Yep. They’re interested in swapping out parts for quick insurance money. I tried to get a truck with little rust and minimal dents re painted. None of my local shops would fool with it or wanted a ridiculous price to cover what they would miss doing collision repair.
I watched your video just before I replaced my GMC Sierra rocker panels and lower cab corners; to see the correct way to do the job and build up my confidence. Space between the rear of the cab and the bed was too narrow to MIG weld, so I cheated. Did not want to remove the bed to facilitate welding. I welded what I could around the rear of the cab corner, then used adhesive to hold the sheet metal together. I feathered the edge with some bondo to blend it in. Not perfect but good enough for a 17 year old work truck. My neighbors were wowed. More importantly my wife thinks it looks great. It is infinitely better than it was.
That is a great video! These rockers are so common to rust out. I think every DIY garage guy would double his repair confidence level by watching this tutorial. The used motor oil or a fluid film type product is the key to making it last!! Thank you!!
@@andylong5432 Thanks for the idea Andy. For some reason the oil thinned with mineral spirits sounds flammable but I can spray it on a scrap piece of metal and literally hit it with a torch and it doesn't light up. I'll try your recipe one time and see how it goes :)
That's real talent. I was fascinated watching this guy take care of what is the scourge of every vehicle owner in New England. I wish I knew someone like this locally.
I just got a 2004 Excursion from Minnesota delivered today. Bought it sight unseen. Well, the pics didnt show the rocker panels rusted up pretty bad, just like the ones in your video. I was pretty upset when I first saw it. I've been watching videos all day and at 3AM, I come across yours. Well Sir, you make it look easy. I dont have a shop, but im pretty handy with the tools i have and after watching your video, im pretty sure I can give it a go. So thank you very much for the video. I will save it to come back to when Im ready. Much appreciated! liked and subscribed!
Thanks for subscribing. I have a lot of rust repair videos - ua-cam.com/play/PLOP9eoG14-I-qu68_805bZaOnmkdlv6Ys.html Feel free to ask ?s if you have 'em. Jerry
Pretty nice, I did both sides on my 2003 f150 supercrew and almost the same process but I used my dremel for the seem cuts, it makes a pencil tip cut and very thin to fill. But when I fitted the new to the old one I used magnetic tape, 3 pieces. 1 for each end and 1 in the middle. It contors to the piece and no mistakes can be made. Came out perfect. I took lots of pics but I should made a video. Each side took 1 weekend. And used Eastwood products for sealing inside n out
Great video! I am the proud original owner of my 99 F150 that hasn't a scratch on it but has the dreaded rocker panel rot. I'm planning to do outer and inner rockers and the front lower patch panels on the bed for a rust free truck once again. Next year it qualifies for historic plates and it will be the nicest 99 on the northern Michigan roads!
SUBSCRIBED! The more I'm recollecting the damage on my 1999 Toyota Solara: rust is on What's called the "Hinge Pillar". The hinge pillars are approximately the first sixth of the rocker panel length. It is also a discontinued part. Is there some flat stock that could build up that part on the car where the jack stand would go: right where the checkstand pinchweld is it's just collapsed inward and upward.
Thanks for sharing your skills and time. Rockers are always a challenge to fit properly. You aced this one. Wishing you and Yours the best of the season.
Keep up the cracking videos these skills need passed on as more people need too be saving old cars as new electric ones are garbage! Miss my days restoring old classic minis!
Thanks for the comment - like that word "cracking". You're right about the electric cars - seems far fetched to me - like the driverless cars. An engineer for Delphi told me in 2012 that we were going to be driverless by 2018 😄😄😄
It's actually better to treat the repair for rust after all the work is done. There will be bare metal spots around the weld when using that type of primer. See this video for an easier and longer lasting solution. ua-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/v-deo.html
Hi Jerry! I took note of that Mill Supply company where you got the replacement rocker. The local place where I used to order panels did a "restructuring" thing (pre-covid) and their prices have skyrocketed. Noticed you're using some Bench Mark Abrasives. I've been trying them too. Used a 40 grit flap disc to sharpen 3 beat up mower blades yesterday. I will easily get the other 3 done today with the same disc. Seems to be good stuff! I may try some of their resin fiber discs next
I love their stuff - good quality, fast shipping , reasonable price. Merry Christmas my friend and thanks for always watching and supporting - really appreciate it :)
Thanks! 👍 Yes replacement panels are nice. When I worked at my first job we never got to use replacement panels. Everything was made by hand like you said - or with filler :)
I saw you semi butt weld like Eastwood’s crimper players and it seams to me a good alternative to a true but weld. I would like to see a video on how to stabilize the rust between panels and how to blend seam sealer in roof gutters? Thanks for the video.
Your not concerned with the weld not going all the way across? Is that not really needed? I always worry about any little pin holes! Thanks for all your videos I learn a lot from you!
Not concerned at all. From my experience, the only place this rocker panel will begin to rust again is at the very bottom where water and moisture will gather. If you allow the rocker to drain well and squirt some old motor oil inside after you paint to coat that lower pinch weld, you'll be fine. Don't worry about putting the welds right on top of each other - if the patch is going to rust again it will start at the bottom not a seam up higher unless the panel can't drain and fills with wet debris, leaves, dirt, etc. Hope that helps a bit - Jerry
I was going to ask the same question, good point about it rotting bottom up. How about strength though? Any real difference between spots and continues weld?
@@Squintanditsmint The spot welds will be plenty strong. I don't think there would be any reason to try a continuous weld anywhere on the panel. Hope I answered your ? - if not ask again - Jerry
Just got through removing my drivers side rocker on the jeep. Lots of spot welds to drill… and about half we’re gone since the bottom of the inner and outer panels have already gone to be with the Lord. It’s tedious and time consuming. The little spot weld cutters from harbor freight go fairly quickly. I used 4 on the side. I’m thinking I’ll be back in there soon to do the inner panel and floor pans. It’s kind of therapeutic!
This is great. I just did a complete frame off resto to my 96 Dakota bumper to bumper, looks brand new now. Body work, which it doesn't need much at all, I won't attempt. That's definitely not my cup of tea. If I can find someone around here who does a hell of a job like you, I'll gladly pay them.
