Got this multimeter about one year ago and I’m really glad I did. Most of my testing is of fire alarms and their components and other domestic type electrical stuff
I like the way the correct probe sockets light up; that would be really helpful for me as I don't use a multimeter regularly, and it's easy to forget to plug into the correct holes. Accuracy was really good too. However, I won't be getting one, because I have a weakness for buying almost every new multimeter I see, and then leaving most of them unused in my tool drawer, so I must stop 🙂
I just received mine. Minor but welcome changes include defaulting to DC measurement when powered on, and the back-light now remains on until switched off or if the meter goes into standby after 15mins of inactivity.
I'm seeing all these great comments and I'm wondering if there's something wrong with the unit I have. It seems to work okay most of the time but sometimes it doesn't measure accurately. I'll have it set on resistance or diode function. I'll try to read a diode and I'll get say OL on the screen. I know I've got the probes in the correct position as far as positive and negative. I'll move on to the next diode and I'll get a reading of say 0.5 volts. Then I'll go back to the first diode and now it too will read 0.5 volts. So I'm confused as to why it's doing this.
You missed quite a few other features if it goes above 80v the screen turns red as well as the no contact voltage check you can check with just the positive lead
I already have an in expensive Fluke in the $100 plus dollar range. But I always like to have a spare. Watched your review and clicked the Amazon link. I purchased one. Present price is $35 US delivered. Thanks for the review.
I've had mine for a couple years and love it. I did the comparison shopping on Amazon and it won, or I got tired, I don't quite remember. Absolutely no regrets though. I did change to needle style probes as default, but I work a lot on tiny circuits. It takes other probes nicely. I've used this unit on mains, and 600V internals of a tube amp, but normally on low volt DC electronics. The timeout annoyed me for a while, but the battery has lasted so long, I changed my mind about that - and if you hit the function key when it has timed out, it comes right back (though you might have to choose the function again). I also used the temp measurement up to over 600C testing a hot air gun and it handled it perfectly. Just an incredible deal. Cheers for your multimeter gauntlet - awesome!
I’ve had 2 cheap meters trashed because of leaking 9 volt batteries. Ray O Vac Pro batteries. I’ll try new batteries but damn, I’m glad I didn’t pay a lot for them.
Was there an option to have an audible signal with the continuity test? I didn't hear any beeping when you were testing it and was curious as to whether or not there was an on/off switch for it?
Excellent! Excellent review! The best review of this multimeter i have seen. And i have seen dozens! I have owned an HT118A and a HT118C for a few months already. And i absolutely love them. Instead of a Kweets, mine are Meterk (HT118A) and Habotest (HT118B). I have seen this series of multimeters (including the HT118D) with many different brand names. There are literally dozens of brand names. But they're all built exactly the same. One thing i would really like to ask you is. How can i get my hands on one of those Multimeter Gauntlets? Did you purchase it? Or did you build it yourself? Once again great job. You made a subscriber out of me. Cheers!
Hey John! Thanks for the kind words! I made this gauntlet because Kaiweets swore to me that their meter was great, and so o called them out on it, they said "try us!" You can catch the video here: ua-cam.com/video/moZ1AnBw-Ls/v-deo.html
@@SimpleElectronics i got one of their meters it has a bluetooth icon lights up on screen im guessing it was gonna be a function but they didn’t add it is it possible to ask them about that ?
