I'm a woodworker as well as a mini/model enthusiast and have been using varnishes/polyurethane/shellacs for years. The only real diference between matte/satin/gloss are the flatteners that are added to reduce shine. No, gloss does not protect better than matte. The reason to add a gloss coat would be to 1 protect paint from being stained by a wash (paints and the flatteners used in matte varnish are easily stained by washes and inks) or to provide a glassy surface for applying decals. That's it. If you aren't doing either, a coat of matte will protect your minis just fine (and yes, you always want to protect them).
And then wich Varnish or combo is better? I want to paint World Eaters (red colours). Gloss - i hate *sparky* lightly on mini. Matte - bright colours after that looks more darker. Satin = gloss Optimal combo is gloss + matte?
@@catyara I would go with a gloss coat before the decals and then use a satin finish, especially given the metallics I'm sure you're using for all the gold. A matte finish will flatten the gold sheen far too much.
@@anthonymaravola3966 Thanks for the information. Much obliged. For years many have sworn to first adding a gloss varnish and then going over with two thin coats with either satin or matt varnish. Since I still have a bottle of gloss left I'll stick to this method for its remainder.
I’m hoping Brent just goes more Lynchian. Long black and white shots of eating Funyons while he puts out a cigarette on a mini to test something. Close ups of oil-stained fingers dragging across a Monopoly board. Somewhere his cats are eating a rabbit. Brent looks to the camera, takes a drag from a cigarette, “Welcome to Goobertown, no one leaves.”
Oh! The Pawn'a'rium kickstarter with those orange dwarfs is still live for a few more hours! I thought the idea of busts as game pieces was pretty fun. www.kickstarter.com/projects/pawnarium/pawnarium-miniatures-1-stl-files?ref=discovery&term=pawnarium
My OCD needs to comment and highlight some variables that may not be accounted for: Back in ye oldehammer days before plastic, the gloss varnish was generally not an acrylic, because its JUST acrylic, received wisdom (from ancient white dwarfs and wargames books) recommended spirit based varnishes, usually from an art shop or an automotive or yacht varnish spray, which is more hard wearing than an acrylic varnish. THEN you would go over with your matt, which also tended to be non acrylic. I'm not convinced of any difference between matt and gloss vanish of any one kind, except that matt is likely to suffer greater friction due to a less slippy surface. From personal experiment there's not really any benefit to priming plastic other than as a nice canvass to work on, GW primers are just spray acrylic anyway, they don't have any actual priming qualities like surface etching, as found in 'real' primers, because acrylic bonds pretty well to Poly Plastic it seems. Metal minis however benefit from a REAL primer for sure (but almost certainly not very much from a spray can of GW acrylic). Next: is the 3D printer resin actually the same as casting resin as used in mini casting? I'd suggest at the very least the difference is that cast resin would potentially leech out plasticisers and mold release if fresh. Maybe.... I don't know anything about 3d Printers but thought I'd raise this FOR PSEUDOSCIENCE. Lastly...it looked like the tape was squashing the foam somewhat, which would create a much firmer grasp on the internal minis, minimising any potential wriggle room (and therefore friction) compared to being placed in a normal case, and I think without the wriggle room you aren't going to get the friction and potential wear on the same level as the real thing. Sorry for all the WHAT ABOUTS, it's a damn fine service you are providing, thank you!. FOR SCIENCE!!
I use Testors dullcote / glosscote and some spray cans that aren't acryllic, as well as some AK interactive "ultra matte" acrylic which is actually ULTRA matte. Don't want to get carried away brushing on that testors stuff cuz it starts to soften the paint
You know, i build scale models for a few years now (also here on youtube), and i have some experience with primers and clear coats. I tried many primers and i can honestly say now that vallejo primers are probably the worst for scale models. Priming is essential and for me primer must be durable, must be able to fill a tiny scratches and work as a microfiller and last, you should be able to sand it if you see any imperfections on the model when you prime it. Im sure this is not such an issue with mini figures, but it's really importand on model kits to be able to sand it after you primed the model, and this is where Vallejo primers really sucks. Since these are acrylic primer, there is no chemical reaction betwen the primer and plastic, so primer is only a skin on top of it and when you start to sand it, its just startin to peel off and thats a terrible durability. for plastic models u suggest using lacquer based Mr.Surfacer 1500 (that also work as microfiller) thinned with Mr.Leveling thinner. Since its a lacquer based paint, it kind of melts itself with a surface beneth and leveling thinner helps the primer to level itself on the surface. That gives super durability and the surface is sandable too. Believe me, you will see the quality when you test these against vinyl primers like vallejo especially when you gonna build some 40k vehicles. I also highly recommend lacquer based varnishes like mr.color GX super clear . Awesome channel mate, im sure watching your videos will help me paint my Fallout wasteland warfare minis :)
I thought I was slightly nutz for doing a D20 dice probability test, rolling two sets of 4 dice 100 times. I found that one brand rolled slightly higher. Not a big difference.
another experiment that could be interesting is what is the best way to clean of Cheeto of Funyuns dust without damaging the paint. maybe see if there is a difference between if you clean them right away, like when you got home from a tournament vs if the oil and dust was left to sit for a few days
That was an interesting experiment and helps to confirm what I have been doing in the past such as priming, painting and clear coating. Thanks for taking the time to do this experiment and sharing the results.
