Rocker arm trunnions are shot. If they fail completely, the little bearings will go into the engine. The upgrade uses a captured bearing. Much needed improvement. I like your truck, you've done excellent work on it. This channel is awesome.
True LS7 lifters Use a push rod that .050” of an inch shorter due to a different pushrod cup height. 7.350” long est. I highly encouraged you to buy the adjustable LS pushrod length checking tool and verify your pushrod length and set the preload for those LS7 lifters.
Nice. I love it when you time laps it. It's funny. Looks like you drank an energy drink lol. I'm working on putting together a Ls swap for Crown Vic. I'm going to turbo it as well. There is plenty of room to put it where my intake air box goes. Thank you for the content.
@@SPPTVarmy some LS Motors and even the little older LT1 had piston slap from the get-go and then some of them were great from the get-go I hear it in my 4th gen Trans Am every morning for a couple minutes and then bam gone
What cam are you running? A lot of aftermarket cams have a smaller base circle requiring longer push rods. I had the same issue and went with a 7.425 push rod that cured the ticking. The 7.400 wasn't providing enough preload.
I dont know how many miles are on your motor but when my gmc 6.0 had 75k miles on it the same noise started to happen and a mechanic buddy to me to start putting a pint or quart of marvel mystery oil in and within 3,000 miles all the sludge in my motor was cleaning up and mostly all of the noise went away. Note: Mine clattered like a diesel and after the treatment you can barely hear anything now. Ive been doing that every oil change just to keep all the oil passages clean
What's you're favorite cam or cam kit for turbo 5.3? I'm in the middle of a build for my 70 chevelle and would like your recommendation. I'm looking budget and only for 10-14psi
25 + years as a tech and hotrodder . That sounds like rocker trunion to me . I run them with valve cover off and use a wood hammer handle to push on them to pin point them .
Maybe a dumb question but do you know if that part number for the head gasket will work on a 6.0 out of a 05 Denali. It has the 2 smaller bolts on the outer location of the heads so I believe that's a 1st gen LS I have
Wow the amount of people that don't really know on here is wild lol in my experience and own opinion of what I've ran in to is the lifters need to be ran and blead them out they stay to stiff when letting soak easiest thing that I have found is to install them of course a little bit of oil on the outside and then get a prelube canister and pressure up the system before starting it helps with the ticking noise they will tick at first for a little while until they officially bleed out also if you have too much push rod length it collapses the spring a little bit more and causes too much pressure on your cam basically multiplying your spring load at the valve and at the lobe makes lifters wear out prematurely basically making the lifter a solid lifter hope I was able to help some people on here with a little bit of knowledge I do have good luck on it man I've also ran into very rarely worn lifter bore it's always nice to deglaze lifter bores and you got to break them in
There’s parts of this video where it has really bad bass making my subwoofer go crazy on my tv.. idk if it’s a certain microphone or camera your using because it comes and goes at different scenes.. maybe wind noise from a fan?
Idaho rob it sounds a little like piston slap to me might have one that's a little worn down there usually in number 7 or number 8 just take a stethoscope and have a listen and if the noise gets a little less as it warms up. And you don't usually hear it when you're under load well that's what happened with my LS1 my number 7 cylinder was piston clearance was way out and I was getting the same ticking sound something to think about anyways.mike C
Break out the stethoscope to narrow down location of the tapping. Also remove all belts to eliminate any possible bolt on accessory noises. On a different brand motor I have found crank pulleys come loose causing that same type noise. Just a suggestion to narrow your search parameters.
i would try to pinpoint source of noise if it does not quiet after some run time,ground out cyls one at a time,see if it makes a difference.window an old valve cover on lower half so you dont get sprayed from push rods,view operation while running to see oil flow,exert pressure on suspect rockers,see if noise goes away(worn guides)establish real data,not guesses,just sayin.
You can move a timing light from cylinder to cylinder til it's synchronized with the sound to pinpoint the culprit also. I just cover what I have to with a piece of cardboard or an old towel and run it without the valve cover.
Trunnions are shot. And ls7 lifters aren't any different than any other sbc hyd. rlr. lifter used since the late 80s. Some people claim the cup is higher by ~.o4", but that is non consequential on a hydraulic setup. 'Ls7 lifters' is just marketing wank.
