You guys are awesome. Your attention to detail and the way you work together is just top notch. Most people do not realize the level of thought as well as elbow grease that goes into a quality wood floor. Your client is very lucky to have you guys.
I'm doing 1"x12"x16' t&g pine over 3/4 osb subfloor above crawlspace (1st) floor in so california...would you still glue and staple or vapor barrier and staple instead?....great video and work
Awesome work and attention to detail. I wonder though, wouldn't it have been better to find an engineered wood of the same color to help with the inevitable cupping that will happen? I know you used glue and cut curfs into it. But will that still be uncupped 20 years from now? Or maybe it's a matter of climate zone. This floor in a dry climate like ND will never see the humidity needed to make wood change shape
that was put down was glue assist you can finish that and refinish it as many times as you want and it’s definitely more durable than engineered especially the way they put it on engineer is Junk and you can always tell 90% of time Unless it’s from Vermont or Carlisle at that point it cost over $12 a foot so it doesn’t make sense
It's a good thing they were glued as well. We all know how difficult it is to keep floorboards from just floating away in these low gravity situations. Mere nails all along the edge (including those all important 4 or 5 he does at the ends of the boards) just never seem to be enough, do they? Never mind that historically, these were installed with square cut nails plainly visible at intervals.
It’s to stop the boards from cupping. those old floors constantly had nails coming up and tearing up somebody’s foot. You had to go around and nail down all the nails popping up once or twice a year every year. People don’t like to do that nowadays if they don’t have to. Kinda like using a conestoga wagon to move to Oregon. We have better ways now which are more efficient and more effective.
You guys are awesome. Your attention to detail and the way you work together is just top notch. Most people do not realize the level of thought as well as elbow grease that goes into a quality wood floor. Your client is very lucky to have you guys.
Love the sawing, routing, and sanding with the glasses on the hat and the earplugs draped around the neck!
Proof that it's not necessary!
Wow this was great to watch. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you! Learned so much from watching this video.
Love that wedge trick.
I use wedges all the time for different applications (we're remodeling old farm buildings).
Beautiful.
I'm doing 1"x12"x16' t&g pine over 3/4 osb subfloor above crawlspace (1st) floor in so california...would you still glue and staple or vapor barrier and staple instead?....great video and work
I wish I had watched this prior to installing my pine flooring! It would have been somewhat easier.
Does this wood darken over time ? as so many woods do.
Are there wood species that do not darken? or do they all do, more or less ?
Nice job! What router bit types did you use for both the tongue and groove portions? Both cut using the router by hand, not table? Thank you.
I love it 💕💕💕💕💕
Where did you go to purchase this flooring?
Looks good
Awesome work and attention to detail. I wonder though, wouldn't it have been better to find an engineered wood of the same color to help with the inevitable cupping that will happen? I know you used glue and cut curfs into it. But will that still be uncupped 20 years from now? Or maybe it's a matter of climate zone. This floor in a dry climate like ND will never see the humidity needed to make wood change shape
that was put down was glue assist
you can finish that and refinish it as many times as you want and it’s definitely more durable than engineered especially the way they put it on engineer is Junk and you can always tell 90% of time
Unless it’s from Vermont or Carlisle at that point it cost over $12 a foot so it doesn’t make sense
I see some people using a vapor barrier. Is that only needed on the ground level?
Neat trick with the wedge. Router bit size and plank size?
I’m guessing the glue was to combat any cupping? I saw the curf cuts on the back, as well. Makes sense, if so.
Good catch. Yes, the kerf cuts on the back are to prevent cupping, as is the glue during installation.
Better to trowel entire sub instead of spots
Who makes the palm belt sander
that’s a lot of pine.
is that white pine
It's a good thing they were glued as well. We all know how difficult it is to keep floorboards from just floating away in these low gravity situations. Mere nails all along the edge (including those all important 4 or 5 he does at the ends of the boards) just never seem to be enough, do they? Never mind that historically, these were installed with square cut nails plainly visible at intervals.
Face screwed would have been a good look too
I get your point (sarcasm and all) However, those are some extra wide boards. Might be why they used glue.
It’s to stop the boards from cupping. those old floors constantly had nails coming up and tearing up somebody’s foot. You had to go around and nail down all the nails popping up once or twice a year every year. People don’t like to do that nowadays if they don’t have to. Kinda like using a conestoga wagon to move to Oregon. We have better ways now which are more efficient and more effective.
Круто
How much was each piece of wood?
The price for this flooring is approximately $5 per square foot. Price varies with the grade and the width.
What grade is that it looks like it’s select grade I know pine uses a tongue grading system where did you purchase it I’m in Pittsburgh
If only my subfloor was level. Lol.
OMG, how not to do a floor.
Glue on OSB huh.....geez
What's your contention, this is totally adequate.
Yeah I was thinking of doing this but bruce what’s the downside? Just curious if there is a better method before I do it myself.
No problem OSB under of roof it’s junk if you use it outside as long as it’s dry it’s perfectly fine