A new word for my vocabulary: "Funyunated" and as someone who likes Funyuns, I am glad to see them being useful in scientific endeavors. And of course, glad to see your cats are properly supervising your work.
Thank you so much for the time you spend in testing so I don't have to. Your rigor and dedication are among the many things that make this my current favorite channel on youtube. And your cats help quite a bit with that too!
Dude thanks so much for the time and effort you've put into these tests and videos. The discipline involved and time put into it is amazing. Thank so much man. I will def be sharing this video my friend.
My understanding is that Gloss followed by Matte is less for protection and more to make applying waterslide decals easier. The gloss is nice and flat for the decal to sit on and adhere to while the matte takes off the gloss’s shine and helps the edges of the waterslide blend in.
love putting your videos on in the background when painting man. Got back into the hobby last year and your videos have been a massive help. Keep up the great work :)
Brent, thank you so much for taking the time to make these videos for us. It can be difficult finding concise info for some of the more obscure aspects of hobbying but hot damn you always come through for us with that awesome science brain!! Cheers :D
Haven’t been watching UA-cam for a while as I have been worrying about and writing my dissertation. This instantly puts a smile on my face and I feel relaxed, thank you for your content and relaxing voice!
I just saw this, a little but what a great video! I love and appreciate proper testing, thanks for taking the time to do this. Looking forward to reviewing your other videos.
One other advantage about doing a gloss coat and then matte over it is that varnish can probably wear over time. Thus, if you start to see some shine poking through, you know it's time to give it another coat of matte.
I love your content, the perfect blend of informative, wholesome, relaxing, with some humor thrown in. I almost always have your videos on in the background while I paint or model. Your videos have helped me become a better painter, and a more patient person, you even inspired me to pick up the paint brush after a long hiatus from fighting off the black dog. Much thanks for the videos and I'm looking forward to your next video.
This is great and it just re-enforces my beliefs regarding varnishing minis BUT I would love to have varnish horror stories re-created and see proof of ways in which to avoid them No.1 enemy: Frosting minis when varnishing .. but also 2. how not to wreck your airbrush when varnishing i.e. leaving it with residual varnish left in the airbrush all night. I had an ABSOLUTE NIGHTMARE with varnish last month .. I had 20 Elf Union Blood Bowl elves all painted up ready to airbrush using AK Interactive Ultra Matt Varnish using an airbrush. .. I shook the bottle of varnish 2 minutes. then poured 50/50 distilled water and varnish into the cup at 35 PSI..... I proceeded to varnish the 20 elves in quick succession, took no more than 30-40 minutes in total. But what happened ? some of the varnish accumulated in the recesses of the elves and I got think white goo balls in the cracks and recesses of the minis. Thankfully I brushed them with water just in time and saved the minis, the varnish would have hardened otherwise and filled the recesses with a thick white varnish ... ? what caused this I wonder ? was it too much varnish ? had some varnish accumulated on the underside of the cup lip of the airbrush and hardened slightly and then dropped down into my cup ? (I noticed that I had to up my PSI to almost 60 to get the varnish out of the airbrush for the end run). I dunno .. but I had to be quick about it in removing the semi dried varnish from the minis.. it was stressful.
Please keep making more videos! Not to many youtubers keep up the great content like you do. This is obviously a passion hobby for you. That is what counts!
This actually proves something I've been convinced of for some time: Priming is a leftover practice from the days of mostly metal miniatures, and mostly or even entirely unneccessary for plastic and resin minis. I've never used primer on a plastic or resin model in my life - only ever basecoated with regular paint - and haven't had a single negative experience with it.
Very good. Hobby science is great fun and useful too. A thought concerning the foam abrasion test, do you think the the tightness or looseness of the foam trays would affect abrasion? I.e. if the trays are firmly pressed together (and so against the models) the models don't move much and so don't rub against the foam much, whereas if the foam trays are only loosely stacked on one another (still firmly enough to prevent models spilling out of course) the models would presumably move around more and experience more rubbing against the foam perhaps resulting in more wear?
I think the models could move around a bit, but you may be on to something here. The shaking in an airplane hold might be worse than a tumble dry too, hard to say!
thats really cool that the sprayed matte and sprayed gloss both held up the same. im new to the hobby so i dont have any superstitions :p so ill spray matte for protection and just use my gloss varnish when i want to cause something to run like a mad man when im using oil washes.
This is great (and also a very good use of a monopoly board). Keep them coming! I love your hobby science stuff! As for the video wishes- It would be great to see something about re-basing figures without damaging them too badly in one of your future videos.