LS7 lifters do that especially if they were made in Mexico plant....spend a little more and get some Johnson lifters if you want to still use the trays then get 2110 if you don't want to use trays get 2116. You will be surprised also there were a lot of chinned LS7 knock offs that flooded the market
@@SPPTVarmy the tell tail squeak at low rpm sounds like it could be a rod, some go, some blow, or possibly to tight of a bearing clearance/crank end play, just trying to help. Would explain the random weak battery
The top of the head sure looks dry to me. Is it getting oil? You can have good oil pressure on a gauge, but if for instance the cam bearing are worn out, you can loose pressure for the top of the motor. The same cylinder that had the loose rocker arm also showed signs of not burning the same as the other cylinders. When you move that rocker arm it has that same thick sound like what you hear when its running. Try the wooden hammer trick mentioned in the comments. The rocker trunnions look like drive shaft U-joints. Go figure? Who's idea was that? ua-cam.com/video/sQmJXldl1aM/v-deo.html Good luck.
@@SPPTVarmy Impact is a bad idea because you are stressing the threads in the block. Steel threads into an aluminium block, the aluminium threads are not the best and can be stripped quite easily. shocking them with an impact just causes undue stress on the threads, at least crack them all first with a breaker bar. Just my previous experience. i've had to repair a few head bolt threads in ally LS Blocks before. Love the build and work you guys do though! just some food for thought. Cheers from here in Australia!
Man that’s annoying I hate to tell anyone what to do cos I’m an idiot, but I’m told you have to be carful what oil you run and check push rod length but then all of them would knock right. Go figure.
SweatPantsPosseTV this is a problem that drives me crazy whenever it happens, it’s like one bloody lifter just refuses to pump up, the only thing I did different to stop mine from doing it was I removed the bung in the side of the block that goes straight to the oil pump and I used a big ol syringe to pump oil through it it took a lot of oil and then I wound it over with the plugs out till I had good oil pressure everywhere.🤷♂️
I would definitely say it’s the rocker arms in trunnions Don’t waste money on no upgraded parts just throw you a set of used ones on there and call it done
Rocker arm trunnions are shot. If they fail completely, the little bearings will go into the engine. The upgrade uses a captured bearing. Much needed improvement. I like your truck, you've done excellent work on it. This channel is awesome.
True LS7 lifters Use a push rod that .050” of an inch shorter due to a different pushrod cup height. 7.350” long est.
I highly encouraged you to buy the adjustable LS pushrod length checking tool and verify your pushrod length and set the preload for those LS7 lifters.
GM LS7 lifter commonly used has .200 travel so .050 should make or brake it
I would definitely do a trunnion upgrade on the rocker arms because I seen alot of movement on them when you was pushing down on that one rocker arm
Nice. I love it when you time laps it. It's funny. Looks like you drank an energy drink lol. I'm working on putting together a Ls swap for Crown Vic. I'm going to turbo it as well. There is plenty of room to put it where my intake air box goes. Thank you for the content.
I have seen this same problem with good push rods killing the rocking bearings. Look at your rocker when you were moving it. Trunnion upgrade time
Also really enjoy watching your guys videos you guys are pretty funny
Rocker trunnions. I see movement in them. They should be upgraded anyway when you have stiffer than stock valve springs.
Great video!
Installs big cam, boosts it, leaves rockers stock... O.o
That trunnion isn't gonna live, man!
Did you take a good look at the cam lobes while it was apart?
I had that same noise and would go away when you give it gas. Turned out to be exhaust gaskets.wish i new that before I changed the coil pack.
Damn! I know you will get it.
Love that truck. That sounds like a rod bearing to me. Camera audio may make be making it worse than it is in person maybe? Good luck!
Rod or wrist pin or piston slap what my big 3 was
I believe it is piston slap.
@@SPPTVarmy LS1's here down under had shocking piston slap, even a couple of law suits with Holden over it.
@@SPPTVarmy some LS Motors and even the little older LT1 had piston slap from the get-go and then some of them were great from the get-go I hear it in my 4th gen Trans Am every morning for a couple minutes and then bam gone
Does the noise go away after warming up...maybe piston slap
Maby bad pick up tube o-ring?
Pull on the crank if it moves back and forth thrust washer is worn same thing with my l33
What cam are you running? A lot of aftermarket cams have a smaller base circle requiring longer push rods. I had the same issue and went with a 7.425 push rod that cured the ticking. The 7.400 wasn't providing enough preload.
