HOW WE'RE GETTING WATER OFF GRID!
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- Опубліковано 27 лип 2019
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In this episode, we finish building the platform for our rainwater cisterns and complete the plumbing that connects all three tanks. We're one step closer to being able to collect rainwater! - Розваги
I do so enjoy watching you two. The love between you two and the dog is just a pleasure to behold. Thanks for sharing your love with us...........
Nice, because of your videos inspired me. I purchase 2 acres and make my own home for my baby and my wife tank you I live el Paso Texas God bless.
"Tank you..." I see what you did there! Best of luck to ya!
In the years of watching channels like this, that doubling up of hole-saws was the first idea I didn't already know. I'd probably be thinking about a backer plate or something instead. So thanks for that.
Agreed!
Yeah, I always use a backer, but plastic isn't something I've worked with often.
Ignore all the comments about the tanks not filling without a pump, as long as the tanks are lower than the gutter they will. It may not be the most efficient way of doing it but it will work. What you should have done though is installed a clean/access point at the lowest point as it will end up with a lot of stagnant water sitting in the pipework. All these system are 'make it up as you go' and no one ever gets it spot-on first time, you will be tinkering with them for the rest of your life!! 😃 Keep the videos going and well done so far.
Another enjoyable video about Bear and his two assistants. Nice, simple but effective catchment installation. You might want to think about giving the the PVC pipe a layer of spray paint to protect it from UV.
Or wrap it.
@@TheCaliforniareef why light? Wouldn't you want a dark PVC pipe?
@@sethlouey5064 pre heated water?
A few things.
1) you need to cover or paint the exposed PVC or it will degrade in the sun. In a year or two you will be redoing it. PVC has zero UV resistance.
2) how is this going to effect the out flow from your gutters? The rate of flow from the gutters is inversely proportional to the amount of head pressure. So, the restriction of flowing down a pipe plus the additional head pressure of having to come back up that stand pipe to enter the tank is going to reduce how fast water leaves the gutters. This could become an issue in the future. A potential solution would be to use a much larger pipe from the house to the tanks and then give the tanks each their own standing fill pipe. This would reduce the flow restriction and speed up the water leaving the gutters.
3) I would connect the overflows at the top as well. If you get a heavy enough rain, the small pipe at the bottom may not be able to equalize the levels in the tanks fast enough. By connecting the upper overflows, you provide a second path and potentially save water that would otherwise go on to the ground.
4) since you are going through all of this trouble, I recommend a gray water system as well. This will take water from washing machines and sinks and, store it for uses like watering plants and the lawn. More over, it will preserve your precious portable water.
@durc001 I don't disagree but, putting the tanks underground also brings problems. Actually having them up makes a lot of things easier and, as long as the tanks are below the level of the gutters significantly, it can work. Given the approximately 2ft pillars plus the 9 and 1/2 foot containers, they probably have a net head height of about 4ft. Not a lot but workable if you minimize flow restrictions and are smart about it.
Bear is such a good boy. He wants to help too! This is the best episode yet 😍❤️
In high school I helped build a water collection system in Honduras on a church trip. So much trial and error. We initially had the tanks above ground with logic that you guys are implementing. It didn’t work, the gutters were high enough but the pressure to push the water up a 3 inch pipe was not enough. We eventually buried the tanks below ground, had to hot wire a backhoe, but it saved us a 3 days work, the pipes entered from the top and the earth kept the water cool almost cold. Simple 1/2 hp solar powered pump brought the water to the houses.
I have been wondering if the pressure from the single pipe will be able to fill all tanks. The underground idea sounds like a more practical idea.
That said, perhaps the assumption that water always seeks to level off might help... but I am of the opinion that eventually gravity itself will oppose the rise in water levels because of the entry point.
Hello
I would love to know about the 1/2hp solar pump! We are trying to figure out how to move up to our land and water is currently an issue.
@@ashbolton83did you figure out your water issue?
Brilliant idea with the hole saw and using the smaller bit as an arbor!
That is the way hole saws are designed, you always have a pilot hole for a guide.