I like those old Dakotas - real tough, good looking trucks. Good luck and let me know when it's finished - would love to see some pictures. schoolvideolibrary at gmail dot com - Jerry
Excellent video again! Just brilliant! I love the way you're videos are to the point easy to understand, see what you're doing well explained not overly drawn out but have all the details you need at the same time! Spot on! Cheers from London England 👍😎🏴
Here's the same rocker done with glue - ua-cam.com/video/W9czvb2rFqY/v-deo.html I sure you could use 3M panel adhesive too - even JB Weld - ua-cam.com/video/wRl1QfkrBeY/v-deo.html - this repair is still good today :)
I don't but one thing to remember is that almost all rocker replacement is the same. So by watching this video, you should have a really good idea of what has to be done with any rocker repair :)
Thanks. See our R/H rocker panel forward end, area of cowl panel and rocker panel is badly corroded. I’ve cut the rotted rocker area and used the rocker panel aft of the door hinge to shape an 18 gage piece and trimmed it to fit the removed rotted area. However the fit is not perfect but I’ll be able to weld it into place (I hope.) As your experience probably has shown you these model trucks all corrode badly in that area.
Awesome! I like the use of the sand blaster on the welds! I notice sometimes you lap weld and sometimes you will butt weld. Is there times where one is preferred of another? I just found that you have a video on that! You have great stuff!
In the body shops I've worked at most guys would butt weld on areas that can't be tapped down and filled i.e. door edges, rigid rocker panels, a,b,c pillars, etc. In the wide open areas that can be tapped down and filled we lapped 😊
How do you keep the lap welds from rusting on the inside of the rocker panels. If you treat it with oil, how many times a year do you need to treat it? Thanks
Thanks my friend. Here's the playlist for that truck - there's some good videos on hand made bed panels. I will be doing preformed bed panels on this truck soon too. It needs a couple more spots fixed :) ua-cam.com/play/PLOP9eoG14-I_5orQdo3G4zEQPXmCkaK4K.html
Gotta do this on my 07 f150. Canadian winter are tough on vehicles. Finding panels to cut in are tough and $$. Wish u were my neighbor. Ha. Thanks jerry
I only work on my own clean title repairable vehicles or rusty vehicles that I will flip. Actually can't work on "customer" vehicles as the neighborhood has a keen eye on me 🥴
Here's my thoughts on butt vs lap - ua-cam.com/video/JIIonJOVro4/v-deo.html I have never used the silicon-bronze mig welding. Although my dad in his day would braze patches and he did really well with that method. It was pretty common back in the 50's and 60's I think - then came fiberglass cloth and eventually MIG.
@@LakesideAutobody Great discussion of Lap vs Butt in the link! Back in the day everything was done oxy-acetylene and unless you had great skill, you could not manage the distortion of welding - so some people brazed w/ o-a. The SiBr MIG brazing is pretty wild. It's more likely to be watertight and there is much less heat distortion. I've got some Ford Escape dog legs and wheel arches to do and think I'm going SiBr. I also have rockers and not sure about that one.
@@NoferTrunions Thanks for the information NT - I'll look into it - I like the watertight seem 👍 Let me know how it works out for you if you do that :)
@LakesideAutobody thank you for responding, i appreciate that.Both of mine need to be done. Might not be worth it for my 12 year old 150 that's gonna need a few other things for my Pennsylvania inspection.
How do you do that on a uni-body vehicle without the seam at the top - would you lap weld the entire distance? Also are replacement rockers amenable to either butt or lap welding at the surgeon's discretion or are they formed to fit using a specific installation method. I know they sell flimsy "slip on" panels that are over sized and cover up the whole mess without fixing anything.
Most of the guys (internet, magazines, TV) push butt welding everything but keep in mind that of the over 5000 welds in a new car - not one is a butt weld. If you work in a real body shop you will be lap welding 95% of the time. It is the discretion of the worker as to what weld will work best. Generally butt is for rigid edges and areas that the seam can't be tapped down. If you don't have a seam at the top then, yes, you would butt weld or probably use some type of plug welds but still a lap :)
@@LakesideAutobody So when you have replaced unibody rocker panels you have used preformed rockers that are able to be lapped over at the top and spot welded and then also spot welded at the seam on the bottom? I'm trying to get a specific answer. I bought good quality USA rocker panels but I can find no one to do the work in Virginia Beach on 60,000 mile Ford Contour from the rust belt. Like I'm from another planet to these people. So I have to try to see what I can do myself.
Here's a video that can explain it much better than I can here - ua-cam.com/video/JIIonJOVro4/v-deo.html Most professional body shops that still do rust in MI lap weld areas that can be tapped down and filled and butt weld where they can't like rigid areas - rockers, edges, door jambs, etc :)
Thanks for providing this video. I am learning how to tackle my project with a car. I am thinking about taking out my rocker panels. I wonder if it's possible to use hack saw? Even if it takes longer. I am a little nervous about using circular saw. One time I had a piece of jig saw fly over by my head when I installed my cabinets. I like to do things safely.
You can use a hack saw - yes. You can even use a sawzall - think that's how you spell it :) What ever you have that will cut metal - just be safe like you said. Safety glasses and gloves - sorry about the late reply - Jerry
I'd have to see it but I'm thinking you could cut that part out, save the part that the threads are on, weld that to new sheet metal and weld that home made part in. Hope that made sense - have a good weekend Tim :)
You can glue it if you prefer. I'm doing the other side right now but with impact resistant panel adhesive - basically gluing the rocker in place. If I didn't help you out ask again - where exactly would you want to glue or weld that wasn't shown in the vid? Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody I was looking to glue where it is around the interior, and weld everything else or glue it all? Can you tell me what glue you are using thanks
The 2005 Ram has the rocker panels hidden under the closed doors which is awesome. What's not awesome was stamped manufacturing holes in the steel on the inside rockers which they covered with tape! the tape let loose over the years allowing water, ice and salt to rot it. Since the outside rockers look good my temporary fix was lots of scraping/removal/sanding and rust-oleum rust reformer and taped the backside with gorilla tape.....left the drip holes open. It actually looks pretty darn good for a temporary fix. I may buy the inside rocker kit and that's why I'm here. Still haven't installed my wheel wells...After Christmas ;)
Great video! So disappointing that they build these this way. My 2012 expedition is disintegrating. Has about an inch and a half of mud inside the rockers. This is outside what I can do but know I know what to ask to make sure all this is done! The rear wheel wells are not great either
It's disgusting that the car co's don't engineer the vehicles to resist rust better. One of the main ways would be to allow for decent drainage even a plug on both ends of the rocker so you can run a hose through there after the winter. Drainage is key and being able to access those cavities conveniently would be great help in keeping cars from rusting so much :)
@@LakesideAutobody is there anything that can be done while installing the replacements to keep that build up from happening? Maybe some access holes or drain spots so the inside could be flushed out and /or coated with something? Thanks!
How much would it be to do that on both sides of a 01 extended cab. Mine are rotted out as well. Just would like to know for reference. Going to hopefully get it done.
@LakesideAutobody I appreciate it man. My brother has a friend that he went to school with that does body work so I was gonna ask him how much he would charge me. I want to get it done badly. Thats the only rust and rot on my truck.
