Downhill Cutter. I know this video is three years old. Thanks for this and your other productions. God's blessings on you as you continue to build with His fascinating Honey Makers.
I am learning a ton from you videos! Thanks for putting these together. With help from you and Dr. Leo I am taking a shot at building my own stuff; starting with the swarm trap and the frames.
Your wood working on the Layens frames is superb! I'm kind of jealous - I don't have quite the set up you do. I've built a total of 7 Layens hives for myself and I totally love them after using Langstroth style hives for 12 years. I'm planning on building another 10-20 for next season and expanding the apiary and setting up a 2nd bee yard. Using Langstroth I would probably not have the same outlook because time management would prevent it. With Layens, you can leave them bee for a while LOL - Keep up the good work!
Excellent work. I was thinking a jig would help and then you whipped it out and assembled the second Frame, nice. I thought Dr Leo used frames with vertical wires. I've never seen this style with the dowel. Better go to his site and check em out.
Hi Les, I don’t know if he has any pictures of the frames with the dowels, but I’m pretty sure I read about it on there or in one of the books he’s edited. They work great if not using foundation.
Another well thought out process. Thanks Bill. I hope you are being compensated enough for making these great videos so you can keep making more. You are very good at it. I subscribed after the first one I watched.
Grandpa Podge, Compensation for making bee videos would be great and maybe the channel will grow to that level one day. Until then, I have to survive on likes and positive feedback. Thanks for your support! Bill
Great video. The step by step was perfect. And, holy crap I bet OSHA was proud! I’ve never seen a home shop builder be so safety “compliant”. Sheesh. I’m too lazy and in a hurry to worry about my fingers that much. LOL
Thanks for the video Billy. Haven’t seen any recent videos. Hope all is going well. Quick jointer question if your still following this thread. I saw this video last winter. I have been cutting the step down on the side bars with a router and have had many close calls with that thing wood practically exploding. I was looking for an alternative when I found this video. I ordered a Grizzly 6” bench top jointer which I needed anyways as I build my hives out of 10” rough cut lumber. I haven’t had to build any frames until today. I must be missing something as the max depth on mine is 1/8”. In you video you say yo make 3 passes to take off the 1/4” on each side of the 2x4 but I’m not getting it. The first pass takes off a bit but only for the 11 13/16” the rest is still 1 1/2” so making another pass just cause the piece to tilt down giving a taper cut? Seemed so easy in your video but I must be an airhead today.
Hi Chris, If I didn't have a jointer, I would first rip them to the correct width on the table saw. Next, you could remove the material on each side using a router and a router table, a jigsaw, scroll saw, band saw, or a coping saw if only doing a few. Another option might be to use a belt or drum sander with a course grit paper. It may be possible to build a sled of sorts for your table saw that clamps each piece keeping your fingers away. I'm not sure how safe this would be and have never tried this. I hope this gives you some ideas. Let me know what you come up with!
Just finished building a Layens Hive and trying to figure out which frames to build. On the website it has one with wires and one with the dowel rod. any recommendations or information on the pros and cons? Thanks
Another thoughtfully done video; thanks! Have you had any problem with pieces warping after your final assembly? I've had a top bar and some side bars get some real twists in them. Was able to knock each apart and replace the worst pieces to straighten them out. You just don't get much out of your free, scrap building lumber anymore.
Hi John, I haven't had any warping at all for the first two years. I haven't gotten in the hives yet this year but I don't suspect there will be any change. I wonder what would cause them to twist. I don't imagine the wood was still green if they were building with it. Can't complain about free wood! Thanks for the kind words, BBB
You can rip that edge off or use it if you want, I’ve done it both ways. If you’re going to use it I always keep the rounded edge to the outside of the frame so the insides all meet like they are suppose to. Another option, you could rip off the rounded edge piece first the width of the bottom bar and use them exclusively for that piece.
Awesome how you walk us through each step, often with a why you are doing it a certain way. Much appreciated. (Just before you said it, I was thinking, I wonder if he ever put one of those staples into a finger? I bet it didn't feel too good. Was that a bit of an understatement?
