Great videos, easy to follow. I had a question and took the liberty to call Ron and he was very willing to help and added a few extra things I needed to look out for.
This is another of your very clear, clever and ingeniously straightforward instructions on how to address some factors that TOO many boaters obviously are NOT sufficiently aware about, and if we are, thanks to you, may learn how to cope with. Grateful greetings from Norway! Jarle Haugan
Customer asked me if ive done this and I said not yet, after watching this it seems quite straight forward actually. Thanks for a gr8 vid, to the point and easy to understand!
Great video, very interesting. I'm not a mechanic but I do own a V-drive. Even if I never intend to work on my boat myself, it is nice to understand its inner workings.
That is true for larger boats, but smaller ski boats have less flex or "settling" whether on the trailer or in the water, plus it is more practical to do it on the trailer for smaller boats. Removing the stuffing box connector hose to verify where the shaft is coming through the log is not possible while in the water.
Blueing is a blue dye painted on a machined surface to be marked on or machined on not for checking alignment at the couplings. I simply clean the coupling halves up with a little sandpaper or wire wheel on a battery drill
I'm thinking of updating my boat to EFI. I'd love to see a video if you get a chance. My primary concern is the O2 sensor. I've found a block that goes between the exhaust manifold and the riser, but I haven't heard anything about how well that solution works. Thanks for all the great videos.
It's hard to justify the cost vs the gains switching from Carb to efi, the only real gain is cold starts, and a good carb set-up doesn't have issues here .
My husband and I have a 42' 1986 Nova Golden star with a unique looking torsion/flex shaft coupler. Mechanic shop can't find another like it and want to have an extra one on hand if ours is damaged when fixing cutlass bearing. I'd like to send you 2 pics of our coupler (which to me looks kind of like yours - but I don't know anything about boat mechanics/systems) ti see if you could maybe help me find another. Is there a way I can get pics to you? Can I post them here? Thanks!! Laura
Great video. I wouldn't have thought about going near this job, I thought it involved Vodoo, or some deep dark secret society stuff. Greetings from Scotland.
Theoretically it would be the same practice I just would not worry about getting down to .0015", but .003" would be fine. I assume this is not on a conventional ski boat, as we don't use these devices.
I've read that anywhere there is a hose clamp on any type of thru hull, you should use two hose clamps on each side? I suppose if you regularly inspect this it is not an issue but what are your thoughts?
I set mine to .0015" re-check after tightening and they stay there, if you are adjusting one end from side to side but leaving the opposite end stationary you are trying to twist the engine & this will not stay.
I agree, but the vast majority of ski boat builders use 1 clamp on each end, most clamps are perforated that I have seen. The shaft log typically on many ski boats are so short that a double clamp is not even possible. I just changed a shaft log out of a ski boat last week that was made from steel, rusted through, most ski boats we see are cast aluminum. We are designing a replacement shaft seal system and our kit contains (4) non-perforated 316 SS clamps. Good boat building practices have double clamps on every underwater joint & wet exhaust.
I am convinced that no dealer on these late model wakeboats ever checks or sets this with this much detail. Everything is so hacked together now days. Supra dealer has been a nightmare to deal with
Ron i have a velvet v drive that i just replaced transmission trying to get coupling aligned. I have even gap all around but does not want to mate flush. I do have the hose cut in half for centering in the log. If i use a clamp it goes together and i see the shaft pop up. This driving me nuts. Any tips? i did install all new mounts as well. 1987 Wellcraft St Tropez twin 350
In your case the engine and the propeller shaft are parallel but there is a height difference. If the shaft pops up your engine is a bit low, so move the engine up a bit.
Hi Ron you are amazing at what you do. I wish I lived in LA so you could service my boat. Do you know of any quality mechanics like you in California? Particularly Northern CA?
Aligning mt 89 Correct Craft Barefoot 454 inboard. When I removed 4 bolts the coupler it moved to left about 3/4 inch. Also prior to disassembly the shaft was located near bottom of log. I removed the prop, strut and coupler from shaft plus I am replacing strut bearings. I have decided to adjust the strut slightly when I reinstall to align with the center in the shaft log and be closer to the center line of the engine. Then I will adjust the engine to achieve the .003 gap requirements. Does this sound like I am headed in the right direction? Thx...