@@NegativeRail: Hello Jakob. They are basically the same multimeter. They both have the exact same specifications. The major difference is that the HT-118A is an auto ranging multimeter. And the HT118C is a manual range multimeter. Plus it can test 1,5V and 9V batteries. It all depends on if you prefer auto ranging or manual ranging meteres. Like i said in my first comment. I absolutely love my HT118A and HT118C. Meters. I'll use any one of them at any given time. It really only depends on which meter i just feel like using. I hope this helped you in some way. Cheers
The Off or idle reads 12.5 Engine running 13.7 Engine running with AC and lights on it's 12.2.. Is the alternator bad???? I don't need to replace it right away do I??? This morning (warm temperature) I turn on the engine and it did start until the 3rd try.... I just went to my auto mechanic and he said the battery is still good.. the battery is only one year old .....and he said the alternator is still good
The bluetooth symbol shows up on the LCD display when you first turn it on. Does it have any Bluetooth capabilities? Or is it just a display from another better multimeter that's been put on this lower end model?
i have habotest ht118a.i compared with holdpeak hp-890cn. unfortunately the measurement speed of ht118a is slow. To test this, you can measure the fluctuation of tp4056's output.
This meter is everywhere lately. I kept seeing ads for it. I broke down and ordered it today off Amazon. Waiting to see if I shelve my fluke and make my Kaiweets my top meter.
I'm not sure it's a replacement for a Fluke but it is certainly a great meter! It has quickly become my go-to meter even though I have a Snap-On meter here
@@SimpleElectronics I bought one and literally within 30 mins it was boxed up and on its way back, the continuity beep was so quiet as to be inaudible and for me that made it a no go meter for me.
This meter goes by other names, I have the Habotest HT118D which is the same exact meter but its the full manual dial and everything else is the same... Very rugged and build very well... Found out these are calibrated by a German company hence why it's very accurate! Got mine a year ago for $15 from Ali express and came in a nice case with all accessories! Used it recently on a Toyota corolla's transmission speed solenoid and it supposed to read between 10 to 15 Ohms and the meter read right in between at 13 Ohms super perfectly accurate! Batteries last for ever if you don't use it cause I haven't change any batteries since I got it and still fires up like new! Worth every penny especially when using it on BMW's...
I just picked one of these up from Amazon. I saw a coupon for $14 plus tax and couldn’t pass it up, to give it a go. I love it! It doesn’t have that “Fluke feel”, but it’s an insane deal.
Sure! But measuring solar panels is a bit of a complex thing - I did make a video testing solar panels that you can apply to this multimeter though: ua-cam.com/video/8C7Vt1Htprw/v-deo.html
Thank You so much for most comprehensive in depth review . As of May 2024 , I want to buy a accurate entry level DMM for SMD electronic component testing and measuring voltages . I have budget of $ 50 . Though looks stunning high tech sexy I am controlling myself not to go for colour bigger screen but will definately prefer backlight colour lcd . As my knowledge is limited I will prefer both auto /manual mode . I have read that kaiweet , multicomp , aneng , uni-t all are actually OEM products . Can you pls. suggest best suited reliable , sturdy dmm with best build quality . I will have to check whether it is available here in India as well as its not possible to import due to high customs duties. Thank you. Keep it up .My best wishes.
I noticed that your meter defaults to DC when switched to the first Voltage position. MIne however defaults to AC. I have to press the Function Key to change to DC. Anybody notice that has this meter notice that?
@@SimpleElectronics I have noticed while watching other UA-cam video's that some default to AC. Might be a safety issue because years ago with analog meters, one of the safety precautions was to switch the meter to AC so that when used the next time, the meter movement would be protected from damage. Those were the days when most meters never had fuse protection. I have a digital bench multimeter that switches to AC position before DC both volts and millivolts. I would like to hear from others that have bought the Kaiweets HT118A that have the same issue. Anyway, thank you for a very informative video...
@@SimpleElectronics I found out that Kaiweets actually designed this meter for Electricians since AC is what is measured most of the time. Later they got complaints from many people in the electronics field that bought the Kiaweets HT118A and decided to change the default mode to DC instead of AC. So I think many of them have been changed. Really does not matter. The meter functions work either way. Just wanted to let you and your viewers know.
Does anyone have thoughts as to this versus the Fluke 115? For basic/mid-level household and hobbyist voltage/current use, how does this stand up to the 115 in terms of price to performance? The cheapest I ever saw the 115 is $200, and frankly I wonder whether I would ever know the difference.
