Great video. It's important to note that you're lucky you didn't damage the GPU. You de-lidded it from the wrong side. Had you gone in from the opposite side, there are no resistors. The side you came in on, there are resistors which you could have easily damaged
@@timdark9282 got it ty. Tried dental floss for CPU and the adhesive is too hard for the floss to cut through so stuck with the sanded painters knife and yeah you gotta apply a good bit of pressure. Only cut myself 3 times lol. will see if it works tmrw
@@vincent.416 yes I also use the painters knife, you need to initially apply a fair bit of pressure to cut into the silicone but once your in its all about being careful and applying even pressure.
Pro-tip, to clean the IHS and Heatsink and remove all impurities, use spray on Electrical Contact Cleaner with lint free paper towels. It will clean far better than Isopropyl Alcohol and you will get slightly better contact with fresh paste. The Contact cleaner dissolves old paste really quickly which gets into the small imperfections and allows the new thermal paste to occupy that space. Electric Contact Cleaner is amazing stuff and is also useful with fixing dirty USB ports and cleaning up liquid damaged electronics.
it was actually discovered a while ago the main cause of the ylod is the 90nm rsx chip dyeing as they were produced by nvidia around the time of the bumpgate scandel. But now you essentially prevent the ylod by getting a 40nm rsx from the slim reballed onto your backwards compatible unit. I own one of these 40nm systems and the fan never gets to top speed and the system only ever gets moderately warm after hours of use compared to my og unit where the system would go to max speed within like 10 mins of even just running a ps2 game
@@ultimatespidybawlz2198 you have no clue what you talking about, the PS3 only Has an Jet Fan due to the Cell Never the RSX, If PS3 had it's fan running at high speed due to RSX then PS3 would Never have defect on Rsx
Always good getting the system cooler. With the backwards compatible ps3s its not a matter if, but when they die. so making them last as long as possible is great!
It’s not recommend to overclock the RSX as it would decrease it’s reliability. I used trimmed down paint knives to delid my Xbox 360 E and PS3 including the southbridge on the PS3. For my Wii and Wii U i used an even thinner knife set. To further improve the cooling on the PS3 i recommend replacing the old thermal pads. I used Arctic pads which took some degrees off. The temp difference with Liquid Metal is insane.
NO! Lo mejor es utilizar Thermal Paste, debido a que tengo entendido Liquid Metal tiende a corroer superficies de aluminio. Si aún así decides usar Liquid Metal, entonces sugiero la Arctic 5, la cual no es conductora de electricidad y por lo tanto, más segura. REPiTO: NO ES SUGERIBLE en el PS3, mejor Thermal Paste Arctic 4.
No need to heat it up, CPU hold thermal glue and RSX silicon which both have +250 C tolerance. Just need very thin and sharp tool (i use painting spatula) and a drop of silicon oil.
Heat softens the silicon making it easier to cut, you want to avoid is much sideways sheer force as possible (the BGA isn’t very well made on older ps3).
Just info, you can applied some conformal coating on the board around the chip with liquid metal. Just to be safe. Anyway, isn't the heatsink pad (where the RSX and CELL land on it) made of aluminum? is it safe for it to be exposed on liquid metal?
Great videos, I was considering doing this to my own PS3, but I get mixed answers on the longevity of Liquid Metal. How often would you have to replace it if at all?
I know this video is old but I really hope you didn't kill your ps3 with this. It's REALLY unwise to leave the liquid metal on the die without any sort of surrounding material to block it from flowing onto the motherboard beneath it. Everyone who ever worked with liquid metal knows that. (or SHOULD know that) Even if you never ever put your ps3 vertical. There's still a very real chance it'll flow onto the small components right next to the die. And then you'll have your house fire (or just a heavy paper weight).
Nice job! I was doing one of these once and had my hand fling like you did and knocked a capacitor off I still have the capacitor and the unit and I've yet to try and put the capacitor back on but I'm going to attempted this week I doubt it's going to work though.
