@@ogasama6028 Those are the charger's line/input numbers. Usually lots of flexibility there. What matters most is the output that's going in to the device you're charging. Those numbers are important.
I am a college music professor looking to teach this subject in class and you explained it perfectly. I’ve been searching for an explanation like this for a long time. Thank you!
Well done. My Elmer who coached me for my general license presented voltage and amperage in virtually the same fashion. He has been a silent key for nearly 30 years but listening to you brought back my memories of him. It is odd that something so simple confuses so many people. I now find myself eager to watch more of your videos. 73's
At the risk of confusing things further, it might help some people with an analogy to demystify what voltage and current (amps) are. The analogy isn't perfect, but helpful in some situations. The analogy is with water in pipes and hoses. Voltage is analogous to water pressure (PSI or Pascals). Current is analogous to flow of water (gallons per minute or liters per minute). The computer is analogous to an "appliance," such as a lawn sprinkler, that you attach to a faucet with a garden hose. And, the power supply is analogous to the faucet connected to the garden hose, limiting the flow of water (current) that goes to the sprinkler. That's why the water pressure (voltage) has to match what the lawn sprinkler can handle. If the water pressure is extremely high, then it might blow out the sprinkler, damaging it. If the water pressure is lower than the sprinkler is designed for, then the sprinkler doesn't operate correctly, dribbling water out and probably not rotating as designed. The results are similar if the flow of water supplied is less than what the sprinkler needs and is designed for.
My wife brought home a Samsung Freestyle Projector… from her clients trash! (Worth about $300). It didn’t work but I noticed it had an 9v Apple charger with it. I bought the correct Samsung 20v charger and it works like a champ. Knowledge is power… or in this case.. money!
Excellent. Only just seen this video. Very clearly explained, and best explanation I've seen. Can't understand why other videos have to complicate things.
Thank you do much for the refresher. It's been a while since my tinkering days of yore, and I needed to confirm a variable output on a buck box. Since W (P) is drawn, the equations imply that A (I) are drawn as well. But as my grandfather said, measure twice, cut once.
Sure you can use a charger with the same voltage and different amperage rating, it will charge at a different rate, but it will still charge. What is voltage, what is current? They actually go together, it might be what’s stamped on the device, but it’s the thing that is being charged that determines the current voltage relationship. You put a load on the battery and current will flow based upon the resistance within the device you are charging, but it’s the voltage that matters and determines how much current will flow. So as long as you don’t exceed the voltage rating for the device, only the current based upon the internal resistance will flow.
I just watched this video and would like to add that if you are reading the specs directly off the charger, make sure to take notice of whether it is rated AC or DC output. Make sure the charger and the device are the same type.
Also important is to plug the power supply into the device first and then into the wall outlet to avoid a surge that could damage your device. When your done unplug the power supply from the wall outlet and then unplug from the device being used.
I have to disagree with that. Power supplies, whether linear or switching contain reactive elements (coils and capacitors). When the power supply first turns on, those devices go through a transient period while they reach a steady state. It is during that transient period that anything bad could happen such as inductive voltage spikes that could potentially damage a device. Likewise, when the device loses power, it again goes from a steady state to a transient state while the reactive devices discharge. Once it has reached a steady state, it will regulate the voltage normally. The WORST that could happen while it is running steady state is that the device attempts to draw to much instantaneous power as might happen during the transient while the device is first plugged in. When that happens, the output capacitor buffering the voltage (present on any kind of related power supply) will be drained too quickly causing drop in voltage -- if the power supply isn't designed to be able to handle the power. A drop in voltage might disrupt the device for a moment; but, it will not damage the device the way that a voltage spike could. So in theory, to be as safe as possible, you should always plug the power supply in first and then plug the device into the power supply once it has reached steady state. Likewise, disconnect the device and then unplug the power supply so that it is not subject to any during shutdown transients. In reality, none of this should be important. A well engineered power supply should be designed to effectively filter the transients or to inhibit voltage output until the transients have subsided. That is why some higher power supplies with large active components may take take a few seconds to power on. When they do, you will hear the click of a relay enabling the power output. That relay is timed based on the length of time that the circuit transient needs to subside. So as long as you purchase power supplies from reputable brands, you shouldn't have any trouble. After all, what would happen during a power glitch? Your power supply and device would have to through power down and then power up transients. If you buy a cheap chinesium power supply from EBay, the engineers might not have spent enough time designing around the transients.
