Your 95 Hijet looks like my 96 4WD Hijet. I'm jealous of your A/C and EFI. I'm going to get rid of the rusty white look as soon as we have some warm dry weather so I can "paint" it inside and out with medium gray Monstaliner polyurethane bed liner. I saved this awesome video because I'm sure my Hijet is going to need front brakes some day. Thanks!
Thanks. Everything you will do I will do as well with my rust/bed/paint. I'm am just waiting for the weather to warm up as well. Thanks for being here. More to come.
@@JCMFix - I've been getting through blackberry winter, the month of cold weather with biting wind that demoralizes us after a couple of February days hinting of spring, by 3D printing Hijet accessories and repair parts - door lock pull knobs, covers for the back of the ugly headrests where I can mount a sticker without putting it on the truck, and most recently, a large cup holder. I've been posting the parts on Thingiverse if anyone else wants to 3D print their own parts.
A C-clamp and an old brake pad works sooper easy too and costs less. Did you measure the rotor thickness before condemming the rotor? Is it scored or otherwise grooved?
Yep. I've done the C clamp and old brake pad before I bought the tools. Nope, I didn't measure the thickness. The repair shop already deemed them bad and needing replacement so I just called it a day and replaced whatever came on it from Japan with the proper replacement parts.
What’s with the anti seize? You torqued everything and ruined the job with anti seize…. Nothing goes on the back of the pads or caliper piston. Synthetic brake grease goes on the slide pins and the brake pad hardware. Your should also clean the bracket where the caliper hardware goes and not beat your pads in.
My guy. Do you not watch enough videos on YT to see people doing exactly what you are saying and some who do not follow what you are saying and do exactly what I'm doing? Some people do it your way, many people do it my way. It is what it is. Thanks for watching though.
@@JCMFix I’ve been a mechanic for 23 years professionally anti seize doesn’t belong anywhere in the brake system. If you put anything on the back of the pads, it’s disc brake quiet (sticky stuff) to stop vibrations. Anti seize goes on spark plugs and bolts. I’m not a trying to be a bully, anti seize should never be smeared all over brake pads. Just because you see it on UA-cam doesn’t mean it’s right.
@@squashy1982 And your credentials mean just as much as nothing as well as you will find just as many people with the same or more years in the biz who do it the exact same way as I am showing. I'm not saying you are wrong, just remember, this world is huge and MANY people all over the world have reasons why they would do it the way I show it or another way all together. That's all I'm saying. In the end, everything is working fine and nothing will be stuck when it's time to remove. More to come.
That is still carbureted. Fuel injection was not available until the 200 series which started in 98 or 99. Also, diagonal cutters work best for removing cotter keys. And dont reuse cotter pins. Replace them.
Your 95 Hijet looks like my 96 4WD Hijet. I'm jealous of your A/C and EFI. I'm going to get rid of the rusty white look as soon as we have some warm dry weather so I can "paint" it inside and out with medium gray Monstaliner polyurethane bed liner. I saved this awesome video because I'm sure my Hijet is going to need front brakes some day. Thanks!
Thanks. Everything you will do I will do as well with my rust/bed/paint. I'm am just waiting for the weather to warm up as well. Thanks for being here. More to come.
@@JCMFix - I've been getting through blackberry winter, the month of cold weather with biting wind that demoralizes us after a couple of February days hinting of spring, by 3D printing Hijet accessories and repair parts - door lock pull knobs, covers for the back of the ugly headrests where I can mount a sticker without putting it on the truck, and most recently, a large cup holder. I've been posting the parts on Thingiverse if anyone else wants to 3D print their own parts.
@@Liberty4Ever Wow. That's next level right there. So far, everything is intact with mine.
What is the actual Thread size on the hub. I have a couple of Lug Nuts that are a bit rounded off.
Center Bore / Hub Bore: 66.1 mm
Bolt Pattern (PCD): 4x110
Wheel Fasteners: Lug nuts
Thread Size: M12 x 1.5
Wheel Tightening Torque: 88 - 118 Nm
A C-clamp and an old brake pad works sooper easy too and costs less.
Did you measure the rotor thickness before condemming the rotor? Is it scored or otherwise grooved?
Yep. I've done the C clamp and old brake pad before I bought the tools.
Nope, I didn't measure the thickness. The repair shop already deemed them bad and needing replacement so I just called it a day and replaced whatever came on it from Japan with the proper replacement parts.
whered you get the brakes and rotors im having a difficult time finding parts and part numbers
Hi Uncle. I mentioned everything on screen within the captions that were coming up.
It's also in the Description above the comment section.
How are good morning
Morning! Let's get these brakes done!
What’s with the anti seize? You torqued everything and ruined the job with anti seize…. Nothing goes on the back of the pads or caliper piston. Synthetic brake grease goes on the slide pins and the brake pad hardware. Your should also clean the bracket where the caliper hardware goes and not beat your pads in.
My guy. Do you not watch enough videos on YT to see people doing exactly what you are saying and some who do not follow what you are saying and do exactly what I'm doing?
Some people do it your way, many people do it my way. It is what it is.
Thanks for watching though.
@@JCMFix I’ve been a mechanic for 23 years professionally anti seize doesn’t belong anywhere in the brake system. If you put anything on the back of the pads, it’s disc brake quiet (sticky stuff) to stop vibrations. Anti seize goes on spark plugs and bolts. I’m not a trying to be a bully, anti seize should never be smeared all over brake pads. Just because you see it on UA-cam doesn’t mean it’s right.
@@squashy1982 And your credentials mean just as much as nothing as well as you will find just as many people with the same or more years in the biz who do it the exact same way as I am showing.
I'm not saying you are wrong, just remember, this world is huge and MANY people all over the world have reasons why they would do it the way I show it or another way all together.
That's all I'm saying.
In the end, everything is working fine and nothing will be stuck when it's time to remove.
More to come.
@@JCMFix "And your credentials mean just as much as nothing" damn dude.
@@Bricketts Same to you my dude. Thanks for watching. More videos to come to help the world out.
That is still carbureted. Fuel injection was not available until the 200 series which started in 98 or 99. Also, diagonal cutters work best for removing cotter keys. And dont reuse cotter pins. Replace them.
EFI is what i have.
i bought an Erwin removal tool right after this for the cotter pins.
Thanks.