Thanks for the video. I have a Horse Tiller that I bought new back in the 70's. I have to work on it so you have helped me get started. Looking forward to the 2nd video and thank you for your effort.
I have an early 80's troy built since new. Just repowered the 8hp with a 7hp Koehler surplus motor last year. One thing I have always done is adjust the motor belt a tad loose so if I hit a large rock ect it squawks the belt vs the driveline taking the hit. I've squawked the belt plenty over the years and still on the original.
That's a great engine upgrade/swap! And even though the Predator seems to be looked down upon for being a cheap engine from Harbor Freight, it's one of the "honey holes" of engines for farming equipment. As long as you keep up with the oil maintenance, they'll keep going forever.
Thanks, great set. I have the Horse with pto lever. Tiller stays enfaged. Lever turns freely but won’t disengage. Doesn’t seem like it’s hooked up to pto. Any advice? Thanks
I would start by taking apart the tiller tines off the tiller. There are two dog clutches in there and they could be rusted. And with the load of the engine turning, it's not allowing it to disengage. If that's the case, just clean them up and oil them good. While it's apart, also take a look at the dog clutch on the gearbox side. Make sure that, when moving the PTO clutch lever, that it's sliding back and forth smoothly. If not, start by cleaning the parts good and oiling them. Start there and see where it takes you. The Achilles heel of these horse tillers is that all the parts have to be very well lubricated, but spending their life in dirt is not good for the lubrication and creates a lapping compound. So it's a fine dance between keeping them clean and keeping them lubricated. Feel free to reach out to me if you have any questions.
Thank you for your video! I have a troy bilt tiller and the tine part just will not work and is stuck... I tried to open it up and see if it can be fixed it but am having trouble. Do you know what might be the cause for the tine not turning when the engine works fine? The spring is alright too.. Thank you for any help you could provide me with
Sorry I haven't gotten back to you sooner. I'm assuming the spring you're talking about is the one that goes behind the dog clutch on the tiller assembly. If that spring is okay and hasn't eaten through the rubber seal that's behind it, then it's probably one of two things. 1.) You're PTO shaft is worn down 2.) Your worm gear has been worn down. I had a very simiar issue happen to me on this tiller. I would start with draining the gear fluid in the tiller attachment and see how much metal is in the fluid. If there's a lot of gold specs, then the worm gear is gone and will have to be replaced. If you need, you can find a manual for your tiller here: www.brentchalmers.com/TillerManuals.php The best part is they typically include an explosive diagram that shows all the parts and where they go (the section you will need to focus on is the Tiller Attachment Transmission Assemblies), plus some of them even have the part numbers so you can easily find replacements if needed.
I actually used the same gear oil that I used in my 2001 Ford F250, which is 75W-90. I'm actually not sure if that's what you're supposed to use, but it's what I've always used. It has well for me so far.
You can’t buy a horse for $200.00! I love my big red horse! 200’ by 50’ in about 2-3 hours! 40 rows 50’ long each, using the hiller attachment. Granted my soil is sandy loam, but that’s the benefit to living in eastern NC coastal plains!peace
We are so sorry for the lack of response. We were on a long hiatus from UA-cam and are just getting back. Personally, I have always had trouble with any replacement parts that weren't Troy Bilt, so I always go to them directly. I would suggest calling their Customer Support directly at (800) 828-5500. They helped me identify the exact year and model of my tiller through the serial number. Once I had that info, I Googled a parts manual which lists all the parts and Troy Bilt part numbers.
Personally, I went to Troy Bilt directly for all my replacement parts. It did take me a few hours to find everything, but the manual helped a lot. Good luck
'Fantastic three videos. 'Bravo, brother, well done. Part 1, 2, catalog & manuals. I scored that same tiller today and found you quickly on-line. You have made me feel confident.
Good information. If you lose all the music and explain what you are doing, (as an example, what size drill bit did you use to remove the bolt head) because the devil is in the details, it would be an even better video.
Story of my life! My 1970 Troy needs the same thing done. Clean and replace!😊
Thanks for the video. I have a Horse Tiller that I bought new back in the 70's. I have to work on it so you have helped me get started. Looking forward to the 2nd video and thank you for your effort.
I have an early 80's troy built since new. Just repowered the 8hp with a 7hp Koehler surplus motor last year.
One thing I have always done is adjust the motor belt a tad loose so if I hit a large rock ect it squawks the belt vs the driveline taking the hit. I've squawked the belt plenty over the years and still on the original.
That's good to know! I've never thought about it that way. Thanks!
I rebuilt a 1975 without PTO. Great machine!!! I put a Predator 212cc Motor from Harbor Freight, easy install.
