I use this as an everyday carry in industrial automation. It fits my vest pocket with leads and the magnetic hanger and is very light. My bigger meters spend most of their time in the toolbox now. This has been a very reliable meter for basic troubleshooting work. Come to think of it, since owning it for about 4 years I have never changed the batteries!
Def, and those soft rubber corners screams soft head helmet, of course their all kinds like that. I like my 90 degree corners and boxey 80-90s cars, Soo maybe I'm biased, once my doctor says I can remove my helmet I'll let you know
Was going to say; "for $70 to AU$80 you can't beat an SCA (Super Cheap Auto) mini clamp meter (I've had 2 of em' for well over a decade) - but I just checked and it doesn't look like they sell that one any more... But the good news is, it looks like they've superseded it with the ToolPro clamp meter for $69AU which appears to be slightly better. So I'd recommend IT over the (liver) Fluke for the same money.
I have a few and have been quite happy with them as basic quick trouble shooting meter where absolute accuracy is not my primary concern. My best guess on the AC only mA range is they have have it for use with AC only current clamps. Which are just current transformers with a small load resistor to turn the output into a small AC voltage. I would make some sense given that these were originally intended as low cost electrician/field tech meters for the Asian market.
This replaced my 87-V for field use about 4 years ago. No it's not an 87 but it's Fluke quality and does what it does well. I went with the 107 for the current scale. I don't think I have replaced the original batteries. I think mine came with the magnetic strap. As handy as the magnet can be, I always found it swinging around. So I cut the magnet off and glued it to the back of the 107. Perfect. Nice review Dave! A tip for all you Fluke fan boys. I you use your flukes in the field you know how the soft rubber yellow holster gets real grimy. And they just don't clean up well with any soap I've tried. Try this, spray it with clothes stain remover and throw it in the washer, with other clothes. Mine is cleaner than new. Wow!
I got a 107 in my garage toolbox, the backlight option is a "Must have" for a mechanic and those little Fluke are perfectly fit for this kind of work, I keep the 20K countdown unit for the lab were they belong! Nice review again mate! 👍
I like the separate AC and DC voltage measurement modes right on the dial! Some compact meters only have one mode on the dial, and they default to AC mode, so you always have to separately select the DC mode. This can be a nuisance if you mainly happen to need the meter for DC measurements, like quick car diagnostics. Even worse if the meter has a short and non-adjustable auto-off time, and then always defaults back to AC at power on, like my current one does...
Exactly how my uni-t 210 E and D are. Good thing it has been hacked in the eevblog forum I was able to change the default modes and set the backlight and auto off timers to hours.
@@Firecul you just need an arduino to read and edit the eeprom. There's a big thread on the forum on how to connect it. The confusing part was figuring out which values to swap but I eventually got it, there was a table in the datasheet showing which addresses correspond to what functions. I also did the 6000 count mod.
@@quandiy5164 That might be the 50+ page thread I found then. I don't have an arduino actually, never needed one. A quick read though a couple of posts just made my head scramble. I'll keep it in mind but it's not as simple as I wanted lol One day I may attempt it.
I bought this thing when you first talked about it a decade or so ago Dave. Been in the toolbag ever since and is my go to in the field. Tough little nugget. Edit: As for the battery life, I think I replaced them once but I am honestly not sure.
This video is a good reminder of how useful it is to have various generators and test references. They let you probe new products to get a more reliable idea of their specs and robustness.
As a fire alarm technician I use this about every other day, and it’s perfectly accurate for the 12-24vdc market. I added a magnetic strap. Works for all the varied fire alarms /security systems / access control resistor values I see. I also have a 117 I use for automotive.
I have several Flukes, including this, the 107, 115 and 117, plus the higher end types. For me though, the 101, 107 and the 115 and 117 have the best switch feel and action of any meter I've tried, regardless of price.
I use this meter 5 days a week in a rough repair shop environment. Checking fuses, windings, bridge rectifiers, 120/240 v ac, 15 to 90 v dc and hertz. Works great, very durable.
I have a working fluke 19 that I bought from the snap-on truck for about $130 in the mid to late nineties. It has served me very well and been used heaps.
I have a Fluke 107 as a spare meter. It is a great multimeter. It is fantastic at measuring mV AC. I just wish that Fluke could measure DC mV as well. It's a very important frature in the industy I work in.
I needed a multimeter that could A: measure capacitance incase my air conditioner takes a dump. B: accurately measure low voltage DC to calibrate my LiPo battery charger and drone radio. And C: do general purpose stuff whenever I need a meter, including building an FPV drone in the future. And this checks every box! Got it on the way. I never thought I'd ever own a Fluke brand meter
The mark on the back of the meter to the right of the CE mark is a CSA mark with C and US subscripts. This means it has been tested and is listed to Canadian and US (UL) standards. It has a similar meaning as a UL listed mark, but means it was tested and listed by CSA instead. Both are reputable and test to the same standards.
Used this multimeter for a few years while working as a boat mechanic. I really like it. Packs small in a tool bag in a handy pouch (absolutely must get one with the meter). Works every time. Feels like a good quality meter. One of the leads broke after about 1.5year of daily use, but still love it.