Hi William, I've definitely have put nails and staples through body parts. I especially remember doing this in high school! I don't think I put any staples through my hands on this build, but I remember I put a splinter right through my finger making one of these videos. Thanks for the reply! BBB
Bill what do you think is the difference, if any of the wired frames or the ones with a central dowel ( or I just use a 5/8 square wooden rod)? I have noticed many videos with either but no one has talked about the advantages/ disadvantages of either. Thanks in advance.
Hi Terry, any time I have seen wired frames it was because they were using wax foundation. If you do not plan on using foundation, you shouldn't need the wire. I use the dowels and they work great for natural comb! I sometimes wonder if the dowel is even necessary because the comb adheres to the frame very well and once the bees are done capping the only way the comb will comb out is if cut. I have not thought of trying a square dowel, 5/8 might be a little thick though. I would think a square rod would work similarly. Hope this helps! Bill
Hi Paul, you might get away with 2-2x4s but defiantly less than 3 for 20 frames. I built all mine in bulk and I remember correctly I was getting 24 top bars from 1-2x4, that piece requires the most wood. Hope that helps!
Also curious! I don't own a joiner but want to build a layens hive. I was thinking about ripping 1/4 off each side and then using a jig saw to cut the debris off at a 45 degree angle.
@Das Farm, I haven't had any problems with one dowel although I haven't tried them in an extractor yet. It's on my list of things to try this year so I may change my mind!
Thank you for these videos, very instructional, you know, I havent been able to find honey extraction with these frames..if I decide to place foundation in the frames would that be the same device I would use with a langstroth frame?... any tips?
Hi Jason, I don't use an extractor currently as I only have 8-10 hives. If I was going to get one I would look first at Dr. Leo's website as I know he sells one that works with these frames. From what I've read, you should be able to also use an extractor for natural comb but I have no experience with this. Good luck!
Now those are some very stout hives. I believe a colony will standard a much better chance to over winter in those compared to the standard hive, thanks for the info and videos great job....
Hi Bill, Great videos on the Layen's hive builds, thanks for putting the work in to show how you did it. If you can remember, it'd be great to know how many frames you got out of one 2x4. I'm trying to do a cost rundown for my winter builds, and can find detailed info on how much material is used for the hive, traps, roof etc, but nothing on the frames themselves. 2x4's aren't that expensive, but it would be nice to have an estimate of how many I'll need. Thanks in advance!
Hi Doggirl211, I just saw the second part of your post. I'm not exactly sure how many frames came out of one 2x4 but it seemed like I was buying another stack every week. You could get a pretty good guess by figuring an extra 1/8" for each cut as that is the width of the kerf for most table saw blades. For instance, if you are ripping the top bars at 3/4" add an extra 1/8" to your calculations to get 7/8". If you are using standard 2x4's that are 3.5" wide you should be able to get 6x4=24 top bars from one 2x4x8. If you did this for the sides and the bottoms you would know exactly how many you needed for your project. Hope this helps! Bill
That;s a wonderful video, Bill! Thanks for putting it together.... Love the detailed, step-by-step, clear instructions and tips.... question: maybe you have mentioned it somewhere else, but what model is your table saw? Love the big work plan.....
Concern consideration: Using unknown treated wood and glue. How do we know if it is safe for bees over time (leaching of chemicals, etc). Is it possible to get untreated wood?
Holy shit.. Looking for bee keeping videos, didn't know I'd be getting tips from Game of Thrones very own Samwell Tarly. :-) Excellent video though. Thanks for the info. I'm looking to get into bee keeping on my farm. Maybe as soon as next spring. We shall see.
Hi Jack. These will fit some extractors. I know Dr Leo sells one specific for these. You can find it here: horizontalhive.com/buy-hive-bees/swarm-trap-top-bar-sale.shtml
@@BeeBoyBill I'm just getting into beekeeping and bought an extractor that is too small for Layens frames. I was wondering, if we're making hives, do you see any problems with altering the plans to make them narrow enough to fit into a standard extractor?
Hi Berniesat. I have seen all kinds of hive designs with various frame sizes. You could certainly design a hive by was horizontal in nature that took langstroth frames. I’ve also seen a design using two Lang frames zipped tied together to create a deep horizontal hive. I personally don’t use an extractor to process honey, but they do make extractors large enough for the Layens frames too. Hope this helps and welcome to the exciting world of beekeeping!