Video idea: Washing different kinds of miniatures before painting and its effects on painting the model. I know I probably wouldn't need to do it, but I still like to wash even my new GW plastics before painting out of superstition.
i do have a request maybe for a special occasion in the far future. i loved the random figure and dice roll you've created. you remember the video where you had the bar and multiple figures? what if you have a few building and furniture that is randomly decided (like the bar setup) then 2-3 figures randomly decided. you'll then have to roll dice for the theme as usual. the biggest challenge would be creating a scene. maybe you have a cottage with a royal guard and assasin. is the royal guard hiring the assasin for a dark deed? possible treason against the corrupt king perhaps? dwarf and high elf at a pub arguing who is the mightiest? you're amazing at combining and creating stories. it would be an awesome event in my opinion. I'm sure it's expensive, but maybe once a year special or a one time thing. you're creation has no limits! I love this channel.
I spend a lot of time painting my minis to a high display standard, and I always protect them with a layer of a very sturdy varnish which is a bit glossy, and then I put a layer of matt varnish on top for a super-matt, true to the colors finish. The best protection, however, ist the following: I magnetize all bazes and transport the minis in metal boxes - there's no foam rubbing against them. I also always only touch the minis at their base rim, and other people are only allowed to touch them there. Should someone not abide by these rules, his or her hands are in jeopardy. I also build large models with lighting and all bells and whistles - mostly Star Wars. These have to be touched in order to move them, put them into a box for transport or set them up for display. I found a very cool method to protect them: I varnish them matt first, and then mist a sturdy, satin-gloss varnish on top. The sturdy varnish partly mixes with the matt first layer and becomes less satin and more matt, and it also creates a slightly rough surface on a microskopic level. The result is very sturdy, and because of the microscopic roughness repells fluids not dissimilar to teflon. What's more, because of the tiny roughness, the surfaces are also super-matt, even with harsh light reflecting off them at a very shallow angle, at which normally almost every matt varnish starts to appear glossy.
Its experiment time! What about fluids? Eg if someone spilt beer / coke / mountain dew / energy drink / water on a mini how long does it take to remove paint (just chuck minis in a bowl of each and check on them every x minutes) on from a varnished / unvarnished / primed and so on mini. For the above sugary fluids what's the best way to clean that off without damaging paintwork?
Whiskey, and whiskey and coke would probably be the most aggressive standard gaming fluids. Outside of the alcohol, the phosphoric acid can play merry hob on a lot of varnishes and sealants.
Thanks Brent for doing this experiment instead of us. The result was expected, but it is good to get a "scientific" confirmation that all that varnish I used was not in vain :)
I have a question. I used Tin Bitz as the base colour for my Eldar Army. I also used metallics for the elite teams such as green for Scorpions and Blue for Banshee. When I bought my first lot I varnished the metals but not the plastics which in some cases are now 15 years old. I note that the plastics are not wearing in terms of paint rub or chipping. (Though they are prone to losing fiddly bits). So does metallic paint have properties similar to varnish?
Primer is more for when you're painting, so you are less likely to rub off paint if it bumps or if you touch the mini with your fingers during painting
Thank you for these videos, I just started getting into the hobby and this has helped me answer definitively whether or not I want to bother varnishing, I think I will just for the added protection against greasy fingers!
Awesome! I have been waiting for this video since the last one, it left me with a burning desire to know matte vs gloss vs combo. Love it! Thank you for your service. We will remember the sacrifice of the fallen Funions fondly.
Have you ever considered testing different kinds of varnish (acrylic, polyurethane, enamel, etc.)? I’ve heard a lot of people say acrylic isn’t as protective as polyurethane or enamel. Since you already tested the “worst” kind and found it’s protective against light wear like handling and foam, maybe some metal minis and your shake test like you did with the goblins for a very aggressive test could get fairly quick results that don’t involve four hours of effort.
This video and the last deserves my like and a comment just for the sheer commitment to thorough testing.. also, I really need to sit down and varnish the rest of my minis!
Presumably, once oils get on to the paint of an unvarnished mini there is some degradation over time that wouldn’t have shown up in this test? A bit like print photographs showing fingers prints. Maybe you could but some of the sample set into a box out of direct sunlight and check them after 6 or 12 months? Just to see what, if anything, happens?
Now I want a bowl of funions! Never painted with medal minis before. Thanks so much for the appreciation you show to your craft. These experiences make us all better hobbyists! You rock Brent!
Just got my first orderd varnish today and I was planning on spraying it. Great timing on the test Brent! :) Also, the fast time-lapse looks very nice.
I would love to find out which gloss varnish is best to use when applying a enamel panel liner. For example do any varnish formulas promote the flow of the enamel down the cracks better than others.
Kudo's for pushing mini's in such a way that it looks good when speeded up (and thanks for the results, very insightful-I usually do two coats of gloss over a metal mini). And also kudo's keep on moving the mini's it even when your cat tried to sabotage the vid :D
I have experience with foam packaging rubbing paint off of metal models (so... much... experience...). The problem was generally less from the models rubbing against the packaging while in the box, and more with moving the models in and out of the foam. The sliding does a real number on the paint on the raised edges. But if they're just sitting in the tray on an airplane, that part isn't a n issue.
As I watched you move these minis for hours I came to the conclusion. You are either truly, truly dedicated to your craft or you are insane.......or maybe both. Lol
I have one for you, but I do not know how to test that : I have magnetised my stegadon and I always keep the pieces separate because I'm afraid that if I store it assembled, the paint will tear around the connection points...