As a hobbyist (basicly learned everything i know about EE by watching your channel for the last 8 years or so, and couple of other channels) I bought the Aneng 8008 when it was new and it's still working great and does everything i need it to do, it's all low voltage, like 12v max as my main interests are microcontrollers like esp32, arduinos etc ... However even though my Aneng can measure mains voltage, Im usually not comfortable using it to measure high voltages (and i try to not fuck around with high voltage) but now Im thinking about ordering this one for the few times I need to measure higher voltages and stuff like that .. Then i have the Aneng for it's features and keep using it as I currently do, but then i can have this one for it's protection when I need to measure high voltage knowing it wont damage my meter since I have a bit more faith in Fluke than Aneng ;) And buying a 2-400$ meter does not make alot of sens for me .. Win win
Make sure you get it from a reputable source, I'm sure the China Export squad already jumped on it to create a "FULKE" near exact copy minus the safety :)
I also bought an Aneng when Dave did his video on it, and I have found the range switch to be unreliable. After not using it awhile, a short will read as 10-20 ohms, for example. Switching it back and forth a bunch of times fixes it but it has caught me when I was using it to troubleshoot something (I use bench meters for most work). I think I would rather have a bulletproof range switch than features, since I only use it to test volts, ohms, and continuity anyway.
Curiously enough I've blown one of the cheapest analog meter on the market over my lap and... I SURVIVED. it didn't. Honestly I don't know what kind of voltages you do plan to measure that any cheapo no-name multimeter couldn't handle. Perhaps people go around poking at 100odd kVolts transmission lines with one probe to the other!?
Only issue I've ever had with my 8008 was the piece of plastic that formed the screen and sat infront of the lcd turned opaque - probably a reacrtion to UV light - but other than that it'd been fine.
There is now a UL listed Uni-T UT131A. I picked one up for less than $25 out of curiosity because of the complete feature set. I wasn't expecting it to be this good and precise for the price. It might be the best beginner electronics multimiter out there now. Uni-T has not only improved in quality but they've been certifying a lot of their newer multimeters. It's worth getting your hands on one for a review. Many people would appreciate it, especially in countries where name brand multimeters like Flukes are really hard to find.
@@JohnDoe-wb7ng No worries. If you're looking for a good cheap clampmeter, there's the Uni-T UT210E as well. This one's more talked about though, because of the 2A DC+AC range and accuracy. Perfect for electronics jobbies (though I've used it plenty for residential electrical work as well). I bought it together with the UT131A, no regrets, both amazing little meters.
My biggest problem with that meter is that it appears to only measure up to 250 volts. That's not enough for troubleshooting power supplies or for most tube based electronics.
Not having amps can be kinda nice sometimes, honestly. Used to work at a hobby electronics store and got a couple dozen meters back every week from people claiming "it blew up and smoke came out". Everytime it was because they tried to measure a car battery on amps and blew the fuse because they used the wrong port. Store policy was anything returned below $150 had to be hit with a hammer and into the dumpster. Such a waste.
Lack of a backlight is a bit of a shame. I love the AN8008 (still available by the way) as a secondary meter, I was working in a low light area the other day and its backlight is great. BM786 is my main meter of course :)
I first thought that the lack of screen light wouldn’t be an issue. I thought wrong. Climbing up under a vehicle dash and other dim lit areas, really sucks without a screen light.
Bought my father one of these 10 years ago so I could have him diag stuff over the phone with me. Has been flawless. Worth its weight in gold when needed and easy to pack and carry around.
Wow. I don't think I have ever, in my life (aside from the stockyards in Ft. Worth, TX) heard this many words spoken in 26 minutes and 44 seconds. Wow. It is also very clear this gentleman has forgotten more about multimeters than I will ever, EVER know. Truly a Jedi Master of Multimeters. I'm still amazed at how deeply immersed I was in this video!
Had mine for about 8 years. Used mainly for automotive electrics, and it's brilliant. Survives bouncing around in toolboxes, being dropped, keeps on trucking. Not great for sub-1-ohm measurements, but that's not the main goal.
Great review video, thanks 👍🏻👍🏻 I've got an Aneng 8008 which I use for low voltage, hobby electronics and it's brilliant for that, but I wouldn't ever use it for mains voltage as I wouldn't trust the protection. I have a properly certified multimeter that I use if I'm touching mains. But I'm definitely going to pick up a Fluke 101 as the small, throw in the toolkit, meter that can be used for mains. Sadly as I'm in the UK 🇬🇧 I'll have to import it from the US as Fluke don't sell it over here for some reason. Anyway, thanks again for the great review.
I don't need another meter but I kind of do because of the size and I mainly deal in DC anyway.. the size, durability and quality is hard to pass on.. looks pretty accurate and covers 99% of what I would use it for. Thanks for reviewing and the battery of tests (pun intended), appreciate your detailed content.
It might be a limited meter but I have limited use. It stays in my company van in a hard case with Brymen silicone leads. I use mine to verify wall socket power and some low resistance (down to 1R pass/fail component)measurements, which it does a great job. Not often used but always ready, getting fresh batteries every January as does all my battery powered TE.
Same here, but when I built custom lab equipment for serious research institutions and had 3 different separate meters on my bench, all fluke's, I decided to bring in my do it all multimeter to make my work easier, The head engineer told me I couldn't use it, and then I found out why we had so much fluke stuff, and other very expensive oscilloscopes, frequency counters... Because not only are they accurate, and can take a beating, but they stay stable no matter what the climate or how often you drop them. We even sent them in for recalibration and re-certification every 2 years. We also had a lot of Hewlet Packard instrumentation from before the 80's that was high quality, some even programmable and could interface with each other and computers already in the late 60's! I have no clue why they dropped the entire line and went all in on crappy computers, but it turned out to be a bad move, and they got bought n' sold, sliced n' diced ever since, and into oblivion!
The problem I often encounter with really long battery life devices is that the batteries start leaking well before it is used up. I tend to use the carbon zinc cells in these circumstances, they less likely leak for me.
Consider using low self discharge Nickle-Metal Hydride cells-they should work ok in this meter, and will not leak. On some other devices, the lower voltage can be a problem though.
