Yes, I agree. The filling line will be full of air, needs to be purged with refrigerant before connecting to car suction line port to prevent contaminating the system.
I use the same thing on insignia 2010, leave the aircon and engine to run for few minutes, the pressure will go down, even if initially you will fill to max green 40, after few minutes will go down to 25 and you need to fill a little bit.
I just checked the price, its £59 for the gas and £20 for the gauge!! This year! The price to get ur car reconned from halfords is only £59🤔 not sure if it's a deal to DIY
Whilst this a cheap fix it’s like a bodge. It does fill the system properly but you don’t know how much. It’s a bit like dumping your oil, chucking a 5 litre can of oil into your car and not bother with a filter or the correct amount of oil. You didn’t pull and vacuum or check the compressor oil, you also didn’t do a leak test with uv leak dye. To do it properly you need a scale, manifold gauges and a vacuum pump. You also may need to oil to lube the compressor. Depending on the car and age some take the older r12 refrigerant but you used the r134a. The dc5 takes 500/550g but you don’t know if you have overfilled it so it may fail soon. There should be a sticker near the engine with the oil, r134 and how much. Also as you didn’t purge the system or pull and vacuum that can may have dumped air and moisture which will cause a failure.
Yeah - your right - that's the correct way - that kit costs £150 basic one of amazon - And many people just want car con blowing icy cold quickly Using this quick cheap method until I can fork out on proper manifold kit Overall 10/10 for the video
Any refrigerant left in the system over time would still hold pressure.. Just needing topping up.. If the guage showed zero, would indicate a possible leak..
@@moisesjl75 not true the system is a sealed system and should not loose any gas unless there is a leak. 10 % or 15% is still a leak. Here in the u.k it is illegal to charge a system with refrigerant knowing there is a leak and the fines are huge. You must find the leak repair it then a pressure test vac the system down and then charge it with the correct refrigerant
@wadewade6508 a perfect A/C system has no leaks, but there are always going to be very small leakages. corrosion, road debris, rubber lines, etc can all cause microscopic leaks and the loss of air con gas is an expected result as part of the standard lifecycle of a system
FYI to anyone watching this video. If you have used this or a like product, and ever have to take your car to a mechanic for work on the a/c system, make sure you tell them you have used a product like this! They can have additives in them that destroy the seals in the mechanics recharge machine.
Hey ProjectGTR, I will be going back to car reviews in the Summer. For the time being I'm just doing how-to's and preparing for my racing at the end of this month.
Seems stupid its cist him alot more to do it himself and he didn't address the cause of the issue. Don't know why you bother, its cheaper to get someone else to do it and they'll check for leaks and no risk to you in you get any refrigant on you, not matter how slim.
Never turn the bottle upside down! You will flush the system with liquid refrigement and potentially stall the compressor. As we all should no, liquids are incompressible. To rise the pressure in the bottle use a heat gun to slowly heat up the bottle to max. 70 °C.
As you should know pulling the trigger and allowing the gas to escape from the sealed can into the larger volume AC system will change it from a liquid to a gas. Turning it upside down doesn't allow the gas room to expand or an escape path. When they say "rotate from 12 to 3 o'clock position" they're talking about the top of the can, not the bottom. Heating up the can is actual stupidity. Don't do it.
@@illegalopinions4082 sure, letting the liquid phase expand will evaporate the liquid refrigerant into the gas phase. My point here is, that this phase change does not happen instantaneously. It takes time. You can actually see the liquid phase in the sight glass of the high and low pressure fill armature gauge. So, from the can to the armature a large part of the refrigerant is still in its liquid phase. The likelihood is high, that there is still liquid refrigerant left when it enters the car air conditioner system. And when you fill the system and the low pressure port is right next to the compressor, then the likelihood is medium to high, that liquid refrigerant enters the compressor and this is not good! Liquids are incompresible. You should not heat up a full can. Heat the can when the pressure is not enough to allow any left refrigerant in the can to enter the air conditioner system. A safer methods is to suspend the can into hot water.
Pretty pointless "topping it up" It only needs regassing if there is a leak on the system. All this will do is temporarily get it going for it just to leak and lose what you've just put in. Get the leak repaired and problem solved. What's more if you keeping running the a/c with a leak sooner or later the compressor will fail = even more cost
Lexy To both of you, yes I watched the video. I'm not criticising so no need to get upset I'm informing you. A/C refrigerant doesn't just run out or deplete like car oil as a part of its design. It is a sealed, pressure tight system. the refrigerant changes from liquid and vapour phase during operation and will continually cycle indefinitely unless there is a leak. Your car showed in the low and wasn't cooling. As I stated refrigerant doesn't just deplete. The only way it "depletes" is if it escapes the system via a leak. Car ac systems are notorious for leaking on the rubber seals. These deteriorate with age and are the most common cause of a leak. I was just informing you...why not get it pressure tested and repaired? Recharging it for it only to start leaking out again then pay for more refrigerant is silly...but it's your money
B2091 automotive AC does have a natural loss of charge due to the use of flexible hoses, different to say a fridge which is a sealed system, with all solid metal pipework, loss of gas = leak HOWEVER , because the pump is on the engine and obviously that moves independently to the chassis and other pipework ...rubber hoses are used, these naturally leak through there skin, infact its now worse since the move to R134a and do on, compared to R12 that was used because 134a molecules are smaller and can pass through the wall of the pipe over time more easily
This guy really makes it seem easy, very clear instructions and video!! and crucially NO Load music drowning out the commentary, well done !!!