Hole saws are made to stack one inside another in case your first hole drilled is too small? Didn't know that. @@toddkratzer7953
You two a really great people. I admire you both God bless
I read a lot of comments about your water system and just want to reassure you that getting water to your tanks will work as long as gravity is working with you. BUT it will require overhead piping to get the drain water into your 1st tank. I personally prefer underground piping into a catch tank that has a lift pump in it to put the waser into the 1st tank. The water in 1 tank will equalize in all 3 tanks in your setup. A good pump in the pumphouse will supply water to your house at a good pressure as long as you stay within your pump's limitations.
I think you guys are on the right track. I really enjoy seeing your videos and THANKS for sharing.
John
Suggest putting a cap on any Open ended pipe until you have a closed system. This would prevent critters from trying to make a home in the nice horizontal hole in the geound
You guys are awesome . Thank you for sharing... have a blessed day.
It's too late now but a adjustable strap wrench works great on those big PVC screw on fittings. Love you guys!
I'd suggest digging up the 4" pvc and running down hill from your gutter to the tanks or at lest on the level, otherwise you will likely need to pump the water up to the top of your tanks. You might consider building a cover with gutters over the tanks to catch even more rain. By the way like u'r vids, Bear is a true star! Blessings.
The dog sounded like it was asking "Whats wrong with you?" So cute. Not laughing at you but laughing with you two. Just so cute.
You two sure have done some work between you. Be so nice when you finished and and can move in for real and enjoy your house properly.
it;s incredible just how much work you two have put in as a two-man show. big props! When its all done build an AirBnB tiny house on the land!
You can use a long strap around the tank and use the trusty CRV to pull the tank.
I am learning all the time with you folks.💯
Thank you for taking me along your journey.👍
Be safe folks and I'll see you on the next video.📹 Peace!✌️😎
Hope you you won't have a very cold winter, love watching you guys.
That's what I was thinking, where I have lived pipes had to be 4 feet down so they were below the freeze line...keep up the good work....
@@nightsong28540 this is texas I think.
@@abshir9677 sugar they still get snow, hail, and. Sleet in Texas. Really does freeze.
@@maryblaylock6545 depends on which part of texas. Been here my whole life and have only seen snow maybe 3 times. It will get down into freezing temps on only a handful of days a year. Rarely multiple days in a row. More northern parts of Texas might see a bit more though.
Been dreaming of building my dream home out of shipping containers and you guys inspire me.
I'll agree to that statement. 🇺🇸
Me too!
I would watch that on UA-cam if you put it up :)
Dido, I was going to build a similar structure until the land owner decided to add the old farmhouse to the deal. So I’m remodeling now. Rain harvesting coming up next.
Its an interesting concept but not sure the economics work out any better than a wood framed house which would also be less constrained by the container shape.
You guys this truly is a labor of love, and so many memories to have, continue success on your homestead and great relationship between you both.
That hole saw hack was great! Always enjoy you guys videos!
I like how you guys just get things done. I'm so inspired thank you. 🎉
Watch those fingers! ❤️
Love you guys!
I read the comments, there are many good suggestions on 'what-you-should-have-done', as to make it 'easier' for you to do 'what-YOU-want'. You guys will admit, there's often 'an easier way'. Suggestion: At the end of your clip/post mention what you are planning for the next week. Then suggestions will come in that you have the 'option' to buy into. Note: Doing what 'you want' vs 'how to do it' best or easier, do not conflict.... 16 years ago I built my cabin, 16' x 16' three stories high. Ground level is a workshop. Second story is the 'Water Tank (1500 gal. 12 volt, RV water pump, solar charged 12 volt golf cart battery, plenty of pressure). Third level, living area, with a full covered porch 5 x 16. Stairs/steps are on the outside and covered. "One day, one guy, helped me lift one board." So no, I didn't build it by myself... I am connected to the grid, and county water, but I am 'off-grid-ready'.
I have tried gravity feed water tanks above ground, the gutters over flow before the tanks got filled!
I basically built a large p-trap because you don't want any standing water sitting in pipes! Promoting insect larvae, mold and algae growth.
I had to dig a big hole and build a deep concrete retaining wall to recess them into the ground $$$$ and added a roof.