Yes, but is the strut bent or twisted, before removing any strut I try to determine this, chance are the strut has a twist in it from a strike, these can often be twisted back with a doner shaft and pulling it back. A strut that is "folded" over cannot be fixed. Only after new bearings are in can you tell if the strut needs shimming to adj. up/dn
Thanks for your input. I have everything assembled and it went back together pretty well. New bearings, adjusted the strut and measured shaft for straightness....all is within spec. I do have a concern with the coupling fit to the shaft. The coupling is not a tight press fit. after cleaning and lubrication I can barley slide the coupling onto the shaft without heating the coupling and freezing the shaft. (this is without the key installed into the keyway) This assembly was used to help me align the strut and shaft Log. After everything is assembled I am considering tac welding the coupling to the shaft. Your thoughts.....Thx
Ron I missed what did you do with the split 1" ID piece of hose you used to center the shaft in the log? Video did not show removal nor did you mention remove it. Does it stay inside log?
Instead of the careful flange alignment with feeler guages, why not use heavy duty universal joints? They are used in other applications, why not inboard boat engines and prop shafts?
Hello - I have a 2006 Mastercraft with a V-drive. My boat uses a dripless shaft seal. Should I disengage the dripless shaft seal from the hull before performing the shaft alignment, just like you did for the standard packing seal in the video? Thanks
Yes the shaft needs to run near the center of the shaft log, what I do is remove the coupling bolts, slide the shaft/coupling back 1/4" then lift the shaft coupling up/down/side/side to see/feel/listen to the "clunk" of where the shaft is. If the shaft coupling moves up 3/8"/down 3/8" side to side 3/8" relative to the trans coupling your in the center proceed with alignment. If the shaft/coupling lifts up 1/2"+ and down 0" then you know the shaft is riding low in the log and the engine must go up. Some boats you can see from underneath where the shaft is riding through the log as well.
There are 2 ways to do this, either remove the aft hose clamp and slide the assembly forward to see if the shaft is centered, or you can remove the coupling bolts and lift the shaft up,down,right and left and compare it to the trans coupling, if you get the same travel in each direction relative to the trans coupling you are centered, if the shaft lifts up a lot but not down the engine is really low.
Hi Ron, Great video! I have a newer non ski boat but it is an inboard and I suspect the rubber motor mounts are too soft. When I place my hand on top of the engine, with very little effort, I can rock the engine. How the heck can I ever get it aligned with such soft engine motor mounts? Change the motor mounts? The engine is a three cylinder Volvo diesel. Thanks for your and ONLY your advice. No arm chair mechanics comments please.
Soft, automotive type motor mounts will not work with a conventional "rigid" shaft system. There are "CV" type joints available out there but they require additional distance between the shaft log and transmission, therefore, most boat companies do not use them ans space is very limited.
Thanks for this video Ron. After watching I didn't see any thing change with the front two mounts. Do they need to be adjusted as often as the rear mounts?
Not sure what you are referring to but if you are talking about splitting the coupling halves apart after the bolts are removed, they can be stubborn, NEVER drive a chisel between them, I usually grab the prop with leather gloves on, and twist & pull (adding some soapy water into the strut bearing helps) I am a pretty big guy & can pull pretty hard.
Ron Great video, super clear and concise.. also, really appreciate the detail in covering all the different types of motor mounts in your last video. Quick question. what do you typically use for bedding material when setting in a replacement strut ?
Ron I did this install today on my buddies old malibu flightcraft including installing new cutlass bearings.... wow, super helpful and it went very well. thanks again. also, malibu historically (at least on the older models) bedded the struts with just silicone so thats what I used. I was worried the motor mounts would be frozen and I did have to make a slight horizontal adjustment. but they broke free, so no problems. hope to do an in water test next week.
I'm doing an alignment on a crusader270 in a 1978 28' Marinette cabin cruiser. I've been told that I need to check alignment in the water and not on the trailer??? What do you think???