For the cheapest and works perfectly fine - this - ua-cam.com/video/qKTdOQizKbE/v-deo.html - this also works well - ua-cam.com/video/jZikIeH-SWQ/v-deo.html finally if you don't want to buy a tank of gas this - ua-cam.com/video/ic7Gwf8y4Yc/v-deo.html
Usually rockers are 500-1000 or more per side. I never wrote estimates when I worked at shops so I'm not super accurate on quotes. These days I just make videos. I flip cars and trucks, do some freebie jobs, and repair clean title repairable vehicles to keep the videos going.
Glad you asked because I was thinking of doing another vid on it - here's one that explains that from a while ago - ua-cam.com/video/ZgAA4PD8EUs/v-deo.html
@@LakesideAutobody hey man just wanted to say that it’s awesomely that you take the time to reply to your viewers comments. 🙏 🙏 Appreciated more than you know.
Great video , thanks for sharing. I have some rusted out rocker panels on 2014 Ram . I took it to a body shop to get an estimate to have it repaired . The owner told me it wasn’t worth it fixing or replacing the rocker panels . And it was too much labor . They would have to take the box off the truck to replace the panels .
Is it not necessary to fully weld a panel in, meaning; is the spot weld sufficient to hold it? I have a 2010, needing rockers and cab corners. Considering doing it myself. Ranger Sprocket
My 2000 F-150 Supercab has the same issue. Rocker panels on both sides rusted away. Can you give us a rough idea on what a garage might charge for doing this job for both sides?
A low estimate might be around 500 a side. The rocker panel itself is 150, paint right around 100, plus labor - average = 80/hr. You can see the cost rise pretty quickly because of the time for labor.
So for protection on future rust i see people put weld primer or some sort of primer than paint or use a undercoating like yourself what would you recommend is better i need help before i buy some 😅
The only thing you need to stop future rust is make sure the panel can drain and dry out inside - even add drain holes if needed - and this - ua-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/v-deo.html Watch this too if you're interested - ua-cam.com/video/y05dNxt-nVc/v-deo.html
@@mccoyji Here's just a few - there's more info in the rust repair playlist - ua-cam.com/video/d21RkqTwRqs/v-deo.html ** ua-cam.com/video/aSVkIDWHrGk/v-deo.html ** ua-cam.com/video/92mr0C62tq0/v-deo.html ** ua-cam.com/video/fSTkMkPryPQ/v-deo.html ** ua-cam.com/video/y05dNxt-nVc/v-deo.html
Get a MIG welder - you'll like it. I suggest Miller MIGs if you have $. If not, this one welds just like it. Miller is made in USA and Italy I think - Arc Captain MIG200 in China.
Hey man, I’ve got a 2008 ford e350 that has really bad rust. Rockers all the way around, wheel wells, floor board, bed and some minor frame rust. Where do you get your rocker pieces? I’ve been to a few websites to find my pieces but they don’t look like mine. It says that’s the year/make/model it the body lines are different. Realyyy don’t want to cut all those pieces out at a junk yard if I don’t have to. Got any tips on where to find body/frame pieces like you have there?
millsupply.com or raybuck.com Here's an example of what you may need - raybuck.com/product/1992-12-ford-van-side-cargo-doors-rocker-panel-passenger-side/
REALLY HOPING for a reply..... Where were you able to find replacement panels for this? I have a 10th gen F150 I'd like to do this to, but cannot find any panels. Also, do you happen to know anyone who makes a frame repair/support kit for this year truck as well? Thank you so much. Great video. Big thumbs up!!
Thank you for the videos. I have a 2003 Honda Element that just failed the safety inspection due to rusted out rockers, etc. I have had the car for 20+ years and hate to give up on it. The dealer prices are too high for the parts and/or repair. Can you recommend any aftermarket places to get decent panels at a good price? I see some for American cars, but not much for the Element. Thank you
To tell you the truth... when I worked for various body shops, they never ordered rust repair panels for any car that was rusted. You were to find an old panel out back and cut some sheet metal out of it and make your own panel. If you can't find premade, you can get creative and make your own out of 22 or 20 gauge sheet. Like this - ua-cam.com/video/Jk29avqnVXI/v-deo.html You can purchase sheet metal at places like or other local metal supply places - www.alro.com/
I had been wondering about cutting out the rust and getting some 14 gauge square/rectangular tubing and welding it to whatever good metal might still be there for structural stability - It is pretty bad. Then maybe using 20 gauge to reshape the outside. Thank you.
Sounds like it would work. The key to longevity of the repair is drainage. The rocker panel rusted because moisture and debris got trapped in there and stayed wet all the time. Pipes or tubing would fix that for sure. @@aodissue2104
What is that air gun attacment called? It looked like a scraper? That thing looks like a real time saver! And the what was the other airtool attachment that nibbled out a straight line on the rear corner? Thanks!! Youre video eas great
The first one you mentioned is this - shop.snapon.com/product/Sheet-Metal-Rippers/Air-Hammer-Sheet-Metal-Ripper/PHG51B The other is just a die grinder with a cut off wheel - they are listed in the description or under the description of the video :)
Hi there. Thanks for the video. What's your opinion on fully welding the seam vs leaving it spot welded like you did? Any difference in longevity? It would seem that moisture would be able to get into the areas that are not welded from behind?
My boss used to make us put the welds right next to each other so there's no gap. Obviously you'd cheat here and there, fill it and be done but there weren't any comebacks. I really think the filler - especially if you use fiberglass reinforced for your first coat and knock the seam down - seals the seam. Also if it's going to rust again, it's going to start at the bottom of the panel where the water and debris gather. It drains and stays dry up high. Honestly, I've never noticed a difference one way or the other. Here's a follow up video on these methods that may interest you - it's still fine today too - ua-cam.com/video/gIS1Tbv7Kvw/v-deo.html
I should have asked. Have you encountered having to replace the inner panels? I bought some for my 2000 F150. Mine are ate out. Will I have structural issues removing the inner? Thanks.
With inner panels you can cut out the rust and just weld what you think will suffice. Here's an example of sort of cheating but I like having a lot of drainage - check this video out at 5 minutes and 8 seconds in - ua-cam.com/video/2vEPQimW564/v-deo.html
Always injoy waching your videos I have been watching your channal for some time now you give good information and keep it simple glad I was recommended your channal by farraway thank you jerry for giving me that confident stay safe
Hey Husky it's been real nice knowing you for that time too - a real pleasure reading your comments. That's very cool of Farraway to recommend the channel too - I'll have to thank them. Happy New Year my friend :)
Anything that can penetrate that pinch weld at the bottom and stay greasy or waxy will do the trick. I did buy a gallon of FF and plan on doing a video with it.
