Don't forget you can give further texture by layering your varnishes. Dull base coat with selective gloss highlights. Also you use a crumpled up cloth or sponge to remove or add varnish. Many little tips can be taken from DYI & Craft shows.
-I normally use 2 varnishes for my minis, stormshield(matte) and ardcoat(gloss). I first use a light coat of gloss over the entire mini, to seal in the paintjob and decals. and then I go over most of the mini with matte where I don't want it to shine as much. -I want to recommend varnishing the base rims with at least one coat before handling the rest of the mini. You can see, over the length of the video, how it's peeling off the blue, revealing the black base layer, towards the end. -You can paint over varnish, it will add more thickness to your paint layers, but it helps if you use effect paints, so it wont damage the paint under the varnish. -I also Mix gloss and matte if I want variations, and a bit of water since the citadel varnishes are water based.
Good advice for any varnish, unless it's a rattle can. Add some to a palette, and mix it with a equal amount of water. Then apply it. This way you avoid streaks, however you might need to add about 2-3 of these thinner coats👍💪
I use Matt varnish on all my models. However, I dont use it to add protection, but to remove sheen from paints and also make everything look a bit more uniform. As you noticed, transfers look a lot better after varnishing, but wet blended areas will also look better. You can use Lahmian Medium for this as well, but who would use that to de-shine an entire model... Also, keep in mind that different brands of varnishes produce different results. Personally i use Humbrol's matt varnish which comes in a rattle can. The only downside of this stuff though is that it can make metalics look like trash. But as i usually paint NMM, that doesn't really affect me. I've not used the Vallejo varnish before but it looks similar to the Winsor&Newton one. Try shaking it up a lot and then try again on a pouldron to see if you get more of a matt finish as i dont think it's meant to be that shiny.
As a note, no need to add it more heavily, the shine result wont change. To get a different finish you need different varnish, such as satin or gloss. Try not to paint it too thick as it takes alot longer to dry.
I use matt, satin and gloss varnish. Matt for face and head, satin for armour and leather, gloss for certain parts for highlight and gems. I must add, I use an airbrush for even coating. I paint custodes so lots of gold metal . Addendum: I forgot. I stopped varnishing armour after changing gold paint. I will also stop varnishing heads after learning a new head paint technique
You can paint over varnish. In fact it's a good idea when using washes (especially oil). Also never had a separate brush for varnish, just any old one will do. As long as you clean it, it will be fine.
I use vallejo's airbrush matte varnsih and I get much more matte results from it, to the extent that I actually swapped to satin because it was too matte for my use case, so I think this could be an airbrush/regular brush distinction.
From what I’ve understood the matte-ness differs *a lot* from brand to brand, I’ve seen several videos about the different … mattenessessess ? A quick YT-search for miniature varnish should hopefully show some results with some recommendations :)
AK Ultra Matte through an airbrush. If you don't have an airbrush, you can get a cheap all in one setup for around $40 US. The AK UltraMatte will absolutely knock down any shine. Don't use it on metallics. Good luck, and thanks for taking me with you on your hobby adventures!
who told you to dropper it right on? lol, good grief, they were trolling you. you just treat it like paint, use a brush or airbrush. With airbrush you really need to thin it a lot, but thats it. Gloss over a mini never looks good - if you are really into the protection aspect, do it gloss (gloss is far "harder") then do matt over it. But, to be quite honest, varnish isn't realy a thing for plastic minis, its more a hold over from the metal days, where paint chipped off easily. It's other main use these days is as a sealant before doing oil wash / oil work layers as it stops the oil from interacting with the acrylic and ups the capillary action of the oil. But even then, most will do this order: paint - gloss varnish - oil work - finishing - matt varnish final, to remove the shine.
I like to matt varnish faces to look more skin colour. I have varnished some armour but I stopped that, no need to do it as I like the new paint I use. I agree about protection, if you play games with the models it helps, but I don't play, I just paint so I've decided to only varnish for effect now, such as gloss for gems
I’m at the start of the video, I’m going to tell you i do it because for some reason my skin eats paint. But i also thin it and run it through my air brush
I strongly recommend getting spray cans for varnishing. Gloss overcoat, Matte for all non-metallic surfaces, and satin for metallic surfaces.
He had a spray can he showed us in 1 video but he was a little nervous to use it then.
Don't forget you can give further texture by layering your varnishes. Dull base coat with selective gloss highlights. Also you use a crumpled up cloth or sponge to remove or add varnish.
Many little tips can be taken from DYI & Craft shows.
-I normally use 2 varnishes for my minis, stormshield(matte) and ardcoat(gloss). I first use a light coat of gloss over the entire mini, to seal in the paintjob and decals. and then I go over most of the mini with matte where I don't want it to shine as much.
-I want to recommend varnishing the base rims with at least one coat before handling the rest of the mini. You can see, over the length of the video, how it's peeling off the blue, revealing the black base layer, towards the end.