Excellent review, clear and concise. I've gone and ordered the STP Auto Freeze already. Even after 4 years, your review still stands strong.
Brilliant presentation. Thanks for not wasting my time. It was to the point.
Thx for the effort mate, to the point and short, helps a lot of people save a few quid and that can’t be bad 🤘🏻
Good to know that there is such a thing ... never saw it before. Thanks for the video and the explanation on how to use it.
No problem Roy 👍 I've been using it almost everyday and it still blows out ice cold air. Definitely worth purchasing 😊
Well made and professional video
Quick heads up for anyone in the UK: air-con recharge kits and associated products are currently 3 for 2 in Halfords 👍
Great heads up Rob 👍
Thanks
Cheers
Good video. How DIY clips should be. Bravo.
Great video and very well explained. Thanks
Good video easy to follow
Nice video. Great explanation 👌🏻
Simple, easy to follow thank you
Good instructional video!
Well done mate. Thanks for the video. Straight to the point.
Good work, young man. My give it a whirl myself
Cracking video .Cheers pal 😮😊
Is this the new type aircon or older
Excellent review
Also does this stuff have a dye in? Or can you get that separate?
I put the gauge on and it comes in the green filled area does this mean that there is refrigerant in my system ?
Should you have purged the fill line of air before connecting it to the vehicle?
just tap the trigger prior to connecting!
Yes, I agree. The filling line will be full of air, needs to be purged with refrigerant before connecting to car suction line port to prevent contaminating the system.
I use the same thing on insignia 2010, leave the aircon and engine to run for few minutes, the pressure will go down, even if initially you will fill to max green 40, after few minutes will go down to 25 and you need to fill a little bit.
Can you leave the car running for a few minutes with the trigger attached ?
Nicne work, thank you.
Hi just a quick question were can you buy the refill bottle from and the pressure gauge?
Hi in Halfords you can buy keep receipt for next time exchanging gas bottle
Well done you explain it very well go to show other's can do it 👍
How long did this take you in real time?
my aircon ain't working ....the pipes within the engine bay are cold to the touch, but no cold air blowing through the cabin vents??
Where did you get the kit?
Thanks for your video. Dickhead gave me a quote of nearly 500 euro just to regas and ' service system' today. I'll do it myself thanks. Thanks mate
Think I need to do this with my car, my air con recently ran out and it’s roasting hot in there this week with the leather seats 😩
Nice one fella. 👍
Thanks for a great video - top man!
Explained well never done this before so good video
Excellent.
Nice car!
Great video. I've been tempted to buy one of these kits for some time... I guess I should!
You won't be disappointed with this kit Neil (as long as there are no leaks in the A/C system). Otherwise an awesome investment.
Good and informative video
Great vid thanks
hi does this work if you have installed a new compressor? thanks
Note:- this uses R123 refrigerant. Cars manufactured after 2014 must use R1234YF refrigerant and the trigger hose does not the fit the port.
great videos mate. are u in the uk . how much did u pay?
I just checked the price, its £59 for the gas and £20 for the gauge!! This year! The price to get ur car reconned from halfords is only £59🤔 not sure if it's a deal to DIY
Whilst this a cheap fix it’s like a bodge. It does fill the system properly but you don’t know how much. It’s a bit like dumping your oil, chucking a 5 litre can of oil into your car and not bother with a filter or the correct amount of oil.
You didn’t pull and vacuum or check the compressor oil, you also didn’t do a leak test with uv leak dye.
To do it properly you need a scale, manifold gauges and a vacuum pump. You also may need to oil to lube the compressor.
Depending on the car and age some take the older r12 refrigerant but you used the r134a. The dc5 takes 500/550g but you don’t know if you have overfilled it so it may fail soon. There should be a sticker near the engine with the oil, r134 and how much.
Also as you didn’t purge the system or pull and vacuum that can may have dumped air and moisture which will cause a failure.
They never fix the leak so will be back to square one again. I thought these top up bottles were baned now due to the new regulations
Yeah - your right - that's the correct way - that kit costs £150 basic one of amazon -
And many people just want car con blowing icy cold quickly
Using this quick cheap method until I can fork out on proper manifold kit
Overall 10/10 for the video
Great easy to do. Garage charges fortune
2.57 if it's leak free why the need to recharge it???
Any refrigerant left in the system over time would still hold pressure.. Just needing topping up.. If the guage showed zero, would indicate a possible leak..