@@m.k.8158 I do if the device accepts the lower voltage. On my uni-t, the low voltage means it doesn't use up the battery all that much. I ended up modifying it with a cmos 3.3V LDO and 10440 cell in the battery compartment. Lasts ages and pretty low self discharge too. Low battery indicator lights up at 2.5V perfect for the li-ion
I’ve had one of these for a couple years now and can confirm it’s skookum as frig. After my 35 year old radio shack meter gave up the ghost, I went through a couple cheap Chinese meters before settling on this as my handy quick check meter.
I got one of these back in 2016 for 33 euro on Aliexpress. I have a Fluke 83 iii, 28 ii, 29mk1, 10 and a few others yet this is the one that sees most use. Probably the best buy ever and has held up really well. Might get a second one..
Dave I noticed the laggy continuity test can be improved on the Aneng with fresh batteries. Possibly the same for the Fluke. Delay gets worse as the batteries drain. The capacitance test is also slower
17:28 , very nice attention to detail, the LCD is squeezed against the board by 3 screw that are part of the whole assembly. No dodgy zebra strip that loose contact with such a solution. That on such things that you see the design quality.
I have the original Chinese 17B, which is supposed to be only sold in China. It was like 70€ some years ago and is a really great multimeter, built like a brick and with all the nice safety details for the original (as far as I can tell).
I’ve had one of these in my tool back for years for troubleshooting heating system wiring and components it’s been decent I got nice silicon leads for it the ones that come with it are very stiff
I have a 107 for about 8 years. I bought in a sale for almost half mrsp. It is very good, ii use it almost every day. The magnetic strap lose It rubber but still in one piece. For bench use it is not the best, but it show his true value in the field, as it size is an huge advantage. Highly recommended
That "hook attachment point" looks perfect for a carrying strap that can hang from a wrist, wooden ladder or any other convenient place . Could even be a lanyard with snapoff coupling to avoid strangulation .
For the cheapo multimeters my "min requirement" is auto-off / battery safer. Dont hate anything more then getting a multimeter for 8 bucks, the bettery replacement costing 5 bucks, and it can happen every week. (i tend to use voltcraft / local cheap brand for CONRAD for students and small stuff) edit: also handy to have some simple ones to just have multiple voltages shown at the same time, without having to hoist around a chunky benchmultimeter, which needs a table, costs a lot and isnt really needed most of the times.
This has been my multimeter for the past 9 years. It's great. My tip to anyone with this meter is change your batteries every 2 years out of habit. Mine leaked everywhere and corroded my contacts. My screen has a dim area, so it's on borrowed time. Completely my fault though. It was great watching you put it through all that stress testing and pulling it apart - I have even more respect for my meter now.
Hi, suggest you use lithium non rechargeable batteries is all test kit, they are good for 8years plus without leaking so they will run out well before they leak, I've ran these in all my test kit for years after suffering from a few leaks in some of my expensive kit.
I got one of these as a gift at work, keep it in the trunk of my car used it a few dozen times, never had to replace the batteries ... i cant recommend it to anyone unless you work somewhere that requires you use a fluke, but i cant complain about it i do however keep the AN8008 as a quick pocketable meter to carry around the office and warehouse (if i dont want to take my still daily workhorse 121GW) with some custom rewired short probes and i love it, even the square wave generator in it has come in handy for testing stepper drivers and speakers
Does make one wonder if they didn't include current measurement option because they've simply ran out of space to put in protection for that as well...
Well that and that a proper DMM fuse costs waaay too much for a $40 product. I’d be surprised if this meter cost $20 to make. A real DMM fuse, even at the massive volumes Fluke buys (which is why they can sell them in a 5-pack for about $7 each, while the same fuses, without the detour via Fluke, sell for $11-20), would add several dollars to the BOM cost.
Hello sir, could you please review LCR meters again? It's been a long time since you reviewed. I am thinking about getting the DE-5000, for a small hobbyist lab.
Apparently, the Fluke warranty does not apply to these meters, unless you buy them directly from Fluke (and they don't sell the 101....only the 107 for $150).
Right angle leads wrap around the meter bettter than straight leads... Those leads look cheap... but add a velcro wire wrap strap to the leads... and once the leads are wrapped around the metere... and the velcro strap is also wrapped around both... you have a meter with organized leads... ready at all times...
I pulled the 101 out of my bag, and put in a UT211B. I've got the big boy Flukes available of course, but for the size, I prefer the UniT for daily carry.
How do you rate the Uni-t for build quality? I'm torn between a Zotek ZT303 for accuracy at about $40 or a Unit-t UT61B+ which is less accurate and costs about $65 but I think might possibly be better built, I'm talking reliability of the switch and input jacks mostly. The UNI-T does seem like a good choice for something well made but at a reasonable price.
with this battery test, you can put one 3.7V lithium battery instead of two batteries I have a Fluke 107, as well as many other Flukes, excellent multimeters and I recommend it to everyone for purchase
This is the most outstanding review I've seen on the Fluke 101. I bought this same meter a few weeks ago and am very pleased and impressed with its build quality and capabilities as demonstrated in this video. It's quite a bargain for $43.
I have this DMM and use it for DIY at home while have a better 179 for work. What I don't like on the 101 is the the beeper for continuity test is way too soft. I have to bring the device very close to confirm a beep.
My Uni-t UT10A takes a while to mesure higher capacity capacitors too, not sure why that is, but it is quite annoying when messuring multiple capacitors having to wait for eatch one to display.
I have the 106, the main issue to me is no stand/support, especially with the supplied rubbish PVC leads, it just rolls around. I got sillycone ones, way better, but still no real way to support it on a job You can get a velcro stand, but that costs almost as much as the meter itself. Still trying to think of a retro fit something, love any suggestions...
I absolutely love my Fluke 117. This looks like a very nice affordable option from Fluke - only disappointment for me is the continuity test not fast enough... Thanks for the review!