I am sure that you've already made your decision two months after posting the comment, but for any other folks curious about your question who might actually read this, Fluke meters are not expensive just because of quality, they are expensive because they have exceptional quality control and big name electronics/electrical companies and organizations such as NASA or the US military will tend to stick with Fluke brand meters just because they have been around, and been consistently reliable for so many decades that they are able and willing to pay the price for the trust in their accuracy and quality control that comes with the name, AND since they've been around for decades, companies have trained their personnel to use them and wouldn't want to have to rewrite their training material. This does NOT mean that their products are actually BETTER than others, it simply means that they have earned the trust of organizations who need their test equipment to just work, and work consistently the same out of the box each time. So the name Fluke comes with trust. That being said, unless you are a company that needs to be able to trust the precision of your test equipment down to 0.001% accuracy, and have a dozen or more technicians you're supplying with them or something, then no I don't believe it's AT ALL worth the ridiculously jacked up price tag. I'd rather buy a meter, calibrate it and take the small chance of finding out it's slightly inaccurate, then have to go through the trouble of getting it replaced, than to pay 6x as much as I need to for an equally well functioning meter. Being established as the standard in anything makes a product skyrocket in price, but trust in a brand does not equal functionality necessarily. Check out EEVBlog's video called "Why are Fluke meters so expensive" or something like that
I wish I had an insulation tester - but high voltage is where I draw the line, personally. For work above 220v I would definitely invest in a Fluke or other reputable brand - the thing is, most people looking at multimeter reviews are simply working below 12v DC
@@SimpleElectronics there are some electricians who do not recommend a multimeter to work with high voltages. They recommend other types of devices that are very expensive from the Fluke brand and cost more than $2,000.
Has anyone used the MIN/MAX feature of this meter and tested it for accuracy? I want to purchase a multimeter with that feature (my old Radio Shack lacks it) so that I can periodically capture my 12V car battery's voltage drop during engine cranking at startup (I've heard that the minimum voltage "rule of thumb" when the starter engages is 9.6 volts). Does the owner's manual explain the MIN/MAX feature adequately?
The min/max function is to know what is the minimum and maximum measurement that has been reached in a specific measurement, whether in farads, volts, amps, etc.
Its good at most times. However, it is crappy when measuring voltages sometimes. Lets say the initial voltage reading was zero and you pressed min/max. If you connected the multimeter to something out of the 6v range, the multimeter would read OL constantly unless you turn off min/max. I guess its poor programming by the manufacturer.
Yes it does and I think it's 15 minutes, but you can bypass the auto-off feature by holding down the function button while you turn it on. When you do bypass it, the little clock in the upper left-hand corner of the screen will not be visible.
ive heard this before... ive tried a few other meters... after a while they for whatever dont hold zero. some do but something else is off... Fluke 117 or 87v for me... no more cheap stuff.
I got one and loved the light up sockets and etc. Sadly i broke it within 5mins. I used the duty cycle function in a 120v wall socket. Noticed it was not reading properly. Read manual and it is not supposed to do the duty cycle func over 50-60v. Can't quite remember. Anyways i bought another and i am very happy with this meter.
I bought a Kmoon HT118A four months ago. Used it for 2 weeks then put it aside. I picked it up again recently but found something wrong. When the dial is set in the 4 light blue gears, ALL lights(top, whole screen, 4 insert jacks) are blinking and sound beeping. Everything seems fine when the dial is in the orange gears. Changed batteries but no help. Do you have any idea what might go wrong? Thanks.
@@SimpleElectronics I cleaned the dial contacts with alcohol but no luck. It failed at the gears(light blue) that take alternating signals. Probably the chip failed prematurely.
Just bought one for 26$ US and thought well, whatever, it's probably gonna be okay for that few money, without many expectations. But after watching your video, I feel like I really stole that thing 😅 A bit hyped now!😂
I think the point of this is that teh cheaper multimeters have come a LONG way and yeah - I wouldn't use it as a professional electrician, but I have used it as a professional mechanic and it works great!
