Ive got a G20, gen 5 & its the worst jammomatic i ever had w full power loads. Shoots the regular underpowered junk just fine but mines for bears & a full power jammer is NOT acceptable. The recoil spring is cheaply made & weak for a 10mm. The new trigger still sucks too. 7 lb. Watched " glock talk " & did the " $.25 trigger job" Lenny showed which did smooth out the trigger a bit but its still 7 pounds. Got the " Overwatch minus connector" thats suppost to reduce the pull , smooth the trigger pull & add a more tactile reset. Once installed the trigger didnt work at all. Pulled fully rearward but would not fire. Couldnt drop the slide w/o the trigger pull working. Watched your vid & with the slide locked back, dropped the end plate, removed the firing pin, removed the shell ejector assy & the trigger finally worked & the slide came off. Reinstalled the original oem connector & the trigger worked again. Had already installed the DPM springs & used the 22 lb assy & that cut the jamming factor down to only 1 per mag as vs the 3-4 with the cheap factory spring. This vid wasnt for the gen 5 but got me close enough to do the job. Prob saved me a big gunsmithing bill & im well pleased. Wont be buying any more glocks thou. My XDM-Es have never failed w anything i feed em & the factory Meta trigger is awesome. Here in Alaska the gen 4s have to be rebuilt as well. 22-24 lb recoil springs & new KKM or lone wolf aftermarket, rifled bbls are standard replacements for reliability w the full power bear loads. The standard glock bbls are blowing out the cartridge cases w the full power loads. Underwood & Buffalo Bore 200, 220 grain hardcasts are the preferred bear thumpers. They WORK. timmney trigger replacements are SOP too but im not spending another $200 to properly rebuild this glock. The proper DPM spring assy alone was $130. On the upside, the new full case support, rifled bbls in the gen 5s are better. No case blowouts ive heard yet. Also, no bad reports on the gen 5 G40s either. Yet. But theyre not near as common as the G20s are. In any case, THANKS! Subbed. 😁
Awesome, glad this helped you some, also just a note, when gen 4 first came out I was swapping the trigger bars with the gen 3 bars to smooth up the action as gen 4 trigger bars have a extra nipple indent on the side where the striker disconnect is located on the trigger bar, that with a smooth and tune on the parts made for a nice trigger pull. I use to have a video on here on how to do a proper smooth and tune on the Glock action, but YT took it down said was not to their guidelines 🤦. You win some you lose some 😂
Very helpful 👍🏿
Glad it was helpful!
Loving this series! Thank you 🙏🏻
I hope we get one for S&W J frames in the future!
@@RayRayWasAGoodBoy will definitely keep that in mind for a video.
Very well done! Thanks!
Thank You, appreciate it.
Ive got a G20, gen 5 & its the worst jammomatic i ever had w full power loads. Shoots the regular underpowered junk just fine but mines for bears & a full power jammer is NOT acceptable. The recoil spring is cheaply made & weak for a 10mm. The new trigger still sucks too. 7 lb. Watched " glock talk " & did the " $.25 trigger job" Lenny showed which did smooth out the trigger a bit but its still 7 pounds. Got the " Overwatch minus connector" thats suppost to reduce the pull , smooth the trigger pull & add a more tactile reset. Once installed the trigger didnt work at all. Pulled fully rearward but would not fire. Couldnt drop the slide w/o the trigger pull working. Watched your vid & with the slide locked back, dropped the end plate, removed the firing pin, removed the shell ejector assy & the trigger finally worked & the slide came off. Reinstalled the original oem connector & the trigger worked again. Had already installed the DPM springs & used the 22 lb assy & that cut the jamming factor down to only 1 per mag as vs the 3-4 with the cheap factory spring. This vid wasnt for the gen 5 but got me close enough to do the job. Prob saved me a big gunsmithing bill & im well pleased. Wont be buying any more glocks thou. My XDM-Es have never failed w anything i feed em & the factory Meta trigger is awesome. Here in Alaska the gen 4s have to be rebuilt as well. 22-24 lb recoil springs & new KKM or lone wolf aftermarket, rifled bbls are standard replacements for reliability w the full power bear loads. The standard glock bbls are blowing out the cartridge cases w the full power loads. Underwood & Buffalo Bore 200, 220 grain hardcasts are the preferred bear thumpers. They WORK. timmney trigger replacements are SOP too but im not spending another $200 to properly rebuild this glock. The proper DPM spring assy alone was $130. On the upside, the new full case support, rifled bbls in the gen 5s are better. No case blowouts ive heard yet. Also, no bad reports on the gen 5 G40s either. Yet. But theyre not near as common as the G20s are. In any case, THANKS! Subbed. 😁
Awesome, glad this helped you some, also just a note, when gen 4 first came out I was swapping the trigger bars with the gen 3 bars to smooth up the action as gen 4 trigger bars have a extra nipple indent on the side where the striker disconnect is located on the trigger bar, that with a smooth and tune on the parts made for a nice trigger pull. I use to have a video on here on how to do a proper smooth and tune on the Glock action, but YT took it down said was not to their guidelines 🤦. You win some you lose some 😂