@@moisesjl75 so if it needs topping up then there is a leak otherwise why would it need topping up
@@wadewade6508 it's estimated that your car permeates between 10 - 15% of gas from the system every year.
@@moisesjl75 not true the system is a sealed system and should not loose any gas unless there is a leak. 10 % or 15% is still a leak. Here in the u.k it is illegal to charge a system with refrigerant knowing there is a leak and the fines are huge. You must find the leak repair it then a pressure test vac the system down and then charge it with the correct refrigerant
@wadewade6508 a perfect A/C system has no leaks, but there are always going to be very small leakages. corrosion, road debris, rubber lines, etc can all cause microscopic leaks and the loss of air con gas is an expected result as part of the standard lifecycle of a system
Crazy money for these now :(
But a cheap vacuum pump off eBay as well. 👍
Your 2 reasons are the same, if there is no gas there IS a leak simple
where did you buy the stuff from?
if you are in the uk you can buy it from halfords
Vai kaj pari plz akta job me
IF YOU ARE GOING TO MAKE A VIDEO DO IT LIKE THIS
FYI to anyone watching this video. If you have used this or a like product, and ever have to take your car to a mechanic for work on the a/c system, make sure you tell them you have used a product like this! They can have additives in them that destroy the seals in the mechanics recharge machine.
Lol no it can't
why do you dont do any car reviews
Yoda is that you?
Jonny Five yeah i know its wrong. but i dont remember how it would be correct. its not my first language lol
Hey ProjectGTR, I will be going back to car reviews in the Summer. For the time being I'm just doing how-to's and preparing for my racing at the end of this month.
Seems stupid its cist him alot more to do it himself and he didn't address the cause of the issue.
Don't know why you bother, its cheaper to get someone else to do it and they'll check for leaks and no risk to you in you get any refrigant on you, not matter how slim.
Shouldn’t be regassing cars without an aircon licence
Never turn the bottle upside down! You will flush the system with liquid refrigement and potentially stall the compressor. As we all should no, liquids are incompressible. To rise the pressure in the bottle use a heat gun to slowly heat up the bottle to max. 70 °C.
Use a heat gun are you crazy?
As you should know pulling the trigger and allowing the gas to escape from the sealed can into the larger volume AC system will change it from a liquid to a gas. Turning it upside down doesn't allow the gas room to expand or an escape path. When they say "rotate from 12 to 3 o'clock position" they're talking about the top of the can, not the bottom.
Heating up the can is actual stupidity. Don't do it.
Heat up a pressurised container full of refrigerant to 70⁰c 😂😂😂😂😂
LOL😂
@@illegalopinions4082 sure, letting the liquid phase expand will evaporate the liquid refrigerant into the gas phase. My point here is, that this phase change does not happen instantaneously. It takes time. You can actually see the liquid phase in the sight glass of the high and low pressure fill armature gauge. So, from the can to the armature a large part of the refrigerant is still in its liquid phase. The likelihood is high, that there is still liquid refrigerant left when it enters the car air conditioner system. And when you fill the system and the low pressure port is right next to the compressor, then the likelihood is medium to high, that liquid refrigerant enters the compressor and this is not good! Liquids are incompresible.
You should not heat up a full can. Heat the can when the pressure is not enough to allow any left refrigerant in the can to enter the air conditioner system. A safer methods is to suspend the can into hot water.
Pretty pointless "topping it up" It only needs regassing if there is a leak on the system. All this will do is temporarily get it going for it just to leak and lose what you've just put in. Get the leak repaired and problem solved. What's more if you keeping running the a/c with a leak sooner or later the compressor will fail = even more cost
B2091 Did you even watch the video?....
I doubt he did Lexy. It's a shame as a lot of effort goes into these videos and for someone to just criticise me like that is silly.
Lexy To both of you, yes I watched the video. I'm not criticising so no need to get upset I'm informing you. A/C refrigerant doesn't just run out or deplete like car oil as a part of its design. It is a sealed, pressure tight system. the refrigerant changes from liquid and vapour phase during operation and will continually cycle indefinitely unless there is a leak. Your car showed in the low and wasn't cooling. As I stated refrigerant doesn't just deplete. The only way it "depletes" is if it escapes the system via a leak.
Car ac systems are notorious for leaking on the rubber seals. These deteriorate with age and are the most common cause of a leak.
I was just informing you...why not get it pressure tested and repaired? Recharging it for it only to start leaking out again then pay for more refrigerant is silly...but it's your money
B2091 automotive AC does have a natural loss of charge due to the use of flexible hoses, different to say a fridge which is a sealed system, with all solid metal pipework, loss of gas = leak HOWEVER , because the pump is on the engine and obviously that moves independently to the chassis and other pipework ...rubber hoses are used, these naturally leak through there skin, infact its now worse since the move to R134a and do on, compared to R12 that was used because 134a molecules are smaller and can pass through the wall of the pipe over time more easily
And I might add, car manufacturers now normally recommend a top roughly every 2 years.
most excellent
Awesome video thanks