Hi jerry I just started repairing the rust on the bedsides of my 1996 dodge diesel. I am wondering what you use for stripping paint down to bare metal? I used a 80 grit flap disc on the grinder and it made my metal wavy. Im hoping I can use some high build primer to cover that up. Thanks.
@@victorrodrigues1101 You can do either - it is up to you. What ever is more efficient and the best quality for the situation. This video may help with that decision - ua-cam.com/video/JIIonJOVro4/v-deo.html
Use filler if you are absolutely sure there will not be shifting of metal. Where there may be expansion of shifting or the possibility of cracking use seam sealer :)
I've never used them before but I'm thinking of doing a video on them some day soon. I'm sure they have their place and can make the car/truck look a lot better :)
Too many body shop focus on collision work and miss out on helping customers keep their vehicles in service longer. Great content again.
Thanks 👍 You're right - not many shops will do this type of work anymore :)
Yep. They’re interested in swapping out parts for quick insurance money. I tried to get a truck with little rust and minimal dents re painted. None of my local shops would fool with it or wanted a ridiculous price to cover what they would miss doing collision repair.
Helping doesn't keep business doors open
I watched your video just before I replaced my GMC Sierra rocker panels and lower cab corners; to see the correct way to do the job and build up my confidence. Space between the rear of the cab and the bed was too narrow to MIG weld, so I cheated. Did not want to remove the bed to facilitate welding. I welded what I could around the rear of the cab corner, then used adhesive to hold the sheet metal together. I feathered the edge with some bondo to blend it in. Not perfect but good enough for a 17 year old work truck. My neighbors were wowed. More importantly my wife thinks it looks great. It is infinitely better than it was.
You're the man! That's great to hear. With a little practice here and there, you'll always have nice vehicles. Thanks for the story Mr. Frank.
Best part is its probably paid off too
Love your videos. As a driveway DIY'er , you've given me a lot of confidence that this kind of work is doable. Thanks. JG
Thanks Jay - glad you like the videos my friend. Have a good weekend :)
That is a great video! These rockers are so common to rust out. I think every DIY garage guy would double his repair confidence level by watching this tutorial. The used motor oil or a fluid film type product is the key to making it last!!
Thank you!!
You're welcome Chris - you're right about the fluid film - looking for a way to thin that fluid film to spray it - got any ideas?
@@LakesideAutobody I’ve been using the bar and chain oil and a touch of diesel fuel to thin it. Got that idea from mustie1. Also great videos
@@andylong5432 Thanks for the idea Andy. For some reason the oil thinned with mineral spirits sounds flammable but I can spray it on a scrap piece of metal and literally hit it with a torch and it doesn't light up. I'll try your recipe one time and see how it goes :)
@@LakesideAutobody have you tried warming the oil before spraying to thin it. Seems like that would work well.
@@dp1381 I haven't but I'll give it a try one time - it'd be nice if it worked :)
This is the exact video I needed, going to do the rockers on my 2000 F150 in the spring.
Thanks for all the helpful tips....we males love visual aids.
You're welcome - feel free to ask any ?s when you get started :)
@user-it2cs6hq2y how did it go for you? Also planning on doing this on my 08 f150 i just bought off someone that has some rusty rockers.
I was going to ask how the replacement went also. I need to replace both sides, inner and outer rockers on my 99 F 150.
That's real talent. I was fascinated watching this guy take care of what is the scourge of every vehicle owner in New England. I wish I knew someone like this locally.
Thanks Bruce. The car companies sure are glad there is snow 😊
Great video! Even though there are thousands of us out here who simply want you to perform this transformation on our trucks.
Thanks Doc K - Happy 🎄🎅🎉's
It’s great learning a lot when I help my husband in the shop
I have no plans on doing a rocker panel replacement anytime soon but I found this video very interesting.
That's good to hear my friend - have a good weekend :)
I just got a 2004 Excursion from Minnesota delivered today. Bought it sight unseen. Well, the pics didnt show the rocker panels rusted up pretty bad, just like the ones in your video. I was pretty upset when I first saw it. I've been watching videos all day and at 3AM, I come across yours. Well Sir, you make it look easy. I dont have a shop, but im pretty handy with the tools i have and after watching your video, im pretty sure I can give it a go. So thank you very much for the video. I will save it to come back to when Im ready. Much appreciated! liked and subscribed!
Thanks for subscribing. I have a lot of rust repair videos - ua-cam.com/play/PLOP9eoG14-I-qu68_805bZaOnmkdlv6Ys.html Feel free to ask ?s if you have 'em. Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody thank you, I'll check them all out.
Amazed you got that off without removing the bed
Pretty nice, I did both sides on my 2003 f150 supercrew and almost the same process but I used my dremel for the seem cuts, it makes a pencil tip cut and very thin to fill. But when I fitted the new to the old one I used magnetic tape, 3 pieces. 1 for each end and 1 in the middle. It contors to the piece and no mistakes can be made. Came out perfect. I took lots of pics but I should made a video. Each side took 1 weekend. And used Eastwood products for sealing inside n out
Sounds like it turned out real nice. Those rockers didn't drain too well and rusted out quick. Have a good weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody I used Eastwood Por-15 and coated rockers inside n out, that stuff hardens like a rock
@@bbcala9719 Thanks for that info Bb :)
Great video! I am the proud original owner of my 99 F150 that hasn't a scratch on it but has the dreaded rocker panel rot. I'm planning to do outer and inner rockers and the front lower patch panels on the bed for a rust free truck once again. Next year it qualifies for historic plates and it will be the nicest 99 on the northern Michigan roads!
If I see one that's perfect up here (northern MI) - it just might be you :) What color?
@@LakesideAutobody It's that sky blue Teal that was on the 99-2000 trucks. Looks sharp even when dirty which it never is...
Outstanding. From what I gather not an easy job that just anybody can do. Looks as good as factory & in reality its probably better. Keep em coming!
Thanks my friend - I appreciate the support. Always good to hear from you - have a good weekend :)
What he does in a day would take me months! But now I know how if I ever want to take this on. Thanks Jerry!
You're welcome JW - glad you enjoyed it. Have a good end of the week :)
Sweet job! Fine craftsmanship, as always. Thanks for showing us how it’s done.
Thanks Fireship1 - always good to hear from you my friend :)
SUBSCRIBED!
The more I'm recollecting the damage on my 1999 Toyota Solara: rust is on What's called the "Hinge Pillar". The hinge pillars are approximately the first sixth of the rocker panel length. It is also a discontinued part.
Is there some flat stock that could build up that part on the car where the jack stand would go: right where the checkstand pinchweld is it's just collapsed inward and upward.
I'm impressed with the panel fit, too.