It is not a proper multimeter review if you don't open it up to show us the quality of the circuit board, the components, the layout and whether or not the fuses are compliant to safety standards. I notice that many of these "reviews" for this brand of multimeters omitted these important points. Please address these points for future updates to the review.
Absolutely! I doubt very much if it's fully compliant with the relevant standard EN/ISO 61010-1 and at that price point the correct HBC fuses are unlikely to be used.
3:43, ffs. The multimeter is out of focus in the initial shot. Does it get any worse than this? The manual itself is garbage, full of typos and malapropisms, to the point it would be dangerous for a novice to try to use--yet you gloss right over this. Just awful.
Got this multimeter about one year ago and I’m really glad I did. Most of my testing is of fire alarms and their components and other domestic type electrical stuff
I just received this today and I'm glad I came across your video and that this is a good multimeter! 🙏 thank you
I like the way the correct probe sockets light up; that would be really helpful for me as I don't use a multimeter regularly, and it's easy to forget to plug into the correct holes. Accuracy was really good too. However, I won't be getting one, because I have a weakness for buying almost every new multimeter I see, and then leaving most of them unused in my tool drawer, so I must stop 🙂
When it did that I was like NO WAY! and I found out after buying one.
Amazing multimeter for this price point!!! For the average home user or even a pro, this comes very close to the Fluke that costs many times more!!!
I just received mine. Minor but welcome changes include defaulting to DC measurement when powered on, and the back-light now remains on until switched off or if the meter goes into standby after 15mins of inactivity.
Amazing what you can get for under $50 these days.
Would like to see a "REL" or "Tare" function for measuring low resistance, to zero the probes.
Thank you for your time testing this thing! You da man!
Just purchased this a couple of weeks ago, excellent for field engineering work.
I'm seeing all these great comments and I'm wondering if there's something wrong with the unit I have. It seems to work okay most of the time but sometimes it doesn't measure accurately. I'll have it set on resistance or diode function. I'll try to read a diode and I'll get say OL on the screen. I know I've got the probes in the correct position as far as positive and negative. I'll move on to the next diode and I'll get a reading of say 0.5 volts. Then I'll go back to the first diode and now it too will read 0.5 volts. So I'm confused as to why it's doing this.
Where can I find a test board like the one you are using in the video?
I got one, I have no complaints about it at this point. And actually I really like it.
Thanks for your review..got one coming!!
You missed quite a few other features if it goes above 80v the screen turns red as well as the no contact voltage check you can check with just the positive lead
Thanks for the video!
That's was very helpful and I bought one already
I already have an in expensive Fluke in the $100 plus dollar range. But I always like to have a spare. Watched your review and clicked the Amazon link. I purchased one. Present price is $35 US delivered. Thanks for the review.
How do you like it?
Just bought one, thanks for the video! I got it for the thermocouple use.
Fantastic. It is now on my wish list
I've had mine for a couple years and love it. I did the comparison shopping on Amazon and it won, or I got tired, I don't quite remember. Absolutely no regrets though.
I did change to needle style probes as default, but I work a lot on tiny circuits. It takes other probes nicely.
I've used this unit on mains, and 600V internals of a tube amp, but normally on low volt DC electronics. The timeout annoyed me for a while, but the battery has lasted so long, I changed my mind about that - and if you hit the function key when it has timed out, it comes right back (though you might have to choose the function again). I also used the temp measurement up to over 600C testing a hot air gun and it handled it perfectly. Just an incredible deal.
Cheers for your multimeter gauntlet - awesome!
Try holding the function button down, then turn it on, usually disables the auto power off for one session.
7:39 did u make the resistance/current box. If yes would like if you show us how to.
I’ve had 2 cheap meters trashed because of leaking 9 volt batteries. Ray O Vac Pro batteries. I’ll try new batteries but damn, I’m glad I didn’t pay a lot for them.
