Thanks! You repair plugs like I do. Split the plastic, do the repair, then glue back. I am having trouble with an HP that dies not show the charge light, battery I think is fine. Replaced the internal connector in the computer. Still no good. So I am now learning about the 3 conductor jack. All connections are repaired, however I am not sure the center terminal (sense) is the correct voltage to let the comp know it is ok to turn on. Ordering the correct power supply and hopefully the HP will boot up again. By the way, I am getting the 19V on the main power leads (black and white) and on the blue 12V. Perhaps 12 V should be less, or more. Thank you for your video sir.
I have a HP laptop with the central "sensor" pin in the plug. After the computer sleeps and the computer is awakened, the LED and main power circuit (Windows) will not detect the supply. I have to unplug (and re-plug) the power supply from the wall socket end (not the laptop) in order for the charging circuit to work and the LED to light. If this a problem with the power supply, or the sensing circuit inside the computer?
Salut! I am using an old 230W Charger as a power source for my 3D Printer. I cut the connector and the cable is coaxial, outside seems to be ground, then the intermediate layer seems to be power and then the center is a single wire which I guess is Sense. I want to wire directly this to my printer, can I solder together sense and +, and then ground to -? Is it possible than tying together sense and + will damage the adapter? Thanks!
The sense line is for the laptop to recognize the power capability of the supply. Mine was set for 9V, for a medium power adapter. If you can get access to the center pin you can try a resistor divider to set it to one half the supply voltage, so the laptop will enable the supply to be used. On my aftermarket supply, the pin wasn't easily accessible without cutting the tip apart, so I had to do something of an archeological dig to expose it and repair the blown diode.
is the there a work around for the central sensing wire/pin? Can you charge the laptop if you use a charger that does not have a central pin? what is the purpose of the pin, other than sensing? does it disablbe ability to charge, does it charge at a different current level or??
I had a charger with that problem, and the removable connector tip was the problem. Basically it's just a 9V zener diode with a 360k pull-up to the 20V supply. When the tip got out of alignment and forcibly inserted, it burned out the diode from the direct 20V. I cut open the tip and replaced the diode with a small SMT component, and it's working fine again. Someone carelessly probing the tip and shorting it to the inner barrel connector will also fry the diode. They should have simply used a resistor divider, then it wouldn't be so easy to blow out.
Hehe, that was indeed one of those days it seems... Actually, I had to force myself into not blurting out a comment before having watched the whole thing several times. Just to see that in fact you've got all the clues already, at least in principle :) - the greasy "cleaning substance" is just another type of (cheap) flux. Get some decent quality stuff, it'll serve "both your purposes" - the insulation melting is due to too much heat. Just look at that soldering iron... - why don't you just use the shrink tubing?! - alternative to the "Bison weak glue": simple hot glue, aka "hot snot". It's got NO solvents in it, is both strong and flexible enough for the purpose, and yet not permanent either Nice video nevertheless! Really, that's how you - and others including myself - learn.
Thank you for your comment, I do agree with what you said :) I have another repair video of a charger plug where it all worked way better, but decided to change some things this time...bad decision :)) The only thing I want to point out is that the melting insulation was because of it's weird material, as it was starting to melt the second I touched the wire with solder. It just seemed to me the insulation had a way lower melting point than the solder. Never had this happen with any other wires. On standar wires I would have to overheat them allot to get a similar result.
Early on in the vid you called the plastic covering of a wire the 'protection', later on you used the right word 'insulation'. The metal wire on a reel you solder with is called 'solder'. Dissolve has two Ss (first time on screen there was a typo).
I think for all the time and hassle involved in doing this repair I would prefer to buy a brand new one (as indeed I did for my HP laptop only a couple of weeks ago - cost only €14 for adapter & mains cable incl. shipping).
Thank you for all this informations! Will try to remember them :)) I would also prefer to buy a new charger, but in my country the original ones are crazy expensive (over €30). The aftermarket ones I would not touch with a stick. Second hand original is my only real choice, and from time to time I get one of these with a bad connection...so either I fix it or my money are lost. That paste is called "pasta decapanta" and when I search it on google it seems in english it's just "soldering paste". Probably just some solid flux.
Although it does not seem to behave as flux, it makes solder stick way easier to metal. My flux does not seem to do that, but then again, it's cheap ebay stuff, so who knows if I actually got flux in that seringes.
So I have the same computer but I think there was a medal part inside the charger where it goes in the little hole and if there was a medal part then for me it’s gone.
od the mainboard inside laptop id pin should be connected with V+. right? i'm repairng socket and i dont know how connect 3rd ID cable :/ someone help?
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P L E A S E L I K E A N D S U B S C R I B E !
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Thanks! You repair plugs like I do. Split the plastic, do the repair, then glue back. I am having trouble with an HP that dies not show the charge light, battery I think is fine.
Replaced the internal connector in the computer. Still no good. So I am now learning about the 3 conductor jack. All connections are repaired, however I am not sure the center terminal (sense) is the correct voltage to let the comp know it is ok to turn on. Ordering the correct power supply and hopefully the HP will boot up again.
By the way, I am getting the 19V on the main power leads (black and white) and on the blue 12V. Perhaps 12 V should be less, or more. Thank you for your video sir.