The bigger the boat the more this would be true, small (under 24') ski boats are very rigid and I have found no difference between on trailer & in water. Larger boats, and boats with poorly supported trailers would require doing the alignment in the water.
Ron. Great videos. I had to completely replace my strut and shaft due to hitting ground. All is back together now with new coupler, stuffing box etc. of course I am off alignment so looking at adjusting. My motor is a pcm. My trunions look to be in decent shape but with some corrosion. A light attempt at adjusting reveals they are somewhat seized. Any tips other that penetration oil to help the along? Would applying some heat to the bore where the trunions go into the motor be a possible help. Any other tips?. All trunion nuts bolts on 4 corners loosened nicely. Thank you!
Feel free to email pic of your mounts directly to me at sales@skiboatpartsonline.com but when I get a mount that I can't get the jam nut to thread by finger only I remove the mount dis-assemble and recondition the parts, if the threaded rod is not too bad simply running the rod/bolt through the wire wheel will clean it up, & if bad I put the rebuild kit in (rear or trans mounts)
Pourquoi il n'y a pas un système de cardan entre la sortie moteur et l'axe de l'hélice et tous ces réglages minutieux et fastidieux n'existent plus ? Merci.
S'il existait une méthode abordable pour faire ce que vous suggérez, boat buildert le ferait. J'ai vu ce que vous décrivez sur des bateaux avec de longues distances entre le moteur et la boîte à garniture utilisant des joints universels, mais l'industrie des bateaux de ski n'a pas ce genre d'espace pour accueillir de tels joints.
@@rontanis1024 Yes, many years ago i worked at a marine business repowering boats of all sizes. .003 is what we aligned to and then final checked with .001 or .0015/ 1 or 1 1/2 thousands or an inch. Great presentation, brings back some old memories.
Ron Tanis The reason for my comment is that not long ago I saw a home made rock crusher or dirt gobbler of some sort. There was a mounted large 6 cylinder diesel and transmission turning a ginormous steel drum filled with big rocks, really noisy. The drum was turned by a shaft about 5 feet long with a u joint at the transmission and another at the drum. The engine was about a foot or so higher than the drum. Wouldn't that be like a CV joint absorbing a lot of thrust turning a drum filled with heavy material. (Keyboard does not have the question mark)
100% of the thrust load in a conventional ski boat is transmitted from the prop directly to the transmission flange, trying to push the engine/trans out of the boat, which is why we use motor/trans mounts that are VERY different than the automotive soft rubber mounts. A thrust bearing would cure this but we just don't have enough room in ski boats. I talked to a customer 2 weeks ago with a MasterCraft direct drive who had to lift the engine to remove the shaft coupling. The coupling haves when split apart only opened up 3/4" ...not enough room to get any kind of wrench in there to remove the coupling /shaft nut.
putting a rubber hose around the shaft is crap, machine a bushing for shaft diameter and tube inside diameter to position the shaft dead center , then alignment
Our videos are intended to help the average boat owner maintain their boats. MOST do NOT have access to a lathe to turn a special bushing tool to be used once every 20 years. The slit hose is practical, cheap, and what some of the major ski boat builders use.
why do you call it a 15 10 thousandth? Nobody knows what that is. Took me a while to figure out what that was ( "is he saying a .010 to .015 go-nogo gauge? -they don't make one of those). A more common term would be 1 and 1/2 thousandths -and good luck with that on other than a new boat. -No seized adjusters? -lucky boy. And BTW -I use go-nogo gauges.
I use .0015" feeler gauge regardless the year of the boat. .001 would be one thousandth, .0015 could be called one and a half thousandth, or 15 ten thousands all depends on the machine shops vocabulary . If an older boats couplings are corroded or damaged they get replaced or we shave a few thousands off to make them right.
If you know of a CV joint that will fit between the narrow distance of the trans output coupling and the shaft coupling I'd love to see it. Can it be done, yes, but it would require at least a shaft change ($$$) and engine re-location ($$$) Motor mount change, and thrust bearings. In the meantime the OEM method works well and is cost effective.
My first time with no experience. I found your video enlightening and to the point. Thank you.