It worked out well - thanks for checking it out :)
Looks great! Now you just need too do the rest of the rusty old Ford. Really enjoy your videos! Thumbs up! 👍
Thanks 👍 my 357 - glad you like them - have a good weekend :)
Great job Jerry you make it simple and easy enough for anyone to follow and do!
Thanks UPK - Have a good weekend my friend :)
@@LakesideAutobody have a good weekend Jerry!
Thanks for sharing your skills and time. Rockers are always a challenge to fit properly. You aced this one. Wishing you and Yours the best of the season.
Happy Holidays to you and your family too Ray Bann - glad you liked the video and you're welcome :)
Keep up the cracking videos these skills need passed on as more people need too be saving old cars as new electric ones are garbage! Miss my days restoring old classic minis!
Thanks for the comment - like that word "cracking". You're right about the electric cars - seems far fetched to me - like the driverless cars. An engineer for Delphi told me in 2012 that we were going to be driverless by 2018 😄😄😄
Why not spray weldable primer behind that rocker where it’s completely bare steel?
It's actually better to treat the repair for rust after all the work is done. There will be bare metal spots around the weld when using that type of primer. See this video for an easier and longer lasting solution. ua-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/v-deo.html
Hi Jerry! I took note of that Mill Supply company where you got the replacement rocker. The local place where I used to order panels did a "restructuring" thing (pre-covid) and their prices have skyrocketed.
Noticed you're using some Bench Mark Abrasives. I've been trying them too. Used a 40 grit flap disc to sharpen 3 beat up mower blades yesterday. I will easily get the other 3 done today with the same disc. Seems to be good stuff! I may try some of their resin fiber discs next
I love their stuff - good quality, fast shipping , reasonable price. Merry Christmas my friend and thanks for always watching and supporting - really appreciate it :)
👍🏻Nice Job!!! You have to love replacement panels. Most of the stuff I do there is no replacement panel and everything has to be fabricated.
Thanks! 👍 Yes replacement panels are nice. When I worked at my first job we never got to use replacement panels. Everything was made by hand like you said - or with filler :)
Almost like you 'd done that once er twice !!
Nice Work sir !
Thanks my friend :)
I saw you semi butt weld like Eastwood’s crimper players and it seams to me a good alternative to a true but weld. I would like to see a video on how to stabilize the rust between panels and how to blend seam sealer in roof gutters? Thanks for the video.
Great work brother.
Thanks my friend :)
Nice repair Jerry! 👍
I never have an easy time getting dark metallics like that to blend in well.
Have a good weekend and a Merry Christmas. 🎄
Hope you have a good Christmas too Jim - thanks for the support as always :)
Beautiful - work of art.
Thanks Bruce - have a good weekend - Happy Easter :)
Awesome job and two thumbs up on the used motor oil rustproofing. 👍👍
Thanks RJB - Happy Holidays to you and your family :)
Your not concerned with the weld not going all the way across?
Is that not really needed?
I always worry about any little pin holes!
Thanks for all your videos I learn a lot from you!
Not concerned at all. From my experience, the only place this rocker panel will begin to rust again is at the very bottom where water and moisture will gather. If you allow the rocker to drain well and squirt some old motor oil inside after you paint to coat that lower pinch weld, you'll be fine. Don't worry about putting the welds right on top of each other - if the patch is going to rust again it will start at the bottom not a seam up higher unless the panel can't drain and fills with wet debris, leaves, dirt, etc. Hope that helps a bit - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody thanks a lot I really appreciate your videos and your insight!!!
@@andylong5432 You're welcome Andy :)
I was going to ask the same question, good point about it rotting bottom up. How about strength though? Any real difference between spots and continues weld?
@@Squintanditsmint The spot welds will be plenty strong. I don't think there would be any reason to try a continuous weld anywhere on the panel. Hope I answered your ? - if not ask again - Jerry
Great job! I have trimmed ends down at a angle if old metal was solid, made easier with door on for a chevy
Thanks for the support and tips David - Happy Holidays to you and your family :)
Great video it helps me learn tricks i have saved ton s doing
My own work really
Enjoy !
That's great to hear Jim - makes my day. Happy Holidays and have a good weekend :)
I’ve done some of these,Dril 3/8 holes on tha lip,clamp it,then weld holes up !
Excellent work, terrific communication skills, wonderful video footage. That's a nice color truck by the way.
I'm working on it for a friend. It only has 62,000 miles on it :)
Just got through removing my drivers side rocker on the jeep. Lots of spot welds to drill… and about half we’re gone since the bottom of the inner and outer panels have already gone to be with the Lord. It’s tedious and time consuming. The little spot weld cutters from harbor freight go fairly quickly. I used 4 on the side. I’m thinking I’ll be back in there soon to do the inner panel and floor pans. It’s kind of therapeutic!
It is very therapeutic. I don't mind drilling out welds. It's nice when the panel finally falls off 👍
Awesome camera work on the spot weld close ups! Im sure that is very time consuming getting them shots? Great work making it all look easy 👍
Thanks for the nice comment Jason :)
This is great. I just did a complete frame off resto to my 96 Dakota bumper to bumper, looks brand new now. Body work, which it doesn't need much at all, I won't attempt. That's definitely not my cup of tea. If I can find someone around here who does a hell of a job like you, I'll gladly pay them.
I like those old Dakotas - real tough, good looking trucks. Good luck and let me know when it's finished - would love to see some pictures. schoolvideolibrary at gmail dot com - Jerry
Excellent video again! Just brilliant! I love the way you're videos are to the point easy to understand, see what you're doing well explained not overly drawn out but have all the details you need at the same time! Spot on!
Cheers from London England 👍😎🏴
Thanks so much A BC. That means a lot to me actually. Cheers to you from Lake St Helen, Michigan :)
So glad I found your channel. You are awesome
Thanks for the support Philip - glad you found it too :)
Could you have installed the rocker with 3m 8115/6 adhesive? Thanks.
Here's the same rocker done with glue - ua-cam.com/video/W9czvb2rFqY/v-deo.html I sure you could use 3M panel adhesive too - even JB Weld - ua-cam.com/video/wRl1QfkrBeY/v-deo.html - this repair is still good today :)
Do you happen to have video for 1948 - 1952 rocker panel replacement or repairs?
I don't but one thing to remember is that almost all rocker replacement is the same. So by watching this video, you should have a really good idea of what has to be done with any rocker repair :)
Thanks. See our R/H rocker panel forward end, area of cowl panel and rocker panel is badly corroded. I’ve cut the rotted rocker area and used the rocker panel aft of the door hinge to shape an 18 gage piece and trimmed it to fit the removed rotted area. However the fit is not perfect but I’ll be able to weld it into place (I hope.) As your experience probably has shown you these model trucks all corrode badly in that area.