HT118A multimeter. Really helpful. Thank you." Bang on!"
The tests make this review awesome. That's how all reviews should do it.
What do you suggest .... the Venlab VM-600A or the Kaiweets HT118A?
Was there an option to have an audible signal with the continuity test? I didn't hear any beeping when you were testing it and was curious as to whether or not there was an on/off switch for it?
There is definitely an audible continuity test - it's not quite as fast as I would like it but it's pretty good!
Excellent! Excellent review! The best review of this multimeter i have seen. And i have seen dozens!
I have owned an HT118A and a HT118C for a few months already. And i absolutely love them. Instead of a Kweets, mine are Meterk (HT118A) and Habotest (HT118B). I have seen this series of multimeters (including the HT118D) with many different brand names. There are literally dozens of brand names. But they're all built exactly the same.
One thing i would really like to ask you is. How can i get my hands on one of those Multimeter Gauntlets? Did you purchase it? Or did you build it yourself?
Once again great job. You made a subscriber out of me.
Cheers!
Hey John! Thanks for the kind words! I made this gauntlet because Kaiweets swore to me that their meter was great, and so o called them out on it, they said "try us!" You can catch the video here: ua-cam.com/video/moZ1AnBw-Ls/v-deo.html
@@SimpleElectronics i got one of their meters it has a bluetooth icon lights up on screen im guessing it was gonna be a function but they didn’t add it is it possible to ask them about that ?
Hi John. How would you say the ht118a and ht118c differ in function? I’m torn between the two.
@@NegativeRail: Hello Jakob. They are basically the same multimeter. They both have the exact same specifications. The major difference is that the HT-118A is an auto ranging multimeter. And the HT118C is a manual range multimeter. Plus it can test 1,5V and 9V batteries. It all depends on if you prefer auto ranging or manual ranging meteres.
Like i said in my first comment. I absolutely love my HT118A and HT118C. Meters. I'll use any one of them at any given time. It really only depends on which meter i just feel like using.
I hope this helped you in some way.
Cheers
The Off or idle reads 12.5
Engine running 13.7
Engine running with AC and lights on it's 12.2..
Is the alternator bad???? I don't need to replace it right away do I??? This morning (warm temperature) I turn on the engine and it did start until the 3rd try.... I just went to my auto mechanic and he said the battery is still good.. the battery is only one year old .....and he said the alternator is still good
The bluetooth symbol shows up on the LCD display when you first turn it on. Does it have any Bluetooth capabilities? Or is it just a display from another better multimeter that's been put on this lower end model?
i have habotest ht118a.i compared with holdpeak hp-890cn. unfortunately the measurement speed of ht118a is slow. To test this, you can measure the fluctuation of tp4056's output.
I "like" how the bar graph doesn't update any more quickly than the digital readout. 🙄
This meter is everywhere lately. I kept seeing ads for it. I broke down and ordered it today off Amazon. Waiting to see if I shelve my fluke and make my Kaiweets my top meter.
I'm not sure it's a replacement for a Fluke but it is certainly a great meter! It has quickly become my go-to meter even though I have a Snap-On meter here
So how is it so far? As compared to Fluke?
What's the difference between A and C version? Can it detect cables in walls?
Does it bleep immediately on continuity??? sone have a delay which I don’t want
it is pretty fast but I have seen faster for sure.
@@SimpleElectronics I bought one and literally within 30 mins it was boxed up and on its way back, the continuity beep was so quiet as to be inaudible and for me that made it a no go meter for me.
I like the accuracy of this multimeter. Could you please tell me that from where we can get this kind of calibration circuit board?
I should be able to check AC 240 like a water or a dryer
This meter goes by other names, I have the Habotest HT118D which is the same exact meter but its the full manual dial and everything else is the same... Very rugged and build very well... Found out these are calibrated by a German company hence why it's very accurate!
