You could have used a regular rod end with hole all the way through and mounted it under the ball that goes into the top of the knuckle. It would be simple and stronger.
YES. Absolutely agree! And for the ball studs for the inner side of the new link, I would've just taken the screws out that hold the front of the top plate down, and replaced them with the ball studs (instead of drilling a hole in the plate and putting them right behind the screws...). I bet one decent little crash would break all of that mess of a setup he had going there
I recommend using your more than likely existing other barb hole for another turnbuckle rather than placing one on top of another for a sort of cone stabilization effect. As for in your case rc car mods i would just hooked it up to the shock tower, at least that makes more sense, if it turns out to be worse in practice for my ta05 v2 i might have to come up with something else and ill probably come back to post here. But in most cases im guessing people will still be using stock parts which will let them be able to cut the steering block arm down so that they dont have to cut the c hub, but if they wind up needing to cut the hub or are using a non alumnium c hub like i like to, and cut it but cant or dont want to cut their aluminum steering block(mine gives my setup perfect 0 arckerman atm or id not use it) Then youll have the option to double up on the turn buckle like in the vid, use one of the other pre drilled post holes for another buckle, or even drill into the steering bluck or c hub elsewhere if needed for any reason based on what they do and dont cut. I might end up going back to standard steering blocks if the 0 ackerman keeps restricting my steering like it is atm due to the different way i went about my other standard steering mod and how i am planning to do this. Either way its a great vide to help out the community and hopefully i helped shed some light on other options for ppl to help stabilize their steering blocks if needed.
That's quite brilliant! Good job with the work and thanks for sharing the tips. Closeup shots help a lot. I was wondering what you meant by triangle until I saw what you did.
Ey RC ninja! Nice vid this time again, I love it! About half a year ago I made a vid with two friends, one did filming and editing, about drifting with my almost standard traxxas slayer pro, and my friend's heavily race modified traxxas slash. I hope you like it! Ps. The dutch text in the video means something like: the cars crashed into each other, and there was some damage. But luckily, there was still time to drive. I made another video too. Not with drifting, just bashing around. Hope you like it! RC Traxxas Gopro + crash for the drifting video, RC Traxxas Slayer pro 4x4 (Gopro) and this one for the bashing. See you later!
I'm guessing that this is an all drift all the time group, which is cool... I can see this mod for Sedan and Rally racing too. But in that case, what you've just created is - an easy caster adjustment!! 👍👍🍺😎 It looks like just enough for about 1-2 degrees of caster adjustment, + or -. That's pretty clever - I just gotta work on a stronger hub mount.... MAYBE, a Y-type ball joint! Used on Rock Crawler front suspension, it's a single ball joint connector, but with TWO turnbuckles screwed out of it, at roughly a 30 degree angle. Something to think about.......
READ ME Just cut the part that attaches to your tire rod end to give it a bit more angle BUT CHECK YOUR SERVO TO SEE IF IT CAN EVEN GO ANY FARTHER you may end up cutting stuff and your servo can't go any farther so upgrading that will help
By doing what he did, he is now restricting the shock from doing its job. What he did has now made the shock very restricted and will not work properly anymore as long as the part he installed is there. I wouldn’t do this but it was a very good try.