You could totally build your hives narrow enough for that. And basically have extra deep langstroth frames. Not sure if that would fit in the extractor. I am planning on using the crush and strain method and making candles out of the wax. Mostly because I am going to start out with just a few hives.
I have to ask, but if bee space is between 1/4" and 3/8", wouldn't it be best to take a maximum of 3/16 off the 2 edges of the side bars for as total of 3/8" gap, rather than the 1/4" mentioned for a total of 1/2"? Wouldn't the 1/2" promote cross-combing?
Hi Fogtripper. So far I haven't noticed any cross combing that was because of this. I have had cross combing due to mistakes I made when feeding package bees but that was due to leaving out frames. If the hive is completely level and the bees started in the right place, they follow gravity when they festoon and build directly downward. I always level and level again! Hope this helps, let me know if you try a version with 3/16" it would def save some time on the jointer if this works.
Hi ExarKenneth, I'm thinking it was around $45-50/hive +/- frames. This included the delivery of the wood because I do not have a truck. I also remember I found the best use of lumber was to build 8 hives at a time. I'll put a cost breakdown on my list for future videos. Thanks for watching!
Is your jointer able to remove 1/4"? My jointer isn't able to remove more than 1/8" and I'm wondering if there is a way to work around that. I am no woodworker so if anybody has any ideas, I'd love to hear them!
Hi Mrs. Wray, I'm not sure what it would cost. I used 2x4s because they were the cheapest at the time. Also, lumber prices near me tripled lately. What I usually do when I plan a building project is check the local store prices online and build a spreadsheet to calculate overall cost. Hope this helps!
Great video! Anyone have any tips on how to cut the rabbit on the top bar without a dado blade. Currently using a community woodshop without the ability to swap out the table saw blade
I’ve cut mine on my table saw without a dado blade. Just put the blade up 3/8” and the blade 1 1/16” from the outside of the blade then then using the miter gage to slide it over the blade moving the top bar back towards the blade for each pass. Yesterday I just did 51 on a band saw I bout used off FB market. I liked using that better.
Hi Rain Coast, I did use staples in the frames if you are talking about 9:06 in the video. I think staples work great for these. I imagine nails would work too but might not hold as well. If you were talking about another part of the video let me know and I'll take another look at it! Thanks
@@BeeBoyBill Hi again, i don't have bees yet but am looking to buy a place and then move forward with that. A friend of mine as six hives and we are constantly talking about bees. It would be interesting to see the swarm traps in trees. I have watched Brown's Beef and Bees and he makes a similar trap. Also a video or talk about extracting honey using your frame type. I also liked the vid you made about building the frames. Thanks.
Jim Smylie I bought it at harbor freight years ago. Basically the cheapest I could find at the time. Not sure if they still carry it, but it’s cast iron w 6” blades. “Central Machinery item #30289” 3450rpm. Hope that helps!
Are you able to remove enough wood to get the 3/8" beespace between frames? Never used one, but it looks a lot easier than using a router on each piece.
You can adjust the jointer to remove a little on each pass. I make 3 passes of just over sixteenth inch increments to remove 1/4" on each side and take a 2x4 down to 1" thick for the thinner part of the frames. The space between 2 Layen's frames ends up being about 1/2" I tried a router and I didn't like the results at all. If all I had was a router I would probably make due but the jointer works great!
Hi gwtill, I didn't use wire because I'm not using foundation. If I remember correctly, this was in the plans for Dr. Leo's frames. Thanks for your comment!
I was actually talking about making the layen’shive like you built for yourself. I knew about Dr Leo sale of frame. I asked my question on the wrong video. I really admire your methodology in wood working and your neetness. Reminds me of my uncles. I live in Canada near Ottawa and Dr Leo does not deliver outside of the U S. That is why I was asking you. I know Dr Leo sells the Plans. I could get someone around here to make a few up but I think they need to be good woodworkers because of the precision required and I don’t know anyone that I could trust to do the job. Thank you just the same.
![🐝 How to Build a Layen's Frame with One Saw! [Using a Jig]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9aoCe0LW3zI/mqdefault.jpg)
![🐝 How to Build a Layen's Frame with One Saw! [Using a Jig]](/img/tr.png)
Downhill Cutter. I know this video is three years old. Thanks for this and your other productions. God's blessings on you as you continue to build with His fascinating Honey Makers.
Thanks Jerry!
