Bowens Gemini GM500 Pro Studio Flash | Official Repairer Couldn't Fix It | Can I FIX it?
Вставка
- Опубліковано 19 кві 2024
- A viewer called Steve asked if I'd be able to have a look at his Bowens Gemini GM500 Pro photographers studio flash unit that wasn't working correctly. He had already sent it to the official repairer but was told that the part wasn't available any more. Let's see if we can do any better and hopefully repair it!
I'm not an expert, but I do enjoy trying to fix things.
If you enjoyed this video, or found it useful or helpful, please consider subscribing. It's free and you'll be notified when I upload more videos.
Thank you for your support!
Some of the tools and equipment that I use:
The Famous Blue Mat: amzn.to/47bPNGK
Infiray P2 Pro Thermal Camera: amzn.to/47c05Xm
170 piece electronics tool kit (security bits): amzn.to/3FGLWpr
SMD Tweezer set: amzn.to/3t9GlW4
Aixun T3A Soldering Station: amzn.to/3u2SBri
Soldering Flux: amzn.to/3UDC0py
Low Melt Solder: amzn.to/3QICZ5r : Cheaper Alternative amzn.to/3G4L3XK
Grinding pen: amzn.to/3QCHE7v
Component Tester: amzn.to/46UcHm6 alternative (slightly cheaper) amzn.to/49yZSzJ
Overhead Camera Mount I Use: amzn.to/3tX8Ar4
Microscope Light (I use on my Trinocular): amzn.to/3FEAPgy
AD409 Pro Microscope 10" Screen: amzn.to/3G0CI7P
Extra Long Torx Drivers(used on Milwaukee radio): amzn.to/40siUU3
DC Power Adapter plugs 38 PCS: amzn.to/49lCUMm
USB Power Meter Tester: amzn.to/47VOEn9
SMD Component ruler 3x (for sizes of components): amzn.to/3TvfcWO
Other Equipment:
Main Overhead camera: Sony HDR-CX450 with 3rd party remote and RODE VideoMic Pro
Other cameras: Canon G7X, iPhone 6
Microscopes: Amscope trinocular (clone) with FHD 48MP Camera V8
& Adonstar AD409 Pro.
Editing Software: DaVinci Resolve
The above links are amazon affiliate links, and I may receive a small amount from Amazon at no extra cost to you, if you choose to purchase an item.
#electronics #electronicsrepair #repair
Bowens Studio Flash Repair
Gemini Flash Repair
GM500Pro Repair
Gemini GM500 Pro repair
Faulty Gemini GM500 Pro
Broken Gemini GM500 Pro
Faulty Bowens Flash - Навчання та стиль
Wow! I am so grateful to you Mick for this repair and agreeing to take it on especially as I know you are quite busy at the moment. It is and has for a longtime, been a sad case of board swapping repairs to save money and time given the complexity of modern equipment. I remember the email we got in the technology centre telling us to just replace faulty units and even complete computers rather than diagnose the fault. Thank goodness there are folks like you still interested enough to go further and perform proper fixes. I really am struggling to find the words that fully express my gratitude to you for your work so a simple heart felt thank you will have to do. I am looking forward to recommissioning the Bowens GM500 pro and the modelling lamp will ease studio setups no end. Thank you - you are a star!
Parts no longer available - hmm when resistors no longer become available we're all in trouble!
They're probably referring to the whole board.
@@mash83 Yes you are probably right. I've fixed £250 LED controller boards because the psu diode fries (it does cost 31p!) As soo as they are "out of warranty" the manufacturer only wants to sell you the entire replacement controller ...
@@mash83 i doubt whether they even looked at it
@kinggreene with how awkard it is to open and deal with - quite possibly 🤷♂️ but it's fair enough for this level of repair to not be dealt with by the company themselves. This is a board replacement (which may well not be available as they say) or a repair shop willing to put in the time and extensive investigation, probably outside the realm of economical repair. You just need a very good youtuber mate 🤔
That's what happens when "Approved Repairers" are just board jockeys and not real techs.
imagine how many things gets thrown in the rubbish because a 1 pence resistor fails.