It's always a guess what voltage a particular laptop is expecting on the center pin 😔
I have a HP laptop with the central "sensor" pin in the plug. After the computer sleeps and the computer is awakened, the LED and main power circuit (Windows) will not detect the supply. I have to unplug (and re-plug) the power supply from the wall socket end (not the laptop) in order for the charging circuit to work and the LED to light. If this a problem with the power supply, or the sensing circuit inside the computer?
Impossible to guess.
Salut! I am using an old 230W Charger as a power source for my 3D Printer. I cut the connector and the cable is coaxial, outside seems to be ground, then the intermediate layer seems to be power and then the center is a single wire which I guess is Sense. I want to wire directly this to my printer, can I solder together sense and +, and then ground to -? Is it possible than tying together sense and + will damage the adapter? Thanks!
Salut. It's impossible for me to know. This things depend from model to model. Try to search online for your particular adapter.
The sense line is for the laptop to recognize the power capability of the supply. Mine was set for 9V, for a medium power adapter.
If you can get access to the center pin you can try a resistor divider to set it to one half the supply voltage, so the laptop will enable the supply to be used. On my aftermarket supply, the pin wasn't easily accessible without cutting the tip apart, so I had to do something of an archeological dig to expose it and repair the blown diode.
It just worked right now midnight thanks man
Welcome!
The you so much you have just saved me a lot of money.
Welcome!
is the there a work around for the central sensing wire/pin? Can you charge the laptop if you use a charger that does not have a central pin? what is the purpose of the pin, other than sensing? does it disablbe ability to charge, does it charge at a different current level or??
No workarround. The central pin must supply the correct voltage for the sense system to work. Without that, the laptop will not even power on.
I had a charger with that problem, and the removable connector tip was the problem. Basically it's just a 9V zener diode with a 360k pull-up to the 20V supply. When the tip got out of alignment and forcibly inserted, it burned out the diode from the direct 20V. I cut open the tip and replaced the diode with a small SMT component, and it's working fine again. Someone carelessly probing the tip and shorting it to the inner barrel connector will also fry the diode. They should have simply used a resistor divider, then it wouldn't be so easy to blow out.
Thank you for the explanation 👍🏻
Hi,
Do you have an idea of the center (the smart pin) pin votage ?
Hi. Depends on laptop model and brand.
18:45 => The name of the thing is "Soldering paste" in English.
Thanks 👍🏻
How much the id pin voltag ?
Hehe, that was indeed one of those days it seems... Actually, I had to force myself into not blurting out a comment before having watched the whole thing several times. Just to see that in fact you've got all the clues already, at least in principle :)
- the greasy "cleaning substance" is just another type of (cheap) flux. Get some decent quality stuff, it'll serve "both your purposes"
- the insulation melting is due to too much heat. Just look at that soldering iron...
- why don't you just use the shrink tubing?!
- alternative to the "Bison weak glue": simple hot glue, aka "hot snot". It's got NO solvents in it, is both strong and flexible enough for the purpose, and yet not permanent either
Nice video nevertheless! Really, that's how you - and others including myself - learn.
Thank you for your comment, I do agree with what you said :)
I have another repair video of a charger plug where it all worked way better, but decided to change some things this time...bad decision :))
The only thing I want to point out is that the melting insulation was because of it's weird material, as it was starting to melt the second I touched the wire with solder. It just seemed to me the insulation had a way lower melting point than the solder. Never had this happen with any other wires. On standar wires I would have to overheat them allot to get a similar result.
Yes, I've seen such crappy insulation, too. But still, I would've cut it away generously, then rebuilt with shrink tubing.
That would have been a great idea :)
Early on in the vid you called the plastic covering of a wire the 'protection', later on you used the right word 'insulation'. The metal wire on a reel you solder with is called 'solder'. Dissolve has two Ss (first time on screen there was a typo).
I think for all the time and hassle involved in doing this repair I would prefer to buy a brand new one (as indeed I did for my HP laptop only a couple of weeks ago - cost only €14 for adapter & mains cable incl. shipping).
I think the stuff in the little white pot is also flux, although it could be some kind of degreasing paste. What's it called in your language?
The outer covering around the bundle of insulated wires is sometimes called the sheath.
Thank you for all this informations! Will try to remember them :))
I would also prefer to buy a new charger, but in my country the original ones are crazy expensive (over €30). The aftermarket ones I would not touch with a stick. Second hand original is my only real choice, and from time to time I get one of these with a bad connection...so either I fix it or my money are lost.
That paste is called "pasta decapanta" and when I search it on google it seems in english it's just "soldering paste". Probably just some solid flux.
Although it does not seem to behave as flux, it makes solder stick way easier to metal. My flux does not seem to do that, but then again, it's cheap ebay stuff, so who knows if I actually got flux in that seringes.
So I have the same computer but I think there was a medal part inside the charger where it goes in the little hole and if there was a medal part then for me it’s gone.
That sucks.
Ultimate DIY uhmm do it was the jack in the charger but, now my computer charges.
Good.
Superb video
Thanks! ✌🏼
The middle wire is an earth wire
That is false. It is a sense wire. The laptop recognises the charger trough it.
@@UltimateDIY yep, actually some of laptops are using it to recognise what wattage adapter is capable to deliver.
Good video!
Thank you!
od the mainboard inside laptop id pin should be connected with V+. right? i'm repairng socket and i dont know how connect 3rd ID cable :/ someone help?
No, it's not connected directly to V+. It has a different connection point. But it is different from brand to brand.
Thx
Welcome!
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