Got mine a year ago for $15 from Ali express and came in a nice case with all accessories! Used it recently on a Toyota corolla's transmission speed solenoid and it supposed to read between 10 to 15 Ohms and the meter read right in between at 13 Ohms super perfectly accurate! Batteries last for ever if you don't use it cause I haven't change any batteries since I got it and still fires up like new! Worth every penny especially when using it on BMW's...
I just picked one of these up from Amazon. I saw a coupon for $14 plus tax and couldn’t pass it up, to give it a go. I love it! It doesn’t have that “Fluke feel”, but it’s an insane deal.
Where did you got the meter gauntlet? I want one
Really nice for around the house and on vehicles
Can you do a how to test a solar panel with this meter?
Sure! But measuring solar panels is a bit of a complex thing - I did make a video testing solar panels that you can apply to this multimeter though: ua-cam.com/video/8C7Vt1Htprw/v-deo.html
Was curious about the diode testing. Do you know what voltage it test diodes with?
Probably with battery voltage - so like 3v
Witch is best, UNI-T Digital Multimeter UT161B or Kaiweets HT118A
I'm in need of a new one and wasn't sure what a 35$ multimeter could do.. you talked me into this one.
I'm going to have this, this DMM is available in India a HTC branded
This has self calibration feature.
Did you make the test board, if so can you post a link to instructions, or did you buy it? Great review,
I made it: ua-cam.com/video/moZ1AnBw-Ls/v-deo.html
@@SimpleElectronics Yea, I searched your channel afterwards and found it, should have posted the link myself. Thanks though, awesome test tool.
How does the HT118A compare with the HT118E?
Thank You so much for most comprehensive in depth review .
As of May 2024 , I want to buy a accurate entry level DMM for SMD electronic component testing and measuring voltages .
I have budget of $ 50 . Though looks stunning high tech sexy I am controlling myself not to go for colour bigger screen but will definately prefer backlight colour lcd .
As my knowledge is limited I will prefer both auto /manual mode .
I have read that kaiweet , multicomp , aneng , uni-t all are actually OEM products .
Can you pls. suggest best suited reliable , sturdy dmm with best build quality .
I will have to check whether it is available here in India as well as its not possible to import due to high customs duties.
Thank you. Keep it up .My best wishes.
I noticed that your meter defaults to DC when switched to the first Voltage position. MIne however defaults to AC. I have to press the Function Key to change to DC. Anybody notice that has this meter notice that?
Very interesting, I've tried a few things and it always returns to DC...I wonder what the difference is.
@@SimpleElectronics I have noticed while watching other UA-cam video's that some default to AC. Might be a safety issue because years ago with analog meters, one of the safety precautions was to switch the meter to AC so that when used the next time, the meter movement would be protected from damage. Those were the days when most meters never had fuse protection. I have a digital bench multimeter that switches to AC position before DC both volts and millivolts. I would like to hear from others that have bought the Kaiweets HT118A that have the same issue. Anyway, thank you for a very informative video...
@@SimpleElectronics I found out that Kaiweets actually designed this meter for Electricians since AC is what is measured most of the time. Later they got complaints from many people in the electronics field that bought the Kiaweets HT118A and decided to change the default mode to DC instead of AC. So I think many of them have been changed. Really does not matter. The meter functions work either way. Just wanted to let you and your viewers know.
I bought in UK and my meter defaults to AC , its surprisingly annoying , and if you dont use the meter for a while its easy to forget .
Does anyone have thoughts as to this versus the Fluke 115? For basic/mid-level household and hobbyist voltage/current use, how does this stand up to the 115 in terms of price to performance? The cheapest I ever saw the 115 is $200, and frankly I wonder whether I would ever know the difference.