I am learning a ton from you videos! Thanks for putting these together. With help from you and Dr. Leo I am taking a shot at building my own stuff; starting with the swarm trap and the frames.
I followed the breadcrumbs that UA-cam algorithm left me after watching off Doug & Stacy's channel with Dr. Leo talking about these hives.
Your wood working on the Layens frames is superb! I'm kind of jealous - I don't have quite the set up you do. I've built a total of 7 Layens hives for myself and I totally love them after using Langstroth style hives for 12 years. I'm planning on building another 10-20 for next season and expanding the apiary and setting up a 2nd bee yard. Using Langstroth I would probably not have the same outlook because time management would prevent it. With Layens, you can leave them bee for a while LOL - Keep up the good work!
Thanks!
I loved the video. I've already made a few dozen frames, but I learned a lot from this video that could help me speed up that process by a lot. Thanks
Glad it helped with your builds!
Excellent work. I was thinking a jig would help and then you whipped it out and assembled the second Frame, nice. I thought Dr Leo used frames with vertical wires. I've never seen this style with the dowel. Better go to his site and check em out.
Hi Les, I don’t know if he has any pictures of the frames with the dowels, but I’m pretty sure I read about it on there or in one of the books he’s edited. They work great if not using foundation.
Super informative! May I ask how you keep the jointer from tapering the side bars? Does your jointer do 1/4” cuts? Mine maxes at 1/8” unfortunately
Another well thought out process. Thanks Bill. I hope you are being compensated enough for making these great videos so you can keep making more. You are very good at it. I subscribed after the first one I watched.
Grandpa Podge,
Compensation for making bee videos would be great and maybe the channel will grow to that level one day. Until then, I have to survive on likes and positive feedback.
Thanks for your support!
Bill
Great video. The step by step was perfect. And, holy crap I bet OSHA was proud! I’ve never seen a home shop builder be so safety “compliant”. Sheesh. I’m too lazy and in a hurry to worry about my fingers that much. LOL
Thanks for the video Billy. Haven’t seen any recent videos. Hope all is going well.
Quick jointer question if your still following this thread.
I saw this video last winter. I have been cutting the step down on the side bars with a router and have had many close calls with that thing wood practically exploding. I was looking for an alternative when I found this video.
I ordered a Grizzly 6” bench top jointer which I needed anyways as I build my hives out of 10” rough cut lumber.
I haven’t had to build any frames until today. I must be missing something as the max depth on mine is 1/8”. In you video you say yo make 3 passes to take off the 1/4” on each side of the 2x4 but I’m not getting it. The first pass takes off a bit but only for the 11 13/16” the rest is still 1 1/2” so making another pass just cause the piece to tilt down giving a taper cut?
Seemed so easy in your video but I must be an airhead today.
Thank you for sharing this info in detail. May heaven on your side.
Do you have a recommendation on removing the material on the side pieces, if you don't have a joiner? I have a table saw, and miter saw.
Hi Chris,
If I didn't have a jointer, I would first rip them to the correct width on the table saw. Next, you could remove the material on each side using a router and a router table, a jigsaw, scroll saw, band saw, or a coping saw if only doing a few. Another option might be to use a belt or drum sander with a course grit paper.
It may be possible to build a sled of sorts for your table saw that clamps each piece keeping your fingers away. I'm not sure how safe this would be and have never tried this.
I hope this gives you some ideas. Let me know what you come up with!
I appreciate the facts and straight to the point. Very helpful. Great video
Thanks for your comment!
Just finished building a Layens Hive and trying to figure out which frames to build. On the website it has one with wires and one with the dowel rod. any recommendations or information on the pros and cons? Thanks
Hi Alex, wires id you are using foundation, dowels if you are doing natural comb.
Hey Bill, I don’t know if you’ve ever timed yourself, but how long do you think it would take you to make about 100 frames?
Another thoughtfully done video; thanks! Have you had any problem with pieces warping after your final assembly? I've had a top bar and some side bars get some real twists in them. Was able to knock each apart and replace the worst pieces to straighten them out. You just don't get much out of your free, scrap building lumber anymore.
Hi John,
I haven't had any warping at all for the first two years. I haven't gotten in the hives yet this year but I don't suspect there will be any change.
I wonder what would cause them to twist. I don't imagine the wood was still green if they were building with it. Can't complain about free wood!
