By the time this guy gets through stumbling around with his words, over complicating the simplest of task and going off in left field talking about off subject topics, he can make a 20 minute job and stretch it out to an hour or more🙄
As a 58 year old who only recently took an interest in guns beyond just buying it off the shelf and shooting it. I just wanted to say I appreciate the calm and level headed "don't get your panties in a bunch" approach you bring with your instruction. Thanks for the valuable work you are doing here.
You should always dimple the barrel for the gas block. Even if you are pinning it. It ensures the port on the barrel and the port on the block are perfectly aligned. It also holds it in perfect alignment for the pinning process.
I bedded a 6.5 Grendel criterion barrel on an AR15 after shooting maybe 220-240 rounds. Group sizes shrunk down and it became more consistent in the 0.5-0.6” range. It seemed immediate as well. But it was also was my first build so you know maybe there are plenty of other reasons it got better.
This is awesome. I personally have a rule for bedding the extension I refer to as the "hotdog in a hallway" rule. If the fit is extremely sloppy I will use stainless steel shim stock to tighten it up. If it's reasonably snug I won't do anything. If I can thermal fit, I'm super happy.
At 18:45, I just took a class on material properties for my engineering degree and I would suggest 35 ish ft-lbs would do very little to reduce the diameter of the barrel extension. That being said, what you said before about the surface mate between the barrel flange and the barrel extension shoulder from the barrel nut would certainly help reduce or theoretically eliminate any play between the barrel and the receiver. Cool video 😁
Regarding bedding, and why it’s unnecessary, I have an Aero M5 build with a Rainier Ultramatch .308 barrel. The barrel to upper fit is a bit on the loose side. Not horrible, but certainly not tight. I torqued the barrel nut appropriately, and with match ammo I get sub minute groups, as good as half minute. So I totally agree with Caleb on bedding being unnecessary.
It should be done vertically with the weight of the lapping rod only and spun with your fingers only. Using a drill he pretty much sanded that face down too much. I’d love to mic the size before and after
I use to do it that way too, but I never saw any difference doing it the way Caleb did..Why do you think he lapped the face too much??Looked fine to me...@@KamalasVACANTwomb
He showed exactly how much material was coming off each time, don't see any issues with how he did it. The lapping rod rides in the receiver bolt guide surfaces and is normally very snug as was the case here. The face was lapped flat without excess material gone.
Learned a few things, all my AR no lapping was done or checked. On the rail installation. I recommend putting a picatinny riser over the point where the upper meets the hand guard. Reason is it will true up the rails and be secured in that orientation. I would hope milling is good one maker another, but you never can say for sure. I would have dropped an inch on the hand guard to give easier access to adjustment of the gas block.
Very timely as I'm interested in building my own competition quality ARs in 5.56, 6MM, 6.5 Grendel, 6.5 Creedmore and 7.62 X 51. Barrel lengths and optics are decisions as well as costs. Going to be fun.
Most torque wrenchs shouldn't be used to loosen a fastner. Also do you guys really recommend the wheeler upper receiver vice block for this work? Doesnt it put a ton of stress on the upper tabs?
That’s kind of what I was thinking watching the vid. My torque wrench instructions say not to do that. I also use an action rod for torquing the barrel nut. And I don’t torque my muzzle devices. But I’m no expert, just a wannabe.😅
I would be using a URR so barrel is not shifting extension pin to one side of receiver when tightening nut. If the extension pin shifts slightly, your bolt and extension will have premature wear
I use a Bev Block or reaction rod so you don't put pressure on the upper while torquing the barrel nut, and the muzzle device. You can bend the upper if you don't use one.
Thanks brother. That was, by far, the best AR build video I have seen yet. Subbed, going to watch part 2 now. Seriously, that was just perfect, you really taught me some things.
You can definitely see it angling down as it enters the upper receiver. Everything I've read about them states they all use straight gas tubes. He should have installed his BCG prior to securing the gas block and he should have used a reaction rod before torquing the barrel nut.
Can't beat thermal fit. Barrel goes in the freezer, upper receiver gets warmed by heat gun. Quick slide together. Super tight and right. Works MUCH better and easier with barrel stored for a few hours in the freezer. It WILL end up with condensation, however.
Thermal fits are so awesome!In my experience with thermal fit uppers and lapping it with the Brownells tool is a no go. They are tight for a reason and the tool will not seat, wouldnt even go a 1/16 of the way in. So thats a heads up if anyone is wanting to lap a thermal fit be warned. Now that being said, different companies and dimensions are key so it still could work. If the tool wont fit, Id just say dont force it. Never had to put the barrel in the freezer, even thought I get the shinking property when cold etc etc giggity. Few hot seconds like 3-5 seconds with a light torch, butane or map gas and done. Please dont be that person that holds it in on 1 spot above the flame till it melts in your hand. You got to rotisserie that bad boy and dont hesitate.