Jumble of B.S. I have been working in electronics for over 50 years. Worked on everything from radar, ICP, GCMS,ICPMS and have seen many devices powered by the beloved WALL WART destroyed by not proper plug in sequence. But this is what you can expect form a theory guy who has never worked in the real world. I guess I was not specific enough ! Have you ever seen a circuit board loaded with CMOS chips get destroyed by static electricity. Switching power supplies cannot handle transient spikes. It may be better now but in the 80s and 90s. We had to replace 5 power supplies in GCMS units because of power surge. Go online and see all of the power line conditioners on the market as well as C.V.T. units for 120, 220 and 440 volt three phase ! Equipment costing 100k or more with power supplies from CHINA that are amazing if the last 5 years !@@timharig
"Also important is to plug the power supply into the device first and then into the wall outlet to avoid a surge " Electrical engineer here. You have it exactly backwards. Plug it into the wall first.
Good tip on the polarity. Thanks for all this info. I admit that I only skimmed this video looking to answer my primary question, but am wondering if AC vs DC is discussed, sometimes I see "switching."
I was on my computer and looking for an answer for this subject, you explained it simple and easy to understand that i had togot my phone to like, subscribe and comment on the video. Thank you soo much. 🙏
If it’s lithium ion that you are charging I thought it shortens the life of a battery the higher the amperage charger you use. I’ve had the notion that when charging a lithium battery the slower the charge the longer the overall life of the battery. Is any of this true. Thanks! I appreciate this video!
This was so helpful! I went through a bunch of videos but couldn't make it past rhe 5 minute mark. I just wanted ti know if i can use my laptop charger to charge my phone. Thank you 🙏🙏
I have a question, please answer it - My mobile's charger output says 3 different values are: 5V 3A/9V 2A/12V 1.4A (it's a fast charger) and I have a smartwatch and earbuds both needs to be input of 5V 2A. Now the question is that can I use that charger to charge these devices or should I use 5V 2A charger only?
I charged a 12V hand drill battery with a 12v car battery charger and it went into meltdown...and ignition. I'm sure the explosion was coming. So was my new charger but I needed one fast charge in the mean time but I'm just putting this out there
idunno man, hand drill and a car work different by themselves, it may have worked at first, then something happened when you overdo it.. or maybe it the amps.
A car battery actually has a nominal charge of 12.6V. The alternator on your car generates 13V-14V. Some car battery chargers use more voltage than that for faster charging. Meanwhile, "20V" drill battery's are actually 18V generated from 5×3.6V lithium cells. The bottom line is that you a actually need to look at the actually voltage specifications four for device and not the device name.
@@timharig I had ordered the correct charger. It came in the post a few days after the catastrophe. I incidentally used a car battery charger to give a boost to a 14 volt drill battery but it didn't seem to overheat. The battery was possibly on the way out. Technology was advancing faster and 14volt stuff wasn't around long so I didn't care.
If you are referring to a USB-x 5V powered device then the actual voltage from the power supply should be 5.1V-5.25V. That is to account for the voltage drop by the cord between the power supply and the device.
From the video said that: Voltage must be the same, little bit diferent maybe ok, a bit different voltage maybe still ok, but more different voltage can damage the device
USB is called 5V but the chargers are actually expected to output 5.1V to 5.25V to account for the voltage drop across the charging cable. As long as you have a GOOD adapter that supports enough current and a GOOD charging cable you should be fine. Cheap Chinese knockoffs may cause you trouble.
Depends on the situation, but yes, generally. That's why the cables to your car battery are so thick. Still 12 volts, but when starting the car the draw is many, many amps.