RC Car Mods I agree that most competitions are on flat concrete but I still believe that there could have been some other way of doing it with out restricting the travel of the shock to allow proper use on the suspension travel but I also admit that I do not have either the equipment or enough expertise to make this happen so I do give you props on the mod 👍
I know this is an old video but I hoping you remember what the length of the rods you bought to make the upper triangle? I want to do this to my car but unsure what length rods to buy
i done this to my sakura d3 cs but i am running it as a rwd without the front shafts. i cut one side of the hub to keep the stability but now when i go full lock one way the wheels stick it trys to push the steering knuckle the opposite way need the shaft there to stop it going to far
Hey bro thanks for the detailed video, ive just converted my d3 to rwd, can you tell me if its possible to have the rear diff locked cos im having a heap of trouble trying to dridrive it the way it is (i dont have a gyro either)
i was thinking of buying the Alum Front solid axle for the ta05 v2 they make and throwing it in the back of my ta05 v2 ave been wanting to try a locked diff back there and atm only have a one way in the front and wouldnt attempt giving that up till i got another one in the center. There was another diff that i cant recall the name of for the life of me but it implied it was like a connected or locked diff in a way and looked just like the one way in that it had screws locking it together. I was gonna invest in that over the solid axle and hope that i could get it to work with other pulleys in the back diff with my setup. The thing i have done atm that i want to warn you about is that i tried overtightening my rear diff and even read somewhere that making sure the balls are overly greased up that it will have some what of an effect of a locked rear diff or something more limited like an LSD. Initially it does feel that way too, others have just sait to use the tamiya plastic cement to lock it up but i cant do that either. The reason ive found having an overly tight diff and that you could encounter other problems if your not careful is because atm i can tell my car has more power in my CS setup going to the rear right wheel causing the car to pull to the left even with crazy trim to the right and the wheels visably pointing to the left am i actually able to somewhat stay in a straight line so i know its something going on with that rear diff i tried to get close to locking. It still works normally its just very tight which makes sense on paper but idk if something went wrong or if in practice it just plays out badly. I havent seen a specifically marketed locked rear diff for a belt driven rc car or id tell you about other locking options that ive seen. Sorry i couldnt be of more help and gl with that setup.
Sorry Corey, this is a fairly old vid and I no longer have this setup. Best tip is make sure the top mod is strong, that was always the weakest point and caused some chatter on the drift.
Why didnt you just get a 4mm ball with the hole through it already and a end link eye then put a longer threaded ball joint through it , so it goes directly on top of the original top link arm , saves pissing about with a 4mm drill bit and would look way cleaner
i was gonna say it still helps but i thought he was running CS, even with my measly 1.38 cs till my center one way arrives at least, i can still tell having the big turn radius comes in handy and is worth sharing even if i opted for less radius so i could have parallel steering aka 0 ackerman without any toe out like i have before i do the c hub cuts.
Would it be possible to just cut away one side of the c-hub if the other side has plenty more space? Or would it make it too weak? Right now I have plastic c-hubs, but would either plastic/aluminum work?
Yes it can! Im getting alot of angle with my awd countersteer setup. So im being held back by my driveshafts. For you its a matter of dialing it in after this mod to get better full lock
Nope as I recently made my steering links shorter I think I need to get extra links also need extension arms for my steering links to keep the wheels straight
+RC Car Mods ive got a tamiya tto1-d which is awd and is pretty good. But im a beginner so its good for me. Its a brushless motor and shaft driven. But when i get better and get the money im thinking about getting a sakura d4 rwd i think is what it is
@saxon bolton i have a sakura d4 and it was crap out of the box... it already had aluminum towers and knuckles. I added mono shock, slide wrack, yokomo v4 gyro, xeon camber and anti camber linkages as well as metal gears with a bigger pinion and smaller spur... now the car floats like a dream however it was an additional 200 dollars after the car...
hey rc ninja, i have a quick question is there any way of making a 4 wheel drive rc car to rear wheel drive only ? i have the team associated rtr frs which is shaft driven, there's not many videos out there. please help out an amateur hobbyist and thank you!
Kogiilan Muniandy it dies slightly weaken the suspension but for a flat drift track it is ok. I wouldn't be using this for anything other then drifting 👍
Could have used a little more intelligence and could have filed the c hub to gain the same result. After I watched this video it honestly made no difference whether you leave it alone or ground it down. Kind of a waste of time in my opinion.
Probably just Notch the back side and left the front side of it alone It still give it stability
You could have used a regular rod end with hole all the way through and mounted it under the ball that goes into the top of the knuckle. It would be simple and stronger.
