Focus ST clutch pedal replacement, master cylinder, how to 2014
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- Some insight to replacing your clutch master cylinder or clutch pedal assembly on a Ford Focus ST. Mine is a 2014.
2.0L Ecoboost I-4 Turbo, gas, direct-injected.
On 2016 st, took seat out ,did not take dash parts loose ,did not take steering loose, top bolt i used 1/4 inch small ratchet with adapter to 1/2 inch 13 deep socket , with seat out ,you can put down cushion lay out and get to it , seat is easy to take out than air bag and dash parts , work gently pulling unit to left and out ,yes top senor pops off during removing , but going back ,that piece of metal is in the weigh ,BIG TIME! after two hours of trying all different ways ,senors on or off ,i took my mini millwakee m12 sawzall and cut about 1/2 inch off the useless piece of metal !! then it went right in!
Yes but this mate saved my night only because this clip but you’re right I didn’t lose anything only the 4 bolts from the pedal (2016)
Greetings from Germany
I needed 1 1/2 hours for all ( I’m a mechanic)
Oooooo. Thank you very much brother!!! It is the way.
Where did you buy it from, im noticing a lot of them with out the plug for the push start
FORD DEALER , NOT FAMILER WITH PLUG WITH PUSH START. SORRY THIS WAS ON 2016.@@lorim2079
Look into removing the lower dash. If you can remove it completely to the point where you have to unplug the lights then you're pretty much set to go. That's what really held me back.
The rest of the work is fairly simple. I will try to find the video I watched to give you some additional info too.
I also spent a good amount of time trying to find where the lines went through the firewall, but I've covered that in this video too.
Trust me though about getting the lower dash off, that's the key.
Ford wanted $1,100. I paid $90 for the pedal/master cylinder. And it's a FoMoCo part, an exact replacement.
I needs to perform this on my 13 focus. Is there a vid i can see to remove the lower dash?? This vid is still good info.
😊😛❤😊😊😊😊
Need to remove the lower dash, and then you won't have trouble with the wiring, switches, etc.
To remove, take off the steering wheel column shrouds, then you remove the air ducting (one bolt on the bottom). You will then be able to reach the two 10mm nuts holding the airbag in place. Once airbag is removed you can fully remove the lower dash.
I just did this job - but got screwy when I went to bleed it and found that I was missing a small rubber piece that seals the hardline into the master. Now have to find a new piece before I can get it all back together :(
Thanks man. Needed that info
And...from what I've seen in other posts...that rubber seal is not available by itself so you have to buy the whole line. Hopefully you can grab one from a donar car of any platform similar at a Pick-n-Pull lol
Hay mate, i found it easy to remove the whole steering column. Plus i removed the driver seat, was a lot easier, .....
Hi I conquered this, was a absolute nightmare, especially the hard bolt at the least top, ...getting it out also was a headache, ,now for the fun bite is to reinstall, ..i had a crack, was a nightmare also, .....a few whiskeys keep me calm, another day at it, tomorrow hopefully finish the nightmare, i see your point
Getting the master cylinder and pedal out is actually fairly easy. Both sensors on the pedal side can be put on once the pedal is mounted, pay attention to how they go on once you have the assembly out and put them on once it's in the car, you mostly go by feel
Donde consigo el vídeo de cómo sacar la pedalera
Great video Dan thanks for the head up, I'm changing one on a right hand drive which I think maybe a little easier
I appreciate that. Let us all know if it is easier. The hard part was that gosh darn switch. Just get the under part of the dash apart and you're golden.
When you took the hard line out of the slave cylinder was the rubber oring thing on the plastic collet on the hard line or inside the slave??? Please read my I need help lol🙏🙏
Just put the o-ring between the slave cylinder and the line it connects to.
Hey, Dan Gleason. fairly fun video. thank. :)
hi, i have the same car and i hear a little clic when i press the pedal, now that clic its a lot louder and i dont know what can it be and how to repair... do you know how?
I don't remember having a click when all of this went wrong. The thing that gave it all away was the fact there was brake fluid dripping and a puddle under the clutch pedal.
Ask some other commenters on here if they had a click or not.
Try step on foot rest with same force, if same click sound then it’s seat problem which is way better to solve. Happened to me and I just replaced Ford performance shifter, wasting couple hours finding out that’s the seat can’t handle pressure when step on clutch, omfg Ford. Hope this helps
Donde esta el otro video donde puedo sacar la pedalera para cambiar el cilindro quiero ver eso
E o que eu preciso tbm
Im in the process of replacing mine, just seen the top bolt, I'm having nightmares just to think about it ..
..
All you need are lots of extensions to reach all the way through. Like I showed the double or triple extension. I had to borrow my neighbors too.
@@dangleason9023 Kool extensions isn't the problem, i recently purchased the car from Gray's on line, i was told the muster cylinder was (stuffed)....., excuse my French, hehe , just Australian slang ......i have the turbo diesel model, ..i was also told could be the spring that seats on the top clutch pedal, i don't think it as 1, apart from the spring near the clutch pedal,...