I have one as a second meter on the bench. Love it !! …. Although It doesn’t have the single blip in diode test mode, which would be a really useful addition in software.
I have a pair of Fluke 8060a as well, and they are really cool old vintage meters. There is something satisfying about using them, I can't quite describe it. The screen contrast is also really good.
Here in Germany it costs 88€ on Amazon, it’s double the price you mentioned. Maybe it’s the case to look for something more expensive instead of that tiny thing ?
I got one of these (and recently misplaced it). It's fine but almost too small. No stand and it can slip all over and fall if you don't keep an eye on it.
First thing i would do with this meter is ad some probe holders with SUGRU. Good to know they took their CAT rating seriously, with chinesium meters you never know.
At the price point mentioned, it looks like they may be going after the "hardware store" market. The big guy there is Klein tools (at least at Home Depot). Of course to do that they might need a pouch, and possibly an AC clamp-on ammeter accessory. Me? I've got a (over quarter century) old Radio Shack thing that for what I do (non-precision work!) is adequate for things.
I bought a brand new 87V for my bench at home and got tired of how greasy it became after needing to use it to work on cars. My solution to that problem was to buy a used/filthy 87V with a slightly damaged case from eBay to work in the garage. Love my 87Vs!
I keep a Fluke 101 in my motorcycle luggage in case of emergencies. It's got everything I need for automotive debugging, and I know because it's a Fluke it'll work when I need it. For bench use? The lack of a current range, and weird AC-only mV range makes it a no-go. I have a couple AN8008s for my spare "I need an extra meter" tiny meters, on top of my daily use BK Precision and Brymen (BM235, of course) meters.
I bought one 101 (35€) a few years ago and I used several times for all proposes and always works flawness with precision and no issues. Lather I sell it and bought a 175.
I've been looking for a pocket meter for a while but as an industrial electrician really wants something I can trust. I might have to try this out even though it doesn't have the cool form factor of the other options!
I bought this as it was the cheapest Fluke available, and I didn't want to buy a $5 chinese meter. It's a workhorse in a troubleshooter's toolbox. The most frequently used feature by me is the beeper continuity tester option. I don't like to throw an expensive multimeter among the tools, and it's more than enough for daily measurements.
The reason you buy this over a really budget meter is that you can trust it. Which is the exact reason you always buy a fluke or similarly nice meter. The last thing you want while troubleshooting is to question your equipment.
I have quite a few different meters and the 101 is one of my favorites. It fits in the breast pocket of your shirt or jacket and is great for working at heights or odd areas. Anyone who doesn't like it has never done industrial work.
Why flick the probes to check continuity response? Granted, the Fluke probes can have issues making a good contact but mine are 24 years old and the PVC is perfect and probes make contact. I always make sure to get good contact and an intermittent beep is not good enough. I suppose it is a way to compare meters and probes but if checking continuity, I don't think too much sensitivity is a good thing. I seldom use continuity as I want to know how good a connection is with a resistance value to the limits of the meter, of course. I put little value on the continuity feature.
I use this as an everyday carry in industrial automation. It fits my vest pocket with leads and the magnetic hanger and is very light. My bigger meters spend most of their time in the toolbox now. This has been a very reliable meter for basic troubleshooting work. Come to think of it, since owning it for about 4 years I have never changed the batteries!
Same. I carry it way more often than my 87 or 233. It's so nice for working in high areas where you just want to throw tools in your pocket and go.
The colour scheme of that box has serious "Multimeters for Dummies" vibes
Def, and those soft rubber corners screams soft head helmet, of course their all kinds like that. I like my 90 degree corners and boxey 80-90s cars, Soo maybe I'm biased, once my doctor says I can remove my helmet I'll let you know
Well it's the Multimeter 101, basically made for learning the basics.
Was going to say; "for $70 to AU$80 you can't beat an SCA (Super Cheap Auto) mini clamp meter (I've had 2 of em' for well over a decade) - but I just checked and it doesn't look like they sell that one any more...
But the good news is, it looks like they've superseded it with the ToolPro clamp meter for $69AU which appears to be slightly better. So I'd recommend IT over the (liver) Fluke for the same money.
It really does doesn’t it.
True!
I have a few and have been quite happy with them as basic quick trouble shooting meter where absolute accuracy is not my primary concern. My best guess on the AC only mA range is they have have it for use with AC only current clamps. Which are just current transformers with a small load resistor to turn the output into a small AC voltage. I would make some sense given that these were originally intended as low cost electrician/field tech meters for the Asian market.
This replaced my 87-V for field use about 4 years ago. No it's not an 87 but it's Fluke quality and does what it does well. I went with the 107 for the current scale. I don't think I have replaced the original batteries. I think mine came with the magnetic strap. As handy as the magnet can be, I always found it swinging around. So I cut the magnet off and glued it to the back of the 107. Perfect. Nice review Dave!
A tip for all you Fluke fan boys.
I you use your flukes in the field you know how the soft rubber yellow holster gets real grimy. And they just don't clean up well with any soap I've tried.
Try this, spray it with clothes stain remover and throw it in the washer, with other clothes. Mine is cleaner than new. Wow!
thanks
I got a 107 in my garage toolbox, the backlight option is a "Must have" for a mechanic and those little Fluke are perfectly fit for this kind of work, I keep the 20K countdown unit for the lab were they belong! Nice review again mate! 👍
Bought this for my sons first tool kit. Great multimeter for learning basic home repairs.
I like the separate AC and DC voltage measurement modes right on the dial!
Some compact meters only have one mode on the dial, and they default to AC mode, so you always have to separately select the DC mode. This can be a nuisance if you mainly happen to need the meter for DC measurements, like quick car diagnostics.