I am sure that you've already made your decision two months after posting the comment, but for any other folks curious about your question who might actually read this, Fluke meters are not expensive just because of quality, they are expensive because they have exceptional quality control and big name electronics/electrical companies and organizations such as NASA or the US military will tend to stick with Fluke brand meters just because they have been around, and been consistently reliable for so many decades that they are able and willing to pay the price for the trust in their accuracy and quality control that comes with the name, AND since they've been around for decades, companies have trained their personnel to use them and wouldn't want to have to rewrite their training material. This does NOT mean that their products are actually BETTER than others, it simply means that they have earned the trust of organizations who need their test equipment to just work, and work consistently the same out of the box each time. So the name Fluke comes with trust. That being said, unless you are a company that needs to be able to trust the precision of your test equipment down to 0.001% accuracy, and have a dozen or more technicians you're supplying with them or something, then no I don't believe it's AT ALL worth the ridiculously jacked up price tag. I'd rather buy a meter, calibrate it and take the small chance of finding out it's slightly inaccurate, then have to go through the trouble of getting it replaced, than to pay 6x as much as I need to for an equally well functioning meter. Being established as the standard in anything makes a product skyrocket in price, but trust in a brand does not equal functionality necessarily.
Check out EEVBlog's video called "Why are Fluke meters so expensive" or something like that
were did you get the multimeter gauntlet
I made it! ua-cam.com/video/moZ1AnBw-Ls/v-deo.html
The little covers are great! There is a good reason to use them inside of a guitar amp.
Picked it up for $39.99 just now.
Thanks!
Can you test insulation resistance with 1000 and 500 volts
I wish I had an insulation tester - but high voltage is where I draw the line, personally. For work above 220v I would definitely invest in a Fluke or other reputable brand - the thing is, most people looking at multimeter reviews are simply working below 12v DC
@@SimpleElectronics there are some electricians who do not recommend a multimeter to work with high voltages. They recommend other types of devices that are very expensive from the Fluke brand and cost more than $2,000.
I did not see you put a battery in it.
What is a good multimeter that can test on circuit board components.
Any of them will do the job!
Has anyone used the MIN/MAX feature of this meter and tested it for accuracy? I want to purchase a multimeter with that feature (my old Radio Shack lacks it) so that I can periodically capture my 12V car battery's voltage drop during engine cranking at startup (I've heard that the minimum voltage "rule of thumb" when the starter engages is 9.6 volts). Does the owner's manual explain the MIN/MAX feature adequately?
The min/max function is to know what is the minimum and maximum measurement that has been reached in a specific measurement, whether in farads, volts, amps, etc.
Its good at most times. However, it is crappy when measuring voltages sometimes. Lets say the initial voltage reading was zero and you pressed min/max. If you connected the multimeter to something out of the 6v range, the multimeter would read OL constantly unless you turn off min/max. I guess its poor programming by the manufacturer.
Purchased the dedicated case for this meter at Amazon too. Perfect fit for the all the probes as well.
Does it have auto-off?
Yes it does and I think it's 15 minutes, but you can bypass the auto-off feature by holding down the function button while you turn it on. When you do bypass it, the little clock in the upper left-hand corner of the screen will not be visible.
ive heard this before... ive tried a few other meters... after a while they for whatever dont hold zero. some do but something else is off... Fluke 117 or 87v for me... no more cheap stuff.
I had to return the multimeter. The measurements on the display jump back and forth.
Might have to pick one up, i like the light reminders for forgetful people like me lol.
I got one and loved the light up sockets and etc.
Sadly i broke it within 5mins.
I used the duty cycle function in a 120v wall socket. Noticed it was not reading properly. Read manual and it is not supposed to do the duty cycle func over 50-60v. Can't quite remember.
Anyways i bought another and i am very happy with this meter.
Não foi um dos fusíveis que se rompeu?
Did you check replacing fuse?
I got this baby for automotive class she is arriving tomorrow
I'm buying one of those
Can this do microfarad?
It can!
You monster! How could you remove the screen protector without letting us see? Otherwise, a great review.
Hehe the evil rears its ugly face
I thought it was an informative and impressive review. I purchased one.
