Hey Dan ! The fastest & cheapest rust remover is called “ The Works “ toilet bowl cleaner - Dolla General, etc has a knock off version for under $2 / qt - it’s mostly Hydro Chloride, so don’t soak too long , as it starts eating layers of metal ! Be sure to coat asap w oil or paint , as it re-oxidizes quickly in free air !😊
30% vinegar speeds up the rust removal process quite a bit. Regular vinegar is only about 5%. The 30% is available by the gallon in big box stores, online, and possibly from farm supply stores. Some recommend adding metal polish to soft media to get a better result.
you could also buy glacial acetic acid which is anhydrous (water-free) vinegar, then dilute to prefered concentration. Kodak stop bath is available at many camera shops and is, I believe, a 85-90% solution of acetic acid. So thats another source of conc. vinegar.
You mentioned crushed walnut, but didn't mention if it was coarse or fine walnut. I went to the store looking and spent an hour googling which type I should use, but didn't have much luck. Could you please tell?
Hey Dan, so what sealer do you use, and how long does it last? I'm wanting to restore bolts from a oldtimer motorcycle I'm restoring and am looking for a solid solution. I heard some people heat up and use oil dipping to make em bakered black and that really lasts long, does your sealer work well overtime ? Also please provide the name of the sealant product :) ty !
The elements have rusted some of the heads of the fasteners after a few years of having my treated bolts exposed. I have decided to just clean the hardware and then paint the heads
@ProjectDanH after the tumbler, heat them up with a torch and dip them in old motor oil. This prevents corrosion for a long time also gives them a great finish.
The Ionger the better. I had a couple bolt heads that weren't soaked in oil too long get surface rust after being exposed to the elements after a year or so.
i know it's an old video, but no matter how much i tried, i couldn't help myself to comment that the JEEP Cherokee gotta have enjoyed it very much. Who doesn't like to have their nuts and bolt polished?? 😊😊
@@ProjectDanH I just bought an electric scooter and am in the process of rebuilding and upgrading parts. The nuts, bolts, and screws need a once over. I used white vinegar and all the grease and grim came off. Now I want to use an engaver to polish them. Maybe spray painting them would make them look nice. I have been watching the process of blackening (or bluing) and am intrigued. As soon as my engraver is ready for pick up I think I will be ready to choose the direction to go. Thanks for your insights!
Project Dan H I found 3 in 1 oil that gets off rust, prevents rust, and is used as regular oil. It worked great. Also, how long should you leave the nuts and bolts in the oil?
Had to pull a solid oak toilet seat, as the three sections were not properly glued together. Well,the front to the sides is fine, but the rear is a joke. I had tried to slip wood glue in on the back center, and then added L brackets under it. Now the brackets are breaking, looking very funky, and the two main bolts for the seat are, after removing the plastic wing things, goopy and sticky. Now the new but not as jazzy oak veneer seat is on, (weighs a LOT less) but at least it's oval instead of the round solid oak job which was correct until the landlord installed a low flow oval. It's like reading Hemingway, ain't it? Anyway, that solid oak needs about an hour of work and the RIGHT glue and new brackets with deeper holes for the screws. Then I can wear it to my parachute class. So, let's see what you have to get my goopy sticky bolts at least hall closet worthy.
I am trying regular vinegar for cleaning and dry them with motor oil. Don't have the sealant like you have. I will see what happens. Thanks for the video! Found this useful. Thanks 😊
Best to plate them instead. Easier than using a wire wheel and bench grinder... but not as effective or efficient. 3 days tumbling? I can get those blasted, wired, polished and plated in a couple of hours.
Great effort and thanks for the step by step video. I am currently working on an old rust bucket Jeep. I some cases I have replaced the hardware with stainless. A very cost prohibitive option. Using the tumbler
appreciate the video, and just want to add that after years and years of doing this kinda stuff I came to realize it always comes down to two things in order to clean the hardware perfectly, chemicals (ie some sort of acid aka phosphoric for heavy rust or vinegar for light rust) and abrasion in this case a tumbler though I prefer a wire wheel on a 4" angle grinder (not on a drill) to really clean the threads, I noticed some of your bolt threads still had gunk on them even after the little tumbler did it's job, not criticizing just making an observation this video is not going on two years so I would really love to see how these bolts held up, the cleaning is the easy part (though yes time consuming) I am more concern with the treatment, did they rust in just two years? courious and for the last part use WD-40 it's in the name
Thanks for the view! yes it's been quite a while since my restoration and I have learned that the fasteners that were re painted lasted the longest. The ones that were treated and used on the exterior ended up with the same rusting that all the other get. from now on I will vinegar them, wire wheel them, tumble them, prime them , then paint them. 👍👍👍
@@ProjectDanH thank you for the reply, appreciate it, you will find that phosphoric acid from Home Depot is the way to go instead of vinegar, and you will find out that you will scratch the chip and peel the paint off your fasteners the first time you try to tighten them, not being rude just trying to save your some grief, UA-cam oil dipping or oil treating bolts, it's where you heat them up to glowing red then dunk them in old motor oil, yes this can change their strength a bit but for body panels it's fine
@@Good-Enuff-Garage my thoughts are that Even if the paint chips off the corners when I wrench em on... it's still 90% better than the non painted ones lol. I'll definitely check out the oil dipping. Thank you!