Also please think about installing a inline debris catch basin to filter the in coming water and easily clean out dead bugs, leaf and bird stuff with a solar powered sump pump (I used a swimming pool sand filter after the pump) to assist in filling your above ground tanks with pretty clean water.
One 30 amp power line ran underground over by your tanks would power both tank fill sump pump and pressure feed pumps that prefilter for the house.
,You Two are so COOL knowledgeable and Fun to watch, keep up the great work.
I was surprised you didnt use the pvc to move the tanks. A bigger roller doesnt snag.
I suspect those pipes were picked up later
What's the fun in that:-D
@James Smith lol
So you think he should have cut a random length of pvc before things were set and he could take real measurements that would actually work for the system?
I would suggest possibly checking your local plumbing code to see how deep you need to have your potable water supply lines. They need to be below the frost line. Also you have cattle that could crush the pipe break a fitting if its too shallow in the ground, when its wet or during the monsoon season. I am surprised you did not place the tanks on a concrete slab or at least a gravel bed. That way you can build a building over and around the tanks.
Get 4 inch pvc pipe and you can move even big rocks. Set in a row about a foot apart. As you move the item along them pull out the one in the back that just freed up and put it in front and so on... Enjoying the progress!
Laughing at you laughing Roflol! Don't we wish we knew the secrets of HOW the pyramids were built, sure would have come in handy. Excellent efforts and great job! Gosh so much advice below. I am sure you have researched the topic extensively! Applause, applause for forging ahead, working it out as you go. Brave and adorable, are you three! Thanks for the update!
I get so excited when I get your Notification! Love you guys!
very big tank, (x3), i hope a lot of rain for your system...
Something to watch out for with rigid PVC and tanks that will flex with heat and the rise and fall of the water. Rigid PVC may break at the joints. If you find this to be an issue you may want to add a Union and some spa flex coming out of the base of each tank. The spa flex is PVC as well and can be glued with regular PVC glue, but it can handle the minor adjustments to the tanks.
You guys are really fun to watch. Its nice you can laugh at each other while working.
General contractor in Dallas... love what you guys are doing. Concerned that your gutter and downspout system will keep up and not pressurize and overflow. You may need to install a tank/pump combo to keep up with volume of the heavy down pours you need to keep your tanks full. I get the idea and have a tank supplied system at my ranch but I just don’t know that the gravity/distance equation works at those volumes. Simple solution if it doesn’t.
U mk a gr8 couple....happy belated anniversary.....frm India.....tc. all d very best
This is the 1st thing you've done that I can't wrap my head around. Are you trying to have that much potable water in the end? If so without using a ton of bleach or similar other sterilizer and rotating it out at scheduled intervals the filter network will have to be pretty amazing to work that well on unrotated or sterilized stagnant rainwater. If you don't want it potable, I can see that it might work. As for the gutters filling those tanks the way they are set up, you''ll lose more off the roof that you ever get in the tanks, meaning FULL GUTTER pressure probably isn't enough to push it up your vertical inlet pipe with the sq. footage roof you have. Perhaps you've calculated all of this and it just looks bad from my limited viewpoint, I hope that's the case.
The idea is with water seeking its own level. As water enters from the roof into the pipe water will exit into the tank at the other end. I think they have not considered a deluge will not be handled well if this is the means they intend to do it.
@@larrybe2900 I get that, below the house it will fill.....eventually......to many unknowns.....whats required? 10 inches of rain per hour? The average Texas shower isn't going in those Cisterns. I've collected rain water for decades,, all vertical downpipes that collect every drop that falls.
Maybe they will need a 4" pipe for each downspout feeding into the storage tanks to handle the high volume of water during a Texas deluge? That can always be done later, if they are losing too much water due to the limited capacity of a single 4" pipe.
@@ILGuy2012 Good idea...I still have no idea what the plan to make it potable and keep it potable is, or if it's just for flushing toilets?