Even worse if the meter has a short and non-adjustable auto-off time, and then always defaults back to AC at power on, like my current one does...
The Fluke 80 series famously switched from default DC to default AC mode with the model III and it pissed a lot of people off.
Exactly how my uni-t 210 E and D are. Good thing it has been hacked in the eevblog forum I was able to change the default modes and set the backlight and auto off timers to hours.
@@quandiy5164 my 210E has been bugging me doing that, how hard is making the change?
@@Firecul you just need an arduino to read and edit the eeprom. There's a big thread on the forum on how to connect it. The confusing part was figuring out which values to swap but I eventually got it, there was a table in the datasheet showing which addresses correspond to what functions. I also did the 6000 count mod.
@@quandiy5164 That might be the 50+ page thread I found then.
I don't have an arduino actually, never needed one. A quick read though a couple of posts just made my head scramble. I'll keep it in mind but it's not as simple as I wanted lol
One day I may attempt it.
John Smith did high voltage transient test with F101 and it survived with flying colours to thousands of volts on every mode.
I bought this thing when you first talked about it a decade or so ago Dave. Been in the toolbag ever since and is my go to in the field. Tough little nugget.
Edit: As for the battery life, I think I replaced them once but I am honestly not sure.
That’s a cat buddy , don’t u oh china then it’s fake inside and out
This video is a good reminder of how useful it is to have various generators and test references. They let you probe new products to get a more reliable idea of their specs and robustness.
This is one of the best reviews I've seen.
Subscribed.
As a fire alarm technician I use this about every other day, and it’s perfectly accurate for the 12-24vdc market. I added a magnetic strap. Works for all the varied fire alarms /security systems / access control resistor values I see. I also have a 117 I use for automotive.
I have several Flukes, including this, the 107, 115 and 117, plus the higher end types. For me though, the 101, 107 and the 115 and 117 have the best switch feel and action of any meter I've tried, regardless of price.
Yeah I have a Fluke 117. I don't regret buying it even though it's mega overkill lol
I use this meter 5 days a week in a rough repair shop environment. Checking fuses, windings, bridge rectifiers, 120/240 v ac, 15 to 90 v dc and hertz. Works great, very durable.
I have a working fluke 19 that I bought from the snap-on truck for about $130 in the mid to late nineties. It has served me very well and been used heaps.
I have a Fluke 107 as a spare meter. It is a great multimeter. It is fantastic at measuring mV AC. I just wish that Fluke could measure DC mV as well. It's a very important frature in the industy I work in.
I needed a multimeter that could A: measure capacitance incase my air conditioner takes a dump. B: accurately measure low voltage DC to calibrate my LiPo battery charger and drone radio. And C: do general purpose stuff whenever I need a meter, including building an FPV drone in the future. And this checks every box! Got it on the way. I never thought I'd ever own a Fluke brand meter
The mark on the back of the meter to the right of the CE mark is a CSA mark with C and US subscripts. This means it has been tested and is listed to Canadian and US (UL) standards. It has a similar meaning as a UL listed mark, but means it was tested and listed by CSA instead. Both are reputable and test to the same standards.
How about CCP certification standard. The organization is selected to certified EV for American Market for "Industrial Coloney" of China.
You might want to read a few Canadian websites about the CSA and it's "standards testing". Raises a lot of questions about them.
Used this multimeter for a few years while working as a boat mechanic. I really like it. Packs small in a tool bag in a handy pouch (absolutely must get one with the meter). Works every time. Feels like a good quality meter.
One of the leads broke after about 1.5year of daily use, but still love it.
How submersible/moisture proof is it?
As a hobbyist (basicly learned everything i know about EE by watching your channel for the last 8 years or so, and couple of other channels) I bought the Aneng 8008 when it was new and it's still working great and does everything i need it to do, it's all low voltage, like 12v max as my main interests are microcontrollers like esp32, arduinos etc ... However even though my Aneng can measure mains voltage, Im usually not comfortable using it to measure high voltages (and i try to not fuck around with high voltage) but now Im thinking about ordering this one for the few times I need to measure higher voltages and stuff like that .. Then i have the Aneng for it's features and keep using it as I currently do, but then i can have this one for it's protection when I need to measure high voltage knowing it wont damage my meter since I have a bit more faith in Fluke than Aneng ;) And buying a 2-400$ meter does not make alot of sens for me .. Win win
Make sure you get it from a reputable source, I'm sure the China Export squad already jumped on it to create a "FULKE" near exact copy minus the safety :)
I also bought an Aneng when Dave did his video on it, and I have found the range switch to be unreliable. After not using it awhile, a short will read as 10-20 ohms, for example. Switching it back and forth a bunch of times fixes it but it has caught me when I was using it to troubleshoot something (I use bench meters for most work). I think I would rather have a bulletproof range switch than features, since I only use it to test volts, ohms, and continuity anyway.
Curiously enough I've blown one of the cheapest analog meter on the market over my lap and... I SURVIVED. it didn't.
Honestly I don't know what kind of voltages you do plan to measure that any cheapo no-name multimeter couldn't handle. Perhaps people go around poking at 100odd kVolts transmission lines with one probe to the other!?
Only issue I've ever had with my 8008 was the piece of plastic that formed the screen and sat infront of the lcd turned opaque - probably a reacrtion to UV light - but other than that it'd been fine.
Mine works 100% , but the only "issue" i've had was that i broke the stand on the back of it , but kinda does not matter since it was pretty useless
There is now a UL listed Uni-T UT131A. I picked one up for less than $25 out of curiosity because of the complete feature set. I wasn't expecting it to be this good and precise for the price. It might be the best beginner electronics multimiter out there now. Uni-T has not only improved in quality but they've been certifying a lot of their newer multimeters. It's worth getting your hands on one for a review. Many people would appreciate it, especially in countries where name brand multimeters like Flukes are really hard to find.
