2014 Buick Encore Turbo Replacement (P0299)
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- Опубліковано 23 вер 2018
- A failed wastegate caused a P0299, requiring replacement. Coolant and oil must be changed when doing this. Replacement of the oil drain tube is recommended. (I did but it's not shown)
When reassembling:
1. Bolt the cat to the block first and the v-band goes easier.
2.Manifold bolts are a huge pain to get back on... just keep trying until you get lucky.
3. Lower coolant hose on the turbo is hard... hold the hose firm and turn with wrench. At some point it will catch and thread or you'll lose your mind. (Up to you)
This song drove me nuts but I fixed it. Yes the video was a bit long and wasn't edited/filmed 100% right but thank you anyways for doing your best. Without this video, I might not have been able to do the job
I didn't hear one curse word. Very good sir
the music drowned out the cursing
Great vid man!!!
It is mach easier and faster to use impact wrench.
Makes the job way more comfortable!!!
God bless you that you have the patience Looks like a nightmare repair! I hope mine lasts for the life of the car lol
I see lots of people replacing turbos before they have done the full diagnosis. the p0299 code means low pressure at the inlet to the throttle body. This can be cause by numerous problems that might have nothing to do with the turbo itself and should be eliminated first. These are, a boost leak, air filter blocked, missing non-return valve to the 2 stage PCV system (inside inlet manifold), faulty boost pressure sensor. I have never checked my pressure sensor but when doing your boost leak check you will be applying up to 20psi to the inlet system so by using your scanner you should be able get a reading from the pressure sensor. A sqweaky waste gate arm is not a diagnosis of a failed turbo necessarily. Now of course once you get the turbo out you can do a thorough look at the impeller, make sure the shaft is turning, wastegate operation etc. Most turbos fail because the oil cooks in the oil feed line which then plugs up this line, stopping oil flow to the turbo bearings. If the oil feed line is the earlier type (with no heat insulation around the outside of this line) then you should replace this line ASAP, whether you have turbo problems or not.
the 2016 came with what looked like aluminum foil wrapper around the inlet for what they call "insulation" xD
@@billychapman3100 Yes.. I added to that when I replaced my tube.
I completely wrapped the oil feed line in aluminum tape. The old one had collapsed and was burnt beyond recognition.
The hose & hose clamp removed in order to get to that 2nd catalytic converter bolt is no joke. Everything else has been a breeze, I'm struggling trying to get that hose off.
I didn’t think my Encore had a Turbo ,so all Encores have turbos?
Yes I believe so
This car has caused me soooo many issues. The dad part is that I don't have any more money to get a mechanic to fix it, or money to buy a new car :(
Hello, such a friend, I have a little problem is that the mechanic changed the turbo but did not connect a turbo water hose
Question were can I find a slightly bigger turbo that will increase power but not reduce reliability. Im on look for an increase to boost it 200/220hp
ZZPerformance
Any advice on just changing out a leaking coolant pipe going into the turbo?
Remove the turbo like he showed
Do turbos need to be tuned (I'm not sure what that means, but just heard about it), or is it just plug and play?
Plug and play in this instance. Most aftermarket set ups aren't vehicle specific and would require tuning. (Wastegate and blow off adjustments to manage boost, fuel delivery might require modified to accommodate boost)
@Mark Those are your "Tuner" cars that kids like to modify for racing 😉
I ended up having to cut that 3 inch hose off the bottom of the turbo going to the intercooler.
I am trying to replace my catilitic converter on my 2014 Buick encore and that might be a life saver on removing that hose I was trying to figure out exactly to do it
@@hamtalker2007 idk if I'm too late, but soaking that 3" hose with some Kroil lubricant can sometimes break the seal. That hose gets so hot right there and grips the barbs really tight.
What's making you replace the converter?
Anyone with this vehicle should take the time to wrap the oil inlet line (located on top of the turbo right under the heat shield) with some exhaust manifold wrap & tie wire. Insulation on this line is important being it's a quarter inch stainless steel tubing cooking with oil in it.
Hi Billy. I just purchased a 2016 Encore, by any chance do you have a pic of the line you talking about? I will definitely like to whap it like you said. Thank you.
Hi there, Ricardo. The line I am speaking is located between the aluminum heat shield & the turbo. It is a small 1/4" stainless steel like that screws directly into the top of the turbo. It is referred to as the "oil inlet line" for the turbo. You have to remove the heat shield (3 small bolts) then you see the line. You'll then have to undo the lines mounting bolt of the motor, the undo the line at the turbo. From there you can pull the line out from the motor. Be sure not to lose any of the seal washers for the line.