YES. Absolutely agree! And for the ball studs for the inner side of the new link, I would've just taken the screws out that hold the front of the top plate down, and replaced them with the ball studs (instead of drilling a hole in the plate and putting them right behind the screws...). I bet one decent little crash would break all of that mess of a setup he had going there
I recommend using your more than likely existing other barb hole for another turnbuckle rather than placing one on top of another for a sort of cone stabilization effect. As for in your case rc car mods i would just hooked it up to the shock tower, at least that makes more sense, if it turns out to be worse in practice for my ta05 v2 i might have to come up with something else and ill probably come back to post here. But in most cases im guessing people will still be using stock parts which will let them be able to cut the steering block arm down so that they dont have to cut the c hub, but if they wind up needing to cut the hub or are using a non alumnium c hub like i like to, and cut it but cant or dont want to cut their aluminum steering block(mine gives my setup perfect 0 arckerman atm or id not use it) Then youll have the option to double up on the turn buckle like in the vid, use one of the other pre drilled post holes for another buckle, or even drill into the steering bluck or c hub elsewhere if needed for any reason based on what they do and dont cut.
I might end up going back to standard steering blocks if the 0 ackerman keeps restricting my steering like it is atm due to the different way i went about my other standard steering mod and how i am planning to do this.
Either way its a great vide to help out the community and hopefully i helped shed some light on other options for ppl to help stabilize their steering blocks if needed.
Great vid!
That's quite brilliant! Good job with the work and thanks for sharing the tips. Closeup shots help a lot. I was wondering what you meant by triangle until I saw what you did.
Ey RC ninja! Nice vid this time again, I love it! About half a year ago I made a vid with two friends, one did filming and editing, about drifting with my almost standard traxxas slayer pro, and my friend's heavily race modified traxxas slash. I hope you like it! Ps. The dutch text in the video means something like: the cars crashed into each other, and there was some damage. But luckily, there was still time to drive. I made another video too. Not with drifting, just bashing around. Hope you like it! RC Traxxas Gopro + crash for the drifting video, RC Traxxas Slayer pro 4x4 (Gopro) and this one for the bashing. See you later!
this guy seems like a cool dude
Would love to see a video on how to prevent steering lockout 🤘🤘🤘
Good vid,And nice work
Nice video.
so cool
The angle mod or chub Delete id really cool. But I'm sure that's gonna wear down and slowly destroy your servo motor
I'm guessing that this is an all drift all the time group, which is cool...
I can see this mod for Sedan and Rally racing too. But in that case, what you've just created is - an easy caster adjustment!! 👍👍🍺😎 It looks like just enough for about 1-2 degrees of caster adjustment, + or -.
That's pretty clever - I just gotta work on a stronger hub mount....
MAYBE, a Y-type ball joint! Used on Rock Crawler front suspension, it's a single ball joint connector, but with TWO turnbuckles screwed out of it, at roughly a 30 degree angle. Something to think about.......
OldfartRC thanks mate. mainly drifting but moving into other rc so stay tuned.
READ ME
Just cut the part that attaches to your tire rod end to give it a bit more angle
BUT CHECK YOUR SERVO TO SEE IF IT CAN EVEN GO ANY FARTHER you may end up cutting stuff and your servo can't go any farther so upgrading that will help
By doing what he did, he is now restricting the shock from doing its job. What he did has now made the shock very restricted and will not work properly anymore as long as the part he installed is there. I wouldn’t do this but it was a very good try.
Who needs shocks! Sometimes mods work sometimes they don't. We run on pretty flat polished concrete these days.
RC Car Mods I agree that most competitions are on flat concrete but I still believe that there could have been some other way of doing it with out restricting the travel of the shock to allow proper use on the suspension travel but I also admit that I do not have either the equipment or enough expertise to make this happen so I do give you props on the mod 👍
A good idea
I know this is an old video but I hoping you remember what the length of the rods you bought to make the upper triangle? I want to do this to my car but unsure what length rods to buy
Sorry mate I don't. But because they screw in they are adjustable to some extent if that helps.
thanks for u share the video,love u
thanx ☺
i done this to my sakura d3 cs but i am running it as a rwd without the front shafts. i cut one side of the hub to keep the stability but now when i go full lock one way the wheels stick it trys to push the steering knuckle the opposite way need the shaft there to stop it going to far
Hey bro thanks for the detailed video, ive just converted my d3 to rwd, can you tell me if its possible to have the rear diff locked cos im having a heap of trouble trying to dridrive it the way it is (i dont have a gyro either)
i was thinking of buying the Alum Front solid axle for the ta05 v2 they make and throwing it in the back of my ta05 v2 ave been wanting to try a locked diff back there and atm only have a one way in the front and wouldnt attempt giving that up till i got another one in the center.