@@ProjectDanH thanks man. ill be sure to mention u when i make the video later today. ill use vinegar to get thecroad gunk off the bolts, hopefully it wont mess up the polished finished
Hey Dan I noticed you loved WD-40. Seriously try out a can of fluid film. Get back to me when she use it you'll understand ......great. Rust. preventative.
Dan, I'm used to just tossing my cases or hardware into a rotating tumbler with a fine media and would like to ask what benefit does the Apple Vinegar have (?), because right now the only thing I can think of is there is less work for the tumbler to do and less contamination of the media as well - Yes, No, or some other reason. Also, I read one of the comments in regards to painting the bolt heads and washers, I use zinc oxide to prime and then a good petroleum based two-part paint or at least krylon since it's lasted for several years on some steel toys by "Radio Flyer" that I repainted after my grandsons outgrew them and are now waiting for the next batch of kiddies to enjoy, just throwing a coat of good wax on them every few months is basically the secret and maybe getting them out of the elements couldn't hurt. Just for info I have an extensive background in aircraft coatings and spray painted most everything you saw at Disneyland from 1985 until 1994 when I finally quite painting and got into Environmental Compliance for them until I retired in 2011.
Hey Larry, Thanks for your feedback. Yes, the acidic vinegar is a great way to wash the hardware prior to the tumbler. After doing this for several years I find its best to paint the bolts like you said. thanks for the view!
I started off using a wire wheel on a bench grinder then I found out about electrolysis and depending on the type of water do you have you could remove rust from anything.
If not nooo good of that just hope there no head hardware in there o your penetrating selant looks a lot like leanseed god forbid it’s a faked type of offense oil 1 the acid reaction not quench Will rust then you have seize with no seize pertinent then you have broken head hardware hmm baking soda the most important but you also forgot the annealing process good luck with those no Wate the persons you sold it to not to mention the mechanic that has to work on it
@@ProjectDanH haha I'm the exact same way. Currently cleaning up an 88 Yamaha Moto 4 350 ATV. I'm not trying to make it a show quad but I like to give things a once over to clean/get familiar with it and fix things along the way. I have pretty bad OCD when it comes to cleaning stuff and that includes all the little nuts and bolts. Just wish there was an easy way to protect them from rusting that actually worked besides plating them because I really can't set up a meth lab at my house..
"soak for a while" = 7 days LOL Good way to clean up nuts and bolts. Well done.
LOL, i just found a container thats been soaking for a year! im scared to open it! haha
@@ProjectDanH Open it and let's see. It could be a pandora's box!
@@vinloy23 I think I'll make a quick video! Haha
@@ProjectDanH Direct me to this video sir?
😂😂😂😁😅
Not only was this entertaining but I got to learn something new and never really thought about......well done Sir !!!
Thank you. I really appreciate it!
Hey Dan !
The fastest & cheapest rust remover is called “ The Works “ toilet bowl cleaner - Dolla General, etc has a knock off version for under $2 / qt
- it’s mostly Hydro Chloride, so don’t soak too long , as it starts eating layers of metal !
Be sure to coat asap w oil or paint , as it re-oxidizes quickly in free air !😊
30% vinegar speeds up the rust removal process quite a bit. Regular vinegar is only about 5%. The 30% is available by the gallon in big box stores, online, and possibly from farm supply stores. Some recommend adding metal polish to soft media to get a better result.
excellent tip! Thank you!!
you could also buy glacial acetic acid which is anhydrous (water-free) vinegar, then dilute to prefered concentration. Kodak stop bath is available at many camera shops and is, I believe, a 85-90% solution of acetic acid. So thats another source of conc. vinegar.
Excellent video. It gave me a bunch of ideas of what I can do with my rusty, old nuts, screws & bolts. Might even do it tomorrow. Thanks.
Thanks John!
Is apple cider vinegar better for cleaning than white vinegar?
haha! don't know... whichever is More acidic maybe???