@@rifleshooterchannel208 Very nice explanation. What's you explanation for the many MANY experts who have confirmed that a tighter fit enhances accuracy. Experimental results trump ALL theory.
@@rifleshooterchannel208 A good video from my point of view is "Building Match Grade AR-15s" from channel FUNshootVideo. He has spent a long lifetime accurizing the AR-15. I don't ignore recommendations from people who truly have TREMENDOUS experience. But sure, it could be tested; personally I don't feel the need. (Note: he talks about shims and over-sized extensions. Someone mentioned thermal fits, and he responded in comments that he agrees (and agrees with Joe Carlos)
I lapp and bed anything i want exceptional accuracy from in the ar platform. In some cases it may not be necessary but i do it regardless and i have had Ar15/Ar10 that have shot under .5 moa at 100yds some a good bit under! Not saying your wrong but im saying im sticking to what works for me consistently well. I also make sure gas tube is centered and free from binding. I also modify lower extension
I always enjoy these “do it yourself” videos. I often notice that at least one seemingly significant step is referenced but not covered. In this case you mention that you will use a bore scope before drilling the barrel. This seems like something we should see and a significant step. I’m guessing you’ll say this step is in another video so, if that is true, maybe a link inside the video would help for such a seemingly significant step? If the step isn’t in another video, would you consider making one? I do appreciate the content.
@@brownellsthank you for the video showing the bore scope in action. Is there a video where you show the next step of “how to drill the barrel” as referenced in the original content? I’m not sure I understand how to drill an “undimpled” barrel without damaging the barrel. Thank you again for your very helpful content. I do appreciate these videos.
Very nice detailed video. One point of contention is the Torque Wrench needs to be inline with the barrel nut and muzzle device wrench. You wont get accurate torque measurements when it is at 90 degrees.
Not true. When using a torque adapter, to achieve the actual torque that the wrench is set to the adapter must be at 90° so you are not changing the length of the torque wrench. If you extend the adapter straight out you are extending the length of the torque wrench, increasing leverage and adding more torque than the wrench is set to. If you want to use the adapter straight out you can calculate a decreased torque setting for the wrench by figuring out what percentage you're increasing the length of the wrench.
I've met people that knew something about guns and has said they know how to build ar15's but have never done it. If they say they have they bought a complete upper and lower and mated them together and called it " A build". Changed the furniture to magpul and put a red dot and it was " Customized ". Put a novelty ejection port on it and called it " one of a kind". Then I asked them what brand of AR do they have and its a " M16 it's got a full auto bcg" Im glad to know that thier are soo many gunsmiths that know what they are doing. Which reminds me about the guy I met that had a " milled" receiver Ak47, but had rivets all over it. So I asked him who told him it was a " milled " receiver. Quote "ITS A MILLED RECEIVER BECUASE I BOUGHT IT AND I KNOW WHAT I BOUGHT "
Overall decent video. I would have went a different way with a few parts, but it is what it is. The most important things of an accurate upper build are the barrel, barrel to upper fitment, bolt to barrel extension, relative to an accurate centerline. The rest just kinda comes along for the ride. I do love all the armchair QBs that are saying this or that and really dont have a clue. These are the guys that are happy with 2 MOA and mag dumping into trash at 50 feet.
Caleb, I understand your reasoning that once the barrel nut is torqued, it constricts the receiver around the barrel extension. The problem is that the threaded portion of the receiver doesn’t even cover half of the insertion depth of the barrel extension. So you’re only squeezing that front portion of the receiver and leaving the tail of the extension to free float. Essentially you’re creating a fulcrum to allow movement. By bedding you are taking up that slack and making the whole system more rigid. Now, I don’t know just how much difference it really makes, but to me, I like the idea of a more rigid fit up.
Thank you! It’s a mechanical lockup in two directions! I can’t guess how many upper receivers are damaged during initial build, or changing out a barrel. Thank you for sharing.
I've only ever shim and bedded a barrel on a factory rifle that had a very loose fit between the barrel extension and receiver. Everything else, I've only used moly grease/GMD.
You should not have to shim or bed the barrel in an AR rifle. If the barrel can move relative to the upper once the barrel nut is tightened down correctly, there is a serious fit problem between the barrel extension, the barrel nut, and the upper.
I've had to shim barrel extensions on several billet uppers in order to ensure the extended feed ramps lined up properly and the bolt engaged and disengaged without contact. In dealing with an upper manufacturer I was told it was because I was using a MagPul Bev block to hold the barrel when tightening the barrel nut, rather than holding the upper in a vice block. By holding the barrel and tightening the upper rotates in one direction and the indexing pin on the barrel extension ends up pressing on one side of the channel. When holding the upper and tightening that pin ends up pressed against the OTHER side, which is a very small difference but it's been enough in some cases to cause the bolt lugs to graze on the opposing lugs of the barrel extension or cause feeding issues due to misaligned feed ramps. In the latter case I simply polished everything out but the former case was the one where I learned what was happening and began correcting it with shims
Depends on the tolerance difference between the barrel extension and the upper..When tightening the barrel nut, the compression begins to end around 55 to 65 ft pounds..Shimming closes the gap and is a great fix for loose fits..@@chipsterb4946
In the video you say you're using a Mk18 barrel, in the links you listed a Mk12 barrel. A search of Brownell's site revealed neither one. Tough to follow to duplicate.