There was another diff that i cant recall the name of for the life of me but it implied it was like a connected or locked diff in a way and looked just like the one way in that it had screws locking it together. I was gonna invest in that over the solid axle and hope that i could get it to work with other pulleys in the back diff with my setup.
The thing i have done atm that i want to warn you about is that i tried overtightening my rear diff and even read somewhere that making sure the balls are overly greased up that it will have some what of an effect of a locked rear diff or something more limited like an LSD. Initially it does feel that way too, others have just sait to use the tamiya plastic cement to lock it up but i cant do that either. The reason ive found having an overly tight diff and that you could encounter other problems if your not careful is because atm i can tell my car has more power in my CS setup going to the rear right wheel causing the car to pull to the left even with crazy trim to the right and the wheels visably pointing to the left am i actually able to somewhat stay in a straight line so i know its something going on with that rear diff i tried to get close to locking. It still works normally its just very tight which makes sense on paper but idk if something went wrong or if in practice it just plays out badly.
I havent seen a specifically marketed locked rear diff for a belt driven rc car or id tell you about other locking options that ive seen.
Sorry i couldnt be of more help and gl with that setup.
I just put a body clip inside the diff in case i wanted to unlock it later...
Wait how the heck did u get a pin in there and still have it working?
@@sparktite i have no clue either :p
You could take the diff apart clean till there's little to no grease and hot glue all the gears or jb weld but hot glue will do the trick
hey man could i get a detailed look at your steering set up
Sorry Corey, this is a fairly old vid and I no longer have this setup. Best tip is make sure the top mod is strong, that was always the weakest point and caused some chatter on the drift.
What kind of Rc is that? Like what brand is that rc car looking to get one like yours?.
Why didnt you just get a 4mm ball with the hole through it already and a end link eye then put a longer threaded ball joint through it , so it goes directly on top of the original top link arm , saves pissing about with a 4mm drill bit and would look way cleaner
I am also often asked about the sharpening angle in the channel
He called hoc x acto, a sharpie
What kind of axle is that? My car has a stub axle and when i did the C hub delete, the stub axle got in the way.
Sorry, but this is bugging me. THREE MILLIMETRE! THEY'RE M3 FASTENERS, NOT M4!
My apologies for yelling.
What kind of axles are these?
right side wheel keeps turning to the right even after left side has stopped rotating. is that ok?
what cvz are you using? just got a d3 cs and its terrible at full throttle and turning.. wheels are vibrating like crazy
is there a kit to get a bigger steering angle for tamiya tt02???
Not that I know of. But check rcmart.com
what about your UJ's do they lock up because it would be a pain to chop these if you have to turn down the st rate to prevent lockups.
Hey Jack. No probs with the UJ's. Set to just not enough angle to get lock ups. cheers
Nice bro i can tryin
Idont get it...why you want a bigger steering angle...when ur chassis is not rwd
Or not even counter-steer chasis
It is cs (about 1.8) and done for demo purpose.
i was gonna say it still helps but i thought he was running CS, even with my measly 1.38 cs till my center one way arrives at least, i can still tell having the big turn radius comes in handy and is worth sharing even if i opted for less radius so i could have parallel steering aka 0 ackerman without any toe out like i have before i do the c hub cuts.
I thought just for track day reasons
Really any more is always better u ever drove a land cruiser 2 point turn to get in a normal car park
Would it be possible to just cut away one side of the c-hub if the other side has plenty more space? Or would it make it too weak? Right now I have plastic c-hubs, but would either plastic/aluminum work?
your idea is fine, BUT do it with aluminum hubs.
