mold encourage the air to rise (like in concrete) help or hurt? I’m torn on wether it would cause issues with the parting line, cause leaks, encourage more bubbles or help?
If you look closely you will see that I was vibrating the mold by hand as I poured it. There is so much interest in vibration that just this week I resurrected my old vibrating table so we can play with it in future videos. But truthfully I have never found it to be as effective as pressure casting.
@@RobertTolone I was wondering if it would have helped encourage those 2 areas on the mask to rise before you threw it in the pressure pot
Another great performance. Very educational and helpfull. At what pressure do you usually cast smaller parts?
Approx 50 psi
I used that kind of scale all the time in chemistry unless we were doing very very small projects
Greetings Master, It would be great to see what changes to make to that piece in order to make it resin friendly
Would this work better if you designed the mold for injecting the resin? Like using a syringe... I'm just curious. I have a project where I am injecting urethane resin with a large syringe. The part is much larger, but it is thin, between 1-3mm thickness. (BTW, I like the pressure chambers. Simple and effective.
you can definitely fill and sand your bubbles with epoxy too. you can also polish them to a glass like finish afterwards. give it a shot.
Yes, you can. But it’s extra work. The only good bubble is no bubble.
The mask of light, man this was fantastic to see. You got a sub from me. this was interesting
This video was a wild ride. Thank you.
Huh I was not aware you could do such complex castings, really enjoyed the video!
You have to degas the silicone with a vacuum chamber right before you poor it, you will get no more bubbles, the pressure pot really only works resin
Sir, I thank you so much for this video, it brings me a great level of joy, as I wish to make this someday.
Great job there Bob , thanks for the "science" too, every scrap of info can come in handy . Again best advice from you of making your pattern for ease of moulding . Good to see you back in your shop with the scales!
Oh yeah , can't wait for the clear stuff ☺
I'd love to see a video on how you'd modify it for easier resin casting. Would be a great example.
Great suggestion! May have to do a follow up video.
Watched about 20 of your vids in the past few days. awesome content and how to instructions. on to the next one...
Thanks for watching Ron!
Lovely video. Besides the casting problems: Aren't injection mold plastic pieces from mass production also much cheaper than resin?
Yes, they are generally much cheaper. Once an injection mold is made the machine can crank out almost unlimited parts fast. This video got a lot of interest because old plastic pieces are often not available so hobbyists resort to recasting their own.
Robert I always enjoy your videos. Your cut molds have saved me from my awful clunky 2 parters. I recently started casting smaller figure, that probably were injection molded to begin with. I have been using a combo of smartly placed vents and them use a needless syringe which pushes the air out. I don't know if that would work for something like this, just wanted to share and maybe hear your thoughts, thanks Keep up the great work
The vents are the key. If they are properly placed you can pour a cavity with gravity and dispense with the mess and extra steps of using a syringe. I’m always pushing the limits of how few vents I include because each one is another point that I have to clean up from the casting.
No idea what brought me here but I loved watching this
how is it possible to still have bubbles after you put the mold into the pressure tank??
Make a two part mold, core and cavity, part fill the cavity and then plunge the core into it from above. For this you need good indexing, tooth picks work well. If there are any bubbles, vent the core by cutting tiny vents into the core at the problem areas.
Thank for the suggestion Greg, I appreciate your input. I evaluate my methods by doing time/material studies. I’d love to see one on your method. Keep careful track how how long it takes you to make the two-part mold. Then time how long it takes to make each casting as well as how long it takes to clean the flash from those 100% parting lines and all those little tiny vents. Count up the bubbles too because I guarantee you’re still going to get some. Also measure how much resin waste you get with the plunge method.
Let me know the results. Gotta be honest - I expect the method I use will deliver much cleaner castings in 1/4 of the time.
@@RobertTolone ok
Cool project. What are your thoughts on degassing a freshly poured mold in the vacuum chamber? It sounds like a potential alternative to prefilling the cavities with rubber, if you have enough room for it to bubble in the cup.
I've tried it before, but on a 2-part mold. there was some air underneath the part, and when I pulled the mold out of the vac chamber the atmosphere crushed my part inside the rubber. it would probably be OK with a cut mold though.
That's exactly why I never subject a model to pressure or vacuum. Great way to destroy your original part.