We moved a shed, yes a shed using three sections of PVC pipe? The same way you did with the shovel handle but with three pieces of 4” PVC pipe. We’d roll it along the top of the pipes. As the shed moved over one section of pipe I would drag it around to the front side so it would always be on top of the pipes until we got it to the right spot. Think about a conveyor system and how boxes move over rollers. I can’t claim this idea as it was my hubby’s plan but I’m usually right there helping like you two work as a team! Great job!
You Sir are crazy....I have pushed, and pushed until that thing should be moved...ANYWHERE....and I am 72 years old and love y'all💞🙋....Ann from Georgia 💕 🙋
I realize that it is very time consuming … LOVE LOVE your videos and story …...
Great Job! If financing would allow, I think I would still install a well for landscaping/gardening and a backup for the house.
Or bury a 2500 gal tank.
you may have a well but even a well has a flow rate and if that flow rate is not high enough you will get a lot of sediment with it. and a well needs a well pump as well so you would need to put the tanks higher to eliminate the need for a second pump.
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YOU TWO are amazing to do all of this project...GREAT JOB.
I would have installed a union on each tank next to your valve plumbing. Just a suggestion. The tanks look great.
True, if you ever need to work on your system, you will need those unions
I was sooo!!! happy when I got my notification.Keep looking forward to this video.
I love watching you guys. I think you are going to have an issue with getting your water into the tanks. Provided your gutters at the house are at least 3-4 feet above the inlet to the tank the water will flow into the tanks but I think you will lose a lot of water due to overflow at your roof. I am a licensed master plumber an also a plumbing designer for an engineering firm in Houston. All rainwater systems we have designed the tanks are close to the structure or underground so the water can flow into the tanks without restrictions. You will be better off elevating your fill pipe above ground an sloping to the tanks from your gutters.
Lol.... wow... so I was also going to mention that I see a potential problem with the "filling of the tanks with the gutter water" design as well. Now I just say that I also agree with the main sentiments of most everyone here that the gravity required to make this work is going to work against you because of the larger diameter fill pipe that you installed. The elevation level doesnt seem (or appear on camera) to be enough to overcome gravity. I hope I'm wrong, but I would look into some kind of a pre collection/filtration type deal, then pump it into the first tank. Then let the gravity do what you rightly said,, in filling up the reste of the tanks. But other than that... it's looking awesome! Keep up the great video production, and the home construction as well!! Love the videos.
I've been following you guys closely since the very beginning and love everything you've done so far, with that being said your plans for the water getting from the house gutters to the tanks isn't going to work. I live in the same general area of Texas and most of the rain you're going to get will be in strong sudden bursts, not extended periods of constant rain. The water is going to overflow your gutter system on the house end long before you get any meaningful flow into the tanks, especially with that uphill section of pipe. This isn't a pressurized system, it's gravity only and the path of least resistance is going to be your gutters overflowing on the house end. You'll get some water to the tanks but nowhere near enough and you're going to need every bit you catch. Also, during a hard rain you're going to get a ton more flow than your single 4" line can handle. The idea of remote locating these tanks far away from the house is a mistake. You guys really should having considered catching rain from the shed/barn roof and locating 2 of the tanks over there then putting 1 tank at the house somewhere to catch water there locally. Please take this as constructive advice based on local experience, not the normal UA-cam trolling and negativity that fills the comment sections normally. :)
A post after my own heart. One of tthe best descriptors for what I fail to convey. Standing water is a resistance. It must be overcome. It will work great the first time the 4" pipe is empty.
My exact thoughts while watching the video. Experienced the same issue here in central Texas. I am afraid you'll need a pump to move the water into the tanks, or a redesign/relocation to address the issues this and many other posts have pointed out.
As this person said, we are not here to criticise or troll. Just providing hard-learned lessons to make your project more successful and less costly.
Good luck and love you channel!!
Agree 100%
I'm in eastern Washington ...though we get some long down pours ...I ran into the same issue. I first started with a 1 1/2" down spout off a standard gutter. First rain I had a waterfall coming over the gutters edge. Fixed by fabricating a taller side and a larger downspout.