Thank you sir i love you XD I had already ordered my device before i looked it up but my batter is 18/20 volts 6Amps and the device i bought is 12-24 volt 5 Amps The device is a Amplifier for a speaker system. Im going to make a diy speaker make uses a drill batter
I believe you are making some confusion with the terms here. Tha voltage refers to eletrical tension and is either 110V or 220V that comes out of the outlet. In this explanation, matches a 19 watts power supply with a 19 watts, watts not volts. Am I mistaken?
You are mistaken. ALL electricity has a measurement for both voltage and current. Power, measured in watts, equals voltage times current. Both sides of the power supply have a voltage across them and a current running through them. The input takes 110V or 220V. The input current will vary based on the load of the output. The output is 19V up to 1.58A of current. Assuming that the device uses the full 1.58A at the full 19V, it will be using 19V×1.58A = 30 watts. If we further assume that the input is 110V, then the input current being drawn would theoretically be 30W/110V = 0.27A. Realistically, the current will be a little higher do to conversion loss.
Yesterday I bricked my expensive powerbank for this reason, assuming the powerbank's input is 12 volts, while after its death, I checked the back and it says 5 or 9 volt inputs.
Can I use an AC power supply/converter to charge a 1000w LiFePO4 solar power station into it's (5521) DC INPUT? (the AC invertor is dead, but all else works fine) The spec on the DC input is: 12-30V 7A 200W Max. The port is actually provided to enable you to charge the power station while your driving you car. It has a cable with a 5521 male plug on one end, and a male cigarette plug on the other. If this can work, what configuration should I get for a power supply? Any help on this is greatly appreciated.
Dear Leo i hope you can help me. I am in the UK. I have an Alfred Cam Plus outdoor security camera, it is powered by a C charger cable that goes in to a power charger/ adapter. Written on the adapter is the following: input 100-240V ~ 50/60Hz 0.25A max Output 5v --- 1000mA What I want to know is what is the 0.25A max? And is that an important factor when looking for a new charger/adapter as my adaper is broken and I cant seem to find one with exactly the same figures as the ones above. The camera itself has a label underneath that says 5V --- 1A Ive been told that any phone charger such as samsung or iphone would work but i dont want to fry it lol... could you please advise me? Thank you
5V-1A is what you care about. That's the power being provided to your device. The 0.25A is a measure of the max power that would be drawn from your line/wall socket power.
@askleonotenboom Hi Leo, thank you for the fast reply... so as long as the new adapter I buy has the output of 5v --- 1000mA it will be ok? I have Samsung phone chargers with that output, so I can use one of them without fear of over heating the security cam?
Hello Leo! i have a situation that i am not sure if these comply! i have created a power supply to charge a 5S Lithium battery that needs 21 volts to fully charge, i have manage to fix the voltage exactly 21 volts, knowing that it will never meet exactly the full charge but its ok, But my problem is that the amperage is a little more than 5 amps...and as we know , lithium batteries must not exceed 1,16 amps while charging , but i have 5 in series, will it distribute nicely or having them in series make it one battery? Will it be sustainable to charge 5 amps at 21 volts a 5S 1P battery? Thank you in advance for your answer! Geozibra!
hello sir. I have a question....I have a plug in phone that requires 5v 2amps....from the wall...can I power it over a battery charger thats portable, for cell phone....it has the same power requirements....5v 2amps, thanks
i have an hp 1050 g1 rated 19.5 and 7.7a was trying to charge wth a 19.5 v and 6.15 a but its not charging is it a charging system issue or the paower pack inst enough?
Can I use a different charger for my laptop, if all the stats between the two chargers are identical (230W, 20V, 11.5 Amps), and the connector is also identical? A new exact part-number match for my laptop is $120, and a used one from a similar laptop is $29. Thanks, if you or anyone can answer.
I have an external HD that only specifies volts (12) and the DC symbol (dashed lines). No indication of amps or polarity on the device, in the manual, or on manufacturer's website. Fortunately, I found an image of the charger for the model on line. But what does it mean if a device doesn't give you all the necessary information? Are there default values?