Yup and it’s a shame. But for the average person who has to rely on a repair shop, it can become very expensive (and that’s not the repair shops fault, they need to make a living!) so unless the item is high value or difficult to replace then sadly off to landfill it goes :(
This is why we should force them to release the schematics for all manufacturer electrical/electronic devices. Just because they are unable to fix things, does not mean the rest of the world is so useless.
Because of channels like this, is why my carpet cleaner hasn’t been thrown away. Fixed/replaced two pumps, a bearing, and a blown capacitor. I have it close to 10 years.
How many ps5’s get tossed because of a 2p cap
@@cheapasstech you mean the on next to the HDMI port?
Always a good feeling when you beat the official repair crew.
Totally 😂😂👍
Official repair crews are generally assembly lines. If it takes them more than "n" minutes of time, it's not viable to run as a business, because the customer isn't going to pay for the extra time to fix something.
But have to learn something: Long time ago I was working at a small company who was making proffesional studio flash equipment in the Netherlands. The first thing we did when we have to repair this kind of flash units was to discharged the capacitor.
You don't want to come into contact with a voltage of 500V and currents of 1000A!
"I got balls of steeeel"... Loved that game!
And hail to the king baby
"Come get some" 😂😂😂
"It's time to kick ass and chew bubble gum. And I'm all outta gum"
And still the undefeated champion, Mr fixit 😂👌💪
😂😂😂Thanks 👍
So much for the ability of the 'official repairer'. In my experience if they can't fix it by doing a board swap, they lack the ability to do component level fixes.
Agree 👍
Thank god for youtube and people like you passing on thier knowledge and experience onto us. Also sounds like the service center wasn't going to repair the unit, they were going to do an apple and just replace the inners with new parts. Makes a change for it to be a resistor and not a capacitor.
Thanks mate 👍
22:32 you can see the piece of plating that cracked off the left end of the resistor
Yes 👍Cheers Mike.
Long time ago I was working at a small company who was making proffesional studio flash equipment in the Netherlands. The first thing we did when we have to repair this kind of flash units was to discharged the capacitor.
You don't want to come into contact with a voltage of 500V and currents of 1000A!
Yes agree, this one had a bleeder resistor across it so it discharges when not powered 👍
@@BuyitFixit Nice to hear you was aware of this.
Excellent repair, and talk-through process. As a noob, it was incredibly interesting to watch!
Thanks 🙂👍
@@BuyitFixit I'm OK with soldering with "obviously" damaged components, but I'm very weak on my fault-finding if nothing looks obvious - so this type of content is valuable to someone like me who wants to learn! You have a new subscriber!!! 👍
Nice logical faultfinding. I just kept screaming at you to remove the barcket 😄
😂😂😂👍
Was anyone else shouting to take that ceramic bit out the light hahaha ?
No wonder they wouldnt touch it must very akwardly put together. Fair play Mick very patient methodical fix. Thanks for sharing.
Cheers mate 👍
You do some interesting repairs and your thought process analyzing the situations is impressive. After watching a few of the old little video game repairs I was getting tired of those. Repairing a unit like this one is really worth watching. I fixed my garage door opener by replacing the three-cent capacitor. Resisters don't usually go bad but clearly you use logic to find the bad resistor which look like the end disconnected from the resistor which was clear to me as soon as you mailed it the solder on one end of it the whole resistor moved which meant the solder joint or the resistor failed on the other end. Your channel is one of my favorites and I look forward to your repairs of important and complex and relevant equipment.
Thanks 👍Yes I try to do a variety of different things. It also depends what comes my way!
Very cool although the time required to fix this probably equates to the cost of a new one.
Excellent find , great to watch you work.
Thanks 👍
I have these very studio lights (750pro and 500pro)'s, pretty super and bulletproof but it was very interesting to see inside, fyi Bowens as a company went out of business as of about 2017, so i really found this useful, many thanks....