I just decided to rewatch this video and was pretty sure I heard him say that he had a mk18 barrel, then said that it is an 18" barrel. I'm glad I'm not the only one to notice that small mistake, it only bothered me because I have seen tv shows mix up the mk12 and mk18 before when it is a show about military adjacent government employees who should be knowledgeable about common military weapon systems, and the character who said it was being trained by a retired spook in the show.
I have had good luck with BCM uppers teemed up with a high quality barrel and matched bolthead. The BCM uppers do need to be thermal fitted, but it is easy and only takes a small amount of heat to do. After you get yours together you will understand just how solid it is, zero movement, and you can't pull it out even with two people. The biggest advantage of doing this is you can run a lower barrel nut torque setting, I have found that 30 - 35 fps works best. The lower amount of torque distorts the front of the receiver less and it seems to help with flyers as things heat up and cool down. Just my two cents.
Great video. I like ordering a complete upper that has been tested. Went with cmmg 12.5 with heavy barrel. I shoot lighter 308's to get back some velocity. Ordered upper first and pinned and welded before ordering lower. Because of sbr laws. Wasn't easy finding a longer steel muzzle device. Ended up with 4" muzzle device so just over 16" because of threading in muzzle device. Mine was built so I don't have to take heirloom out in fowl weather hunting. Wanted something that feels like my muzzle loader. Heavier barrel and good kick. Enough kick that you don't really want to shoot twice. I was nervous about pinning and welding mine. I am on inner ring of paper plate at various yardage. It's my 6 rd bear rifle because hunting laws.
If you have a lot of sloop inside the upper receiver and barrel extension, then the chambered round will not present the bullet to the lands in a concentric manner . Green thread locker won't fix this either. Shim stock is my preferred method.
Great video, Caleb! When you torqued the barrel nut, you mentioned 40 to 50 lbs and then said maybe some more, and then you added some more but didn't say how much. What were your exact settings? Sorry, my ocd is coming out. Lol. Please explain more how to line up the gas block. Thank you!
I had a DPMS style AR-10 I built in 308. I was not happy with its accuracy. I lapped and bedded it and didn’t see a noticeable change in accuracy. The rifle was shot from a bench at 100 yards with lots of different loadings as I’m always tinkering with hand loadings.
Yes reaction rod is key to long term use, the pinned upper vice block are fine for many uses but not heavy commercial use when a reaction rod is best, get one if you can afford it and build out often enough
Reaction rod for putting the Upper, Barrel, and Barrel nut together. When it comes time for the Muzzle device use a set of ash or oak barrel blocks with rosin powder to hold the barrel while you mount the Steel muzzle device on the steel barrel.
A reaction rod with a sail is the best for keeping the barrel from clocking in the upper receiver..It is also easier on the upper and will prevent the index pin from destroying the upper if too much torque is used..
If you ever use green Loctite on your barrel extension, good luck getting it apart again. You'll be using a torch, wooden dowel, and hammer for a while. And then you'll have to use a Dremel tool with a wire brush bit to get that green crap off of the extension.
Mil spec m4 uppers are 50 bucks. Buy a bunch and every barrel swap use a new one. I think it's ok to bed the extension, but not your barrel nut especially if it's for an expensive handguard.
Never had an issue with green loctite. You don't need much heat to soften the compound. I've literally used my stove to heat one up and remove a barrel. $20 heat gun from harbor freight works wonders.
This was great. Thank you. My saint victor 5.56 is wildly in accurate. Throws a ton of flyers. Any suggestions on what it could be. I’m thinking about lapping the crown
20:04 - Is the exact opposite of what happens, Caleb. Overtorquing the muzzle device doesn't "constrict" the end of the muzzle, it flares it like a trumpet. It constricts the barrel further in, but the end of the barrel is flared.
Ugh yourself, it is marketed and called a (MUZZLE EROSION GAUGE) that measures the erosion in the bore from the muzzle..Try again, this topic is way above your pay grade lol..@@OFFICIALUND
Thank you for the video. If you decide to go with an upper receiver that uses a thermal fit (assuming that it has a slight smaller diameter since it needs to be heated to open it up) will the upper receiver lapping tool still fit?
@CalebSavant @brownells Hi Caleb, first off, thank you for taking the time to make your these awesome videos! I'm very interested in using the RifleSpeed Gas Controls Adjustable Gas Block in my latest AR-15 build. I noticed you're not using a straight gas tube in this video. What circumstances determine which type of gas tube (straight or bent) is required? Only asking because I went to order their product, and I noticed the RifleSpeed Gas Controls .625" and .750" products both specifically say: ***Gas Controls require the use of RIFLESPEED or other straight gas tubes***.