@@askleonotenboom it's a laptop i searched a lot for the same charger ..but nothing ...I'm already using that charger "6.3A" it seems fine .. thanks leo ,have a good day
WRT amperage, I could well be wrong, but I suspect that if the device being charged requires a higher amperage than the charger can supply, it's possible that the charger could overheat because too much load is being applied to it. If that happens, the charger could be damaged, possibly even catch fire, and the device being charged could also be damaged. Please correct me if I'm wrong about this.
In generall that's NOT the case. You don't "pull" more amperage out of a charger - it provides what it provides. Now, with that being said, chargers have many different designs, characteristics, and more. Some could in fact overheat. But the kinds of chargers we're generally talking about here (USB 0.5 amp chargers perhaps the most common), will just provide what they can provide and charge slowly, if at all, if more than what they provide is really required.
Volts and amps combine to confuse. Understanding how they work can help clear it up.
Thanks Leo!!
Thank you, Sir.
Respect from India
About wiggle room, Can I use a 250V 10A charger as a replacement for 220V 5A charger?
@@ogasama6028 Those are the charger's line/input numbers. Usually lots of flexibility there. What matters most is the output that's going in to the device you're charging. Those numbers are important.
One of the confusion questions we asked regarding choosing power connector
"Amperage is drawn, not pushed." That's the clearest explanation I have ever heard. Thank you!
Yes.. I never understood this… until now. Thanks Leo!
"voltages must match and amperage must either match or exceed that required by the device" -- concise and practical, thank you!
I am a college music professor looking to teach this subject in class and you explained it perfectly. I’ve been searching for an explanation like this for a long time. Thank you!
Well done. My Elmer who coached me for my general license presented voltage and amperage in virtually the same fashion. He has been a silent key for nearly 30 years but listening to you brought back my memories of him. It is odd that something so simple confuses so many people. I now find myself eager to watch more of your videos. 73's
A lucid and to the point explanation. Loved it. Keep up the good work.
Thank you for making this! This is exactly what I was looking for. Super helpful and well done.
I almost bought a new charging brick with a lower amp rating for one of my devices. Thanks for the clear explanation.
At the risk of confusing things further, it might help some people with an analogy to demystify what voltage and current (amps) are. The analogy isn't perfect, but helpful in some situations. The analogy is with water in pipes and hoses. Voltage is analogous to water pressure (PSI or Pascals). Current is analogous to flow of water (gallons per minute or liters per minute). The computer is analogous to an "appliance," such as a lawn sprinkler, that you attach to a faucet with a garden hose. And, the power supply is analogous to the faucet connected to the garden hose, limiting the flow of water (current) that goes to the sprinkler. That's why the water pressure (voltage) has to match what the lawn sprinkler can handle. If the water pressure is extremely high, then it might blow out the sprinkler, damaging it. If the water pressure is lower than the sprinkler is designed for, then the sprinkler doesn't operate correctly, dribbling water out and probably not rotating as designed. The results are similar if the flow of water supplied is less than what the sprinkler needs and is designed for.
this analogy just explain the voltage part of the thing not amperage. And actually I believe you are referring to wats and not volts in this analogy.
My wife brought home a Samsung Freestyle Projector… from her clients trash! (Worth about $300). It didn’t work but I noticed it had an 9v Apple charger with it. I bought the correct Samsung 20v charger and it works like a champ. Knowledge is power… or in this case.. money!
Excellent. Only just seen this video. Very clearly explained, and best explanation I've seen. Can't understand why other videos have to complicate things.
Thank you, sir. Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication...!
This is so helpful and easy to remember! Maybe now I can trim down the pile of various old usb chargers I have lying around too.
Thank you do much for the refresher. It's been a while since my tinkering days of yore, and I needed to confirm a variable output on a buck box. Since W (P) is drawn, the equations imply that A (I) are drawn as well. But as my grandfather said, measure twice, cut once.
Sure you can use a charger with the same voltage and different amperage rating, it will charge at a different rate, but it will still charge.