Liquid Metal is stupid on a PS3 , the heat spreaders & CPU/GPU die's are not made to take liquid metal ! Aluminium doesn't react well , also there's no all copper surface with coating to stop the liquid metal under heat from usage to Stop it from encrusted into the surface of all 3 , the die , heatspeader & heatsinks . Just use really good thermal paste . If you want to cool the phat better add a small 40mm 5v blower fan to the front of the Power supply & connect to Blu Ray power connection on board . This will blow the heat straight out the back from the power supply . Check NSC on YT for the tutorial .
I love my PS3 but it overheats and double-beeps. Would using liquid metal possibly be a permanent fix for overheating? (i heard it doesn't dry out) I'm a noob at these sort of things
all the thermal paste renewal, and unlidding is cool, but I saw no one work on the heatpipes, and heatsink thermal conductivity...it wuld be cool to see those improvements...
My ps3 60gb l pickup comes on in Chinese switch it on then 6 secs red light.if l go in to safe mode try to update it stays on then 20 minutes later error code 8002F281
quitar el IHS y poner en disipador en contacto directo con el DIE se le llama Delidding. Con pasta térmica basada en metal líquido se puede mejorar las temperaturas en hasta 20⁰C o más. Pero ojo, porque el metal líquido se lleva muy mal con el aluminio DEJAS EL IHS AMIGO ? cual delidding?
i'always known that thermal paste only apllies to one side of the cpu, but you applied liquid metal on both the cpus, gpus also onto their covers. Is this how liquid metal is applied? to both sides? cause thermal paste only applies to one side. on top of the cpu cover and not to the heatsink. which is it?
The RSX didn’t have a bare spot dude. It’s stuck to the top of the IHS. The paste is just dry now and stuck to the IHS when you de lidded. Also it’s absolutely necessary to use new paste or thermal adhesive for the DDR3. Any extra heat around the RSX which is easily the most fragile and heat affected component when it comes to longevity, isn’t a good thing. Even if it’s only a few degrees it’s still a few degrees.
used printer paper and painters tape to cover up everything but the cell cpu and I used the same ifixit tool but i sanded it down and warmed it up and it cut through easily
I bought thermal grizzly liquid metal and nail polish. I already have delided the rsx and I'm not planing to delid the cell because it runs cool. My only concern is about the liquid metal leaking because I hold my console vertical. Is it actually possible the liquid metal to leak?
I might actually do this because My ps3 is overclock and this might be a better solution lol after I graduate I need to learn how to take the cpu and stuff apart before I attempt this anything I should know or learn about this is pretty good I must say 😅 EDIT : Oh and how does the ps3 perform now because I’ve been hearing the good and bad about it so I don’t know if I should attempt this or not
I am looking to get a hold of you to ask you some professional questions. How would we get in contact with you? My company loved your input and we would like to consult with you. If anyone in the comments knows how to contact this gentleman let me know, thank you.
At my slim model i have 53-54° cpu and rsx 61 with max 29% speed fun in game after 2 hours play ,and with syscon setting i have CPU 57°,rsx65° speed fun max 27%. Is ok this temperatures?
@@corbinxtitus thank you. This is the first vid I’ve watched discussing thermal Liquid Metal. This this is the best outcome for these ps3 launch models? I just purchased the A01 model. It shut down twice in the first few days with only an hour of being on. First time it started back up after 20 min of rest. 2nd time it would turn on at all. The seller replaced thermal paste on the IHS’s, replaced the 15 blade fan for 19 blade fan & a 226 power supply. Since it didn’t turn on at all after the second shutdown, I decided to do a complete teardown to see if I could find anything wrong. I had to do a repaste used corsair XTM50 paste. It’s my 2nd batch & seems kind of dry compared to the 1st batch I used on my ps3 slim & my cousin’s ps4 fat. Anyway, the ps3 A01 turned right on after reassembly. What’s your take on this? Should I repaste under the IHS’s? Or could there be something else going on?
@@corbinxtitus I use Thermal grizzly TG remove, which is specifically designed for cleaning up stuff like thermal paste and adhesives. Funny enough it’s acetone based.
Potentially. If it's thermal throttling, yes. However, IF you manage to delid correctly, it may be possible to get temperatures low enough to overclock, which is now possible.