Great videos, easy to follow. I had a question and took the liberty to call Ron and he was very willing to help and added a few extra things I needed to look out for.
Sir, what a professional you are!!!! great work!!!! kind regards Peter Bennett (Gippsland Lakes, Victoria, Australia)
This is another of your very clear, clever and ingeniously straightforward instructions on how to address some factors that TOO many boaters obviously are NOT sufficiently aware about, and if we are, thanks to you, may learn how to cope with.
Grateful greetings from Norway!
Jarle Haugan
Thanks for this video, Ron!
Greetings from Brazil.
Your very welcome!!
Customer asked me if ive done this and I said not yet, after watching this it seems quite straight forward actually. Thanks for a gr8 vid, to the point and easy to understand!
Great video, very interesting. I'm not a mechanic but I do own a V-drive. Even if I never intend to work on my boat myself, it is nice to understand its inner workings.
Great job! Thanks for video!
I have aligned many inboard boats, I have always been told to align the coupling while the boat is in the water.
That is true for larger boats, but smaller ski boats have less flex or "settling" whether on the trailer or in the water, plus it is more practical to do it on the trailer for smaller boats. Removing the stuffing box connector hose to verify where the shaft is coming through the log is not possible while in the water.
When would you need new couplings?
Great video. Thank you ! When people said: The coupling and prop need to be cleaned up, blued, ..What is the meaning of "blued"..?
Blueing is a blue dye painted on a machined surface to be marked on or machined on not for checking alignment at the couplings. I simply clean the coupling halves up with a little sandpaper or wire wheel on a battery drill
I'm thinking of updating my boat to EFI. I'd love to see a video if you get a chance. My primary concern is the O2 sensor. I've found a block that goes between the exhaust manifold and the riser, but I haven't heard anything about how well that solution works. Thanks for all the great videos.
It's hard to justify the cost vs the gains switching from Carb to efi, the only real gain is cold starts, and a good carb set-up doesn't have issues here .
My husband and I have a 42' 1986 Nova Golden star with a unique looking torsion/flex shaft coupler. Mechanic shop can't find another like it and want to have an extra one on hand if ours is damaged when fixing cutlass bearing. I'd like to send you 2 pics of our coupler (which to me looks kind of like yours - but I don't know anything about boat mechanics/systems) ti see if you could maybe help me find another. Is there a way I can get pics to you? Can I post them here? Thanks!! Laura
Great video. I wouldn't have thought about going near this job, I thought it involved Vodoo, or some deep dark secret society stuff. Greetings from Scotland.
What if you have one of those shaft savers between the coupling and motor. Will that throw out alignment when using feeler gauge?
Theoretically it would be the same practice I just would not worry about getting down to .0015", but .003" would be fine. I assume this is not on a conventional ski boat, as we don't use these devices.
What if the gap is perfect but the couplers are off 1/16” left right? Can I move the engine straight sideways? 1987-1990 MC 351W.
I've read that anywhere there is a hose clamp on any type of thru hull, you should use two hose clamps on each side? I suppose if you regularly inspect this it is not an issue but what are your thoughts?
2 clamps each joint on anything below the waterline, when we sell our silicone bellows connector hose it comes with 4 clamps
How perfect does it need to be? After adjusting and tightening the mount bolts it moves slightly
I set mine to .0015" re-check after tightening and they stay there, if you are adjusting one end from side to side but leaving the opposite end stationary you are trying to twist the engine & this will not stay.
Great Info. Thanks.
Only one hose clamp on each end of the hose? Shoukd be double clamped with non perforated 316 stainless clamps.
I agree, but the vast majority of ski boat builders use 1 clamp on each end, most clamps are perforated that I have seen. The shaft log typically on many ski boats are so short that a double clamp is not even possible. I just changed a shaft log out of a ski boat last week that was made from steel, rusted through, most ski boats we see are cast aluminum. We are designing a replacement shaft seal system and our kit contains (4) non-perforated 316 SS clamps. Good boat building practices have double clamps on every underwater joint & wet exhaust.