I found it easy to remove the who steering wheel column, took me 10minutes ....then simply removed the plug , ect
Where did you buy the clutch pedal at
I just replaced my master clutch cylinder but I’m having a problem on bleeding it. It’s not pushing any fluid threw the lines. I’m pumping it for a while and once I open the bleeder no air nor fluid comes out, I did the process for a solid hr and nothing :(
Be sure your brake fluid cap in ON and tight before you start bleeding. I think the clutch openly pulls from the reservoir.
Fill up that reservoir, tighten the cap and try it then. You might just be pushing fluid back up in the reservoir everything you push it down. First few times you have to pull the clutch back out. But with that cap on it'll start pushing back at you. Let me know if that works.
Unscrew that bleeder until it comes all the way out and let it gravity bleed for a while. I think I remember having to turn it quite a lot to actually break the seal.
Thanks from iraq i have ford focus 2006
Since you cut the connector any codes? since PCM pulls volts from these switches?
It didn't throw any codes, but it didn't bump the throttle upon a slow take off.
So I ended up putting it back in. I wouldn't cut it, even in a pinch, just stick a paper clip in there.
Why did you have to change out the master cylinder? What problems were you having?
There was a puddle of brake fluid/clutch fluid on my floor mat one morning. The pedal plunger had sprung a leak. Continued to drip on my shoes while driving to get more brake fluid and order a new pedal.
There were no driving issues other than a serious leak if left untreated.
@@dangleason9023 This is what i came to this morning when I started my car...found a small bit of fluid dripping down onto my weather mats. I can see it seeping out of the plunger/rubber piece at the firewall when I depress the clutch pedal. So here I am...2016 though..so people have to be very careful of which part number they buy.
2014/earlier uses DV6Z-7519-A
15+ uses BV6Z-7519-AR (this one has a sensor that if you dont use the right part number, the car will have issues and wont even turn off)
Thanks for the video, any chance you can make a video on how to flush the coolant? Searched on youtube and can't find any for FoST.
I'm not sure I would actually FLUSH the coolant because I'd be doing the work myself. What I plan to do is drain as much as possible from either the lower radiator drain or hose, let it drain until it stops, then start the engine and run it for 10 seconds (not long or you'll burn up the water pump). Put it back together and just add fluid until the reservoir is to the full line.
Initially with the radiator cap open to release any air (air in the system is always a problem). Just keep adding fluid til she's full.
You can usually let it idle while you add your fluid to ensure it fills and the other parts of the system.
A flush includes a special hose and suction system where it really runs fluid through many many times.
You can essentially do the same thing by changing the fluid in this way several times.
Watch "Chris Fix: coolant flush" he does a great job.
Why did you replace it?
I had to replace it because it had developed a leak inside the cabin where the pedal mechanism goes through the fire-wall.
Brake fluid leaking each time I pressed in the clutch. Not something you want to run out of fluid on. Yikes.
@@dangleason9023 thank you for replying. My 2014 clutch pedal has just hit the stop under the steering wheel(effectively going full up) no one has answers for me. Clutch and trans operate normal. Just allot of play in the pedal
@@seanmccabe9766 so the pedal even when removed has its own spring and wants to either be depressed or compressed.
You may have busted either a stop or where that spring connects. IDR if it was exposed or inside of something but look to see if there is a broken piece of plastic.
@@dangleason9023 thanks. I looked everywhere. Couldn't see anything broken
My 2013 focus st is leaking brake fluid from the clutch pedal. The carpet is soak in that area...
Maybe have the dealer do it ?
What do you recommend?
Car has 83k miles, thanks in advance
What did u do? Im
Facing the same problem
Did you bled the clutch from the nipple you show at the end of the video? Or you just did'nt?
Yes I did, first I did a gravity bleed with the brake fluid reservoir open, gave that a few minutes, then got my partner and bled it just like brakes.
The weirdest part was that you could push the pedal to the ground and it would stay there, so you'll want to top off the brake fluid and close the cap, then begin the active bleeding by pressing the pedal.
The first few times you may have to pull the clutch pedal out, do it as slowly as you can, after a few times it will firm up and the spring will act normally.
Weirdly there were a lot of turns to open the bleeder, not the 40% turn like on a brake caliper, we're talking several turns.
Definitely gotta bleed it.
Think a vac bleeder would work better than pumping?
@@dangleason9023 Thank you so much for the explanation. Just saw your commentary, YT didn't notify me. This will be extremely useful as I plan to execute clutch bleeding on my Fiesta too.
@@fedeolivieri2038 I'm reading through all of these comments again....If you need more help let me know, but heed the advisories in the video. Others have good input too. Good luck!
i cut that metal piece with a grinder
hell no, do set bobo really nice video hahahaha
nightmare , 20x worse than my 2002 Focus.
You re traumatising....I did this work(with losing the f..., little grometh , searching and find it, eventually😀😶)...in 2 hours...
All you need is perfect extension tools and attention.
I changed this in one hour dog come on