Thanks, glad you found it interesting 👍🙂
I have several coloured markers that I use to mark the ocnnectors when I am pulling stuff apart. It helps from looking at pictures
That’s a good idea.
Yes me too. Got caught once, then I found multi colour packs of markers. Great advice.
Thanks for the tip 👍
Wow a 2 cent part that is common as dirt ...... I hope they didn't charge Steve a fee for the " NON repairable " device ....... Great job..... Take care Mon Ami...
Thanks Cajun, I think the "repairer" just swaps boards, and a board "wasn't available"
Great repair Mick. What a carry on to get to that resistor. Very well done
Thanks 👍Much appreciated 🙂
Great repair. The IR cell is for the master/slave mode, when you have multiple units they can fire when a master light fires, and this avoids the need of a radio control for each unit. Obviously the units must see each other for this to work.
Thanks for that, I did wonder. Thanks for clearing that up 👍
I have 4 of these from when I tried my hand at Photography, they are great units and expensive.
Well at least you now know what's inside of them 🙂
The original repairers probably knew how much of a ball-ache it was to take apart and didn't want to touch it :D
They are board swappers not fixers like Mick. They told me the “board” was not available anymore. I do computers and we get loads that are just failed components but companies won’t go that deep into a repair. NO profit.
I really really appreciate that you show how much of a PITA these things can be. Thanks for fixing this crap and showing us how you do it. Don’t stop!
Cheers 👍
Glad you were able to fix it with a part that was ready available....😉
😂😂😂Yes, I just looked on one of my "junk boards" and there it was. I hear they are very rare these days 😂😂😂
I see many repair videos where the first shop was too lazy to even start with a diagnose...😢
My first guess was the Triac, because of the thumb rule: "It was the Butler", ehh no, what I wanted to say, "It was the part where the most current goes through"
Yes I thought it might have been the triac too, but I guess we were both wrong 😂😂👍
Class diagnostics again Mick, That was probably an expensive bit of kit in its day.
Thanks 👍yes agree 🙂
Still not cheap to buy secondhand today.
Really enjoying the varied and unusual items you're repairing recently. Another great repair!
Thank you 👍
Great job. Nice methodical fault finding.
Thanks 👍
I just fixed a couple "White Lightning" flash units. One had a broken IEC power connector and the other had a short between one of the legs of the xenon tube and the metal case. The manufacturer didn't want to work on those either. It seems anything over a few years old is a waste of time for them.
Yes,unfortunately most manufacturers would rather you buy a new one these days.
You just know the shop that tried to repair this checked the bulb, the fuse then thought, we aren't going to make any money on this, tell them the parts aren't available and get rid of them.
Either that or they are just board swappers and the board was "unavailable" due to Bowens no longer being in business.
Got a sense of déjà vu when you removed the rubber plug near the handle to find it wasn't hiding a screw. Fortunately, the unit I was troubleshooting only required me to get access to the connectors for the switches on the rear panel. Thanks for sharing, I've saved this video to keep as a reference for next time I have to open one up, and there will be a next time. I guaranteed that by repairing it the first time.
Nice, what was the problem with the unit you have?
Good stuff, saw the resistor come away from its end cap ! that looks like an expensive bit of kit too.....cheers.
Cheers Andymouse 👍
Great job with the diagnosis and repair, sir! 👍Very happy customer, I'll bet! Shame on that "repair center". Not for simply not having the experience to do a proper diagnosis and repair, we can't all be wizards after all, but for not even trying.
Thanks 👍
Nice fix. I can no longer do this sort of work.
Same here, I went blind in 2011, but, still good stuff
Thanks, shame. Yes I guess I'll be at that point some day too 😢
You still AMAZE me!!
Thanks Fred 👍
Great fix. Capacitors the size of bean cans :)
Yes, I wouldn't fancy getting a shock from them!
Since i've been toying with the idea of tinkering/fixing electronics, I've started to notice just how much electrical/electronic gear ends up in the bin or a skip. It's pretty shocking really. I've just lifted a nail gun out of a skip where there's some work going on retiling a roof. Not stripped it down yet but I'm quite looking forward to getting into it. It's rated at 1500 Watts so I reckon i'll have to be careful with it.