Hello i want to try this in couple of days i need delid so bad cause my graphics rsx are 75-80c 85c max only delided cpu with thermal paste cause it was easy and it stays at 60-65c,i want to try this with liquid metal and actually put on both rsx and cpu does yours still work and what position does my ps3 need to be vertical or horizontal and can i move it cause sometimes i go to grandma house and put it in backpack and move it and how recently should i change that liquid metal 1-2 years?
@@corbinxtitus Yes it will so hard process im so scared to do it, got it for 15$ working but it still part of my childhood and backwards compatible so sad if i break it
@@corbinxtitus None are soldered (we wouldn’t have over heating issues otherwise). Some models had a very strong thermal epoxy applied directly to the die, which will literally rip the die off the substrate if you try to delid. Sony started doing this 2500 and up. Unfortunately you don’t know which version you have until you try to delid, basically if you cut the outer IHS adhesive and the IHS won’t budge you likely have a direct die epoxy variant that cannot be delid. (I guess you could maybe check with a advanced X-ray system and enough samples, but that’s beyond unrealistic.)
@@jesusfreezus4199 I dont.. in theory I would LOVE to, and I actually used to run my own electronic repair LLC, but I just don't want to be responsible for breaking someone's device by accident, ya know?
Has anyone delid the ps3 fat a second time to see if the liquid actually works properly as these systems were not designed for such a process. Here’s a link I found. Ps4 with Liquid Metal after a few years. ua-cam.com/video/zij-caOwYOY/v-deo.html
You can always just re-apply. the LM doesn't "dry out" it just reacts with the impurities in the nickel coating of the IHS. Should last a few years before re-application is required. You'll know you need a re-application when the system begins to overheat.
Also what type of thermal pads and thickness should I use to replace original pads on my A01 model? Oh and should I cover the entire ps2 chips or stick with the way PlayStation did it?
@@moogish I bought a multi thickness pack and measured and cut them individually. I fully covered all my components. Also put pads on the NEC/TOKIN chips
Great video. It's important to note that you're lucky you didn't damage the GPU. You de-lidded it from the wrong side. Had you gone in from the opposite side, there are no resistors. The side you came in on, there are resistors which you could have easily damaged
I'm Abt to do it myself, you start by the chips right?
@@vincent.416 yes, the opposite side he did it on. So he did it on the left hand side when it actually needs to be done on the right side.
@@timdark9282 got it ty. Tried dental floss for CPU and the adhesive is too hard for the floss to cut through so stuck with the sanded painters knife and yeah you gotta apply a good bit of pressure. Only cut myself 3 times lol. will see if it works tmrw
@@vincent.416 yes I also use the painters knife, you need to initially apply a fair bit of pressure to cut into the silicone but once your in its all about being careful and applying even pressure.
@@vincent.416 Disolve silicon with "eau écarlate" or equivalent and cut with dental wire.
Pro-tip, to clean the IHS and Heatsink and remove all impurities, use spray on Electrical Contact Cleaner with lint free paper towels. It will clean far better than Isopropyl Alcohol and you will get slightly better contact with fresh paste. The Contact cleaner dissolves old paste really quickly which gets into the small imperfections and allows the new thermal paste to occupy that space. Electric Contact Cleaner is amazing stuff and is also useful with fixing dirty USB ports and cleaning up liquid damaged electronics.
so basically instead of iso prop, it's better to use Electrical Contact Cleaner on every pcb from consoles to pc parts?
it was actually discovered a while ago the main cause of the ylod is the 90nm rsx chip dyeing as they were produced by nvidia around the time of the bumpgate scandel. But now you essentially prevent the ylod by getting a 40nm rsx from the slim reballed onto your backwards compatible unit. I own one of these 40nm systems and the fan never gets to top speed and the system only ever gets moderately warm after hours of use compared to my og unit where the system would go to max speed within like 10 mins of even just running a ps2 game
@@ultimatespidybawlz2198 you have no clue what you talking about, the PS3 only Has an Jet Fan due to the Cell Never the RSX, If PS3 had it's fan running at high speed due to RSX then PS3 would Never have defect on Rsx
Always good getting the system cooler. With the backwards compatible ps3s its not a matter if, but when they die. so making them last as long as possible is great!