1. Removing anodizing and then not treating exposed aluminum isn't great. I was lead to believe that having the upper oriented up and level so the lapping tool isn't removing more on one side than the other 2. The use of a Reaction Rod or something similar so not to mess with receiver integrity ( though the G Aluminum is supposed to be torqued at 40lbs? So that may not need a Reaction rod?) 3. There should be seasoning of the barrel nut threads with the use of a wrench before the torque wrench is used. 4. My understanding is that the rifle speed gas blocks require a specific kind of gas tub that is straight...
How can you alight the gasblock without having or making markers to exactly locate the gas hole in the barrel? By just looking over the crooked gas tube it could easily be a few degrees off, thus diminishing the gas output by 50% or more. This is with standard gasblock/ barrel setups. Some clever and more expensive combinations have prepare dimples or set screwholes already in place of course to rule out errors. The bore scope check works as a final check but it makes sense to do it right from the start
Has Torque wrench changed in 15 years I did a ton of calibrating coming up as a electrician in a plant and the old guys would go though the rooof if you used the torque wrench to loosen what you was tourqing???
There are no videos out there on how to upgrade a free float handguard. All the handguard videos are either a new build, or upgrading a clamshell to a free float. But lets say I got a PSA that I want to put a Geissele Mk4 rail on. The PSA already has a free float handguard.
Part 2 is live: ua-cam.com/video/MIc0XFy1Sgg/v-deo.html
What the minimum length a bench vise needs to open to use the Wheeler Upper Vise? 2.5 inches 3 inches?
Holy crap! A Brownell's 50-min video... Let me get the popcorn.
By the time this guy gets through stumbling around with his words, over complicating the simplest of task and going off in left field talking about off subject topics, he can make a 20 minute job and stretch it out to an hour or more🙄
Can’t wait for the “Building an inaccurate AR15” series
@@ar-15techtipsinunder5minut8 I really enjoy your tech tips, you going to do a response series?
I could produce that no problem
That's easy..just buy a cheap barrel
I'm teaching that one!
Starts from no name parts from gun broker
Please make a video on how to properly pin a gas block. And if there are different methods/tools that can be used.
Literally just buy a drilling jig and the proper taper reamer. Done.
As a 58 year old who only recently took an interest in guns beyond just buying it off the shelf and shooting it. I just wanted to say I appreciate the calm and level headed "don't get your panties in a bunch" approach you bring with your instruction. Thanks for the valuable work you are doing here.
Amazing hobby!!! Perfect way to drop a ton of Gold and pass the time with ease…. 😂😂😂
Damn I want that Geissele rail nice job Caleb
I love how anytime instructions should be said, Caleb says destructions. I have said the same thing ever since I was young assembling models.
Excited for the building an accurate AT4 series
You should always dimple the barrel for the gas block. Even if you are pinning it. It ensures the port on the barrel and the port on the block are perfectly aligned. It also holds it in perfect alignment for the pinning process.
Just in time for doing my very first ever build happening soon! Super stoked!
I bedded a 6.5 Grendel criterion barrel on an AR15 after shooting maybe 220-240 rounds. Group sizes shrunk down and it became more consistent in the 0.5-0.6” range. It seemed immediate as well. But it was also was my first build so you know maybe there are plenty of other reasons it got better.
a barrel usually needs 200 rounds to break-in,so that was probably why your groups shrunk,not the bedding.
Superb instruction.
We need a video on how it shoots.
It'll hit steel at 50 yds no problem
Fantastic step by step. What a masterclass. Thanks for sharing!
Even though i have no thoughts of becoming a armorer or gunsmith, i still enjoy watching these types of videos
This is awesome. I personally have a rule for bedding the extension I refer to as the "hotdog in a hallway" rule. If the fit is extremely sloppy I will use stainless steel shim stock to tighten it up. If it's reasonably snug I won't do anything. If I can thermal fit, I'm super happy.
Thank you for everything you do.
At 18:45, I just took a class on material properties for my engineering degree and I would suggest 35 ish ft-lbs would do very little to reduce the diameter of the barrel extension. That being said, what you said before about the surface mate between the barrel flange and the barrel extension shoulder from the barrel nut would certainly help reduce or theoretically eliminate any play between the barrel and the receiver. Cool video 😁
Regarding bedding, and why it’s unnecessary, I have an Aero M5 build with a Rainier Ultramatch .308 barrel. The barrel to upper fit is a bit on the loose side. Not horrible, but certainly not tight. I torqued the barrel nut appropriately, and with match ammo I get sub minute groups, as good as half minute. So I totally agree with Caleb on bedding being unnecessary.
Using loctite 620 is a lot easier than lapping and bedding.
When lapping, don't let the weight of the drill hang or you will overlap the bottom and not work the face all around.