I used to go to our local recycling centre (rubbish tip) to get rid of garden waste now and again, and the amount of electrical / electronic stuff I used to see being dumped was shocking.
Brilliant. Just brilliant.
Thank you 👍
That was an amazing fix. I know nothing about electronics and it always amazes me to see you fix things that I know would normally just be junked. Awesome video!
Thank you 👍🙂
I'll bet that unit cost thousands of dollars and you made it usable with a $0.05 part. That is what got me interested in microelectronics. I have a gas range in my home and the oven would sometimes turn on but you had to keep pushing the on button over and over again and maybe after 10 times it would take and then the oven would come on. I took out the circuit board and this oven is from 1986, a GE top model. I replaced a small electrolytic capacitor that cost maybe $0.10. and now instead of spending $1,500 on a new stove mine works perfectly now. After watching this video I understand more about opto couplers.
Thanks 👍as I was reading your comment I was thinking capacitor? and then read that's what it was 😂😂Well done on fixing your stove 👍
its amazing how little effort some repair centres make on some repairs. excellent work.
Thanks 👍 Yes agree!
Being interested in Photography (besides all my other hobbies) this was great. SUCH a shame it was not actually a Grenade launcher, would have continued your Evil Genius from the last couple of videos 🙂KEWL bit of kit though, bet the owner is WELL pleased, if not I will pop up and get it from you, also bring a trailer load of stuff for you to fix 🙂
BLAST, just read the post from the owner 🙂
Thanks Chris 👍Yes a trailer load of stuff sounds great 😂😂😂😂
Thumbs for the Duke Nukem reference!
Thanks 👍Yes I remember lugging my PC and CRT monitor around to a friends house with a few other mates and us linking up with coax network cards to play multiplayer 😂😂😂
Another great fix.
Thanks 👍
Really loved to see you figure this out. So interesting and satisfying! 👏👍
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video.
We need to save our 330 ohm resistors and sell them at the price of gold...seems they are not available any more...😂😂😂
Thanks 👍
You do some fine work!
Cheers Dude!
You are soooo bright!
😂😂Cheers
Lovely!
Customer: Please fix my device.
Manufacturer: We can't get the part! Buy a new unit!
The part: 330 Ω surface mount resistor.
Manufacturer:
😂😂😂😂👍
Great job once again! I lost all ye faith at about 10 minutes in, but you came through!!
Thanks 👍
Top fault finding and fix
Thanks 👍
Sound job Mick 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Cheers 👍
Well done dude
Thanks!
Fantastic fix bro👍👍 I'm astounded you found that resistor so quickly and that out of all the components involved it was the culprit. A broken resistor is not unheard of but not very common in the greater scheme of things. A nightmare indeed taking apart and putting back together, your dexterity is above normal it seems. Thanks for the work in front of and behind the camera, well done. See ya soon.
Thanks Terry 👍
I think you missed the nice big spark that happened @10:18 near your right hand as you rotated the unit. :o
You are good and lucky to find that bad resistor mate.👍👍
Thanks 👍
Excellent job!
Cheers 👍🙂
Not got a clue what you were doing same as Big C but was fasinating and subbed.
Thanks 👍Welcome aboard 🙂
Wow! Had very rarely seen a board so badly soldered. Half of the solderjoints are dry. A wonder how it is able to work anyhow. Look at the middle pin of the trough hole device next to the Optocoupler. That is the next failure. And The SMD transistor to the right with the name Q3 is also only held on the board with air and love it seems.
Genius, well done.
Thanks 👍
Excellent job! Once again.👍
Cheers mate 👍
Brilliant fix and diagnosis again, thanks Mick 😀
Cheers Mike 👍
Very nice work!
Thank you! Cheers!
Another great fix. looking forward to next Saturday :) best regards from east Iceland
Thank you 👍
Cracking job again👍
Cheers Darren 👍
Great work.
Thank you! Cheers!
You are a true Master Chief
Thank you 👍
This man is a genius!