My BC PS3 was always running high 50s to low 60s and still got ylod 😅
@@tomahawkk wat?? how lol
@@darknez09240due to capacitors failing
It’s not recommend to overclock the RSX as it would decrease it’s reliability. I used trimmed down paint knives to delid my Xbox 360 E and PS3 including the southbridge on the PS3. For my Wii and Wii U i used an even thinner knife set. To further improve the cooling on the PS3 i recommend replacing the old thermal pads. I used Arctic pads which took some degrees off. The temp difference with Liquid Metal is insane.
Excelente, voy a tener que hacerle esto a mi ps3 fat retrocompatible, no quiero que muera por temperaturas altas, muchas gracias viejo por compartir 👍
NO! Lo mejor es utilizar Thermal Paste, debido a que tengo entendido Liquid Metal tiende a corroer superficies de aluminio. Si aún así decides usar Liquid Metal, entonces sugiero la Arctic 5, la cual no es conductora de electricidad y por lo tanto, más segura. REPiTO: NO ES SUGERIBLE en el PS3, mejor Thermal Paste Arctic 4.
@@Red05xThe IHS is not made by aluminum. It is copper plated and painted with nickel
@@jelkobg5944 Thanks, Man. I knew that after post that. It’s good for us to have the right answer here.
9th gen is when the IHS was soldered. I was debating getting a 8th or 9th, and the thermal paste on the 8th was the deal killer.
Good vid, keep in mind that the early rsx chips run a bit hotter than the cell by about 10° which is vey normal. Overall nice temps👍
Dude don’t use superglue on the IHS, that’s just wrong, also always remove the old glue
No need to heat it up, CPU hold thermal glue and RSX silicon which both have +250 C tolerance. Just need very thin and sharp tool (i use painting spatula) and a drop of silicon oil.
Heat softens the silicon making it easier to cut, you want to avoid is much sideways sheer force as possible (the BGA isn’t very well made on older ps3).
Why didnt you clean the thermal paste away from the edges of the cell and rsx?
Use "fishing line" for flossing the silicon adhesive (de-lid the CPU)
Just info, you can applied some conformal coating on the board around the chip with liquid metal. Just to be safe. Anyway, isn't the heatsink pad (where the RSX and CELL land on it) made of aluminum? is it safe for it to be exposed on liquid metal?
Liquid metal is not supposed to be used with aluminum. The reason is because it usually contains gallium, which will eat the aluminum.
Braided fishing line, basically foolproof.
Great videos, I was considering doing this to my own PS3, but I get mixed answers on the longevity of Liquid Metal. How often would you have to replace it if at all?
Probably every 3 years if it needs to be replaced. If properly applied, it shouldn't need replacing
you really good at this stuff .. well done
Thanks so much, I plan on posting more like this in the future
Impressive result. Do you used some kind of protection for the component near de cpu and to prevent a leak?
Clear nail-polish
What kind of temps are you getting when running PS2 games? Also, what were your fan settings in this video?
It’s really easy to damage the RSX when you delid it from the wrong side like you did.
Damn 58-59 degrees celsius on a 28% fan speed, can you make a video if you try to set it up on 50% fan speed and 70-75% fanspeed what the results?
Good video. Will be doing this on my channel soon. I would suggest investing in a skyfloat for overhead views. Best $150 I ever spent for my channel.
Great video , going to have to do this with my Ps3
I know this video is old but I really hope you didn't kill your ps3 with this. It's REALLY unwise to leave the liquid metal on the die without any sort of surrounding material to block it from flowing onto the motherboard beneath it. Everyone who ever worked with liquid metal knows that. (or SHOULD know that)
Even if you never ever put your ps3 vertical. There's still a very real chance it'll flow onto the small components right next to the die. And then you'll have your house fire (or just a heavy paper weight).