Caleb did it just fine..
It should be done vertically with the weight of the lapping rod only and spun with your fingers only. Using a drill he pretty much sanded that face down too much. I’d love to mic the size before and after
I use to do it that way too, but I never saw any difference doing it the way Caleb did..Why do you think he lapped the face too much??Looked fine to me...@@KamalasVACANTwomb
He showed exactly how much material was coming off each time, don't see any issues with how he did it.
The lapping rod rides in the receiver bolt guide surfaces and is normally very snug as was the case here. The face was lapped flat without excess material gone.
@@KamalasVACANTwomb You can tell he never lapped valves by hand on an engine head.
Excellent video! Looking forward to part 2.
This is really helpful since I'm getting my head into gunsmithing and it's not as complicated as I thought it was
Learned a few things, all my AR no lapping was done or checked. On the rail installation. I recommend putting a picatinny riser over the point where the upper meets the hand guard. Reason is it will true up the rails and be secured in that orientation. I would hope milling is good one maker another, but you never can say for sure. I would have dropped an inch on the hand guard to give easier access to adjustment of the gas block.
Just watched the blueprinting an action and I'm m stoked up
Mahalo for this. Thinking of building my first AR-15. Sorry to hear of your passing, rest in Aloha.
Wish this came out sooner! I just completed my upper assembly hope it works well…
Outstanding and thorough vid man. I'm amazed The Overlords allow it😂
“Pressed record and saves it to my phone.”
For now
Very timely as I'm interested in building my own competition quality ARs in 5.56, 6MM, 6.5 Grendel, 6.5 Creedmore and 7.62 X 51. Barrel lengths and optics are decisions as well as costs. Going to be fun.
Most torque wrenchs shouldn't be used to loosen a fastner. Also do you guys really recommend the wheeler upper receiver vice block for this work? Doesnt it put a ton of stress on the upper tabs?
That’s kind of what I was thinking watching the vid. My torque wrench instructions say not to do that. I also use an action rod for torquing the barrel nut. And I don’t torque my muzzle devices. But I’m no expert, just a wannabe.😅
I would be using a URR so barrel is not shifting extension pin to one side of receiver when tightening nut. If the extension pin shifts slightly, your bolt and extension will have premature wear
I'm glad I watched this as im going be building my first ar15 (6.5 grendel) and would never have thought of lapping the upper thanks for the info
What a great video! Thanks brother, I learned a few new things here!
good info, thank you. love the AT4 in the safe, Check your back blast area!
I use a Bev Block or reaction rod so you don't put pressure on the upper while torquing the barrel nut, and the muzzle device. You can bend the upper if you don't use one.
Very much agree
Just finished a Retro Vietnam style Carbine build. Real fun. A lot of Brownells parts. Shoots great.🏆🪖🏆
I am new to building an "AR" Being a cnc and convental machinist for 25 plus years, this will be interesting...lol Thanks Brownells!
Thanks brother. That was, by far, the best AR build video I have seen yet. Subbed, going to watch part 2 now.
Seriously, that was just perfect, you really taught me some things.
My Rifle Speed gas blocks required straight gas tubes. No bends!
You can definitely see it angling down as it enters the upper receiver. Everything I've read about them states they all use straight gas tubes. He should have installed his BCG prior to securing the gas block and he should have used a reaction rod before torquing the barrel nut.
Definitely out of whack!@@noquartergiven7789
I thought I was going crazy when I saw that it fit until I noticed the angles were looking a little funky.
Great video! Thank you!
Would love to see a separate short on what torqueing then releasing then repeating does for the threads.
Can't beat thermal fit. Barrel goes in the freezer, upper receiver gets warmed by heat gun. Quick slide together. Super tight and right. Works MUCH better and easier with barrel stored for a few hours in the freezer. It WILL end up with condensation, however.
Thermal fits are so awesome!In my experience with thermal fit uppers and lapping it with the Brownells tool is a no go. They are tight for a reason and the tool will not seat, wouldnt even go a 1/16 of the way in. So thats a heads up if anyone is wanting to lap a thermal fit be warned. Now that being said, different companies and dimensions are key so it still could work. If the tool wont fit, Id just say dont force it. Never had to put the barrel in the freezer, even thought I get the shinking property when cold etc etc giggity. Few hot seconds like 3-5 seconds with a light torch, butane or map gas and done. Please dont be that person that holds it in on 1 spot above the flame till it melts in your hand. You got to rotisserie that bad boy and dont hesitate.
“Thermal fit” = snake oil.
When your barrel nut is torqued it will compress the front bore of the upper around the barrel extension on its own.
@@rifleshooterchannel208 Very nice explanation. What's you explanation for the many MANY experts who have confirmed that a tighter fit enhances accuracy. Experimental results trump ALL theory.
@@GetMeThere1 Never seen any actual results that showed it does anything.
And yes I’ve heard all of the *anecdotes* from Joe Carlos.