I learnt from wood working gloss then matte because matte over matte dulls the paint as the gloss starts to turn opaque. I noticed it on my models too so now I do gloss then matte (because I like 2 coats of varnish).
My arms and my carpal tunnel weep for you and yours! Great video. Loved the time lapses and thoroughly detailed experiments to come to your conclusions. Thanks for doing this, so we don't have to! Oh, and Funyuns rock! Glad to know I can keep eating mine when I'm painting and handling my minis. :).
I like how kitty wanted to participate throughtout this experiment. and also yes, thank you sir for this *VERY* time consuming demonstration, your labors are well noticed and appreciated. 😎
Also I came up with a question I'd like answered. It is known that UV light (like from the sun) over extended time tends to damage paints on various materials. How do acrylics on minis fare long-term? How do oils fare? Does varnish impact that in any way? Why does that thing with UV light even happen and can something be done to protect the things impacted. Please I need answers, I am planning to place a display cabinet near a window pointed to the south xD
I must say Brent... I really love your videos. I know this was a while ago but I really liked the video when you picked a model to paint that sparked your excitement at the moment. This video (the one today) was very creative and your cats are adorable! :)
I remember reading on a forum years ago that gloss isnt any better than matte at protection, but if you want two coats, two layers of matte will obscure blends and such more than a coat of gloss and then a coat of matte will. It sounded good, so I've been working with that in mind. :P
As Always, very informative and I love these videos as I always learn something new, and something that is very relevant. I didn't know about varnishing the models and now after watching both videos I know to varnish, which one to use And! how best to apply it. Like I said Very! informative video.
Brent. You can just buy and eat Funyuns because you want to. You don't need to create these experiments as an excuse. It's OK.
this changes everything.
Why did you tell him !!
tax deductable funyuns
Lololol
When is the Goobertown Magic Craft crossover coming, where Brent makes terrain and Jeremy does Funion testing?
Can we just appreciate how Brent spent 6 hours of his life pushing minis for the greater good of the hobby community?
for the greater good.
@@GoobertownHobbies You should have had Guinness there to get the record for longest time at a Monopoly board without flipping the table over.
@@GoobertownHobbies Trying to decide if this is a T'au thing or a Hot Fuzz thing.
There's a whole bunch of murderising either way, I suppose.
@@GoobertownHobbies Tau'va
@@GoobertownHobbies This is the way!
>"These experiments are fun"
> moving minis around a monopoly board for 6+ hours.
Brent, are you ok?
LOL 'Blink Twice if Frito-Lay is holding you hostage as a way to advertise Funyuns!'
The man has a PhD. In chemistry this involves 3 years of adding solvents together. Same same
thank the lord there are podcasts ;D
I'm a woodworker as well as a mini/model enthusiast and have been using varnishes/polyurethane/shellacs for years. The only real diference between matte/satin/gloss are the flatteners that are added to reduce shine. No, gloss does not protect better than matte. The reason to add a gloss coat would be to 1 protect paint from being stained by a wash (paints and the flatteners used in matte varnish are easily stained by washes and inks) or to provide a glassy surface for applying decals. That's it. If you aren't doing either, a coat of matte will protect your minis just fine (and yes, you always want to protect them).
makes sense to me! :-)
And then wich Varnish or combo is better? I want to paint World Eaters (red colours). Gloss - i hate *sparky* lightly on mini.
Matte - bright colours after that looks more darker.
Satin = gloss
Optimal combo is gloss + matte?
@@catyara I would go with a gloss coat before the decals and then use a satin finish, especially given the metallics I'm sure you're using for all the gold. A matte finish will flatten the gold sheen far too much.
@@anthonymaravola3966 Thanks for the information. Much obliged.
For years many have sworn to first adding a gloss varnish and then going over with two thin coats with either satin or matt varnish. Since I still have a bottle of gloss left I'll stick to this method for its remainder.
I’m hoping Brent just goes more Lynchian. Long black and white shots of eating Funyons while he puts out a cigarette on a mini to test something. Close ups of oil-stained fingers dragging across a Monopoly board. Somewhere his cats are eating a rabbit.
Brent looks to the camera, takes a drag from a cigarette, “Welcome to Goobertown, no one leaves.”
check back in a few years :-)
I'll see you again in 25 years.
"I wonder how he's going to do the abrasion test. Maybe he'll toss them in the dryer or something..."
7:52
"Oh dear lord he's really doing it..."
awww yeahhh!!!! :-)
Oh boy, the Funions are back... Never thought I'd see Sisters suffering side-by-side with Gretchins...
"But will you suffer side by side with a friend?"
First frame: Brent grinning into a camera and holding up a bag of chips.
Me: "Oh, it's that time again."
I haven't seen him do this before, all I could think was, "no, no, he's not gonna do it!"
Better grab your balloons and invite your friends!