What is voltage, what is current? They actually go together, it might be what’s stamped on the device, but it’s the thing that is being charged that determines the current voltage relationship. You put a load on the battery and current will flow based upon the resistance within the device you are charging, but it’s the voltage that matters and determines how much current will flow. So as long as you don’t exceed the voltage rating for the device, only the current based upon the internal resistance will flow.
Thank you! This is exactly what I was looking for. Very helpful
I just watched this video and would like to add that if you are reading the specs directly off the charger, make sure to take notice of whether it is rated AC or DC output. Make sure the charger and the device are the same type.
Thanks Leo! I learned something again. Always was confused about the amperage thing. JimE
hey thanks leo, i always had this doubt about the amperage, thank you
Also important is to plug the power supply into the device first and then into the wall outlet to avoid a surge that could damage your device. When your done unplug the power supply from the wall outlet and then unplug from the device being used.
I have to disagree with that. Power supplies, whether linear or switching contain reactive elements (coils and capacitors). When the power supply first turns on, those devices go through a transient period while they reach a steady state. It is during that transient period that anything bad could happen such as inductive voltage spikes that could potentially damage a device. Likewise, when the device loses power, it again goes from a steady state to a transient state while the reactive devices discharge.
Once it has reached a steady state, it will regulate the voltage normally. The WORST that could happen while it is running steady state is that the device attempts to draw to much instantaneous power as might happen during the transient while the device is first plugged in. When that happens, the output capacitor buffering the voltage (present on any kind of related power supply) will be drained too quickly causing drop in voltage -- if the power supply isn't designed to be able to handle the power. A drop in voltage might disrupt the device for a moment; but, it will not damage the device the way that a voltage spike could.
So in theory, to be as safe as possible, you should always plug the power supply in first and then plug the device into the power supply once it has reached steady state. Likewise, disconnect the device and then unplug the power supply so that it is not subject to any during shutdown transients. In reality, none of this should be important. A well engineered power supply should be designed to effectively filter the transients or to inhibit voltage output until the transients have subsided.
That is why some higher power supplies with large active components may take take a few seconds to power on. When they do, you will hear the click of a relay enabling the power output. That relay is timed based on the length of time that the circuit transient needs to subside.
So as long as you purchase power supplies from reputable brands, you shouldn't have any trouble. After all, what would happen during a power glitch? Your power supply and device would have to through power down and then power up transients. If you buy a cheap chinesium power supply from EBay, the engineers might not have spent enough time designing around the transients.
Jumble of B.S. I have been working in electronics for over 50 years. Worked on everything from radar, ICP, GCMS,ICPMS and have seen many devices powered by the beloved WALL WART destroyed by not proper plug in sequence. But this is what you can expect form a theory guy who has never worked in the real world. I guess I was not specific enough ! Have you ever seen a circuit board loaded with CMOS chips get destroyed by static electricity. Switching power supplies cannot handle transient spikes. It may be better now but in the 80s and 90s. We had to replace 5 power supplies in GCMS units because of power surge. Go online and see all of the power line conditioners on the market as well as C.V.T. units for 120, 220 and 440 volt three phase ! Equipment costing 100k or more with power supplies from CHINA that are amazing if the last 5 years !@@timharig
@@timharig Exactly right, sir.
"Also important is to plug the power supply into the device first and then into the wall outlet to avoid a surge "
Electrical engineer here. You have it exactly backwards. Plug it into the wall first.
Thank you for your explanation! Helped a lot.
Good tip on the polarity. Thanks for all this info. I admit that I only skimmed this video looking to answer my primary question, but am wondering if AC vs DC is discussed, sometimes I see "switching."
Thanks 👏👏👏👏 Voltage Must Match 💥amps only drawn not pushed 🎉🎉🎉🎉
Thank you! Just bought digital clock that needed adaptor. It does not work on batteries. God Bless You!