You mentioned crushed walnut, but didn't mention if it was coarse or fine walnut. I went to the store looking and spent an hour googling which type I should use, but didn't have much luck. Could you please tell?
Phosphoric acid will do the same in less than an hour at room temp. I use coal slag in my tumbler if I want to go that route.
I would say yes, considering its over a year later, your probably finished the job. hope all is well!
Great! Where did you find that plastic jug with the lid?
So what is the sealer, just basically WD40?
We live on the beach in Florida. Really easy to collect sand in 5gal buckets. Attach an air hose voila gotta sandblaster.
I'm not sure salty sand is the best for restoring metal.. it may promote rust
Are you going to zinc plate them to keep them from rusting?
No, I just paint em now.. Im not that good. 🤣
Well im glad you didnt need to soak the penetrating sealant in for 3 weeks. Anyone got tips on how to clean hardware in a couple hours?
Vice and wire wheel, spray paint
hello can you ues that apple cider vinegar in a spray bottle if the bolts are still on the truck
i don't think that will work
K thank you
Why not heat them before soaking for black oxide coating? Wouldn't it be longer lasting?
Did you add baking soda to stop the acidic reaction
No.. but good idea
Excelente vídeo!
What can I use instead of tumbler?
Wire wheel on a drill works fine
1 week in vinegar my bolts turned black :( was it too long ?
nope! normal!
Look into a product line call Corrosion X HD iin liquid in can substitute for the penetration oil and motor oil in the bag.
will do thank you!
shot man, i was worried about how to replace some old large hose clamps for my bus rebuild, now i think I'll try this on all my bolts and springs.
My favorite method is to give it a good coat of paint after the cleaning!
got it all in the vinegar now.
How about the color black nuts and bolts? Will the black color remain or it will be gone? Thanks
I found the the most durable finish was rust-oleum paint afterwards
Does this process apply for Aluminum bolts? They don't rust but got dirt from engine bay (gunk and oil residues).
Thank you for the amazing video👍
sure . you can tumble anything! use a good degreaser instead of vinegar!
Sir please tell me how to make a tumbler sand blast
Easy. Amazon
Hey Dan, so what sealer do you use, and how long does it last? I'm wanting to restore bolts from a oldtimer motorcycle I'm restoring and am looking for a solid solution. I heard some people heat up and use oil dipping to make em bakered black and that really lasts long, does your sealer work well overtime ?
Also please provide the name of the sealant product :) ty !
Unfortunately nothing in NY lasts very long.. I now clean the hardware and paint em!
So when going to reinstall the bolts do you just put install with the motor oil all over them or do you then clean the motor oil off and install?
The elements have rusted some of the heads of the fasteners after a few years of having my treated bolts exposed. I have decided to just clean the hardware and then paint the heads
@ProjectDanH after the tumbler, heat them up with a torch and dip them in old motor oil. This prevents corrosion for a long time also gives them a great finish.
How long should the nuts and bolts sit in the oil?
The Ionger the better. I had a couple bolt heads that weren't soaked in oil too long get surface rust after being exposed to the elements after a year or so.
What kind of penetrating oil do you use?
I use on blaster.. I'm about to try some seafoam products soon
thanks for the vid! is the sealant an oil or more of a paint/coating?
it was a sealing penetrating oil, however I have had better results with just paint
This is a great idea! Good Video
7:13 Sounded like chris fix XD
LMAO! He is awesome
love that dude
YES!!!!!!!! nice catch
Do I need an elsa zip lock bag and if so where can I find them?
🤣. recommended, not required 👍
i know it's an old video, but no matter how much i tried, i couldn't help myself to comment that the JEEP Cherokee gotta have enjoyed it very much. Who doesn't like to have their nuts and bolt polished?? 😊😊
Hi I would like to know about this way of cleaning !
Great. Grab a Tumbler on Amazon
Awesome attention to detail.
Thanks for noticing! It's a reoccurring theme in my work, please call me out on it if I start slacking. LOL!!!
Once you oil them you just wipe them off like you dried them right?
Can the apple vinegar be substituted with white?
Sure, all vinegar is acidic. on weather exposed jeep parts I have longer lasting results spray painting them instead of oiling them
@@ProjectDanH I just bought an electric scooter and am in the process of rebuilding and upgrading parts. The nuts, bolts, and screws need a once over. I used white vinegar and all the grease and grim came off. Now I want to use an engaver to polish them. Maybe spray painting them would make them look nice. I have been watching the process of blackening (or bluing) and am intrigued. As soon as my engraver is ready for pick up I think I will be ready to choose the direction to go. Thanks for your insights!
@@Misserbi best of luck on your restoration
Wow this was a great video man!!!!