Sounds like a Exhaust leak at The Manifold?
push rod length could be and issue.The cover does help with the lifter oil galley pressure but that would affect all the lifters
I dont know how many miles are on your motor but when my gmc 6.0 had 75k miles on it the same noise started to happen and a mechanic buddy to me to start putting a pint or quart of marvel mystery oil in and within 3,000 miles all the sludge in my motor was cleaning up and mostly all of the noise went away. Note: Mine clattered like a diesel and after the treatment you can barely hear anything now. Ive been doing that every oil change just to keep all the oil passages clean
What video did the S10 build start? Is there a playlist with just the S10 build?
ua-cam.com/play/PLWzCT8MDT_Y1mv-kH2v2ZcXvQrGxsaYyC.html
Needs the trunnion upgrade mister Rob
Its getting that this winter but I'm not sure thats what is causing the clacking. The engine is coming out this winter to figure it out.
just to add to my comment,have you ever inspected the rocker arms and fulcrums for wear?
I did and they were good
Torque converter bolts backed out??
What's you're favorite cam or cam kit for turbo 5.3? I'm in the middle of a build for my 70 chevelle and would like your recommendation. I'm looking budget and only for 10-14psi
Sounds like exhaust manifold leak
Sounds like one of the pushrods is Warren pull them all out and measure all of them precisely I would guess you find one or two are a little shorter
25 + years as a tech and hotrodder . That sounds like rocker trunion to me . I run them with valve cover off and use a wood hammer handle to push on them to pin point them .
Maybe a dumb question but do you know if that part number for the head gasket will work on a 6.0 out of a 05 Denali. It has the 2 smaller bolts on the outer location of the heads so I believe that's a 1st gen LS I have
Sounds like a exhaust leak to me. Seems like if it was a rocker it would get louder as you rev it? Good luck Rob.
Check your flex plate bolts sounds like it could be that.
Could be cracked also . Definitely sounds like it.
Wow the amount of people that don't really know on here is wild lol in my experience and own opinion of what I've ran in to is the lifters need to be ran and blead them out they stay to stiff when letting soak easiest thing that I have found is to install them of course a little bit of oil on the outside and then get a prelube canister and pressure up the system before starting it helps with the ticking noise they will tick at first for a little while until they officially bleed out also if you have too much push rod length it collapses the spring a little bit more and causes too much pressure on your cam basically multiplying your spring load at the valve and at the lobe makes lifters wear out prematurely basically making the lifter a solid lifter hope I was able to help some people on here with a little bit of knowledge I do have good luck on it man I've also ran into very rarely worn lifter bore it's always nice to deglaze lifter bores and you got to break them in
SPPTV now in Sensurround !
I had a 5.4 ford truck do that at one time I tore into the engine and found a bent connecting rod just barely hitting the cylinder wall
There’s parts of this video where it has really bad bass making my subwoofer go crazy on my tv.. idk if it’s a certain microphone or camera your using because it comes and goes at different scenes.. maybe wind noise from a fan?
Ya it was the fan, it was pretty hot that day.
SweatPantsPosseTV hot? In Canada? Lol
We only live in igloos in the winter
check your torque converter bolts.
was this before you found out you had a bent rod
Yes
Ls2 needs a notch for the lifter trays
Idaho rob it sounds a little like piston slap to me might have one that's a little worn down there usually in number 7 or number 8 just take a stethoscope and have a listen and if the noise gets a little less as it warms up. And you don't usually hear it when you're under load well that's what happened with my LS1 my number 7 cylinder was piston clearance was way out and I was getting the same ticking sound something to think about anyways.mike C
Ya thats what i think it is
Trunnion upgrade. Been there and done that. Piston slap should go away once it's up to temperature. Should not be all the time.
Sounds like a main bearing knock.
Ive always had the best luck with 12 inch pounds on the individual rockers. That pretty equals to a very mild ugga dugga 😆
Break out the stethoscope to narrow down location of the tapping. Also remove all belts to eliminate any possible bolt on accessory noises. On a different brand motor I have found crank pulleys come loose causing that same type noise. Just a suggestion to narrow your search parameters.
great video..
i would try to pinpoint source of noise if it does not quiet after some run time,ground out cyls one at a time,see if it makes a difference.window an old valve cover on lower half so you dont get sprayed from push rods,view operation while running to see oil flow,exert pressure on suspect rockers,see if noise goes away(worn guides)establish real data,not guesses,just sayin.
You can move a timing light from cylinder to cylinder til it's synchronized with the sound to pinpoint the culprit also. I just cover what I have to with a piece of cardboard or an old towel and run it without the valve cover.