Thanks for the kind words,
BBB
This video is super helpful. How did you manage the rounded corners on the first ripped strip of the 2x4? Did you just not worry about them?
You can rip that edge off or use it if you want, I’ve done it both ways. If you’re going to use it I always keep the rounded edge to the outside of the frame so the insides all meet like they are suppose to. Another option, you could rip off the rounded edge piece first the width of the bottom bar and use them exclusively for that piece.
@@BeeBoyBill Thanks! That makes sense. I appreciate the reply.
What kind of wood do you use, white oak, pine, cherry, popular, basswood?
Awesome how you walk us through each step, often with a why you are doing it a certain way. Much appreciated. (Just before you said it, I was thinking, I wonder if he ever put one of those staples into a finger? I bet it didn't feel too good. Was that a bit of an understatement?
Hi William,
I've definitely have put nails and staples through body parts. I especially remember doing this in high school! I don't think I put any staples through my hands on this build, but I remember I put a splinter right through my finger making one of these videos.
Thanks for the reply!
BBB
Bill what do you think is the difference, if any of the wired frames or the ones with a central dowel ( or I just use a 5/8 square wooden rod)? I have noticed many videos with either but no one has talked about the advantages/ disadvantages of either. Thanks in advance.
Hi Terry, any time I have seen wired frames it was because they were using wax foundation. If you do not plan on using foundation, you shouldn't need the wire. I use the dowels and they work great for natural comb! I sometimes wonder if the dowel is even necessary because the comb adheres to the frame very well and once the bees are done capping the only way the comb will comb out is if cut.
I have not thought of trying a square dowel, 5/8 might be a little thick though. I would think a square rod would work similarly.
Hope this helps!
Bill
Hi Bill, how much 4x2 timber do you need to build 20 Layens Frames your way?
Hi Paul, you might get away with 2-2x4s but defiantly less than 3 for 20 frames. I built all mine in bulk and I remember correctly I was getting 24 top bars from 1-2x4, that piece requires the most wood. Hope that helps!
Thanks Bill, I presume they were 8 feet long?
Can I build my frame ends with a taper instead of using a jointer to take a 1/4" off?
Also curious! I don't own a joiner but want to build a layens hive. I was thinking about ripping 1/4 off each side and then using a jig saw to cut the debris off at a 45 degree angle.
Have you had any issues with just one dowel rod? Or would it be overkill to have two?
@Das Farm, I haven't had any problems with one dowel although I haven't tried them in an extractor yet. It's on my list of things to try this year so I may change my mind!
That intro!!!!! You win the internet today.
Hi Forrest, Thanks for the props!
Thank you for these videos, very instructional, you know, I havent been able to find honey extraction with these frames..if I decide to place foundation in the frames would that be the same device I would use with a langstroth frame?... any tips?
Hi Jason, I don't use an extractor currently as I only have 8-10 hives. If I was going to get one I would look first at Dr. Leo's website as I know he sells one that works with these frames. From what I've read, you should be able to also use an extractor for natural comb but I have no experience with this. Good luck!
Thank you sir, perfect, just what I was looking for.
Now those are some very stout hives. I believe a colony will standard a much better chance to over winter in those compared to the standard hive, thanks for the info and videos great job....
Thanks for your support!
Hi Bill,
Great videos on the Layen's hive builds, thanks for putting the work in to show how you did it.
If you can remember, it'd be great to know how many frames you got out of one 2x4. I'm trying to do a cost rundown for my winter builds, and can find detailed info on how much material is used for the hive, traps, roof etc, but nothing on the frames themselves. 2x4's aren't that expensive, but it would be nice to have an estimate of how many I'll need. Thanks in advance!
Thanks for the support!
Hi Doggirl211,
I just saw the second part of your post. I'm not exactly sure how many frames came out of one 2x4 but it seemed like I was buying another stack every week.
You could get a pretty good guess by figuring an extra 1/8" for each cut as that is the width of the kerf for most table saw blades. For instance, if you are ripping the top bars at 3/4" add an extra 1/8" to your calculations to get 7/8". If you are using standard 2x4's that are 3.5" wide you should be able to get 6x4=24 top bars from one 2x4x8.
If you did this for the sides and the bottoms you would know exactly how many you needed for your project.