If the pipe is significantly higher on the house than the inflow on the tank a 4" pipe can handle a lot of flow. Their house can't be more than 1000 sq ft, a 4" should be fine unless there is some insane rain event. A large downspout and good slope on the gutter is a good idea though. I am a certified water harvesting practitioner and have installed hundreds of water harvesting systems. This is a wet inflow system, the pipes will always have water in them(unless they are leaking), it will make no difference in flow once the water gets moving, which will happen very quickly. The most important thing here is to have the sealed pipe on the house side significantly higher than inflow on the tank, as well as having an overflow as large as the inflow. The amount of flow the 4" can handle can be calculated, and the pipe should be sized according to heaviest expected rain events, not once in a hundred year events, just what you expect over a few year span. For instance, in Tucson we can get 3" in an hour sometimes, so we calculate that along with square footage of catchment area flowing into the system. If you have a really long run of pipe or lots bends then you may want to upsize to compensate for the added resistance. I think you guys are missing part of the physics of what is going on, though your cautionary statements are well placed, as I have had to fix a great many poorly designed and installed systems.
Jo Simon Burying the tanks would have been ideal .... 3/4 underground and thus avoid using electricity to assist in filling.
First let me say that I love you guys, y'all are awesome. I hate to say it though, your solution to get the water from the house to the tanks won't work. First the water has to equalize from the downspout to the up spout, but that's dependent on the size pipe you use at your house. If you use anything less than 4" at the house it'll have to work against the pressure from the up spout. There's probably 10 gallons or more of water in the up spout which weighs 85 ish lbs. I mean it might work better to change the pipe at the tank to a smaller diameter to get it the lift it needs to get it done. But then you run into the problem of water moving fast enough that it won't backflow out at the house. Idk I think there's an issue and there might need to be a redesign. Good luck
A redesign is in order. While water seeks it's own level, you're right about the line size/resistance. The gutters are going to overflow at the house. From gutter to a sump at the house then to sump pump to the tank cluster would be better. But then you have another pump... To help with sediment and such, I would think have stages of tanks. First tank is 'grey' then filter and store in the other two. But then you've got yet another pump since these Norwescos aren't pressurized. At least a roof to keep the sunlight off and will help the water quality and tank life. Also, why have sunk frost cans and then still have 6-8" of supply pipe above ground? Get the biggest pressure tank you can get to help the life of your pressure pump! I got a 120gal in my mech room. Just barely fit through the door but my Grundfos thanks me.
@@LordNelsonkm I thought it would be better if they buried the tanks to eliminate the gravity/back flow question. That's the way it works at my uncle's house in South Texas.
They could probably just add another pipe going to one of other two tanks, or two more filling both remaining tanks at the same time, if there's a backlog at the house.
@Steven Councell that's a lot of diggin for old bear....
Baburek you would still have the problem of trying to lift the weight of water in the up pipe.
I'm building a tiny home and I'm very impressed with how you two can work together. It is difficult for 2 people to work so close and a test of your relationship. The house is nice the relationship is why I enjoy watching you three.
I really love to see a couple helping going forward like this, it's really amazing
you two are great Video bloggers I always look forward to the next edition
Use the left over scraps from the shipping contsiners and barn for a roof over the tanks to protect them from hail
That's a good thought.
Bloody mess, hope you heal quickly 👍😁 bear 🐻 the cutest site manager 😎 well done all of you 🇬🇧👏
Make sure you use big enough downspouts to Handle the volume of water coming off the roof. If the downspouts & gutters are too small you will waste a lot of water over the top of the gutters. I'm guessing by the depth of your puppies freezing water isn't a problem where you live⁉️. PS, Maybe a pop up tent over the water tanks to keep all the sun of of them ???? GOOD LUCK👍👍 Vinny 🇺🇸
Everything looks great ✳️
Great work looks good. You may be able to have the overfill line run to your garden.
Very clean install.
I hope you have budgeted for a very robust water treatment system. I use a system similar to yours for irrigation, and the amount of debris that makes it into your tanks is astonishing. Insects and small animals- particularly reptiles- have an amazing ability to find the smallest opening in your system, crawl inside, and drown. Rotting frogs are a regular on my tank inspections despite screening, and last week I was greeted with a partially decomposed snake. I don't see any diverter filters on your gutters- maybe I missed them?- so every bit of dirt and debris on your roof is going into your tanks. The maintenance on these rainwater systems is relentless, and while my crops don't mind the additional nutrition from dead animals and debris, I am constantly replacing the filters I need to keep the nozzles and emitters from plugging. I predict that after a while using this system, you are going to have an enhanced appreciation for what a wonderful job sand, gravel and soil microbes do in putting clean water into a well. Best of luck.