@@rifleshooterchannel208 A good video from my point of view is "Building Match Grade AR-15s" from channel FUNshootVideo. He has spent a long lifetime accurizing the AR-15. I don't ignore recommendations from people who truly have TREMENDOUS experience. But sure, it could be tested; personally I don't feel the need. (Note: he talks about shims and over-sized extensions. Someone mentioned thermal fits, and he responded in comments that he agrees (and agrees with Joe Carlos)
I lapp and bed anything i want exceptional accuracy from in the ar platform.
In some cases it may not be necessary but i do it regardless and i have had Ar15/Ar10 that have shot under .5 moa at 100yds some a good bit under! Not saying your wrong but im saying im sticking to what works for me consistently well. I also make sure gas tube is centered and free from binding.
I also modify lower extension
Criterion and SOLGW both suggest bedding the barrel.
I always enjoy these “do it yourself” videos. I often notice that at least one seemingly significant step is referenced but not covered. In this case you mention that you will use a bore scope before drilling the barrel. This seems like something we should see and a significant step. I’m guessing you’ll say this step is in another video so, if that is true, maybe a link inside the video would help for such a seemingly significant step? If the step isn’t in another video, would you consider making one? I do appreciate the content.
I saw fellow talk about using a short length of spaghetti to align the gas block and the gas port. I would have to look up video for how he did it.
ua-cam.com/video/cMghFkCGgHg/v-deo.htmlsi=ewNWWrBdkuOh9cLm
@@brownellsthank you for the video showing the bore scope in action. Is there a video where you show the next step of “how to drill the barrel” as referenced in the original content? I’m not sure I understand how to drill an “undimpled” barrel without damaging the barrel. Thank you again for your very helpful content. I do appreciate these videos.
very entertaining and informative video!
The best design barrel nut tool ever for Geissele all the stock barrel nuts break off after 50lbs
This is gods work
Very nice detailed video. One point of contention is the Torque Wrench needs to be inline with the barrel nut and muzzle device wrench. You wont get accurate torque measurements when it is at 90 degrees.
Not true. When using a torque adapter, to achieve the actual torque that the wrench is set to the adapter must be at 90° so you are not changing the length of the torque wrench. If you extend the adapter straight out you are extending the length of the torque wrench, increasing leverage and adding more torque than the wrench is set to. If you want to use the adapter straight out you can calculate a decreased torque setting for the wrench by figuring out what percentage you're increasing the length of the wrench.
I was about to ask about lapping the upper reciever but Caleb beat me to it. Thanks.
I've met people that knew something about guns and has said they know how to build ar15's but have never done it. If they say they have they bought a complete upper and lower and mated them together and called it " A build". Changed the furniture to magpul and put a red dot and it was " Customized ". Put a novelty ejection port on it and called it " one of a kind". Then I asked them what brand of AR do they have and its a " M16 it's got a full auto bcg" Im glad to know that thier are soo many gunsmiths that know what they are doing.
Which reminds me about the guy I met that had a " milled" receiver Ak47, but had rivets all over it. So I asked him who told him it was a " milled " receiver. Quote "ITS A MILLED RECEIVER BECUASE I BOUGHT IT AND I KNOW WHAT I BOUGHT "
A video of pinning the rifle speed gas block would be helpful.
Overall decent video. I would have went a different way with a few parts, but it is what it is.
The most important things of an accurate upper build are the barrel, barrel to upper fitment, bolt to barrel extension, relative to an accurate centerline. The rest just kinda comes along for the ride.
I do love all the armchair QBs that are saying this or that and really dont have a clue. These are the guys that are happy with 2 MOA and mag dumping into trash at 50 feet.
Love these type vids
Love these videos Caleb!!!!
Love the AT4 in the background 😊👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Caleb, I understand your reasoning that once the barrel nut is torqued, it constricts the receiver around the barrel extension. The problem is that the threaded portion of the receiver doesn’t even cover half of the insertion depth of the barrel extension. So you’re only squeezing that front portion of the receiver and leaving the tail of the extension to free float. Essentially you’re creating a fulcrum to allow movement. By bedding you are taking up that slack and making the whole system more rigid. Now, I don’t know just how much difference it really makes, but to me, I like the idea of a more rigid fit up.
If the tail end of the extension is free floated, then what would it be bedding to? Not necessary
Very cool to see Brownell's move into the digital age with online content.
40:58 You're a really good instructor
Great video!!👍🏼🤩🤙🏽
I might try a shorter hand rail, just to easily operate that adjustable gas block.
Thank you! It’s a mechanical lockup in two directions! I can’t guess how many upper receivers are damaged during initial build, or changing out a barrel. Thank you for sharing.
Can you give us a run down on your tool box?
Sure!
This video was the perfect ending to an already great day! Thanks for sharing.
Great video. Need a quick run down of the tool box set up=)
I've only ever shim and bedded a barrel on a factory rifle that had a very loose fit between the barrel extension and receiver. Everything else, I've only used moly grease/GMD.