Nice job! I was doing one of these once and had my hand fling like you did and knocked a capacitor off I still have the capacitor and the unit and I've yet to try and put the capacitor back on but I'm going to attempted this week I doubt it's going to work though.
Use a hot-air station rather than a soldering iron
Liquid Metal is stupid on a PS3 , the heat spreaders & CPU/GPU die's are not made to take liquid metal !
Aluminium doesn't react well , also there's no all copper surface with coating to stop the liquid metal under heat from usage to Stop it from encrusted into the surface of all 3 , the die , heatspeader & heatsinks .
Just use really good thermal paste .
If you want to cool the phat better add a small 40mm 5v blower fan to the front of the Power supply & connect to Blu Ray power connection on board . This will blow the heat straight out the back from the power supply . Check NSC on YT for the tutorial .
I love my PS3 but it overheats and double-beeps.
Would using liquid metal possibly be a permanent fix for overheating? (i heard it doesn't dry out)
I'm a noob at these sort of things
Partially. I described this in part 1 in my video, which is worth watching the entire thing if you have the time
Liquid metal is bad if you planing to play all the time but not much if you only play ps2 for little bit like i do
its not deliding N1 and N2 METAL in aluminio ? crazy man ,
How’s the ps3 holding up??
all the thermal paste renewal, and unlidding is cool, but I saw no one work on the heatpipes, and heatsink thermal conductivity...it wuld be cool to see those improvements...
Would a really hot knife work or is that going to do damage?
Is the metal liquid ok for the heatsink? I read some people saying that it can only be applied on copper surface.
You don't use liquid metal between the IHS and heatsink, you use thermal paste. Liquid metal goes between the actual DIE and IHS
@@corbinxtitus I actually saw that you had the IHS on the heatsink later. thanks
@@corbinxtitus Isn't the IHS of the PS3 also made of Aluminium?
@@Red05x no, it's nickel plated copper.
@@corbinxtitus Thanks.
Tried delidding one time and ruined a BC PS3. Good job!
Is your heatgun station in Celcius or Farenheit?
My ps3 60gb l pickup comes on in Chinese switch it on then 6 secs red light.if l go in to safe mode try to update it stays on then 20 minutes later error code 8002F281
Liquid metal on a game console other than the ps5 is crazy in my opinion.
59:21 one question can you tell me what's that blue thing you're holding?
superglue :)
@@corbinxtitus fr also what did you atlast
quitar el IHS y poner en disipador en contacto directo con el DIE se le llama Delidding. Con pasta térmica basada en metal líquido se puede mejorar las temperaturas en hasta 20⁰C o más. Pero ojo, porque el metal líquido se lleva muy mal con el aluminio DEJAS EL IHS AMIGO ? cual delidding?
i'always known that thermal paste only apllies to one side of the cpu, but you applied liquid metal on both the cpus, gpus also onto their covers. Is this how liquid metal is applied? to both sides? cause thermal paste only applies to one side. on top of the cpu cover and not to the heatsink. which is it?
Liquid metal can be applied on 1 side, or both, it's personal preference
Did you ever check error codes?
The RSX didn’t have a bare spot dude. It’s stuck to the top of the IHS. The paste is just dry now and stuck to the IHS when you de lidded. Also it’s absolutely necessary to use new paste or thermal adhesive for the DDR3. Any extra heat around the RSX which is easily the most fragile and heat affected component when it comes to longevity, isn’t a good thing. Even if it’s only a few degrees it’s still a few degrees.
amazing
hey man! so how is it doing now?
Seen this a lot on multiple videos i belive the rsx should have normal thermal paste and cpu cell liquid metal
used printer paper and painters tape to cover up everything but the cell cpu and I used the same ifixit tool but i sanded it down and warmed it up and it cut through easily
1:01:27 you can add the ribbon cables after the shield less hassle
I bought thermal grizzly liquid metal and nail polish. I already have delided the rsx and I'm not planing to delid the cell because it runs cool. My only concern is about the liquid metal leaking because I hold my console vertical. Is it actually possible the liquid metal to leak?
I also keep mine vertical and didn't have any issues.
@@corbinxtitus Okay thanks for the answer. I will do it after few days and I will post my results.