I was on my computer and looking for an answer for this subject, you explained it simple and easy to understand that i had togot my phone to like, subscribe and comment on the video. Thank you soo much. 🙏
short and simple and elegant explanation , thank you
sir...the way you explain is so great...you keep repeating the importance point..which it had deep eatching deep in my memory..thank
He’s a joy to watch and listen to. Not bad looking either 😊. Thank you for sharing this video in such an easy to understand way ❤
Thank you!
I needed to know this, as im getting some Vtech consoles and Vtech power adapters are INSANELY hard to find or expensive.
Thank Sir Leo, You explain everything i want want to hear.
Thank you sir, you have explained this so well. I have taken this in, very helpful.
thank u! man this can get confusing. than you soo much! even here in 2022, this still helped me greatly
Thank you...this has made what I have learned even clearer. Very nice video.
All questions answered. Thank you so much.
Thanks Leo. Just the info I have been looking for.
I could like the video 10000000 times if possible... you are the best!
Thank you my case is 12. Volts 3.33 Amp the old one.. and the replacement is 12 volts but 5 Amp. God bless and kudos
Thanks so much for this. Really succinct and easy to understand.
Thanks for nice and clear explanation. My confusion is solved. Regards.
If it’s lithium ion that you are charging I thought it shortens the life of a battery the higher the amperage charger you use. I’ve had the notion that when charging a lithium battery the slower the charge the longer the overall life of the battery. Is any of this true. Thanks! I appreciate this video!
Thank you so much this was really easy to understand keep up the good work🤘😎
i can charge li-ion batteries in a 2A charger but with 0,5 or 1 A adapter?
This was super helpful and informative,thanks sir!
This was so helpful! I went through a bunch of videos but couldn't make it past rhe 5 minute mark. I just wanted ti know if i can use my laptop charger to charge my phone. Thank you 🙏🙏
You've explained very well!
Very well explained. Thank you sir.
Thanks a lot. A big help.
I have a device that requires only 100ma but my power charger is 2amps. I feel safe now to use my power supply charger.
I have a question, please answer it - My mobile's charger output says 3 different values are: 5V 3A/9V 2A/12V 1.4A (it's a fast charger) and I have a smartwatch and earbuds both needs to be input of 5V 2A. Now the question is that can I use that charger to charge these devices or should I use 5V 2A charger only?
Should be fine. It's a USC-C smart charger.
I've long wondered if I could use my laptop USB-C charger to recharge my iPhone. Now I know, thanks!
MAYBE. Generally not.
Damn! This was spot on! Thank you
Thank you, this was so helpful !
I charged a 12V hand drill battery with a 12v car battery charger and it went into meltdown...and ignition. I'm sure the explosion was coming. So was my new charger but I needed one fast charge in the mean time but I'm just putting this out there
idunno man, hand drill and a car work different by themselves, it may have worked at first, then something happened when you overdo it.. or maybe it the amps.
A car battery actually has a nominal charge of 12.6V. The alternator on your car generates 13V-14V. Some car battery chargers use more voltage than that for faster charging.
Meanwhile, "20V" drill battery's are actually 18V generated from 5×3.6V lithium cells.
The bottom line is that you a actually need to look at the actually voltage specifications four for device and not the device name.
@@timharig I had ordered the correct charger. It came in the post a few days after the catastrophe. I incidentally used a car battery charger to give a boost to a 14 volt drill battery but it didn't seem to overheat. The battery was possibly on the way out. Technology was advancing faster and 14volt stuff wasn't around long so I didn't care.
Thanks 🙏
Is 5.2 V output instead of 5V too much? Or does it fall within the "small" difference? Thanks
No way to know. It depends on the specific device.
@@askleonotenboom I see. Thank you 🙏
If you are referring to a USB-x 5V powered device then the actual voltage from the power supply should be 5.1V-5.25V. That is to account for the voltage drop by the cord between the power supply and the device.
Thank you very much for this video’ Now i am clear about the A..
so my Kindle input is in 5.2v, I only have a 5v adapter to charge it, is it okay?
somebody please reply
From the video said that: Voltage must be the same, little bit diferent maybe ok, a bit different voltage maybe still ok, but more different voltage can damage the device
USB is called 5V but the chargers are actually expected to output 5.1V to 5.25V to account for the voltage drop across the charging cable. As long as you have a GOOD adapter that supports enough current and a GOOD charging cable you should be fine. Cheap Chinese knockoffs may cause you trouble.