Oh! The Pawn'a'rium kickstarter with those orange dwarfs is still live for a few more hours! I thought the idea of busts as game pieces was pretty fun. www.kickstarter.com/projects/pawnarium/pawnarium-miniatures-1-stl-files?ref=discovery&term=pawnarium
So it's sell em or bust?
thanks
My OCD needs to comment and highlight some variables that may not be accounted for:
Back in ye oldehammer days before plastic, the gloss varnish was generally not an acrylic, because its JUST acrylic, received wisdom (from ancient white dwarfs and wargames books) recommended spirit based varnishes, usually from an art shop or an automotive or yacht varnish spray, which is more hard wearing than an acrylic varnish. THEN you would go over with your matt, which also tended to be non acrylic. I'm not convinced of any difference between matt and gloss vanish of any one kind, except that matt is likely to suffer greater friction due to a less slippy surface.
From personal experiment there's not really any benefit to priming plastic other than as a nice canvass to work on, GW primers are just spray acrylic anyway, they don't have any actual priming qualities like surface etching, as found in 'real' primers, because acrylic bonds pretty well to Poly Plastic it seems. Metal minis however benefit from a REAL primer for sure (but almost certainly not very much from a spray can of GW acrylic).
Next: is the 3D printer resin actually the same as casting resin as used in mini casting? I'd suggest at the very least the difference is that cast resin would potentially leech out plasticisers and mold release if fresh. Maybe.... I don't know anything about 3d Printers but thought I'd raise this FOR PSEUDOSCIENCE.
Lastly...it looked like the tape was squashing the foam somewhat, which would create a much firmer grasp on the internal minis, minimising any potential wriggle room (and therefore friction) compared to being placed in a normal case, and I think without the wriggle room you aren't going to get the friction and potential wear on the same level as the real thing.
Sorry for all the WHAT ABOUTS, it's a damn fine service you are providing, thank you!. FOR SCIENCE!!
Hey, the what abouts are important! :-) This is an iterative process. I'll be referring to this list the next time I get hungry for funyuns!
I use Testors dullcote / glosscote and some spray cans that aren't acryllic, as well as some AK interactive "ultra matte" acrylic which is actually ULTRA matte. Don't want to get carried away brushing on that testors stuff cuz it starts to soften the paint
I appreciate how you dive in and give gamers the answers they need! You are on the dangerous, cutting edge of Tabletop science.
I appreciate that you've only got 2 ads for a full video unlike other youtubers that throw 9 ads in
Mate, I"m impressed by your determination.... 6 hours moving miniatures.... Did you have visions while doing this?
You wouldn't believe the things I saw...
@@GoobertownHobbies Attack ships on fire off the shoulder of Orion?
@@PhantomJavelin there's no way we can know if it was raining during the experiment, but I can guarantee there were tears.
Broke: going to the gym to work out
Woke: moving metal minis around a board 2,000 times to get swole
I recommend 1 gloss 1 matte coat as it reduces chances for fogging and also tells you when and where to revarnish in the future
Yeah that is a nice bonus! easy to see as you're applying the coats too.
Damn now that's greasy, it's like the Peloponnesian War on that Monopoly board
I think Brent might just be making these videos whenever he has a hankering for funions.
shhh!!!!
You legend. Can't believe you repeated this. The dedication is impressive.
It's for the love of time lapses
Oddly satisfying watching the sped up video at the end, and seeing the dice shuffle across the board from the vibrations of the pieces moving around.
right? makes it all worth it :-)
Dwarf Slayer conga line. Hilarious and deadly.
I'm just happy that you finally got to eat the second bag of funions!!!!
me too! (and it actually was the same bag from the first vid hahahaha)
@@GoobertownHobbies A+++++
You know, i build scale models for a few years now (also here on youtube), and i have some experience with primers and clear coats. I tried many primers and i can honestly say now that vallejo primers are probably the worst for scale models. Priming is essential and for me primer must be durable, must be able to fill a tiny scratches and work as a microfiller and last, you should be able to sand it if you see any imperfections on the model when you prime it. Im sure this is not such an issue with mini figures, but it's really importand on model kits to be able to sand it after you primed the model, and this is where Vallejo primers really sucks. Since these are acrylic primer, there is no chemical reaction betwen the primer and plastic, so primer is only a skin on top of it and when you start to sand it, its just startin to peel off and thats a terrible durability. for plastic models u suggest using lacquer based Mr.Surfacer 1500 (that also work as microfiller) thinned with Mr.Leveling thinner. Since its a lacquer based paint, it kind of melts itself with a surface beneth and leveling thinner helps the primer to level itself on the surface. That gives super durability and the surface is sandable too. Believe me, you will see the quality when you test these against vinyl primers like vallejo especially when you gonna build some 40k vehicles. I also highly recommend lacquer based varnishes like mr.color GX super clear . Awesome channel mate, im sure watching your videos will help me paint my Fallout wasteland warfare minis :)
I feel personally attacked by this title
I thought I was slightly nutz for doing a D20 dice probability test, rolling two sets of 4 dice 100 times. I found that one brand rolled slightly higher. Not a big difference.
another experiment that could be interesting is what is the best way to clean of Cheeto of Funyuns dust without damaging the paint. maybe see if there is a difference between if you clean them right away, like when you got home from a tournament vs if the oil and dust was left to sit for a few days
hehehe, that would be a lot of fun!!! Must start acquiring cheeto dust!! :-)
I appreciate your unwavering dedication to science. The Omnissiah would be pleased.
