What kind of check valve for a system that uses dual sewage grinder pumps? Any environments where check valves should NOT be used? From your video it seems you aren't a fan of ball check valves.
I have a flapper style check valve installed horizontally just upstream of my septic effluent tank pump. I was told to remove the check valve because in winter the effluent in the pipe upstream of the check valve can freeze. The volume in this piping is not enough to cycle the pump after the effluent drains back into the tank. Anyone have opinions on this?
I'm having the same issue. I removed the check valve because of this. I've gone through two pumps in 6 years. I think this is because my pump is running more than it should. This is due to volume of water left in the discharge line (approximately 200' long to the sand filter) falls back in the tank and keeps cycling the pump, wearing it out. The only thing I know to do remove the check valve during winter months and re-install during the spring.
I have a ejector pit in our basement with a 2 inch zoeller check valve. the pump is usually always fine but this week noticed it kicks on then is kicking on a few more times then i finally hear the water hammer sound from the valve closing. i recorded it doing it the other day sounds like the check valve is only working sometimes i can clearly hear the water coming back down in the pipe after it pumps until i hear that valve close. my question is could it just be the check valve or does it sound like the pump is going bad and cant force the water to that check valve to get it to close. i ordered a replacement flapper for the check valve i have but wanted opinions.
@@RCworstwateryea i thought that could be a issue to didnt install it but its been in there for awhile. thought it might be plugged the weep hole. i was going to drain the hot water tank i have in there after i replace the check valve and see if that really hot water could break anything or clean it up some.
@@RCworstwater So changed check valve was still doing the same thing took the vent hole off. there is a weep hole drilled and seems to be fine it is pushing water out of it. my thoughts is if i have to open this cover all the way im just going to get it over with and change the pump hoping it is going bad its been here for like twenty years. any other thoughts the pump does seem to like short cycle and that is the problem im hearing i even tried a different electric source.
@@RCworstwater alright found what was exactly wrong I changed the pump anyways. The float switch was bad but still turned on and off. But it would just fall by itself when the float dropped from the top. So it would turn on right when it got to the top the shut off really fast bc the top of the switch would fall with the white float if that makes sense to you guys. When I flip the switch with my hand it’s like there is no bump to keep it up while the float slides down the rod.
@@Kohler61350 Smart move Jason, thanks for the follow up. Sounds like the old pump has a float switch on its way out. Hope the new pump is still running good.
I was told by one manufacturer spring assisted valves should not be used in sewage pump applications? what are the options for a 3" check value in a sewage pump application?
Thanks. a lot of good information here. Perhaps a bit off topic, but certainly related, and i cant really get my head around some good answers to this: How do these styles (in particular spring loaded with 1-5 PSI cracking pressure) compare to pressure vacuum breakers (PVB) and reduced pressure assemblies (RP or RPZ) used in irrigation, which cost 10x to 50x as much (1" size)?
What kind of check valve for a system that uses dual sewage grinder pumps? Any environments where check valves should NOT be used? From your video it seems you aren't a fan of ball check valves.
Does this block smells as well?? I.e. a sewer pipe connected to a septic tank. Can one of these check valves prevent gas flowing back into the house?
Can that flapper style be used horizontally inside a tank for a low pressure 1-1/2 force main?
I have a flapper style check valve installed horizontally just upstream of my septic effluent tank pump. I was told to remove the check valve because in winter the effluent in the pipe upstream of the check valve can freeze. The volume in this piping is not enough to cycle the pump after the effluent drains back into the tank. Anyone have opinions on this?
I'm having the same issue. I removed the check valve because of this. I've gone through two pumps in 6 years. I think this is because my pump is running more than it should. This is due to volume of water left in the discharge line (approximately 200' long to the sand filter) falls back in the tank and keeps cycling the pump, wearing it out. The only thing I know to do remove the check valve during winter months and re-install during the spring.
do PVC chek valves ever need to be replaced? why would it go bad?
Will one of those flapper pvc check valves keep sewer gases from backing up? Or would sewer gases still make their way through a check valve?
Excellent communication skills and information.
Thank you kindly!
The first check valve you talked about would that prevent siphoning to the sprinklers in my aerobic system
🌹
What would cause the ball check valve to crack and blow off the threaded cap and ball?
I have a ejector pit in our basement with a 2 inch zoeller check valve. the pump is usually always fine but this week noticed it kicks on then is kicking on a few more times then i finally hear the water hammer sound from the valve closing. i recorded it doing it the other day sounds like the check valve is only working sometimes i can clearly hear the water coming back down in the pipe after it pumps until i hear that valve close. my question is could it just be the check valve or does it sound like the pump is going bad and cant force the water to that check valve to get it to close. i ordered a replacement flapper for the check valve i have but wanted opinions.
First step is to replace the check valve. It is also important to make sure you have a vent hole drilled in the discharge piping.
@@RCworstwateryea i thought that could be a issue to didnt install it but its been in there for awhile. thought it might be plugged the weep hole. i was going to drain the hot water tank i have in there after i replace the check valve and see if that really hot water could break anything or clean it up some.
@@RCworstwater So changed check valve was still doing the same thing took the vent hole off. there is a weep hole drilled and seems to be fine it is pushing water out of it. my thoughts is if i have to open this cover all the way im just going to get it over with and change the pump hoping it is going bad its been here for like twenty years. any other thoughts the pump does seem to like short cycle and that is the problem im hearing i even tried a different electric source.
@@RCworstwater alright found what was exactly wrong I changed the pump anyways. The float switch was bad but still turned on and off. But it would just fall by itself when the float dropped from the top. So it would turn on right when it got to the top the shut off really fast bc the top of the switch would fall with the white float if that makes sense to you guys. When I flip the switch with my hand it’s like there is no bump to keep it up while the float slides down the rod.
@@Kohler61350 Smart move Jason, thanks for the follow up. Sounds like the old pump has a float switch on its way out. Hope the new pump is still running good.
I was told by one manufacturer spring assisted valves should not be used in sewage pump applications? what are the options for a 3" check value in a sewage pump application?
Did you not get an answer I would like to know it.
@@keithbotelho9189 Unfortunately no answer...
Thanks. a lot of good information here. Perhaps a bit off topic, but certainly related, and i cant really get my head around some good answers to this: How do these styles (in particular spring loaded with 1-5 PSI cracking pressure) compare to pressure vacuum breakers (PVB) and reduced pressure assemblies (RP or RPZ) used in irrigation, which cost 10x to 50x as much (1" size)?
What type would you use with a sewer grinder sump pump?
Usually the ball check valve is what we prefer.