I can think of a few others in this cantelevered style that you failed to mention. The Kingroon KP3S has a basic version that is similarly priced to the Crux 1. They also have a Pro version and a Pro S1 version which has a slightly larger build area of 200mm. Then there is the most expensive one I have ever seen, even above the Prusa Mini which is the Ratrig V Minion though this one is definitely not for beginners and only comes in kit form or you source the parts youself. It is around $600 to $700 depending on if you print the 3D printed parts required yourself or buy them.
Excellent, I think this one is it for beginners that don't want to put a lot of money on the table but you get direct drive and metal xy and table rollers. Leveling with a piece of paper is not that hard. Despite 18cm size, you can always print large objects in two parts and glue them together anyway. I am curious of the max speed it claims at 150mm/s, but at 100mm/s it is respectable.
I recently bought one as my first printer. Too soon to say, but so far it's frustrating. I too had to shift the build plate over, and for some reason I cannot get my prints to start in the center, regardless of where I place it in the slicing software. I'm also having issues getting my prints to stick to the build plate for some reason. The manual they provide is worthless, and their tech support is completely unresponsive. Not a fan so far, but I am also very new to this. Probably something stupid on my end.
When you can get something like the Sovol SV06 for just 60 bucks more with feature parity to a Prusa Mk3s, I dont think I could recommend this printer. A big part of why is well, firstly, tronxy has a pretty bad reputation, but secondly, it lacks auto bed levelling. I wouldn't recommend any printer without auto bed levelling to anyone I actually liked. Also, is it just me or is this printers hotend very clearly crooked? At 6:01, this isnt Adams fault, its the printers, but what absolutely awful ringing. Why is it ringing so much on a printer thats supposed to have a better kinematics system that isnt even printing quickly?
@@randywatson8347 Not unless you are including the 99 dollar deal that's only in a regional store brand in parts of the US and not shippable elsewhere.
Dichromatic filament is a relatively new material, it is a type of 3D printing filament that utilizes the properties of structural coloration to change color depending on the angle of incidence of light. Structural coloration refers to the phenomenon in which an object appears to be a certain color due to the physical structure of the object, rather than due to pigments or dyes. This is in contrast to pigmentation, in which an object appears a certain color due to the chemical composition of the object's surface. Structural coloration can occur in a variety of ways, such as through the diffraction of light by small structures, interference of light by thin films, or scattering of light by rough surfaces. Some examples of structural coloration in nature include the iridescent feathers of birds, the wings of butterflies, and the shells of certain types of beetles. In the context of 3D printing, structural coloration is used to create interesting visual effects through the manipulation of the physical structure of the filament. Dichromatic filament is one such example, which achieve color change by reflecting different wavelengths of light depending on the angle at which they are viewed. Also, structural coloration can be used in various fields such as textiles, packaging, automotive, aerospace, and many others.
I have 3 Crux 1 printers… All they ran Great !!!
12:40 if you click on the number and not the arrow, it will heat up to 200 degrees
I can think of a few others in this cantelevered style that you failed to mention. The Kingroon KP3S has a basic version that is similarly priced to the Crux 1. They also have a Pro version and a Pro S1 version which has a slightly larger build area of 200mm. Then there is the most expensive one I have ever seen, even above the Prusa Mini which is the Ratrig V Minion though this one is definitely not for beginners and only comes in kit form or you source the parts youself. It is around $600 to $700 depending on if you print the 3D printed parts required yourself or buy them.
Excellent, I think this one is it for beginners that don't want to put a lot of money on the table but you get direct drive and metal xy and table rollers. Leveling with a piece of paper is not that hard. Despite 18cm size, you can always print large objects in two parts and glue them together anyway. I am curious of the max speed it claims at 150mm/s, but at 100mm/s it is respectable.
Another option is the kingroon kp3s
Can you give us some tips for optimizing this printer in Cura or maybe a Cura profile?
Definetly do a tutorial for when you get all the cura stuff right
Awesome Video, Awesome Info
what is the best 3d printer for TPU/FPV prints? I value a smaller printer rather than a massive 1L print volume and 1m/s print speeds
I recently bought one as my first printer. Too soon to say, but so far it's frustrating. I too had to shift the build plate over, and for some reason I cannot get my prints to start in the center, regardless of where I place it in the slicing software. I'm also having issues getting my prints to stick to the build plate for some reason. The manual they provide is worthless, and their tech support is completely unresponsive. Not a fan so far, but I am also very new to this. Probably something stupid on my end.
LOL!!!! Love the naming comment you made....
When you can get something like the Sovol SV06 for just 60 bucks more with feature parity to a Prusa Mk3s, I dont think I could recommend this printer. A big part of why is well, firstly, tronxy has a pretty bad reputation, but secondly, it lacks auto bed levelling. I wouldn't recommend any printer without auto bed levelling to anyone I actually liked.
Also, is it just me or is this printers hotend very clearly crooked?
At 6:01, this isnt Adams fault, its the printers, but what absolutely awful ringing. Why is it ringing so much on a printer thats supposed to have a better kinematics system that isnt even printing quickly?
SV06 costs 50% more.
@@randywatson8347 Not unless you are including the 99 dollar deal that's only in a regional store brand in parts of the US and not shippable elsewhere.
Why not compare it with the Kingroon KP3S 🤔 ?
I didn't know about the Kingroon KP3S.
@@RCwithAdam1 😳
Take a look at the Kingroon KP3S series instead of this.
At 3:21, what filament is that?
Dichromatic filament is a relatively new material, it is a type of 3D printing filament that utilizes the properties of structural coloration to change color depending on the angle of incidence of light.
Structural coloration refers to the phenomenon in which an object appears to be a certain color due to the physical structure of the object, rather than due to pigments or dyes. This is in contrast to pigmentation, in which an object appears a certain color due to the chemical composition of the object's surface.
Structural coloration can occur in a variety of ways, such as through the diffraction of light by small structures, interference of light by thin films, or scattering of light by rough surfaces. Some examples of structural coloration in nature include the iridescent feathers of birds, the wings of butterflies, and the shells of certain types of beetles.
In the context of 3D printing, structural coloration is used to create interesting visual effects through the manipulation of the physical structure of the filament. Dichromatic filament is one such example, which achieve color change by reflecting different wavelengths of light depending on the angle at which they are viewed. Also, structural coloration can be used in various fields such as textiles, packaging, automotive, aerospace, and many others.