Can't wait till the next rainy day to see it working like you want. Videos need to be longer or more of them or both.
As a retired plumber your doing it right 👍 looking really good. Love your videos, ❤️
So you guys having fun, have a sweet doggy and no machinery.... So chill and real..
The drill bit thing I used in the middle eighties as Locksmith. It works on metal & wood. It’s cool you taught this trick! 😀
The famous last words I always heard is "hey y'all hold my beer and watch this".LOL Have you checked the flow rate between the tanks through the smaller pipes? You may need to put bigger equalization pipes between the 3 tanks in order to keep up with the rain flow. That is Texas and you get a lot of rain some times I would hate to see you loose water because it can't equalize fast enough.
I think they gonna use the big pipe for it😆
@@Rynaldi_Rizwan The reason I asked is the big pipe is the feed from the house and it looks 4 inch ID.The problem is with the small 2 inch pipe that is the drain also being the equalization pipe during a heavy rain with the tanks half full the one tank will overflow before all the tanks equalize. Cool of them is your equalization pipe should be as big as your feed.
@@kevchard5214 well I am not a plumber but I agree about that😁😁
@@Rynaldi_Rizwan I learned from experience when I was young living in Louisiana we built a camp with rain water catchment and 2 tanks and had this problem.
Looking forward to how it works. I am concerned the water flow from the gutters will not work as you expect. :(
Very Impressive …….Have been watching from Australia since you began your build....and I am really enjoying how dedicated and hard working you both are to get your off grid and sustainable home ! And of course.....Your sense of humour is always enjoyable...Thanks for sharing!
Would recommend filling tank one first, then overflowing into tanks 2 and 3. That way tank one allows for sediment to settle to the bottom and tank 2 and 3 only fill with clear water. You should fill the pipe with water from the house to tank 1 and keep water in it at all times. I would recommend reviewing the Handeeman channel on UA-cam and his rainwater system. Love you guys.
The outlet is a few inches above the bottom. That would give a bunch of volume for sediment to settle in. Water flow would not "stir up" much.
You will need some sort of lift pump to make the water go up the fill pipe. Whenever it rains.i dont think theres near enough elevation your gutters will just overflow in heavy rain.
HOODS CUSTOM SHOP yes agreed. That was my first thought. The downward force of gravity won’t be overcome by that slight elevation. Definitely will need a pump.
Yes, The pipe should have been installed in the air with gradual drop. Back to the drawing board.
@@robertsmith3774 yes that's what I was thinking
@@robertsmith3774 wait...what? If the supply pipe is "U" shaped it will work...it will just stay filled with water at the same height as the outlet into the water tank.
@@nunayafb since the water will have to travel up at least 6 feet the inlet would need to be double the height in order to overcome the back pressure. Will it trickle into the tank? Probably but in the instance of a drizzle the gutters would be overflowing. Not capturing all of the water. It is simple physics taught to real plumbers. They will learn the hard way. And so will you.
Along the same principle of the water level used to establish the piers footings, the gutter collection should flow until the rain stops and then the pipe would hold water, evaporating some until the next rain. I would be a bit concerned if it didn't rain for a time and the pipe water went stale or if there was water in it t during winter, freezing water would burst the pipes.
Loved the explanation guys, This reminded me of a story. A lady at work was telling her friend how grossed out she was, she had a water truck come in the previous month to fill her water tank and he left the lid off a crack, she noticed about 2 weeks in the shower head was getting slower and slower, seems a squirrel dropped in the tank and ROTTED, the fur was stuck in the shower head ROFL, GAG ME.....