Thanks for the tip. They are now for 15 Eur on Reichelt. I wish I had known this few days ago when I order stuff from there.
@@JohnDoe-wb7ng No worries. If you're looking for a good cheap clampmeter, there's the Uni-T UT210E as well. This one's more talked about though, because of the 2A DC+AC range and accuracy. Perfect for electronics jobbies (though I've used it plenty for residential electrical work as well). I bought it together with the UT131A, no regrets, both amazing little meters.
@@silviustro1 This one I already have (UT210E). I agree that it is a trusty little friend!
My biggest problem with that meter is that it appears to only measure up to 250 volts. That's not enough for troubleshooting power supplies or for most tube based electronics.
Not having amps can be kinda nice sometimes, honestly. Used to work at a hobby electronics store and got a couple dozen meters back every week from people claiming "it blew up and smoke came out". Everytime it was because they tried to measure a car battery on amps and blew the fuse because they used the wrong port. Store policy was anything returned below $150 had to be hit with a hammer and into the dumpster. Such a waste.
Lack of a backlight is a bit of a shame. I love the AN8008 (still available by the way) as a secondary meter, I was working in a low light area the other day and its backlight is great. BM786 is my main meter of course :)
To get the backlight you have to pay up for the Fluke 107 for ~$100
@@julesdim1758 Yes - just watched a review on that one :)
My AN8008 lasted a month in my glovebox.
Went to grab it and found that the clear screen had broken down with the heat..
I first thought that the lack of screen light wouldn’t be an issue.
I thought wrong. Climbing up under a vehicle dash and other dim lit areas, really sucks without a screen light.
Bought my father one of these 10 years ago so I could have him diag stuff over the phone with me. Has been flawless. Worth its weight in gold when needed and easy to pack and carry around.
Wow. I don't think I have ever, in my life (aside from the stockyards in Ft. Worth, TX) heard this many words spoken in 26 minutes and 44 seconds. Wow. It is also very clear this gentleman has forgotten more about multimeters than I will ever, EVER know. Truly a Jedi Master of Multimeters. I'm still amazed at how deeply immersed I was in this video!
Beauty. Think I might pick one of these up to keep in the pocket for daily hvac maintenance in commercial stuff.
Had mine for about 8 years. Used mainly for automotive electrics, and it's brilliant. Survives bouncing around in toolboxes, being dropped, keeps on trucking. Not great for sub-1-ohm measurements, but that's not the main goal.
Great review video, thanks 👍🏻👍🏻
I've got an Aneng 8008 which I use for low voltage, hobby electronics and it's brilliant for that, but I wouldn't ever use it for mains voltage as I wouldn't trust the protection. I have a properly certified multimeter that I use if I'm touching mains. But I'm definitely going to pick up a Fluke 101 as the small, throw in the toolkit, meter that can be used for mains. Sadly as I'm in the UK 🇬🇧 I'll have to import it from the US as Fluke don't sell it over here for some reason. Anyway, thanks again for the great review.
I don't need another meter but I kind of do because of the size and I mainly deal in DC anyway.. the size, durability and quality is hard to pass on.. looks pretty accurate and covers 99% of what I would use it for. Thanks for reviewing and the battery of tests (pun intended), appreciate your detailed content.
Hey Dave,
Have you ever done a video on using some of these off the shelf multimeter components to design a multimeter from scratch?
It might be a limited meter but I have limited use. It stays in my company van in a hard case with Brymen silicone leads. I use mine to verify wall socket power and some low resistance (down to 1R pass/fail component)measurements, which it does a great job. Not often used but always ready, getting fresh batteries every January as does all my battery powered TE.
Same here, but when I built custom lab equipment for serious research institutions and had 3 different separate meters on my bench, all fluke's, I decided to bring in my do it all multimeter to make my work easier, The head engineer told me I couldn't use it, and then I found out why we had so much fluke stuff, and other very expensive oscilloscopes, frequency counters... Because not only are they accurate, and can take a beating, but they stay stable no matter what the climate or how often you drop them. We even sent them in for recalibration and re-certification every 2 years.
We also had a lot of Hewlet Packard instrumentation from before the 80's that was high quality, some even programmable and could interface with each other and computers already in the late 60's! I have no clue why they dropped the entire line and went all in on crappy computers, but it turned out to be a bad move, and they got bought n' sold, sliced n' diced ever since, and into oblivion!
After reviewing a ton of multimeters, you look as natural as the first day. Great work Dave!
The problem I often encounter with really long battery life devices is that the batteries start leaking well before it is used up. I tend to use the carbon zinc cells in these circumstances, they less likely leak for me.
Consider using low self discharge Nickle-Metal Hydride cells-they should work ok in this meter, and will not leak.
On some other devices, the lower voltage can be a problem though.
@@m.k.8158 I do if the device accepts the lower voltage. On my uni-t, the low voltage means it doesn't use up the battery all that much. I ended up modifying it with a cmos 3.3V LDO and 10440 cell in the battery compartment. Lasts ages and pretty low self discharge too. Low battery indicator lights up at 2.5V perfect for the li-ion
I’ve had one of these for a couple years now and can confirm it’s skookum as frig. After my 35 year old radio shack meter gave up the ghost, I went through a couple cheap Chinese meters before settling on this as my handy quick check meter.
My radio shack went right rim the bin and I discovered Fluke.
I got one of these back in 2016 for 33 euro on Aliexpress. I have a Fluke 83 iii, 28 ii, 29mk1, 10 and a few others yet this is the one that sees most use. Probably the best buy ever and has held up really well. Might get a second one..
15:04 I kinda like how it smiles back at you when you take the cover off :)
It's surprisingly beautiful Lol .