Hye~if sakura d3 and convert to rwd~is this can help the car have a nice angle?
Yes it can! Im getting alot of angle with my awd countersteer setup. So im being held back by my driveshafts. For you its a matter of dialing it in after this mod to get better full lock
Can this work with a red cat racing shockwave
Yes
Could you please make a video on how to make your rc car engine faster if its like a tt01 etc
TubZ gonlogistic faster as in more grip or drift speed etc. Ie some changes on your controller or engine etc?
RC Car Mods engine man
RC Car Mods and grip or drift
is that a TA05 bro ? i have a 4wd TA05 and wana get angle too :)
Was this car awd
this was a countersteer setup.
+RC Car Mods was does that mean and what is good/bad about it. Can you get them in awd
i am taking a 350z body on a lamborghini frame and upgraded batery
Where can I find the aluminum dog bones at really need to convert my rc setup from plastic to full on metal
ray briggs try rcmart or asiatees
Will this work on a vaterra v100 chassis ?
Bro just invest rwd drive if your awd chasis has a censored motor you already have a motor to buil with
I tried cutting away the c Hub their plastic for me and it made my steering lack lustre now
Did you upgrade or secure the connections?
Nope as I recently made my steering links shorter I think I need to get extra links also need extension arms for my steering links to keep the wheels straight
But yes I don't have upgraded C hubs
Whats better. Awd/4wd or rwd. Belt driven or shaft driven
rwd drives is were we are all headed these days. belt is easier to midify is you go with an awd.
+RC Car Mods ive got a tamiya tto1-d which is awd and is pretty good. But im a beginner so its good for me. Its a brushless motor and shaft driven. But when i get better and get the money im thinking about getting a sakura d4 rwd i think is what it is
@@RCCarModsNinja is a hsp flying fish a good beginner car?
@saxon bolton i have a sakura d4 and it was crap out of the box... it already had aluminum towers and knuckles. I added mono shock, slide wrack, yokomo v4 gyro, xeon camber and anti camber linkages as well as metal gears with a bigger pinion and smaller spur... now the car floats like a dream however it was an additional 200 dollars after the car...
hey rc ninja, i have a quick question is there any way of making a 4 wheel drive rc car to rear wheel drive only ? i have the team associated rtr frs which is shaft driven, there's not many videos out there. please help out an amateur hobbyist and thank you!
hi bud sorry for the late reply. if you take the shaft out it will be rwd. need a gyro and a bit if messing around but that is half the fun.
Do you know I can increase steering angle on the tt02?
I saw the yeah racing thing but it’s pretty expensive
3:20 bushings not washers.
Thanks bro you are correct these are referred to as bushings not washers. Cheers.
will it effect the suspension??
Kogiilan Muniandy it dies slightly weaken the suspension but for a flat drift track it is ok. I wouldn't be using this for anything other then drifting 👍
shayp? heeya?
your channel is awesome! but the intro is wayyyy too long
Thanks Bro. I stopped the intros pretty quick after a 50 / 50 response.
u should have just thinned it to the middle
What mean counter steer
009 talalkiller countersteer is when tue back wheels spin faster then the front wheels. It assists with handling and achieves better drift angles.
i subbed
Awesome video! Checkout mine.. I just posted drifting on a frozen pond!
Butchered the shit out of it and gained nothing.
Could have used a little more intelligence and could have filed the c hub to gain the same result. After I watched this video it honestly made no difference whether you leave it alone or ground it down. Kind of a waste of time in my opinion.
Definitely made a difference on my rc. Thanks for watching.
🤣😂🤣🤢🤮
Its more of a mod then a delete! Big difference and let down!
sorry mate. we refer to it as a c hud delete mod lol.
your intro is too long.
The Weird One thanks this is an early vid. See some of the latest ones, its much shorter lol
ok thanks. i just like the angle videos. great video!
What a weak build xD But i got a idea how to make it stronger xD