0:37 seconds in and im asking myself..."am i tripping or is Brent using some crazy warp magic"
That was an interesting experiment and helps to confirm what I have been doing in the past such as priming, painting and clear coating. Thanks for taking the time to do this experiment and sharing the results.
A new word for my vocabulary: "Funyunated" and as someone who likes Funyuns, I am glad to see them being useful in scientific endeavors. And of course, glad to see your cats are properly supervising your work.
Watching that model shuffle around the board is still hypnotic. Give us a 10-hour cut with some gentle music as a sleep aid!
Thank you so much for the time you spend in testing so I don't have to. Your rigor and dedication are among the many things that make this my current favorite channel on youtube. And your cats help quite a bit with that too!
Hey thanks! glad it's sort of useful! :-)
Dude thanks so much for the time and effort you've put into these tests and videos. The discipline involved and time put into it is amazing. Thank so much man. I will def be sharing this video my friend.
"not the hero we deserved, but the hero we needed!"
OMG I can't believe you spent over 6hrs on this your arms must be knackered.
My understanding is that Gloss followed by Matte is less for protection and more to make applying waterslide decals easier. The gloss is nice and flat for the decal to sit on and adhere to while the matte takes off the gloss’s shine and helps the edges of the waterslide blend in.
love putting your videos on in the background when painting man. Got back into the hobby last year and your videos have been a massive help. Keep up the great work :)
Imagine if Brent ever decided to use his amazing science powers for EVIL!!! :O
Brent, thank you so much for taking the time to make these videos for us. It can be difficult finding concise info for some of the more obscure aspects of hobbying but hot damn you always come through for us with that awesome science brain!! Cheers :D
Haven’t been watching UA-cam for a while as I have been worrying about and writing my dissertation. This instantly puts a smile on my face and I feel relaxed, thank you for your content and relaxing voice!
I just saw this, a little but what a great video! I love and appreciate proper testing, thanks for taking the time to do this. Looking forward to reviewing your other videos.
One other advantage about doing a gloss coat and then matte over it is that varnish can probably wear over time. Thus, if you start to see some shine poking through, you know it's time to give it another coat of matte.
I love how the time lapse makes it look the dice are slowly trying to run away while you aren't looking at them.
I noticed this too! xD
Thank you for all you do! I'm new to this all and trying to do everything as correctly as I can.
3:56 The bust minis really gives me some Battle Brothers vibes. Very cool! And that reminds me I need to play that some more..
I love your content, the perfect blend of informative, wholesome, relaxing, with some humor thrown in. I almost always have your videos on in the background while I paint or model. Your videos have helped me become a better painter, and a more patient person, you even inspired me to pick up the paint brush after a long hiatus from fighting off the black dog. Much thanks for the videos and I'm looking forward to your next video.
This is great and it just re-enforces my beliefs regarding varnishing minis BUT I would love to have varnish horror stories re-created and see proof of ways in which to avoid them No.1 enemy: Frosting minis when varnishing .. but also 2. how not to wreck your airbrush when varnishing i.e. leaving it with residual varnish left in the airbrush all night. I had an ABSOLUTE NIGHTMARE with varnish last month .. I had 20 Elf Union Blood Bowl elves all painted up ready to airbrush using AK Interactive Ultra Matt Varnish using an airbrush. .. I shook the bottle of varnish 2 minutes. then poured 50/50 distilled water and varnish into the cup at 35 PSI..... I proceeded to varnish the 20 elves in quick succession, took no more than 30-40 minutes in total. But what happened ? some of the varnish accumulated in the recesses of the elves and I got think white goo balls in the cracks and recesses of the minis. Thankfully I brushed them with water just in time and saved the minis, the varnish would have hardened otherwise and filled the recesses with a thick white varnish ... ? what caused this I wonder ? was it too much varnish ? had some varnish accumulated on the underside of the cup lip of the airbrush and hardened slightly and then dropped down into my cup ? (I noticed that I had to up my PSI to almost 60 to get the varnish out of the airbrush for the end run). I dunno .. but I had to be quick about it in removing the semi dried varnish from the minis.. it was stressful.
The incremental movement of the dice as you move the minis around the board look so cool under time lapse.
"these little experiments are fun" .... we need to get this poor, poor man some dire help :'(
I've been loving these tests, the conclusions keep being similar but not quite what you expect, and i love being surprised by the results :D
Please keep making more videos! Not to many youtubers keep up the great content like you do. This is obviously a passion hobby for you. That is what counts!
This actually proves something I've been convinced of for some time:
Priming is a leftover practice from the days of mostly metal miniatures, and mostly or even entirely unneccessary for plastic and resin minis.
I've never used primer on a plastic or resin model in my life - only ever basecoated with regular paint - and haven't had a single negative experience with it.
Very good. Hobby science is great fun and useful too.