I have fluke 107.
I want another fluke, I think I'll buy fluke 101.
Dave I noticed the laggy continuity test can be improved on the Aneng with fresh batteries. Possibly the same for the Fluke. Delay gets worse as the batteries drain. The capacitance test is also slower
17:28 , very nice attention to detail, the LCD is squeezed against the board by 3 screw that are part of the whole assembly. No dodgy zebra strip that loose contact with such a solution.
That on such things that you see the design quality.
I have the original Chinese 17B, which is supposed to be only sold in China. It was like 70€ some years ago and is a really great multimeter, built like a brick and with all the nice safety details for the original (as far as I can tell).
I’ve had one of these in my tool back for years for troubleshooting heating system wiring and components it’s been decent I got nice silicon leads for it the ones that come with it are very stiff
I have a 107 for about 8 years. I bought in a sale for almost half mrsp. It is very good, ii use it almost every day. The magnetic strap lose It rubber but still in one piece. For bench use it is not the best, but it show his true value in the field, as it size is an huge advantage. Highly recommended
That "hook attachment point" looks perfect for a carrying strap that can hang from a wrist, wooden ladder or any other convenient place . Could even be a lanyard with snapoff coupling to avoid strangulation .
I've had a 115 (add a backlight and 10a capacity) for about 20 years now. It's never failed when sent in for calibration.
For the cheapo multimeters my "min requirement" is auto-off / battery safer.
Dont hate anything more then getting a multimeter for 8 bucks,
the bettery replacement costing 5 bucks,
and it can happen every week.
(i tend to use voltcraft / local cheap brand for CONRAD for students and small stuff)
edit: also handy to have some simple ones to just have multiple voltages shown at the same time,
without having to hoist around a chunky benchmultimeter, which needs a table, costs a lot and isnt really needed most of the times.
This has been my multimeter for the past 9 years. It's great. My tip to anyone with this meter is change your batteries every 2 years out of habit. Mine leaked everywhere and corroded my contacts. My screen has a dim area, so it's on borrowed time. Completely my fault though. It was great watching you put it through all that stress testing and pulling it apart - I have even more respect for my meter now.
Hi, suggest you use lithium non rechargeable batteries is all test kit, they are good for 8years plus without leaking so they will run out well before they leak, I've ran these in all my test kit for years after suffering from a few leaks in some of my expensive kit.
@@seanpduffyeng thanks, I think I will do that
I got one of these as a gift at work, keep it in the trunk of my car
used it a few dozen times, never had to replace the batteries ... i cant recommend it to anyone unless you work somewhere that requires you use a fluke, but i cant complain about it
i do however keep the AN8008 as a quick pocketable meter to carry around the office and warehouse (if i dont want to take my still daily workhorse 121GW) with some custom rewired short probes and i love it, even the square wave generator in it has come in handy for testing stepper drivers and speakers
Does make one wonder if they didn't include current measurement option because they've simply ran out of space to put in protection for that as well...
Well that and that a proper DMM fuse costs waaay too much for a $40 product. I’d be surprised if this meter cost $20 to make. A real DMM fuse, even at the massive volumes Fluke buys (which is why they can sell them in a 5-pack for about $7 each, while the same fuses, without the detour via Fluke, sell for $11-20), would add several dollars to the BOM cost.
I've got one of these in my toolkit for about 8 years or so now, only gripe is the battery cover went brittle and broke little bits off the corners
I use that ANENG version been very happy with it.
Hello sir, could you please review LCR meters again? It's been a long time since you reviewed. I am thinking about getting the DE-5000, for a small hobbyist lab.
Apparently, the Fluke warranty does not apply to these meters, unless you buy them directly from Fluke (and they don't sell the 101....only the 107 for $150).
Quality FR4 boards have quite the distinguishable shine to them indeed.
Right angle leads wrap around the meter bettter than straight leads...
Those leads look cheap... but add a velcro wire wrap strap to the leads... and once the leads are wrapped around the metere... and the velcro strap is also wrapped around both... you have a meter with organized leads... ready at all times...
I pulled the 101 out of my bag, and put in a UT211B. I've got the big boy Flukes available of course, but for the size, I prefer the UniT for daily carry.
How do you rate the Uni-t for build quality? I'm torn between a Zotek ZT303 for accuracy at about $40 or a Unit-t UT61B+ which is less accurate and costs about $65 but I think might possibly be better built, I'm talking reliability of the switch and input jacks mostly. The UNI-T does seem like a good choice for something well made but at a reasonable price.
@@dunk8157 I haven't had any issues with the jacks or the range switch, but at this price point, for any professional, just buy a backup or two.
with this battery test, you can put one 3.7V lithium battery instead of two batteries
I have a Fluke 107, as well as many other Flukes, excellent multimeters and I recommend it to everyone for purchase
For someone looking at this for their first keep at home for random stuff meter would you stick with the leads it comes with or get different ones?
This is the most outstanding review I've seen on the Fluke 101. I bought this same meter a few weeks ago and am very pleased and impressed with its build quality and capabilities as demonstrated in this video. It's quite a bargain for $43.
What is fluke best budget multimeter for laptop / phone repair ?
I have this DMM and use it for DIY at home while have a better 179 for work. What I don't like on the 101 is the the beeper for continuity test is way too soft. I have to bring the device very close to confirm a beep.
Maybe it's time to visit a hearing doctor.
My Uni-t UT10A takes a while to mesure higher capacity capacitors too, not sure why that is, but it is quite annoying when messuring multiple capacitors having to wait for eatch one to display.
Since it apparently works at up to 4.2V without issues, I'd really like to see a LiIon cell in the next revision of that meter..
Why bother? According to Dave’s power consumption readings you could use it 40hrs a week for five months before the alkaline cells die
@@Turbochargedtwelve yeah, the batteries last forever on this meter. There is really no point.