I am convinced that no dealer on these late model wakeboats ever checks or sets this with this much detail. Everything is so hacked together now days. Supra dealer has been a nightmare to deal with
What kind of issues are you having?
Pouvez-vous expliquer la circulation d'eau douce dans le moteur marin s'il vous plaît
how do you align if the boat has waterless shaft seal. Does it need to be removed to ensure centration in the log?
On many boats you can shine a light up the shaft from below & see if it is riding high,low, or to the side
Ron i have a velvet v drive that i just replaced transmission trying to get coupling aligned. I have even gap all around but does not want to mate flush. I do have the hose cut in half for centering in the log. If i use a clamp it goes together and i see the shaft pop up. This driving me nuts. Any tips? i did install all new mounts as well. 1987 Wellcraft St Tropez twin 350
In your case the engine and the propeller shaft are parallel but there is a height difference. If the shaft pops up your engine is a bit low, so move the engine up a bit.
@@TheAquaPlanning Shaft is straight now just to find out my cutlas bearings are now shot. ugggg
Fantastic - thanks Ron!
Hi Ron you are amazing at what you do. I wish I lived in LA so you could service my boat. Do you know of any quality mechanics like you in California? Particularly Northern CA?
no, not really
Aligning mt 89 Correct Craft Barefoot 454 inboard. When I removed 4 bolts the coupler it moved to left about 3/4 inch. Also prior to disassembly the shaft was located near bottom of log. I removed the prop, strut and coupler from shaft plus I am replacing strut bearings. I have decided to adjust the strut slightly when I reinstall to align with the center in the shaft log and be closer to the center line of the engine. Then I will adjust the engine to achieve the .003 gap requirements. Does this sound like I am headed in the right direction? Thx...
Yes, but is the strut bent or twisted, before removing any strut I try to determine this, chance are the strut has a twist in it from a strike, these can often be twisted back with a doner shaft and pulling it back. A strut that is "folded" over cannot be fixed. Only after new bearings are in can you tell if the strut needs shimming to adj. up/dn
Thanks for your input. I have everything assembled and it went back together pretty well. New bearings, adjusted the strut and measured shaft for straightness....all is within spec. I do have a concern with the coupling fit to the shaft. The coupling is not a tight press fit. after cleaning and lubrication I can barley slide the coupling onto the shaft without heating the coupling and freezing the shaft. (this is without the key installed into the keyway) This assembly was used to help me align the strut and shaft Log. After everything is assembled I am considering tac welding the coupling to the shaft. Your thoughts.....Thx
Really??? I can only assume you are joking with me...
Yes Joking....I purchased a new ARE double taper shaft and coupling....Thrilled.......................... Thx for your support
Ron I missed what did you do with the split 1" ID piece of hose you used to center the shaft in the log? Video did not show removal nor did you mention remove it. Does it stay inside log?
NO it does not stay, it is a temporary tool, I remove it before re-attaching the stuffing box
I did not think so but you edited it out and did not address removal. Just wanted to clarify.
Excelente video !!!!!
Instead of the careful flange alignment with feeler guages, why not use heavy duty universal joints? They are used in other applications, why not inboard boat engines and prop shafts?
Not enough room for a CV joint
Hi Ron, hope you are well and great videos! What is the torque on the shaft coupling bolts?
Hi, how tight do you make the coupling bolts that attach the shaft to the coupler?
Nice video
Hello - I have a 2006 Mastercraft with a V-drive. My boat uses a dripless shaft seal. Should I disengage the dripless shaft seal from the hull before performing the shaft alignment, just like you did for the standard packing seal in the video? Thanks
Yes the shaft needs to run near the center of the shaft log, what I do is remove the coupling bolts, slide the shaft/coupling back 1/4" then lift the shaft coupling up/down/side/side to see/feel/listen to the "clunk" of where the shaft is. If the shaft coupling moves up 3/8"/down 3/8" side to side 3/8" relative to the trans coupling your in the center proceed with alignment. If the shaft/coupling lifts up 1/2"+ and down 0" then you know the shaft is riding low in the log and the engine must go up. Some boats you can see from underneath where the shaft is riding through the log as well.