@@corbinxtitus think I will need to reapply the thermal paste because before the liquid metal it was 66 CPU 68 GPU and right now it's CPU 69 GPU 69
Mucho ojo con usar metal líquido con aluminio en tu PC, ¡peligro de explosión!
I might actually do this because My ps3 is overclock and this might be a better solution lol after I graduate I need to learn how to take the cpu and stuff apart before I attempt this anything I should know or learn about this is pretty good I must say 😅 EDIT : Oh and how does the ps3 perform now because I’ve been hearing the good and bad about it so I don’t know if I should attempt this or not
Dont apply over clocking on your ps3, it degrade the life span of the cpu and gpu, it also gives a lot of pressure on VRMs on cpu and gpu
@@kevinmagsy0312 I know I got rid of mine’s already and I just got my ps3 for Christmas last year so o can’t ruined it at all and it came from Japan
@@kevinmagsy0312 Not really true. The real answer is we don’t know OC affects on lifespan.
Why dont people heat up the painters knife and use tape to secure the shield when it pops.
Some people do, it's kinda common
@@corbinxtitus I got a backwards compatible one, i kinda want to delid, but im scared:(
I am looking to get a hold of you to ask you some professional questions. How would we get in contact with you? My company loved your input and we would like to consult with you. If anyone in the comments knows how to contact this gentleman let me know, thank you.
how do you pull up that box on the screen showing CPU-RSX temps? Thank-you
Webman, soft modded ps3
@@corbinxtitus Okay, thanks
@MELLO será que daria para fazer no super slim e slim ?
How is this ps3 still going, temps ?
At my slim model i have 53-54° cpu and rsx 61 with max 29% speed fun in game after 2 hours play ,and with syscon setting i have CPU 57°,rsx65° speed fun max 27%. Is ok this temperatures?
It’s ok
Why do you have your fans at 28% that’s horrible for your console having your fans at 36-45 % is better
As long as the temps are good there is no reason so increase the fan speed
Galio y aluminio, DEP😢
hey man the console is still doing well ?
Absolutely
Can the PS3 still stand vertically with the liquid metal installed?
Yes. Any orientation your heart desires
@@corbinxtitus thank you. This is the first vid I’ve watched discussing thermal Liquid Metal. This this is the best outcome for these ps3 launch models? I just purchased the A01 model. It shut down twice in the first few days with only an hour of being on. First time it started back up after 20 min of rest. 2nd time it would turn on at all. The seller replaced thermal paste on the IHS’s, replaced the 15 blade fan for 19 blade fan & a 226 power supply. Since it didn’t turn on at all after the second shutdown, I decided to do a complete teardown to see if I could find anything wrong. I had to do a repaste used corsair XTM50 paste. It’s my 2nd batch & seems kind of dry compared to the 1st batch I used on my ps3 slim & my cousin’s ps4 fat. Anyway, the ps3 A01 turned right on after reassembly. What’s your take on this? Should I repaste under the IHS’s? Or could there be something else going on?
@@moogish I would do what I did in another video on my channel, and use a heat gun + flux on the CPU / GPU
@@corbinxtitus can you send me that link so I can examine your work?
@@moogish ua-cam.com/video/bNEAcco29jY/v-deo.html
where is that delliding tool from thanks
Ifixit tool kit
Can you use paint thinner to dissolve the silicone adhesive?
It might be too aggressive on the soldermask on the PCB. Especially if it uses acetone
@@corbinxtitus I use Thermal grizzly TG remove, which is specifically designed for cleaning up stuff like thermal paste and adhesives. Funny enough it’s acetone based.
Anyone here in the States that can preform this to my PS3 backward compatible never been open. Just dugout and very dusty, before I start playing it.?
How can you see cpu/gpu info temp and ram ???😅😅
Custom Firmware PS3, with Webman
why didn't you remove the ihs completely?
The cooler wouldn't make contact on the die. Plus it increases the chances of the die cracking
@@corbinxtitus I would like to ask, the thermal pads above the EEGS and the southbridge, how thick are they?
@@nator1654 I don't remember unfortunately..