Awesome! I like the use of the sand blaster on the welds! I notice sometimes you lap weld and sometimes you will butt weld. Is there times where one is preferred of another?
I just found that you have a video on that! You have great stuff!
In the body shops I've worked at most guys would butt weld on areas that can't be tapped down and filled i.e. door edges, rigid rocker panels, a,b,c pillars, etc. In the wide open areas that can be tapped down and filled we lapped 😊
@@LakesideAutobody thank you that helps. Keep up the great videos!
@@weloveups831 I appreciate the support WLU :)
How do you keep the lap welds from rusting on the inside of the rocker panels. If you treat it with oil, how many times a year do you need to treat it? Thanks
Dude...Thank you. I'm not a body fender guy but this video gives me the confidence that I can get this done. Subscribed. Now how about the bed panels?
Thanks my friend. Here's the playlist for that truck - there's some good videos on hand made bed panels. I will be doing preformed bed panels on this truck soon too. It needs a couple more spots fixed :) ua-cam.com/play/PLOP9eoG14-I_5orQdo3G4zEQPXmCkaK4K.html
Gotta do this on my 07 f150. Canadian winter are tough on vehicles. Finding panels to cut in are tough and $$. Wish u were my neighbor. Ha. Thanks jerry
You're welcome Darren. The salt on these winter roads really kills a nice truck for sure.
Very nice Jerry. You did a great job of showing how to do it right.
Thanks 👍
Great informative in-depth video Jerry, one job that needs time and patience not for the faint hearted , thanks for sharing your knowledge 👍🏻
Thanks for the support V8man - have a good weekend and Christmas :)
@@LakesideAutobody many happy returns to you stay safe. 👍🏻
Hi! That was a great work! Can I bring my Lincoln Navigator to you?
I only work on my own clean title repairable vehicles or rusty vehicles that I will flip. Actually can't work on "customer" vehicles as the neighborhood has a keen eye on me 🥴
Any thoughts on 1) butt instead of lap welding OR 2) silicon-bronze MIG brazing?
Here's my thoughts on butt vs lap - ua-cam.com/video/JIIonJOVro4/v-deo.html I have never used the silicon-bronze mig welding. Although my dad in his day would braze patches and he did really well with that method. It was pretty common back in the 50's and 60's I think - then came fiberglass cloth and eventually MIG.
@@LakesideAutobody Great discussion of Lap vs Butt in the link! Back in the day everything was done oxy-acetylene and unless you had great skill, you could not manage the distortion of welding - so some people brazed w/ o-a. The SiBr MIG brazing is pretty wild. It's more likely to be watertight and there is much less heat distortion. I've got some Ford Escape dog legs and wheel arches to do and think I'm going SiBr. I also have rockers and not sure about that one.
@@NoferTrunions Thanks for the information NT - I'll look into it - I like the watertight seem 👍 Let me know how it works out for you if you do that :)
How doyou go about gwtting the oil in there? I always wondered about rust inside.
Either the rubber plugs on the back side, up through the drain holes or simply drill 1/8" holes every foot or so :)
Nice, another sweet job.
Thanks Douglas :)
Thanks for showing the prosses. What does something like that cost
You're welcome - it depends a lot on each shop but right around 800-1000 per side 😊
@LakesideAutobody thank you for responding, i appreciate that.Both of mine need to be done. Might not be worth it for my 12 year old 150 that's gonna need a few other things for my Pennsylvania inspection.
How do you do that on a uni-body vehicle without the seam at the top - would you lap weld the entire distance? Also are replacement rockers amenable to either butt or lap welding at the surgeon's discretion or are they formed to fit using a specific installation method. I know they sell flimsy "slip on" panels that are over sized and cover up the whole mess without fixing anything.
Most of the guys (internet, magazines, TV) push butt welding everything but keep in mind that of the over 5000 welds in a new car - not one is a butt weld. If you work in a real body shop you will be lap welding 95% of the time. It is the discretion of the worker as to what weld will work best. Generally butt is for rigid edges and areas that the seam can't be tapped down. If you don't have a seam at the top then, yes, you would butt weld or probably use some type of plug welds but still a lap :)
@@LakesideAutobody So when you have replaced unibody rocker panels you have used preformed rockers that are able to be lapped over at the top and spot welded and then also spot welded at the seam on the bottom? I'm trying to get a specific answer. I bought good quality USA rocker panels but I can find no one to do the work in Virginia Beach on 60,000 mile Ford Contour from the rust belt. Like I'm from another planet to these people. So I have to try to see what I can do myself.
Love these videos and the fact that all the tools and material are listed in description. 💯
Glad you like them Redd - have a good weekend my friend :)
great video one question why do you overlap and not butt weld
Here's a video that can explain it much better than I can here - ua-cam.com/video/JIIonJOVro4/v-deo.html Most professional body shops that still do rust in MI lap weld areas that can be tapped down and filled and butt weld where they can't like rigid areas - rockers, edges, door jambs, etc :)
Thanks for providing this video. I am learning how to tackle my project with a car. I am thinking about taking out my rocker panels. I wonder if it's possible to use hack saw? Even if it takes longer. I am a little nervous about using circular saw. One time I had a piece of jig saw fly over by my head when I installed my cabinets. I like to do things safely.
You can use a hack saw - yes. You can even use a sawzall - think that's how you spell it :) What ever you have that will cut metal - just be safe like you said. Safety glasses and gloves - sorry about the late reply - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks alot for the reply. I watch alot of ur videos. Learned alot.
@@farasmaroge1465 You're welcome - ask as many ?s as you need - thanks for watching :)
Where on mill supply did you get the full piece? I have a 2002 f350 extended cab 8 foot bed.
Try Mill Supply or Raybuck.com
I always enjoy watching your videos my son's supercab rocker is starting to go mostly where the doors latch any ideas on reinforcing that area
I'd have to see it but I'm thinking you could cut that part out, save the part that the threads are on, weld that to new sheet metal and weld that home made part in. Hope that made sense - have a good weekend Tim :)
Thank you for some advice
What would be the cost 2 have this down professionally on both sides combine
Usually around 500-1000/side
Where do you get most of your replacement parts like rockers and cab corners. I plan on replacing mine on 2095 Dodge 2500. Thank you
Millsupply or Raybuck online.
Good information
Thanks
Where can you find replacement rockers, I can’t seem to find them
Raybuck.com or Millsupply.com
Have to do it on my 2012 I was hoping you would have glued it and maybe welded the corners any thoughts on that?