Bet you're tired of negative comments. Having been involved in building a water system, my best advice it to provide for ease of making changes. You are two bright people that learn from your mistakes. The problem I see is that you will be getting water in really big slugs followed by no water for long periods. I think your design will work better for frequent moderate rains. In any case, I wish you the best and really enjoy your videos. After giving this some thought (second guessing you), it seems to me that the 4 in pipe should be increased to at least 8 inches. In addition, it should be split at the tank end to flow into all three tanks simultaneously. That would eliminate the need for overflow from one tank into another into another. One overflow from each tank into a garden or whatever.
I'll be amazed if gravity has enough pressure to fill the tanks. You might need a 55 gallon tank with a float operated pump to transfer gutter runoff to the tank. The runoff has to push against a huge head pressure. Fyi use very small grid screening to protect bugs and critters from getting into tanks from overflow!
Sean Signer I think your right plus smaller pipe and a check valve to the tank and a fill tank out give it constant psi
Tanks are looking good so far! I'm jealous of those big babies! I use 275Gal IBC totes, which work okay, but the ones you have are the way to go for sure! Check out the Harbor Freight well pump (has a small pressure tank and operates off 110v, good starter pump I think), I've been using it all summer for my garden and washing my cars and stuff, thing works absolutely MINT for the price!
Nice! Yeah man, for the price, they can't be beat!
Great job, well not the part where you screwed your hand. You're going to have to have a lot of rain to fill all three of those tanks. But, what an amazing way to get distilled water. I just love watching you guys.
Get all water you can get.Being off grid and gathering nature’s bounty feels pretty good and also self sufficient.Good Work Y’all!!!!
i have the same tanks and lids in canada and im having issues water evaporating, you guys have higher temps then us. i suggest burying or building cover for them
Black tanks and lids. Think black car with black upholstery. Broiling!
That's why they put them under the trees
@@btbcc12859 thats not enough
I like how you guys do all this work like you've been doing it for years!
Everyone is now giving away trade secrets all over youtube. Yay!
I so enjoy watching the adventures of you building your dream home ! Laughing over the mistakes & unplanned events are great for a strong relationship and healthy! Look forward to seeing the next episode!
I love how happy you guys seem. Can't wait to get my home built. Best of wishes 💝
Bear: "Stick! Me help get it."
2 minutes later...
"Stick heavy Mom. Me have to dig. Me good digger."
Spencer, nice hack with hole saw, I'll have remember that one. 🙂
I believe I would have Buried one of those big black tanks so water would just run into it by gravity and it would run all downhill. And it would be the initial filtering of your water. when the buried tank is almost full I would run a pump to take that water out of that tank and put it into the two other tanks. These other two tanks are the tanks from which I would draw my water for the house. The mostly buried tank would just be your catchment. With that filtered water being pumped into your two on grade tanks.
I might have a 200 gallon tank above my roof line for a gravity feed into the house for the shower, washing machine, dishwasher, garden hose, Etc. Each day or maybe a couple times a day water would get pumped from one of your big black tanks 2 the water tank that is above your roofline. Not over your house but above the height of your house. There is a difference. I don't remember the calculation for figuring distance dropped and size of pipe for the water pressure at the far end of the pipe. But it is easy to find and calculate.
As for pumping the water from the black tank up toward the house I'm just thinking of a little trickle pump that might move half a gallon a minute. so it would take less than 8 hours to fill up your 200 gallon tank that is giving you your water pressure for the house. I can't imagine you guys would use 200 gallons in a day. Perhaps 50, or 60 gallons. maybe on laundry day you might use a hundred gallons. But that trickling of the water to fill your household tank would help ariate the water which helps prevent several water problems. Your solar system could easily run that trickle water pump, which would run on Demand only.
But I like others don't think your gutter system drainage system is going to work very well if you have anything other than very long light rains. You might want to use very large gutters. like 6 inch wide 4 in deep gutters. and then have a 6 or 8 inch pipe going from the house to the tanks. you're going to have too much resistance if the pipe is completely full since you have no pressure other than gradient, gravity pressure to overcome all that friction of the water against the pipe, if the pipe is full. hopefully a 6-inch or 8-inch pipe would only ever get half full. If that.