@@rontanis1024 Should i use this method to for centering the shaft while boat is in water. 1990 tiara 31 open
NEVER REMOVE the shaft packing hose when the boat is in the water!!!@@dougplommer9961
There are 2 ways to do this, either remove the aft hose clamp and slide the assembly forward to see if the shaft is centered, or you can remove the coupling bolts and lift the shaft up,down,right and left and compare it to the trans coupling, if you get the same travel in each direction relative to the trans coupling you are centered, if the shaft lifts up a lot but not down the engine is really low.
NEVER REMOVE the shaft packing hose when the boat is in the water!!@@dougplommer9961
Hi Ron, Great video! I have a newer non ski boat but it is an inboard and I suspect the rubber motor mounts are too soft. When I place my hand on top of the engine, with very little effort, I can rock the engine. How the heck can I ever get it aligned with such soft engine motor mounts? Change the motor mounts? The engine is a three cylinder Volvo diesel. Thanks for your and ONLY your advice. No arm chair mechanics comments please.
Soft, automotive type motor mounts will not work with a conventional "rigid" shaft system. There are "CV" type joints available out there but they require additional distance between the shaft log and transmission, therefore, most boat companies do not use them ans space is very limited.
Thank you Ron, and for the phone call.
Thanks for this video Ron.
After watching I didn't see any thing change with the front two mounts. Do they need to be adjusted as often as the rear mounts?
On direct drives the rears tend to see more movement they carry the weight of the trans and 1/2 the weight of the engine
How the hell did you split the one where the coupling went out to the right? :D
Not sure what you are referring to but if you are talking about splitting the coupling halves apart after the bolts are removed, they can be stubborn, NEVER drive a chisel between them, I usually grab the prop with leather gloves on, and twist & pull (adding some soapy water into the strut bearing helps) I am a pretty big guy & can pull pretty hard.
GREAT JOB!! Thank you!!!
Ron
Great video, super clear and concise.. also, really appreciate the detail in covering all the different types of motor mounts in your last video. Quick question. what do you typically use for bedding material when setting in a replacement strut ?
3m5200 is the only thing I use for underwater bedding.
Ron
I did this install today on my buddies old malibu flightcraft including installing new cutlass bearings.... wow, super helpful and it went very well. thanks again. also, malibu historically (at least on the older models) bedded the struts with just silicone so thats what I used. I was worried the motor mounts would be frozen and I did have to make a slight horizontal adjustment. but they broke free, so no problems. hope to do an in water test next week.
I'm doing an alignment on a crusader270 in a 1978 28' Marinette cabin cruiser. I've been told that I need to check alignment in the water and not on the trailer??? What do you think???
Also struggling with this process in general I just replaced coupler and this is ne engine transmission.
The bigger the boat the more this would be true, small (under 24') ski boats are very rigid and I have found no difference between on trailer & in water. Larger boats, and boats with poorly supported trailers would require doing the alignment in the water.
Great thanks a lot
is it pretty much the same idea for a tunnel drive system?
Tunnel Drive?? if you mean Vee drive, then yes, just more complicated for access
it would be on a 70s penn yan. tunnel drive/twin screws. I'm new to boats sorry.
Ron. Great videos. I had to completely replace my strut and shaft due to hitting ground. All is back together now with new coupler, stuffing box etc. of course I am off alignment so looking at adjusting. My motor is a pcm. My trunions look to be in decent shape but with some corrosion. A light attempt at adjusting reveals they are somewhat seized. Any tips other that penetration oil to help the along? Would applying some heat to the bore where the trunions go into the motor be a possible help. Any other tips?. All trunion nuts bolts on 4 corners loosened nicely. Thank you!
Feel free to email pic of your mounts directly to me at sales@skiboatpartsonline.com but when I get a mount that I can't get the jam nut to thread by finger only I remove the mount dis-assemble and recondition the parts, if the threaded rod is not too bad simply running the rod/bolt through the wire wheel will clean it up, & if bad I put the rebuild kit in (rear or trans mounts)
Pourquoi il n'y a pas un système de cardan entre la sortie moteur et l'axe de l'hélice et tous ces réglages minutieux et fastidieux n'existent plus ? Merci.