You can glue it if you prefer. I'm doing the other side right now but with impact resistant panel adhesive - basically gluing the rocker in place. If I didn't help you out ask again - where exactly would you want to glue or weld that wasn't shown in the vid? Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody I was looking to glue where it is around the interior, and weld everything else or glue it all? Can you tell me what glue you are using thanks
@@davidmiller2823 I use SEM impact resistant structural adhesive - SEM 39757 - Happy Holidays David
The 2005 Ram has the rocker panels hidden under the closed doors which is awesome. What's not awesome was stamped manufacturing holes in the steel on the inside rockers which they covered with tape! the tape let loose over the years allowing water, ice and salt to rot it. Since the outside rockers look good my temporary fix was lots of scraping/removal/sanding and rust-oleum rust reformer and taped the backside with gorilla tape.....left the drip holes open. It actually looks pretty darn good for a temporary fix. I may buy the inside rocker kit and that's why I'm here. Still haven't installed my wheel wells...After Christmas ;)
Interesting - thanks for your input WKW - letting it drain and dry out is the key for sure. Have a good Christmas my friend :)
Great video! So disappointing that they build these this way. My 2012 expedition is disintegrating. Has about an inch and a half of mud inside the rockers. This is outside what I can do but know I know what to ask to make sure all this is done! The rear wheel wells are not great either
It's disgusting that the car co's don't engineer the vehicles to resist rust better. One of the main ways would be to allow for decent drainage even a plug on both ends of the rocker so you can run a hose through there after the winter. Drainage is key and being able to access those cavities conveniently would be great help in keeping cars from rusting so much :)
@@LakesideAutobody is there anything that can be done while installing the replacements to keep that build up from happening? Maybe some access holes or drain spots so the inside could be flushed out and /or coated with something? Thanks!
How much would it be to do that on both sides of a 01 extended cab. Mine are rotted out as well. Just would like to know for reference. Going to hopefully get it done.
1000/side is a good ballpark figure. Shops vary greatly so shop around. You might not even find anyone to take it on 😒
@LakesideAutobody I appreciate it man. My brother has a friend that he went to school with that does body work so I was gonna ask him how much he would charge me. I want to get it done badly. Thats the only rust and rot on my truck.
Where can I order 4 new door rocker replacement for my 2006 Ford Expedition???
Try raybuck.com or millsupply.com
What type of welder would you suggest for this? Mainly just to spot weld
For the cheapest and works perfectly fine - this - ua-cam.com/video/qKTdOQizKbE/v-deo.html - this also works well - ua-cam.com/video/jZikIeH-SWQ/v-deo.html finally if you don't want to buy a tank of gas this - ua-cam.com/video/ic7Gwf8y4Yc/v-deo.html
@LakesideAutobody thank you! Im looking to replace my inner and outer rocker panels on my F250
You make it look easy but we know better. I'm curious what you would charge for this rocker job?
Usually rockers are 500-1000 or more per side. I never wrote estimates when I worked at shops so I'm not super accurate on quotes. These days I just make videos. I flip cars and trucks, do some freebie jobs, and repair clean title repairable vehicles to keep the videos going.
Hey buddy. In regards to knocking down the welds, how do you know when you have knocked the area down enough prior to filling it?
Glad you asked because I was thinking of doing another vid on it - here's one that explains that from a while ago - ua-cam.com/video/ZgAA4PD8EUs/v-deo.html
@@LakesideAutobody hey man just wanted to say that it’s awesomely that you take the time to reply to your viewers comments. 🙏 🙏 Appreciated more than you know.
@@gimmefuel7268 You're welcome my friend - thanks for watching and the support :)
Great video , thanks for sharing. I have some rusted out rocker panels on 2014 Ram . I took it to a body shop to get an estimate to have it repaired . The owner told me it wasn’t worth it fixing or replacing the rocker panels . And it was too much labor . They would have to take the box off the truck to replace the panels .
Yeah - most shops avoid rust repairs. You're welcome btw. Have a great week :)
Always love to see what you are working on!
Glad to hear it Daniel - Happy Holidays to you and your family - Jerry
Is it not necessary to fully weld a panel in, meaning; is the spot weld sufficient to hold it?
I have a 2010, needing rockers and cab corners. Considering doing it myself.
Ranger Sprocket
The spot weld is absolutely sufficient. You can pull frames using 6 or 7 spot welds + piece of sheet metal :)
@@LakesideAutobody thank you for your response. I’ve watched your work for a long time.
Oh…by the way. I like your new company logos. They look like old patches we used to sew 🧵 on our Jean jackets 🧥 and such. Very cool look. 👍👍
Thanks a lot - I'm glad to hear it - trying to get some hats and t's soon :)
My 2000 F-150 Supercab has the same issue. Rocker panels on both sides rusted away. Can you give us a rough idea on what a garage might charge for doing this job for both sides?
A low estimate might be around 500 a side. The rocker panel itself is 150, paint right around 100, plus labor - average = 80/hr. You can see the cost rise pretty quickly because of the time for labor.
Looking to get new rockers for my 2008 f150. What is the cost for a job like this?
You can expect an average of 1000 per side :)
So for protection on future rust i see people put weld primer or some sort of primer than paint or use a undercoating like yourself what would you recommend is better i need help before i buy some 😅
The only thing you need to stop future rust is make sure the panel can drain and dry out inside - even add drain holes if needed - and this - ua-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/v-deo.html Watch this too if you're interested - ua-cam.com/video/y05dNxt-nVc/v-deo.html
@@LakesideAutobody thanks I will add drain holes and finally use my used oil every year thanks 👍
Looks great
Thanks Plumbucket :)
How about the lower door lip?
Any videos on that?
Great work BTW
Thanks JAI HD - the front door or the rear. What kind of video are you looking for?
@@LakesideAutobody the lip at the bottom of the door. Seems to rust fairly well. Do to water from rain and the salts.
Any videos on the lot?
@@mccoyji Here's just a few - there's more info in the rust repair playlist - ua-cam.com/video/d21RkqTwRqs/v-deo.html ** ua-cam.com/video/aSVkIDWHrGk/v-deo.html **
ua-cam.com/video/92mr0C62tq0/v-deo.html **
ua-cam.com/video/fSTkMkPryPQ/v-deo.html **
ua-cam.com/video/y05dNxt-nVc/v-deo.html
How much a project like this cost? Ballpark? Thanks, nice work!
Around 500-1000 per side. Happy TG ARaps 🍗🥧😊
Good video! Im going to buy a welder soon I guess you're using a MIG welder, But I dont know or is it a Spot welder? Im going to try same fix.
Get a MIG welder - you'll like it. I suggest Miller MIGs if you have $. If not, this one welds just like it. Miller is made in USA and Italy I think - Arc Captain MIG200 in China.
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks for the quick response, and for helping me an everyone else here!!