A thought concerning the foam abrasion test, do you think the the tightness or looseness of the foam trays would affect abrasion? I.e. if the trays are firmly pressed together (and so against the models) the models don't move much and so don't rub against the foam much, whereas if the foam trays are only loosely stacked on one another (still firmly enough to prevent models spilling out of course) the models would presumably move around more and experience more rubbing against the foam perhaps resulting in more wear?
I think the models could move around a bit, but you may be on to something here. The shaking in an airplane hold might be worse than a tumble dry too, hard to say!
Ah, the ancient tech of fried onions is back. And now I'm hungry even if I had dinner 20 minutes ago.
Never a bad time for funyuns! :-)
thats really cool that the sprayed matte and sprayed gloss both held up the same. im new to the hobby so i dont have any superstitions :p so ill spray matte for protection and just use my gloss varnish when i want to cause something to run like a mad man when im using oil washes.
Next: how different varnish’s protect minis being used as cat toys.
This is great (and also a very good use of a monopoly board). Keep them coming! I love your hobby science stuff!
As for the video wishes- It would be great to see something about re-basing figures without damaging them too badly in one of your future videos.
Man, I totally love these videos, thank you Papa Goob 🙏
Video idea: Washing different kinds of miniatures before painting and its effects on painting the model. I know I probably wouldn't need to do it, but I still like to wash even my new GW plastics before painting out of superstition.
i do have a request maybe for a special occasion in the far future.
i loved the random figure and dice roll you've created. you remember the video where you had the bar and multiple figures?
what if you have a few building and furniture that is randomly decided (like the bar setup) then 2-3 figures randomly decided. you'll then have to roll dice for the theme as usual. the biggest challenge would be creating a scene. maybe you have a cottage with a royal guard and assasin. is the royal guard hiring the assasin for a dark deed? possible treason against the corrupt king perhaps?
dwarf and high elf at a pub arguing who is the mightiest?
you're amazing at combining and creating stories. it would be an awesome event in my opinion. I'm sure it's expensive, but maybe once a year special or a one time thing. you're creation has no limits! I love this channel.
I spend a lot of time painting my minis to a high display standard, and I always protect them with a layer of a very sturdy varnish which is a bit glossy, and then I put a layer of matt varnish on top for a super-matt, true to the colors finish. The best protection, however, ist the following: I magnetize all bazes and transport the minis in metal boxes - there's no foam rubbing against them. I also always only touch the minis at their base rim, and other people are only allowed to touch them there. Should someone not abide by these rules, his or her hands are in jeopardy.
I also build large models with lighting and all bells and whistles - mostly Star Wars. These have to be touched in order to move them, put them into a box for transport or set them up for display. I found a very cool method to protect them: I varnish them matt first, and then mist a sturdy, satin-gloss varnish on top. The sturdy varnish partly mixes with the matt first layer and becomes less satin and more matt, and it also creates a slightly rough surface on a microskopic level. The result is very sturdy, and because of the microscopic roughness repells fluids not dissimilar to teflon. What's more, because of the tiny roughness, the surfaces are also super-matt, even with harsh light reflecting off them at a very shallow angle, at which normally almost every matt varnish starts to appear glossy.
Your commitment is truly appreciated, science (and the community) thanks you for your sacrifice!
Its experiment time! What about fluids? Eg if someone spilt beer / coke / mountain dew / energy drink / water on a mini how long does it take to remove paint (just chuck minis in a bowl of each and check on them every x minutes) on from a varnished / unvarnished / primed and so on mini. For the above sugary fluids what's the best way to clean that off without damaging paintwork?
Hehehe, that would be a fun test :-)
Whiskey, and whiskey and coke would probably be the most aggressive standard gaming fluids. Outside of the alcohol, the phosphoric acid can play merry hob on a lot of varnishes and sealants.
Thanks Brent for doing this experiment instead of us. The result was expected, but it is good to get a "scientific" confirmation that all that varnish I used was not in vain :)
I have a question. I used Tin Bitz as the base colour for my Eldar Army. I also used metallics for the elite teams such as green for Scorpions and Blue for Banshee. When I bought my first lot I varnished the metals but not the plastics which in some cases are now 15 years old. I note that the plastics are not wearing in terms of paint rub or chipping. (Though they are prone to losing fiddly bits). So does metallic paint have properties similar to varnish?
Primer is more for when you're painting, so you are less likely to rub off paint if it bumps or if you touch the mini with your fingers during painting
Thank you for these videos, I just started getting into the hobby and this has helped me answer definitively whether or not I want to bother varnishing, I think I will just for the added protection against greasy fingers!
Awesome! I have been waiting for this video since the last one, it left me with a burning desire to know matte vs gloss vs combo. Love it! Thank you for your service. We will remember the sacrifice of the fallen Funions fondly.
anytime! happy to help :-)
Have you ever considered testing different kinds of varnish (acrylic, polyurethane, enamel, etc.)? I’ve heard a lot of people say acrylic isn’t as protective as polyurethane or enamel. Since you already tested the “worst” kind and found it’s protective against light wear like handling and foam, maybe some metal minis and your shake test like you did with the goblins for a very aggressive test could get fairly quick results that don’t involve four hours of effort.