Very good and helpful video👍👍👍❤️
Would higher amperage or current not affect cable size? Because higher current have thicker wires
Depends on the situation, but yes, generally. That's why the cables to your car battery are so thick. Still 12 volts, but when starting the car the draw is many, many amps.
Thank you sir i love you XD
I had already ordered my device before i looked it up but my batter is 18/20 volts 6Amps and the device i bought is 12-24 volt 5 Amps
The device is a Amplifier for a speaker system. Im going to make a diy speaker make uses a drill batter
I believe you are making some confusion with the terms here. Tha voltage refers to eletrical tension and is either 110V or 220V that comes out of the outlet. In this explanation, matches a 19 watts power supply with a 19 watts, watts not volts. Am I mistaken?
You are mistaken.
ALL electricity has a measurement for both voltage and current. Power, measured in watts, equals voltage times current.
Both sides of the power supply have a voltage across them and a current running through them. The input takes 110V or 220V. The input current will vary based on the load of the output.
The output is 19V up to 1.58A of current. Assuming that the device uses the full 1.58A at the full 19V, it will be using 19V×1.58A = 30 watts. If we further assume that the input is 110V, then the input current being drawn would theoretically be 30W/110V = 0.27A. Realistically, the current will be a little higher do to conversion loss.
very cool, we make the interchangeable style 5W-65W .
Thank you for making it clear. 👍
Thanks, nicely explaind for us how are new in this 🙂
Thanks this is such a good explanation!
The input or output must match or both?
Never mind you said it in the end
Thank you!😊
Great explanation and video.
If im having source of 20A 250V, should i able to charge my devices on this source like AC power plug and etc
Very helpful, thanks!
Thanks, Leo! How do I find out the voltage and amps that my device require? Is there somewhere on my phone or laptop that indicates that?
The users manual should have it.
@@askleonotenboom My manual just says battery capacity is 4500mAh. No mention of voltage. I have a Samsung Galaxy S20FE. Thanks!
I have old toy charger, it's 3,6V and 500mA. Do I dare to use this to power 3,3 volt sensors?
No idea. Could be OK, could destroy the sensors.
@askleonotenboom very helpful. Thank you and goodbye.
niceee very helpful
This should be part of the school curriculum
Yesterday I bricked my expensive powerbank for this reason, assuming the powerbank's input is 12 volts, while after its death, I checked the back and it says 5 or 9 volt inputs.
Can I use an AC power supply/converter to charge a 1000w LiFePO4 solar power station into it's (5521) DC INPUT? (the AC invertor is dead, but all else works fine)
The spec on the DC input is: 12-30V 7A 200W Max.
The port is actually provided to enable you to charge the power station while your driving you car. It has a cable with a 5521 male plug on one end, and a male cigarette plug on the other.
If this can work, what configuration should I get for a power supply?
Any help on this is greatly appreciated.
You answer my question!! Thank you
Excellent clarification. I have a question. Can I use a power bank to power on the laptop without internal battery? Thank you.
Usually, yes.
Dear Leo i hope you can help me. I am in the UK. I have an Alfred Cam Plus outdoor security camera, it is powered by a C charger cable that goes in to a power charger/ adapter. Written on the adapter is the following:
input 100-240V ~
50/60Hz 0.25A max
Output 5v --- 1000mA
What I want to know is what is the 0.25A max? And is that an important factor when looking for a new charger/adapter as my adaper is broken and I cant seem to find one with exactly the same figures as the ones above.
The camera itself has a label underneath that says 5V --- 1A
Ive been told that any phone charger such as samsung or iphone would work but i dont want to fry it lol... could you please advise me? Thank you
5V-1A is what you care about. That's the power being provided to your device. The 0.25A is a measure of the max power that would be drawn from your line/wall socket power.