Great ingenuity on solving the hole problem, I will file that away in memory should make the same mistake. You two are so great together, I have totally enjoyed your build. I look forward to following you two if you continue with this channel.
Awesome video you guys. Have an amazing Sunday, Andreas from Off Grid Sweden 🇸🇪
Woooo love this channel!
In the future, if you ever have a need to enter the tanks invest in an Oxygen (O2) meter. Test the atmosphere before entering - it could save your life.
Nice holesaw tip. I think you should do a 1 minute video just showing how to do that in detail. A tip that I am sure many DIYers would find useful.
Always in my prayers 💕 xoxo Thank you so much for sharing your journey with us.
Everything stops when the life uncontained video comes out. I have to see my fav UA-cam video star Bear and his awesome costars. Great job y’all, very informative.
Will there be some sort of pre-filter between gutters and first tank to filter out particles, leaves, dead bees or ants etc. so that they don't make it into the first tank and beyond?
Normally, I see water collection system with a debris collector, so as to not load up the storage tanks with silt and junk.
Plus, what is the frost level in your area? Will the system freeze?
I'm afraid you will find yourselves fighting gravity on this system too.
You will need UV protection on those PVC pipes as well.
You kids are just remarkable...& so is Bear!!! I also love watching your love story!!! Y’all keep up the great work!!!
There are a lot of well meaning people who have commented on here who have no idea what they're talking about. I have built a very similar system to yours and it works perfectly. Two things you still need to do are at near the lowest point of your 4" line going to the house install a tee or more precisely an Inspection opening tee which will have a thread and cap on the off take. Buy one with a rubber ring seal or large "O" ring sealing the cap. You will need this as this low part of the line will become a leaf trap and this cap can be undone to flush out the leaves plus stagnant water that has stood in the pipe for a while. To be completely successful the offtake of the tee will need to be horizontal. Secondly you will need to seal off the tanks with fly wire to stop the bugs and mosquitos moving in. Don't screen the pipes as you'll impede the flow. I'm Australian and all of our water tanks have a fly wire screen dish built into the top of each tank to stop the bugs and to act as a leaf trap. Our pipes are open ended from the house and the water has to pass through the screen dish to get into our tanks. Others have said to paint your exposed pipework as it isn't UV resistant. Another tip is use barrel unions on the inlet and outlet of your pump so you can swap out the pump without destroying the pipework. Don't bother painting the tanks as nothing will stick to them and you'll be able to tell how full your tanks are by the temperature difference at the water level. Even though your tanks are black they won't affect the water temperature in the tanks much as poly is a really bad conductor of heat and compared to the volume the colour will have little affect. Another tip is to install a filter immediately off the pump discharge. Enjoy.
After the last vid and this one I cannot believe you pushed them. Tip them over and roll them - CONSERVATION of movement and energy!
You know, if you tip those on their sides you can roll them instead of having to push them. Just sayin
lol
Oh that is so hillarious but he just does it for the exercise...
Could damage tank outlets on bottom side there pretty heavy and outlets are plastic
Or she could help lol
Go buy 3 pieces of 2” steel pipe at Home Depot and roll it anywhere you want
A dead man a come a long and some steel pipe and you can almost anything by yourself. A dead man is a device with a long strong handle with a heavy duty steel wedge at one end with a small single wheel right before the wedge This allows one man to lift a heavy object a few inches. A come a long is a chain hoist with a jack style handle instead of a chain to operate the hoist this allows horizontal as well as vertical use.
You guys are doing such a great job. Not only with the work that you're accomplishing on your new home, but also with documenting your progress, triumphs, and setbacks. You should be proud. I wish I had taken more time to document my off grid living to share like you guys are. Best wishes.
Awesome hole saw hack..... wouldn’t have thought of that in a million years ..... will def be useing that in the future...👍
OMG! Wouldn't have been as funny if you tipped the tanks over and rolled them. :-). Thank you!
You guys are cute and I like your project, but your editing & sense of humor takes your videos from good to great!
Bear was so right on how to do this job. It's funny he can get you two to do so much. Great video Bear keep them coming enjoying them completely! Thanks
Gotta say great tip Spencer, coz this will def be something I will do and now will use your tip!