S'il existait une méthode abordable pour faire ce que vous suggérez, boat buildert le ferait. J'ai vu ce que vous décrivez sur des bateaux avec de longues distances entre le moteur et la boîte à garniture utilisant des joints universels, mais l'industrie des bateaux de ski n'a pas ce genre d'espace pour accueillir de tels joints.
2 hose clamps per connection if below the waterline --ALWAYS
Made before that.
Nice video.
grate video thanks for the info
What are some signs of misalignment?
vibrations, broken shaft, worn strut bearings, leaking at the stuffing box, etc
Great but your 10-15 thousandth numerals at the end are wrong. You show .0010-.0015 wouldn't the reading be .010-.015 or am I wrong?
Industry standard is .003" I use half of that which is .0015"
@@rontanis1024 Yes, many years ago i worked at a marine business repowering boats of all sizes. .003 is what we aligned to and then final checked with .001 or .0015/ 1 or 1 1/2 thousands or an inch. Great presentation, brings back some old memories.
of an inch. typo
Why not toss the feeler guages and connect the engine to the shaft via automobile CV joints.
1) cv joints are NOT designed for thrust loads
2) Ski boats do not have enough room for CV joints + Thrust bearings.
Ron Tanis The reason for my comment is that not long ago I saw a home made rock crusher or dirt gobbler of some sort. There was a mounted large 6 cylinder diesel and transmission turning a ginormous steel drum filled with big rocks, really noisy. The drum was turned by a shaft about 5 feet long with a u joint at the transmission and another at the drum. The engine was about a foot or so higher than the drum. Wouldn't that be like a CV joint absorbing a lot of thrust turning a drum filled with heavy material. (Keyboard does not have the question mark)
100% of the thrust load in a conventional ski boat is transmitted from the prop directly to the transmission flange, trying to push the engine/trans out of the boat, which is why we use motor/trans mounts that are VERY different than the automotive soft rubber mounts. A thrust bearing would cure this but we just don't have enough room in ski boats. I talked to a customer 2 weeks ago with a MasterCraft direct drive who had to lift the engine to remove the shaft coupling. The coupling haves when split apart only opened up 3/4" ...not enough room to get any kind of wrench in there to remove the coupling /shaft nut.
I hope you meant bronze couplings, NOT brass!
Your correct, easier for me to say brass, but most couplings today are aluminum, or steel, bronze is becoming rare, too $$$.
putting a rubber hose around the shaft is crap, machine a bushing for shaft diameter and tube inside diameter to position the shaft dead center , then alignment
Our videos are intended to help the average boat owner maintain their boats. MOST do NOT have access to a lathe to turn a special bushing tool to be used once every 20 years. The slit hose is practical, cheap, and what some of the major ski boat builders use.
why do you call it a 15 10 thousandth? Nobody knows what that is. Took me a while to figure out what that was ( "is he saying a .010 to .015 go-nogo gauge? -they don't make one of those).
A more common term would be 1 and 1/2 thousandths -and good luck with that on other than a new boat. -No seized adjusters? -lucky boy. And BTW -I use go-nogo gauges.
I use .0015" feeler gauge regardless the year of the boat. .001 would be one thousandth, .0015 could be called one and a half thousandth, or 15 ten thousands all depends on the machine shops vocabulary . If an older boats couplings are corroded or damaged they get replaced or we shave a few thousands off to make them right.
@@rontanis1024 Um, that's what I said -and it doesn't take much to get in the way of a .0015 gauge -and that small is a bit ridiculous.
Industry std. is .003" I use half that & our boats run smooth and our shafts are not snapping off. Been doing this for 40 years.
Buéna expĺíi
stop mucking around , and put a CV coupling in between , don't waist you time with this 1940 method ,
If you know of a CV joint that will fit between the narrow distance of the trans output coupling and the shaft coupling I'd love to see it. Can it be done, yes, but it would require at least a shaft change ($$$) and engine re-location ($$$) Motor mount change, and thrust bearings.
In the meantime the OEM method works well and is cost effective.