@@AhrnNilsson You're welcome my friend - have a good week :)
Hey man, I’ve got a 2008 ford e350 that has really bad rust. Rockers all the way around, wheel wells, floor board, bed and some minor frame rust. Where do you get your rocker pieces? I’ve been to a few websites to find my pieces but they don’t look like mine. It says that’s the year/make/model it the body lines are different. Realyyy don’t want to cut all those pieces out at a junk yard if I don’t have to. Got any tips on where to find body/frame pieces like you have there?
millsupply.com or raybuck.com Here's an example of what you may need - raybuck.com/product/1992-12-ford-van-side-cargo-doors-rocker-panel-passenger-side/
Awesome, I didn’t know about mill supply. They’ve got pretty much everything I need. Thanks man, subscribed
@@michaelbacile8439 You're welcome - let me know how your project goes. I love hearing about stuff like that :)
REALLY HOPING for a reply.....
Where were you able to find replacement panels for this? I have a 10th gen F150 I'd like to do this to, but cannot find any panels.
Also, do you happen to know anyone who makes a frame repair/support kit for this year truck as well?
Thank you so much. Great video. Big thumbs up!!
Yes - millsupply.com or raybuck.com
Thank you for the videos. I have a 2003 Honda Element that just failed the safety inspection due to rusted out rockers, etc. I have had the car for 20+ years and hate to give up on it. The dealer prices are too high for the parts and/or repair. Can you recommend any aftermarket places to get decent panels at a good price? I see some for American cars, but not much for the Element.
Thank you
To tell you the truth... when I worked for various body shops, they never ordered rust repair panels for any car that was rusted. You were to find an old panel out back and cut some sheet metal out of it and make your own panel. If you can't find premade, you can get creative and make your own out of 22 or 20 gauge sheet. Like this - ua-cam.com/video/Jk29avqnVXI/v-deo.html You can purchase sheet metal at places like or other local metal supply places - www.alro.com/
I had been wondering about cutting out the rust and getting some 14 gauge square/rectangular tubing and welding it to whatever good metal might still be there for structural stability - It is pretty bad. Then maybe using 20 gauge to reshape the outside. Thank you.
Sounds like it would work. The key to longevity of the repair is drainage. The rocker panel rusted because moisture and debris got trapped in there and stayed wet all the time. Pipes or tubing would fix that for sure. @@aodissue2104
What is that air gun attacment called? It looked like a scraper? That thing looks like a real time saver! And the what was the other airtool attachment that nibbled out a straight line on the rear corner? Thanks!! Youre video eas great
The first one you mentioned is this - shop.snapon.com/product/Sheet-Metal-Rippers/Air-Hammer-Sheet-Metal-Ripper/PHG51B The other is just a die grinder with a cut off wheel - they are listed in the description or under the description of the video :)
@@LakesideAutobody ahhhh I see that now, thanks for answering! I'm gonna tackle this same project this weekend. Your video was the best one I found
Hi there. Thanks for the video. What's your opinion on fully welding the seam vs leaving it spot welded like you did? Any difference in longevity? It would seem that moisture would be able to get into the areas that are not welded from behind?
My boss used to make us put the welds right next to each other so there's no gap. Obviously you'd cheat here and there, fill it and be done but there weren't any comebacks. I really think the filler - especially if you use fiberglass reinforced for your first coat and knock the seam down - seals the seam. Also if it's going to rust again, it's going to start at the bottom of the panel where the water and debris gather. It drains and stays dry up high. Honestly, I've never noticed a difference one way or the other. Here's a follow up video on these methods that may interest you - it's still fine today too - ua-cam.com/video/gIS1Tbv7Kvw/v-deo.html
@@LakesideAutobody Great. Thanks for the reply, Jerry.
Very good job. thank;s Lots to learn.your a good teacher.
You are welcome - thanks for the support :)
Beautiful job well done
Thanks Ed - Merry Christmas 🎄
How much does a job liner that normally run?
Shops charge ~ $500-1000 per side or more.
How much would a body shop charge to do this? A new rocker panel would end up like the old one, how would a person prevent it from rotting away?
These 2 videos will really help answer that ? : ua-cam.com/video/y05dNxt-nVc/v-deo.html - ua-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/v-deo.html
I should have asked. Have you encountered having to replace the inner panels? I bought some for my 2000 F150. Mine are ate out. Will I have structural issues removing the inner? Thanks.
With inner panels you can cut out the rust and just weld what you think will suffice. Here's an example of sort of cheating but I like having a lot of drainage - check this video out at 5 minutes and 8 seconds in - ua-cam.com/video/2vEPQimW564/v-deo.html
@@LakesideAutobody my man...
Always injoy waching your videos I have been watching your channal for some time now you give good information and keep it simple glad I was recommended your channal by farraway thank you jerry for giving me that confident stay safe
Hey Husky it's been real nice knowing you for that time too - a real pleasure reading your comments. That's very cool of Farraway to recommend the channel too - I'll have to thank them. Happy New Year my friend :)
do u do good Samaritan works on people vehicles in u video.
Yes - a few friends and family members :)
I saw fluid film video. Would that beat eng oil?
Anything that can penetrate that pinch weld at the bottom and stay greasy or waxy will do the trick. I did buy a gallon of FF and plan on doing a video with it.
Hi jerry I just started repairing the rust on the bedsides of my 1996 dodge diesel. I am wondering what you use for stripping paint down to bare metal? I used a 80 grit flap disc on the grinder and it made my metal wavy. Im hoping I can use some high build primer to cover that up. Thanks.
This video give you a few options - ua-cam.com/video/OYo3ur2o7Lg/v-deo.html
I think the high build primer will help with that :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks! Happy Holidays!
Excellent video! Would you tell me what filler you use?
I use Auto Body Master lightweight body filler. It's right around $20/gal
Lap weld. Love it
Weld, lightly grind. Love it.
Tap down and fill. Love it.
Thanks PSG - you really are catching up on your YT watching - I gotta get over to your channel - been watching too much football :)
@@LakesideAutobody Yes. I am !
What is the benefit of using a lap weld here and not a butt weld? Would that not mess with the body lines?
@@victorrodrigues1101 You can do either - it is up to you. What ever is more efficient and the best quality for the situation. This video may help with that decision - ua-cam.com/video/JIIonJOVro4/v-deo.html
Seam sealer is so expensive compared to filler. Is it that much better to use that just a coat of filler?
Use filler if you are absolutely sure there will not be shifting of metal. Where there may be expansion of shifting or the possibility of cracking use seam sealer :)
How do you feel about the slip over rocker panels have you ever used these.
I've never used them before but I'm thinking of doing a video on them some day soon. I'm sure they have their place and can make the car/truck look a lot better :)