Thank you so much
Thank you very much, where can I buy the exhaust manifold wrap? Also once I unbolt the line, is any oil going to come out?
Ricardo, sorry I'm just replying back. You can find exhaust manifold wrap at local parts stores like O'Reilly's/Autozone. You can probably buy it online cheaper from Amazon. Buy a small roll as you won't need a ton. I made 2 full wraps around the line which will give it about 1/8” -1/4” of insulation. Then I used some aluminum tie wire and wrapped that around to bind the wrap.
Awesome video, thank you very much. How long are these turbos expected to last? I just bought a 2014 that has 93k on it.
That's a great question. I hope you get an answer.
My grandmothers is getting replaced right now at 62,000 😤
@@hardface23 Holy shit they screwed you over! The turbo itself is 500 online... Its not $1300 of work!
I just replaced mine at 126,200 at the dealer for 1300
Turned out that my grandmas encore wasn't having the turbo go out... It was a piston ring
They say if you change the turbo oil feed line every 30,000 it will prevent this problem
Identical to the chevy cruze
My Garrett turbo has 300,000 miles still strong..most issues are waste gate no closing..causing no boost.. easy fix ... instead most spend 3000 buckss for nothing my friends encore Garrett turbo has 430,000 miles runs strong.. if you read the owners manual use 87 octane 6 tanks on the 7th use 93 keeps ash from forming around waste gate seal 🔥 your welcome
Did you ever get code p0234?
I've seen that code thrown when the rubber hose isn't connected at the bottom of the turbo going to the intercooler.
No a p0299
How long those this actually take???
It took me about 6-7 hours to replace it. The two hardest parts were getting that hose off of the bottom of the turbo and getting to that coolant line bolt screwed into the manifold.
how did you know that the turbo was gone
I was getting a lot of stuttering with my Encore. Later that day a loud rattling started as I would give it gas, and then diminish when I let off. Then the rattling noise became constant and it threw and engine code. Made it home & tested my engine code, but it didn't actually give code for cause. I have a stethoscope with a metal rod inserted into it, probed around and the noise was really loud by the waste gate. So I commenced to dropping the turbo out, found the turbine broken off & the blades ate up from free spinning inside the housing. I was sure it was a lubricant problem, so I tried to blow through the turbo oil inlet. It was clogged...I even put a 150psi of air on it & the plug wouldn't budge. So the plugged turbo oil inlet was the cause of the turbine failing. Taking everything down wasn't bad, reassembling was a pain in the ass mainly due to the coolant inlet & outlet being really tight & not forgiving.
@@billychapman3100 thanks mine is losing power after about 30 min to 45 min of driving you think it could be the turbo?
@@microlove100 is it throwing any codes? Normally the power loss is from start to finish, that was what I experienced.
10:57 people say this is an easy job , they are lying. Iv done it , it was a pain in the a
Can't see a majority of what's being done
My favorite part is where you completely omitted the banjo bolt for the other coolant line. The hardest part of the whole job.. doesn't get shown. Downvoted.
For anyone in this and the predicament I was.. through the fenderwell is your best opportunity. Use a screwdriver to hold the line stationary, and use a combo wrench.
What banjo bolt are you speaking of? Only one I know of for this year model is located on top of the turbo for the oil inlet & very accessible. The coolant lines are stainless steel fitting lines & located between the turbo & motor.
@@billychapman3100 well, see, that's where you're mistaken. There are two banjo bolts for the coolant lines that attach to the block. One is on the front side of the block, tucked in behind the accessory drive. It "requires" a special tool to hold the rubber hose in place and not stress the hose crimp to remove it. It takes a combo wrench, or ratchet wrench, a screwdriver, and patience--without the GM tools--working from the fender well. The hardest part once you come around to the side of the car--is getting the bolt started back, straight. To the best of my memory, I pushed it with an awl while I turned it with my other hand to get it started back. Because you can't get two hands in there. Barely two fingers. The other is closer to the back of the block and quite accessible. If you have alldata, pull the car up. Go to turbocharger replacement, and you'll see the bolt and tool required.
@@HondaHead270 ah yes, you're correct about the 2 banjo bolts there on the block for the coolant lines. I didn't even bother removing them from the block which is why I forgot about them. Rather, I simply disconnected the fittings from the turbo. Not near the fight you had apparently lol.