I have the 106, the main issue to me is no stand/support, especially with the supplied rubbish PVC leads, it just rolls around. I got sillycone ones, way better, but still no real way to support it on a job You can get a velcro stand, but that costs almost as much as the meter itself. Still trying to think of a retro fit something, love any suggestions...
I absolutely love my Fluke 117. This looks like a very nice affordable option from Fluke - only disappointment for me is the continuity test not fast enough... Thanks for the review!
I have one as a second meter on the bench. Love it !! …. Although It doesn’t have the single blip in diode test mode, which would be a really useful addition in software.
After seeing the victorinox knife and PB screwdriver, I'm going to trust you on this fluke review. Greetings from Switzerland 🇨🇭
I am still using my fathers hand-me down Fluke 8060, the old gray side buttons model. still works great
I have a pair of Fluke 8060a as well, and they are really cool old vintage meters. There is something satisfying about using them, I can't quite describe it. The screen contrast is also really good.
Here in Germany it costs 88€ on Amazon, it’s double the price you mentioned. Maybe it’s the case to look for something more expensive instead of that tiny thing ?
I agree its a stupid price for such a basic made in China meter. Buy a Zotek / Uni-t or Aneng and save the money.
on the fluke 101 the AC mili volt range is so it can be used with the fluke i400 current clamp
i bought this a couple of years ago and use it 99% of the time. excellent meter.
Fluke 17/19 is made by Uni-t back in 20th/21st century. I bought a 19 in 2000, it is very impressive. Still works today.
Where do you get fuses for the AN9002? I keep blowing the 600mA fuse while measuring the current of torches.
I got one of these (and recently misplaced it). It's fine but almost too small. No stand and it can slip all over and fall if you don't keep an eye on it.
Nice: SMD power resistor R32 installed over a hole in PCB for better cooling.
I like how the case is so tough it is magic smoke proof - what a champion.
Can this read Capacitors
First thing i would do with this meter is ad some probe holders with SUGRU. Good to know they took their CAT rating seriously, with chinesium meters you never know.
At the price point mentioned, it looks like they may be going after the "hardware store" market. The big guy there is Klein tools (at least at Home Depot). Of course to do that they might need a pouch, and possibly an AC clamp-on ammeter accessory. Me? I've got a (over quarter century) old Radio Shack thing that for what I do (non-precision work!) is adequate for things.
i like the choice of languages on the box. they know their target market
It has an irritating beep before it turns off - otherwise very handy, I dangle it around my neck when climbing up and into roofs
I have one in my shop. No regrets. Now my 87V stays cleaner!
I bought a brand new 87V for my bench at home and got tired of how greasy it became after needing to use it to work on cars. My solution to that problem was to buy a used/filthy 87V with a slightly damaged case from eBay to work in the garage. Love my 87Vs!
Might be a worthwhile investment for my work tool kit if my old cheapie ever breaks. I never use a current range at work so it's a good fit. 👍
What is reason to by this Fluke instead cheaper chinese? For label only?
ua-cam.com/video/ay9wFQAW19Y/v-deo.html
Awesome video, you sold me on this cheap little meter for a sold backup/home tool box!
I keep a Fluke 101 in my motorcycle luggage in case of emergencies. It's got everything I need for automotive debugging, and I know because it's a Fluke it'll work when I need it.
For bench use? The lack of a current range, and weird AC-only mV range makes it a no-go. I have a couple AN8008s for my spare "I need an extra meter" tiny meters, on top of my daily use BK Precision and Brymen (BM235, of course) meters.
I bought one 101 (35€) a few years ago and I used several times for all proposes and always works flawness with precision and no issues. Lather I sell it and bought a 175.
I reviewed the 117 a year or so ago, put it through its paces on my calibrators, it performed well as expected.
Can someone explain to me why the diode resolution on most flukes is 2v? Doesn’t this make testing leds difficult?
@17:42 after two years mine died. Popped in open and cleaned up those battery pads. Good as new.
I've been looking for a pocket meter for a while but as an industrial electrician really wants something I can trust. I might have to try this out even though it doesn't have the cool form factor of the other options!
Covid inactivity/battery leak killed my Fluke 77. My main ride is now an affordable UNI-T UT210D. Current is measured via a clamp both AC and DC.
I have the 107 and this was a great review and thanks for doing this video can be a cheap price but not junk.. worth owning
Challenge accepted. I have a working Fluke 19. Has worked flawlessly since I bought it new.
Seems okay, but not a fan of the angled jack on the probes when the socket is on the bottom.
I bought this as it was the cheapest Fluke available, and I didn't want to buy a $5 chinese meter. It's a workhorse in a troubleshooter's toolbox. The most frequently used feature by me is the beeper continuity tester option. I don't like to throw an expensive multimeter among the tools, and it's more than enough for daily measurements.
The reason you buy this over a really budget meter is that you can trust it. Which is the exact reason you always buy a fluke or similarly nice meter. The last thing you want while troubleshooting is to question your equipment.
Good review mate.
I have quite a few different meters and the 101 is one of my favorites. It fits in the breast pocket of your shirt or jacket and is great for working at heights or odd areas. Anyone who doesn't like it has never done industrial work.
Why flick the probes to check continuity response? Granted, the Fluke probes can have issues making a good contact but mine are 24 years old and the PVC is perfect and probes make contact. I always make sure to get good contact and an intermittent beep is not good enough. I suppose it is a way to compare meters and probes but if checking continuity, I don't think too much sensitivity is a good thing. I seldom use continuity as I want to know how good a connection is with a resistance value to the limits of the meter, of course. I put little value on the continuity feature.
First time seeing you not taking it apart before turning it on