The oil pickup orings are known to go bad on these engines causing the exact same noise.
Recommend doing a trunion kit.. Amazon has em for cheap. I think Michigan Motorsports is the seller. Really good cheap insurance..
Radical intro.
do a oil change and put a bottle of GM EOS in it the lifters still need to break into the cam and the EOS will protect both lifters and cam.
If it ain’t tickin it ain’t rippin!
Sounds like flex plate
All the gen 4 stuff has notches for dod. I think it's so you can't put a dod lifter where it doesn't belong
sounds like rod knock
Go to hardware store and buy some BBQ pit paint and spray all that lava wrap with several coats and it won't be as bad to touch anymore.
That is trunnion slop
Ignore the tick. I have for 18 years on my 02. Turn up the radio
rod knock
👍👍👍
Trunnions are shot. And ls7 lifters aren't any different than any other sbc hyd. rlr. lifter used since the late 80s. Some people claim the cup is higher by ~.o4", but that is non consequential on a hydraulic setup. 'Ls7 lifters' is just marketing wank.
Try to actually do the rockers on the base circle like your supposed too 🤷🏻♂️ could help
Everything else is covered, so I'm gonna go with worn muffler bearings.
I was going to change them but they are always out of stock. 😛
Rod knock. Noise goes away under load.
It'll go away after lifters pump up
LS7 lifters do that especially if they were made in Mexico plant....spend a little more and get some Johnson lifters if you want to still use the trays then get 2110 if you don't want to use trays get 2116. You will be surprised also there were a lot of chinned LS7 knock offs that flooded the market
Sounds like a Rod or main bearing sorry to say it.
yup that's what i'm thinking too
Been making this noise since i built it and it hasnt blown up yet so i doubt its a bearing
@@SPPTVarmy the tell tail squeak at low rpm sounds like it could be a rod, some go, some blow, or possibly to tight of a bearing clearance/crank end play, just trying to help. Would explain the random weak battery
Ain't dat a bitch,oh well at least u know it's all new on top end
Hi..it maybe rod bearing, timing chain slip/off or camshaft failure..good luck.
Lifter trays are worn out...the lifters should stay in the trays without sliding out...
We put new trays with the new lifters
@@SPPTVarmy did you ever find out where the noise was coming from?
No, thinking about changing the front cam plate next.
The top of the head sure looks dry to me. Is it getting oil? You can have good oil pressure on a gauge, but if for instance the cam bearing are worn out, you can loose pressure for the top of the motor. The same cylinder that had the loose rocker arm also showed signs of not burning the same as the other cylinders. When you move that rocker arm it has that same thick sound like what you hear when its running. Try the wooden hammer trick mentioned in the comments. The rocker trunnions look like drive shaft U-joints. Go figure? Who's idea was that? ua-cam.com/video/sQmJXldl1aM/v-deo.html Good luck.
Using an impact to remove head bolts is a very bad idea
Explain
@@SPPTVarmy Impact is a bad idea because you are stressing the threads in the block. Steel threads into an aluminium block, the aluminium threads are not the best and can be stripped quite easily. shocking them with an impact just causes undue stress on the threads, at least crack them all first with a breaker bar. Just my previous experience. i've had to repair a few head bolt threads in ally LS Blocks before. Love the build and work you guys do though! just some food for thought. Cheers from here in Australia!
Damn ,,,first,,,??
yea man
ur so spacal
@@traderz4788 damn dude,,was kinda shocked,,,I like the channel,,,was not bragging at all.not special at all??
Yea 22 ft lbs on lifter trays is a good way to break a bolt, but hey I'm not making the video.
*lb/in he meant
You have an exhaust leak. Pretty obvious.
Loose flywheel bolts
Man that’s annoying I hate to tell anyone what to do cos I’m an idiot, but I’m told you have to be carful what oil you run and check push rod length but then all of them would knock right. Go figure.
I have tried different oils. I am planning on rechecking pushrod length but it was good before.
SweatPantsPosseTV this is a problem that drives me crazy whenever it happens, it’s like one bloody lifter just refuses to pump up, the only thing I did different to stop mine from doing it was I removed the bung in the side of the block that goes straight to the oil pump and I used a big ol syringe to pump oil through it it took a lot of oil and then I wound it over with the plugs out till I had good oil pressure everywhere.🤷♂️
bent rod..
I would definitely say it’s the rocker arms in trunnions Don’t waste money on no upgraded parts just throw you a set of used ones on there and call it done