Glad you liked it!
what grade media did you use?
crushed walnuts
amzn.to/37KcbNY
Walnuts?? Crushed shells? Easily available Alternatives?
Nothing's easier than the crushed walnut shells!
amzn.to/37KcbNY
Do you have to use the sealant?
No, it may rust quicker with out it tho
Project Dan H I found 3 in 1 oil that gets off rust, prevents rust, and is used as regular oil. It worked great. Also, how long should you leave the nuts and bolts in the oil?
Had to pull a solid oak toilet seat, as the three sections were not properly glued together. Well,the front to the sides is fine, but the rear is a joke. I had tried to slip wood glue in on the back center, and then added L brackets under it. Now the brackets are breaking, looking very funky, and the two main bolts for the seat are, after removing the plastic wing things, goopy and sticky. Now the new but not as jazzy oak veneer seat is on, (weighs a LOT less) but at least it's oval instead of the round solid oak job which was correct until the landlord installed a low flow oval. It's like reading Hemingway, ain't it? Anyway, that solid oak needs about an hour of work and the RIGHT glue and new brackets with deeper holes for the screws. Then I can wear it to my parachute class. So, let's see what you have to get my goopy sticky bolts at least hall closet worthy.
Where can i get the tumbler? What is the name? I want to search
its for tumbling brass to reload ammo
Wouldn't like a rust remover be a lot less time consuming. Like 2 to 4 hours as apposed to a week
Yep,. But I usually don't need a quick turn around.
I am trying regular vinegar for cleaning and dry them with motor oil. Don't have the sealant like you have. I will see what happens. Thanks for the video! Found this useful. Thanks 😊
Thanks for watching, i found that paint works best!
7:49 whyyyyyy??? 🤯after they were so neat and in order???? 🤦🏽♀️
lol. it has to be preserved!
Best to plate them instead. Easier than using a wire wheel and bench grinder... but not as effective or efficient. 3 days tumbling? I can get those blasted, wired, polished and plated in a couple of hours.
It tumbled them for a couple days because I was too busy to wire them. They came out great with out lifting a finger.
Great effort and thanks for the step by step video. I am currently working on an old rust bucket Jeep. I some cases I have replaced the hardware with stainless. A very cost prohibitive option. Using the tumbler
So fresh and clean 🧼☺️
Holy crap I need a tumbler
Yeah man! It's great cuz it's virtually effortless!
Your videos are great man! Subscribed!
Wow that was a lot of work...
Nah, the vinegar and the tumbler did all the work! Hardest part was filming and editing. Lol
appreciate the video, and just want to add that after years and years of doing this kinda stuff I came to realize it always comes down to two things in order to clean the hardware perfectly, chemicals (ie some sort of acid aka phosphoric for heavy rust or vinegar for light rust) and abrasion in this case a tumbler though I prefer a wire wheel on a 4" angle grinder (not on a drill) to really clean the threads, I noticed some of your bolt threads still had gunk on them even after the little tumbler did it's job, not criticizing just making an observation
this video is not going on two years so I would really love to see how these bolts held up, the cleaning is the easy part (though yes time consuming) I am more concern with the treatment, did they rust in just two years? courious
and for the last part use WD-40 it's in the name
Thanks for the view! yes it's been quite a while since my restoration and I have learned that the fasteners that were re painted lasted the longest. The ones that were treated and used on the exterior ended up with the same rusting that all the other get. from now on I will vinegar them, wire wheel them, tumble them, prime them , then paint them. 👍👍👍
@@ProjectDanH thank you for the reply, appreciate it, you will find that phosphoric acid from Home Depot is the way to go instead of vinegar, and you will find out that you will scratch the chip and peel the paint off your fasteners the first time you try to tighten them, not being rude just trying to save your some grief, UA-cam oil dipping or oil treating bolts, it's where you heat them up to glowing red then dunk them in old motor oil, yes this can change their strength a bit but for body panels it's fine
@@Good-Enuff-Garage my thoughts are that Even if the paint chips off the corners when I wrench em on... it's still 90% better than the non painted ones lol. I'll definitely check out the oil dipping. Thank you!
you can speed this process up by attaching an old electric sander to the container , takes about hour to clean , save waiting a week
lol, that could work!
Thanks for the information.
Any time!
@@ProjectDanH 💯😊
Can this be done without the frozen zip lock bag?? 😜
Nope! Let it go, haha!
Great instructional video. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome video! Working on a Cj-5 project on my channel and I'll definitely be doing this.
good to hear! I prefer painting my bolts to finish.. it holds up better
How much is the tumbler.