Hope this helps!
Bill
@@BeeBoyBill thanks so much for the reply, very helpful!
Clear, concise, and detailed. Thanks!!
That;s a wonderful video, Bill! Thanks for putting it together.... Love the detailed, step-by-step, clear instructions and tips....
question: maybe you have mentioned it somewhere else, but what model is your table saw? Love the big work plan.....
Hi Nathalie, thanks for the kind word. The big table saw is a craftsman 152.221140 Hope that helps!
Concern consideration: Using unknown treated wood and glue. How do we know if it is safe for bees over time (leaching of chemicals, etc). Is it possible to get untreated wood?
Holy shit.. Looking for bee keeping videos, didn't know I'd be getting tips from Game of Thrones very own Samwell Tarly. :-)
Excellent video though. Thanks for the info. I'm looking to get into bee keeping on my farm. Maybe as soon as next spring. We shall see.
Haha, haven’t heard that one before.
Thanks for the great video. Just wondering if the frames will fit in a honey extractor?
Hi Jack. These will fit some extractors. I know Dr Leo sells one specific for these. You can find it here: horizontalhive.com/buy-hive-bees/swarm-trap-top-bar-sale.shtml
@@BeeBoyBill I'm just getting into beekeeping and bought an extractor that is too small for Layens frames. I was wondering, if we're making hives, do you see any problems with altering the plans to make them narrow enough to fit into a standard extractor?
Hi Berniesat. I have seen all kinds of hive designs with various frame sizes. You could certainly design a hive by was horizontal in nature that took langstroth frames. I’ve also seen a design using two Lang frames zipped tied together to create a deep horizontal hive. I personally don’t use an extractor to process honey, but they do make extractors large enough for the Layens frames too. Hope this helps and welcome to the exciting world of beekeeping!
@@BeeBoyBill Thank you brother. Great video.
You could totally build your hives narrow enough for that. And basically have extra deep langstroth frames. Not sure if that would fit in the extractor. I am planning on using the crush and strain method and making candles out of the wax. Mostly because I am going to start out with just a few hives.
I have to ask, but if bee space is between 1/4" and 3/8", wouldn't it be best to take a maximum of 3/16 off the 2 edges of the side bars for as total of 3/8" gap, rather than the 1/4" mentioned for a total of 1/2"? Wouldn't the 1/2" promote cross-combing?
Hi Fogtripper. So far I haven't noticed any cross combing that was because of this. I have had cross combing due to mistakes I made when feeding package bees but that was due to leaving out frames. If the hive is completely level and the bees started in the right place, they follow gravity when they festoon and build directly downward. I always level and level again! Hope this helps, let me know if you try a version with 3/16" it would def save some time on the jointer if this works.
Besides staples, what can you use to talk the frame together?
You could probably use a finishing nail and glue.
Can you make these and put foundation in them ?
If you don't mind could you tell me how much money did you have in a completed Hive.
Hi ExarKenneth,
I'm thinking it was around $45-50/hive +/- frames. This included the delivery of the wood because I do not have a truck. I also remember I found the best use of lumber was to build 8 hives at a time. I'll put a cost breakdown on my list for future videos. Thanks for watching!
THANKYOU so much this is awesomely taught .Much appreciated
Dude, perfect. Thank you.
Is your jointer able to remove 1/4"? My jointer isn't able to remove more than 1/8" and I'm wondering if there is a way to work around that. I am no woodworker so if anybody has any ideas, I'd love to hear them!
I make multiple passes on each piece. 1/4” is a lot, mine couldn’t handle it.
@@BeeBoyBill thanks for the info!
Bill what model/ type of table saw is that.
What is the wood pusher called that your using on the table saw?
I think you’re asking about Grt-ripper. I have a link to the one I’m using in the description. It works great! Hope that helps
@@BeeBoyBill yep I was talking about your fancy wood pusher I gotta get one of those....
@@BeeBoyBill nice video btw...
Thanks!
Yeah, I had a couple of close calls when I was using home made pushers. That grr-ripper is pretty slick
How much do you think it will cost in materials to build 60 frames?
Hi Mrs. Wray, I'm not sure what it would cost. I used 2x4s because they were the cheapest at the time. Also, lumber prices near me tripled lately. What I usually do when I plan a building project is check the local store prices online and build a spreadsheet to calculate overall cost. Hope this helps!