@askleonotenboom Hi Leo, thank you for the fast reply... so as long as the new adapter I buy has the output of 5v --- 1000mA it will be ok? I have Samsung phone chargers with that output, so I can use one of them without fear of over heating the security cam?
Hello Leo! i have a situation that i am not sure if these comply!
i have created a power supply to charge a 5S Lithium battery that needs 21 volts to fully charge, i have manage to fix the voltage exactly 21 volts,
knowing that it will never meet exactly the full charge but its ok,
But my problem is that the amperage is a little more than 5 amps...and as we know , lithium batteries must not exceed 1,16 amps while charging , but i have 5 in series, will it distribute nicely or having them in series make it one battery? Will it be sustainable to charge 5 amps at 21 volts a 5S 1P battery?
Thank you in advance for your answer!
Geozibra!
thank you very much❤
hello sir. I have a question....I have a plug in phone that requires 5v 2amps....from the wall...can I power it over a battery charger thats portable, for cell phone....it has the same power requirements....5v 2amps, thanks
Make sure that it's DC not AC. If DC then yes, seems like it should work (along with all the other cautions from the video)
yes sir it says 5vdc output 2 amps
I have pc with 19V input. And have charger 19.5V . Same Ampere
Just Difference 0.5v.
Can I use that 19.5V Charger for my PC 19V?
No way to know. Could be OK. Could do damage. Depends on the PC and the charger.
thanks man
i have an hp 1050 g1 rated 19.5 and 7.7a was trying to charge wth a 19.5 v and 6.15 a but its not charging is it a charging system issue or the paower pack inst enough?
Could be either. No way to know for sure.
wow a lot of info. thanks a lot
Can I use a different charger for my laptop, if all the stats between the two chargers are identical (230W, 20V, 11.5 Amps), and the connector is also identical? A new exact part-number match for my laptop is $120, and a used one from a similar laptop is $29. Thanks, if you or anyone can answer.
Video covers this. Stats and connector all identical, then yes.
Super helpful
I got a 9v adapter for a keyboard 🎹, but it didn't work. Apparently the keyboard requires 850mA. And adapter only says 500mA
I have an external HD that only specifies volts (12) and the DC symbol (dashed lines). No indication of amps or polarity on the device, in the manual, or on manufacturer's website. Fortunately, I found an image of the charger for the model on line. But what does it mean if a device doesn't give you all the necessary information? Are there default values?
There aren't really default values that I know of.
Thank you so much!
Good explanation
Very helpful 👌 ☺️
thank you very helpful.
thank you from the netherlands
I would add that some laptops have a communications wire. A consideration.
My monitor reads 2amps. Its adaptor doesn't read 2amps on a multimeter. The monitor doesn't on.. how to check the adaptor amperes?
On it's label. If it's not there there's no reasonable way to determine its capacity.
My device needs 19v ..6.5A ... What do you think about using 19v ..6.3A ? Thanks
Addressed in the video. Depends on the device.
@@askleonotenboom it's a laptop i searched a lot for the same charger ..but nothing ...I'm already using that charger "6.3A" it seems fine .. thanks leo ,have a good day
WRT amperage, I could well be wrong, but I suspect that if the device being charged requires a higher amperage than the charger can supply, it's possible that the charger could overheat because too much load is being applied to it. If that happens, the charger could be damaged, possibly even catch fire, and the device being charged could also be damaged.
Please correct me if I'm wrong about this.
In generall that's NOT the case. You don't "pull" more amperage out of a charger - it provides what it provides. Now, with that being said, chargers have many different designs, characteristics, and more. Some could in fact overheat. But the kinds of chargers we're generally talking about here (USB 0.5 amp chargers perhaps the most common), will just provide what they can provide and charge slowly, if at all, if more than what they provide is really required.
What if our device needs 12 volts 6 amps - can we use a charger that’s 24 volts and .001 amps ?
Thank you! Very clear and helpful explanation.
my device only needs 5W but i have 5.4W adapter is it good?
Yup, as long as you follow the other guidelines outlined in the video.