This video and the last deserves my like and a comment just for the sheer commitment to thorough testing.. also, I really need to sit down and varnish the rest of my minis!
9:10 I like watching the dice migrate across the board in the time lapse
I love this one giving me ideas to paint Gandalf and the Balrog on Bridge of Khazad-dûm love it, you always fire me up to paint and push myself
Presumably, once oils get on to the paint of an unvarnished mini there is some degradation over time that wouldn’t have shown up in this test? A bit like print photographs showing fingers prints. Maybe you could but some of the sample set into a box out of direct sunlight and check them after 6 or 12 months? Just to see what, if anything, happens?
Now I want a bowl of funions! Never painted with medal minis before. Thanks so much for the appreciation you show to your craft. These experiences make us all better hobbyists! You rock Brent!
Just got my first orderd varnish today and I was planning on spraying it. Great timing on the test Brent! :)
Also, the fast time-lapse looks very nice.
woooo!!! protect them!!!
One of the most understudied fields of miniature science. You’re a hero to civilization
Comments for the Algorithm God!!!!! YAY more science. Will admit, love the Funyuns but boy would cheetos be an amusing test as well.
I would love to find out which gloss varnish is best to use when applying a enamel panel liner. For example do any varnish formulas promote the flow of the enamel down the cracks better than others.
I appreciate that the snack remains consistent to mitigate the variables in this experiment
Kudo's for pushing mini's in such a way that it looks good when speeded up (and thanks for the results, very insightful-I usually do two coats of gloss over a metal mini). And also kudo's keep on moving the mini's it even when your cat tried to sabotage the vid :D
hahaha, those cats do love funyuns! :-)
Just gon hit this with a like and comment for the sheer amount of work you put into this
I have experience with foam packaging rubbing paint off of metal models (so... much... experience...). The problem was generally less from the models rubbing against the packaging while in the box, and more with moving the models in and out of the foam. The sliding does a real number on the paint on the raised edges. But if they're just sitting in the tray on an airplane, that part isn't a n issue.
I have never seen anybody with that much dedication move miniature figures around a monopoly board
As I watched you move these minis for hours I came to the conclusion. You are either truly, truly dedicated to your craft or you are insane.......or maybe both. Lol
Pawn'a'rium minis remind me of Battle Brothers. Nice.
Wow, I didn't expect you to do a test like this. Respect and thank you. What a hassle.
I have one for you, but I do not know how to test that : I have magnetised my stegadon and I always keep the pieces separate because I'm afraid that if I store it assembled, the paint will tear around the connection points...
there's probably some friction there yeah... but only if you're moving it?
I learnt from wood working gloss then matte because matte over matte dulls the paint as the gloss starts to turn opaque. I noticed it on my models too so now I do gloss then matte (because I like 2 coats of varnish).
While the results were pretty much what I expected, it is always good to have confirmation. And your videos are just so relaxing...
My arms and my carpal tunnel weep for you and yours!
Great video. Loved the time lapses and thoroughly detailed experiments to come to your conclusions. Thanks for doing this, so we don't have to!
Oh, and Funyuns rock! Glad to know I can keep eating mine when I'm painting and handling my minis. :).
My man sat for HOURS and moved minis for an experiment. This is dedication for the greater good. Thank you sir.
An experiment I would really like to see in the future is how to best protect the colors of our paint job from sun damage!
I was totally thinking about that! The UV curing stations for 3d prints are gonna come in handy :-)
Sun damage varies pretty dramatically based on paint color, brand, and medium. The only real solution is "don't leave them in the sun for hours".
I like how kitty wanted to participate throughtout this experiment.
and also yes, thank you sir for this *VERY* time consuming demonstration, your labors are well noticed and appreciated. 😎
I have always gone gloss then matt not for extra protection but so I can see if any rubs off by the change in finish.
Also I came up with a question I'd like answered. It is known that UV light (like from the sun) over extended time tends to damage paints on various materials. How do acrylics on minis fare long-term? How do oils fare? Does varnish impact that in any way? Why does that thing with UV light even happen and can something be done to protect the things impacted.
Please I need answers, I am planning to place a display cabinet near a window pointed to the south xD
This is very nice, but what brands do you use, as I feel much like primers that there is a wide variance in quality of them?
Oh yeah! Greasy gamer is back!
Your tedious labours are appreciated.
I must say Brent... I really love your videos. I know this was a while ago but I really liked the video when you picked a model to paint that sparked your excitement at the moment. This video (the one today) was very creative and your cats are adorable! :)
hey glad you're having fun! Me too :-)
I remember reading on a forum years ago that gloss isnt any better than matte at protection, but if you want two coats, two layers of matte will obscure blends and such more than a coat of gloss and then a coat of matte will. It sounded good, so I've been working with that in mind. :P
Yeah all Matte is, is gloss with Chalk mixed in. It sprotection is 1:1.
As Always, very informative and I love these videos as I always learn something new, and something that is very relevant. I didn't know about varnishing the models and now after watching both videos I know to varnish, which one to use And! how best to apply it.
Like I said Very! informative video.
Getting hypnotised by the dice movement at the end !