Thanks 👍
Nice work 👌
Thanks 👍
You will attack anything! Bravo.
Thanks Tom 👍
Seems unlikely that Bowens would turn that repair away. They have always offered pretty good service to professional photographers.
As a side note a very long time ago I was photographing some of the Arsenal squad at their old training ground at London Colney. I had a couple of large flash units connected to a generator. It started to rain lightly and suddenly there was a sound like a gunshot. The zener diode in one of the flash units had exploded. When I turned back to apologise to the players they were all hiding in the bushes. Their other training had kicked in. Oops.
Sadly Bowens went bust. They were fantastic for repairs but it’s now outsourced to a company that just do board swapping not proper electronic repair work.
Yeah, flash tubes and skin oils DO NOT mix... Good call on the gloves.
Thanks 👍
Good save! Aside, studio lights like these happen to have about the same sort of output as a spot welder capable of welding copper tabs to lithium batteries.
Thanks 👍I bet the spot welder runs at a lot lower voltage than 385V or so! I wouldn't fancy giving it a go 😂😂😂
@@BuyitFixit I think you'd have to direct the output of the light through a suitable transformer, which I'm in no rush to dabble with, but the numbers look ok.
Awesome!
Thanks 🙂👍
Brilliant fix Mick, glad you spotted that resistor because I didn’t lol. I remember when my Nikon cameras pop up flash got dislodged, I took the camera apart so I could clip it back in place and accidentally touched the back of the board for the flash, I felt alot of pain up my arm it was a bit of a bite lol, my finger had a burn crater lol, it looked and smelt like a soldering iron burn…
Cheers Gary 👍Yes even those little xenon tubes drivers can give a bit of a nip. I wouldn't fancy a bite from this one 😂😂😂
@@BuyitFixit lol it would be a lot more then nip or bite mate ⚡️
Good job.
Be careful, touch those capacitors when they are fully charged and it might be your last day.
Thanks, yep pretty much what I thought too 👍
good fix
Thanks 👍
awesome vid
Thanks 👍
This flash is less accessible than an 80 years old maiden. 😬
And yes, a resistor like that is really obsolete, I bet they never did take it apart.
Good repair.
😂😂😂😂Thanks 👍
"Buy a new one, the part's not available... because I don't know how to fix my own creation!"
Pretty much, although they were just the official repairer and not the manufacturer who since went out of business.
25:33 no ,nope, couldn't see a fing. Silva? Scary stuff, crt like😅
amazing😃
Thanks 😄
I worked for that manufacturer back in 1990ish, was a great company back then
The equipments is not rocket science
Although it does look slightly like a rocket launcher.. 😂😂👍
Brilhante
All of those connectors and yet there are soldered on wires that prevent you from getting into the "guts" of the lamp. Terrible layout. Great repair!
Thanks 👍🙂
The first thing that come to my mind was Diana 😎
If you find that your hands react to the gloves you maybe allergic to latex, which is quite common. Try some vinyl or non latex gloves
Thank you for the suggestion 👍, it's not allergic is more of the feeling of something else than my skin, they also seem to make my hands sweat after a while too. I have been trying to wear gloves a bit more often especially when working on our cars or vehicles, as my hands can get in some right states with oil etc.
Makes you wonder if they even bothered opening it up
Agree 👍
Anyone else see R83 let loose when he only touched one side with the iron?
Yep, that seemed to be the cause of the problem.
It works now. How bout the two springs? Did you find where they belonged?
My question as well. I presume there's a third one and they are used under the 3 little rods contacting the flash bulb.
Likely manufacture knew from what the light didn't do the board was bad and not worth it to them to fix. Did you ever figure out where the springs actually went?
Yes agree. No, never worked out where they went although I might have another look before I send it back.
*NICE Job, again.* That's a Wicked Light! i can see it as Weapon, not easiest to carry, but weapon, just the same.
Tho 'frustrating' as parts start falling off while disassembling item, the *Skill to Laugh is never given enough credit.*
So, did Springs go in 'Lid'?