You should not have to shim or bed the barrel in an AR rifle. If the barrel can move relative to the upper once the barrel nut is tightened down correctly, there is a serious fit problem between the barrel extension, the barrel nut, and the upper.
Shimming a barrel is necessary for over sized uppers..@@chipsterb4946
I've had to shim barrel extensions on several billet uppers in order to ensure the extended feed ramps lined up properly and the bolt engaged and disengaged without contact. In dealing with an upper manufacturer I was told it was because I was using a MagPul Bev block to hold the barrel when tightening the barrel nut, rather than holding the upper in a vice block. By holding the barrel and tightening the upper rotates in one direction and the indexing pin on the barrel extension ends up pressing on one side of the channel. When holding the upper and tightening that pin ends up pressed against the OTHER side, which is a very small difference but it's been enough in some cases to cause the bolt lugs to graze on the opposing lugs of the barrel extension or cause feeding issues due to misaligned feed ramps. In the latter case I simply polished everything out but the former case was the one where I learned what was happening and began correcting it with shims
Depends on the tolerance difference between the barrel extension and the upper..When tightening the barrel nut, the compression begins to end around 55 to 65 ft pounds..Shimming closes the gap and is a great fix for loose fits..@@chipsterb4946
In the video you say you're using a Mk18 barrel, in the links you listed a Mk12 barrel. A search of Brownell's site revealed neither one. Tough to follow to duplicate.
Mk12 barrel, mk18 handguard. A full parts list is under the video on our webpage.
I just decided to rewatch this video and was pretty sure I heard him say that he had a mk18 barrel, then said that it is an 18" barrel. I'm glad I'm not the only one to notice that small mistake, it only bothered me because I have seen tv shows mix up the mk12 and mk18 before when it is a show about military adjacent government employees who should be knowledgeable about common military weapon systems, and the character who said it was being trained by a retired spook in the show.
Definitely a useful video!
Caleb's artistry 😂😂😂
The AT4 just casually chillin in the safe behind him
I immediately noticed it too 🤣
I have had good luck with BCM uppers teemed up with a high quality barrel and matched bolthead. The BCM uppers do need to be thermal fitted, but it is easy and only takes a small amount of heat to do. After you get yours together you will understand just how solid it is, zero movement, and you can't pull it out even with two people. The biggest advantage of doing this is you can run a lower barrel nut torque setting, I have found that 30 - 35 fps works best. The lower amount of torque distorts the front of the receiver less and it seems to help with flyers as things heat up and cool down. Just my two cents.
Great step by step process!
Great video! Very helpful content! 👍
thanks for the intel,, great vid Vinni van Gogh... dont worry, we wont tell the art teachers
Thanks, a lot guys!
Great video. I like ordering a complete upper that has been tested. Went with cmmg 12.5 with heavy barrel. I shoot lighter 308's to get back some velocity. Ordered upper first and pinned and welded before ordering lower. Because of sbr laws. Wasn't easy finding a longer steel muzzle device. Ended up with 4" muzzle device so just over 16" because of threading in muzzle device. Mine was built so I don't have to take heirloom out in fowl weather hunting. Wanted something that feels like my muzzle loader. Heavier barrel and good kick. Enough kick that you don't really want to shoot twice. I was nervous about pinning and welding mine. I am on inner ring of paper plate at various yardage. It's my 6 rd bear rifle because hunting laws.
If you have a lot of sloop inside the upper receiver and barrel extension, then the chambered round will not present the bullet to the lands in a concentric manner . Green thread locker won't fix this either. Shim stock is my preferred method.
Great video, Caleb! When you torqued the barrel nut, you mentioned 40 to 50 lbs and then said maybe some more, and then you added some more but didn't say how much. What were your exact settings? Sorry, my ocd is coming out. Lol. Please explain more how to line up the gas block. Thank you!
Lol he said 10 more
You guys should link a full tools list with the build series.
What tool box is that next to you Caleb?
I had a DPMS style AR-10 I built in 308. I was not happy with its accuracy. I lapped and bedded it and didn’t see a noticeable change in accuracy. The rifle was shot from a bench at 100 yards with lots of different loadings as I’m always tinkering with hand loadings.
Maybe it's a poor barrel quality that's effecting your accuracy
Isn't a reaction type rod a better option than the cross pin type upper holder when torquing the barrel nut?
Yes
I have tried both, and prefer a cross pin style. The clam shell devices have crimped three receivers out of spec for my building.
Yes reaction rod is key to long term use, the pinned upper vice block are fine for many uses but not heavy commercial use when a reaction rod is best, get one if you can afford it and build out often enough
Reaction rod for putting the Upper, Barrel, and Barrel nut together. When it comes time for the Muzzle device use a set of ash or oak barrel blocks with rosin powder to hold the barrel while you mount the Steel muzzle device on the steel barrel.