Would delidding help improve fps stability
Potentially. If it's thermal throttling, yes.
However, IF you manage to delid correctly, it may be possible to get temperatures low enough to overclock, which is now possible.
@@corbinxtitus how can you overclock a ps3
Hello i want to try this in couple of days i need delid so bad cause my graphics rsx are 75-80c 85c max only delided cpu with thermal paste cause it was easy and it stays at 60-65c,i want to try this with liquid metal and actually put on both rsx and cpu does yours still work and what position does my ps3 need to be vertical or horizontal and can i move it cause sometimes i go to grandma house and put it in backpack and move it and how recently should i change that liquid metal 1-2 years?
Mine still works, yes.
Vertical or horizontal - doesn't matter.
Liquid metal technically never needs to be re-applied. Just monitor your temperatures
@@corbinxtitus Will this prevent overheating and YLOD
@@pacijentt4367 most definitely yes. Just don't damage your CPU removing the IHS :)
@@corbinxtitus Yes it will so hard process im so scared to do it, got it for 15$ working but it still part of my childhood and backwards compatible so sad if i break it
@@pacijentt4367 use a very similar tool to the one I used. Use heat and patience
I have question is mandatory to add paste top of the rams
Not mandatory, but useful. Why wouldn't you?
Did u to try to remove the ihs of cpu ps3 super slim the one does nt have space between ihs and the die
@@ehabsaeed7686 supposedly the ps3 slim uses a soldered IHS, or something similar.
@@corbinxtitus None are soldered (we wouldn’t have over heating issues otherwise). Some models had a very strong thermal epoxy applied directly to the die, which will literally rip the die off the substrate if you try to delid. Sony started doing this 2500 and up. Unfortunately you don’t know which version you have until you try to delid, basically if you cut the outer IHS adhesive and the IHS won’t budge you likely have a direct die epoxy variant that cannot be delid.
(I guess you could maybe check with a advanced X-ray system and enough samples, but that’s beyond unrealistic.)
What could you use instead of a heat gun?
Hair dryer
@@corbinxtitus thanks!
Loquid metal eat aluminum?
Yes
his ps3 is probably dead
The IHS is not aluminum, it's nickel plated copper @@googlglglg
Heroin needle lmao
still work ?
Yessir
@@corbinxtitus Do you do this for people and charge? I'd be interested.
@@jesusfreezus4199 I dont.. in theory I would LOVE to, and I actually used to run my own electronic repair LLC, but I just don't want to be responsible for breaking someone's device by accident, ya know?
Bummer I would of sent you mine for maintenance.
He just forgot to change the nectokin capacitors to make it work longer.
40-45% fan speed all the time
35%
WOW i need to do that@@PixelPcMx
I know it's an old video.. But, please for the love of all that is holy/unholy.. Get some organization bro.
It's worse now
@@corbinxtitus Oh the horror!
This not working ps3 use aluminium cpu case and liquid metall killing fan system ( i kill my loving ps3 fat use that idea
You did it wrong. You used liquid metal in-between the IHS and the heatsink. Only use it in between the cpu DIE and IHS
Mines still going strong
Has anyone delid the ps3 fat a second time to see if the liquid actually works properly as these systems were not designed for such a process. Here’s a link I found. Ps4 with Liquid Metal after a few years. ua-cam.com/video/zij-caOwYOY/v-deo.html
You can always just re-apply. the LM doesn't "dry out" it just reacts with the impurities in the nickel coating of the IHS. Should last a few years before re-application is required. You'll know you need a re-application when the system begins to overheat.
Also what type of thermal pads and thickness should I use to replace original pads on my A01 model? Oh and should I cover the entire ps2 chips or stick with the way PlayStation did it?
@@moogish I bought a multi thickness pack and measured and cut them individually. I fully covered all my components. Also put pads on the NEC/TOKIN chips
@@corbinxtitus ok. Did you ever need to replace any of the tokin capacitors?
@@moogish I did not. In the future, I plan to replace my RSX chip with a 40mm one.
How the fuck he didn’t destroy it, I’ll never know but fairplay for making it work.