-You can paint over varnish, it will add more thickness to your paint layers, but it helps if you use effect paints, so it wont damage the paint under the varnish.
-I also Mix gloss and matte if I want variations, and a bit of water since the citadel varnishes are water based.
Would your recommend varnishing the base if there’s static grass on the surface as well?
Good advice for any varnish, unless it's a rattle can. Add some to a palette, and mix it with a equal amount of water. Then apply it. This way you avoid streaks, however you might need to add about 2-3 of these thinner coats👍💪
Ahh okay! Thankyou for the insight! 😄
I use Matt varnish on all my models. However, I dont use it to add protection, but to remove sheen from paints and also make everything look a bit more uniform. As you noticed, transfers look a lot better after varnishing, but wet blended areas will also look better. You can use Lahmian Medium for this as well, but who would use that to de-shine an entire model...
Also, keep in mind that different brands of varnishes produce different results.
Personally i use Humbrol's matt varnish which comes in a rattle can. The only downside of this stuff though is that it can make metalics look like trash. But as i usually paint NMM, that doesn't really affect me.
I've not used the Vallejo varnish before but it looks similar to the Winsor&Newton one. Try shaking it up a lot and then try again on a pouldron to see if you get more of a matt finish as i dont think it's meant to be that shiny.
Ahh okay, cool! Thankyou for the insight! 😄
As a note, no need to add it more heavily, the shine result wont change. To get a different finish you need different varnish, such as satin or gloss. Try not to paint it too thick as it takes alot longer to dry.
Cool beans! Thankyou for the insight! 😁
I use matt, satin and gloss varnish. Matt for face and head, satin for armour and leather, gloss for certain parts for highlight and gems. I must add, I use an airbrush for even coating. I paint custodes so lots of gold metal .
Addendum:
I forgot. I stopped varnishing armour after changing gold paint. I will also stop varnishing heads after learning a new head paint technique
Okay cool, thankyou! 😁
@@AdeptusArtifexusI agree, that's quote shiny matt varnish
You can paint over varnish. In fact it's a good idea when using washes (especially oil). Also never had a separate brush for varnish, just any old one will do. As long as you clean it, it will be fine.
Ahh okay cool, that's good to know! Thanks for the insight! 😁
I use vallejo's airbrush matte varnsih and I get much more matte results from it, to the extent that I actually swapped to satin because it was too matte for my use case, so I think this could be an airbrush/regular brush distinction.
Okay, good to know! Thankyou! 😁
From what I’ve understood the matte-ness differs *a lot* from brand to brand, I’ve seen several videos about the different … mattenessessess ? A quick YT-search for miniature varnish should hopefully show some results with some recommendations :)
Yeah, I can imagine each brand has their own take on it! 😁
*_VAH - LAY - HOE_* (Vallejo) ✅ -( VA-LAY-JOE )- ❌
( "Ave Dominus Nox" ;-)
Thankyou kindly! 😁 given your apparent allegiance I take it with a pinch of salt but thankyou! 😂
AK Ultra Matte through an airbrush. If you don't have an airbrush, you can get a cheap all in one setup for around $40 US. The AK UltraMatte will absolutely knock down any shine. Don't use it on metallics. Good luck, and thanks for taking me with you on your hobby adventures!
Ahh okay, cool! I'll be looking all those up! 😁 Thankyou!
The thumbnail got me😂
It was some shiny matt varnish, bro! 😂
who told you to dropper it right on? lol, good grief, they were trolling you. you just treat it like paint, use a brush or airbrush. With airbrush you really need to thin it a lot, but thats it. Gloss over a mini never looks good - if you are really into the protection aspect, do it gloss (gloss is far "harder") then do matt over it. But, to be quite honest, varnish isn't realy a thing for plastic minis, its more a hold over from the metal days, where paint chipped off easily. It's other main use these days is as a sealant before doing oil wash / oil work layers as it stops the oil from interacting with the acrylic and ups the capillary action of the oil. But even then, most will do this order: paint - gloss varnish - oil work - finishing - matt varnish final, to remove the shine.
No-one told me anything 😂 I followed my gut for the whole thing!
I like to matt varnish faces to look more skin colour.
I have varnished some armour but I stopped that, no need to do it as I like the new paint I use.
I agree about protection, if you play games with the models it helps, but I don't play, I just paint so I've decided to only varnish for effect now, such as gloss for gems
have word with that gut lol!@@AdeptusArtifexus
Blessed by The Great Unclean One, so funny😅
No escaping him 😂
I’m at the start of the video, I’m going to tell you i do it because for some reason my skin eats paint. But i also thin it and run it through my air brush
Use hlthe can or airbrush version
yes. But be caregul. Some varnishes aren't matte. Some are even do bad they make the model become sticky forever.
Thankfully our techmarine Jamman became un-sticky after about a day of recording so this stuff I have won't do that, it seems! 😁
Two thin coats
👍
1:02
All must be blessed by The Great Unclean One! 😹😹😹