Amazing machine
That's a great engine upgrade/swap! And even though the Predator seems to be looked down upon for being a cheap engine from Harbor Freight, it's one of the "honey holes" of engines for farming equipment. As long as you keep up with the oil maintenance, they'll keep going forever.
Where did you buy parts for the repair ?
Thanks, great set.
I have the Horse with pto lever.
Tiller stays enfaged.
Lever turns freely but won’t disengage.
Doesn’t seem like it’s hooked up to pto.
Any advice? Thanks
I would start by taking apart the tiller tines off the tiller. There are two dog clutches in there and they could be rusted. And with the load of the engine turning, it's not allowing it to disengage. If that's the case, just clean them up and oil them good.
While it's apart, also take a look at the dog clutch on the gearbox side. Make sure that, when moving the PTO clutch lever, that it's sliding back and forth smoothly. If not, start by cleaning the parts good and oiling them.
Start there and see where it takes you. The Achilles heel of these horse tillers is that all the parts have to be very well lubricated, but spending their life in dirt is not good for the lubrication and creates a lapping compound. So it's a fine dance between keeping them clean and keeping them lubricated.
Feel free to reach out to me if you have any questions.
Thanks, will do
Thank you for your video!
I have a troy bilt tiller and the tine part just will not work and is stuck... I tried to open it up and see if it can be fixed it but am having trouble. Do you know what might be the cause for the tine not turning when the engine works fine? The spring is alright too..
Thank you for any help you could provide me with
Sorry I haven't gotten back to you sooner. I'm assuming the spring you're talking about is the one that goes behind the dog clutch on the tiller assembly. If that spring is okay and hasn't eaten through the rubber seal that's behind it, then it's probably one of two things.
1.) You're PTO shaft is worn down
2.) Your worm gear has been worn down.
I had a very simiar issue happen to me on this tiller. I would start with draining the gear fluid in the tiller attachment and see how much metal is in the fluid. If there's a lot of gold specs, then the worm gear is gone and will have to be replaced.
If you need, you can find a manual for your tiller here:
www.brentchalmers.com/TillerManuals.php
The best part is they typically include an explosive diagram that shows all the parts and where they go (the section you will need to focus on is the Tiller Attachment Transmission Assemblies), plus some of them even have the part numbers so you can easily find replacements if needed.
Troybuilt did make a generator that would hook up to the horse tiller
What kinda oil you put in the pumpkin on the gear box
I actually used the same gear oil that I used in my 2001 Ford F250, which is 75W-90. I'm actually not sure if that's what you're supposed to use, but it's what I've always used. It has well for me so far.
Can you list the parts you purchased versus the ones you were able to reuse?
The PTO was so torn up and it's so difficult to get in there that I decided to go in with all new parts, so about 99% of all the parts were new.
You can’t buy a horse for $200.00! I love my big red horse! 200’ by 50’ in about 2-3 hours! 40 rows 50’ long each, using the hiller attachment. Granted my soil is sandy loam, but that’s the benefit to living in eastern NC coastal plains!peace
That's an awesome size garden! I've never been successful in using the hiller attachment though. I wish I could be.
I can't find parts for the pto seal on my pony troy do you have a website its like a 1998
Google custom parts inc.
We are so sorry for the lack of response. We were on a long hiatus from UA-cam and are just getting back.
Personally, I have always had trouble with any replacement parts that weren't Troy Bilt, so I always go to them directly. I would suggest calling their Customer Support directly at (800) 828-5500. They helped me identify the exact year and model of my tiller through the serial number. Once I had that info, I Googled a parts manual which lists all the parts and Troy Bilt part numbers.
Welding is difficult for beginners however get a welder learn how, these bolts ,Welding a quarter or 3 8 pipe to the head from inside pipe .
where did you find the parts?
Personally, I went to Troy Bilt directly for all my replacement parts. It did take me a few hours to find everything, but the manual helped a lot. Good luck
Mtd bought greenway out. I purchased a transmission for 800.00 from them it’s an exact match
Easier way would have tried vice grips if that didn’t work easy out
'Fantastic three videos. 'Bravo, brother, well done. Part 1, 2, catalog & manuals.
I scored that same tiller today and found you quickly on-line. You have made me feel confident.
Some one lied to you about being a mechanic, learning how to hold your tongue just right and swearing are 70% of what a mechanic does.
Very true
next time you run afoul of chewed up bolt heads, tack weld a piece of steal to them and they will turn out
Thanks for the advice. I have seen people do it, but have never tried it myself.
Good information. If you lose all the music and explain what you are doing, (as an example, what size drill bit did you use to remove the bolt head) because the devil is in the details, it would be an even better video.
My guess is he junked the tiller! That transmission is 800.00
It’s called a key way