A reaction rod with a sail is the best for keeping the barrel from clocking in the upper receiver..It is also easier on the upper and will prevent the index pin from destroying the upper if too much torque is used..
This is such a great video. Thanks guys.
If you ever use green Loctite on your barrel extension, good luck getting it apart again. You'll be using a torch, wooden dowel, and hammer for a while. And then you'll have to use a Dremel tool with a wire brush bit to get that green crap off of the extension.
Mil spec m4 uppers are 50 bucks. Buy a bunch and every barrel swap use a new one. I think it's ok to bed the extension, but not your barrel nut especially if it's for an expensive handguard.
I never had any problem removing a barrel that was bedded with green loctite..
Never had an issue with green loctite. You don't need much heat to soften the compound. I've literally used my stove to heat one up and remove a barrel. $20 heat gun from harbor freight works wonders.
This was great. Thank you. My saint victor 5.56 is wildly in accurate. Throws a ton of flyers. Any suggestions on what it could be. I’m thinking about lapping the crown
20:04 - Is the exact opposite of what happens, Caleb. Overtorquing the muzzle device doesn't "constrict" the end of the muzzle, it flares it like a trumpet. It constricts the barrel further in, but the end of the barrel is flared.
We did an expirament in a video showing it happen, check it out!
It constricts the bore the more torque that is applied..AR15 tech used a muzzle erosion gauge to prove this..
@@hairydogstail Ugh. The BORE, not the MUZZLE. The bore is not the same thing as the muzzle. The very end of the barrel=muzzle.
Ugh yourself, it is marketed and called a (MUZZLE EROSION GAUGE) that measures the erosion in the bore from the muzzle..Try again, this topic is way above your pay grade lol..@@OFFICIALUND
I would love a bore, i just pluger holes and give it a good blowing till its full flowband lock itbdown
Caleb, perfect....
Wonderful, but when will the accuracy of the upper be proven?
Thank you for the video. If you decide to go with an upper receiver that uses a thermal fit (assuming that it has a slight smaller diameter since it needs to be heated to open it up) will the upper receiver lapping tool still fit?
No, you will need to have a custom one made or turn one down on a lathe..Thermal fits come in different sizes to complicate the issue..
@@hairydogstail Thanks for the intel.
Mix that lapping compound with some Aeroshell 64. Makes it a perfect consistency and sticks to lapping tool better
@CalebSavant
@brownells
Hi Caleb, first off, thank you for taking the time to make your these awesome videos! I'm very interested in using the RifleSpeed Gas Controls Adjustable Gas Block in my latest AR-15 build. I noticed you're not using a straight gas tube in this video. What circumstances determine which type of gas tube (straight or bent) is required? Only asking because I went to order their product, and I noticed the RifleSpeed Gas Controls .625" and .750" products both specifically say: ***Gas Controls require the use of RIFLESPEED or other straight gas tubes***.
Should or Shouldn't you check and correct (bed ) the barrel nut ?
1. Removing anodizing and then not treating exposed aluminum isn't great. I was lead to believe that having the upper oriented up and level so the lapping tool isn't removing more on one side than the other
2. The use of a Reaction Rod or something similar so not to mess with receiver integrity ( though the G Aluminum is supposed to be torqued at 40lbs? So that may not need a Reaction rod?)
3. There should be seasoning of the barrel nut threads with the use of a wrench before the torque wrench is used.
4. My understanding is that the rifle speed gas blocks require a specific kind of gas tub that is straight...
I have 3 Rifle Speed gas blocks and the tubes are all straight, due to their height. Looked like Brownells bent theirs to make it “straight”
A reaction rod with a sail will prevent the barrel from clocking in the upper..
Uppers are super easy to build as long as you have a good vice setup, whereas lowers can be built while sitting at a desk
love the video. we do NOT need a permanent music bed
Should you lap the barrel if you’re lapping the upper? It seems like milling the heads but not surfacing the block.
How can you alight the gasblock without having or making markers to exactly locate the gas hole in the barrel? By just looking over the crooked gas tube it could easily be a few degrees off, thus diminishing the gas output by 50% or more. This is with standard gasblock/ barrel setups. Some clever and more expensive combinations have prepare dimples or set screwholes already in place of course to rule out errors. The bore scope check works as a final check but it makes sense to do it right from the start
So although it’s not a collet it will act like a collet to a very small extent? Interesting concept, really can’t argue against that.
Has Torque wrench changed in 15 years I did a ton of calibrating coming up as a electrician in a plant and the old guys would go though the rooof if you used the torque wrench to loosen what you was tourqing???
There are no videos out there on how to upgrade a free float handguard. All the handguard videos are either a new build, or upgrading a clamshell to a free float. But lets say I got a PSA that I want to put a Geissele Mk4 rail on. The PSA already has a free float handguard.
Did not isolate the barrel from torquing the barrel nut, could've snapped the alignment pin making the gas block alignment to be off
Thank you