It absolutely does! Thank you!
Great video! Anyone have any tips on how to cut the rabbit on the top bar without a dado blade. Currently using a community woodshop without the ability to swap out the table saw blade
I’ve cut mine on my table saw without a dado blade. Just put the blade up 3/8” and the blade 1 1/16” from the outside of the blade then then using the miter gage to slide it over the blade moving the top bar back towards the blade for each pass.
Yesterday I just did 51 on a band saw I bout used off FB market. I liked using that better.
Great video very helpful
Are those staples 1 inch by 1/4
Most likely. I can’t remember what I used for the video, but I try to use the longest I have on hand for the frames.
What are your thoughts on using staples instead of nails? Thanks for posting.
Hi Rain Coast, I did use staples in the frames if you are talking about 9:06 in the video. I think staples work great for these. I imagine nails would work too but might not hold as well. If you were talking about another part of the video let me know and I'll take another look at it! Thanks
@@BeeBoyBill Thanks for your reply. I am watching your swarm trap build at the moment. You have a great channel, you should keep making videos.
Thanks! I’m hoping to do some more videos when time allows. Is there something in particular you would like to see a video on?
@@BeeBoyBill Hi again, i don't have bees yet but am looking to buy a place and then move forward with that. A friend of mine as six hives and we are constantly talking about bees. It would be interesting to see the swarm traps in trees. I have watched Brown's Beef and Bees and he makes a similar trap. Also a video or talk about extracting honey using your frame type. I also liked the vid you made about building the frames.
Thanks.
Consider waxing the inside of the frame including starter strip and Dowell to make the frames more acceptable to the bees.
What make/model is your joiner/planer?
Jim Smylie I bought it at harbor freight years ago. Basically the cheapest I could find at the time. Not sure if they still carry it, but it’s cast iron w 6” blades. “Central Machinery item #30289” 3450rpm. Hope that helps!
Are you able to remove enough wood to get the 3/8" beespace between frames? Never used one, but it looks a lot easier than using a router on each piece.
You can adjust the jointer to remove a little on each pass. I make 3 passes of just over sixteenth inch increments to remove 1/4" on each side and take a 2x4 down to 1" thick for the thinner part of the frames. The space between 2 Layen's frames ends up being about 1/2"
I tried a router and I didn't like the results at all. If all I had was a router I would probably make due but the jointer works great!
I miss your videos sir. I hope all is well.
Do you sell frames? How much for 500?
Hi Nelson. I do not sell frames, but I know they do at horizontalhive dot com
What if you don't have a jointer?
Hi Michael, you could rip the sides first and then use a router table, a band saw, or a scroll saw. Hope that helps! BBB
Excellent Bravo!!
bambo skewers work good for the dowel
Boa noite qual o tamanhos dos quadros
Why did you use a dowel instead of the wire as shown on Dr. Leo’s site?
Hi gwtill, I didn't use wire because I'm not using foundation. If I remember correctly, this was in the plans for Dr. Leo's frames. Thanks for your comment!
Bee Boy Bill Thanks so much for your reply. Loved your video!
@@BeeBoyBill Hi, Great video. How do the dowels perform? It looks a lot simpler than the wire.
Ron Swanson couldn’t be prouder!
Ha. I had to look up Ron Swanson.
Well for crying out loud. I was wondering how to make side bars, and it never occurred to me to use the jointer.
I'm bee boy bill and I have a second job voicing Joe on family guy.
Do you make this to sell?
Hi Suzanne, I haven't made enough frames yet to consider selling, my main purpose is to build enough for my current setup.
I was actually talking about making the layen’shive like you built for yourself. I knew about Dr Leo sale of frame. I asked my question on the wrong video. I really admire your methodology in wood working and your neetness. Reminds me of my uncles. I live in Canada near Ottawa and Dr Leo does not deliver outside of the U S. That is why I was asking you. I know Dr Leo sells the Plans. I could get someone around here to make a few up but I think they need to be good woodworkers because of the precision required and I don’t know anyone that I could trust to do the job.
Thank you just the same.
Love the video but it's like watching an alternative universe where Ricky from the trailer park boys is a decent person keeping bees.
If I could only get some help from Cory and Trevor...