To Gadget Gods: Just chance to view parts locations before they remove themselves, would be nice. : } _thanks_
Thanks 👍Yes not quite an RPG but you could perhaps temporarily blind someone with it 😂😂😂😂
It’s interesting how the end cracked off the 330R resistor. The reason for this is likely insufficient design margin for temperature. The resistor and board have unequal expansion rates (the opto current causes a bit of heating). So, the thermal stress causes mechanical stress. After lots of thermal cycles (turning the lamp on/off) then something has to give, in this case the metallisation on the end the resistor. Thermal cycling kills electronics. The only practical way that the designer can get around this is to select a bigger resistor, one rated for more power so it runs cooler. This is de-rating.
Great explanation. Perhaps it wasn't soldered quite a well on that side which allowed it to heat and fail? Although it's only a small LED being driven by a microcontroller so I can't see a lot of current passing through it.
"The part is no longer available from Bowens". Lazy B's - I'd be informing Bowens about the response from their official repair centre and the manager of Fixation.
Unfortunately I think Bowens went out of business a few years back.
@@BuyitFixit Doesn't bode well then for my 4 Bowens monoblocs, 250 x 1, 500 x 2 , 1000 x 1. I will have to check if the distributor here in Australia is still the repairer. Thanks for the feedback.
Hi! there once again, I wonder if the tech who worked on this ever open it, to really see what the problem was. I don't think so. Hope they didn't charge him.
Yep they charged 35£ knowing they could not fix it. And yep never opened it as I put some tell tails in place. Of course they denied it and it is impossible to sue for small amounts in the uk.
Wow that sucks Steve.
Duke Nukem a classic and I agree does kind of resemble the rpg. I take it that's some sort of ambient lighting unit with a flash unit built in, very expensive I'm sure. Circuitry can be repaired but Halogen bulbs are scarce since they've been banned which is a shame they always gave the best results.
Specialised halogens are still available, one for this looks to be £11 (quick search only, didn't match model numbers or specs)
Domestically you're probably only going to find an oven lamp - fortunately they realised that plastic LEDs wouldn't be particularly effective at 240°C...
@@georgeprout42 I like halogen bulbs, its instant glaring light, LED like soppy Walter from Beno comic ... nope and nope!! I put in a 100watt bulb and omg, the dust buddies ffs, LED is like a pathetic candle.
@@jonathaningram4672 I stockpiled when the original tungsten ban was coming up. I have a mixture of good old fashioned 60W lamps, tungsten and LEDs. Each definitely has its place, one size doesn't fit all. I did get rid of the fluorescent tubes we inherited when we bought the place though!
Since the resistor you removed did read correctly when you tested it later, what was the actual cause. Was it a mere cold solder joint...? Either way nice fix...
Thanks 👍It was the end of the resistor that was soldered to the board had broken away from the actual resistor. When I heated the it with the iron the opposite side just came away and I showed the resistor with the silver bit missing from the back of it.
RPG???
BFG!! Big F-in Gun!!! haha
Indeed 😂😂😂Although that was doom and it looks different to this one 😉
Is the description of the triac "zero crossing dimmer" action correct? I thought that once a triac is triggered on, it stays on until the current through it drops below a given threshold. That is you can't trigger them off as the diagram shows.
Zero crossing switching of a triac implies that you can only have off (no trigger), 50% (triggered only for one half of the cycle, some equipment might not like this) and 100% (triggered for both halves of the cycle). The only way to have variable or other levels is by triggering the triac on some period of time after the zero crossing point. This makes nonsense of the expression "zero crossing dimmer".
Yes, you are correct Alan. A triac will only turn off when the supply gets to 0v. The brightness is controlled by the microcontroller timing the previous zero crossing and turning the triac on between 0.xx ms (full brightness) and up to 9.xxms (lowest brightness) after the zero crossing is detected. The xx denoting a period of time after the zero crossing to be outside the dead zone of the triac.
Alan, you can skip cycles , e.g. trigger every third at zero crossing would give you 30%. Since the load is resistive and has thermal inertia it still would not be flickering.