What's the max capacitance this can measure?
100 mf
Those covers arent stupid when you are probing a dense board, like anything modern.
I bought a Kmoon HT118A four months ago. Used it for 2 weeks then put it aside. I picked it up again recently but found something wrong. When the dial is set in the 4 light blue gears, ALL lights(top, whole screen, 4 insert jacks) are blinking and sound beeping. Everything seems fine when the dial is in the orange gears. Changed batteries but no help. Do you have any idea what might go wrong? Thanks.
No idea! I would start by cleaning the dial contacts with alcohol and go from there
@@SimpleElectronics I cleaned the dial contacts with alcohol but no luck. It failed at the gears(light blue) that take alternating signals. Probably the chip failed prematurely.
Where to find a magnetic hanging strap that fits it? All the Best! 73 DE W8LV BILL
Good information
I’ll even settle for just the name of the test board you are using in the video
Why do you assume nobody would read the manual?
Thanks. What's the range of capacitance can it read?
God bless, Rev. 21:4
Got mine yesterday
the bargraph refreshes very slow...
I bought this multi meter but not for the reasons that you would think… It’s because it makes me look thin lol
Mine has a bit of a screen flicker
Update. I returned it and got a replacement. No screen flicker!
Just bought one for 26$ US and thought well, whatever, it's probably gonna be okay for that few money, without many expectations.
But after watching your video, I feel like I really stole that thing 😅 A bit hyped now!😂
I still have it and use it almost every day - very nice unit
@@SimpleElectronics That's nice to hear! I'm looking forward to it!
And thank you for your video, good work 👍
Keep it up!
Great meter. Just goes to show you don't need a Fluke to get the job done. You can get great cheap meters that work.
So funny it looks identical to mine but mine is by Total. I did not know a multimeter could do all of this. And the price? cheap.!
This has self calibration feature.
I'm a little tardy to the party lol, but I just bought this one. I really like it so far 👍
Work get your tester ?
I made it! Right here: ua-cam.com/video/moZ1AnBw-Ls/v-deo.html
How to install battery?
Bang on
That's a rebranded Habotest HT118A.
Well, you can actually get an unbranded HT118A so who knows what if any difference at all between those.
@Janardan S hahaha. they are pretty good tho.
GREAT METER !
Until you go outside and the sun is out. Then it goes in to Stevie Wonder mode.
You just have to put on your $295.00 Oakly shades and all will be fine!!!
$29 plus $9 off on Amazon now!
I wanna buy because of rugged design.
It's 2023 No more mechanical selector switches!
better than anyone? it's the same as Habotest HT118A
13 bucks on amazon.
it's way better than the top of the line fluke multimeter.
He provided an Amazon link... don't buy it, he's only recommending it to earn Amazon commission.
its habotest multimeter ht118a
I mean if you can't afford a Fluke I guess. Probably not made for professionals. Maybe some DIY guys.
I think the point of this is that teh cheaper multimeters have come a LONG way and yeah - I wouldn't use it as a professional electrician, but I have used it as a professional mechanic and it works great!
Hobotest it is the same model
It is not a proper multimeter review if you don't open it up to show us the quality of the circuit board, the components, the layout and whether or not the fuses are compliant to safety standards. I notice that many of these "reviews" for this brand of multimeters omitted these important points.
Please address these points for future updates to the review.
Absolutely! I doubt very much if it's fully compliant with the relevant standard EN/ISO 61010-1 and at that price point the correct HBC fuses are unlikely to be used.
That look exactly like my super cheap China to chinese poor man rice burner knock-off of DR. METER PM18 multimeter !
😂😂😂😂
3:43, ffs.
The multimeter is out of focus in the initial shot. Does it get any worse than this?
The manual itself is garbage, full of typos and malapropisms, to the point it would be dangerous for a novice to try to use--yet you gloss right over this. Just awful.
Breathe man, you'll be okay.