The complete kit is about $90 on Amazon
awesome, well i guess i am gonna have to make a trip to harbor freight and buy a tumbler haha.
Absolutely! I got mine from Amazon. Prime 2 day!!
Thank you so much for the knowledge!
Anytime 💪
well after watching this video guess my bolts wont be ready for an entire week...well done btw
Haha! Yea it's not an instant fix but it get the job done nicely
What about other methods to 'seal' them such as bluing, id rather have dry bolts on hand. Having an oily bolts attracts and hold dirt/dust
You can absolutely! unfortunately the bluing chemical was expensive and they still will rust
Wire wheel, torch and old engine oil would have taken a hour not 3 days
you're missing a point. it would have taken an hour of work as opposed to three days of doing virtually nothing
@@ProjectDanH according to this video, it's only a 9:05 process 👍
@@330.Custom.Diecast lol.. true
Hey Dan. Your NUTs. .......good content......
🤣🤣🤣
Very good work! Thank you!
Thank you for watching! 👍
U think i can tumble in water bottle full of vinegar n salt ?
not salt.. you'll rust it again! but some crushed walnuts from a pet shop 😉
@@ProjectDanH its not rusty j road gunk. So should i even use vinegar to begin with ?
@@LateNightRituals sure! Vinegar is cheap in at does work!
@@ProjectDanH thanks man. ill be sure to mention u when i make the video later today. ill use vinegar to get thecroad gunk off the bolts, hopefully it wont mess up the polished finished
@@LateNightRituals awesome man! Thank you. Vinegar shouldn't be too harsh. 💪
Hey Dan I noticed you loved WD-40. Seriously try out a can of fluid film. Get back to me when she use it you'll understand ......great. Rust. preventative.
Yes, its great stuff! Especially for us on LI. My dad uses it on his 99 expedition!
Dan, I'm used to just tossing my cases or hardware into a rotating tumbler with a fine media and would like to ask what benefit does the Apple Vinegar have (?), because right now the only thing I can think of is there is less work for the tumbler to do and less contamination of the media as well - Yes, No, or some other reason.
Also, I read one of the comments in regards to painting the bolt heads and washers, I use zinc oxide to prime and then a good petroleum based two-part paint or at least krylon since it's lasted for several years on some steel toys by "Radio Flyer" that I repainted after my grandsons outgrew them and are now waiting for the next batch of kiddies to enjoy, just throwing a coat of good wax on them every few months is basically the secret and maybe getting them out of the elements couldn't hurt.
Just for info I have an extensive background in aircraft coatings and spray painted most everything you saw at Disneyland from 1985 until 1994 when I finally quite painting and got into Environmental Compliance for them until I retired in 2011.
Hey Larry, Thanks for your feedback. Yes, the acidic vinegar is a great way to wash the hardware prior to the tumbler. After doing this for several years I find its best to paint the bolts like you said. thanks for the view!
Harbor freight before work for a tumbler! Check!
Yea Dude!
Don't have a tumbler or anything like it
amzn.to/3YAzkYr
If you dont have crushed walnut shells human bone meal works just as well.
Well I’m glad I’m not the only one with Cherokee OCD!
Haha Definitely!!! How do you restore your hardware??
I started off using a wire wheel on a bench grinder then I found out about electrolysis and depending on the type of water do you have you could remove rust from anything.
@@holdthatdown6695 electrolysis is great. Especially on larger moving parts!
Let me just put some PLASTIC OIL into the PLASTIC BAG to cover the METAL items lmao. anyways good video
Why is that funny?
nice nuts
😊
done sub
Thank you!
a day or so? I thought 10 minutes would be acceptable.
The longer the better
So men of OCD meet again.
If not nooo good of that just hope there no head hardware in there o your penetrating selant looks a lot like leanseed god forbid it’s a faked type of offense oil 1 the acid reaction not quench Will rust then you have seize with no seize pertinent then you have broken head hardware hmm baking soda the most important but you also forgot the annealing process good luck with those no Wate the persons you sold it to not to mention the mechanic that has to work on it
Yes.. I forgot to include the nutralization process
Nice job but for the time spent it has to be cheaper to buy new nuts and bolts.
lol... This is for poor people like me. haha
@@ProjectDanHtime is money
@@ProjectDanH haha I'm the exact same way. Currently cleaning up an 88 Yamaha Moto 4 350 ATV. I'm not trying to make it a show quad but I like to give things a once over to clean/get familiar with it and fix things along the way. I have pretty bad OCD when it comes to cleaning stuff and that includes all the little nuts and bolts. Just wish there was an easy way to protect them from rusting that actually worked besides plating them because I really can't set up a meth lab at my house..